Category: Watch Reviews

Watches can come in a wonderful kaleidoscope of different colors. Picture this: an endless sea of magnificent blues, intense reds, vibrant greens, brilliant yellows, and more. However, for those interested in stepping away from these colors and choosing a warmer, earthy hue, brown is the name of the game. 

Brown is the color of chocolate and coffee, a match truly made in heaven. Imagine the enticing smell of freshly baked, gooey chocolate chip cookies from the oven with a steaming cup of espresso. Dream about fluffy cinnamon buns, or experience the rugged, earthy smells of the wooded forest. 

Brown watches are not really the first thing that comes to mind when picking out another watch to add to the collection. You can never go wrong with a classic black or blue dial. However, brown watches are on the rise, and it’s becoming increasingly common to see brands offering their pieces with sun-kissed brown dials. Pour yourself a cup of your favorite hot chocolate as we learn more about brown dial watches and the joy they can bring.

About Brown Dial Watches

The history of brown dial watches starts way back with vintage sports watches. Think of beloved brands like Rolex and Omega. As the years passed and watches were exposed to sunlight, the dials started discoloring. The chemical reaction between the sunlight and dial eventually resulted in what we call a “tropical dial.”

Presumably named for the tropics, where sunlight is abundant, these chocolate-colored dials are now highly prized by enthusiasts and collectors alike. The attractive patina on the watch greatly increases its value and adds a sprinkle of uniqueness. 

Many watches nowadays will try to evoke memories of these charming timepieces with carefully painted dials and vintage-inspired looks. Indeed, brown dials are becoming more and more desirable, as we will see with the luxurious list of offerings that we will see below! 

Should You Buy a Brown Dial Watch?

Brown dial watches will always have a special place in the collection, so the answer is yes, most definitely! Brown is a great contrast to the usual black and blues in the watch box. This color will be a surefire match for anyone looking to add a bit of excitement to their watch rotation. 

Brown is subtle enough to match almost any outfit and bold enough to generate some interest. Whether in a formal office setting or taking a dip by the pool, brown dials just work. Of course, brown is at home when the world is transitioning into autumn.

Brown just seems to fit in when everyone is scrambling to find the perfect Halloween costume, sipping on pumpkin spice lattes, and watching the leaves change color. This versatile color can accompany you in any situation. Luckily, we’ve assembled a sublime list to help you choose your next brown dial watch.

The Best Brown Dial Watches

Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B146)

Vacheron Constantin is one of the most premium watchmakers on the planet. Their very name drips with grace and exclusivity. Being able to hold and handle one of these astounding timepieces is a privilege and experience. Vacheron Constantin brought the Overseas collection back in 2016, and every year they have added more and more amazing watches to it.

The Overseas models are designed to be the perfect daily companion. One of the most convenient features of this watch is the interchangeable bracelet and strap system. This innovation makes it extremely easy to customize the look and feel of the watch. The layout is immaculate and features an ever-useful date window at the 3 o’clock position.

Every feature of this watch is finished with extreme attention to detail. The hour markers shine like mirrors and are razor cut to perfection. Turning over the Overseas immediately reveals the golden rotor, with sharp points radiating from the middle like sun rays. Behind the rotor is the in-house caliber 5100, beating away at 28,800vph and offering 60 hours of power reserve. 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R

First came Vacheron Constantin, and now comes Patek Philippe. Together, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin form the “Big Three” or “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking. These heavyweights represent the absolute best that watchmaking has to offer. They are the quintessential watchmakers that every brand should look to for inspiration.

This brown Aquanaut is just one of the many luxurious timepieces that come from these brands. The unique rounded octagon shape caused a huge stir in the watch world when it was released, and it still leaves current admirers breathless. Golden, applied hour markers dot the edge of the watch, and a mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand makes its rotation around the watch.

The Aquanaut series bracelet can be swapped for numerous attractive options as well. Underneath the dial exposes the self-winding caliber 26‑330 S C, a true marvel in design and function. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01)

The last of the “Big Three,” Audemars Piguet, lives up to its name with this offering from the popular Royal Oak collection. The 1972 release of the first watches in this collection changed how modern watches would be designed. They were sleek, exciting, and an absolute sensation. This Royal Oak has many of the features that buyers have come to expect: incredible quality, luxury status, and otherworldly levels of detail. 

This is undoubtedly a large 42mm watch with large pushers and a unique case shape. The signature octagonal bezel is lined with perfectly placed screws, creating a very pleasing continuity. This particular model comes on a gorgeous alligator strap that matches the deep brown of the dial.

Audemars Piguet describes the dial as “Mega Tapisserie,” with a waffle pattern that’s as delicious as it looks. Underneath this sweet treat is the caliber 3126/3840 self-winding movement, with 50 hours of power reserve. 

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (ref. 215.62.40.20.13.001)

The first of 3 Omega watches on this list is the 39.55mm Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean in a velvety hazel color. The Planet Ocean series represents Omega’s unique history with ocean-inspired watches. 

Every element of this watch blends together in a wonderful harmony. The hazel dial is a backdrop for the golden hands and white hour markers. The equally dark bezel contrasts with the gold lettering and pushers. Even the ceramic case is brown. This watch is simply a masterclass in pleasing design elements. 

Omega’s famed co-axial escapement makes its appearance in this watch as well. With this innovation, mechanical accuracy is increased even further. The Omega caliber 8800 automatic movement powers this chocolate delight. Resistant to magnetism, finished expertly, and a certified chronometer; this movement can do it all. 

Grand Seiko SBGR311

Grand Seiko is the Japanese answer to the luxury Swiss watchmaking industry. Since its inception, Grand Seiko has made revolutionary strides in watchmaking, such as with the invention of the spring drive movement. Known for absolutely breathtaking designs, Grand Seiko has created one of its most amazing pieces yet with the SBGR311. 

What immediately catches the eye is the swirling explosion of shapes on the dial. Every single shape is detailed with small lettering inside. This whirlpool of chocolate is simply hypnotic to look at. I could get lost in the dial and feel an inexplicable urge to satisfy my sweet tooth. 

Inside this delicious morsel is the caliber 9S65 automatic movement, which is lightweight and extremely accurate. Zaratsu polishing makes every aspect of this watch shine with a mirror finish. A sapphire caseback shows both the movement and the Grand Seiko lion logo, roaring with life. This watch is simply divine.

Rolex Day-Date 40 Chocolate Dial (ref. 228235)

To many people, Rolex will always be the ultimate luxury brand. Rolex is always in huge demand, and any new release by them is immediately snatched up by the hungry masses. This attractive colorway of the famous Day-Date model instantly demands attention with its absolutely beautiful and warm hues. 

The exclusive Rolex Everose case glows in the light and perfectly contrasts the rich dial. The fluted bezel is a signature Rolex detail, as is the cyclops magnifier at the 3 o’clock position. At 40mm, this watch is larger than more traditional Day-Date models, but nearly any wrist can accommodate this piece. And with the extraordinary “President” bracelet wrapped around the wrist, any lucky wearer will find themselves with a truly magnificent watch. 

Glashütte Original Sixties Brown (ref. 39-52-10-02-01)

One look at this German watch makes you want to steal another look. You’ll get lost in the unique and elaborate imprinted dial and want more. Glashütte Original will be able to satisfy your desire for more with a watch that pays tribute to the 1960s. The soft, rounded case is extremely comfortable to wear. The 39mm case is reserved and appropriate for any wrist.

Inside the polished steel case is the caliber 39-52. The numbers on the dial look like carefully etched Arabic numerals, something not seen in other watches. This watch is strictly time-only, with no other complication in sight. The symmetry and visual appeal are unmatched with Glashütte Original’s stunning timepiece. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition (ref. 5052 1146 E52A)

Blancpain is the oldest watch brand that still exists to this day. Throughout the centuries, Blancpain has perfected the art of watchmaking and truly takes it to another level. The Fifty Fathoms line is Blancpain’s signature dive watch collection, started in the golden age of diving and marine exploration in the early 1950s. 

This limited edition model in the Fifty Fathoms line is fascinating and complicated. The desert colorway is light and attractive. The dial gleams in the light and sweeps away like sand in the wind. A khaki-colored strap matches the sandy dial. A 43mm case houses the caliber 1315DD, with an enormous 120 power reserve. With so much power on the wrist, this watch is as hardy as the desert sun. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385

Zenith reaches its highest point with the Chronomaster Revival A385. This model breathes life into classic models of Zenith’s past. As a modern interpretation of the original A385 from 1969, this revival has much to live up to. With numerous modern upgrades, like the ladder-style bracelet and refined movement, this watch takes the old and catapults it into the future.

Zenith is known for making avant-garde movements and housed inside the chunky 37mm tonneau-shaped case is the legendary El Primero automatic movement. Zenith prominently displays the movement’s specifications on its website, and for good reason. This movement is revered in the watchmaking industry for its gorgeous finishing, unrivaled accuracy, and innovative design. The movement works at 36,000vph and offers a 50-hour power reserve. 

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Brown Dial (ref. 311.32.42.30.13.001)

The Moonwatch is one of the most beloved in the watch industry. Its story has been told countless times and will forever be tied to Omega’s legendary association with space and the galaxy. An Omega Speedmaster can truly do it all and is a serious contender for a one-watch-only collection. 

The famous Speedmaster DNA that everyone is familiar with is in this brown dial version. The symmetrical dial, lume pips at 12 o’clock, tachymeter scale, and large pushers are all here. A matching brown leather strap comes with this watch, but Speedmasters are well-known for being able to look good on almost anything.

At 42mm, the watch is large but sits very comfortably on the wrist thanks to the watch’s soft contours. Like other iconic Speedmasters, the famous Omega caliber 1863 powers this watch. It is visible behind the transparent sapphire caseback. 

Oris Aquis Date Brown Dial (ref. 01 733 7730 4152-07 5 24 12EB)

As one of the few privately owned watch companies, Oris maintains a unique position in the market. Instead of answering to a larger authority regarding their designs and decision-making, they answer solely to themselves. The Aquis is a series of no-nonsense dive watches that offer impeccable performance and brilliant design. 

This mono-brown variant of these serious divers is large, bold, and entirely functional. Generous lume, the large 43.5mm case size, and the long stick hour markers make viewing this watch under the water a breeze. The rotating dive bezel is crisp, satisfying, and locks into place. A gorgeous chocolate-colored strap matches the mono-brown dial. Finally, the Oris 733 automatic movement is found in this beauty and many other watches in Oris’s lineup. 

Longines Legend Diver (ref. L3.774.4.60.2)

Relive an era of legendary watchmaking with this heritage dive watch from the esteemed brand Longines. The extremely famous Longines logo, a winged hourglass, is stamped at the top of this Legend Diver. Any timepiece with the winged hourglass symbol is worthy of inclusion in the Longines lineup.

The Legend Diver is ruggedly handsome and retains the original super compressor design. This is evident by the two prominent pushers on the side of the case, which control the inner rotating bezel. This mechanism also increases the water resistance of this dive watch.

This is an exciting feature that sets this watch apart from others. This big, 42mm daring watch is powered by the Longines exclusive L888 automatic movement. A large 72-hour power reserve means this diving legend will be running for long periods. 

