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best designer watches

Designer watches have always had a bit of a stigma around them in the watchmaking world. For a while, admittedly, it was rather well-deserved.

Any good watch must be constructed with both an eye for its design and an eye for its mechanics. That’s what makes watchmaking totally unique: it’s a synthesis of art and engineering, of creativity in both forms. 

Old designer watches completely neglected mechanical advancement, for the most part. They looked beautiful or eye-catching from the outside, but on the inside was a throwaway quartz movement. Little wonder they were so rejected by the watch community!

However, times are changing (wink), and designer fashion brands have increasingly looked to beef up their watchmaking department with some serious mechanical chops.

Suddenly, those elegant watches that previously ticked on an ugly old quartz movement are running on gorgeous mechanical ébauches and even feature advanced complications. 

Brands like Louis Vuitton and their watchmaking manufacture La Fabrique du Temps are leading the charge, and it’s time to take notice. Allow me to introduce you to the 12 best designer watches of today.

History of Designer Watches

I touched on the rather dubious past of designer watches in my introduction, and I want to more fully flesh out how this section of the industry has drastically changed before we get into the best designer watches you can get your hands on today.

A quick Google or eBay search for “vintage designer watches” will get you a full list of rather inexpensive picks from brand names that we usually associate with the very heights of luxury: Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, and Chanel, among others. 

Unfortunately, it’s not without reason that these watches are changing hands for so cheap. Many of them were practically cash-cow products for some of these brands, where simply slapping a logo on the dial was enough to make fashion obsessives buy them and wear them proudly.

Around the turn of the millennium, however, things started to change quickly. Louis Vuitton introduced their Tambour collection in 2002 and Chanel the Chiffre Rouge in 2004, among others. 

Perhaps most notable of all was Louis Vuitton’s 2011 acquisition of La Fabrique du Temps, a watchmaking manufacture started by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini, after working with them on several projects since their founding in 2007.

Now, you can find haute horlogerie offerings from almost any fashion brand, alongside beautiful mechanical watches with well-finished movements and elegant design. 

Suddenly, all their design expertise is married to mechanical prowess, and it makes for a killer combo that you really can’t miss.

The 12 Best Designer Watches

Without further ado, let’s get right into the very finest of these designer watches available today. We’re looking at all the best brands and all the best watchmaking offerings, so there’s something for everyone here, whether you’re looking for the next watch to add to your collection or just reading for interest. Enjoy!

Gucci G-Flat 36mm in Steel with Black Dial

Gucci G-Flat 36mm in Steel with Black Dial

Not to be confused with its identical twin, the F-sharp (sorry, bad music pun), the G-Flat 36mm is a truly refreshing and new design from perhaps the most well-known name in fashion.

At $2,650, it’s a lovely, affordable sports watch with a customized automatic movement and case structure that clearly takes cues from its notable predecessors like the Cartier Santos and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

The black opaline dial at its heart is minimalistic and clean, and the color-matched date window is a great modern touch to build on the watch’s clean elegance.

The G-Flat collection was first introduced in the 1970s, making it a long-lasting style that has only grown in popularity and in watchmaking prowess since its inception. 

My only gripe is the rather limited 50m of water resistance: any true sports watch should be able to go anywhere and do anything (or, as watch nerds fondly term it, a GADA watch), and with such limited water resistance you’ll really need to be hesitant about taking it for a swim. Such is the price of fashion, I suppose.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Automatic 40mm Steel

Louis Vuitton Tambour Automatic 40mm Steel

At $18,900, the LV Tambour is a much higher-end sports watch than the G-Flat, but it sure does show in the quality of its movement and construction. Its iconic eponymous drum-shaped case is elegantly brushed to create a soft shine. 

The bezel bears another familiar Louis Vuitton signature—the brand name itself, in raised engraved letters that manage to not feel too in-your-face.

The dial has a lovely monochromatic blue-on-blue palette that accentuates the watch’s restrained style while providing a rich and legible surface on which to read the time. 

It also has a much richer depth than most other dials you’ll see: the applied numerals are rather tall, and really stand out proudly from the multi-leveled sector construction of the dial below.

