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The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” is arguably one of the Japanese watchmaker’s most popular and iconic models. It’s a watch that embodies the elegance and craftsmanship that Grand Seiko is renowned for, featuring a charming dial design that mimics the beauty of freshly fallen snow. However, due to its high craftsmanship and limited availability, the Grand Seiko Snowflake is not as easily accessible as watch enthusiasts would like. 

And yet, a watch that bears a striking resemblance to the essence of the Snowflake, yet one that doesn’t carry its prestigious nickname, is the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269. 

This model showcases an equally refined aesthetic, enhanced functionality, and a snow-inspired dial texture, making it an appealing alternative for those seeking the sophistication of the Grand Seiko Snowflake without the scarcity associated with it.

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT Collection

For as long as I’ve been following the work of Grand Seiko, nature has played a significant role in their designs. There’s something rather beautiful about the thought of Grand Seiko designers simply looking out the windows of the company’s manufacturing facilities and drawing inspiration from the weather and flora found right outside their windows. 

The Grand Seiko Snowflake has always epitomized the brand’s love of nature, beautifully mirroring the purity of freshly fallen snow in the mountains surrounding the Grand Seiko factory in Shizukuishi. 

Other popular models worthy of mention are the Grand Seiko White Birch Shirakaba SLGH005, which has a breathtaking dial inspired by the texture and color of the birch trees found outside their studio, and the Grand Seiko Spring Drive “Omiwatari” SBGY007, which mimics the texture of Lake Susa when its water freezes during the winter. 

It’s clear that their connection to nature has become a signature aspect of the brand, leading to the creation of numerous models inspired by the textures and colors found in the natural world. 

More recently, Grand Seiko introduced the Four Seasons Collection, which again cements their commitment to nature-inspired design. The non-limited series draws inspiration from the different colors of Japan’s changing seasons. 

Whereas we simply measure the seasons in spring, summer, autumn, and winter, in Japanese culture, they divide the year into 24 smaller segments known as sekki, with each of the watches in the Four Seasons collection representing one of these sekki. 

The Grand Seiko Four Seasons collection was first introduced in 2019 and featured a quartet of time-and-date-only models with colorful and textured dials inspired by “Taisetsu”, the deep snow of winter, “Shunbun”, the vernal equinox, “Rikka”, early summer and “Shubun”, the autumnal equinox. 

Shortly after, Grand Seiko expanded the series further by adding more dial colors and additional GMT complication into this mix. And so, in 2021, the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection was born. 

Once again, the watches in this collection represent four different sekki. The line-up includes the Hi-Beat 36000 powered “Shunbun” SBGJ251 and “Shosho SBGJ249, and two Spring Drive-powered watches called “Kanro” SBGE271 & “Toji” SBGE269. 

It’s the latter that I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing this week, and with a dial inspired by the winter solstice, I have forgiven myself for originally thinking this was a Grand Seiko Snowflake when I first opened the box.

A Crisp-As-Snow Steel Case

Like all the models in the Grand Seiko Four Seasons GMT collection, the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is slightly based on the original 62GS case from the 1960s. Much like the original, we have a soft, curved silhouette with a gently sloping bezel and refined lugs that beautifully highlight the watch’s polished surfaces. 

But as you’ll have probably noticed, the dimensions of this watch are a little more modern, coming in at 40.2mm wide and with a thickness of 14mm. It’s a well-sized watch that will suit most wrists. The lug-to-lug is 48.5mm, and if you count the end links, I measured it sitting at 51.2mm across. 

As for finishing, no expense is spared as usual from Grand Seiko. Much of the case is polished using a technique the Japanese watch brand calls Zaratsu polishing. It involves holding the stainless steel surface against a spinning tin plate using just the right amount of pressure and angle to create these beautiful mirror-like finishes. 

It’s a technique that takes about three years to learn, ensuring that only the most skilled artisans, known as Takumi, are entrusted with this meticulous process. It’s also a process typically reserved for small movement parts, so seeing it on a macro scale across an entire case is truly exceptional. Getting a fully hand-finished watch at this price is not a common sight. 

A few smaller portions of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s case are brushed, creating a visual of light play and contrasts. Other than its finishing, the most visually noticeable part of the case is the sapphire crystal glass. 

It’s one that is dramatically domed, adding to the watch’s 1960s-inspired heritage. It’s also this that adds to the larger 14mm thickness. Despite giving off the appearance of vintage plexiglass, the material is super scratch-resistant and treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface for legibility. Ultimately, you get the period feel without any of the compromises that come with real vintage watches. 

Completing the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s retro personality is the signed crown placed at 3 o’clock. Not quite an onion crown, but still relatively prominent in size and boasting a slightly domed and fully knurled exterior, it adds to the watch’s vintage charm while ensuring functionality. This screw-in crown enhances the watch’s water resistance, providing an impressive 100 meters of protection against the elements.

A Winter Solstice Dial

Easily, my favorite part of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is the dial. Nicknamed “Toji” after one of Japan’s twenty-four sekki that marks the winter solstice, the hammered silvered white texture has a beautiful, almost random grain inspired by the texture and color of snow as it shines in the sunlight of the winter solstice. 

It’s one of those dials you really need to see in person to appreciate, and no matter how hard I try, it’s impossible for me to find the words to describe its beauty accurately. 

The texture is larger and deeper than those seen on the popular Grand Seiko Snowflake watches but still has the same ethereal quality that instantly catches your eye. I love it, and I urge anyone reading this remotely tempted by its finish to go see this at your local authorized Grand Seiko retailer. 

For the hands and markers, Grand Seiko has once again elected hand-finishing for all the hardware. The dauphine-styled hour and minute hands are beautifully sharp with a combination of brushed and polished finishing, much like each hour marker, which is faceted with polished faces and brushed exteriors.

In contrast, the GMT hand is finished in a wonderful shade of rose gold to evoke the last rays of an evening sun. It’s a beautiful pop of color against an otherwise monochromatic dial and adds a touch of warmth and elegance to the overall aesthetic. We have the same color marking the GMT text at 6 o’clock, further tying together the dial’s design elements. 

The dial is also home to a 72-hour power reserve indicator, but Grand Seiko has ingeniously chosen to print it onto the dial’s textured surface rather than opting for a sunken scale. This decision preserves the watch’s clean lines and enhances the visual depth, allowing the textured background to play a prominent role in the overall design. 

The result is a more concise and subtle look that seamlessly integrates all the features without overwhelming the eye. It also brings the power reserve indicator in line with the printed black railway track found around the dial’s circumference. 

Another clever addition to the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch’s dial is the 24-hour scale. 

Compared to the SBGJ249 and SBGJ251 models in the same collection, the 24-hour markers have been moved to the minute track to help the dial breathe a bit more and not feel cluttered. We’re also treated to a box-shaped date window positioned at 3 o’clock and the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock.

