Author: Michael Brown

Modern Hamilton watches are “Swiss Made”, with headquarters and production in Bienne, Switzerland, but the company was “Born in the U.S.A.” in Lancaster, PA, in 1892. For over 70 years, Hamilton was an American brand known for robust and accurate watches worn by the country’s railroad workers, aviators, soldiers, sailors, and even musicians and movie stars, including “The King of Rock and Roll”, Elvis Presley.

During that same period, a new genre of music emerged from African American communities in the Deep South—jazz. Characterized by improvisation, smooth sounds, and upbeat rhythms, jazz channeled the fresh, frenetic energy of a nation coming into its own in the 20^th Century and adapting to a leading role on the world stage.

Hamilton sought to capture the spirit of jazz with the launch of the Jazzmaster Lord Hamilton Chronograph in 1967. Since then, the Jazzmaster line has evolved into the company’s largest collection by fusing classic designs with modern materials and designs to produce contemporary timepieces that exude refinement and sophistication—not unlike jazz itself.

In this review, I’ll discuss 15 top Jazzmaster models and offer guidance on which one might best suit your needs and lifestyle.

About Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Hamilton is best known for its military watches (“Khaki” collections) and prolific product placement pieces in movies and television, such as the “Ventura” and the Khaki Field “Murph”. 

Hamilton created the Jazzmaster collection by mixing mid-century and contemporary design cues, and it has grown to over 175 references that feature modern aesthetics, materials, movements (automatic and quartz available), and complications. Jazzmaster models lean more toward refined dress models than sport watches. 

However, there are Jazzmaster chronographs, and even some of the dressier references have some tool watch touches such as numbered bezels and enhanced water resistance that create a sporty, “do everything” vibe that fits right in at the concert hall or clubhouse.

Which Hamilton Jazzmaster Watch is Right for You

If you’re looking for a Hamilton watch rugged enough for outdoor and water activities, the Jazzmaster family will have fewer options for you to choose from than the brand’s Khaki collections. 

But let’s say you’ve already got sport and tool watches covered and want to add something more unique and eye-catching for a formal occasion or night out on the town. If that’s the case, then you will discover a plethora of possibilities in the Jazzmaster collection. If you want a little of both, there are sportier Jazzmasters that fit everyday work and casual needs. 

With over 175 references in the collection, there is a Jazzmaster that will suit nearly every lifestyle at prices that are among the best in the entry-level luxury category.

The 15 Best Hamilton Jazzmaster Watches

Here are micro-reviews of 15 top Hamilton Jazzmaster watches that demonstrate the broad range of offerings in this collection:

Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (ref. H32475730)

The classic styling of a black dial and black leather strap make the Jazzmaster Auto a great choice for both dress and everyday office wear. The 40 mm diameter mixed polished and brushed finished stainless steel case fits a wide variety of wrists, and the 11mm thickness allows it to slide neatly beneath a shirt cuff. There are applied lumed silver color dagger indices and hour and minutes hands. 

The needle seconds hand reaches the silver seconds track and is lined with black indices that, fittingly, look like piano keys. There is a discrete date window at 6 ‘o’clock. Inside is the 80-hour power reserve Hamilton Caliber H-10 featuring an antimagnetic Nivachron™ hairspring and fine finishing touches showcased by a sapphire case back. 

The Jazzmaster Auto only has 50m of water resistance, but that should be more than enough to handle a splash of water every now and then. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono (ref. H36606130)

The Jazzmaster Performer Auto Chrono is a descendant of the “patriarch” Jazzmaster, the Lord Hamilton Chronograph. The 42 mm sapphire sandwich stainless steel case is mostly brushed, but polished accents include the elongated pushers, crown, and chamfered edges of the 22 mm width lugs. 

The case is paired with an all-brushed stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. The dial is black with a silver border minutes track and three subdials at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. Indices are applied and lumed, and the hours and minutes hands are sword-shaped with an arrowhead-tipped timings seconds hand. 

The watch is powered by the Hamilton Calibre H-31 movement, which has a 60-hour power reserve. The screw-down crown assists in providing a respectable 100-meter of water resistance. 

This is a chronometer with a bit of flair and would fit a wide variety of daily needs, including dress occasions—a dash of Daytona, reverse “Panda” vibe without the forever wait and exorbitant price. Retail Price: $2,245

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema (ref. H42605731)

The Jazzmaster Regulator Cinema salutes Hamilton’s regular appearance in movies with a statement piece that was gifted to presenters and honorees at the 10^th Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards in 2018. 

The 42 mm size stainless steel case is 12.8 mm thick, has mixed brushed and polished finishing, a lug width of 22 mm, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. It is paired with a leather deployant strap and a Hamilton-signed double pusher clasp. 

The dial has a black textured finish and two subdials designed to look and function like spoked movie reels, employing a rotating red arrow to indicate hours and seconds. There is a long traditional minutes hand. 

The words “Hamilton Automatic” are embedded in a strip of film in the upper right. All the dial elements are integrated and feature contrasting black, red, silver, white, and gray. On the back is a sapphire display caseback with a flowing ribbon of movie film. Hurray for Hollywood! Hurray for Hamilton! Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz (ref. H32612131)

The Jazzmaster Chrono Quartz is another great all-occasion watch for the person who wants both “set it and forget it” and elapsed timing capabilities. The case is 42 mm diameter, 12 mm thick stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and paired with a butterfly clasp, 22 mm width mixed finished stainless steel bracelet with integrated “H-shaped” central links that give a stylish overlapping effect. 