Finally, the bracelet feels strongly neo-vintage, with a bold style made up of practically just single links seamlessly integrated into the case. It’s not for nothing that this watch is Louis Vuitton’s best-known.

Dior Chiffre Rouge Black Ultramatte Steel

Dior Chiffre Rouge Black Ultramatte Steel

The Chiffre Rouge is a totally different look from both of the other watches we’ve looked at already here, but no less eye-catching and horologically advanced.

Its 38mm blacked-out case is wearable and a serious attention-grabber, and the rest of the watch doesn’t let go of your eyes for a moment as you examine it. The 4:00 crown is drastically oversized, with bright red accents—it’s clearly unmissable. 

The dial has a fascinating cannage motif, which is so complex visually as to nearly defy any resolution into a consistent pattern. And imposed over this engraving is a soft gradient from that same bright red to a deep black.

All the while, the date window—bearing the eponymous red number, 8, on the eighth of every month—is proudly double-framed by eye-catching red lines. It’s not a watch for the faint of heart, to say the least, but its price is at least bearable at $10,500.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Pink Gold

Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence Pink Gold

The vintage-inspired Tambour Convergence was one of the most eye-catching watches to be unveiled at Watches & Wonders in 2025, and it sure is a stunner. It’s inspired by vintage montres à guichet, watches that had a sort of digital-style display through just a few small windows in the watch.

Cartier notably just reintroduced their Tank à Guichets in the same style. The Tambour Convergence, however, manages to recreate this design in a manner that feels refreshingly modern. 

The hours and minutes are indicated by a small diamond shape between the two rotating discs that bear the printed time tracks. The lugs are gorgeous, sharply architectural and faceted.

The broad surface of the dial, where the windows aren’t, is radiantly mirror-polished, complementing the brushed caseband.

Lastly, I can’t help but comment on the gorgeous blue tone of the printed numerals, which pop subtly but beautifully against the slight rose tone of the case. At $33,500, elegance sure doesn’t come cheap, but you’ll have it in spades with this one.

Chanel J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1 38mm

Chanel J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1 38mm

Chanel’s J12 collection got a serious update with their new Bleu model, so-named for its gorgeous blue ceramic case. It’s got a lovely wearable 38mm diameter case crafted from such a unique shade of blue that almost looks black in some lighting.

On the dial, this dark blue melts easily into the full black of the Arabic numerals—or alternatively, you can get an extra monochromatic pop with blue sapphires as the indices. 

The bright white text proudly indicating the make and model of the watch stands out brilliantly against the muted tones in the rest of the case. For $10,500, it’s a great ceramic sports watch that can’t be missed.

Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium

Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium

And now for something totally different! The G-Timeless Planetarium is part of Gucci’s High Watchmaking collection, meaning it’s the crème de la crème of designer watches. This spectacular automaton runs on the GGC.1976.DS movement, which is named after the Orion Nebula 1976. 

It’s manual-winding with a central flying tourbillon, which is already enough to make your jaw drop, but Gucci’s watchmakers have tossed in there an exceptional automaton function to go with it, actuated through the crown.

The name is a bit of a misnomer—it’s not a true planetarium in the way that the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Planetarium is, but it is a representation of one with twelve exceptional gemstones that both rotate on themselves and around the dial. 

You can get this hunk of horology for a whopping 350,000 Swiss francs in white or rose gold with different gemstone options.

Louis Vuitton Escale Pink Gold

Louis Vuitton Escale Pink Gold

When I first read about the Escale—and some of the initially gushing reviews about it—I was dubious, to say the least. It’s just another time-only dress watch, I told myself.

I’ll be the first to say now that I could not have been more wrong. The watch is quintessentially LV in a way that shockingly avoids being overbearing. 

As the name suggests (French for stopover or port), it’s inspired by Louis Vuitton travel trunks, and every element of the design exudes the class and luxury associated with them. It’s the perfect modern size at 39mm in diameter and its textured blue dial complements the pink gold case flawlessly.

Both the indices at 3/6/9/12 and the lugs reference the iconic riveted corners of the suitcases in a way that makes me wonder why this design hasn’t been brought to the world of watchmaking yet, because it just looks so darn good. 