Seiko Presage SRPF43

I stick by the adage that every collection needs a Seiko. Seiko has such a huge variety of pieces in its collection that it’s hard to find something that someone won’t like. The Presage line from Seiko combines Japanese artistry and cutting-edge mechanical capabilities. This model is one of the many “Cocktail Time” watches, taking inspiration from various drinks in Japan. These affordable, classy dress watches are undoubtedly worth taking a closer look.

This dial is actually inspired by a specially roasted tea named Hojicha. Compared to other teas, this tea produces a light golden color when roasted. This is reflected on the dressy dial, which is a rich brown and yellow gradient. This 38.5mm watch is handsome enough to fit any casual or formal situation. On the caseback is an engraving with the serial number of this limited edition collection.

The entry-level Seiko 4R35 automatic movement powers the watch, generating 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound or “roasted.” Indeed, looking at the toasty brown dial, I can only think of wanting to take a sip! 

Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition (ref. 128669)

Montblanc has made quite a name for itself in recent years. The renowned pen company has taken serious steps to make it a contender in the often cutthroat luxury watch market. Montblanc’s integration with Minerva, a highly respected watch movement manufacturer, cemented Montblanc’s future as a brand that makes more than just pens.

This stunning perpetual calendar is one of the best examples of this new direction. This limited edition version of the Heritage Perpetual Calendar could easily be double its asking price. Perpetual calendars are the pinnacle of fine watchmaking, requiring immense care and careful attention to detail to assemble.

This heritage model echoes earlier Minerva model watches. This elegant, 40mm perpetual calendar features a gorgeous caramel-colored dial and displays an encyclopedia of knowledge on its many subdials. Housed inside the 18K pink gold case is the caliber MB 29.22, beating away at 28.800vph and offering a 48-hour power reserve.

This dedicated perpetual calendar module can be viewed through the sapphire caseback, treating the eyes with a beautifully applied Côtes de Genève pattern. The snow-capped Mont Blanc mountain is displayed proudly at the top of the watch, a sign of Montblanc’s dedication to quality. 

H. Moser & Cie Venturer Big Date (ref. 2100-0402)

Exclusivity is the name of the game for H. Moser & Cie. Produced in very limited quantities, each mechanical marvel from the workshops of H. Moser & Cie is lovingly handcrafted and painstakingly examined for quality. This Venturer model is a 50-piece limited edition production from a brand that already makes very few watches a year anyway, which gives away just how special this watch is. 

This timepiece is an appropriate 41.5mm in case size, and it seems even bigger with the watch’s design choices. The elegant H. Moser & Cie logo is spelled out in cursive at the top of the dial, but the most exciting elements of the watch are the big date window and the large cutout for the seconds at the 6 o’clock position. 

These huge features make the watch extremely bold to look at and highly legible. Flipping the piece on its back reveals a stunning manual-winding movement from H. Moser & Cie, with an enormous 7-day power reserve and small power reserve complication. 

Omega Constellation Brown Dial (ref. 123.10.38.21.10.001)

Of the many offerings in the vast Omega catalog, the Constellation series is among the most beautiful. The Constellation series gets its name from the gorgeous, deep engraving of an observatory on the caseback viewing the stars. This almost romantic imagery invokes a sense of wonder and discovery.

Indeed, this copper-brown Omega Constellation is a wonder to behold. The sharply finished hour markers and hands reflect like the stars in the night sky. At the 6 o’clock position is a silver star that provides a wonderful point of dial symmetry. 

The 38mm watch wears small due to its case shape and perfectly slips under any cuff. The craftsmanship is top-notch, and this dressy piece, in particular, is on an adjustable steel bracelet. Instead of the classic observatory engraving on the back, a sapphire crystal caseback shows off the Omega Co-Axial caliber 8500 in all of its glory. 

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4356-07 5 20 45)

The Divers Sixty-Five line is like taking a time machine back to the retro days of Beatlemania and bell-bottom jeans. This watch takes various elements of vintage styles from this era and blends them together like a smoothie. The burnt orange and brown dial is reminiscent of a swirling cup of coffee.

Attractive round hour markers dot the outer edges of the dial. The 40mm dial is larger than you might find in a vintage diver, but this modern fit looks great on any wrist. The Divers Sixty-Five is slim thanks to its wonderful tapering and doesn’t sit tall on the wrist.

At the heart of this vintage blend is the Oris 733 movement, based on the workhorse Sellita SW200-1. Finally, with 100 meters of water resistance, this watch will be more than capable of surviving nearly any aquatic situation.  

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 38 (ref. U4131012/Q600-725P) 

Breitling is known for being big and bold, but this Transocean Chronograph shows that Breitling can tap into its reserved side and offer something truly special. The Transocean series was recently revived by Breitling and is now one of their premier watch lines.

The name takes its inspiration from the golden days of aviation when advancements in aviation technology made flying across the ocean possible. It’s easy to see the pilot influences on this watch. The watch is very functional, with a chronograph, tachymeter, and a host of other features that appeal to the pilot in all of us.

The 38mm case size seems conservative for Breitling’s standards, but this makes it that much easier to wear on the wrist. It sits tall and demands presence. The pleasing golden bezel contrasts the dark brown dial and leather strap. The Transocean is back and better than ever, it seems.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto (ref. H38735501)

Hamilton, the Swiss brand that combines masculine, All-American designs with precision Swiss engineering, offers this mesmerizing timepiece from their American Classic collection. The smoky brown dial of this vintage-inspired watch brings to mind an old-world type of cool. The radiant dial smoothly transitions to a light brown in the center.

Simple stick hour markers and hands clearly display the time. The date complication has its own golden window at the 6 o’clock position, giving some visual interest to the piece. Despite the vintage inspirations, this is definitely a modern timepiece. The sizable 42mm case size makes it stand out on the wrist. The lug width is also quite wide, at 22mm.

The movement is also created to modern standards. The powerful ETA 2892-A2 beats away inside the case and offers a respectable 42 hours of power reserve. Hamilton’s history is as rich as the smoky chocolate dial on this watch’s blend of vintage and modern. 

Farer Eldridge Chronograph

Among the titans in watchmaking on this list, like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe, it would be hard for a newer brand like Farer to stand out. Founded in 2015, Farer is the newest watch brand on the list. This means they are up against stiff competition with much richer and more celebrated stories than them.

However, Farer’s Eldridge Chronograph can certainly appeal to many people with its bold flashes of color and symmetrical design. Farer forgoes many traditional watchmaking designs and creates its own unique pieces. Browsing their catalog reveals unique tropical colors, chunky hour markers, fun designs, and more.

This 39mm Eldridge Chronograph combines chocolate brown and turquoise blue. The blue chronograph hand is a stark contrast to the brown dial. Inside the watch is the reliable ETA 2894-2 movement, a sign of quality and care. 

One of the most delightful features of this design is the expertly placed date window. Rather than sacrifice symmetry by setting the date window at somewhere like the 3 o’clock position, it is at the 6 o’clock position instead. This small but appreciated change is just one of many details on this fine watch. 

Conclusion

Brown dial watches are certainly an interesting piece to add to the collection. The roasted coffee color is warm and inviting. They add an element of interest to a collection and will stand out on any wrist. Even the most exclusive brands are starting to see why brown is the color that is trending at the moment. Admire the wonderful pieces we have assembled for you today, and grab a bite of chocolate as well! 

 

A dress watch is an essential piece of any gentleman’s wardrobe, adding a touch of sophistication and elegance to any formal or semi-formal outfit. However, finding a high-quality dress watch that doesn’t break the bank can be a daunting task. 

Fortunately, many excellent dress watches are available for under $5,000 and offer a perfect combination of style, craftsmanship, and affordability. In this article, we will highlight these timepieces’ unique features, performance, and value for money at various budget levels within the price cap. 

Whether you’re looking for a classic timepiece for a wedding, important business meetings, or a fancy gala, we’ve got you covered. So, let’s take a closer look at some of the best dress watches on the market today for the money. 

What Is a Dress Watch?

A dress watch is a type of wristwatch designed to be worn on formal or semi-formal occasions. It is characterized by its elegant and understated design, intended to complement a gentleman’s outfit without overpowering it.

Typically, dress watches feature a thin, streamlined case, a simple, uncluttered dial, and a leather strap or metal bracelet. Those more adventurous might pair a suit with a dive watch and its colorful rubber strap and tie it in with the color of their pocket square. However, keeping it traditional might be the safer option for truly formal situations.

What to Look For in Dress Watches Under $5000?

1. Case Material and Size: The case material and size are important factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch. Stainless steel and gold are common materials for dress watches, but you may also find watches made of titanium or other metals. The case size is also important, as it can impact the watch’s overall look and feel. A smaller case size can look more traditional and elegant, while a larger one can provide a more modern and bolder look.
2. Strap Option: The type of strap you choose can also impact the overall look and feel of the dress watch. Leather straps are a classic option that can give a dressy and sophisticated look, while metal bracelets can provide a more refined and luxurious feel.
3. Movement and Complications: As we noted above, mechanical movements can offer a more traditional and luxurious feel. Complications, such as moon phases, chronographs, or date displays, can add functionality and visual interest to the watch.
4. Brand and Design: The brand and design of the dress watch can also be an important factor to consider. Look for reputable brands that have a strong history of producing high-quality watches. Choose a design that reflects your personal style and complements your wardrobe.
5. Value for Money: Finally, consider the value for money when purchasing a dress watch. Look for a timepiece that offers a good balance between price, quality, and style. Consider buying from a reputable retailer and look for watches with a warranty to ensure you get a quality product.

The Best Dress Watches Under $5000

1. GRAND SEIKO SBGW231G

Grand Seiko delivers an instant classic. The stainless steel case of this timepiece features a mirrored finish. Achieving this exquisite look across the entire case required detailed, expert artisan polishing work. Everything about this watch has been carefully handcrafted, and every detail is in-house, down to the lubricant used for the internal mechanisms. 

Grand Seiko described the dial color as autumn light. To my eye, it’s reminiscent of a vintage ivory piano key. The hands and indexes are diamond cut and therefore reflect the light from every angle. The dial features a minimalist design with three hands and no date. The case measures 37.3mm and sits at 11.6mm on the wrist.

The case back is open, showcasing their in-house caliber 9S64 movement with its 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is paired with a black crocodile leather strap that is remarkably supple, feeling as if it’s already been broken in. This timepiece is an excellent choice for both men and women. 

Price: $4,300

2. CARTIER TANK MUST LARGE MODEL CRWSTA0041

If you’re looking for that Cartier Tank Louise look at a reasonable price, this timepiece is it. The watch features Cartier’s traditional rectangular case in stainless steel. It measures 33.7mm x 25.5mm and sits at 6.60mm on the wrist. 

It’s a simple, clean silver dial with black Roman numerals, offset by sharp blue sword hands and a blue crown. It’s powered by a high-autonomy quartz movement, which provides a huge battery life of up to eight years. All of this is paired with a grained black calfskin strap and steel Ardillon buckle.

Some have noted that the strap on this watch is small, even for a modest man’s sized wrist. This type of watch was first introduced in the ‘70s to counter the Japanese quartz craze that put many traditional Swiss timepiece manufacturers out of business.

The silverling from that period was a new market of fine-looking watches, sans the complex in-house mechanical movements and delivered to the public at a much lower price point. This watch continues in that tradition. As previously addressed in this article, while most will select a dress watch with a mechanical movement, this is an excellent example of a watch that runs counter to that rule. 