A Spring Drive Movement

Alongside a completely hand-finished case and dial, we also have a movement that’s been built, tuned, and – when necessary – serviced entirely in-house by Grand Seiko. The movement in question is the Caliber 9R66, an automatic winding Spring Drive movement that represents one of Grand Seiko’s most innovative achievements. 

The Spring Drive combines the precision of a quartz movement with the mechanical beauty of a traditional automatic movement. Unlike conventional mechanical movements, which rely on a balance wheel and escapement, the Spring Drive caliber uses a unique “tri-synchro regulator” system. 

This regulates the movement by using a mainspring for power, just like a mechanical watch, but instead of an escapement, it uses an electromagnetic brake that works with a quartz crystal for precise timekeeping. 

This allows for incredible accuracy, with a deviation of only +/-1 seconds per day or +/- 15 seconds per month. It also delivers the signature smooth, gliding seconds hand that is famously a hallmark of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive watches. 

The Caliber 9R66 also features a GMT complication, allowing for the tracking of a second timezone, and boasts a 72-hour power reserve. There’s also a hacking seconds function, 30 jewels, and manual winding capability should you wish to see the power reserve indicator operate before your eyes. 

Turning the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch around, and you can admire the Spring Drive movement for yourself, including its handsomely striped oscillating rotor and bridges.

A Hybrid Bracelet

Completing the exterior of the Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch is a classic full stainless steel bracelet. Its design is almost like a hybrid of a dress and sports bracelet. It has the beautiful, rolled flanks and the polished intermediates of a dress bracelet but then a sturdy three-row link architecture similarly styled to the Rolex Oyster bracelet. 

The surface of each link is brushed in the same direction as the bracelet falls, leading down towards a single-fold deployment clasp with twin trigger release. 

Sadly, the bracelet doesn’t come with any micro-adjustment, but we are given two half-links on either side to get a near-perfect fit. There’s also screw links to make adjustments easier and drilled lugs, so should you wish to swap out the strap for something different, that won’t be too much of a task. That said, Grand Seiko has elected a lug width of 19mm, which is a little awkward for finding replacement watch bands.

On-Wrist Experience 

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is easily one of those “throw-on-and-go” watches. Its dimensions make it very wearable across a wide variety of wrist sizes. I’d recommend it for anyone with wrists as small as six inches and as large as eight inches. 

But please, if you don’t fall within that range, don’t let it put you off. If you have smaller wrists but love the oversized look, or if you have larger wrists and appreciate a more vintage vibe, this watch could still work beautifully for you. Plus, you can always swap out the metal bracelet for a leather strap to tone down its presence and make it feel a bit more understated. 

It is a thick watch, measuring 14mm tall, primarily due to the domed sapphire crystal. Unfortunately, this means it may not slide easily under the cuff of a dress shirt unless the cuffs are loose. Instead, it gives off more of a daily-beater or sports watch vibe, though it can still be worn for dressier occasions, thanks to that brilliant textured dial.

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 watch retails brand new for $6,000. We always recommend purchasing your Grand Seiko watches through one of the brand’s authorized retailers, like Exquisite Timepieces. 

This way, you can sport your new timepiece knowing it’s the real deal and it’s arrived with all the official paperwork and warranty. You can also find this model on the second-hand market for around $4,500 if you’re working with a smaller budget. 

Thankfully, unlike so many of the Grand Seiko Snowflake watches, this winter-inspired release is a non-limited edition, and there’s plenty of availability at the time of writing this! But keep in mind this is a watch that has been out for three years now, so if it’s one you’ve fallen in love with, I recommend snapping it up as soon as you can, just in case Grand Seiko suddenly decides to discontinue it.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Elegance GMT “Toji” SBGE269 is hands down one of the most beautiful Grand Seiko watches I’ve had the pleasure of trying on recently. If you’re someone who’s been captivated by the magic of the Grand Seiko Snowflake but hasn’t quite found the budget or the right model for you, this could be the perfect watch. The crisp white textured dial is absolutely breathtaking and really stands out as a centerpiece.

As I mentioned earlier, I strongly urge anyone who’s even somewhat interested to go see this watch in person. The way the light plays off the dial, the rich texture, and those subtle hand-finished elements are something you truly have to experience up close. I guarantee you’ll get lost in its details just as much as I did!

Back in 2020, traveling, either with or without a GMT watch strapped to your wrist, was beginning to feel like a distant memory for many of us. 

But in the years following the pandemic, the demand for GMT watches and the desire for a holiday returned with full force, putting brands like Grand Seiko right at the forefront of that need. Why, you ask? Because Grand Seiko does a superb GMT watch. That’s why today we’ll be looking at the reference SBGJ251 – the “Shunbun”.

What Is a GMT Watch?

Maybe you spend a lot of your working week at a desk organizing overseas conference calls and confusing greetings of “Good Morning” with “Good Evening” because, let’s face it, keeping track of multiple time zones across the world is not easy. 

Or maybe you travel frequently on business? Either way, there’s a good chance you’ll have pondered buying a watch for travel to assist with your organizational skills. Maybe you own several already, and you’re looking to expand your collection with another? 

Either way, travel watches are considered a necessity by many luxury watch enthusiasts since they’re multifunctional, and they look so stylish. 

There are different layouts and names used for travel watches, but the most common is the GMT. The name “GMT” derives from Greenwich Mean Time – the local mean time at Greenwich, London, by which other countries in the world use as a zero reference point to determine whether they are “X” amount of hours ahead or “X” amount of hours behind. 

This style of watch features a fourth hour hand that relays the time in a different location of the world. More often than not, this special hand is highlighted in a vibrant color or tipped with a triangular motif, enabling you to quickly distinguish it when looking at home time versus current time. 

Many GMT watches also feature a bi-color (or two-tone) bezel to help you differentiate between daytime and night-time hours in the 24-hour format, but not all, as we’ll soon see in the design of the Grand Seiko “Shunbun”.

In a nutshell, GMT watches are a very practical complication, owing to their immense popularity across the watch-collecting community. People love the distinctive style of these travel watches and the value they bring to the wrist on a functional level. 

The magic of reading a watch like the SBGJ251 is that you can read the time in two different time zones. You can check the time where you currently are and compare it to where you were at a glance. In all the brand’s main collections, you can find a GMT watch. 

Some examples include the sporty SBGJ237, with a striking blue and white 24-hour bezel, or the SBGJ021, with a deep rusty red dial and a peach-colored travel hand. Case in point, GMT watches come in many varieties, styles, and colors.   

The History of the SBGJ251 

To understand why the reference SBGJ251 is one of the most popular GMT watches to collect from Grand Seiko’s ever-evolving range, we need to look at the origins of the collection. Back in 2019, the watchmaker released four different but equally stunning designs, forming the entrancing Four Seasons watch collection, with dials inspired by nature itself. 

Anyone already familiar with Grand Seiko will know that the Japanese watchmaker has based many of its most elegant timepieces on elements taken from the natural surroundings of its prestigious Shinshu Watch Studio. 

