Collection: Tan Zehua Watches

About Tan Zehua

Tan Zehua is one of the most accomplished names in contemporary Chinese independent watchmaking. His work combines decades of restoration experience with original movement development, traditional finishing, and a strong interest in escapement design. Rather than producing watches at industrial scale, Tan focuses on mechanical construction and handcrafted detail. Guilloché, enamel, long power reserves, and exposed movement architecture appear throughout the collection. His full membership in the AHCI since 2019 places his work firmly within the international independent-watchmaking community.

Tan Zehua History

Tan Zehua was born in Hunan, China, in 1953 and grew up surrounded by watches. His father was a respected local watch repairer, and Tan began an apprenticeship with him in 1966 at only 13 years old. He later worked in a watch factory for 14 years before opening his own watch shop in 1980.

Much of Tan's early career was devoted to repairing antique watches and clocks. That experience gave him a deep understanding of traditional mechanisms before he shifted his attention toward creating original watches.

Over the following decades, Tan developed his own movements and even designed manufacturing tools, including equipment for guilloché work and movement decoration. He has developed four distinct watch movements and researched new approaches to energy transmission and escapement design. His patented or patent-pending work includes a Di-axial escapement concept intended to improve performance.

Tan became a full member of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, or AHCI, in 2019. Today, his Rainbow and Melody watches combine traditional Chinese inspiration with original mechanical engineering and small-scale artisanal production.

Tan Zehua Collections

Tan Zehua's current catalog is centered around two primary families: Rainbow and Melody. Rainbow focuses on traditional hand-wound watchmaking, guilloché, and visible movement construction. Melody moves further into high-end decorative craftsmanship, long power reserves, enamel, and more refined movement architecture.

Tan Zehua Rainbow

Rainbow is the foundation of Tan Zehua's current watch collection. These watches use hand-wound movements developed around his own mechanical architecture and commonly feature guilloché dials, small seconds, blued hands, and exhibition casebacks.

The Rainbow 603 movement offers approximately 56 hours of power reserve. Different executions range from restrained classical dials to jade, skeletonized displays, and culturally inspired numeral treatments.

Tan Zehua Rainbow 603 Guilloché

Rainbow 603 Guilloché emphasizes traditional dial decoration. Current ETP versions include green, navy blue, salmon, and lighter blue tones.

The manually wound TZH Rainbow 603 movement provides about 56 hours of power reserve. The watch is particularly appealing to collectors who value traditional engine-turning and visible hand-finishing without moving into a highly complicated display.

Tan Zehua Rainbow No.1 Classic

Rainbow No.1 Classic offers a more restrained interpretation of the brand's design language. Its 40.5mm steel case surrounds a guilloché dial with either Roman-style markers or Chinese numerals.

Small seconds and blued hands give the watch a traditional character, while the exhibition back exposes the hand-wound Rainbow 603 movement. It is one of the most approachable ways to experience Tan's movement design.

Tan Zehua Rainbow Overturn

Rainbow Overturn makes the movement itself the dominant visual feature. Its architecture reverses the normal presentation so important mechanical components can be appreciated from the dial side.

Current 39mm ETP versions are available in several color treatments, including silver, green, and red. The Rainbow 604 hand-wound movement offers around 56 hours of power reserve.

Tan Zehua Rainbow King for Sword

The Rainbow King for Sword Jade Stone brings natural material into Tan's mechanical aesthetic. Its green jade-inspired dial treatment provides a very different visual character from the traditional guilloché versions.

The 40mm steel watch uses the manually wound Rainbow 605 movement. It suits collectors who want Chinese decorative influences combined with Tan's in-house mechanical approach.

Tan Zehua Melody

Melody sits above Rainbow in complexity and finishing. The family uses Tan's long-reserve TZH-Melody5201 architecture in several hand-wound models.

Parallel twin barrels provide approximately 130 hours of power reserve, while guilloché, small-seconds layouts, and enamel create a more elaborate appearance. The concept is inspired in part by traditional Chinese music and harmony.

Tan Zehua Melody for Horn Small Seconds

Melody for Horn Small Seconds uses a 39mm steel case and a refined small-seconds display. Current ETP versions come in blue and gold colorways.

The TZH-Melody5201 hand-wound movement uses parallel twin barrels to deliver approximately 130 hours of running time. This model is well suited to collectors who prefer understated dial architecture with impressive mechanical endurance beneath it.

Tan Zehua Melody Cloisonné Enamel

The Melody Cloisonné Enamel watches are among the most decorative Tan Zehua pieces currently available. ETP offers Red Dragon and Blue Dragon versions.

Grand Feu cloisonné enamel by KONCISE creates the elaborate dragon artwork, while the 39mm steel case houses the hand-wound Melody5201 movement. These models combine horology with traditional decorative arts and sit at the top of the current ETP price range.

Tan Zehua Melody Micro Rotor

The Melody Micro Rotor Guilloché introduces automatic winding to a collection otherwise dominated by manually wound watches. Its 39mm steel case, purple dial, and compact automatic winding architecture distinguish it from the rest of the current catalog.