Price: $2,930

3.  IWC PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC IW356501

There’s just something lovely about this dress watch. While it’s sized for men, some women are wearing larger watches these days, and it could therefore be untraditionally unisex. The stainless steel case has a mirrored finish. The case is sized at 40mm and sits low on the wrist at 9.2mm.

This is a classic three-hand watch with silver hands and raised roman numerals. The timepiece is paired nicely with a black alligator leather strap, although IWC offers many different strap colors and options for this model. It features an automatic caliber 35111 movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. This watch is classic and sophisticated and would make a nice addition to any watch collection for those who still dress up regularly for work or special occasions. 

Price: $5,050

4. ZENITH ELITE CLASSIC 03.3100.670/02.C922

The dial of the Zenith Elite Classic is a beautiful blue sunray-patterned finish with a minimalist design. It’s encased in stainless steel and measures 40.5mm. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands. There is a small date window at the 3 o’clock position, adding to the functionality of the watch. 

The blue alligator leather strap is a nice touch of color. At the heart of the timepiece is the Elite 670 automatic movement, which is produced in-house by Zenith. This high-quality movement boasts a power reserve of up to 50 hours.

Price: $6,000

5. NOMOS ORION 38 387

The Nomos Orion 38 387 is a sophisticated and stylish dress watch that embodies the German brand’s commitment to minimalist design and impeccable craftsmanship. This timepiece features a round stainless steel case that measures 38mm in diameter and is only 7.9mm thick, making it an excellent choice for those who prefer a sleek and understated watch.

The white silver-plated dial of the Nomos Orion 38 387 is a marvel of simplicity, with only hour markers, slim baton hands, and a small second sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position. The gold markers are nicely accented by blue hands. 

Powering the Nomos Orion 38 is the in-house Alpha movement, which is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. This manual-winding movement features 17 jewels and a power reserve of up to 43 hours. 

Price: $2,260

6. TUDOR 1926 M91650-0005

Some think of Tudor as the baby brother of Rolex, but it’s really come into its own. The Tudor 1926 is perhaps their most underrated model. The design of the 1926 is classy and elegant with its opaline dial, subtle waffle pattern, and blue hour markers and hands. There’s a date display at the 3 o’clock position. 

It’s a 41mm stainless steel case that’s handsomely paired with a stainless steel seven-row, tapered bracelet. This allows the timepiece to straddle the line between a sports watch and a dress watch, though with its graceful design; I’d say it’s more on the dressy side of things. The timepiece is powered by a caliber T601 with a 38-hour power reserve. 

Price: $2,100

7. ORIS RECTANGULAR 01 561 7783 4063-07 5 19 16

The Oris Rectangular line of unisex watches is inspired by the Art Deco period of the 1920s and 1930s. They are designed to appeal to those who appreciate classic and timeless styles. This iteration features some new colors and size changes.

The watch is more dress casual to my eye but brings some casual Friday fun to the office or any situation with its numerous color and strap options. The green dial features numerals at 3, 9, and 12 with sword-shaped hands and a date window at 6 o’clock.

The stainless steel case measures 25.50 X 38.00mm. It’s paired with a dark green leather strap and stainless steel buckle. The timepiece is powered by the Oris 561, base ETA 2671 automatic movement.

Price: $1,950

8. SEIKO PRESAGE SHARP EDGED SERIES SPB165

The timepiece features a stainless steel case with a sharp, angular design that gives it a contemporary look. The case measures 39.3mm in diameter and 11mm in thickness, making it a relatively compact and wearable watch.

The dial of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 is white with a hemp leaf pattern. The hour, minute hand, and hour markers are silver. The second hand offers a pop of color in sharp blue. The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position and is framed with a polished metal border.

The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house 6R35 automatic movement, which features a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The movement can be seen through the exhibition case back.

The Seiko Presage Sharp Edged Series SPB165 has a stainless steel bracelet with a three-fold clasp with a push button release, providing a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet has a brushed finish that matches the case, and its links are designed to fit snugly against the wrist.

Price: $1,000

9. LONGINES FLAGSHIP HERITAGE L4.795.4.78.2

The Longines Flagship Heritage, with the silver-white dial, guilt hands, and markers, is a fine-looking timepiece. It features a small sub-second hand and date display, both at the 6 o’clock position. It’s clean, classy, and elegant. 

The stainless steel, polished case measures 38.5mm and is slim at 10.3mm thick. This watch is comfortable on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by the caliber L615 automatic with a 50-hour power reserve. 

The case back features an attractive gold sailing ship set against a dark blue background. All of this is handsomely paired with a dark brown calf leather strip. 

Price: $1,841

10. HAMILTON JAZZMASTER H32475730

The Hamilton Jazzmaster is a sophisticated and elegant men’s wristwatch designed to impress both watch enthusiasts and fashion-conscious individuals. It features a classic, timeless design that is sure to make a statement on any occasion.

The watch is powered by a reliable H-10 automatic, with a power reserve of up to 80 hours. The watch case is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm, making it a comfortable size for most men’s wrists. 

The watch’s dial is a deep, rich black color and is adorned with silver-tone hour markers and hands. It also features a date display window at the 6 o’clock position, which makes it a practical and useful timepiece for everyday wear.

The strap of the Hamilton Jazzmaster is made of high-quality black leather and features white contrast stitching, which gives the watch a sophisticated and refined look. The strap is also easily interchangeable, allowing you to customize the watch’s look to suit your personal style.

Price: $895

11. JUNGHANS MAX BILL AUTOMATIC 27/4700.02

The Junghans Max Bill is a stylish and minimalist men’s wristwatch inspired by the design philosophy of the renowned Swiss architect and artist Max Bill. The watch embodies his principles of simplicity, functionality, and timeless elegance.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 38mm and 10mm in height, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish paired with a high-quality gray leather strap.

The watch’s dial is simple and uncluttered, with a crisp white background and minimalist silver-tone hour markers and hands. The hour markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock feature a slightly raised dot, giving the dial a subtle depth and dimension. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position, which adds a practical touch to the watch.

The J800.1 automatic movement of the watch is reliable and precise. It has a power reserve of up to 38 hours. It’s a limited-edition timepiece with only 1,060 in circulation. 

Price: $1,350

12. LONGINES 1832 L4.826.4.52.0

The Longines 1832 is an elegant timepiece featuring a stainless steel case and a matt black dial with silver hands and hour markers. The case measures 40mm and sits at a respectable height of 12.3mm on the wrist. 

At the 6 o’clock position is a moon phase calendar with a gold moon and stars set against a dark, silky blue night sky. The watch is powered by a caliber L899 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve. The timepiece is completed by a black alligator leather strap. 

Price: $2,400

13. MIDO BARONCELLI HERITAGE M027.407.16.010.00

The Mido Baroncelli Heritage is a beautiful and cultured men’s wristwatch that showcases the Swiss brand’s expertise in combining timeless design with modern functionality. It is part of the Baroncelli Heritage collection, which pays homage to Mido’s classic and elegant watchmaking heritage.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm and is ultra-thin at 7.3mm, which is the perfect size for most men’s wrists. The case has a polished finish and is paired with a black leather strap.

The watch’s dial is a beautiful and clean white color, with a subtle, almost dimpled pattern, and is adorned with slim silver hour and minute hands, a sharp blue second hand, and black markers. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position. The caliber 1192 automatic movement features a reserve of up to 42 hours.

Price: $1,040

14. BAUME & MERCIER CLIFTON BAUMATIC MOA10518

The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic MOA10518 is an elegant and refined men’s wristwatch that represents the Swiss brand’s commitment to producing high-quality timepieces that are both beautiful and reliable. The watch is part of the Clifton Baumatic collection, which features watches powered by Baumatic movements, known for their precision and longevity.

The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 40mm and sits at the height of 11.3mm on the wrist. The polished case is paired with a black alligator leather strap, adding a touch of sophistication and luxury.

The watch’s dial is a porcelain-like white color and is adorned with slim silver hour, minute hands, and markers, with a dark gray second hand. There is also a small date display window at the 3 o’clock position.

The movement of the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic is a precise and reliable Swiss-made automatic movement. It has a power reserve of up to 120 hours. One of the most notable features of the watch is the sapphire crystal case back, which allows you to admire the movement and intricate details of the timepiece. 

Price: $3,250

15. TUTIMA SKY AUTOMATIC 6105-22

The Tutima Sky Automatic is a stylish and functional men’s timepiece. It is part of the Tutima Sky collection, which features watches inspired by the brand’s history of creating high-performance aviation watches for military and civilian pilots. The watch features a round stainless steel case with a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 13mm.

The case has a brushed finish and is paired with a Milanese bracelet. The watch’s dial is a beautiful blue dégrade color adorned with luminous hands and hour markers. There is also a small day and date display window at 3 o’clock. The movement of the Tutima Sky Automatic is a caliber 330, with a power reserve of up to 38 hours.

Price: $1,750

16. Tudor Ranger Automatic m79950-0001

With a robust functionality and a classy design, the Ranger keeps it simple, but the silver-tone stainless steel case can’t help but exude the timeless elegance Tudor is renowned for. The dial is a deep, transfixing black, and the thick, Arabic numerals shine bright, ensuring flawless legibility while maintaining a sharp demeanor. 

Powered by the Tudor Calibre MT4202, this automatic movement is equipped with a 70-hour power reserve that makes it reliable for extended wear. As you would expect from Tudor, this watch is very tough, feeling strong and sturdy on the wrist. It also comes equipped with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal to protect it from wear and tear, and the 100-meter water resistance will protect it from most waters that you would be wearing it around. 

Compared to other Tudors, the Ranger usually doesn’t stand out as it is often overshadowed by the Black Bay or the 1926. But, in my opinion, this watch does everything that well-known Tudor pieces are famous for, and its simplistic style will definitely appeal to those who are already familiar with Tudor’s catalog. 

The Tudor Ranger Automatic costs $3,575

Source: https://www.tudorwatch.com/en/watches/ranger/m79950-0001. 

PARTING THOUGHTS

Finding the right dress watch can be challenging, but we hope our list has made the process easier for you. Whether you prefer a classic and traditional style or a modern and bold look, there is a dress watch on this list that will suit your personal taste and budget. 

Keep in mind the key factors to consider when purchasing a dress watch, such as the case material and size, strap option, movement and complications, brand and design, and value for money. Remember, a quality dress watch is a timeless investment that will last for years and will always add a touch of elegance to any outfit. 

We at Exquisite Timepieces see hundreds of watches with exceptional dials each year. Even though we all have different preferences regarding the ones we most admire, an enamel dial is one feature that gets us hot under the collar. Created by skillful artisans, these dials feature a forgotten artistic technique that conjures mesmerizing images of serenity.

In contrast to industrially manufactured dials, enamel dials have a distinctive twist of elegance with an understated vibrant flair. They are also known to maintain their radiance forever, which heightens their aesthetic appeal.

Of all the decorative techniques bequeathed to watches (engravings, lacquering, etc.), the most laborious is enameling. Reserved for only the most exquisite metiers d’art pieces, each enamel dial is very time-consuming and can take several days to produce with a very high failure rate.

Claude-Eric, director of Donzé Cadrans, even told the New York Times that up to 75 percent of its enamel dials are abandoned due to defects. Despite the difficulties tied with the making of enamel dials, they are increasingly getting popular for all the right reasons.