Plus, it’s all powered by the gorgeous caliber LFT023, a micro-rotor movement with stunning finishing and 50 hours of power reserve. It’s not cheap at $26,300, but for a precious metal dress watch, you could do a whole lot worse for the price.

Ralph Lauren 867 Rose Gold 32mm White Dial

Ralph Lauren 867 Rose Gold 32mm White Dial

There are a lot of watches today that take inspiration from art deco, the exuberant design period prominent in the Roaring Twenties, primarily using this theme as a justification for timepieces that are overladen with sparkly gems and garish color combinations. 

The Ralph Lauren 867 is a totally different side of the art deco spectrum, in a beautifully refreshing way. It’s classy, dressy, and simple.

It’s primarily constructed around a series of square frames that constrict as you approach the center—the outside of the case, the bezel, and several in the dial for the different printed tracks. Thanks to this, and to its small lugs, it wears simply and purely on the wrist, continuous in all its lines in a refreshing way. 

The Breguet hands and quintessential Ralph Lauren numerals (two different types, with one for 3/6/9/12 and the other for the rest) complete the classy and restrained look.

Plus, with just a 32mm case, it’s anything but obtrusive. And the $17,000 price tag is honestly pretty solid for a rose gold dress watch, especially one bearing the Ralph Lauren name.

Gem Dior Malachite Dial

Gem Dior Malachite Dial

Rarely do I see a level of design innovation in watches as the Gem Dior collection, crafted by Victoire de Castellane, a top jewelry designer. It’s one of the finest ladies’ watches to be found anywhere, thanks to its subdued 27mm diameter but stunning array of facets and construction.

It uses multiple sorts of metals and gemstones to create an exterior that feels not quite like a gem but rather something altogether new and brilliant. 

It looks like the distillation of wearable luxury—a bracelet and a gemstone, and a watch all packed into one in a nearly surrealist form. The rich banded malachite dial only adds to the effect.

The movement is a touch disappointing as it’s a rather uninteresting quartz, but considering the restrained size of the watch, that can be slightly ignored. This one will set you back a considerable $18,500.

Chanel J12 Automaton Caliber 6

Chanel J12 Automaton Caliber 6

This is Chanel’s haute horlogerie offering, of a very different sort than the Gucci we already looked at. In fact, almost the only thing the two have in common is their use of an automaton. This time, however, Chanel employs it to create the image of Gabrielle Chanel’s couture atelier.

The 20-second animation, triggered by the press of a button, features the movement of a couture dress and of Mademoiselle’s silhouette. 

While the case isn’t quite the rich blue of the J12 Bleu, you have in its place a very rich black that creates a deeply striking look with the monochromatic dial. It’s also shockingly wearable for an automaton at 38mm in diameter.

As a final touch, you get a 3-link bracelet also crafted in ceramic. Due to its serious watchmaking chops, this watch is limited to just 100 pieces and is priced on request.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver 44mm Skyline Blue

Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver 44mm Skyline Blue

Most dive watches today are not worn for their intended purpose, that of aiding divers in calculating how long they spend underwater.

So then why not take the idea of a dive watch and make it something much more at home on land? Introducing the vibrant Louis Vuitton Tambour Street Diver, which sports a nearly Tron-esque color palette and beautiful lume. 

It feels like the essence of big city nightlife. It’s big, broad, legible, and striking in every way. More than any other watch I’ve seen, it makes a monochromatic appearance look like an explosion of color.

Even the caseband is dark blue thanks to a PVD process. It runs on a pretty solid movement too with 50 hours of power reserve and automatic winding. 

And at $8,015, you can have it for less than many other everyday wear watches like the Omega Speedmaster.

Ralph Lauren Western Round 45mm Engraved Sterling

Ralph Lauren Western Round 45mm Engraved Sterling

The Western collection from Ralph Lauren is among my favorite watches ever, not just in the category of designer watches. To be fair, I grew up on old Westerns, so these watches definitely touch something deeper in me than just the watch lover—but these are some exceptional pieces by any metric. 

The defining feature of this watch is its antiqued sterling silver case, hand-engraved in New York City. It feels like exactly the sort of thing the most fashionable Western landowner would have had on his wrist… that is, if wristwatches were around back then.

