Author: Charlotte H

The Rolex Explorer is one of those rare timepieces that manages to blend history, adventure, and sheer practicality into a single, understated package. Born in the 1950s and famously tied to the golden age of mountaineering, it’s become a staple of Rolex’s lineup for good reason.

The Explorer isn’t oversized like some of its sporty siblings or overly dressy that it feels too flashy, and that’s precisely its charm. It’s a go-anywhere, do-anything watch that feels just as at home scaling peaks as it does slipping under a shirt cuff at a dinner party. 

For decades, the Explorer has epitomized the idea of a “tool watch”, something built to be functional first, stylish second. And while the design has remained remarkably consistent over the years, Rolex has introduced subtle changes that make choosing the right model surprisingly tricky.

Case in point: the Explorer 36 and Explorer 40. On the surface, they might seem nearly identical, but the differences are there, and they matter, whether it’s about fit, proportions, or the case materials on offer.

A Bit of Background on the Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer has one of the coolest origin stories in the world of watches. Back in 1953, Rolex supplied their Oyster Perpetual watches to the British Mount Everest Expedition, led by John Hunt.

And these weren’t just marketing props. Rolex genuinely wanted to see how their watches held up in extreme conditions. So, on May 29, 1953, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made history by reaching the summit, and with them, the Rolex Explorer became part of the story. 

By the end of the year, Rolex introduced the Explorer as a tribute to that achievement. It wasn’t flashy or ornamental but built to be practical, robust, and readable.

The watch was designed to handle just about anything, with a waterproof Oyster case, a self-winding movement, and a simple yet effective black dial with luminous markers. It was a watch, not for showing off, but for getting the job done, whether that job was conquering Everest or navigating general everyday adventures. 

Over the years, the Explorer has remained consistent, which is part of its appeal. It’s always been made with stainless steel, always featured that iconic 3-6-9 dial, and has always been focused on function over form.

References like the 1016, which had a three-decade run starting in the late ‘50s, became benchmarks for what a tool watch should be: tough, reliable, and timeless. 

The Explorer has evolved gradually. You got sapphire crystal with the ref. 14270 in the ‘80s, a move to modern movements with the ref. 114270 in the early 2000s, and then, in 2010, the size jumped to 39mm with the ref. 214270.

That last change was divisive at first as some felt the proportions were off, especially with the short hands on the earlier versions. Rolex fixed it in 2016 with longer hands and better lume, but the jump to a larger case showed how even the Explorer couldn’t escape the industry’s trend toward bigger watches.

And of course, that was made even more clear with the launch of the Rolex Explorer 40 in 2023, which inevitably replaced the slightly smaller 39mm reference. 

What’s amazing about the Explorer is how it’s managed to stay relevant for so long without losing its essence.

Rolex doesn’t mess around with this watch; it’s not like the Submariner or GMT-Master, which come in a dozen variations. The Explorer is straightforward and singular, and that’s what makes it so compelling. It’s a watch that doesn’t need hundreds of variations to stand out; it’s brilliant as is. 

But that said, although the Rolex Explorer collection is limited in its options, there are still options. Two are the Explorer 36 and the Explorer 40. These two references have a lot in common, but they also offer subtle yet significant differences in size, proportions, and case materials. Choosing between them might seem straightforward, but the details are what make all the difference.

The Rolex Explorer 36

The Rolex Explorer 36 has a kind of quiet confidence about it. At 36mm, it’s not trying to be big or bold—it just knows what it is. And that’s part of what makes it so special.

This is the size that Rolex had in mind when the Explorer first launched back in 1953, celebrating the legendary Everest ascent by Hillary and Norgay. It’s not oversized, not undersized, just right for what the Explorer was designed to be: a reliable, legible tool watch for adventures.

When Rolex reintroduced the 36mm Explorer in 2021 with the ref. 124270, it felt like coming home. After years of experimenting with larger case sizes, they went back to the dimensions that made the Explorer an icon in the first place.

