Introduction

With the watch industry’s current preference for more svelte proportions, classic watches are having their day in the sun.

Often affectionately referred to as “geezer watches” for their resemblance to the sort of thing you’d spot on the wrist of a kindly old man puttering around the golf course, this genre nonetheless holds profound appeal for all ages thanks to its synthesis of vintage design and modern craftsmanship.

Many of the most elegant and well-known watches find themselves firmly ensconced within this category, from the Patek Philippe Calatrava to more modern creations by brands like Parmigiani Fleurier.

Whether you’re looking for that next oh-so-debonair dress watch or just here for a listing of some of the best watches ever made all in one article, you came to the right place.

Classic watches are having their moment, and it’s time to put the spotlight on the very best of the best to celebrate this fine horological tradition.

What to Know for Buying Classic Watches

Any true classic watch is designed not to be brash or eye-catching, but to repose calmly and with self-assurance on your wrist. They’re not meant to be loud like an MB&F Horological Machine or even something more simple like an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Instead, a classic watch is designated by the quality of craftsmanship that permeates each of its features, from the visible ones to even the finest parts of the movement. It riffs on traditional design elements in new combinations and layouts to make something strikingly new.

This quality of craftsmanship includes several specific details that I want to encourage you to keep an eye out for when you’re looking at any classic watch, whether it’s one of the ones I’ve got on this list or your own future searches.

First up, you’ll want to pay special attention to the quality of material used. Gold and platinum are not uncommonly seen forming the case of fine classic watches, thanks to the intrinsic value that they bring.

In particular, white gold and platinum watches can be considered the “essence” of a good classic watch, as they supply a sense of confidence and value to the watch that cannot be discerned at first glance due to their resemblance to steel.

The best classic watches will have well-finished cases from fine precious metals, usually in a 14K or 18K grade to maintain some durability.

After the material of the case, you’ll want to look at the degree of finishing that adorns the movement and the dial. High-quality, handmade finishing takes a master artisan hours to complete, but its effect is positively radiant and it adds a significant amount to the value of any watch.

The finishing of a classic watch is arguably even more important than that of other watches, as these are meant to be high-value pieces with long-lasting appeal attained by artisanal craftsmanship.

Finally, a little bit of real talk. Though in theory a watch should stand entirely on its own merits, the brand name that is attached to it often plays a key role in establishing the value of each watch, and this is all the more true for simply and classically-styled watches.

A good classic watch is designed to be timeless and enduring, something that you can pass down to the next generation (as Patek Philippe has famously adopted for their slogan), and for such a timepiece to retain its value, it must be associated with a brand name that has a history of producing beautiful and valuable watches.

As such, if you pay careful attention to the materials, the finishing, and the brand of each watch, it’s nearly impossible to go wrong. Your next classic watch awaits—let’s get right into the list!

The 15 Best Classic Watches

Now that introductions are made, let’s jump right into the article! Each one of these watches will be evaluated according to the qualities that I set forth above, typically with special thought to pointing out things that you might have missed and leaving the others up to your scrutiny.

Each one of these watches represents the pinnacle of horological classicism: it’s hard to do better than a watch from this list, or one similar.

Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 ref. 26396NB.OO.D002KB.01 – Price on Request

There’s very, very little in AP’s catalog that’s even slightly suggestive of being classic. From the sports watch genre-defining Royal Oak to the avant-garde Code 11.59s, I was pretty sure I was going to have to rule out the watchmaker from Le Brassus from this listing.

And then I stumbled across this reference which I’d forgotten, a marvelously elegant timepiece featuring a rich black onyx dial and a sublime minimalism of text and other adornment.

Don’t be fooled by that white-metal case: it’s high-quality 18K white gold, and it’s paired with black ceramic that serves to highlight the darkness of the dial.

Flip the watch over, and you’ll be regaled with just as much of a treat as the front: Audemars Piguet’s exquisite cal. 2950, with a stunning flying tourbillon, automatic winding, and a 65-hour power reserve. Oh, and the finishing is flawless. Just be careful you don’t get sucked into that black hole of a dial!

A. Lange & Söhne Grand Lange 1 ref. 137.033 – Price on Request

At first glance, the Lange 1 seems to defy standard conceptions of classicism in watches. After all, you’ve got subdials seemingly scattered over the face of the watch and a large date window.

And yet as you examine it, the layout of this elegant German timepiece reveals itself to be deeply traditional in feel.