Their complexity, captivating details, and magical decorations have revived an intense desire in the hearts of many collectors. From Jaquet Droz to anOrdain, read on to discover the most refined, desirable, and alluring enamel dials in the watch world.

About Enamel Dial Watches

The ancient technique of creating an enamel dial lies somewhere between art, science, and alchemy. Strongly associated with jewelry and gold since antiquity, the first records of enameling have been traced back to some Greek sculptures dated 600 – 501 BC. 

The technique of enameling itself was mastered only by a handful of craftsmen. This ancient skill has been passed down over the years from master to apprentice, and much of its apprehension remains with only a small group of artisans.

As with other special skills found in the horological world, a shroud of mystery surrounds the beginnings of the use of enamel dials in watches. However, the first instances date back to the 17th century with the advent of pocket watches.

The distinct aesthetic element of each enamel dial makes them popular among watch aficionados because each one cannot be replicated synthetically. Enameling involves the application of a fine coat of ground glass to the base of the dial (often a metal disc), which is then heated to ultra-high temperatures.

During firing, a fusion between the ground-up enamel and the metal base occurs, creating a mesmerizing dial with a radiant gleam. Given the allure and elegance of enamel worked dials, they have become exceedingly desirable by collectors, even on the secondary market.

Should You Buy an Enamel Dial Watch?

Enamel making is one of the most recognizable crafts in the world of Horology, and purchasing a timepiece with an enamel dial can never be a mistake. Given the seductiveness and profound value of these dials, it is not entirely surprising that watch enthusiasts have revived an ever-increasing interest in them.

One of the reasons why watches with enamel dials are so compelling is the fact that there are zero allowances for mistakes. That said, collectors with a knack for exceptional watches that bridge the gap between haute horology and art would find these timepieces particularly spellbinding.

Apart from displaying the time legibly, enamel dial watches provide a refined accent to formal dress styles. Whether they look better in a specific work environment is subjective, but they will certainly elevate your game anytime, any day.

Enameling Techniques

Grand Feu

Grand Feu means “great fire” in French. Probably the most commonly used technique in making enamel dials, the process involves coating a metal disc with enamel and firing it up at temperatures of 800°C – 900°C. The process is repeated severally to achieve the desired texture, color (usually white, beige, or opaque), and motif.

Guilloché and Flinqué Enamel

A “Guilloché” dial involves a decorative technique where straight, curved, or broken lines are engraved into a dial to create intricate patterns. Guilloché and flinqué enamel dials feature a transparent enamel that beautifully showcases the pattern below.

Champlevé Enamel

Camplevé enameling technique is an ancient art mostly used in gold smithery to decorate metal items. The word ‘Champlevé’ means “raised field”, and the process requires the joint effort of an expert engraver and enamel artist. Spaces or three-dimensional cells are carved into the surface of a metal disc. An enameller then fills the cavities with vitreous enamel and fires it briefly at several hundred degrees.

Cloisoné Enamel

Cloison means “partition” in French, so in the ”Cloisonné” method of enameling, partitions are created on the dial using a gold wire to place the enamel with utmost precision. The technique, usually used in gold jewelry, produces a polished surface with a smooth finish.

20 Best Enamel Dial Watches

Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel (Ref. 5177BB/2Y/9V6)

Inspired by the pocket watches from the brand in the 19th century, the Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel watch is the ultimate dress watch of prestige. In lieu of the conventional enamel colors (white or black), the resplendent dial is dark blue, sleek, and brilliant. 

The 18k white gold case measures 38mm in diameter and has a thickness of 8mm with long elegant lugs that ensures it sits a little wider than its measurement suggests. 

The vitreous enamel dial is adorned with Breguet’s signature numerals, while the minute markers are star-shaped. The hour and minute hands have been finished in rhodium-plated steel and feature the usual ‘Moon Tip Watch hands’ that Breguet first introduced in the 1780s. 

With the oversized silvered numerals, the conservative dress watch is given a mirthful personality that is extraordinary and second to none. An unconventionally shaped aperture displays the date at 3 o’clock without disrupting the dial’s symmetry, creating a legible and serene look.

It is powered by the sensational Calibre 777Q with 243 parts and 26 jewels that offer a power reserve of approximately 55 hours when the watch is fully wound.

Omega DeVille Trésor (ref. 432.53.40.21.03.001)

As one would anticipate from a marque with an innovative heritage, the execution of the DeVille Trésor is first class. Launched by OMEGA in 1949, the slim Trésor line was distinguished by its notable 30mm Calibre. But with the passing decades, the brand has gotten more technologically advanced, and this stunning timepiece is an accolade for its craftsmanship. 

The classic gents’ line now has watches with manual-winding Master Chronometer movements and come in stainless steel or 18K gold cases that measure 40mm in diameter. The ref. 432.53.40.21.03.001 is particularly alluring because it features a domed blue enamel dial that gives it a refined, elegant look. 

The vitreous, or Grand Feu enamel dial, has undergone an expert finishing, so it now has an avant-garde and somewhat extravagant appearance. Speaking of extravagance, the color of the date disc at 6 o’clock corresponds to that of the dial, and the hands, as well as the hour markers, have all been crafted from 18-carat white gold.

According to the brand, the logo and wording on the dial have been embellished by enamel prints through a ‘Petit Feu’ technique giving the timepiece an overall magnificent look. It is powered by the cal. 8929 with a magnetism resistance of over 15,000 Gauss and a power reserve of 72 hours.

Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010)

Introduced at Baselworld in 2017, the Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010) is a true connoisseur’s watch. Featuring complications like timing, chiming, and a perpetual calendar, the classic dress watch comes in a white gold case that measures 38mm in diameter.

With a height of 10.18mm, the timepiece is well-proportioned and will sit snugly on various medium-sized wrists. The brilliant black enamel dial with harmonious arabesque patterns is adorned with applied white gold markers that compliment the white gold case.

The firing at ultra-high temperatures has melted the enamel into a smooth consistency that is unique to this technique alone. The alluring arabesque patterns consist of a subtle contrast of matt and polished surfaces that offers a unique effect only an enamel dial can produce.

The overall quality of the dial is further illustrated by how the slender leaf-shaped hands reflect flawlessly on its surface. Discreet lozenge-shaped applied hour markers grace the face of the dial and offer excellent legibility. At the same time, a sub-dial at 6 o’clock turns pleasantly without disrupting the dial’s symmetry.

Beating at the watch’s heart at a frequency of 3 Hz is the caliber R 27 PS, a self-winding movement with 342 parts that features an exquisitely decorated mini rotor in 22K gold. Striking the hours, quarters, and minutes with a distinct tone on demand are two classic cathedral gongs.

The wearer can activate the gongs by using a slide piece at the left flank of the case. The strap is dark brown alligator leather with square scales fitted with an 18k white gold fold-over clasp.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon Enamel (Ref. Q1368480)

Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that knows how to release breathtaking timepieces. Coming in a limited edition of 100 pieces, the white gold case of the Ultra Thin Moon Enamel watch measures 39mm in diameter and is 10.04mm thick.

The classic watch with a contemporary appeal features a guilloché-enamel dial that bestows profound depth to the face of the watch.  A translucent enamel has been applied over the guilloché engraving on the dial in a process known as flinqué, giving off a very stunning effect.

The guilloché sunray pattern has fine, straight lines running from the center to the peripherals of the dial. The vivid midnight blue color of the transparent enamel becomes highly pronounced and sparkles when it hits the light just right.

The attention-grabbing watch is adorned with applied hour markers that are a little thinner and elongated than those featured in other Master Ultra Thin variants. A disc of mirror-polished white gold makes the moon shine brightly at 6 o’clock against the blue starry sky.

The date is displayed neatly on a ring framing the moon phase aperture, and this ring has been delicately engraved. The dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands, in white gold, sweep against the textured background discreetly, adding radiance and style to the stunning dial.

The watch is powered by the robust Caliber 925/2. Unlike the regular Caliber 925/1 fitted into the Ultra Thin Moon collection watches, this movement now provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours (from 43 hours). The watch comes mounted on a black alligator leather strap and has a water-resistant rating of 50 meters.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99)

Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of the its sponsorship of Bolshoi Theatre. The theater, which is in Moscow, is the parent organization of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet.

The Code 11.59 featured two outstanding variants; a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon that both came with smoked enamel dials. The ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99 measures 41mm across and is 10.7mm thick but wears a little larger than the measurements suggest, thanks to the skeletonized lugs attached only to the bezel.

The compelling blue dial is a breathtaking piece of craftsmanship. The enamel dial is smoked and conjures all kinds of emotions with its dusky effect as it graduates from a solid blue hue in the center to a darker rim. A slightly denser enamel coating at the edges of the dial transitions smoothly to the black lacquered flange for the minute numerals.

Much attention has been given to the execution of the dial as very few subtle imperfections can be noticed, unlike many other enamel dials. A date display lies discreetly between 4 and 5 o’clock and has been well integrated into the dial. The applied hour markers are in white gold, while the minute track comes in enamel print.

A sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides protects the dial. The watch is powered by the caliber 4302, a high-end movement with a combination of machine and hand-applied finishes. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of 70 hours.

Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Enamel Dial (ref. 3657.20.31)

The Broad Arrow Enamel Limited Series was first launched in 2002, commemorating Omega’s novel self-winding chronograph movement (the caliber 3303). The timepiece has nearly the same dimensions as in the original 1957 “Broad Arrow”, but a few differences can be noticed. 

The prominent features are still the broad arrow hour and minute hands, asymmetric crown guards, and laser-engraved tachymeter scale. The finely executed enamel dial appears practically perfect, with no visible imperfections exhibiting an outstanding quality in its execution. Bold Arabic numerals in black grace the glossy dial, which is protected by a domed sapphire crystal. 

A generous application of Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands ensures optimal legibility and makes the distinctive hands stand out in lowlight conditions. The diameter of the case is the same reasonable, yet contemporary 42mm, and it comes mounted on a black alligator strap. It is powered by the caliber 3320 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde (ref. 66260-3633-55B)

Famous for inventing one of the most complicated mechanical watches (Blancpain 1735), Blancpain continues to defy easy categorization by staying loyal to its tradition of innovation. The Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde is one of such technically challenging timepieces with top-notch craftsmanship.

Launched in 2018 at Baselworld, this is the first watch from Blancpain that features a flying tourbillon, jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and an enamel dial. The timepiece measures 42mm in diameter and has a height of 11mm. The enamel dial has the brand’s figure-of-eight display that offers an almost perfect symmetry, except for the funky off-center hour window. 

Despite the unconventional time display, legibility is excellent though reading the precise minute might take a while. The expensively executed glossy white look is a result of the champlevé dial. Engraving has been carried out on the discs to form the elevated borders surrounding the minute register and tourbillon aperture. 

Vitreous enamel has then been filled into the recessed areas and fired in an oven. The tourbillon rings and that of the hour window have been diamond polished, and together with the glossy enamel dial, the watch has an impressively sophisticated look. 

Oh, and the tourbillon looks like it’s floating since it’s delineated from the main dial, which is just breathtaking. The timepiece is powered by the robust in-house caliber 260 MR with an impressive 12-day power reserve.

Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999

Credor is a word taken from crête d’Or in French, which means “crest of gold”. Created by Seiko in 1974, the elegant dress watch line is the ethos of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship. The Eichi II is Seiko’s idea of minimalism with exceptional execution. Everything from the case, dial, and design has been carefully crafted by elite watchmakers nestled at Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, Japan.