The dial is black with lumed dagger indices except for an Arabic numeral 12. The hour and minutes hands are lumed and Dauphine-style, and there is a needle timing seconds hand. Subdials are at 10, 2, and 6 and show timing 30 timing minutes, 1/10 seconds, and running seconds, respectively. 

There is a date complication at 4 o’clock. The pushers are elongated for comfort and easy use, and the crown is pull/push, not screw down, but water resistance is still 100m. The watch is powered by the ETA Caliber 251.74 quartz movement. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Performer Auto Rose Gold (ref. H36225770)

The Jazzmaster Performer performs true to the line’s mission of combining elegant styling with sporty touches and extended water resistance. This one is unique in that the 38mm diameter, 11.5mm thick, 18 mm lug width case is rose gold PVD coated stainless steel for an upscale look. It is mostly brushed but has a polished, chamfered edge on the lugs and a screw-down, signed crown. The bezel is black with white Arabic numerals. 

The dial is off-white with only a logo and minimal script, leaving it uncluttered and legible. The indices, Dauphine hour and minutes hands, and the needle seconds hand are all gold colored. A display caseback showcases the high-performing and beautifully finished Hamilton Calibre H-10 no-date, 80-hour power reserve, 21,600 bph movement. The high-quality leather perforated racing strap with pin buckle gives it an extra sport touch. Retail Price: $1,145 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition (ref. H38421130)

The Jazzmaster Thinline Special Edition is a quartz movement, movie-themed watch inspired by the movie The Wandering Earth II, directed by Frant Gwo and based on a novel by Chinese science fiction writer Liu Cixin. 

It has a jet-black matte finish dial with an impressed planetary design and lumed, red hour and minutes hand and non-lumped small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Within the small seconds subdial is the printed Hamilton name and logo. The streamlined stainless steel case is only 7.35 mm thick and 40 mm in diameter with 20 mm wide lugs. 

The closed caseback is engraved with the same planetary design as the dial and a “G” for the film’s director Gwo. It has a stainless steel butterfly clasp bracelet with mixed brushed and polished overlapping links. This quartz watch is definitely more a specialty piece than for everyday wear, and it might appeal to fans of both sci-fi and space exploration. Retail Price: $695 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Auto (ref. H32675540)

This Jazzmaster has an “open heart”, a cutout in the dial that allows a view of the watch’s mechanism. Such “open access” watches are usually associated with dress watches, so naturally the Jazzmaster collection has many of these. 

This reference features a gradient dial that transitions from almost black in the periphery to a “smoky blue” center. Open heart areas are located between 7 and 8 o’clock and from 11 to 4 o’clock. It has lumed dagger indices and hour and minutes hands and an arrowhead tip on the short, central end of the needle seconds hand. 

The case is 40mm stainless steel with mixed brushed and polished finishing and is only 11mm thick. There is a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and display caseback. The movement is the no-date Hamilton H-10 with an 80-hour power reserve. The strap is 18mm in width, brown cow leather, with a pin buckle clasp. With only 50 m of water resistance, this works better with a tux than a tee. Retail Price: $1,075 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III (ref. H32876550)

Calling someone “two-faced” isn’t normally a compliment, but in the case of the Jazzmaster Face 2 Face III, it is. This limited edition of 999 pieces is one of the most intriguing—and at 17.6 mm, probably also one of the thickest—chronographs out there. 

On one side of the 44 mm diameter, 22 mm lug width stainless steel case is a day-date at 3 o’clock chronograph, with a partial skeletonization showing the rotating date wheel. The flip side showcases the Hamilton H-41 movement through a display caseback and has both a tachymeter and pulsometer. 

One changes dial faces by rotating the entire case using two “hinges” at 9 and 3 o’clock. The main dial is black with subdials at 12, 9, and 6 with differing sizes, colors (the bottom subdial is blue) , and textures, creating a very unique and eye-pleasing aesthetic, an effect enhanced by the brown leather strap with blue stitching. Yes, it’s a “two-faced” and “complicated” watch—but in a good way. Retail Price: $2,995 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic Auto (ref. H32715131)

The Viewmatic Auto is a 44 mm case diameter dress watch but is only 10.4 mm thick. If you have a thicker wrist and 38 or 40 mm diameter watches look disproportional, then this one has to be on your short list. The dial is a do-it-all black and is very balanced and uncluttered, with simple “Hamilton” branding on the top half and “automatic” on the bottom, a minute track near the rehaut, and a small date window at 3 o’clock. 

The dagger shaped indices and hour and minutes hands have enough lume to get by, but remember, it’s more a dress watch, not a sports one. Sapphire is used on the front crystal and display caseback which provides a view of the 28,800 bph, 38 hour power reserve ETA 2824-2. It’s a nice choice for the person who glances down at their ample wrist and says, “I’m gonna need a bigger watch.” Retail Price: $895.00 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Thinline Auto (ref. H38525771)

Most Jazzmaster straps and bracelets can be swapped out easily thanks to Hamilton’s “EasyClick” quick-release system. The Jazzmaster Thinline Auto has a deep, burgundy red dial and black leather strap, making it a dressy piece for formal occasions but with enough pop of color to add some interest and flair. 