In particular, the models from the Four Seasons collection focus on the changing seasons and the transitional periods between those months. The Grand Seiko SBGJ251 became part of this story.

The Four Seasons Collection

The Four Seasons collection first came into existence with the launch of those four very important models. Each one took direct inspiration from the four seasons of the year: Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter. 

For some background to this review, those models include the “Shunbun”, highlighted by the gentle pink-colored blossoms that fall from the cherry blossom tree into the water on a Spring morning. 

Also, the “Rikka” timepiece reflects the rich green shades of the luscious land across Japan when ripples of grass dance in the warm Summer winds. For Autumn, Grand Seiko chose the “Shubun” timepiece – a dial inspired by the dimming light of dusk and the arrival of a moonlit sky in The Fall during the autumnal equinox. The Grand Seiko “Taisetsu” was a timepiece that captivated its wearer with a dial evoking the silences of fallen, glistening slowly in Winter.

These models, released in 2019, are based on the 62GS design, but one of the most alluring features of those first four designs is that they follow the Japanese concept of “Sekki”. 

Rather than viewing the phases of the year in four set blocks, the models within the Four Seasons collection detail the 24 individual phases of the year – 6 phases for each quarter. 

The Elegance DNA

The Four Seasons models belong to a much larger design concept, Grand Seiko’s Elegance collection. While the Sports collection from Grand Seiko offers slightly more aggressive models (with sharp angles that capture the ever-popular steel sports watch aesthetic) and the Heritage collection honors some important historical landmarks for Grand Seiko – the Elegance collection is somewhat different. In this series, you can find classic dress watch styles, like the SBGJ251, that are perfect for formal occasions and special events.

That said, the Elegance line is also one of the most overlooked of Grand Seiko’s categories. For reasons unknown, they sometimes fly under the radar. Thanks to the level of finishing in one of these Grand Seiko watches and the superior materials used in every design, they also make for great daily beaters!  

Here, we arrive at the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” SBGJ251. A daily-wearer with dress watch aesthetics that is also a GMT, inspired by an important part of the year – the Spring Equinox.

My Review of the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 “Shunbun”

The Grand Seiko SBGJ251 “Shunbun” was released in 2021 and, in my opinion, perfectly sums up the spirit and elegance of the Four Seasons collection, taking influences from nature and re-writing the notion of the modern dress watch. The model is refined and classic but with a very functional advantage in that it combines a GMT complication. Here’s a more detailed look at the watch after some time spent handling it. 

The Case 

One thing I really like about this model is how Grand Seiko opts for a boxed sapphire crystal glass. What that does is it allows the hands to sit further into the crystal cavity and creates the impression, from some angles, that the hands are almost floating. This is a more costly finish than a standard glass fitting. 

While standard glass fronts may measure a thickness of around 2-3mm, a boxed sapphire arrangement will actually take up around double that much in thickness. Grand Seiko experts will require the skill of a CNC machine to shave and shape the crystal. Understandably, all of this adds to the manufacturing costs of a Grand Seiko, but simultaneously, it goes some way to achieving a unique and sought-after design.

One drawback of sapphire crystal compared to acrylic crystal, however, is that it doesn’t boast the same level of clarity. Like many luxury watch manufacturers, Grand Seiko remedies this by adding layers of anti-reflective technology to the surface of the glass, promising a clear and crisp view of the SBGJ251 model’s mesmerizing green dial. 

Now, let’s move on to the proportions of the watch. The stainless steel case of the SBGJ251 “Shunbun” measures a diameter of 39.5mm, making for a considerably compact size for those with small-ish wrists. The 30-meter water-resistant case has an unusually thick caseback, even for Grand Seiko standards, measuring 14.1mm thickness. 

I’ll talk a little more about how that impacts the wrists a little later on. But overall, this is a classically inspired, albeit modern watch, which Grand Seiko experts manage to balance perfectly. On the one hand, the shape and layout of the dial are traditional-looking, but on the other, those Zaratsu polished finishes evoke an unequivocally modern presence. 

Zaratsu polishing is a case finish that, in my opinion, supersedes a lot of the more common executions you see on timepieces of a similar price. Quite simply, the finishing is next level. This complicated and sophisticated polishing process is responsible for the razor-sharp, angular polishes that you see across the surface of this case. 

They elevate the design to a resolutely dressy style while at the same time reflecting and playing with light in a rather unique way. The technique takes its name from an old European machine called Sallaz and helps define all the flat, sharp edges of the case, not to mention adding a distortion-free mirror finish to the design. This is no easy skill to learn, often requiring a craftsman to undergo several years of extensive training before the art is properly mastered.   

Lastly, by flipping the watch over to reveal its underside, a sapphire exhibition feature reveals a beautifully manufactured and decorated movement. The in-house arranged Calibre 9S86 performs behind this window, showing off its fine finishes, including a customized Grand Seiko rotor. 

The Dial 

One thing I love about GMT watches is that you often get a twist of color in the design. Sometimes, it’s in the form of a bi-color bezel, like I mentioned earlier. Sometimes color is simply offered in the form of the GMT hand or the subtle lettering of the display. 

But in the case of the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” watch, the color of the dial is an entrancing deep green hue – an organic, almost-earthy green tone that fills the dial right up to the very perimeters. The color, once again, nods to the brand’s affinity to nature.

The location where Grand Seiko’s prestigious Shinshu Watch Studio is located is surrounded by layers of rich green foliage and mountainous landscapes, some mountains of which reach right up to 3,190 meters high, so you can imagine the blanket of green that bursts into abundant color during Springtime. 

Since the Hotaka mountain range that forms the backdrop to the watchmaking studio was formed as a result of volcanic activity, the peaks and slopes are sheer and abstract. The winds, moisture, and natural weather conditions have shaped and carved the structures that form these sharp ridges. 

They are exposed to harsh natural elements and the transitional seasons as they roll out across the land. For Grand Seiko, the turning of the seasons is an important source of inspiration for its many watches. The SBGJ251 puts considerable focus on the arrival of the Spring equinox, when Sakura blossoms decorate the land and cherry blossoms begin to bloom. 

It’s impossible to discuss the design of the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 and its functional, highly legible qualities without touching on the luscious green blooms of springtime. The watch represents the time in an indulgent pine green color. Interestingly, the matte finish of the dial looks very similar to the texture that Grand Seiko specialists used for the Snowflake watch. 

At the 12, 9, and 3 o’clock positions, the hour locations are represented in double batons. The faceted edges of the remaining markers take up residence around the rest of the dial, catching the light majestically under the watch’s protective sapphire crystal glass front, as do the dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands. 

The applied Grand Seiko logo and brand name can be seen at the top of the dial in a brushed silver color. It is these smaller details that give the SBGJ251 such character. The GMT scale proves particularly legible, too, including the 24-hour track in silver and the matching triangular markers that go with it. 

Suffice it to say, this is no plain green dial. The fine structure of the display changes nuances in the light depending on the angle from which you view it. Given the fact that a love for horology is often multi-faceted, the same can be said for features like this dial. The details begin to unravel themselves the more you admire them. 