The platinum case gives it a heft despite measuring just 39mm across. With a thickness of 10.3mm, the timepiece is likely to slide under a cuff but still feels solid in construction with its crocodile leather strap. The hand-made dial is emphatically devoid of adornments, but the white porcelain dial conceals a depth that is impossible to ignore.

The dial is hand-decorated and bears only heat-blued hands with tapering tips (which are strikingly elementary but also very pleasant), hour markers, and the word ‘Credor.’ The Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999 uses a Spring Drive movement that is water-resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 704.048)

A. Lange & Söhne is a globally renowned icon amongst the highly recognized top-shelf luxury watch manufacturers. “Handwerkskunst” is German for craftsmanship, and the collection promises timepieces with extraordinary artistry that have been crafted to perfection. 

Instantly recognizable on the dial are the off-centered subsidiary seconds dial, a big date window, a power reserve indicator, and an impressive view of the one-minute tourbillon. The tourbillon, nestled at the base of the 38.5mm watch at 5 o’clock, might take the spotlight, but the dial is magnificent in its simplicity.

The glossy black dial is a champlevé dial, which, as explained earlier, has first been carved out to fashion the indices and texts before being filled with vitreous enamel. Afterward, it is fired at about 800°C and polished.

The enamel dial has a striking appearance with floral engravings and a polished appearance that reflects the light just right as you move your wrist around. The hands of the watch and date surround are in white gold, and the enamel has been laid on a white gold disc (as against the general copper disc used for dials). 

Overall, the dial is superbly finished and will retain its quality for decades. Beating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour is the in-house caliber L961.3 with 378 parts and a power reserve of 72 hours.

H. Moser & Cie Heritage Tourbillon (ref. 8804-0200)

The Heritage Tourbillon from H. Moser & Cie pays tribute to the brand’s historic watches, which were technically challenging with superb craftsmanship. Expert hands that range from guilloché workers to enamellers have come together to produce this no-nonsense timepiece with an elegant display.

The 18kt white gold case is fully polished and measures a wearable 42mm by 12.2mm. The round shape of the case is reminiscent of vintage wristwatches and pocket watch features such as wire lugs and a railroad minute track give the timepiece a cool vintage look without compromising its graphics and contemporary aesthetics. 

The Grand Feu enamel dial is executed almost perfectly and looks sophisticated yet understated. The dial features a noticeable thinness that takes expertise to achieve, as many of such dials crack in the production process. It is smooth, glossy, and rich in texture with long-lasting quality and is adorned with large Roman numerals and flame-blued swallowtail hands. 

The overall design of the enamel dial is charming, original, and straightforward. The watch is powered by the in-house HMC 804 automatic caliber, which is visible through the sapphire case-back. 

anOrdain Model 2

Though a small Scottish brand, anOrdain has gained a reputation for producing understated watches with quintessential elegance. The brand established itself as a guru in manufacturing enameled dials when it released the first batch in 2018 (Model 1).

The Model 2 might be a small watch by modern standards (at 36mm in diameter and 11mm in height), but it wears slightly larger than its measurement suggests. The enamel dials come in six different colors, which are all eye-catching with profound depths. They include; Moss Green, Grey, Torr Blue, White, Purple, and Midnight Blue.

Complementing the clean dial are printed Arabic numerals. The numerals have been used only for the even numbers while matching baton markers are used for the odd numbers, and they are surrounded by a minute track.

The words “Vitreous Enamel” have been written on the 12 and 6 o’clock position, and skeletonized hour and minute hands, which are syringe-tipped, adorn the bland face of the dial. Providing a power reserve of 42 hours is the ubiquitous Sellita SW-210-1. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.

Nomos Glashütte Ludwig 38 Enamel White (ref. 236)

Nomos Glashütte launched two watches in 2020 to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the brand’s watchmaking practice in Glashütte: the Ludwig 38mm white enamel dial and the Ludwig 33mm white dial. Both cases were crafted from polished stainless steel and feature a tripartite construction with thin, elongated, sloping lugs and polished surfaces highlighting the classic design. 

Although it’s not technically a vitreous enamel dial, the result of the artistry carried out on the dial is identical to that of vitreous enamel dials (hence the name). High-gloss lacquer has been used to coat the dial in several layers, and each layer has been polished before the next is applied, resulting in a breathtaking refined look with the aesthetics of a white enamel-like finish. 

The dial does not glitter, but it does shine from certain angles. If viewed from the top, straight on, it displays a certain depth that cannot be replicated easily with other materials. When viewed from the sides, the glossy surface shines brilliantly depending on exposure to light. Narrow Roman numerals with railroad minute markers give the watch a vintage look, while thermally blued needle-thin hands add contemporary elegance.

The timepiece has a recessed second sub-dial at 6 o’clock and is powered by the in-house manufactured caliber, the Alpha, a hand-wound movement that offers 43 hours of power reserve. It is splashproof (30 meters water resistance rating) and comes mounted on a horween genuine shell cordovan brown strap.

Seiko Presage Enamel Dial SPB047J1

The Presage collection from Seiko has captivated watch enthusiasts since 2016, when it became available globally. The watch line boosts elegant timepieces inspired by the brand’s tradition-steeped classic pieces powered by in-house mechanical movements.

Seiko pays special attention to the design of the dials in this collection, as most of them are crafted in striking Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, enamel, etc. Coming on a black Crocodile leather strap with a three-fold clasp, the SPB047J1 is one of the most beautiful pieces in the range. Since vintage inspiration is a paramount feature of the collection, the watch is styled in line with the design of the first Seiko Laurel timepiece from 1913.

The hand-made white enamel dial features a warm and soft sheen with elegant deep blue hands and classical Roman indexes. Many of the enamel dials in the Presage collection feature his craftsmanship, and all pay tribute to the ancestral savoir-faire techniques of the brand.

Though the dial is not 100% faultless because of manual interventions, the handmade glossy look of the polished surface gives it a depth and texture that differentiates it from other standard painted/treated dials. 

The SPB047J1 is a pretty formal timepiece with a steel case that measures 40.5mm across, a thickness of 12.4mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47.8mm. It is powered by the Calibre 6R25, a mid-range, in-house automatic movement by Seiko with a stop second-hand function, date display, and 23 jewels. 

Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 Flying Tourbillon (ref. W6920105)

Presented with a brilliant blue flinqué enamel dial, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is a nod to the brand’s flair for sophisticated-looking watches. The Ballon Bleu collection, which was launched in 2007, has grown to enchant lovers of exquisite timepieces, making it one of Cartier’s all-time bestsellers.

The flinqué enamel dial here is different in that it combines two ancient dial-making techniques; guilloché and enameling. The metal disc for the base has first been patterned with guilloche and then coated with colored enamel.

Through high-temperature firing, the enamel covering becomes fixated with the metallic dial underneath, and the arduous process is repeated severally to obtain a glossy, brilliant color. Afterward, the dial is polished to offer a rich appearance and depth.

The satin-brushed cartouche dial is almost bare, except for its sword-shaped hands in steel and Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Providing 60 hours of power reserve is the robust caliber 9452 MC, a mechanical manual winding movement with 142 parts. It is fitted on a dark blue alligator leather strap.

Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)

Louis Erard is a respected brand known for its affordable luxury watches. The Émail Grand Feu II is the second model from the brand that features a radiant Grand Feu enamel dial. Following Louis Erard’s grand tradition of métiers d’art, the timepiece is a beautiful mix of traditional and contemporary aesthetics.

The vitreous enamel dial is rendered in pristine white with lively blue indications that pleasantly contrast the effusive purity of the façade. Certain purists will be delighted to know that the radiance of the enamel dial is perpetual and the color is fixed permanently. Also, the multiple layers of enamel powder, which have been fused to the thin metal disc, are forever bonded to it. 

The handcrafted dial features applied Roman numerals and some long slender markers with a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The brand’s Fir Tree hands have been blued so that they sit prominently against the serene enamel, while a striking red Roman numeral at 12 adds a fine touch of animation to the dial.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Sellita SW261-1 self-winding movement that provides a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch measures 38mm in diameter and has a height of 12.25mm. It comes on a red-grained calfskin strap with bright blue stitches at each lug, creating an elegant ensemble.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon (ref. 730.079)

A. Lange & Sohne is a brand highly respected for its horological exactitude, and the classic 1815 Tourbillon is an allusion to the ingenious technicality of the brand. The design is inspired by vintage pocket watches, so it is conservatively styled but stands out from the timepieces in A. Lange & Söhne’s catalog due to its stark white enamel dial with a vivid red “12”.

The diminutive 38mm platinum case has been polished on all sides save for some sections of the case back and the caseband, giving the watch a radiant gleam. The grand-feu dial has a brilliant white color with a glossy surface. According to the brand, it has taken about 30 manual processes to craft each dial, which just points to the series of painstaking actions often repeated numerous times to produce this flawless surface.

The glossy white dial is adorned with the radiant blue lance-shaped hands, the A. Lange & Söhne’s curved logo, bold black Arabic numerals, and a chemin-de-fer. Overall, no concession to expedience is observed in any detail. The watch features several patented devices and is powered by the hand-wound Calibre L102.1, which can store up to 72 hours of energy.

Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 (ref. 161977-5001)

Presented in a 40mm x 10.3mm satin-brushed and polished 18K rose gold case, the Quattro Spirit 25 is Chopard’s first jumping-hour timepiece. The white grand feu enamel dial is strongly legible with an impressive quality that adds to the timepiece’s appeal.

Produced in-house by Chopard’s artisans, the beauty of the enamel dial is enchanting and won’t diminish with the onset of the years. A rose gold disc has been used as the base underneath, and successive layers of vitreous enamel have been carefully applied and fired at high temperatures to attain a glossy surface that beams beautifully when viewed from the top. 

At the base of the dial (6 o’clock), we find the jumping-hour aperture with a black Arabic numeral against a white disc that ‘jumps’ when the minute hand strikes 60. The display is framed with a mesmerizing rose gold bolder that instantly attracts the wearer to the prevailing hour, located subtly within the main dial.

The “L.U.CHOPARD” logo is located beneath the 60-minute mark, railway track, and Arabic numerals indicating the minutes have been produced by black enamel, while a gilded Dauphine hand is used to indicate the minutes.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Calibre LUC 98.06-L. A hand-wound movement with 240 components, including 42 jewels, provides an impressive power reserve of 192 hours.

Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture (ref. 3203-136-2/E3)

Showcasing the precious art of enameling in all its grandeur is the Classico Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin. The dial is created by Donzé Cadrans, a subsidiary of the brand with talented designers who are specialists in enameling. The dress watch is a perfect blend of elegance and style and is presented in a classic stainless-steel case that measures 40 mm across.

The blue grand feu enamel dial is breathtaking, and the designers have tried to keep it as understated as possible. The dial, made by applying vitreous enamel over a guilloché base and repeatedly firing at ultra-high temperatures, has a uniqueness that cannot be synthetically replicated.

The blue hue and patterns are altered depending on how the light hits the dial, and the legibility is excellent thanks to its luminous hands and hour markers. Embossed Roman indicators are used to mark 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, while embossed bars are used to mark the other hours.