With a variety of available dial and strap colors and bracelet types, one could easily transform a Thinline Auto to work in a more casual or work setting as well. The stainless steel case measures in at 40mm, and true to its name, is a wafer thin 8.45 mm. 

A date window is discreetly dropped at the 6 o’clock position. Turn over the Thinline Auto, and a sapphire display back provides a view of the ETA Caliber 2892-A2 movement working away at 28,800 bph with a power reserve of 42 hours. Classy, contemporary—pure Jazzmaster. Retail Price: $945 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date Quartz (ref. H37551141)

The Jazzmaster Seaview Day Date has 100 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown and neatly bridges the gap between the line’s dressier models and Hamilton’s “outdoorsy” Khaki family. 

The sporty 42 mm diameter stainless steel case is 10.85 mm thick and has a unidirectional timing bezel marked with simple lines and no numerals. The dial and bezel are a matching deep sea blue. The crown is signed with a silver “H” against a blue background. The Dauphine hours and minutes hands and “arrowhead” indices have adequate lume but not as much as true dive watches. 

True to the name, there are day and date windows at 3 o’clock. The bracelet is 3-link with polished outer links and brushed in the middle, with a butterfly clasp. An ETA quartz movement provides, “set it and forget it” capability, making it both accurate and a commonsense choice for everyday wear and moderate aquatic activities. Retail Price: $745

Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz (ref. H32411735)

The Hamilton Jazzmaster Gent Quartz could easily qualify as the “little black dress” of the watch world—simple, easy to maintain, affordable, and can be dressed up or down for a wide variety of occasions. 

Its mixed finished, 38 mm diameter, stainless steel case will fit a large range of wrist sizes. Its 8 mm case thickness makes for a light wrist presence and easy slide beneath a cuff. The dial is all black, with a sunburst finish central portion transitioning to a matte finish “step off” and taper downward the periphery. The lumed indices are an interesting and visually pleasing mix of Arabic numerals and arrowheads. 

The minutes track is a mix of variable-length hash marks and Arabic numerals at 5-minute intervals. The only print on the dial is a simple “Hamilton”. There is a quadrangular date window at 3 o’clock. The strap width is 18 mm wide, black leather with white stitching, with a pin buckle. “Sometimes less is more.” Retail Price: $545

Hamilton Jazzmaster Regulator Auto (ref. H42615743)

From the simplicity of the Gent Quartz, we move to the asymmetrical complexity of the dressy, no-date Jazzmaster Regulator Auto, a “tri-dial” design that could be displayed at a museum of modern art. Only the minutes hand is a traditionally central one; the other two are subdials, an hours one in the upper left and a slightly smaller and overlapping seconds one in the lower right. 

With a 42 mm diameter stainless steel case and narrow integrated bezel, there’s plenty of room for all design elements to coexist peacefully. The dial color is a deep rich blue with varying finishes: matte in the main dial, and sunburst and concentric circles in the hour and seconds subdials, respectively. 

The 22m wide strap is black leather with a deployant clasp. As a dress watch, it naturally has a modest 50 meters of water resistance. The engine is the Hamilton Caliber H-12 showcased by a sapphire caseback. Retail Price: $1,275 

Hamilton Jazzmaster GMT Auto (ref. H32695731)

The Jazzmaster GMT Auto has both a jumping “office or caller” GMT hand as well as a city world time ring in the periphery that can be rotated with the extra crown at the 9:30 position. Unlike many sport GMTs, this piece provides similar capabilities in a more refined package consistent with the Jazzmaster family ethos. 

The 42 mm stainless steel case has a thickness of only 11.5 mm, svelte by GMT standards. The dial is black with a subtle sunburst finish that exhibits differing effects and hues in variable light. The red GMT hand provides a nice contrasting pop of red. 

The white 24-hour scale and black-and-white rotating city disc cram in a lot of information, but with sparse print and a discreet date window at 6, the dial still appears relatively uncluttered and legible. It is powered by the 2893-2 movement. Retail Price: $1,295 

Hamilton Jazzmaster Face 2 Face II (ref. H32866781)

The Face 2 Face Auto Chrono is a limited edition of 1,999 pieces that has a lot going on: oval 53 mm x 44 mm stainless steel case, 17.4 mm thickness, and by my count, six complications: day, date, chronograph, tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry. 

That means 3 overlapping subdials on the partially skeletonized main watch face, including a ginormous running seconds subdial that takes up almost half of the main dial. This has the same rotating case feature as the aforementioned Face 2 Face III, and on the other side is a sapphire display with a view of the Caliber H-41 movement as well as tachymetry, telemetry, and pulsometry with a sky blue measuring hand. 

There is a 24 mm wide black leather strap with the same sky blue stitching and a folding clasp. This one will garner queries from regular folks and watch enthusiasts alike; the real question is: Will you be able to explain them when asked? Retail Price: $3,995 .

Conclusion

The Jazzmaster ensemble is a reminder from Hamilton of a hip and improvisational, “cool daddy-o” side to their corporate personality that adds complexity and interest to their more famous core collections of military and movie watches. Jazz music might not be for everyone, but chances are there is at least one Hamilton Jazzmaster that is right for you. 

In the wide, wild world of hype, steady performers who show up, clock in, get the job done, then wake up and do it all over again are often overlooked.