They also packed the model with some new technology too. The Caliber 3230 remains one of Rolex’s newer in-house movements, offering a 70-hour power reserve, enhanced accuracy, and magnetic resistance.

The 36mm model is exactly what you’d expect from an Explorer. It’s clean and purposeful and comes with a black lacquered dial, luminous hands, and those unmistakable 3, 6, and 9 numerals. The lume is Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight, which glows blue in the dark and stays visible for hours.

One of the most standout differences of the Explorer 36 compared to the Explorer 40 is reference 124273 which delivers the tool watch with a two-toned construction.

It pairs the steel case with a Rolesor gold bezel, winding crown and centre bracelet links. It adds a little bit of something different to the Explorer collection, still delivering a rugged tool watch but one with a more luxurious and elegant finish.

The Rolex Explorer 40

The Rolex Explorer 40 is basically the bigger sibling of the Explorer 36. We’ve already discussed the Explorer 36 above so truthfully, you already know most of what the 40 has to offer because, aside from its size, it’s almost identical.

Let’s start with what’s the same, which is, honestly, just about everything. Like the 36, the Explorer 40 has a durable Oystersteel case made from a solid block of corrosion-resistant steel, designed to take whatever life throws at it.

It’s waterproof to 100 meters thanks to the screw-down case back and the Twinlock crown, and its sapphire crystal keeps the black lacquered dial perfectly protected.

That dial also has the same clean, purposeful design as the 36 with those iconic 3, 6, and 9 numerals, the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, and baton-style hour markers, all coated in Rolex’s Chromalight lume for excellent readability in the dark.

Inside, it’s powered by the same movement, the Caliber 3230, which has become a Rolex staple. It’s a workhorse of an automatic movement, featuring the brand’s patented Chronergy escapement for efficiency, a Parachrom hairspring for magnetic resistance, and a 70-hour power reserve.

You’re getting the same precision and reliability you’d expect from a Rolex, tested to a rate of +2to -2 seconds per day which is well beyond the usual chronometer standards.

But here’s where the Explorer 40 takes its own path: the size. At 40mm wide and 11.6mm tall, it’s noticeably larger than the 36mm Explorer. And while the thickness is nearly identical—just 0.1mm taller—the extra width makes a real difference on the wrist. It has more presence, feeling a bit bolder without losing the Explorer’s signature understatement. If you’ve got a larger wrist or just prefer something with a bit more heft, the Explorer 40 will probably feel more balanced for you.

One other key difference is that unlike the Explorer 36, which is also available in a two-tone Rolesor gold and steel version, the Explorer 40 sticks exclusively to stainless steel, or at least for now. That simplicity keeps it in line with the Explorer’s rugged, no-frills heritage, though it might leave some wishing for more options.

Rolex Explorer 36 vs 40 – How to Choose

When it comes to choosing between the Rolex Explorer 36 and the Explorer 40, the key differences boil down to size and metal options. The two watches are nearly identical in design and features, so the choice really depends on how you want the watch to wear and what kind of vibe you’re going for.

The Size

The Explorer 36, as the name suggests, measures 36mm across, while the Explorer 40 bumps that up to 40mm. The difference might not sound massive on paper, but it’s very noticeable on the wrist. The 36mm size is the classic Explorer size, matching the proportions of the original 1953 model that accompanied mountaineers to the summit of Everest.

It has that vintage-inspired feel and is compact enough to work for a wide range of wrist sizes. In fact, it’s one of those rare Rolex watches that easily suits both men and women.

The Explorer 40, on the other hand, is a bit more of a modern take on the tool watch with its larger size. It measures to 40mm wide and 11.6mm thick so it has a much bigger presence and will better suit larger wrists.

If you’ve got a bigger frame or simply prefer watches that feel more substantial, the 40mm will likely feel better balanced. But if your wrist is on the smaller side, the 40 might come across as oversized and thus feel a little less versatile.