An in-laid sub-dial at 6 o’clock is excellently designed and displays the seconds. It also shows the date through a round aperture, indicative of the nautical heritage. Powering the watch is the self-winding UN-320 caliber, an in-house movement by Ulysse Nardin. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. It is fitted to a blue alligator strap and is water resistant to 30 meters.

Moritz Grossmann Atum Enamel White Gold (ref. MG-000807)

Moritz Grossmann is a watch manufacturer known to produce some of the world’s most exquisite timepieces, and what we have here is a true paragon of exclusive watchmaking.

Standing out with impeccable graphics and noble minimalism, the Atum Enamel can easily be described as functional and clean with its classic round case that has been fashioned out of rose gold. 

The watch measures a fitting 41mm across and is 11.65mm high. The timepiece’s overall design is vintage-inspired but enlivened by contemporary styling patterns and nuances. The glossy surface of the dial is perhaps a bit too stark, but it has a charming vibrancy that cannot be imitated by lacquering methods.

Narrow Roman numerals in black provide excellent contrast and legibility against the gleaming white surface, while the vivid blue numeral at 12 o’clock proffers a stylish touch of animation to it. At the base, a subtle small seconds counter for the seconds has been slightly sunken and takes the position of the 6 o’clock index without disrupting the symmetry of the dial.

Three traditionally styled Lancette hands, made of steel, sweep across the face of the dial, and all have been polished so brightly that they stand out sharply against the peaceful beauty of the enamel. The watch is powered by Moritz Grossmann’s caliber 100.1, which beats at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel (ref. J013013200)

Jaquet Droz is a brand that has gained popularity by crafting iconic timepieces that can easily be aligned with works of art. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel is particularly spellbinding with classic good looks and typical Jaquet Droz quality. The 18K red gold case measures 39mm in diameter, a suitable size relative to the movement it houses, and wide enough to offer the watch a notable presence on the wrist without being enormous.

The look is familiar and quite noticeable is the distinctive lucky number 8, which has become a recurring theme for the brand. This time, however, it is presented on a gorgeous expanse of soft-spoken ivory enamel. As expected from a marquee with the outstanding heritage of Jaquet Droz, the execution of the white ivory enamel is first class.

The superb ivory enamel dial, which is more complicated to create than it looks, has a factory-fresh appearance with a warm, brilliant white color that will not age over time. The phenomenal dial is adorned with 18K red gold hours and minutes hands, blued steel seconds hand, and a beautiful tourbillon that reveals a palpable degree of luxury. 

Inside, the Grande Seconde Tourbillon beats the in-house Jaquet Droz 25JD, an impressively constructed self-winding movement with detailed hand-finishing that offers a power reserve of about 7 days. Overall the timepiece is a true paragon of exclusive fine watchmaking and is fitted to a hand-made black alligator leather strap.

Conclusion

The making of an enamel dial is a labor of love with a million heartbreaks. This is why watches with enamel dials would remain the most prestigious among all others.

I’m of the mind that if you can purchase something as haute horological as a timepiece with an impressive enamel dial, by all means, do. Not only do they epitomize continued respect for the ancient craft, but they are also ageless and have great long-term collectible potential.

Sports watches are one of the most popular categories of watches, with prominent models such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus, and many Rolex sport models taking center stage. Their versatility in style and durability are desirable traits for many watch buyers, even beyond enthusiast groups.

These watches are designed for durability, aimed to withstand the trials and tribulations of an active lifestyle and to look good while doing it.  With attire standards becoming increasingly casual, the versatility of sports watches often makes for a one-watch collection. Usually more boldly designed than traditional dress watches, they also frequently feature dark dials, emphasizing their sporting character and increasing their versatility.

While not as popular, white-dialed sports watches can increase a watch’s visual impact, often making them appear larger. Some designs can offer even more visual contrast, improving legibility. This article will explain the history of sports watches and offer 15 white-dialed sports watches for your consideration. 

What Is a Sports Watch?

This may seem obvious to those involved in watches for some time, but it’s a worthy distinction, especially compared to hardcore tool watches. Sports watches are usually aimed to have an element of durability over a dress watch. That usually means being made of non-precious metals (steel, titanium, even ceramic), increased water resistance (above 50 meters usually), and the inclusion of a bracelet or non-leather strap (textile or rubber). 

There are always exceptions, as there are plenty of sports watches made of precious metals, watches with more sporting designs with less water resistance, and sporty watches on leather straps. Sports watches exist in the space between dress watches and tool watches.

An example of a sports watch that overlaps with the dress category would be the Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso. Initially designed in the 1930s so that the reversing case would protect the glass front of the watch during polo matches, this is undoubtedly designed with sporting intentions and is one of the first sports watches ever made.

Nowadays, the art deco design and proportions, even with the larger models, lean more towards the modern idea of a dress watch than a sports watch. An example of a tool watch that overlaps with the sports watch category would be the famed Rolex Submariner.

Originally designed to be a tool for divers to time their dives (the rotating bezel would be used to time oxygen available during the dive), ever since Sean Connery wore a Submariner with a dinner jacket in Dr.No, the sartorial versatility of the Rolex Submariner has been cemented in popular culture.

Modern Submariners have more reflective surfaces and luxury appointments with white gold hands and indices, making the watch look and feel more high-end. This increases the flexibility between its originally utilitarian purposes and modern casual chic-ness.

Traditionalists would still shy away from wearing a Submariner or any dive watch with a suit, but modern tastes have allowed it for decades. Ultimately, if you look at a watch and question whether it is a dress watch or a tool watch, it will likely fall in the sports watch category. 

A (very) Brief History of Sports Watches

As mentioned with the Reverso, sports watches are very close to tool watches considering they are often designed with a purpose. Another distinction is that sports watches combine utility and style (the Reverso is a great example). 

Early Omega Seamasters are also quite dressy by modern standards but would have been considered sports watches back in their day, as they had more substantial steel cases and increased water resistance compared to the more traditional De Ville and Constellation collections in Omega’s catalog. 

It was not until Omega wanted to compete with the increasingly popular dive watch market of the mid to late 1950s that we saw the Seamaster resemble anything close to the Seamaster dive watches we are familiar with today.

The IWC Ingenieur reference 666 and Rolex Milgaus reference 1016 were tool watches in their day, offering increased durability in regards to magnetism, but with their clean but bold case designs leaning more into the sporting direction. 

In the 1970s, watch companies began to release watches closer to the modern idea of a sports watch, particularly integrated bracelet sports watches. With the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak being released in 1972 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, the idea of a luxury sports watch took hold. 

The 1970s saw almost every major watch brand release an interpretation of the integrated bracelet steel sports watch. These watches varied in terms of thickness, water resistance, and durability of movements inside, emphasizing that sports watches are often more about style than all-out durability.

Compared to watches prior, these watches definitely made a bold statement, as they were larger than dress watches of the day, and the integrated designs made them appear even bulkier. These bold designs won favor with fashion icons and athletes. Fast-forwarding to the mid-2000s, brands were frequently partnering with athletes.

Audemars-Piguet and Hublot have released numerous limited editions commemorating sports stars they have partnered with. Even without celebrity partnerships, sports watches became the watch style of choice for many celebrities. This influenced consumers, as many wanted to mimic the style of their favorite stars. 

Why a White-Dialed Sports Watch?

As mentioned in the introduction, white-dialed sports watches are much bolder than dark-dialed ones. Some white-dialed sports watches will have silver hands and indices, which will make them appear more formal but will decrease legibility.

Colored watch dials have become increasingly popular in recent years; however, they are not for everyone. If you want to make more of a prominent statement with your watch than a black-dialed sports watch but are unwilling to jump to a brightly colored one, a white-dial sports watch should be on your radar.

15 White-Dialed Sports Watches

This list is not in any particular order; it highlights well-made models from various brands that offer white-dialed sports watches in their catalog (both past and present). Hopefully, this list will aid in narrowing down your own choice for a favorite white-dialed sports watch. 

1. Rolex Explorer II (ref. 226570-0001)

The Rolex Explorer II was originally designed as a tool for cave dwellers. A prominent feature of the Explorer II is the fixed external bezel indicating the 24-hour time. This was of concern for people working in caves, as they would be without any reference to day or night for extended periods.

When the GMT-Master finally received an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, so did the Explorer II. This allowed the Explorer II to track two timezones and maintain its original functionality. 

In its current white dial configuration (reference 226570-0001), the Explorer II features black indices surrounds and outlined hands to increase legibility. The Explorer II also recently received a mild case re-design, creating more integration between the case and bracelet and allowing for a case design more reminiscent of vintage Rolex cases but at a modern 42mm. 

With 100 meters of water resistance, screw down crown, a 70-hour power reserve, and a steel bracelet with Rolex’s own “Easy-Link” that allows for 5mm of tool-less adjustment, there are more than enough modern features to make the 226570 an easy watch to live with (a desirable trait for a sports watch). 

With a retail price of $9,650, the Explorer II sits somewhere in the middle of the Rolex sports model range. The good news is that availability is increasing, but still difficult as of March 2023. If you are considering searching for a used one, you should still expect to pay a premium over the retail price. 

2. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.04.001)

When Omega redesigned the Seamaster Diver 300m in 2018, many enthusiasts were quite excited to see the return of the wave motif on the dial. This release marked the arrival of the Omega Caliber 8800 in the Seamaster Diver 300m, which features an increased anti-magnetism rating to above 15,000 gauss.

The METAS Master Chronometer certification also certifies the watch to -0/+6 seconds a day, ensuring a high level of accuracy. The slight increase over previous iterations from 41mm to 42mm may seem negligible. With thicker lugs, case height, and an updated bracelet, the watch is bolder on the wrist.

The white-dialed Seamaster Diver 300m features black outlined indices and hands, ensuring good legibility. While this is a dive watch, meaning it definitely has tool watch capabilities, the detailed finishing of the case and bracelet put this watch in the camp of what is often called a “dress-diver.”

It is still highly capable, but the case’s greater attention to detail and light-catching quality increase the jewelry factor. This may be a drawback to some looking for a more tool-oriented watch, but it also increases its flexibility with varying attire. With a retail price of $5600 on the bracelet, Omega is offering a great deal of technology, finishing, and innovation for the money.

3. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300-0004)

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is the closest to the original Rolex Oyster design in the current catalog. Recent years have seen many updates, including various sizes and dial colors. For a short period from 2018 to 2020, Rolex offered the Oyster Perpetual in 39mm, which was favored by many but has since been replaced by a 41mm version of the watch.

Still, many watch enthusiasts consider the 39mm to be a goldilocks size, especially since Rolex Oyster cases wear slightly larger than their measured dimensions. The white dial reference does have silver-colored hands and indices, making it less legible but more versatile in its ability to be worn with more formal attire.

If this is a concern, this version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual would be a great choice, as the size and design are casual enough to handle the beach and can also be dressed up with a shirt and tie. Being an entry-level model from Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual does not feature a raised crown on the clasp, no flip-lock, and no Easy-Link adjustment on the clasp.

That does not, however, make the watch any less robust. Another downside of the white-dialed 39mm Oyster Perpetual is that it was discontinued in 2020. If you want to buy one, you are at the mercy of the used market regarding pricing. 

4. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “GoodPlanet” (ref. 231.90.39.21.04.001)

This version of the Omega Aqua Terra features a titanium case and bracelet in a 38.5mm size. Coming from the previous generation of the Aqua Terra line, this case is slightly asymmetrical, similar to the Speedmaster, but does feature the Master Co-Axial anti-magnetic movement. 