If you’ve read my other articles, you know I often have a problem with 4:00 crown placements. 3:00 is where it should be, my brain firmly reminds me. But in this case, I can’t help but feel like the 2:00 placement is perfect. 

I can’t explain why, it just feels so right to me. Finally, the dial at the heart of it all is absolutely gorgeous: slightly off-white, with text that’s clearly been printed several times to add depth and glossy shine. Breguet hands complete the look. At $24,900, this is a watch that you can’t pass up for its price and style.

Conclusion

Designer watches have clearly come a long, long way. From cheap quartz-powered pieces to true horological powerhouses, they have quite possibly seen the most development of any watchmaking genre over the past 30 years. 

From “barely worth a second glance” to “you can’t take your eyes off them,” some of the finest watches in the world today are being made by designer maisons. Maybe it is time to pay them a second look!

best health watches

There are two types of watches that make your heart happy. The first is pure haute horlogerie class: think A. Lange & Söhne-finished movements and Breguet guilloché dials.

The second class keeps your heart happy in a more literal way: health watches! Smartwatches are fantastic health companions, keeping track not just of your heart rate but also of your overall fitness and wellness.

Oh no, I hear you grumble, not another article about fitness watches! I’ve read a hundred of those already—they’re all the same! Never fear, intrepid reader: I’m not talking about fitness here. If you’re interested in that part of your health, I’ve written an article on the best fitness watches here

In this article, we’re going to talk about the best watches for your health. So, if you’re focused on keeping an eye on your health, tracking disease, and keeping it at bay, follow along for a breakdown to find the best watch for you!

History of Health Watches: The Watch Nerd Section

Health watches have come a really, really long way. And if you’re a bit of a watch fan like me and you want to learn about this fascinating past, this is the part for you. (Otherwise, feel free to skip to the list—I won’t be offended!)

The first big medical breakthrough in the world of watches was the introduction of a pulsometer in chronograph watches. Ever notice just how common heart rate sensors are in modern smartwatches? It feels like every single one of them has one. That all started here! 

The pulsometer enabled doctors to easily and conveniently track their patients’ heart rates, and it remains available today in modern mechanical wristwatches.

The pulsometer usually takes the form of a printed scale around the outside ring of your watch’s dial that says something along the lines of “graduated to 30 pulsations.” 

To use it, first actuate the chronograph with your other hand on your pulse (or your patient’s pulse!). Count out 30 heartbeats, and then stop it. Wherever the chronograph hand stops, take a look at the marking and read it off. That’s your pulse rate!

Okay, so it’s clear health watches have come far from their early days. Really, really far. A pulsometer may be poetic, but it’s not exactly the most useful tool for keeping an eye on AFib or tracking how your heart rate changes when you sleep—let alone pulse oxygen or stress levels! 

The ability of a little wearable device on your wrist to help you fully master your health is more advanced than it ever has been, and it continues to grow. Now is the time to take your health into your hands!

The 10 Best Health Watches

Okay, enough watch nerd rambling about pulsometers and mechanical chronographs. Now for the real deal: the very finest in health smartwatches on the market today, to help you track every aspect of your health and wellness. There’s something at every price point for every budget, with every feature imaginable in the health smartwatch world. Let’s dive in!

Garmin Venu 3S

Garmin Venu 3S

For $450, the Venu 3S is a solid mid-range smartwatch with high-end features. 10 days of battery life, on-wrist texting, viewing photos, music, and more are all built-in, sure—but the best part of this watch is its health trackers. 

It’s great for any kind of cardiac or respiratory monitoring, with heart rate, pulse oxygen, respiration, and an ECG for keeping an eye on any heart problems that could be present.

On top of that, you get a great holistic picture of your overall wellness thanks to a huge suite of sleep-related features as well as stress and mindfulness. This watch does it all at a great mid-range price.

Amazfit GTR 4

Amazfit GTR 4

If the Venu 3S does it all at a mid-range price, the GTR 4 does quite a lot at a ridiculously low price, retailing at just $110. It even beats out the Venu in battery life, with a solid two weeks of continuous running time.