The Metal Options

As for design options, the Rolex Explorer collection is, and probably always will be, a little restrictive. It’s part of the collection’s charm. But for those that want at least a little bit of choice, the Rolex Explorer 36 is available in two versions: classic stainless steel (what Rolex calls Oystersteel) or a two-tone mix of steel and yellow gold (which Rolex refers to as “Rolesor”).

That Rolesor version adds an 18k yellow gold bezel, crown, and centre bracelet links, giving the Explorer a dressier, more luxurious feel. The Explorer 40, however, is currently only offered in stainless steel. That keeps it in line with the Explorer’s rugged, tool-watch roots and gives it a cleaner, sportier look.

Which Rolex Explorer Is Right For You?

If you’re leaning toward the Rolex Explorer 36, you’re probably someone who values tradition and versatility. Its smaller size and two-tone Rolesor option make it a great pick for those who want something that can easily transition from casual to dressy, and it’s a natural fit for smaller or average-sized wrists.

Plus, that 36mm size works equally well for both men and women, making it one of Rolex’s best unisex options.

The Explorer 40, on the other hand, is for those who like their watches a little bigger and bolder. It’s a sportier choice that’s perfect for larger wrists or for anyone who wants a watch that feels a bit more modern. Without the gold accents, it leans more utilitarian, making it ideal for someone who’s after the pure Explorer DNA without any frills.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, choosing between the Rolex Explorer 36 and Explorer 40 is less about one being better than the other and more about finding the one that feels right for you.

Both watches deliver the same legendary craftsmanship, robust Oystersteel construction, and timeless Explorer design. They’re even powered by the same reliable Caliber 3230 movement and offer that clean, versatile aesthetic that’s been a hallmark of the Explorer since its debut in 1953.

The decision really comes down to size and style. If you want a watch that feels more traditional, with compact proportions that work equally well on smaller wrists or for those looking for a subtle, dressier option, the 36mm model is hard to beat.

If, on the other hand, you prefer something with a bit more wrist presence, a modern edge, and a sportier vibe, the Explorer 40 offers all of that without compromising the Explorer’s original stainless steel heritage.

Ultimately, whichever model you choose, you’re getting a watch that’s brilliantly engineered for the everyday. It’s built to withstand a lifetime of adventures, whether that’s scaling mountains or navigating the everyday. You really can’t go wrong.

Few watches have achieved the status of the Rolex Submariner. If you think of a dive watch, this is the one that pops into your head. It’s the blueprint countless other brands have followed, and even today, many consider it the gold standard of the category.

Its design is instantly recognizable, its reputation is nearly untouchable, and thanks to a little help from James Bond, it has a pop culture presence that most watches can only dream of.

But the Rolex Submariner is not a cheap watch, nor is it easy to get hold of – at least, brand new. Yet, despite that, it remains one of the most talked-about dive watches ever. I’d say it’s the one watch I get asked about more than any other.

The questions are usually something like: “What’s the best affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner?” or “Is the Rolex Submariner actually worth it?”

If you’re on a tight budget, the Rolex Submariner probably isn’t for you. But if you’ve got some cash to spare and you’re after a durable, stylish, and premium dive watch, then you’re probably wondering if the Rolex Submariner is your best option.

If so, you’ve come to the right place because in this article, I’ll be reviewing the entire Rolex Submariner collection to find out if this is still the dive watch to beat.

A Quick History of the Rolex Submariner

Rolex was already making waves in water-resistant watches long before the Submariner was born. Back in 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster case, a design still used today, which is an innovative, hermetically sealed case design that keeps water out from the components working hard inside. 

To prove its effectiveness, Rolex strapped an Oyster watch onto the wrist of British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her attempt to swim the English Channel.

The watch survived the icy waters and emerged unscathed, giving Rolex an incredible marketing story that set the foundation for its reputation for durability and water resistance.

Over the next few decades, Rolex continued pushing the limits of waterproof technology, even attaching prototype watches to deep-sea submersibles to test their endurance at extreme depths. This obsession with performance eventually led to the creation of one of the most important dive watches of all time.