This is thanks to the classical design principles A. Lange & Söhne followed in its creation: the golden ratio and axial arrangement, using a proportional triangular layout to guide your eye.

Indeed, that traditional structure paired here with an exquisite pink gold case and rich gray dial makes for an elegant watch that is also strikingly practical thanks to its date window and power reserve.

The movement on the inside, a key element for any classic watch, is capable of going toe-to-toe with such horological heavyweights as a Patek Philippe: it’s exquisitely finished and crafted from German silver, which acquires a warm patina with the progression of time.

Gold châtons, blued screws, and Glashütte stripes are completed by a classic German touch: a hand-engraved balance cock. This is the pinnacle of classicism complemented by original design.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds Pink Gold – $41,300

This new-to-2025 stunner is one of the few cases where the bracelet is almost as superb as the watch itself. Just take a look at the elegance of that Milanese mesh, crafted like the case from 18K pink gold and woven to attain unmatched suppleness and ease of motion.

The dial is simple, clean, and minimal, but spectacularly finished with a rich matte texture. And just like any other Reverso, you can flip it over to protect the dial and reveal the smooth metal caseback, a field perfect for personal engraving.

Though the movement is obscured, you can be assured that it’s of the highest quality, JLC’s in-house caliber 822 with 42 hours of power reserve and such remarkable thinness that allows this reversible watch to clock in at just 7.56mm thick overall, making for an easy under-cuff companion.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5227J-001 – $44,870

This is the classic watch. The ultimate, the pinnacle of what a round dress watch should be. The ultimate purity of line and simplicity: a Patek Philippe Calatrava. Specifically, this stunning model in yellow gold, with a hinged officer caseback to protect the movement.

In many ways, it’s perfect. An exquisitely polished yellow gold case pairs with a gently gold-toned dial, complemented by an unobtrusive framed date window.

It’s simple, but its complexity is revealed as you begin to go deeper. That doré dial? Lacquered ivory. Those elegant hands and hour markers? Applied and polished by hand by master artisans. Everything executed to perfection.

Not satisfied with just the case and dial? Don’t worry, the movement will placate you. It’s a Patek Philippe, so it’s one of the finest imaginable: the caliber 26-330 S C, with automatic winding, 45 hours of power reserve, and perfect finishing. You won’t be able to resist popping open that officer caseback from time to time just to have a look!

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel – $33,890

To be fair, this H. Moser is not exactly what comes to mind when a watch lover says “classic.” But in my defense, that’s kinda the point: H. Moser loves to push against expectations and create elegant and striking timepieces just like this one.

Sure, it may be a steel case rather than precious metal. And the dial may be far from the simplicity that some of the others on this list take pride in.

But that stunning centerpiece, rich purple fumé enamel over a hammered metal base to form the dial, is a masterpiece of traditional technique and classical watchmaking. 

Flip it over, and you’ll have my final proof of its classicism: the stunning caliber HMC 201, an automatic movement with 72 hours of power reserve and stunning finishing.

Though it may be colored strikingly with pink gold accents on dark rhodium plating, it’s a beautifully executed movement that exudes tradition.

Cartier Tank Américaine Yellow Gold – $17,300

I’ve been having a bit of a thing lately for the Tank Américaine, and it’s not hard to see why. It takes a superb classic—the original Cartier Tank—and riffs on it just enough to create another icon altogether.

It’s quintessential Cartier and oozes classicism: just take a look at the finely crafted yellow gold case, sapphire-set crown, Roman numerals, and blued sword hands.

Its simplicity means Cartier has a chance to perfect every imaginable detail: for example, the Tank Américaine is known for the surprising curvature of its case, which allows it to adhere perfectly to the wrist.

Underneath the hood, you won’t have quite as much to write home about as many of the others on this list, but it’s still Cartier’s automatic caliber 1899 MC, with quite decent finishing and an amply-sized balance wheel.

But if you’re buying a Cartier, you’re buying design and style, and thankfully, the Tank Américaine has that in spades.

Lorier Neptune Series IV – $500

And now for something totally different! The Lorier Neptune is a bit out of place on this list, considering both its price tag and its design, but rest assured, this is a classic watch through and through.

It was designed as if it came straight out of the 1950s, gilt accents and all. Thanks to its shockingly slim price tag, it fits perfectly in the “fun” category that should have a place in any collection: a classic, vintage-inspired piece that you can pick up for less than a tenth the price of a more serious watch from this list.