For collectors who prefer mechanical convenience without giving up independent-watchmaking character, it is the most obvious Tan Zehua choice.

How Much Do Tan Zehua Watches Cost?

Tan Zehua watches sit firmly in the high-end independent-watchmaking category. Current Exquisite Timepieces prices begin at $14,800 for the Rainbow No.1 Classic and rise to $46,500 for the Melody Cloisonné Enamel Dragon models. Most Rainbow watches remain below $25,000, while Melody models generally occupy the $38,000 to $46,500 range.

Model	Starting Price	Unique Features
Rainbow No.1 Classic	$14,800	Guilloché dial; 56-hour hand-wound movement
Rainbow No.1 Classic Chinese Numerals	$14,800	Chinese numeral dial; blued hands
Rainbow 603 Guilloché Green	$16,500	Green guilloché dial; small seconds
Rainbow 603 Guilloché Navy Blue	$16,500	Deep-blue engine-turned dial
Rainbow 603 Guilloché Salmon	$16,500	Salmon-toned guilloché treatment
Rainbow 603 Guilloché Blue	$16,500	Ice-blue guilloché; 56-hour reserve
Rainbow King for Sword Jade Stone	$18,500	Green jade-inspired dial; Rainbow 605 movement
Rainbow Overturn	$24,000	Reversed movement architecture; skeletonized presentation
Rainbow Overturn Green	$24,000	Green variation of exposed movement design
Rainbow Overturn Red	$24,000	Gold-tone skeleton architecture; red-accented execution
Melody for Horn Small Seconds Blue	$38,000	130-hour twin-barrel movement; blue dial
Melody for Horn Small Seconds Gold	$38,000	Long power reserve; gold-toned dial
Melody Micro Rotor Guilloché	$39,000	Automatic micro-rotor architecture; purple dial
Melody Cloisonné Enamel Red Dragon	$46,500	Grand Feu cloisonné enamel; 130-hour reserve
Melody Cloisonné Enamel Blue Dragon	$46,500	Dragon enamel artwork; hand-wound twin barrels

ETP currently lists 14 manually wound Tan Zehua watches and one automatic model. All current ETP references use stainless-steel cases.

Best Selling Tan Zehua Watches

Tan Zehua does not publish model-by-model sales figures, so the watches below should be understood as four of the most representative current models rather than a verified sales ranking.

Tan Zehua Rainbow No.1 Classic

The Rainbow No.1 Classic is one of the clearest introductions to Tan's watchmaking. Its 40.5mm case, guilloché dial, small seconds, and blued hands balance traditional aesthetics with an original in-house movement. The manually wound Rainbow 603 provides approximately 56 hours of power reserve. At $14,800, it is also the entry point into the current ETP Tan Zehua catalog.

Tan Zehua Rainbow Overturn

The Rainbow Overturn is more mechanically expressive. Instead of hiding the movement behind a conventional dial, the watch places its architecture on display. The 39mm current-generation case makes the design more wearable than earlier larger versions. Its Rainbow 604 movement and skeletonized visual structure appeal to collectors who want mechanics to be part of the dial design.

Tan Zehua Melody for Horn Small Seconds

Melody for Horn combines a restrained dial with considerably more ambitious mechanics underneath. The hand-wound Melody5201 uses parallel twin barrels and offers around 130 hours of power reserve. At 39mm, the proportions remain relatively compact. Blue and gold variants let buyers choose between cooler and warmer interpretations of the same long-reserve mechanical concept.

Tan Zehua Melody Cloisonné Enamel Dragon

The Melody Enamel Dragon models bring decorative arts to the forefront. Their Grand Feu cloisonné enamel dials depict dragons in either red or blue themes. Beneath the artwork sits the same long-reserve Melody5201 hand-wound movement with parallel twin barrels. These watches suit collectors who value traditional enamel craft as much as movement architecture.

Tan Zehua Movements

Manual-wind movements dominate the Tan Zehua collection. Rainbow watches typically use the 603, 604, or related architectures with power reserves around 56 hours. Melody models extend autonomy dramatically through parallel twin barrels, with the Melody5201 providing approximately 130 hours of reserve. Tan's broader movement work also includes research into stable energy delivery and proprietary escapement systems.

Automatic movements are currently much less common. The Melody Micro Rotor Guilloché is the principal automatic model listed by ETP. A micro-rotor winding system provides self-winding convenience while allowing more of the movement to remain visible than with a conventional full-size rotor.

Tan Zehua does not currently focus on quartz watches.

Tan Zehua Watch Colors

Blue is one of the most common colors across the Tan Zehua catalog. It appears in Rainbow guilloché models, Melody Small Seconds watches, and decorative enamel executions. White, silver, and gray provide more traditional alternatives and allow the movement finishing or engine-turned dial patterns to stand out.

Green is another prominent color, particularly on the Rainbow 603 Guilloché and King for Sword Jade Stone. Salmon adds warmth to the Rainbow range.

More unusual choices include purple on the Melody Micro Rotor, gold on Melody Small Seconds, and vivid red on both Rainbow Overturn and the Red Dragon enamel model. These stronger colors are used selectively, giving the catalog variety without overwhelming its traditional watchmaking character.