By the early 1950s, recreational diving was growing in popularity, thanks to innovations like Jacques Cousteau’s Aqua-Lung. Divers needed a reliable way to track their time underwater, and Rolex saw an opportunity. In 1953, they released the first-ever Rolex Submariner, reference 6204, boasting an unheard-of 100-meter water resistance.

This watch set the template for everything we associate with dive watches today. It came with a rotating bezel adorned with a 60-minute scale, high-contrast luminous markers, and a robust stainless steel case.

Not long after, Rolex upped the ante and improved the Submariner’s water resistance to 200 meters and introduced the now-iconic “Mercedes” hands for better legibility. The Submariner was quickly proving itself as the ultimate tool watch for divers.

Then, in 1962, something happened that would catapult the Rolex Submariner into mainstream culture: it landed on the wrist of none other than James Bond.

Sean Connery famously wore a Submariner 6538 in Dr. No, and just like that, the Submariner wasn’t just a tool for divers anymore but a symbol of adventure, sophistication, and style. 

While Rolex kept refining the Submariner with technological upgrades like a stronger case and better lume, its newfound Hollywood status meant it was now appealing to a much broader audience. The Rolex Sub became no longer just about function but a statement piece, a watch associated with success and prestige.

By the 1970s, Rolex had introduced a version of the Submariner with a date function and a “Cyclops” magnifier over the date window, a feature that remains divisive among purists to this day.

Water resistance was improved to 300 meters in the late ‘80s, and by the 2000s, Rolex was incorporating high-tech materials like ceramic bezels and Parachrom hairsprings for even greater durability and precision.

Despite all these advancements, one thing has remained constant, and that’s that the Submariner has never strayed far from its original design. That’s part of its magic.

A modern Submariner still looks unmistakably like the watch that debuted in the ‘50s, and to me, that’s a simple testament to how perfect the original formula was.

With nearly 70 years of history behind it, the Rolex Submariner remains one of the most desirable watches in the world. But with so many alternatives available today, including ones that are just a fraction of the price, is it still the best dive watch you can buy?

The Case

The Rolex Submariner’s case is one of the most meticulously engineered components of this legendary dive watch. As its history attests, it’s been designed to withstand the demands of deep-sea exploration and yet still maintain the elegance and refinement expected of a Rolex (and James Bond).

As of March 2025, the Submariner collection consists of eight core models, all featuring a 41mm case size and available in a selection of materials, including Oystersteel, Rolesor (a combination of steel and gold), and solid 18ct yellow gold. 

Each model is paired with either a black, blue, or green Cerachrom bezel, offering a variety of aesthetic choices while maintaining the fundamental essence of the Submariner’s DNA.

The most notable point of interest is Rolex’s Oyster case design, which has been at the forefront of waterproof watch technology since 1926. In the Submariner, this has been pushed to a water resistance of up to 300 meters or 1,000 feet, something that is cleverly achieved through an expertly crafted monobloc middle case, formed from a solid piece of Oystersteel. 

This material alone deserves an entire blog, but in short, it’s an advanced alloy that belongs to the 904L steel family. It boasts exceptional corrosion resistance and a wonderful polished appearance even under the harshest conditions.

In addition to the steel models, the Rolex Submariner is also available in luxurious solid 18ct yellow gold, 18ct white gold, and Rolesor, which harmoniously blends the robustness of steel with the luster of gold. The gold used in these models is produced entirely in Rolex’s own foundry to ensure high levels of quality and a distinctive, rich radiance.

Another key feature of the Rolex Submariner’s design is its Triplock winding crown, which plays a crucial role in ensuring the watch’s water resistance. Introduced in 1970, this system incorporates three separate waterproof zones that protect the movement from moisture and external elements. 

The crown screws down securely against the case, forming an impenetrable seal that can withstand the pressures of deep-sea diving.

Additionally, the Submariner’s case features crown guards that are integrated into the middle case to protect the winding crown from impact. This design not only enhances durability but also contributes to the watch’s distinctive profile.