The movement here is nothing too special—a Miyota 90S5—but honestly, for its price, it’s a little astonishing that it’s even mechanical at all, let alone a brand-name, automatic Japanese movement.

This is classic 50’s design at its peak in a modern watch, and frankly, it’s probably the best-looking diver you’ll see all day.

Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Minute Repeater – Price on Request

Like A. Lange above, Jaquet Droz has played ever so slightly with the standard conception of “classic” watch design while managing to produce something that continues to feel profoundly traditional.

Here, they’ve paired their lovely Grande Seconde design—where the seconds subdial is actually larger than the standard one—with a superbly crafted minute repeater to chime out the time on demand. 

Inside, that minute repeater is made possible by Jaquet Droz’s cal. 2635, an automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve.

The movement is beautifully finished, and the oscillating rotor features an exquisite guilloché pattern that you could easily spend half an hour studying on its own.

My favorite touch? The way the ivory-colored enamel dial and the subtle treble clef sign by the minute repeater slider combine to evoke the artistry of a well-made piano. I don’t know about you, but as a musician… that’s just music to my ears.

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 ref. 220.037 – $24,500

Here’s another beautiful example of Lange doing what they do best: making stunning classic timepieces. In this case, we’ve stripped away all the fluff of the Grand Lange 1 we looked at earlier.

This is a pure, time-only dress watch, with Lange’s trademark alpha hands and a classy small seconds subdial. Everything is executed perfectly, with class and charm.

It’s hard to find more to discuss in-depth on the dial side, but I personally guarantee that with the watch in hand, you’ll find it nothing short of exceptionally well-done.

Turn the watch around, and you’re treated to yet another display of why A. Lange & Söhne is spoken of with the utmost respect in collector circles.

This may be a time-only watch, but the gorgeous finishing here is anything but simple. Anyone who knows what they’re looking at is guaranteed to drool over this exhibition of the utmost artistry: Glashütte stripes, hand-engraved balance cock, free-sprung hairspring, gold châtons, blued screws, mirror-polished swan neck regulator—must I go on?

Felipe Pikullik Sternenhimmel – $14,000

If I was given free rein to design my own dress watch, it would end up looking something an awful lot like this. (I know, because I’ve tried.)

In many ways, the Sternenhimmel (German for “starry sky”) is an ode to the beautiful simplicity of classic watchmaking, while breathing new life into it through a modern lens.

Take, for example, the dial: it’s not enamel or guilloché, it’s fine aventurine, a man-made glass that mimics the appearance of the night sky and, in this author’s opinion, provides a far richer surface to look at than any simple enamel color. 

That same theme continues even more profoundly on the back, where you can see the stunning contrast of black rhodium-plated bridges against the stunning gold of the wheels.

The eagle-eyed among us will of course recognize here a Saxonian watchmaking staple: the hand-engraved balance cock.

Don’t let yourself miss as well the rich anglage that adorns each of the skeletonized bridges: the true mark, above all others, of haute horlogerie finishing.

Patek Philippe 5236P-010 – $148,331

“Classic” and “Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar” are words often spoken in the same breath. At least, while I’m talking, that is. In this case, the stunning reference 5236P-010 puts a modern spin on the maison known best for their QPs.

Here, the salmon dial and black faceted indices and hands that feature to such great effect in Patek’s new Calatrava make an equally stunning showing framing this minimalistic calendar display.

Moon phase, day, date, month, leap year, and even day/night indication can all be found from the various small windows carved into this lovely salmon canvas.

“But what of the movement?” I hear you cry, slavering for more. Fear not, for it is worthy of the six-figure price tag (as much as any watch can be, that is).

Patek’s in-house caliber 31-260 PS QL features a platinum micro-rotor to keep it slim and some beautifully executed anglage and Côtes de Genève. It’s a Patek, what did you expect?

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 Pink Gold

Bouncing from one member of the watchmaking Holy Trinity to another, we’ve got ourselves here another prime example of classic watchmaking executed in a profoundly vintage style.

Here on full display, both in terms of the actual watch and its name, are the cornes de vache lugs, or cow horns. They complement the dial perfectly and help the watch to spread out more over the wrist, not to mention looking pretty dang good themselves.

When you’re done looking at the lugs, you might notice that you’ve also got a pretty good-looking opaline dial with a chronograph and a tachymeter for calculating average speed… but then again, you might not.