If watches had feelings and could talk, the Omega Railmaster would probably sigh and say, “Yeah, tell me something I didn’t already know.”

The Omega Railmaster has been on the scene since 1957, reliably tracking time and looking good while doing it. Yet it’s gained so little fanfare that many watch enthusiasts aren’t even aware it exists.

Why? This review will aim to answer that question and demonstrate that “the little watch that could”, while overshadowed by its sexier Speedmaster and Seamaster siblings, still remains a prime option for those seeking a watch with both rich history and modern watchmaking technology.

About the Omega Railmaster

The Railmaster, technically the “Omega Seamaster Railmaster”, is an industrial tool watch with a stainless steel case and strong anti-magnetic protection, making it especially suitable for railway workers (hence the name), scientists, healthcare workers, and others who might be exposed to strong magnetic fields on the job which might disrupt the performance of a typical mechanical watch.

The Railmaster evolved over the years into contemporary references with enhanced anti-magnetic shielding, appealing modern interpretation of vintage design cues, and the powerful and precise timing of a METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement.

History of Omega Railmaster Watches

The Railmaster was born in 1957, the “middle child” of the “Master” triplets that included the iconic Speedmaster and Seamaster 300. Sometimes referred to as the “Holy Trinity” (as if the watch world needed yet another to confuse matters), the broad-arrow hour handed trio are pictured in early print ads with the Railmaster sandwiched between its siblings; ironic, considering the difficulty it would face competing for elbow room with watches that would end up on the wrists of James Bond and Apollo astronauts.

In the heyday of the mid-20th century “Atomic Age”, when the promise of a hover car in every garage and a jetpack on every back seemed close at hand, a robust 38mm diameter stainless steel outer case with a soft iron inner core (essentially, a “Faraday cage”) protecting the movement against up to 1,000 gauss of magnetism probably seemed like a must-have feature for the “watch of the future”. It was also a means to compete with the Rolex Milgauss and IWC Ingenieur, which provided similar safeguarding.

But by 1963, the Seamaster and Speedmaster were soaring in popularity, and the Railmaster had failed to capture the hearts and imaginations of the public, so Omega discontinued it. Today, the relatively rare CK2914 references from that six-year period are highly sought after in the vintage watch market.

In 2003, Omega reintroduced the Railmaster and moved the broad arrow to the minutes hand, and added a sapphire display caseback to showcase George Daniel’s co-axial escapement movement the brand started using in 1999. In 2008, Omega released the ginormous 49.2mm XXL reference, but their seemingly disjointed attempts to revitalize the Railmaster ultimately stalled, and the model was discontinued for a second time in 2012.

In 2017, Omega released limited edition Railmasters, which were part of a 60^th anniversary celebration of the 1957 “Masters” models, along with several Seamaster Heritage model Railmaster references characterized by a mix of vintage and modern styling elements. All 2017 novelties included improved 15,000 gauss anti-magnetic protection and a METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement.

Omega Railmaster: In-Depth Review

Let’s look at the exterior and under the hood of the Railmaster and gain further appreciation for a traditionally underrated but extraordinary watch.

Case Size and Material

Both the 60^th anniversary limited Railmasters and ongoing Seamaster Heritage model references have improved stainless steel cases with screw-down crowns that eliminate the need for an inner core and provide an amazing 15,000 gauss of anti-magnetic protection and a very respectable 150 meters/500 feet of water resistance.

The 1957 references have a 38mm diameter in keeping with the original CK2914, a thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug width of 48mm, and a lug width of 19mm. The Seamaster Heritage Railmaster references are 40mm in diameter and have a thickness of 12.7mm, a lug-to-lug width of 47mm, and a lug width of 20mm, which makes them quintessential “strap monsters”. Both diameters fit essentially true to size and are suitable for most wrists.

The cases have a round shape with similar design elements such as smooth integrated bezels, the familiar Omega twisted lugs, anti-reflective sapphire crystals, and solid casebacks with the “NAIAD LOCK” feature that ensures the engraved Omega hippocampus and print are vertically aligned.

There are some aesthetic differences between the various models in terms of polished versus brushed finishing, caseback designs, and crown shape that I’ll cover in later sections of the review.

Dials

The limited edition Railmaster references exude a 1957 vintage vibe with tropical black dials and white 3,6,9,12 positioned Arabic numerals and recessed, triangular hour indices filled with SuperLuminova the color of faux patina or “old radium” which glows green in the dark. 

The handset includes a lumed broad arrow hour hand and dagger minute hand with an un-lumed needle seconds hand. There are slight differences in dial print between the two throwback references I’ll discuss in a bit.

Several Heritage model Railmaster references retain the Arabic numeral positioning, triangular indices (not recessed, though), and faux patina lume, while the 2 blue denim dials use white indices and lume. All offer more modern styled stick hour and minute hands and a “lollipop” seconds hand. 

The minute indices are cleverly designed to appear like a railroad track (Woo woo!), and there is a central “crosshair” that segments the dial for additional vintage effect. The dial is printed with the Omega name and logo in the upper half, and a script “Railmaster” and printed “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” in the lower. 

Dial colors include black, gray, and blue “denim” with a vertically brushed finish. The Omega website currently shows only a black dial reference available for sale, but all colors are still obtainable through the Exquisite Timepieces website.