The unidirectional rotatable bezel is another hallmark, providing divers with an essential tool for tracking immersion time. Each one is crafted from Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom, a high-tech ceramic material that ensures the bezel insert is virtually scratchproof and impervious to fading from UV exposure. 

The engraved 60-minute graduations are coated with platinum or gold via Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) to ensure visibility and longevity, and the bezel’s notched edge allows for an easy grip.

Within the current collection, each of the eight Rolex Submariner models offers a slightly different take on the iconic design.

The all-steel Submariner models include the reference 124060, a classic no-date variant with a black dial and black bezel, as well as the 126610LN, which features a date function while maintaining the same colour scheme. 

The reference 126610LV brings a bold twist, pairing a black dial with a vibrant green bezel, which is a nod to the “Kermit” Submariner of the past.

For those seeking a combination of steel and gold, the Rolesor models are an elegant alternative. The reference 126613LB presents a striking blue dial with a matching blue bezel, while the 126613LN opts for a more traditional black-on-black aesthetic accented by 18ct yellow gold.

In the solid gold category, the Submariner is available in 18ct yellow gold with two variations: the reference 126618LB, which features a rich blue dial and bezel, and the 126618LN, which offers a sleek black dial and bezel combination.

Finally, for those who prefer the exclusivity of white gold, the reference 126619LB pairs a black dial with a contrasting blue bezel.

The Dial

The Rolex Submariner dial is all about function. Everything on it serves a purpose, and that purpose is predominantly readability, whether you’re deep underwater or just glancing at your wrist in everyday life. It’s simple, straightforward, and very Rolex.

A big part of what makes it so easy to read is the Chromalight display. Rolex’s proprietary luminescent material glows an intense blue in the dark, giving divers a clear view of the time no matter the lighting conditions. In daylight, it’s a bright white that stands out crisply against the dial.

Applied to the hands, hour markers, and the little triangle at the zero position on the bezel, Chromalight ensures everything you need to see is visible at a glance.

Speaking of hour markers, they follow the same design Rolex has used on its dive watches for decades. Again, they are simple, formed in geometric shapes of circles, rectangles, and a triangle at 12 o’clock. The reason for this is to make reading the time quick and intuitive.

The markers are all outlined in white gold to prevent tarnishing and to help keep the watch looking sharp for years.

Then there are the Mercedes hands, which is another signature Rolex detail. The hour hand has a distinctive circular section near its tip, which does look a bit like the Mercedes-Benz logo, though that’s probably just a coincidence.

More importantly, it provides plenty of space for lume, making it easy to differentiate from the long, sword-like minute hand. The seconds hand also has its own luminous dot.

Rolex switched to glossy dials in the mid-1980s, and that’s what you’ll find on all current Submariner models.

The deep black or rich blue finish gives the dial a luxurious, almost liquid-like appearance, adding a bit of refinement to what is, at its core, a serious tool watch. It also contrasts nicely with the white text and markers, ensuring the dial remains highly legible.

Finally, one other small but interesting distinction in the lineup is the presence (or absence) of a date function. Most modern Submariners come with a date window at 3 o’clock, complete with the signature Cyclops magnifying lens. 

But if you want the cleanest, most traditional look, there is a single reference 124060 with no date or magnifying glass. It’s the purist’s choice, and it sticks closely to the original Submariner formula from the 1950s.

The Movement

Inside the Rolex Submariner ticks the in-house Caliber 3235. It’s an automatic winding movement that essentially matches the design DNA of the case and dial: it can handle demanding conditions.

One of its most notable features is the Chronergy escapement. Rolex reworked this critical component to be 15% more efficient back in 2015, thanks to thinner pallet stones and a double escape wheel with specially cut teeth. 

Made from nickel-phosphorus, it’s also highly resistant to magnetic fields, which is increasingly important in a world filled with electronic devices that can interfere with mechanical movements.