On the flip side, you’ve got an absolutely stunning movement, a dynamic mass of gears, levers, and bridges that forms the architecture of Vacheron’s column-wheel chronograph.

It’s so good that it’s received the official Geneva Seal from the city of Geneva for being made according to traditional principles and featuring exquisite finishing.

On that latter note, be sure not to miss the gorgeous anglage—it’s on full display here, perfectly executed on just about every possible surface.

Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-rotor Evergreen – $87,950

Laurent Ferrier is one of those independent brands that’s becoming increasingly mainstream, and for good reason: its offerings, across its four collections, are characterized by a strong design language that’s instantly recognizable and beautifully captivating.

In particular, you’ll be struck by the gorgeous shaping of the case, which has a unique fluidity of line, and the special assegai spear hands, an instantly recognizable trademark of the brand.

All of this complements flawlessly with the rich and smooth green of the dial, which is faintly brushed to achieve a subtle matte finish.

The finishing on every Laurent Ferrier is characteristic of a man whose career was marked by 37 years spent at Patek Philippe. Everything, down to the finest imaginable detail, is exquisitely done.

Every French finishing term you can imagine is thrown into the mix here, so much so that I dare not list them all. I encourage you to merely regard it for yourself—it is quite nearly beyond words.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde Rose Gold – $59,027

I’m head-over-heels in love with Parmigiani Fleurier’s vision of watchmaking, and with this piece in particular. It was conceived following the exacting principles of the golden ratio, which seems particularly apt for a timepiece characterized by such a perfect golden hue.

At first glance, you’d be forgiven for writing the dial off as just a simple matte finish—but look closer, and an extremely fine grenage pattern is revealed, a variant of a frosted finish.

Likewise, many fine details of superb craftsmanship reveal themselves in the refined shape of the alpha hands and the pronounced engravings of the knurled bezel.

That same attention to detail extends itself just as much to the movement as it does to the watch’s façade. The PF780 movement is positively superb, with each of its solid gold(!) bridges decorated with the unique Côtes de Fleurier pattern.

In typically Parmigiani Fleurier fashion, they’ve chosen to obscure almost all the gears with ample bridges, leaving their spectacular craftsmanship humbly hidden from view. What is visible, thankfully, is more than enough to please the eye of even the most jaded watch collector.

Breguet Classique Souscription 2025 – $53,600

Closing out the list, we have another new-to-2025 watch to prove that it’s been a spectacular year for classic watchmaking.

The Breguet Souscription is as classic as it gets, as it was inspired by the souscription pocket watches famously made by the brand’s eponymous founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet. As such, only a single hand adorns the dial, which is itself beautifully printed with enamel Breguet numerals. 

But the movement is where things get really fun. The movement, just like the dial, is inspired by Breguet’s souscription pocket watch, which makes it traditional and classic in the fullest sense.

Each gear receives its own individual bridge, and the ample barrel is engraved with writing in handwriting taken from one of Breguet’s letters. In my humble opinion, this is the best movement on this list, and perhaps the best we’ll see all year.

Conclusion

Classic watches are having their day in the sun, and it’s time to celebrate that. Whether you’ve found your next addition to your collection on this list or you’re just here to enjoy some gorgeous watches, I hope you go forth satisfied. And let’s be honest… as a watch lover, what more could you ask for?

When it comes to luxury watches, people typically want to make sure they look the same for years, even decades. The most valuable are locked up in safe vaults, never again to see the light of day until they emerge half a century later to be put up for auction. 

After all, who wants to risk putting a scratch mark on their latest several-thousand-dollar acquisition? It’s something you almost always have running through the back of your mind as a luxury watch owner: keep your arms in, don’t risk hitting your watch on anything!

That manner of thinking is exactly why I find bronze watches so interesting. Unlike any other style of watch, bronze watches are encouraged to change, age, and patina over time. That’s almost the entire point of the watch. 

Every mark, every speck of patina, is a badge of honor for a bronze watch. If you’re looking for something unique and special, something clearly distinct from all the rest of the watches that can so easily seem to run together and all look the same, a bronze watch is just what the doctor ordered.

What to Know About Bronze Watches

Before we get into the listing, there are a few things you should know about how your future bronze watch will act and look in different conditions. First of all, there are two different types of bronze, which is a metal alloy of copper and one other metal. 

