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The Crown’s Other Kingdom – Rolex’s Place in the History of Bracelet Design
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Watch people love to obsess over the details. Subtle dial variations, crown guards (or lack thereof), lug shape, Hesalite vs sapphire crystal – the opportunities to nerd out are almost endless. But one area that gets significant attention from watch aficionados isn’t even part of the watch itself.
A bracelet can significantly enhance both the look and value of a watch. Steel, titanium, or precious metal – watch bracelets are a unique accessory that has a history all their own. And Rolex’s bracelet game stands above all others.
Their role in the design and development of this accessory cannot be overstated, and we thought we’d take some time to discuss the evolution of bracelets by “the Crown.”
Many of these are still being produced, and it’s worth knowing what you might encounter in the wild while on your search for your next (or first) Rolex.
Oyster Bracelet
Though not the first bracelet from Rolex, the Oyster bracelet is by far the most common In the Crown’s lineup. Designed by Gay Frerès, one of (if not THE) the most important watch bracelet designers in history, the Oyster was patented in 1947.
It features a triple-linked metal construction – a larger link in the middle flanked by a smaller link on either side. Clasps vary depending on manufacture date, but all use the Oysterclasp or the deployant Oysterlock.
When you buy a Rolex today on an Oyster, you’ll also benefit from Rolex’s proprietary Guidelock Technology, which allows wearers to make micro-adjustments to the clasp based on their wrist size and preferred fit.
Rolex has used this bracelet on many models throughout its history. In fact, it became so ubiquitous that the company purchased Gay Frerès in 1998. Fabrication was then brought in-house, leading to stylistic and technological improvements.
But the general design of the Oyster has remained the same for nearly 80 years.
Jubilee Bracelet
Next, we’ll move on to the bracelet that many claim to be the best design in the industry. The Jubilee was originally created for the Datejust in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary.
It was the company’s first in-house bracelet, and its dressier nature combined with a lightness and comfort made the Jubilee an instant hit.
Only available in solid gold upon its release, Rolex decided to offer it in two-tone 5 years later, earning it the moniker ‘Rolesor.’ And now you can own a Jubilee bracelet in steel as well as precious metal.
This design is immediately recognizable due to its 5-link design and mesh or “woven basket”-style appearance.
It is a model known to offer more stretch and flex to the wearer’s wrist compared to the Oyster, and the Jubilee bracelet’s appearance has remained more or less intact since its release.
However, subtle changes to the link shape have occurred over the years – from folded, to oval links, to D-shaped, to solid.
These bracelets are generally found with either an Oysterclasp or a Crownclasp, which appears almost invisible with just a subtle crown buckle indicating its location.
While available on other bracelet models, the “Hidden Crownclasp” is no longer offered on the Jubilee, making it highly sought after.
President Bracelet
A defining part of the Rolex Day-Date collection, the President bracelet was created for the launch of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date in 1956. Since then, it has remained available only on the Day Date and some precious metal versions of the Lady Datejust.
Only available in 18 kt gold or platinum, it’s been fitted with a Hidden Crownclasp throughout its history, with the exception of the very first iteration. The President bracelet was always meant as a premium option for Rolex customers, and this is still the case today.
Visually, the President looks like a cross between the Oyster and the Jubilee designs. It employs a solid 3-link construction like the Oyster bracelet, but rather than the flat links of the Oyster, it uses semi-circular links that are visually closer to the Jubilee. Some feel this is the best of both worlds, and it is a design frequently imitated by other brands.
Oysterflex
The newest of the Rolex bracelet lineup, the Oysterflex ,debuted in 2015. It was initially released on the rose gold Yachtmaster, but can now be found on multiple models, including the Daytona and the Skydweller.
Somewhat unique in the industry, this option appears like a band, but it actually has a metal core made of a titanium and nickel alloy (which is why Rolex refers to it as a bracelet rather than a strap).
The Oysterflex is only available in black, and it was quite polarizing upon its release. Some liked that Rolex came out with a more sporty option and its thoughtful construction, while others felt it to be too “unrolex” and a step down from the other full metal bracelets in its line-up…cheapening the collection.
No matter your feelings on it, there are some subtle elements that elevate this above your standard rubber strap. Besides its metal core, the Oysterflex has a nicely tiered surface.
The underside has wing-like curved cushions that slightly raise the strap away from the skin, allowing for some airflow.
They also help to stabilize the watch and keep it centered on the wrist. It tapers slightly and has a deployant clasp with Rolex’s proprietary Easylink extension system, allowing for simple adjustments.
Pearlmaster Bracelet
The Pearlmaster bracelet was launched initially for the Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster watches in 1992, but towards the end of its run, they could be found on 34 mm and 38 mm ultra-luxurious men’s pieces as well.
“Pearlmaster” in Rolex-speak refers to the manufacturer’s high-end jewelry watches – think diamonds and other gems on a bezel, dial, or both.
A bit of a secret menu item for the elite, Pearlmaster watches are most often seen on the wrists of celebrities watching a game courtside or walking the red carpet.
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Discontinued in 2022, these bracelets were only available in 18 kt gold and diamonds. Distinguished by 5-piece rounded links, these are undoubtedly the rarest watch bracelets offered by The Crown.
The Pearlmaster bracelet also features Rolex’s concealed Crownclasp and is entirely mirror polished (a finish that Rolex very rarely uses).
That being said, in the 2000s, Rolex made some special edition Day-Date watches called “Masterpieces.” These were also fitted with Pearlmaster bracelets, but are sometimes referred to fittingly as Masterpiece bracelets.
And to add to the confusion, these were referred to as “Oyster Special Edition” in the official brand catalog.
Conclusion
So, there you have it – a bit of info and history on the most important watch bracelets in the industry. Though other brands make an outstanding product, Rolex will always be the gold standard for this important accessory.
While there’s obviously no right answer on which one to choose, a thoughtful selection can truly enhance a watch.
Like everything else in this hobby, buy what you like and what fits your needs. But if you prefer your watch on a bracelet, you can fit it with an additional piece of horological history…one that doesn’t tell time but is no less of a conversation piece for those in the know.
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