Movement

All modern Railmaster references share a powerful and accurate engine—the automatic METAS-certified Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806 . The movement has bi-directional winding and a rated accuracy of +5/0 seconds per day, a free-spring balance wheel and magnetic-resistant silicon balance spring, a frequency of 25,200 vibrations per hour, 35 jewels, and boasts a 55-hour power reserve.

Strap options

The stainless steel bracelets for the 1957 references are 19mm in lug width with a wide, fold over brushed clasp with a signed “Ω”. The chunky clasp has been panned by some reviewers for its relative lack of comfort. On the bright side, the clasp does have what Omega calls a “comfort setting”, which is an “on-the-fly” micro adjustment activated by a button on the inside of the clasp. The 3-link bracelet design features wide center links with a vertically brushed finish and narrower, polished outer links to match the polished lugs.

The Heritage Railmaster stainless steel bracelet is also a 3-link design featuring wide center links with narrower outside links but is completely brushed to complement the all brushed finish of the case and lugs. 

Another difference is the narrower butterfly clasp (no micro-adjustment) which is signed with both the Omega name and logo. All modern Railmasters feature screw-in links with half links for easier and more precise sizing. Some Heritage Railmaster references also come with herringbone black fabric pin buckle and NATO-style blue denim and brown leather straps.

Most Popular Omega Railmaster Models

Here are 5 noteworthy and popular Omega Railmaster models:

Omega Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40mm on Bracelet (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

This all-stainless steel Heritage Railmaster has a sporty, all-brushed finish case and bracelet. Still, it creates an almost “faux-polished” look due to the brushed bracelet and varying directions of brush lines on the case sides, bezel, facets, and lugs. 

The vertically brushed finish of the black dial seems to emit different shades of black, gray, or dark blue depending on the light and rotation of the watch. The guilloché facets on the medallion caseback provides a contrasting backdrop for the Omega hippocampus and logo. And let’s not forget the easy-to-grasp, “cupcake” shaped, screw-down crown which opens with a satisfying “Snap!”

Omega Seamaster Railmaster 1957 (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002)

This 60^th Anniversary 1957 reference is part of a 3,557 piece limited edition and is slightly different from the one in the 557 piece “Trilogy” boxed set. It features an old school broad arrow hour hand, case with mixed polished and brushed finishes that flash impressively when the watch is rotated in the light, and a polished caseback with the engraved limited edition number of the watch. 

A cool vintage detail is the naiad “Mercedes”-like symbol, which originally signified enhanced water resistance, inside the Omega logo on the crown. It’s not shown on the Omega website, but Exquisite Timepieces has you covered.

Omega Railmaster Blue Dial Denim Co-Axial Master Chronometer NATO strap (ref. 220.12.40.20.03.001)

This playful and colorful Heritage collection Railmaster reference evokes visions of the blue denim-clad railroad workers who needed an anti-magnetic watch like this back in the day. The vertically brushed dial finish also provides varying shades of blue when rotated in the light. 

White indices and lume are used instead of faux patina. It comes with a matching denim-blue colored fabric NATO strap. The keepers on the strap, as well as the seconds hand and script “Railmaster” signature on the dial, are a bronze color, providing a refreshing pop of contrast.

Omega Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40mm on NATO strap (ref. 220.12.40.20.06.001)

Similar in style to the previous model, this Railmaster model has a brown leather instead of denim-blue cloth NATO strap. In addition, the dial is vertically brushed with streaks of variable gray and has faux patina lumed hands and triangular indices, and script “Railmaster” printed on the dial, along with contrasting black “railroad” track minute indices, 3,6,9,12-positioned Arabic numerals, “Omega” name/logo, and “Co-Axial Master Chronometer” branding. The case is also available with a steel bracelet (ref. 220.10.40.20.06.001)

Omega Seamaster Railmaster Trilogy Limited Edition (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.003)

The 1957 “Trilogy” reference was sold along with sibling 1957 Seamaster 300 and Speedmaster models in a limited edition boxed set of 557 pieces and is nearly identical to the ref. 220.10.38.20.01.002. The “Trilogy” sets are available on the secondary market but hard to find and often exceed $20,000. 

What’s different between the two 1957 references? This model has the word “Trilogy” engraved on the polished caseback and printed near the top of the tropical black dial, plus numerals beneath the dial “Trilogy” that indicate which numbered piece it is in the series.

Should You Buy An Omega Seamaster Railmaster?

You don’t have to be a railroad worker or scientist to appreciate the experience of owning a Railmaster. Despite its relative anonymity, it’s a performance beast with a simple but handsome face that you should definitely check out if a blend of rich heritage and modern specs is what you’re after.

Omega Railmaster Pricing & Availability

Once again, Omega appears to be phasing out this interesting watch, but new models ranging from $5,400 to $7,500 are still available from some dealers, including 7 references on the Exquisite Timepieces website. Secondary market prices of many models are in the $4,500 and under range.

Conclusion

Like many “parents”, Omega has sometimes had a hard time explaining and supporting a child that lags behind its siblings. As a result, the Railmaster, despite high performing specs and elegant but simple good looks, has toiled in the shadows and beneath the radar of many watch enthusiasts.

Still, the Railmaster is a vital piece of Omega and horological history, and with it potentially on the chopping block again, now may be the time to show your support and “adopt” a very deserving “middle child” of a timepiece that just might end up being among the favorites you ever own.