The first type is tin bronze, or CuSn (with different proportions of Sn, or tin, in the chemical formula depending on the specific type). The other is aluminum bronze, which uses aluminum in place of tin. The two are similar in most regards, but I do want to touch on a few of the differences briefly. 

Tin bronze has a little bit more of a warmer tone to it, and is the type of bronze that has been used historically (such as in the famous Bronze Age), while aluminum bronze is harder and more modern.

Tin bronze also oxidizes more quickly than the aluminum variant. As such, you can find watches in either type of bronze depending on your specific needs for the watch.

Each bronze watch will slowly but surely develop a unique and special patina, much like you’d see from any bronze sculpture or statue outside. This is typically in a black or dark brown color, which gradually overlays the bronze underneath to change its color. 

I called it “unique” just a moment ago because it actually is just that: no two bronze watches will look quite the same because of the different patina pattern that each acquires over time, which is a result of the environment it’s exposed to and the composition of the bronze alloy. However, this isn’t the only type of patina that bronze watches can develop. 

There’s also verdigris, which is the bright aquamarine discoloration that you see on the Statue of Liberty and bronze objects that are more exposed to water. Verdigris isn’t an oxide, so it doesn’t just develop when your watch is exposed to air. 

Rather, it’s produced by the chemical reaction of copper with other compounds like acids and chlorides. It creates an extremely striking effect, and works really well on dive watches to create the image of a watch that has been submerged underwater for a long time.

You do want to be a little careful with this one though, as verdigris can be toxic if you ingest it—although it should be fine on your skin. Just don’t start licking your patinated watch! 

If you’re into this look, however, the best thing you can do for it is go for a lovely salt-water swim (yes, this is me telling you to take a vacation), as the chlorides in salt will react splendidly to form the verdigris you’re looking for.

As a final note, I do want to talk about avoiding patina entirely, or “resetting” it. It’s actually possible to regularly clean your bronze watch without harming it, since the oxidation layer that forms is strictly on the surface level and no deeper. 

If you like the color of bronze and want to avoid patina on your watch, you can clean it using lemon juice or, better yet, a paste made of lemon juice and baking soda.

You’ll want to use a toothbrush, your fingers, or a cloth to apply it to the outside of the watch (don’t just submerge it!) and then gently rub over patinated areas to remove any marks on the bronze. 

This will return your watch back to a lovely bright and shiny state, which means it’s also a great technique to use if you’ve just bought a bronze watch secondhand and you want to “reset” its patina to be unique to you.

The 15 Best Bronze Watches

Now that you know what to look for and how to take care of your future bronze watch, let’s get right into the listing here! There’s something for every interest and budget here, so take your pick, because there’s no right or wrong in watches: only what interests you!

Zelos Aurora Field 38mm BR “Teal Mop” – $500

Zelos has kind of made bronze their thing, so I figured what better place to start off this list than with an affordable and yet striking Zelos field watch? This “Teal Mop” (your guess is as good as mine as to the name) features a tin bronze (CuSn₈) case and a particularly lovely mother-of-pearl dial with a teal fumé color applied to it. 

Even the buckle of the rubber strap it comes on will patina, and Zelos offers additional bronze bracelets for an extra $199. Considering that there are very few other bronze watches out there that also come with a bronze bracelet, I’d definitely give that option some serious thought.

Despite the reduced price, this Zelos runs on an automatic 9-series Miyota movement, the 9039, which is a strong workhorse option used by a lot of smaller brands. Nothing to write home about here, but it gets the job done and avoids falling into the temptation of quartz to save money. That’s all I could ask for.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire Bronze – $7,100

If you get your hands on this watch, I’ll promise you one thing: the patina is going to look incredible. Please don’t polish it! The pairing of dark brown patina, forest green sunray dial, and rich brown strap is just about as close to perfect for a bronze watch as you can get. This is one that was made, without a doubt, with patina in mind, and it shows to excellent effect.

I’m a huge fan of almost everything about this watch: those chronograph pushers, for example, are superbly proportioned; the dial is large and legible; the lozenge hands are perfectly executed and sumptuously lumed. If you’re looking for a textbook pilot’s watch, this is it.

Tucked safely behind the closed caseback, you’ll find ticking away inside the in-house IWC caliber 69380, a superb column-wheel chronograph with automatic winding and a 46-hour power reserve. 

If there was anything else you could possibly ask for, it’d be magnetic resistance—but IWC has you covered there too, with a soft-iron cage surrounding the movement to protect it.