Another key feature is the power reserve. By using a nice long mainspring housed in a barrel with thinner walls, Rolex has equipped the Submariner with a power reserve of 70 hours. That means you can take the watch off for an entire weekend and come back to it on Monday without needing to reset the time. 

The movement also features Rolex’s Paraflex shock absorbers for improved durability, along with a blue Parachrom hairspring, which is both highly resistant to shocks and unaffected by temperature changes.

Finally, we can’t forget the accuracy. Like so many of Rolex’s watches, the Submariner is a Superlative Chronometer. This means it meets Rolex’s stringent precision standards, which go beyond the official COSC certification (which is already impressive enough).

COSC allows for a deviation of -4/+6 seconds per day, while Rolex tightens this to an impressive -2 to +2 seconds per day after casing.

The Strap

The Submariner wouldn’t be the same without its robust and functional Oyster bracelet. It’s a design that has been a Rolex staple for more than seven decades, evolving over the years while always maintaining its signature three-piece link structure. 

Originally inspired by the Bonklip-style bracelets of the 1930s and 1940s, Rolex officially patented the Oyster bracelet in 1947, and it has been a defining feature of the brand’s sports watches ever since.

Today’s Submariner bracelet is refined and durable, featuring solid links that give it a reassuring weight and feel on the wrist. But function is just as important as form.

Rolex equips the Submariner’s bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp to prevent accidental opening, ensuring that the watch stays securely fastened no matter the situation you’re in.

There’s also the Glidelock extension system, which is a clever innovation that allows for micro-adjustments in 2mm increments, up to 20mm in total.

No tools are needed, so it’s incredibly useful for those that find themselves needing to make adjustments on the go, whether it’s to expand it when you get hot or placing it over a wetsuit.

On-Wrist Experience

On the wrist, the Rolex Submariner strikes an impressive balance between presence and comfort. With a 41mm case diameter and a thickness of 12.5mm, it has enough heft to feel substantial but isn’t overbearing in any way. 

In Oystersteel, Rolesor, or solid 18k gold, the watch carries a reassuring weight, and it’s a nice reminder that this is a serious tool watch that will live up to its durable reputation.

I have no doubt some will find it heavier than other luxury watches, but that’s part of its appeal. It feels strong and solid, which is what you want in a watch like this.

Despite its robustness, the Submariner is still incredibly comfortable. The way the case curves down and the smooth transition to the Oyster bracelet means it sits well on a variety of wrist sizes, typically best suited for those with wrists around 6.5 inches and up.

Price & Availability

So, how much does the Rolex Submariner cost? As of March 2025, the diver’s model starts at $9,200 for the no-date version (Ref. 12406), and from there, prices rise as you add the date complication and precious metals.

The Submariner Date in Oystersteel costs $10,250, while two-tone Rolesor models push the price higher. If you’re after a full 18k gold version, be prepared to spend well over $40,000.

Availability, however, is another story. Like most Rolex models, the Submariner is notoriously difficult to buy new. Waiting lists at authorized dealers are long, with some people waiting for years just to get the call. Because of this, many are understandably turning to the pre-owned market.

Pre-owned prices tend to sit between $12,000 and $15,000, depending on condition, age, and model. That’s more than retail, but it’s the reality of buying Rolex in today’s market. 

The Submariner is one of those rare watches that not only holds its value but often appreciates over time. If you’re not set on buying brand new, it’s worth checking out reputable pre-owned specialists like Exquisite Timepieces to explore your options.

Conclusion

If you were going to ask me, then yes, I do think the Rolex Submariner is still the one dive watch to beat. Sure, there are plenty of fantastic alternatives out there, some cheaper, some easier to buy, but none quite have the same set of specs, heritage, and legacy as the Submariner.

After all these years, the Submariner still feels worth it. It’s a watch you’ll never regret owning, one that collectors keep coming back to, and one that will still look just as good decades from now. Is it the only dive watch that matters? Of course not. But is it one of the best? Yeah, I’d say so.