The dial is smooth, unlike the teak texturing that has been a hallmark of the collection for the last two generations of Aqua Terra. With the addition of the blue-colored indices and hands, this model will present on the more dressy side of sports watches, much closer to the original Seamasters of the 1940s and 50s. 

While the style is pretty conservative, the watch still offers 150 meters of water resistance, making it a strong candidate for an only-watch collection. Should the bracelet be too sporty, a change of strap will allow this watch to pair with more formal attire easily.

The titanium case and bracelet will be a welcome upgrade for some, as it is hypoallergenic and significantly lighter than steel. If you are a fan of watches with more significant weight to them, then a standard stainless steel Aqua Terra may be a better option.

Another point worth considering is that the titanium models come at a slight premium over the stainless steel ones, and this model has been discontinued. They are available on the used market, and you may still be able to find a new-old stock example at a dealer. 

5. Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” has become a well-known model for the brand. Grand Seiko has been highly regarded for its case, dial, and movement finishing that competes with much more expensive timepieces. Grand Seiko has been more adventurous with dials recently, but the Snowflake was the first to garner mainstream attention. 

Similar to the Aqua Terra “Good Planet,” this watch also features a titanium case and bracelet. The SBGA211 utilizes Grand Seiko’s caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement, which uses a mechanical gear train and a quartz regulating system. 

By doing so, Grand Seiko is able to offer accuracy that is rated to +/- 15 seconds a month. Another notable feature of the Spring Drive movements is the effortless glide of the seconds hand, moving across the dial much smoother than high-beat mechanical movements. 

Featuring silver hands and indices, and no luminescent on the dial, the SBGA211 is one of the dressier options on this list. While it won’t help in pitch-black situations, the hands and indices are polished so that they catch light in low-light conditions, so you should still be able to read the time if you find yourself in a dimly lit establishment late in the evening.

There is still a screw-down crown, and 100m of water resistance should the evening also involve a fair amount of water. Retailing at $6,200, Grand Seiko offers buyers quite a unique set of specifications, design, and fit and finish.

6. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-011

The first of the traditional “Holy Trinity” on this list (consisting of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin), the Nautilus is Patek’s offering in the steel sports watch realm. Designed by Gerald Genta, the Nautilus is softer and rounder in appearance compared to the Royal Oak. 

The black outlined indices and hands on the white dial make this reference stand out compared to the more conservative blue and dark grey dialed Nautilus watches that are more common. While maintaining a pretty thin profile of 8.3mm and still using a highly finished caliber 324 S C that is up to Patek Philippe’s standard of fit and finish, the Nautilus is rated to 120 meters of water resistance. 

This makes the Nautilus a more than capable sports watch and could be someone’s only watch. This would also be a great companion for a client’s sporting ventures while their more traditional watches stay safe at home, likely the original intention of Patek Philippe.

If there is ever an opportunity to see one in person, it will probably be quickly evident why the Nautilus is so popular. This model was offered from 2012-2020, and in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the prices quickly rose past the original retail price soon after discontinuation.

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15400ST.OO.1220ST.02)

Possibly the most famous of the integrated bracelet sports watches (alongside the Nautilus) is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This iteration is a more contemporary version in terms of movement and case size. The movement inside is more durable and up-to-date than the ultra-thin JLC-based movement used in the famous Jumbo iteration of the Royal Oak.

Featuring a full balance bridge to aid in balance spring stability, and a modern 60-hour power reserve, this movement is closer to the standards expected for a contemporary sports watch. While the Royal Oak has been offered in various sizes over the years, this 41mm version is one of the largest time-only Royal Oaks ever made and will have even more presence on the wrist, given the white dial.

The look on the wrist will be closer to the Royal Oak Offshore than the Jumbo. Fortunately, this watch is not as thick as the Offshore, measuring 9.8mm thick. The silver indices and hands will also help this watch dress up easily.

8. Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B126)

Rounding out the traditional “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Originally designed by Vincent Kaufmann and Dino Modolo, the design took inspiration from Vacheron’s 222 model from the 1970s, which Jörg Hysek designed. While offering a very similar look and feel to the Nautilus and Royal Oak, the Overseas integrates the brand’s Maltese Cross logo in the design of the bezel and bracelet. 

While a tad thicker than the Royal Oak and Nautilus at 11mm thick, it is still slim enough to be worn with most dress shirts. A few benefits of the Overseas compared to the Royal Oak and Nautilus is that the Overseas is rated to 150 meters of water resistance and includes a leather and rubber strap along with the steel bracelet. The added durability and flexibility of these features allow the Overseas to fit into various situations, both in terms of style and functionality. 

With a retail price of $22,500 and still being offered in the brand’s current catalog, the Vacheron Overseas will be a good choice for many. It is still challenging to get from boutiques and authorized retailers, but more available than Nautilus’ and Royal Oak’s that are in their respective brands’ current catalogs. 

9. Omega Speedmaster Racing (ref. 329.30.44.51.04.001)

The Speedmaster Racing collection has been a line in Omega’s catalog aimed at the more motorsport-oriented clientele. With the staggered seconds indications around the outer edge of the dial, this design allows for a more facile reading of partials of a second (in this instance, a 1/4 of a second). 

Being a modern automatic Speedmaster, this reference uses a bi-compax layout (two subdials only). It still measures events up to 12 hours, with the hours and minutes totaled at the 3 o’clock subdial and the running seconds shown at 9 o’clock.

Another cool feature of the Omega Calibre 9900 is the jumping hour hand, which allows you to set the hours independently of the rest of the watch. This feature is convenient while traveling, as it enables the user to change the hours without completely stopping the timepiece.

Measuring 14.9mm thick and 44.25mm wide, this Speedmaster is quite large, but shortened lugs and a stepped case design allow it to wear well for its size. While less than other watches here, the rated 50 meters of water resistance is quite good for a chronograph and should be more than enough considering the intention is for motor racing and not water sports.

This watch also features Omega’s Master Chronometer technology, creating a modern and durable anti-magnetic movement. The Omega Speedmaster Racing retails for $9,100 on a steel bracelet. 

10. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

The Black Bay line has been a home run for Tudor. The Black Bay Chrono is no exception, as many enthusiasts see it as a more obtainable alternative to the Rolex Daytona. Tudor has managed to create their own identity, as their designs continue to differentiate itself from other brands.

With bold indices and “snowflake” hands, there is no doubt about the Black Bay’s sporting intentions. The Black Bay Chrono is similar to the Speedmaster Racing with its black-and-white theme and bi-compax layout. Here, the Tudor can only measure events up to 45 minutes with the counter at 3 o’clock and the running seconds at 9 o’clock. 

The Calibre MT5813 shares architecture with Breitling, as the two brands have partnered together to provide movements to one another. The MT5813 has a 70-hour power reserve, which adds convenience should you have a few watches you like to rotate through. 

With screw-down pushers, the Black Bay Pro can be rated to 200 meters of water resistance (with the crown and pushers screwed in). While shown here with a bracelet, which is the most popular choice, Tudor also offers a variety of straps should the bracelet not be to your liking. 

The 41mm dimension of the case seems quite reasonable on paper, but the Black Bay line typically has relatively long lugs, and large case sides, making the watch wear pretty large on the wrist. Combined with the fairly reasonable retail price of $5,450, the case dimensions have not stopped many buyers from being very happy with the Black Bay line. 

11. TAG Heuer Night Diver (ref. WBP201D.FT6197)

One of the more unique watches on this list is the TAG Heuer Night Diver. With a large 43mm black DLC-coated steel case, black ceramic bezel, and textured white dial, this watch will make a statement on the wrist. 

The dial has white lumed indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and black indices for the remainder, with a date at 6 o’clock as well. The black indices on a white dial are very bold and striking. The main attraction of this watch is that the entire dial is lumed, meaning the white dial glows green in the dark.

If nighttime legibility is of utmost concern for you, this should be towards the top of your list for white dial sports watches. While the watch comes on a rubber strap instead of a bracelet, the clasp does include a micro-adjust mechanism, making quick adjustments easy.

The movement inside is not an in-house, high-tech movement like many other watches featured on this list. The ETA or Sellita-based Calibre 5 will allow for easy service down the road. Given the black case and luminescent dial, the Night Diver likely won’t be as flexible sartorially compared to other watches on this list and will likely be best suited for casual and sporting environments.

Retailing at $3,750, the TAG Heuer Night Diver seems a bit expensive compared to similar dive watches, but few have such a bold, high-contrast look.

12. Breitling Superocean Heritage (ref. AB20303A1A1A1)

This specific Breitling Superocean Heritage was released as a limited edition for the Greek market in 2022 and was limited to 100 units. The good news is that for Breitling enthusiasts, this is definitely a watch to search for. The bad news is that it will be more challenging to find compared to standard models, and the secondary market will dictate prices. 

On the other side of the Tudor and Breitling partnership, here Breitling utilizes the Breitling caliber B20, which is based on the Tudor MT5612. The movement has a 70-hour power reserve and is chronometer certified.

The vintage-inspired design, blue accents on the dial, and blue bezel should allow this watch to pair well with various situations, from full-on water sports to cocktail attire dinners. The timepiece is large at 44mm, and the Breitling Superocean Heritage line does wear its size.

Even though the design is vintage-inspired, the modern movement and ceramic bezel will ensure that the watch will stand up to the trials and tribulations of an adventurous Mediterranean vacation. 

13. Panerai Luminor Marina (ref. PAM01314)

The Panerai Luminor is one of the brand’s icons (alongside the Radiomir). Designed for the Italian Navy, these watches were designed to be extremely durable and legible. One of the design hallmarks of Panerai is its use of sandwich dials.

This means that the dial is multi-layered, with the lower layer containing luminescent paint, and the upper dial has the numerals and indices cut out, allowing them to glow in low-light environments. More traditional Panerai watches have black dials with green luminescent or, more recently, tan luminescent to mimic vintage lume.

Here, the lume is grey with a white dial. While the monochromatic look may sound dull, it makes for a very striking watch, especially with the iconic Luminor case that features the prominent crown locking mechanism. While 44mm is a large watch, Panerai watches have always been large, which is part of the look.

The movement inside is Panerai’s P.9010 calibre, which uses two mainspring barrels to achieve a 72-hour power reserve. The watch is rated to 300 meters of water resistance, ensuring it can handle the aquatic duties the watch was originally designed for.

Additionally, Panerai watches have been known to look great on various straps, and there is a thriving community of Paneristi happy to share their favorite combinations online. 

The Panerai PAM01314 retails for $8,400.

14. Czapek Passage De Drake Ice White on Rubber Strap

Should owning something rarely seen elsewhere be towards the top of your priority list, the Czapek Passage De Drake Ice White should be considered. 

The Passage De Drake features contrasting brushed and polished finishing on the bracelet and case, with a mirror-polished bezel. The dial has a stamped “flinqué” dial, with an exclusive and registered “Stairway to Eternity” pattern. 

Inside is the Calibre SHX5 movement, an in-house micro-rotor movement with 60 hours of power reserve from a single mainspring barrel. The micro-rotor design has the rotor in line with the movement instead of sitting on top, which allows for a thinner case design. 

The Passage De Drake measures 40.5mm in diameter, 10.6mm thick, and is rated to 120 meters of water resistance. Also impressive is that Czapek managed to keep the watch thin with this water resistance and have a display case back to see this unique movement. 