Like the fighter jet it’s named for, the Spitfire will be both the workhorse and the most memorable member of your watch collection.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze – $4,800

Here we have our first bronze dive watch, which is in my personal opinion the best genre to allow bronze to shine. After all, if you allow the watch to live out its purpose as a companion on swims and dives, it’ll not only patina quickly but also develop those stunning pops of verdigris as well. 

Admittedly, however, as much as I am a supporter of allowing bronze to patina, I also love the pairing of the rich bronze color and the slate gray bezel and dial. You really can’t go wrong either way here—both just bring such a beautiful look to the watch. This is a beautiful timepiece no matter what you do to it.

Under the hood, you couldn’t really ask for anything better: Tudor’s in-house caliber MT5601 supplies you with the time with extreme precision since it’s chronometer-certified by COSC. It does one thing, and it does it well. 

You won’t be able to admire its steadfast ticking since the caseback is closed, but you’ll surely see the fruits of its labor every day. The MT5601 can run for about 70 hours straight, and will stay topped up anytime you wear it thanks to automatic winding.

Bremont Argonaut Bronze Blue Dial – $4,200

You don’t see a lot of internal-bezel dive watches these days. Actually, you don’t see a lot of Bremonts either, but that shouldn’t be taken as a reflection of their quality. These are some really solid British-made timepieces, and the Argonaut in particular is one of their finest. 

It’s made as a military watch, inspired in particular by the original Dirty Dozen watches made during WWII for the British military. Since bronze forms a strong oxidation layer on the outside of the metal, it’s actually great for use in naval applications as that layer serves as a protection for the rest of the metal. 

As such, the Argonaut Bronze remains not only strikingly beautiful but also particularly pertinent to its military heritage. The blue dial is extremely legible for any diving use, and both the hands and indices are treated with Super-LumiNova for that much-needed nighttime glow. 

Do note that to use the internal bezel, you’ll want to make use of the watch’s upper crown, while the lower is for setting the (very accurate and chronometer-certified) time. 

Inside, you’ll find the modified caliber BE-92AV, which has all the bells and whistles including a strong 38-hour power reserve, Nivaflex mainspring, Anachron hairspring, and Glucydur balance wheel—all three of which are alloys specifically designed to make each part of the movement run better in all sorts of conditions, especially temperature variations.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Bronze – $1,300

Another bronze-and-blue diver! There’s just something about that color pairing that works so well for bronze watches, and looks absolutely spectacular here. I love the rich blue ombré lacquer paired with the rose gold indices and hands, which help to pull out the rich tones in the bronze. 

In particular, I can’t help but smile when I see the trident-shaped counterweight on the seconds hand, which could very easily have looked tacky but because of its craftsmanship and style actually is particularly striking.

In a rarity for bronze-cased watches, this one actually features an exhibition caseback, which provides a glimpse at the Sellita SW200 movement inside, which is also COSC-certified, automatic, and has a 38-hour power reserve.

The rest of the caseback that isn’t sapphire is also made from steel, so your skin doesn’t have to be much in contact with the patinated bronze.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition – $7,100

Limited to 1858 pieces, this Montblanc is a beautifully classy timepiece dedicated to exploration, which you should be able to discern at a glance thanks to the fascinating and pioneering way that Montblanc has chosen to represent the world timezones, via two rotating globes at 12:00 and 6:00. 

I particularly love the cathedral-style hands, which are reminiscent of other exploration watches like the Hamilton Khaki Field, as well as the compass bezel—which yes, you can actually use to find north.

Another fine detail you’ll be sure to appreciate with this watch are the unobtrusive red dots marked on each of the world time indicators, which show the location of the seven mountains that make up the Seven Summit mountaineering challenge.

Flipping the watch over, you’ll be treated to an enameled depiction of the desert, which is the inspiration for the color palette of the watch. It’s framed by the engraved names of each of the Seven Summit mountains, as well as the typical hallmarks. 

If you had X-ray vision, you’d probably be able to see the caliber MB29.25 beating away behind that enameled painting, but since you don’t (or do you?), I’ll just have to tell you about it.

It’s based on the Sellita SW300, but of course has been upgraded with the complication that features both of the world time discs that was developed by Montblanc’s watchmakers. 