The Movement 

Inside the case of the SBGJ251 lies the automatic Calibre 9S86 – a Hi-Beat movement that contains a total of 37 jewels and performs at a rate of 36,600 vibrations per hour. The Hi-Beat takes its name from the fact that it performs an impressive 10 beats per second. 

The movement traces its heritage back to the year 1968 when Grand Seiko released the first self-winding watch with this 10-beat technology. What set a new standard for the Hi-Beat movement, however, was the launch of the Calibre 9S85 almost forty years later. It promised a new level of durability, precision, and reliability from which the 9S86 took over. 

The PS86 Calibre also stores a power reserve of 55 hours once fully wound and promises an accuracy of –3 and +5 seconds per day. The beauty of this movement is that when you want to change the time zone, you can do so without jeopardizing the accuracy of the time. To simply set the time, pull the crown out to one notch and adjust the hour hand. 

The seconds hand will continue to perform without interruption. The Hi-Beat maintains exceptional precision, both in the essence of timekeeping and in the form of the added hour 24-hour hand.

The Strap 

Pairing any travel watch with a stainless steel bracelet will give it a classic and understated look, and that’s certainly what Grand Seiko was going for when designing this model. The 5-link design has a matte finish on the outer links, while brushed finishes have been applied to the central links.

The simple foldable clasp, manufactured in-house by Grand Seiko, has pushers but, unfortunately, no micro-adjustment system. Maybe it would have been a nice feature for GS to incorporate. Still, it’s not a deal breaker. 

How It Wears

Putting the Grand Seiko “Shunbun” reference SBGJ251 on the wrist for the first time will give you an instant feeling of refinement and luxury. After all, these are qualities that the Japanese brand became renowned for during the 1960s. 

Even so, as refined as it may be, this watch is perfect for wearing every day of the week, thanks to its robust, solid-feeling stainless steel bracelet. It’s also dressy enough to pair with formal attire or something smarter in the evening.

I already outlined the dimensions of the watch earlier, but one element that may take a little time to get used to is the back of the case. The combination of the bulbous back and the kettlebell bulge at the side of the case does make for thicker wear on the wrist. 

This is an interesting concept since Grand Seiko watches tend to be geared towards slimmer, ergonomically-fitting timepieces. In some ways, the bulge of the case and underside nods to a touch of nostalgia, capturing a feel of sporty dress watches from yesteryear.

The GMT feature is a super handy complication that, even at a glance, will provide you instantly with the same at home and in your current location. The main sword-shaped hands and the baton indexes are clear and ultra-legible, enhancing the watch’s wearability factor. At the same time, the GMT hand pointing to the silver 24-hour track is offered up willingly, thanks to the peach-colored tones of the arrow-tipped hand.

The lugs of the SBGJ251 have a downward curvature that turns into the bracelet as they hug the shape of the wrist. I also like the mixture of polished and brushed finishes on the links and the GS-engraved deposit clasp, complete with a milled finish.

The Price

The Grand Seiko “Shunbun” watch reference SBGJ251 comprises a mechanical engine that beats at 36,600 oscillations per hour. That alone is no mean feat, but when you think about the whole package; the level of case finishing, the striking green dial, and the well-executed components of the display – these compounding features reflect a very reasonable price tag of $6,800 on authorized dealers like Exquisite Timepieces.

For $6k and under, you can drop on a pretty neat watch, don’t get me wrong. There are hundreds of options out there. Some that spring to mind are the Omega Seamaster, the Breitling Navitimer, and the Baume et Mercier Clifton, for example. (All these revered names have specialized in the classic sports watch.) 

But when it comes to an in-house movement and additional complications like the GMT, and even those signature Zaratsu polished elements – Grand Seiko, for me, wins hands down.

Final Thoughts

My final thoughts on the Grand Seiko SBGJ251 are that this is a unique design that sits somewhere in between sporty and dressy. You can take this watch from boardroom to plane without ever having to worry whether it will clash with anything you’re wearing. 

The deep muted green tones of the dial, nature-inspired as they may be, are also universally appealing and have been combined with some of Grand Seiko’s finest cutting-edge timekeeping technology to create a perfect package of functionality, accuracy, and reliability.

Delivering a strong look that’s hard to ignore, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 is visually powerful, to say the least. The watch is a part of GS’s Sport Collection, and its contrasting features add to its unique profile.

This isn’t a luxury timepiece you’ll be able to hide very well. In my opinion, it isn’t made for casual wear. The GS SBGA481 has a certain aura about it that lets you know it’s meant for the right occasions. 

SBGA481 is inspired by the many strengths that lions are known for, and Grand Seiko visualized these sentiments in the SBGA481. If you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind Grand Seiko, the details in this review will easily strike your interest.

The History of the Tokyo Lion

Also referred to as the Tokyo Lion, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 was made available back in August of 2023. However, the case shape and dial of this watch were introduced in 2019 and have become a fan favorite ever since. I usually don’t gravitate toward larger watches, but the style of the SBGA481 is too pretty to pass up.

This infamous lion-inspired dial and case was originally only seen in GS limited editions. In the brand’s modern era, it’s now seen as a staple of the watchmaker’s Sport Collection. Of course, the lion emblem goes all the way back to 1960, as the brand took inspiration from the animal for their logo.

Taking from the precision and durability of lions, Grand Seiko found a way to translate their bold existence into a quality timepiece. You might also want to know that this watch isn’t a reissue and offers a brand-new twist to the case and dial of choice. 

The SBGA481 is a new kid on the block compared to many others, but it has already cemented itself as something special. I find myself getting lost in the choices Grand Seiko offers, but the SBGA481 is one that looks and feels like it’s worth the wait.

A Case You Won’t Forget

What makes the SBGA481 give off such a strong look is that every detail of the watch brings individual strength to the whole of the design. Looking at the case, the bezel takes inspiration from a GS diver’s watch yet remains stationary. The case as a whole delivers a sharp and angular design that isn’t common with most GS engineering.

For me, this is a big selling point, as the SBGA481 exudes a sharp look that is more than fitting for a professional setting. You get the reliability of high-intensity titanium, offering unmatched durability and lightweight on the wrist.

The dimensions of the case command a significant presence as it comes with a 44.5mm diameter, 50mm lug-to-lug, and 14.3mm thickness. For those who prefer a more sleek, form-fitting design, the SBGA481 might not be the best choice. Even for my own skinny wrists, I had to make some minor adjustments for this watch to even look remotely fitting.

I wouldn’t say I have the average wrist size, but the bold look of this case doesn’t look overbearing from my point of view. When you combine features such as the angular design, hairline brushing, and Zaratsu polish, every angle heightens the sharp aesthetic of the watch.

The dual-curved sapphire crystal protects the more finite details of the dial. This was a smart design choice that made me love the SBGA481 even more. Taking this approach with the crystal provides a non-protruding surface so as not to make the watch look too bulky. Moreover, I’m always praying for an open case back when trying a new Grand Seiko, and they didn’t disappoint.