Unless you were living on, say, the moon in March 2022, you probably heard the pronouncement, “People of Earth, the MoonSwatch has landed.”

After tantalizing teasers leading up to launch day, the Swatch Group and family brand Omega collaborated to pull off one of the strongest power flexes in horological history. They launched an 11-member lineup of colorful quartz wristwatches fashioned after the iconic Omega Speedmaster Professional, which, just in case you haven’t heard the news, was “THE FIRST WATCH WORN ON THE MOON” per the manual wind medallion caseback.

The resulting tsunami inundated not only the watch world but broader culture as well. Thousands who might not have otherwise given analog watches the time of day suddenly camped out overnight and waited in lines stretching several city blocks for a “moonshot” chance at picking up one of the cleverly conceived chronographs that aim to inspire dreams of “Missions to”—or in the case of Earth, “on”—the most recognizable celestial bodies in our Solar System.

In this review, I will cover MoonSwatch mania and the (many!) models while providing a few of my own reflections on owning—and enjoying—two MoonSwatches (Missions to Pluto and Earth) plus a “real” Speedmaster Moonwatch, the manual wind Caliber 3861.

About the Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch Watches

There are enough aliases of the “official” name—the Omega X Swatch Bioceramic MoonSwatch—to fill an F.B.I “Most Wanted Poster”: Omega MoonSwatch, Swatch MoonSwatch, Omega Swatch Moonwatch, Omega X Swatch Speedmaster, etc. Thankfully, the cultural hive mind seems to have settled on simply “MoonSwatch”.

So, what exactly is it: an inexpensive Speedmaster cutting against Omega’s upscale grain, a Swatch continuing the brand’s decades-old tradition of providing fashion-forward and affordable watches, or some “love child” of the two? The answer is pretty fuzzy, leaving it up to individual wearers to define the watch and the experience it creates in their own terms.

Regardless of confusion over its name or reason for being, the MoonSwatch’s core design elements shout, “Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch!” It is a chronograph with 2 pushers and 3 subdials whose case shape and dimensions are almost identical to “the real thing”.

But instead of stainless steel, precious metal, all-ceramic, or titanium, the MoonSwatch case is composed of what Swatch has termed “Bioceramic”, an extremely lightweight plastic-ceramic hybrid that makes for a comfortable wearing experience and plays well with the technicolors necessary to depict a wide range of variegated celestial bodies.

Swatch includes heavily branded, NATO-style VELCRO® straps similar to the ones Apollo astronauts used back in the day to color compliment the cases and dials.

History of Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch Watches

The Swatch brand was founded by a group of Swiss watch executives and engineers in the early 1980s who believed that a line of affordable and accessible analog plastic watches could counter the widespread popularity of digital watches and help regain market share that had been lost to Japanese companies like Seiko and Citizen during the “Quartz Crisis”. 

The team envisioned inexpensive battery-powered watches with colorful and fun designs so affordable they could be disposable or purchased in multiples for a variety of occasions. While many recognize the name as a contraction of “Swiss watch”, “S” also denotes “second” watch, reinforcing the idea of reasonable pricing and replaceability. 

Swatch opened their first store in Zurich in 1983 with twelve original models and soon gained widespread popularity. In 1985, new CEO Nicolas Hayek, Sr., and a group of investors took over the brand and created a holding company called Société de Microélectronique et d’Horlogerie, aka SMH. 

Swatch continued to pump out new eye-popping models and open stores worldwide. The name was so synonymous with fun and financial success that Hayek eventually renamed SMH the Swatch Group Ltd. in 1998.

Over the years, Swatch Group acquired other more longstanding luxury watch companies such as Omega, Longines, Tissot, Breguet, Blancpain, et al., a recipe for success that enabled all involved to weather the “Quartz Crisis” storm. 

The Swatch brand also became synonymous with creative collaborations with artists, fashion designers, and large museums such as the Louvre in Paris and the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art (MOMA) in New York City that boosted their bold and colorful catalog.

However, Swatch teaming up with another family member, like luxury manufacturer Omega, caught the watch world off guard. Declining Swatch sales figures, the Covid pandemic and the postponement of the 2020 Olympics (Omega is the” Official Timekeeper” and counts on the worldwide exposure), and a strategic aim of generating interest in the “real Moonwatch” among a younger demographic who might someday have the disposable income to purchase one may have all factored into the bold decision. 

Swatch Group saw record profits in 2023 and increased interest in the more expensive Omega Speedmaster, although there has been a drop in sales so far in 2024, primarily due to decreased demand for luxury goods in Asian markets. 

In March 2022, the MoonSwatches were available for sale only in selected brick-and-mortar stores (the initial promise of “online sales soon” was quickly withdrawn). 

This unleashed a worldwide “drop culture” frenzy, including long lines of sometimes rowdy crowds, instant scarcity of an “accessible” Swatch “intended for the masses”, and flippers demanding insane prices in exchange for instant gratification on the secondary market. 

Currently, the original eleven MoonSwatches are relatively more available for those who can visit one of the selected Swatch stores, and secondary market prices are much closer to MSRP for many models.

However, Swatch continues to launch “new missions”. The original eleven models that dropped in 2022 doubled in 2023 with rapid-fire releases of limited edition “Mission to Moonshine™ Gold” models. Two “Mission to Moonphase” (aka “Snoopy”) models took off in early 2024, and three more “Mission to Earth” pieces appeared in June 2024. 