Tan Zehua Watch Materials

Stainless steel is the primary case material in Tan Zehua's current ETP collection. It offers durability and provides a neutral frame for the detailed dials and movement finishing.

Sapphire crystals and exhibition casebacks are common, allowing the wearer to view Tan's movement architecture from both sides.

Dial materials are more varied. Guilloché metal dials appear throughout Rainbow and Melody. The King for Sword uses a jade-inspired green stone treatment, while the Melody Dragon watches feature Grand Feu cloisonné enamel produced by KONCISE. Leather straps dominate the collection.

Precious metals are not currently central to the ETP assortment, although certain Tan Zehua models have historically been offered in precious-metal case configurations through specialist retailers.

Tan Zehua Watch Types

Tan Zehua specializes in mechanical wristwatches rather than jewelry or lifestyle products. Most models are time-only watches displaying hours, minutes, and either central or small seconds.

Guilloché dress watches make up an important portion of the Rainbow collection. Skeletonized and reversed-movement watches such as Rainbow Overturn provide a more technical alternative.

Decorative-art watches appear in the Melody line through cloisonné enamel. Long-power-reserve models emphasize mechanical endurance, while the Melody Micro Rotor introduces automatic winding.

Across the collection, the emphasis remains on traditional mechanical watchmaking, movement construction, and artisanal dial techniques rather than sports complications or electronic functions.

Tan Zehua Partnerships & Brand Ambassadors

Tan Zehua operates very differently from a large commercial watch company. There is no widely documented celebrity ambassador program, and the watchmaker himself remains the central public figure associated with the brand.

His most important institutional relationship is with the AHCI, the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants. Tan became a full member in 2019 and continues to participate in independent-watchmaking exhibitions. He was among the watchmakers participating in the AHCI Masters of Horology exhibition in Geneva in April 2026.

Tan has also appeared through specialist platforms such as Watchmakers United, which presents independent watchmakers and currently features several Rainbow and Melody creations.

Craft collaborations also play a role. The Melody Enamel watches use Grand Feu cloisonné enamel work by KONCISE, combining Tan's mechanical watchmaking with specialist decorative craftsmanship.

Rather than celebrity endorsements, Tan's international reputation has been built through AHCI recognition, collectors, specialist retailers, watch exhibitions, and coverage focused on Chinese independent horology.

Buying Tan Zehua Watches

Tan Zehua watches are available through selected independent-watch specialists and authorized retailers. Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized Tan Zehua dealer and currently carries 15 models across the Rainbow and Melody collections.

ETP provides a three-year manufacturer warranty on current Tan Zehua watches, along with worldwide shipping, financing options, and fully insured delivery. Buyers can shop online or work directly with ETP's watch specialists for availability and model guidance.

Caring for Your Tan Zehua Watch

A Tan Zehua watch is a complex mechanical object and should receive regular care. Avoid heavy impacts, strong magnetic fields, extreme temperatures, and exposure to water beyond the watch's stated resistance. Many current references are rated to 30 meters, so they are better suited to light accidental splashes than swimming.

Manual-wind watches should be wound smoothly and without forcing the crown once resistance increases. Mechanical movements also require periodic professional servicing so lubrication, seals, and components remain in good condition.

Exquisite Timepieces offers professional watch servicing and repair support. Its team can assist with mechanical repairs, timekeeping issues, water-resistance testing, crystals, refinishing, and other maintenance needs, helping protect the watch's performance and appearance over long-term ownership.

Tan Zehua FAQ

Where are Tan Zehua watches made?

Tan Zehua is a Chinese independent watchmaker. His work is produced in China, with his AHCI profile listing his base in Shenzhen.

Who is the founder of Tan Zehua?

The brand is centered around independent watchmaker Tan Zehua, who was born in Hunan in 1953 and began learning watchmaking from his father in 1966.

Is Tan Zehua a luxury watch brand?

Yes. Tan Zehua operates within high-end independent horology. Its watches feature original mechanical movements, hand finishing, guilloché, enamel, small production volumes, and prices ranging into the tens of thousands of dollars.

Who makes Tan Zehua watches?

Tan Zehua develops his watches and movements through his independent watchmaking practice in China. He is particularly known for movement development, traditional finishing, specialized tools, and research into escapement and energy-delivery systems.

Find Your New Tan Zehua Watch with Exquisite Timepieces

Explore Tan Zehua watches through Exquisite Timepieces to compare the Rainbow and Melody collections in one place. The ETP online store currently features 15 references, ranging from classical Rainbow No.1 models to skeletonized Overturn watches, long-reserve Melody pieces, and elaborate cloisonné enamel Dragons.

Customers can also visit the Exquisite Timepieces boutique in Naples, Florida, for personal assistance from experienced watch specialists. ETP is an authorized Tan Zehua retailer, and current watches include a three-year manufacturer warranty. The retailer also provides free U.S. shipping on orders over $1,000, fully insured delivery, trade-in support, financing options, and after-sales servicing. For collectors entering Chinese independent watchmaking, ETP provides a direct way to compare and purchase Tan Zehua's current work.