The SBGA481 features an open caseback, where you can see the 9R65 Spring Drive movement in action. This also comes with a classic-style screw-down crown. With smart design choices for wearability, the case promises a low center of gravity that helps ensure it rests comfortably on the wrist. If you take a closer look, you’ll notice a unique approach with the shape of the lugs on this watch. 

Inspired by a lion’s claw, the lugs come with a sharper look, something that isn’t common with most GS watches. As usual, the Grand Seiko beauty of this watch can speak for itself. I’m a huge fan of the mirror-polishing effect the watch has from every angle. It shines without blinding you while delivering a bold presence in every setting.

The Lion Mane Inspired Dial

While each person is bound to have their favorite detail about this watch, most people are on the same page about the dial. It has a beautifully textured, almost opaline colorway. The textured brush strokes may seem random, but their aim is to resemble the flowing look of a lion’s mane. More interestingly, this dial design is reminiscent of the SBGA413 “Shunbun” but clearly brings something unique to the market.

There are many reasons that keep me coming back to Grand Seiko, and their efforts in symbolism are a big one. Carrying an undoubtedly bold aesthetic, the SBGA481 embodies the inner strength that lions are known for.

I have to say that the bolder hour and minute hands aren’t my favorite choice, but it makes sense considering the surrounding look of the watch. At least you have no issue with legibility, and the sharp angles of the hands among the Lumibrite make it easy to tell the time, regardless of the hands’ bulky design.

You can also find a touch of Lumibrite across the hour markers, as well as the bezel, making it easy to check the time in low light. I’m very appreciative of the anti-reflective coating of the sapphire crystal. This is a big factor in what helps the dial seem so clear and bright.

With bold hour markers and clearly visible minute track, you won’t ever have trouble navigating the larger hands. At a glance, they may seem grandiose, but the surrounding design elements make it all easy to track accurately. Although the dial colorway stands out on its own, its contrast with the titanium and varying finishes make it pop even more.

I find myself staring at the dial from different angles just to see the detail in every brush stroke. Something you may not immediately notice is the red accents surrounding the dial. Don’t let online images fool you, as these red accents are much more muted in person. I understand why you might prefer a more open-face dial, but I personally love all of the bells and whistles.

On a few final notes, the SBGA481 dial also provides a date window at 3 o’clock, as well as a 72-hour power reserve indicator. Even the power reserve offers some contrasting design choices that give the dial some added depth.

Smooth Movements and Overall Functionality

The component that powers the visual movement of this timepiece is the Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement. Not only does this movement promise a smooth and precise second-hand movement, but it’s also built with a tri-synchro regulator. What this does is combine electrical, mechanical, and electromagnetic power for regulation.

Although I’m a fan of a nice ticking watch, the seamlessness of this type of movement is something to marvel at. With the 9R65, you get an average precision of ±15 seconds per month, and the high torque of the movement is what makes the bulkier hands possible.

This may not have much to do with mechanical aspects, but I love the look of the movement through the watch case back. You get a glimpse of the jewels that are built-in, offering a contrasting vibrance that’s a sight to see.

Another part of this movement that amazes me is that it’s crafted from 200 individual components in-house, by hand. I can only imagine how much engineering and patience this took, and it’s a niche detail that made me want to look into the SBGA481 further.

Keep in mind that this movement isn’t necessarily new to Grand Seiko, as it has been a part of their watchmaking for over 20 years. Nearly 30 years of research went into this movement, with 600 prototypes being a part of the process. Being powered solely by a mainspring is another key detail that drew me to this watch. 

The nuances in the design of this movement make the watch more of a talking piece when it comes up in conversation. Once I got an in-depth look at the engineering of this watch, I just had to keep learning more. The more you discover, the more beautiful this watch becomes.

Grand Seiko’s Matching Quality in the SBGA481 Strap

First and foremost, Grand Seiko won me over by opting for a titanium bracelet. I’ve never been a fan of heavy watches. They can tilt on the wrist and just feel bothersome on the day-to-day. Regardless of the bulky nature of the SBGA481, the strap helps it maintain a cozy yet lightweight feel.

It features a combination of mainly brushed surfaces with polished details, further accenting the angular shape of the case, in my opinion. The clasp comes with the classic GS logo, and it’s a twin-trigger foldover clasp. You get three micro-adjustment holes, which is pretty convenient for most people. Even though it isn’t a major adjustment, it could be just enough to not need a different strap entirely.

Interestingly, the watch comes with a diver’s extension, considering it doesn’t match the lack of functionality in the bezel. The 23mm lug width isn’t the most popular size for strap changes, but the design compensates with the micro-adjustments. Keep in mind that you’ll size the bracelet with push pins, which is a common trait of titanium Grand Seiko watches.

The sizing of the bracelet doesn’t make strap changes impossible, but I’d say the band should be left as is. It’s the perfect match for the case and offers a surprising level of comfort, making all-day wear pretty easy. 

I can see that GS did their best to blend the aesthetics of the case and strap, but it’s a little off-putting to me. From an overhead view, the case still looks a little too bulky for the strap, but that’s just my point of view. It still looks great, nonetheless, but it’s difficult to overlook the perceived gaps in sizing between the strap width and case size.

The On-Wrist Experience With the SBGA481

What’s said about the impressive beauty of this watch’s design is true. Most people wouldn’t argue with that, but I do agree with varying sentiments. While it stands as an excellent sports watch, I’d say it comes with a niche set of use cases. For the most part, your options would be stuck to sports or professional attire. Even then, the colorway of the dial may be a bit too flashy for the office.

That’s just a personal standpoint, and I can also see why someone would disagree with those points. Nevertheless, the relatively lightweight feel and angular design are what make this watch stand out to me. The dial might catch your eye at first, but for me, it’s the contrasting mirror-like angles of the case.

Although there’s plenty to show off about this watch, it isn’t one I’d take out on a daily basis. It’s more than comfortable for daily wear, but I’d rather put this one on for special occasions. Regardless of my naturally skinny wrists, the bold diameter of this watch will make it look sizable to anyone.

The optimal wrist size for this watch is around 7.5”, but the micro-adjustments make it easy for surrounding sizings as well. From a dimensions standpoint, the watch is clearly well-balanced. However, as I stated earlier, I feel the angular design somewhat clashes with the strap for me. 

This is likely the case because I’m personally not familiar with wearing such an angular case, but that’s just a design note that comes to mind. At the end of the day, I’d say the SBGA481 is well worth the investment, but of course, that’s another talking point on its own.

SBGA481 Pricing and Availability

At retail, you’ll find the Grand Seiko available for $10,400. That might sting for some, but it’s an understandable asking price considering the components and engineering. This is on top of the design details, the inspiration behind the case and dial, and many other details. On the other hand, if you’re looking for pre-owned pricing, that’s roughly found within the range of $7,400 and $9,000.

