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10 Popular Vintage Watches for Women
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When it comes to wearing wristwatches, women were first.
From the late 19th century on into the 20th, there was an explosion in interest in watches from women whose attire didn’t usually allow the use of pocket watches. As a result, women of all socioeconomic levels began to wear watches as necklaces, brooches, and, eventually, on their wrists.
Wristwatches became such a fashion statement and status symbol for women that men at first balked at wearing them. Soldiers fighting in World War I and civilians as well had to be convinced by watch companies that wristwatches were both practical and “masculine” enough for gents to wear as well!
As a result of this head start, many vintage women’s watches from that era became fashion icons. Vintage styles included smaller, delicate watches and rectangular Art Deco-inspired pieces, precious metals and steel, and bejeweled cases, dials, and bracelets that exuded sophistication and charm.
Recently, there has been a resurgence of interest in vintage watches which often possess character, craftsmanship, and stories that set them apart from many modern offerings. Women attracted to classical styling and the charm of a bygone era are taking vintage and vintage-inspired pieces and pairing them with modern fashion to produce a striking juxtaposition that blends the best of old and new.
In this article, I’ll highlight some important considerations to keep in mind when shopping the vintage market and 10 popular women’s vintage watches that have endured the test of time.
Things to Know Before Buying Vintage
First, what age qualifies as vintage? While opinions vary, a watch that is 30 years old is generally considered vintage while one 20-30 years old usually falls more into the “neovintage” category. Interestingly, if a watch is 20 years old but has been discontinued, many collectors classify it as vintage.
Also, a vintage piece that is unpolished and has all its original parts (especially dials) is considered more valuable than one that has a freshly-polished gleam and/or has been restored with parts from other watches which are not true to the original reference (aka, “Frankenstein” watches). Along that same line, it helps to have a reputable dealer to buy from, and it’s always advisable to seek the help of enthusiasts with experience in buying and collecting vintage pieces.
Remember, too, that a vintage piece is probably not going to be a “daily driver” but instead one worn more sparingly or for special occasions. Assuming that your vintage Rolex Submariner is going to be as water-resistant as it was when new is a recipe for disappointment and a hefty service and repair bill.
10 Popular Women’s Vintage Watches
The following are 10 popular women’s vintage watches which have aged gracefully through the decades.
1. Cartier Tank, any reference, 1919-onward
It’s ironic that the Cartier Tank, originally produced for soldiers and designed with lugs that resembled the tracks (“brancards”) of the Renault FT-17 tank, would become one of the most desirable women’s vintage watches, but here we are.
The Cartier Tank’s rectangular shape launched the Art Deco style trend, and its smaller case sizes, iconic white dial, Roman numeral indices, “tank tread” minute track, blue sword-shaped handset, and signature blue cabochon-cut sapphire crown have made it a highly sought after vintage watch among women, as well as many men.
There were more precious metals than steel models produced over the years. A vintage solid gold Tank can be had in the 5K-10K range, but steel ones are available in the 2K and up range.
2. Must de Cartier Tank, ref. 1613, 1970s-1980s
While we’re on the subject of Cartier, we should also consider the massed-produced Must de Cartier Tank which was intended as a more affordable entry-level option than the luxury model and a response to the Quartz Crisis of the time.
Instead of precious metals, cases were made of “vermeil”, or 18K gold-plated sterling silver, and in place of a mechanical movement, the less expensive Caliber 057 quartz was used. The classic Art Deco style case persisted, but the dial design ranged from the classic Roman numerals to variations that used lacquered, bold colors and designs. Instead of sapphire, a synthetic spinel cabochon was used on the crown.
A vintage ref. 1613 will run in the 2K-3K range.
3. Rolex Datejust, ref. 6917, 1970s-1990s
Of course, no women’s vintage watch list would be complete without a representative from “The Crown”. While the smallest case diameter of a modern Rolex Datejust is 31mm, there was a time when it came in 26mm, making it ideal for many women looking for a more elegant and refined look. The fact that the ref. 6917 had both all 18K yellow gold and two-toned, steel/gold versions helped make it an instant classic.
Dial variations included gemstone-set mother-of-pearl and also stones, such as lapis lazuli, malachite, and onyx, which produced one-of-a-kind patterns. Bezels were typically fluted, but also included some diamond-set references. Indices included batons, as well as Roman numerals and gemstones. Both President and Jubilee bracelets were common.
These days, this reference brings between 3K-10K, depending on the amount of precious metals and gemstones used.
4. Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Caliber 101, 1929-onward
While Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) is probably best known for its Reverso, the company’s Caliber 101, introduced in 1929 and still made today, is the world’s smallest watch movement (14mm x 4.8mm x 3.4mm) and represents just as powerful a horological breakthrough.
The miniature size of the Caliber 101 allowed JLC to produce pieces that deemphasized the watch by embedding it within delicate, precious metal and gemstone-set pieces of jewelry, typically bracelets, and sometimes even rings. Among the designs were “secret” cocktail watches with hidden dials concealed by elegant bracelets but viewable discreetly to the wearer. The Caliber 101 was also the beating heart of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation watch worn in 1953.
Vintage Caliber 101 pieces were not standard production, but instead bespoke, so prices fall in the “If you have to ask, then . . .” range seen at exclusive auctions.
5. Piaget Polo, ref. 761 (27mm, round) and ref. 8131 (20mm, square), 1979-1990
The Piaget Polo, worn by celebrities such as Andy Warhol, Robert DeNiro, Brooke Shields, and Sylvester Stallone, is arguably in the same ranks of the Cartier Tank as a cultural and fashion icon.