It also has automatic winding and a 42-hour power reserve, making for a quality ébauche worthy of the high-quality watch that frames it.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Bronze – $1,465

Fun fact about me that nobody asked for: my great-aunt used to work for Hamilton, so I have a particularly soft spot for the ex-American-turned-Swiss brand. That said, it doesn’t take a soft heart to be particularly fond of this exceptional watch. 

It’s extremely subtly done, from the glossy black dive bezel to the fine circular brushing on the case to the beautifully textured matte black dial at the center of it all.

Interestingly, to keep a monochromatic color palette, Hamilton opted to keep even the lume color in an aged yellow, a choice I find curious and yet appealing.

The movement, visible through the exhibition caseback, is rather surprisingly industrial, with its large broad bridges and even straight graining. In that sense, I guess it suits the rest of the watch: utilitarian and purpose-built, even though it still has touches of elegance.

If you’re looking to put a name to it, it’s actually the ETA 6498-1, with special finishing and engraving for Hamilton.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze Green Dial on Bracelet- $3,200

There’s something both vintage and romantic about a pointer date, a watch that shows the date using a hand mounted at the center of the dial instead of a window on the side.

Oris has perfectly capitalized on that old-time charm with a gorgeous green dial and lovely large cathedral hands, as well as, of course, that beautiful bronze case. 

There’s something about the fluted bezel and domed crystal that captivates me: it completes the watch by adding something I can’t express.

But my favorite part? That gorgeous bronze bracelet, sure to acquire the finest patina imaginable since parts of it will be rubbed cleaner by friction and others allowed to develop that beautiful dark brown glow.

Oris’ curious pointer date complication is driven by their caliber 754, which is simple and straightforward but gets the job done perfectly. 38 hours of power reserve and automatic winding? Check. Instantaneous date changeover? Check. Hacking seconds? Check. The cal. 754 passes with flying colors!

Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown – $720

Just one glance at this Baltic Aquascaphe, after the rest of the watches we’ve examined, should be enough to make you curious.

Yes, you’re right—the bronze case is more of a brassy color than the others! That’s because this one is made from aluminum bronze, the variant that patinates more slowly and is much harder and resistant to bumps and knocks. 

Rest assured, however, that it will patina, just with a delayed progression. My favorite part of this watch, though, is that gorgeous brown dial, which evokes vintage “tropical” dials to play off the antique appeal of bronze.

I know some people hate the look of the “fauxtina” in the hands here, but I think it just completes this vintage-style watch.

Just like the Zelos (#1) above, this Baltic makes use of the Miyota 9039 to power its hands. Nothing else to add here that I didn’t mention there, except that here the closed caseback is engraved with a lovely little depiction of a diver for the Aquascaphe line. Enough said!

Zelos Skyraider Bronze Meteorite – $1,099

Sometimes I get a craving for something fully and totally unique. In that mood, no amount of “bronze patina is unique, Marcus!” can get to me. It is, sure, but I need something a little more. If that’s ever you, this next Zelos is for you. 

Not only will its lovely reddish bronze case patinate, but its meteorite dial is also completely unique to you, since it’s cut from a real meteorite and will have unique patterns. Even the hands are in a unique style, thanks to the interesting way that they’re skeletonized. 

Inside, the ETA 6498 is beautifully finished with blued screws, Côtes de Genève, and an anthracite PVD coating to give it that blackened coloring. This one is manual-wind only, which allows you to admire the lovely finishing with nothing in the way as well as interact with your watch each day as you wind it up.

Panerai Submersible Bronzo Blu Abisso – $15,900

We’re now firmly in an entirely different price tier when it comes to bronze watches, but this Panerai Submersible is a spectacular timepiece that certainly merits its cost. 

Not only is it an original spin on one of the most iconic and recognizable watches of all time, but it’s a nearly perfectly executed dive watch that can accompany you all the way down to 300 meters underwater, if you choose to put it through its paces. 

In particular, that large and full cushion case will acquire a superb patina over its extended surface, which will really make this unique watch feel like an artifact from the deep.

Through the exhibition caseback, you’ll be treated to Panerai’s in-house caliber P.900, an automatic-winding movement with a power reserve of an astonishing 3 days without any need to rewind it.

It’s one of the best things about this already-spectacular watch, and shows why Panerai is world-renowned for their divers.

Venezianico Redentore Bronzo – $750

The price tag here has come crashing back down to earth after that Panerai, and yet for the price you still have an absolutely superb bronze timepiece. It was inspired, or so the brand says, by the Four Horses of St. Mark in Venice, the home of Italian microbrand Venezianico. 