Of course, pricing is bound to vary over time due to many factors, but cost isn’t the only consideration when it comes to this timepiece. Where you source your authentic Grand Seiko watches is an equally important topic to discuss.

To keep it simple, you want to choose a retailer that has historical experience with the brand and the industry as a whole. In short, this is the core of how Exquisite Timepieces operates, where you can find an SBGA481 of your own. You won’t have to worry about quality, reliability, or customer service when working alongside Exquisite Timepieces.

Final Thoughts

At a glance, the Grand Seiko SBGA481 looks a bit large, but don’t judge until you wrap it around your wrist. You’ll be surprised at how good it looks on different wrist sizes without looking too bulky. It’s meant to offer a bold stance, and I’d say it’s a stellar choice for anyone who’s a fan of that sporty, business-casual look.

If you’d like to learn more about the SBGA481 and other Grand Seiko watches, spend some time with Exquisite Timepieces to help guide your decision-making.

Whether you’ve visited the beautiful country of Japan or not, we’re sure there are certain aspects of the culture you are familiar with more than others. Whether it’s the pretty pink cherry blossoms, their colorful and action-packed anime, or the intricate art of origami, it’s clear that Japan’s cultural treasures have captivated hearts around the world. Another aspect of Japanese culture that is well known worldwide is the creation of the katana, a weapon that symbolizes not only strength but also the rich artistry of Japan. 

The Japanese katana is known for its exceptional craftsmanship, taking skilled artisans years to perfect the techniques involved in its creation. 

Each blade is carefully forged from high-carbon steel, with multiple layers folded together to create a resilient yet flexible weapon. The process involves heating, hammering, and tempering, ensuring that every katana possesses a unique combination of beauty and functionality. The curvature of the blade, the precision of the edge, and the intricate designs on the tsuba (guard) all reflect a commitment to artistry and perfection. 

Just as the katana embodies the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship, so does Grand Seiko’s beautiful collection of watches. And, as you’ve probably guessed, today’s model up for review, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491, is inspired by this legendary weapon with a dial designed to echo the raw materials and distinctive patterns used in the creation of the katana.

Three Katana-Inspired U.S Exclusives 

Just last year, during the summer of 2023, Japanese watchmaker Grand Seiko unveiled three new models exclusive to the US market. The trio were all inspired by the elements used in the creation of the katana: earth, fire, water, and air. The process begins with iron sand sourced from the Earth which is then heated in a furnace known as the tatara, using both fire and air. 

As the iron sand melts, it transforms into a type of Japanese steel called tamahagane. From this steel, two distinct forms emerge: kawagane, the high-carbon steel used for the blade’s sharp outer edge, and shingane, the resilient inner core that provides strength. 

The individual metal shards are meticulously stacked and then heated until they glow in vibrant shades of yellow, orange, and red. This glowing mass is forged, folded, and drenched in water, resulting in the inner core being welded securely within the hardened outer shell. The creation of a katana is a rigorous and precise art form, culminating in a sword that is both beautifully balanced and exceptionally functional.

As you’d expect, Grand Seiko has crafted the three katana-inspired Heritage Spring Drive models with the same attention to detail. Their cases are Zaratsu polished, while the dials are meticulously engraved to honor different parts of a katana’s creation. 

The first of the trio is reference SBGA493, which has a bold, deep red dial and yellow gold-colored accents inspired by the heated blade during the forging process. The unique, ultra-deep sunray pattern evokes the sparks that radiate from the hammer every time it strikes the blade. 

The other two models are reference SBGA489 and SBGA491. These offer a slightly different dial design with a super fine-grained finish. Model SBGA489 is colored in a deep gray and is said to be inspired by kawagane, the high-carbon steel used to create the katana. Meanwhile, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491, the very watch I’m reviewing today, has a beautiful deep green dial inspired by shingane, the inner core of the legendary blade.

A 44GS Case

I’m not sure it would feel quite right for Grand Seiko to release a range of katana-inspired watches that weren’t Zaratsu polished and in the 44GS case architecture. 

Thankfully, the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch is both, with a sharp angled case executed according to their Grammar of Design philosophy inspired by the 44GS watch released in 1967. It’s a design philosophy that places emphasis on simplicity, precision, and beauty, with the case offering beautiful flat surfaces and crisp angles that give the SBGA491 watch a dressy, refined look. 

Every surface looks and feels perfectly produced, and that’s partly due to the high levels of detail that are placed on the finishing – just as the katana requires tremendous skill and detail to create. The majority of the stainless steel surface is polished using a technique Grand Seiko calls Zaratsu polishing. 

This intricate process is renowned for creating a mirror-like finish that enhances the beauty of the metal. Mastering Zaratsu polishing can take up to three years, as artisans must learn to hold the metal against a spinning tin plate at the perfect angle and pressure. It’s a method that not only highlights the intricate details of each piece but ensures a flawless surface that reflects light beautifully. 

The case of the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch also has some satinized surfaces placed along the case sides and lug flanks to create a wonderful contrast, once again adding to the sharp angles and beautiful profile. 

As for dimensions, this release is one that will suit almost any wrist size. It measures to 40mm wide and 12.5mm tall, allowing it to slide effortlessly under the cuff of a dress shirt. There’s also a very reasonable lug-to-lug of 46.2mm. 

You can expect all the modern adornments to complete the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch, including domed sapphire crystal on top, treated to its own layer of anti-reflective coating for exceptional visibility, and a screw down crown positioned at 3 o’clock for a 100-meter water resistance. 

The latter is neatly embossed with the GS logo in relief and knurled for easy manipulation. Turning the timepiece over reveals another layer of sapphire crystal glass for a wonderful view of the beautifully finished Spring Drive movement housed inside.

A Unique Grained Dial 

I’ve been incredibly lucky to witness and wear many Grand Seiko dials over my career, and after having unboxed the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 watch myself, I have to say this might be one of the most unique and beautiful Grand Seiko dials I have ever seen. 

Yes, I know this is a bold statement, but bear with me. It’s once again one of those dials that is not done justice in the press images. The prominent textured surface has so much more visual complexity up close, and the contrast between the deep olive green and the gold elements is stunning. 

According to Grand Seiko, the dial here is inspired by the resilience and strength of shingane. The unique, deeply-grained texture supposedly evokes the texture in the variations of tamahagane, the “jewel” steel from which traditional katana swords are fashioned. 

Now I have absolutely no experience crafting katana swords, so I am unable to confirm or deny whether the dial reflects what Grand Seiko suggests accurately. But I don’t really care. The dial is absolutely beautiful and delivers a contrast of colors and light play on the wrist that is rare to see anywhere else – especially at this price point. 

Like the case, much of the hardware placed on the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch’s dial is Zaratsu polished. The baton hour markers are beautifully faceted, with polished edges and a brushed center to create a striking contrast that catches the light at various angles. In the same way, the sharp sword-shaped hands are beveled with polished edges and a brushed, streamlined middle. 