As of this writing, a limited edition “Mission to the Super Blue Moonphase” is set to blast off for sale August 1-19, 2024 (only after 5:00 pm . . .) at select Swatch stores in honor of that month’s “blue moon” (the collective groan you just heard is that of Swatch store sales associates worldwide).

When it comes to MoonSwatches, you have to count up, not down. That makes 28 references in 2.5 years. “Brand dilution” and “burnout?” Swatch executives simply smile and reply, “Here, hold my beer.” Like the adorable and highly replicating alien Tribbles in the original Star Trek TV series, MoonSwatches just keep on coming.

Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch: An In-Depth Review

Don’t worry—I’m not reviewing all 28 (and counting) MoonSwatch models. But I will cover the essentials that apply to all so you can decide if the MoonSwatch is the rocket you want to hitch a ride on. Let’s light this candle!

Case Sizes and Materials

MoonSwatch design language closely follows that of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch itself. The diameter is 42mm, lug-to-lug distance 47.3mm, and thickness 13.2mm, including the domed acrylic crystal, which is embedded centrally with a small, translucent “S”, just like the “Ω” in the Speedmaster Pro. The lugs are “lyre” shaped, and their width is a strap-friendly 20mm.

The case shape is asymmetrical, thicker on the right side to accommodate the pushers. Paired with the round, 39.8mm bezel, the MoonSwatch has a smaller-than-expected look and fit for its 42mm diameter. 

There is a tachymeter scale with a matte finish on the bezel (“Dot over 90” for added authenticity!), and a very clever and colorful image of each celestial body on the battery cover on the back of the case. The crown contains a molded “Ω X S” stamp and the pushers are slightly further apart than those of the Omega Moonwatch to accommodate the quartz movement.

Swatch’s coinage of the name “Bioceramic” for the case material has been one of the biggest sources of confusion about the collection. The company describes the material to be 2/3 zirconia ceramic and 1/3 biosourced plastic derived from castor seed oil, leading some to wonder if it’s cheap ceramic or glorified plastic. 

As the owner of two MoonSwatches, my take is that it’s more like “plastic-plus”, lightweight for sure, but with a sturdy and premium feel. The case’s matte finish seems to “hold” the color well; I have one tiny chip on the bezel edge of my Mission to Pluto (“honest wear” only, no defect), and I can affirm the color is no mere veneer.

The MoonSwatch’s broad color palette includes vibrant yellow, bright red, light pink, and a pale, “Tiffany blue”, as well as more subdued and traditional hues such as black, gray, brown, and beige. There were reports of “color bleed” on wearers’ wrists from the battery cover images early on, but Swatch apparently fixed the problem in subsequent production batches.

Dials

Swatch takes a little more artistic license with MoonSwatch dials, but the general layout is still unmistakably based on its iconic predecessor. There are three subdials, but instead of the 3,6,9 positioning of the Speedy Pro, the MoonSwatch locates them at 2,6,10 to accommodate the quartz movement. 

Active seconds are displayed at 6, chronograph timing minutes at 10 (both with markings in 5 unit increments), and 1/10 timing seconds at 2. Subdials are round and inset from the dial face, adding depth, and added artwork on some models, such as Saturn and Jupiter, provide extra aesthetic effect.

Indices and markings are essentially the same as the Omega Moonwatch aside from color, including 1/3 second lines, even though the chronograph timing seconds hand ticks once per second. 

There are two dots at 12, just like the original. Branding on the dial helpfully reminds you of the watch’s “mixed heritage” and forms a reverse triangle to the subdials, which adds balance to the appearance. A circular line in the peripheral dial gives the illusion of the Speedy Pro’s “step down” to the seconds track even though the MoonSwatch dial is flat.

The handsets of the main dial and subdials have the same “stick” shapes and “spear & diamond” timing seconds of the Moonwatch, with the exception of Mission to Mars, which gives users a couple of playful red spaceships at 10 and 2. 

The hands are lit with Super-LumiNova®, but still, keep your expectations low. Just like the Speedy Pro, there’s enough lume brightness to tell the time but not enough to impress your friends or replace your cell phone flashlight.

Dial colors differ by model and are part of a scheme that includes the case and strap. Whether the colors complement or compete with each other will depend on your tastes and preferences.

Movement

The movement is a quartz chronograph with hours, minutes, active seconds, 60 timing minutes, and seconds, plus 1/10 seconds—we know that much even though Swatch doesn’t outright identify it. However, most believe the most likely movement is an ETA G10.212 without a date complication.

As such, it is more accurate than a mechanical Caliber 3861, even with the latter’s +5 seconds/day Master Chronometer certification. We just don’t know exactly how much more precise, given the movement’s cloaked identity. Caliber Corner deduces it to be +/- 10 seconds per year. My own very unofficial experience with my two MoonSwatches has been a very tight +1-2 seconds/month.

I learned something cool about the movement that I didn’t know until I did the research for this review—the MoonSwatch has a split timer that functions as a sort of “rattrapante-lite” without an additional chronograph timing seconds hand. 

When timing an event, if you want a split or lap time, you can press the bottom pusher to get minutes, seconds, and 1/10 seconds. Press the bottom pusher again, and the timing seconds hand “catches up” to the elapsed time since the start. Press the top pusher when the event is over, and you have your total elapsed time up to 59:59.90. Now that’s a feature that even the Apollo astronauts didn’t have!