The Piaget Polo is ultra-integrated, with a bracelet and case so blended that if it weren’t for the handset, it would be hard to tell where the bracelet ends and the case starts (especially with the square ref. 8131). Adding to this effect was a crown hidden on the caseback that added to the symmetry. Cases and bracelets are solid, 18K satin-finished yellow gold with polished gadroons between the links. The watch is powered by svelte quartz caliber 7P, considered revolutionary at the time, which enhanced Piaget’s reputation for producing ultra-thin timepieces.
When released, the Polo was considered so chic and exclusive that it retailed for $20,000 ($70,000 in today’s dollars). Today, the main value is in the gold, and on the vintage market they command 15K-20K.
6. Omega Ladymatic (1955-1970s)
In 1955, Omega cut against the gender-stereotyped grain of the time by producing a ladies watch acknowledging that women, too, were perfectly capable of appreciating accuracy, technology, and “how mechanical things work”.
The Ladymatic featured the Caliber 455 which had a rotor and was the smallest automatic movement made at the time. Not only was it self-winding, but the Caliber 455 was also a certified (COSC) chronometer. The Ladymatic was small and elegant and came in a variety of materials such as gold, steel, and gold-filled. Some were made into beautiful, handcrafted jewelry by famous designers of the time. Leather straps or cords and bracelets gave the watch enough versatility for both evening cocktails and “daily driving”.
In 2010, Omega relaunched the Ladymatic with both a retro vibe and modern specs. If you’re looking for a relatively inexpensive vintage one, they will run about $500.
7. Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse, ref. 3548, 1968-1976
Women are often spotted wearing vintage Patek’s signature models such as the Calatrava and the Nautilus. But an often overlooked one is the Golden Ellipse released in 1968.
Created by Patek’s head of design at the time, Jean-Daniel Rubeli, the Golden Ellipse featured an elliptical case which has a longer side that is approximately 1.618 times the length of the shorter one, aka, the “Golden Ratio”, which is associated with aesthetic harmony and “pleasing proportions” present in nature and often used in art and design.
The first 3548 had a striking blue dial and was 18K gold with a matching mesh bracelet. While the watch met with a muted response, it gained favor over the years as Patek went on to launch similarly shaped popular accessories such as cufflinks and keychains. The ref. 3548 retailed for $1,700 in 1968 ($15,727 in 2025 dollars). Ironically, that’s about the average cost of a vintage one today.
8. Hamilton Ventura, 1957 onward
The triangular, shield-shaped Ventura was Hamilton’s futuristic vision of a “watch of tomorrow” and the world’s first with an electronic movement. It is also strongly associated with men in movies, namely Elvis Presley in Blue Hawaii, and the alien-chasing agents in the Men in Black.
But I have a sneaky suspicion that designer Richard Arbib knew it would be a hit with women, too, and sure enough it is regarded as “unisex” today. Case in point, my wife picked out a new one last year at the Hamilton boutique in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, birthplace of the brand.
Venturas are readily available on the preowned and vintage marketplace, and prices can range from several hundred to several thousand dollars, depending on age, condition, materials, and provenance.
9. Bulova Rubaiyat, 1917 onward
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It’s fitting in 2025, Bulova’s 150th anniversary, to highlight a brand that was ahead of its time in recognizing the importance of creating timepieces for women. A well-known one is the Art Deco design “Lady Lindy”, launched in 1928 launched to honor Amelia Earhart’s solo flight across the Atlantic, which was the ladies counterpart to the Charles Lindbergh-inspired “Lone Eagle”.
But Bulova had already launched its first line of women-focused watches in 1917, the classic Rubaiyat, named after a 12th-century book of Persian poetry. In contrast to the popular boxy, Art Deco-themed women’s watches of the early 20th century, early Rubaiyats were oval or around, but they still retained the popular options in materials, dials, gemstones, straps, and bracelets that allowed for versatility across a variety of occasions.
Bulova relaunched the modern Rubaiyat in 2017, 100 years after its introduction. There are vintage Rubaiyat references in good working condition available for under $500.
10. Ernest Borel Cocktail Watch, 1953 onward
We’ll finish our list with a fun and quirky example of an iconic vintage women’s timepiece, the Ernest Borel cocktail watch. Small, dainty watches with funky geometric dial designs have been around since the 1920s, inspired by that decade’s high-fashion emphasis and reputation for lavish parties and risqué jazz clubs.
But in 1953, Ernest Borel upped the ante by adding motion to the picture. Using two transparent, patterned discs, one containing the handset that stays stationary, and the other a rotating disc, the watch produced a constantly changing “kaleidoscope” effect. Initially launched as a women’s watch, men soon wanted their own version as well. In the 1960s, these models, along with accompanying rings, desk clocks, and pendants, were very popular among “hippies” and “flower children” who perhaps enhanced the watches’ psychedelic effects with a few, um, “mind altering substances” of their own.
Ernest Borel closed during the 1970s Quartz Crisis but was relaunched in 1997 and continues to produce their famous cocktail watch today. There are many vintage ones still available for as little as a few hundred dollars to over a thousand for ones in excellent condition.
Conclusion
Vintage ladies’ watches are a reminder of a past era when companies gave women the kind of decorative and dainty timepieces they thought they wanted. The modern watchscape, however, is much different.
While women still want the option of small and elegant watches with orthodox feminine design cues, the modern vibe is one of increasing numbers of unisex designs and size, along with growing numbers of men and women wearing the watches of “the other”.
This trend extends to traditionally women’s vintage watches as well. Case in point: Consider actor Timothée Chalamet in a New York Yankees baseball jersey, eating pizza, while rocking his tiny Cartier Panthère!
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