The bracelet features a micro-adjustment system in the clasp and an “Easy Release” system that allows for easy changes between the bracelet and an additional calf leather or rubber strap.

If you like the general look of integrated bracelet watches but want something different than the usual suspects, the Czapek Passage De Drake is worth considering and worthy of high praise. 

The retail price of the Czapek Passage De Drake is $22,000. 

15. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain often does not get enough credit, as they were the first to market with the modern dive watch in 1953, beating Rolex. Their Fifty-Fathoms line is their flagship dive watch, with the current iterations based on a model revamp released in 2007. 

This Fifty-Fathoms uses the in-house caliber 1315, a high-jeweled movement with 35 jewels, and a 120-hour power reserve. While the finishing may look spartan in photos, in real life, the movement decoration is quite detailed and done to a high level.

Daytime legibility will be somewhat compromised with the white dial, silver hands, and silver with white luminescent indices. However, with the white bezel covered with a sapphire insert, and white strap, this almost entirely white watch is more of a fashion statement than a functional tool watch.

While highly capable with 300 meters of water resistance and more than enough lume on the dial and bezel, there will be no problem timing dives or the parking meter while on a night out. While no longer in the Blancpain catalog, some searching and patience should allow for a reasonable price on the used market. 

Conclusion

The popularity of sports watches is easy to understand. For many, a good sports watch could be the only one they own, as it is often designed with functionality and style in mind. Even collectors with many timepieces may purchase several sports watches, as they can vary significantly in design. 

Because of the variety of designs, there will certainly be a sports watch on the market that resonates with almost every buyer, whether their tastes align more on the slim and elegant side of sports watches or the more robust and utilitarian end. Should a white-dialed sports watch be appealing, hopefully, this list will aid in your search.

Orange may not be one of the most common dial colors for watches, but it’s certainly one of the most interesting. Watch brands have been using orange dials for more than half a century. While the color was originally used primarily for dive watches to increase visibility, orange can be used for several different styles of watches; though, it’s generally considered more of a sports watch hue than one that’s appropriate for a dress watch.

However, that’s not necessarily a hard and fast rule. There are a handful of dressy style watches that have a pop of orange accent to add just a bit more personality to an otherwise classic look. Check out the list we’ve compiled below of orange dial watches, and you’ll likely find something that suits your style. Now orange you glad you’re reading this?

So You Have an Orange Crush?

If you’re thinking of getting yourself an orange dial watch, then there are a few things you should consider first. What you plan to use the timepiece for is perhaps the most crucial factor in choosing the best orange dial watch for you. Next is the functionality of the watch as well as your budget. Ensure all of these factors are nailed down before you make your purchase.

About Orange Dial Watches

Though it’s hard to know what was the first ever orange dial watch, the Swiss brand Doxa is widely considered one of the first major watch brands to use a bright orange dial on their timepieces. As alluded to earlier, the first orange dial watches were designed to be highly legible, and style was less of a concern. However, throughout the years, there have been a number of watches that have incorporated orange onto the dial for reasons other than strict legibility.

Should You Buy an Orange Dial Watch?

Most orange dial watches are intentionally bold designs. Some are bold to increase legibility; others are bold for the sheer fun of it. There are also a few models that just offer a slight pop of color to spruce up an otherwise ordinary dial. One thing is for sure; you probably don’t want to buy an orange dial watch if you’re afraid of a little attention. 

Orange dial watches garner looks because they’re so rare. Also, if you’re looking for something with extra bright legibility, whether it’s for diving or other low-light situations, then an orange dial watch might be the perfect choice for you. 

Review the following list, and you’ll be sure to pick an orange dial watch that works for you (see what I did there?).

1. Tag Heuer Aquaracer Orange (ref. WBP201F.BA0632)

Tag Heuer is one of the most well-known luxury watch brands for a reason. They’ve been making high-quality watches of all sorts since 1860. In the 20th century, they made their name as a giant in the motor racing and sports watch industries. The Aquaracer is a great dive watch that you can depend on. 

With a size of 43mm, a Tag Heuer Caliber 5 automatic movement with over 40 hours of power reserve, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown with 300 meters of water resistance, this amazing dive watch will make you wonder why you never owned one before.

2. Doxa Sub 1500T Orange Diver (ref. 883.10.351.10)

This cushion-cased beauty from Doxa has some serious diving chops. Rated at 1500 meters of water resistance, there are few places that this watch can’t go under the sea. It has all the bells and whistles you would expect from a professional-grade diver, including an ample diameter of 45mm, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, helium escape valve, and even a dive suit extension. So grab your gear and get in the water ASAP!

3. Breitling Superocean 36 (ref. A18316D7101S1)

This slightly vintage-inspired Breitling Superocean 36 makes a real statement on the wrist. For starters, the diminutive 36mm case size is a reminder of the more modestly sized watches of the past. It also has gorgeous applied dagger indices and Arabic numerals at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock.

The bright orange dial and matching silicone branded strap more than make up for the wrist presence surrendered by the smaller case. It has a sapphire crystal, a Breitling automatic movement, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and an impressive 200 meters of water resistance.

4. Oris ProPilot X (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)

Pilot’s watches may not be the first thing you think of when you hear orange dial, but from now on, they may just be top of your mind. This beautifully muted orange dial Oris ProPilot is pure style.

It has the classic ProPilot design, including a lightweight titanium case and bracelet, the caliber 400 Oris automatic movement with a mind-boggling 120-hour power reserve, 100 meters of water resistance, and a comfortable case size of 39mm. The beautiful bracelet also has a foldover clasp, ensuring a safe and secure fit on your wrist.

5. Rolex Oysterdate Precision 6694 Orange Dial

You can never really go wrong with Rolex, and this bright orange Oysterdate Precision is the perfect evidence of that. With a small size of 34mm, it’s lightweight and comfortable. It has a Rolex hand-wound movement and date window, and it’s made from Rolex’s solid 904L stainless steel. 

Keep in mind that this is a slightly older watch than many on the list. That means that the advertised water resistance may not be quite up to the standard of the others. But who needs to go in the ocean when you’re strolling around the land with a sweet Rolex strapped to your wrist?

6. Nomos Glashütte Club Campus (ref. 710)

As one of the premier watch brands in the famed Glashütte region of Germany, Nomos has built an excellent reputation for quality and refined style. The Club Campus model also adds a bit of flare to that description with its gorgeous muted orange dial variant. 

It has a classic diameter of 36mm, a clean and simple sub seconds dial, a beautiful gray velour leather strap, a domed sapphire crystal, and a lumed combination of Arabic and Roman numerals. This brand’s eye for design is always impressive, and the Club Campus is a perfect example of that. For being orange, this watch is just peachy!

7. Christopher Ward C60 Sapphire Orange (ref. S60-40ADA3-S00O0-B0)

Christopher Ward offers watches of all different stripes at a reasonable price. This C60 model is inspired by the sun. It has a deep orange color sapphire dial that allows you to see straight into the movement.

It also has a sapphire crystal covering the dial, a Sellita automatic movement, a unidirectional rotating bezel, a 40mm diameter, and 600 meters of water resistance. The 38 hours of power reserve will help you be sure to always be on time, even when you’ve taken a day off from diving.

8. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Orange

If there’s one thing that nobody does better than Bell & Ross, it’s exciting and out-of-the-ordinary designs. This interesting angular watch offers an eye-catching square case design with four screws at the corners. But it’s not just about the looks.

The BR 03-92 also has 300 meters of water resistance, a solid flexible rubber bracelet, a reasonable 42mm diameter, a screw-down crown, and an AR-coated scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. This watch is sure to garner plenty of envious glances, both in and out of the water.

9. Longines Dolcevita Orange Dial (ref. L5.512.4.92.2)

While most watches on this list tend to be in the sports watch realm, Longines has a far different offering. The Dolcevita is a rectangular dress watch series that fits in almost as well with jeans and a t-shirt as it does under a suit.

This orange dial variant has a small seconds sundial, a simple, clean dial design, a highly accurate quartz movement, and a diminutive width of just 23mm. This one can also serve as a unisex model, fitting both men and women in either a casual or formal setting. 

10. Seiko Orange Monster SKX781

Seiko is one of the most well-respected watch brands on earth. Solid dive watches like the SKX781 are just one reason why that won’t likely be changing any time soon. It has a sturdy and attractive stainless steel diving bezel that rotates unidirectionally and a bright and highly visible orange dial. 

The handset and applied indices have ample lume, and the rubber bracelet is sturdy and comfortable. It also has a virtually bulletproof Seiko automatic movement, a screw-down crown, and a respectable 200 meters of water resistance. This one does live up to its name. It’s a monster!

11. Doxa Sub 200 (ref. 799.10.351.21)

The Doxa Sub 200 really is one of the best-looking classic dive watches you’ll find anywhere. Based on some of their famed dive watches from decades earlier, the Sub 200 has 200 meters of water resistance, a size of 42mm, making it both unassuming and legible, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. 

The supple waterproof silicone strap matches the orange of the dial, and the date window at 3 o’clock will keep you diving on time. Add to that the screw-down crown for added water resistance, and you have yourself a tangerine dream!

12. Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005K1

Did you think we could finish this list without at least one more offering from Seiko? We think not. The SSK005K1 is yet another workhorse dive watch from the legendary Japanese brand. This one has attractive round indices with a large inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position. All have a lot of lume, and they look great next to the slightly reflective orange dial. 

The watch has an automatic Seiko movement with a GMT function. That means you can track a second time zone without doing calculations in your head. It also has a 24-hour rotating bezel and a Hardlex crystal. It also has an amazing jubilee-style bracelet for a little extra pizazz.

13. Citizen Automatic NJ0128-80

Citizen is another Japanese brand that offers solid watches at a reasonable price. This orange dial and bezel watch show why they’ve become so popular. It includes 100 meters of water resistance, a size of 43mm, a legible date window, and stainless steel construction. The screw down crown ensures the highest level of pressurization and water resistance. This one gives you a lot of orange bang for your buck.

14. Seiko Turtle “Nemo” SRPC95K1

Seiko Prospex watches were developed with ocean exploration in mind, and this watch will definitely make you want to explore. It has a day date function, navy and orange unidirectional dive bezel, applied indices, a screw-down crown, and 200 meters of water resistance.

It’s a special edition watch and incorporates the iconic and durable Seiko turtle case that is sturdy and solid. This watch’s nickname is “The Nemo”, and one look at the orange stunner will have you understand why.

15. Edox Skydiver Neptunian Orange

Edox is a brand that’s known for making well-built and durable watches. This one has a beautiful gradient orange dial and a well-finished dive bezel. The handset is well-designed and easy to read, and the rubber bracelet is flexible and comfortable.

It has a substantial size at 44mm, a mind-blowing 1000 meters of water resistance, and it’s as cool looking as all get out! If you want a slightly more substantial orange dial watch on your wrist, grab this one while it’s still available.

Conclusion

Choosing a watch is never a simple, straightforward task, especially for those with the collecting bug. But if you can take our advice, you’ll surely be on the right track. No matter which orange dial watch you choose, be sure that it meets or exceeds all of your most basic criteria. Above all, just enjoy whatever you choose. Wearing an orange dial watch should be a fun experience, so just don’t get yourself bogged down in all the juicy details.