Straps

Each MoonSwatch comes with a heavily branded, color-coordinated, nylon NATO-style VELCRO® strap similar to the ones Apollo astronauts used to secure their Speedy Pros on the outside of their space suit sleeves. 

For the mere earthbound rest of us, the strap has the advantage of precise fitting and “on the fly” adjustment if your wrist swells during the day. From my personal experience, the strap is a little stiff at first, but it becomes more flexible with time. Also, the strap can get a little sweaty underneath in hot and humid weather.

Fortunately, the lug width is 20mm, so the MoonSwatch fits the definition of a “strap monster”. I enjoy wearing my Mission to Earth on a traditional double pass blue and green fabric NATO strap and my Mission to Pluto on a curved, integrated gray rubber strap. There is a plethora of aftermarket options available if you want a break from the OEM strap.

Most Popular Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch Models

Facts: 1) All MoonSwatches appeal to some; 2) Some MoonSwatches appeal to more than others. Here are five of the most popular.

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moon

What can you say about the MoonSwatch, which is named after and most closely aligned with the “OG”? Mission to the Moon is the one that everyone wants to get their hands on and may be willing to camp all night for. 

True to its black and steel gray roots, the Mission to the Moon has “The Right Stuff” to produce a 1960s Apollo vibe. Even the hour indices have a hint of faux patina to amplify the retro groove. This model is so old-school NASA, I bet Buzz Aldrin wears one on each wrist.

Omega X Swatch Mission to Mars

With its bright red case, white dial and strap, and red retro rockets, Mission to Mars has the most eye-catching contrast if that’s your jam. Speedy enthusiasts immediately recognized the nod to the Omega Speedmaster Alaska Project, a quirky and innovative limited-edition release of 2008 which fused a standard Moonwatch with a ginormous red “heat shield” designed to fend off the extreme temperatures of the “Dark side of the Moon” (Earth’s natural satellite, not the Pink Floyd album). If you want someone to spot your watch and strike up a conversation, this one is a go-to.

Omega X Swatch Mission to Uranus

Despite, or possibly because of, the highly likely Beavis and Butt-Head bathroom humor, Mission to Uranus has been one of the most sought-after MoonSwatches. Of course, it may also have something to do with the fact that this pale-blue case, white strap tribute to the Greek god of the sky features one of the most popular colors of recent years in watch circles. You can call it whatever you want—pale, sky, powder, “Tiffany”, or “Carolina”—this shade of blue is hot, and Mission to Uranus is full of it.

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moon MoonShine™ Gold

In 2023, MoonSwatch Mania came dangerously close to “jumping the shark” and being eaten alive. From March through December, Swatch fed the hype machine with ten extremely limited edition Mission to the Moon Moonshine™ Gold models (for sale one day only in each month) which all had a coating of Omega’s proprietary yellow MoonShine™ Gold alloy on the chronograph timing seconds hand. 

Monthly tweaks to the gold veneer included the addition of secret numbers and messages, pink highlights, flowers, snowflakes, Swiss flags, lollipops, barley grain, and strawberries. And that’s not even counting the Mission to Neptune Moonshine™ Gold edition that was released in August. Many asked: Why? Had MoonSwatch, like Icarus, flown too close to the sun?

Omega X Swatch Mission to the Moonphase

The answer came in early 2024. Swatch released both the monochromatic white and black Mission to the Moonphase models featuring a moon phase calendar complication replacing the 1/10 seconds dial at 2, and Snoopy, everyone’s favorite canine-naut, reclining on a rotating lunar disc. 

Just like the Apollo 13 crew, Swatch saved the ship. Suddenly, Mission to the Moonphase became the new “must-have” MoonSwatch. There were more coming, of course, but let’s just close our eyes and enjoy Snoopy for a moment, shall we?

Should You Buy an Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch?

Some watch enthusiasts continue to sniff at MoonSwatches and refuse to buy a plastic-ceramic “toy” homage to the iconic Speedy Pro. But I own two MoonSwatches, plus the most current Omega Moonwatch manual-wind Caliber 3861, and I enjoy them all for what they are. 

On a trip to New York City in 2023, I managed several trips to the Times Square Swatch Store and scored 5 total, and I enjoyed giving my thirtysomething watch enthusiast sons each one just like I used to bring them home Legos and Playmobil sets from work trips. Take it from me: if you want to live a little and have some fun, go with the flow and queue up for a MoonSwatch when the opportunity arises.

Omega X MoonSwatch Pricing and Availability

The original eleven models and the Mission to the Moon Moonshine™ Gold editions cost $270 retail and the Mission to the MoonPhase models $310. Swatch continues to sell new models only in select Swatch stores. 

Secondary market prices for most new models have come down considerably and are currently much closer to retail and even lower for preowned pieces in many cases. However, there is still a substantial premium on harder-to-obtain pieces like Mission to the Moon and MoonShine™ Gold models.

Conclusion

Current CEO Nick Hayek, Jr. has followed in his father’s space boot-sized footsteps and aimed high, pointing the Swatch Group toward the stars. The Blancpain X Swatch Fifty Fathoms releases of 2023-24 are surely a sign of more collaborations to come. Love it or hate it, one has to admit the MoonSwatch was “one giant leap for ‘watchkind,’” and the universe will never be the same again.