If, like me, you’d have to resort to a Google search to picture what we’re talking about here, it’s a sculpture of four bronze horses originally created in ancient Greece which now adorns St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice—hence the name. The best part of this watch, though, isn’t the heritage. 

It’s that exceptional and unique dial, which is crafted from a brass disc that’s been bronzed and patinated, then slightly treated with abrasive material to reveal the underlying metal in places. This process creates a beautiful and unique texture which complements the bronze case, and its later patina, perfectly.

The caseback is adorned with a lovely engraved depiction of the Four Horses that I referred to above, and behind it, we have that trusty old Miyota 9039 that we’ve already seen make an appearance twice before in this article! Nothing more needs to be said about it here—it’s a great movement, and there’s a reason so many brands use it.

Longines Legend Diver Bronze Green Dial – $3,125

I get it. You’re looking for a brand name. Something with a little extra oomph behind it, as compared to a microbrand. An assurance of quality, really. But not with such a big price tag! Here’s just the one for you, my dear imaginary friend: the superb Swiss-made Legend Diver by Longines. 

It’s got all the class and charm you’re looking for, including a brilliantly-executed internal bezel. The dial is so rich and pairs perfectly both with the bronze of the natural case and the patina of a watch that’s been allowed to age gracefully with time.

Even the hands are quite lovely, and to my eyes the hour hand evokes a harpoon as if to further conjure up a bygone age of diving.

The caseback perhaps reinforces my harpoon theory, thanks to its charming little engraving of a diver holding a harpoon as he descends further into the murky depths of the sea. Behind the closed caseback, you’ll find Longines’ caliber L888, which is based on the ETA A31.L11. 

It’s perfect for all your diving and daily-wear needs thanks to its automatic winding and prodigious 72-hour power reserve. It’s a diver that deserves to be a staple in any collection!

Formex Reef Radiant Bronze COSC 300M – $2,065

You’re probably noticing by now that something looks a little different about this one. No, your eyes aren’t deceiving you, that really is a steel case. I wanted to change things up a little bit here by including a bronze dial watch. 

Unlike other bronze watches, however, this Formex has been treated with a lacquer to prevent it from oxidizing, so if you enjoy the natural luster of bronze, this is without a doubt the watch for you. It’s on full display in that gorgeous dial, which just pops in such a lovely and striking way against the black bezel.

The closed caseback, engraved with an interesting wavy pattern, conceals a Sellita SW300-1, another COSC-certified chronometer with automatic winding and a prodigious 56-hour power reserve.

If you could see it, you’d surely also appreciate the custom skeletonized rotor and heat-blued screws used on the movement, but you’ll just have to rest secure in the knowledge that inside your watch is something of real quality, whether you can see it or not.

Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold – $14,300

As a final means of changing things up before we exit this list for good, I’d like to introduce you to this lovely Seamaster 300, crafted in Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold alloy.

Bronze Gold, as the name suggests, is composed of 37.5% gold, which is around 9K in purity, and is also mixed with palladium and silver. This combination gives it a gently rosy tone and also ensures that it will never acquire a verdigris patina. 

It does patinate just like any other bronze, apart from the verdigris, except at a much slower rate, allowing you to easily clean this watch more frequently if you wish to keep its bronze color or alternatively watch a more gradual progression as it ages. The rest of the watch, let me hasten to add, is gorgeous, with a deeply vintage feel that isn’t too in-your-face. 

All of the indices and markers on the dial are made out of tin bronze, so they’ll acquire a patina more rapidly than the rest of the case and end up in a lovely rich brown color.

Inside, you’ve got probably the best movement you’ll see all day, Omega’s caliber 8912, which is a METAS-certified Master Chronometer with—get this—the Co-Axial escapement.

I’m a bit of a geek for the Co-Axial, as it was originally invented by the brilliant George Daniels and now finds its home in many Omega watches. 

It’s one of the best escapements invented in decades, if not centuries, and it’s part of what helps this caliber earn such a prestigious accuracy rating. It’s also automatic and has a solid 60-hour power reserve to boot. It doesn’t get better than that, trust me.

Conclusion

There you have it! 15 of the finest bronze watches ever made, each one of them as unique as you are. Whether you’re a diver looking for something that reminds you of the aquamarine sea or a lover of patina in watches, bronze is perfect for you. You can even keep it shiny if you want! The choice is yours.