I have a feeling one point of divisiveness on this dial will be the gold color used on the power reserve indicator. It’s clear this complication has caused some chaos in the Grand Seiko community for some time, with some adoring the feature while others praying Grand Seiko releases more Spring Drive models without it. 

So, to see the indicator demanding more attention than ever in a new gold hue will likely cause disagreements. That said, I really like it. I think it adds to the opulence of the dial. It’s also not just some plain gold surface either; Grand Seiko has taken their time to add intricate faceted detailing to make it all the more beautiful.

The golden power reserve indicator matches nicely with the gold, hand-applied GS logo at 12 o’clock, which sits above silvered printing for “Grand Seiko” just below it. Similarly, lettering at 6 o’clock is printed to denote the Spring Drive movement housed inside. 

The only other point of interest on the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch’s dial is the date window at 3 o’clock, bordered by its own silvered frame and presented with a black-on-white date disc.

A Spring Drive Movement

Powering the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is, as its name suggests, one of the Japanese watch brand’s Spring Drive movements. The Caliber 9R65 is an in-house hybrid movement that combines the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. 

I won’t go into the technology behind Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive movement in too much detail but know that it uses a self-winding mechanism, allowing the watch to harness the energy generated by the wearer’s movements while also incorporating a quartz regulator that ensures stable and precise timekeeping.

It basically means you get the beauty of a mechanical movement but with the accuracy of a quartz one. To put it into perspective, even some of the most precise mechanical movements in the world are rated between -4 to +6 seconds per day. 

The Caliber 9R65, however, has an impressive precision of just +/-1 second per day, or +/- 15 seconds per month. The movement also boasts a seamless, continuous sweep of the second hand, enhancing the watch’s aesthetic appeal, and an extended 72-hour long power reserve, which, as mentioned, is displayed on the dial in gold.

Beyond their performance, Spring Drive movements are wonderfully finished, showcasing a range of exquisite finishes that make the open case back worth taking the watch off every once in a while. At first glance, it closely resembles a traditional mechanical movement, and this is no coincidence since many of the mechanical components remain intact. 

It has striking striped bridges and beautiful interior anglage, which enhance the overall elegance of the movement. The continuation of Zaratsu polishing also adds an extra layer of refinement, reflecting light in a way that showcases the meticulous craftsmanship involved.

A Full Metal Bracelet

Completing the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is the bracelet. There’s nothing much to say about this, honestly. It’s not that it’s a bad bracelet by any means, but compared to the attention to detail applied to the case, dial, and movement, the bracelet feels a little obsolete. It’s still a lovely watch strap, though, featuring a classic three-row link architecture with mostly brushed surfaces and a few polished elements to tie in with the case. 

It’s an odd size, offering a lug width of 19mm and tapering down slightly to 18mm as it reaches the clasp. It’s not going to be easy to find many replacement straps with a 19mm lug width, but there are drilled lugs, so once you do find one, swapping it over is easy. 

The links of the bracelet are screwed, and while there is no micro-adjustment, there are two half-links for decent levels of adjustment. As for the clasp, it’s a standard dual push button trigger with the Grand Seiko logo decorating the exterior in relief.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is a pleasure to wear for a number of reasons. The most obvious is that it’s a beautiful watch, and I feel almost honored to wear something that has been designed and crafted so meticulously. Honestly, every aspect of the dial and case feels expensive, and it looks like it should cost more than the price tag suggests. 

The dial, in particular, will no doubt attract attention and be a great conversation starter. The deep-grained finishing, faceted hardware, and golden elements catch the light effortlessly, creating a dynamic visual experience that shifts with every angle. 

It’s also an extremely comfortable watch to wear. The excellent dimensions, including the 40mm width, 12.5mm height, and 46.2mm lug width, means it will wear easily on wrists as low as six inches. For wrists larger than eight inches, you might find it a touch small unless you like the super compact vibe. 

It’s a watch that works as a sports watch (thanks to its water resistance), as a dress watch (thanks to its slim case), and as a daily beater. There’s really no occasion this watch wouldn’t suit.

Price & Availability

Honestly, I can’t quite get over the retail price of the Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch. To find a watch engineered to this standard for less than $6,000 is not a common sight. The model retails brand new from authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces for $5,600, and if you’re lucky, you might be able to find preowned examples on the second-hand market for around $5,000. 

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA49 watch is also a permanent addition to the Japanese watch manufacturer’s Heritage collection, which means it’s not limited to a specific number of pieces. That said, it is exclusive to the US market, so it’s not as easily accessible as one might hope.

Conclusion

The Grand Seiko Heritage Spring Drive SBGA491 is undoubtedly one of the finest Spring Drive watches I’ve had the pleasure of reviewing. I’m still amazed by its price tag of $5,600, which, when you consider the in-house Spring Drive movement, the beautifully executed case, and the meticulously detailed dial, feels like an absolute steal. 

Yes, there are more affordable Spring Drive models on the market, but for this level of craftsmanship and attention to detail, I genuinely believe this to be one of the best entry-level options available. It seamlessly blends cutting-edge technology with the elegance and tradition that Grand Seiko is known for, making it a standout piece for any collector.

A close friend of mine is a bigger fan of Grand Seiko than anyone I know. His collection is predominantly filled with models from the brand’s Heritage, Elegance, and Sports families, and he’s often the person I go to when I have any questions or concerns about a particular model. 

It wasn’t all that long ago when we were chatting in-depth about GMTs, and I asked him which dual time-telling model from Grand Seiko would be his go-to recommendation. He mentioned several models, including the Spring Drive-powered SBGE253 and the beautifully dressy and impressively affordable SBGM221.

But the watch he spoke most passionately about was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch. He described it as one of the best GMT sports watches on the market, being wearable, attractive, and well-priced for the list of specs that are included. 

So, of course, as any watch-obsessed writer would, I went out to find the watch for myself and tried it for a full week to see if it was really as good as he suggested. So here I am, reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245…

When Was the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 Released?

I’m not sure how it happened, but the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch was one of those releases that flew under the radar for me. I don’t know what other watches were being released at the same time, but it must have been something good for me to not have noticed a new GMT model from Grand Seiko. 

The design was first launched in 2021, towards the end of the year, and joined the Japanese watch brand’s collection alongside an equally attractive olive green-dialed variant.

Grand Seiko has never had a shortage of GMT models in their arsenal, but some of the most compact references were those with quartz movements. Now, don’t get me wrong, I love quartz watches – especially those by Grand Seiko – but if budget allows, I will always choose a mechanical timepiece. I’m a sucker for the craftsmanship and complexity that goes into a mechanical movement. 

But, the majority of Grand Seiko’s mechanical GMTs were a little large in size, typically measuring around 44mm in diameter. But with the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch and its green-faced counterpart, you’re getting both a mechanical movement and a compact set of case dimensions.

A Sporty but Compact Case

Sports watches, GMT watches, and sport GMT watches are typically large with statement dimensions to make an impact. This is fine if you have the wrist real estate to pull it off, but alas, with my five-and-a-half inch wrist, I’ve always found shopping for a solid sports watch incredibly difficult. So, when I saw the dimensions of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch, I was over the moon. Finally, a sports GMT model that I could wear! 

Its dimensions include a 40.5mm width and a lug-to-lug of 48.6mm. On my wrist, it sits really nicely. It gives off that oversized sports watch aesthetic – something I absolutely love – with the short, downward-turned lugs helping to keep the watch nice and close to the skin. It’s a relatively thick watch, at 14.4mm tall, but it’s what you’d expect from a watch of this genre. 

At the end of the day, it’s a sports watch, not a dress watch, and we’ve got to take into account the prominent bezel, which gives the design so much of its personality, and the movement inside, which includes an extra layer of hardware for the GMT hand. That said, I can still imagine this watch sliding under the cuff of a dress shirt, as long as it’s one that’s not too tight. 

Despite this being one of Grand Seiko’s entry-level mechanical sport GMT watches, the finishing of the stainless steel case is exceptional. It delivers the same high levels of attention to detail as some of their more expensive models. It has satin-brushed finishing on the lug hoods and bright polishing on the case flanks. A beautiful sharp bevel separates the lugs from the case sides to help add to the watch’s sporty, streamlined architecture. 

This bevel, along with the case flanks, are brilliantly polished using Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing technique. Also known as black polish, this is a high-end finishing that requires talented artisans who have trained for three years to meticulously hand polish the steel by holding it against a spinning tin plate. It’s a complex process, but one that delivers an exceptional mirror-like shine.

Giving the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch its tool-like personality is the bezel placed atop. Finished in matching stainless steel, the polished and satinized surface is handsomely etched with black-colored numerals for the 24-hour scale. If you still question this watch’s sportiness, know that it also comes with a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock and a closed case back offering a 200-meter water resistance. 

A Hand-Finished Dial

Every piece of shiny hardware seen on the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch’s dial is hand-finished, like the case. These lovely little pieces of dial furniture are once again polished by hand using diamond-tipped milling tools to create this lustrous shine. 

The hardware isn’t just singularly treated either but features brushing and polishing on the same component to create this wonderful visual effect of light play. For example, the hands at the center have beveled and polished edges and satinated centers, adding to their sharp and aggressive aesthetic. Similarly, the hour markers are faceted and boast their own combination of polishing and brushed finishing.

The hardware, all of which is also placed entirely by hand, sits on a gorgeous sunburst blue dial that plays with the lighting conditions depending on how you angle your wrist. One minute, the color is a rich navy blue; the next, it’s almost jet black. 

Even in the dark, the dial impresses with a generous amount of Lumibrite (Grand Seiko’s go-to luminous material) added to the hands and the four markers at each cardinal point. At night, these elements glow a rich green, providing you with effortless legibility no matter your surroundings.

The central GMT hand, finished in bright red for exceptional contrast, has its own arrow-shaped luminous tip. Its color pairs with the GMT text at 6 o’clock, also printed in red sitting beside white lettering to denote its automatic movement. 

Working with this complication is the sloped flange around the dial’s center, which is printed with a second24-hourr scale and has a dual-toned backdrop to showcase the day hours in silver and the night hours in navy blue. 

The only other features of the dial I’m yet to mention include the applied GS logo at 12 o’clock and the date window positioned at 4 o’clock. I appreciate the integration of the date window where the 4 o’clock hour marker should be, plus the nicely polished border. But would this dial look better without a date? Yes, I think so. Or at least let’s incorporate a blue date wheel to allow it to blend into the dial design a little more subtly.

An In-House Movement

As mentioned, the case back of the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is closed. It’s a shame, as I always love to see the workings of a mechanical movement, but we do have to keep in mind that its closed nature helps to assist in its healthy 200-meter water resistance. The case back is nicely decorated, showcasing a lovely beaded border and the Grand Seiko lion logo at the center in relief.

The exact movement hiding behind this steel component is the Caliber 9S66 automatic winding movement. It’s a movement made entirely in-house by Grand Seiko and regulated in their own facilities, promising an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. To receive this rating, the movement has been measured in six positions and placed under stress in artificially controlled environments for 12 days.

We’re promised a 72-hour power reserve, so you can easily take this watch off on Friday and put it back on Monday morning without worrying about lost time. It also pivots on 35 jewels, has stop seconds, and, of course, the added date and GMT complications for improved functionality.

Straps

There is beautiful satin-brushed finishing across the top and conforming end links for a comfortable fit. I’ve always liked the slight rolled bevel on these Grand Seiko bracelets. They have a lovely polished outer surface, giving the watch a contemporary look. 

The links are screw fixed and can be removed to achieve a more accurate fit. To help, there are several half links on either side, plus micro-adjustment holes on the stamped clasp. The twin push button release clasp is effortless to use and is nicely presented with the GS logo in relief. 

There’s a 20mm space between the drilled lugs, so finding and changing out alternative straps for the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch is made easy. If you’re like me and you have relatively small wrists, note that this will wear even more compactly on a strap rather than a bracelet.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 is a fantastic watch that wears surprisingly comfortably for its size. With a 40.5mm width, it’s one of the most compact GMT sports watches out there, which is a huge plus for folks like me with smaller wrists—I’m rocking a five-and-a-half-inch wrist, and even though it’s a big watch, I love that oversized look. 

If your wrists are around six inches or more, this watch will fit perfectly; any smaller, and you might find it feels a bit too large. Any bigger than eight inches, and you might find it too small.

The 14.4mm height does make it thicker than your average dress watch, as it houses that impressive GMT movement. But don’t worry—it’s not so thick that you can’t slip it under a dress shirt. 

While this is definitely a tool watch and not a dress watch, I can still see it dressed up for formal occasions, too. The angled lugs and conforming end links of the bracelet make it super comfortable to wear all day, whether you’re at the office or out on an adventure. Overall, this watch strikes a great balance between functionality and style.

Price & Availability

Retailing for $5,700, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 watch has become one of the Japanese watchmakers’ entry-level mechanical GMT sports watches. It’s incredibly well-priced for the high levels of case and dial finishing and technology going on inside. 

It’s a permanent piece in their collection, meaning it’s not limited to a specific set of pieces, but since it has been out on the market since 2021, it might not be a model that stays around for much longer.

If you choose to order the design, please ensure it’s through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces so you can feel confident you’re getting a genuine watch with all the official paperwork and warranty.  Alternatively, you may be able to find it on the second-hand market for around $3,500 to $4,000.

Conclusion

Following my friend’s advice has never let me down, and after reviewing the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 at his suggestion, I can confirm he’s one to trust yet again. This watch is beautifully executed in every way. The case is sporty and streamlined, making it incredibly comfortable to wear, allowing even those of us with smaller-than-average wrists to enjoy the statement that comes with a sporty GMT watch.

What truly sets this watch apart, though, is the exceptional hand-finishing. In a world where many luxury watches skimp on this detail, the Grand Seiko Sport GMT SBGM245 stands out.