You get heart rate and pulse oxygen from the key sensors, coupled with a specialized algorithm to reduce inference from any arm movement that could get in the way of accurate tracking. Sleep and stress monitoring are there too, for a well-rounded picture of your health. 

To be honest, however, this watch is more suited for those of us who don’t have serious health concerns and who are looking to stay healthy through fitness, thanks to its variety of sports modes and other fitness algorithms.

This article isn’t for the dedicated fitness gurus among us, but if that’s an important part of your health regimen, this might be the watch for you.

Fitbit Charge 6 Tracker

Fitbit Charge 6 Tracker

I have a soft spot in my heart for Fitbits—they’re so under-the-radar and iconic at a glance, making them ideal for someone who’s not looking for a large dedicated smartwatch.

At $160, the Charge 6 hits all the right Fitbit buttons with a great suite of health features: heart rate and pulse ox in particular, but also the interesting inclusion of device temperature. 

The latter allows you to track your skin temp in the Fitbit app, which can provide a heads-up as to whether you might be getting sick—or getting over it! The Charge 6 mostly stops here in terms of its health trackers (you also get VO2 max if you’re into fitness), but for just $160, it’s pretty darn good.

Garmin vívoactive 6

Garmin vívoactive 6

At $300, the vívoactive 6 is just great. It’s just a solid watch that checks all the boxes. Bright AMOLED display, stress tracking, morning report, hydration, respiration, energy monitoring, pulse oxygen… the list goes on, but I won’t bore you. 

I struggle to find any fault to comment on here, but I also struggle to find stellar features that I can break down for you in particular. It just checks all the boxes without going over the top, like the quietly studious middle child of the Garmin family.

And honestly, that really might be the best kind of watch for many of us who are just looking for something to quietly do it all.

Samsung Galaxy Watch Ultra

Samsung Galaxy Watch Ultra

AI is the big headline for the Galaxy Watch Ultra—you can find the word plastered all over Samsung’s website for the watch, and with good reason.

Their Galaxy AI is here to enhance all of the data taken in by the watch’s suite of sensors, so you end up getting a lot more out of it than almost any other smartwatch would—others mainly use algorithms, which are less complex and analytical. 

The battery life isn’t anything to write home about (60 hours), but the AGEs Index tracker sure is: it’s the first example I’ve seen of tracking metabolic health and diet from any smartwatch, period. Add in all the other standard health features and while the $650 price tag isn’t too pretty, it does feel reasonable.

Garmin vívomove Trend

Garmin vívomove Trend

As a mechanical watch fanatic first and foremost, I can’t help but love that the vívomove Trend really does just look like a normal watch. All the smartwatch features are your secret, because at a few paces, this hybrid smartwatch just has a standard pair of hands and a lovely colored dial. 

Deep down, however, it’s a health-watch stunner. 5 days of battery life, a hidden touchscreen display that appears on tap or swipe, and all the most important features: energy monitoring, heart rate, pulse oxygen, respiration, stress, women’s health, and some fitness tracking.

My favorite detail? There’s a chronograph timer function that actually uses the watch hands, not the screen. Just for the watch fans like me. And at $300, it’s got a great mid-range price to boot.

Apple Watch Ultra 2

Apple Watch Ultra 2

The Ultra 2 may have a bit of an ultra price tag ($799), but it’s also got one of the most formidable suites of health trackers on this list. The Vitals app keeps an eye on heart rate, wrist temperature, and sleep tracking, while the ECG app gives you notifications for any detected heart issues. 

You’ve also got women’s health tracking and sleep apnea notifications (something very few other smartwatches are able to do). Unlike all the other watches here (except the Galaxy Watch Ultra), however, this is a smartwatch first and foremost.

It’s not about the health like all the others are: it’s a fully functioning smart device on your wrist. If you’re looking for health but also for a watch that can do much more, this is the one for you.

Withings ScanWatch 2

Withings calls this “the watch that changes lives,” and they just might be right. The 30-day battery life means you’ll have a 24/7 look at your health for an entire month, which can definitely be key for some of us.

Plus, like the vívomove Trend, it’s a hybrid smartwatch, so it’s got real hands and real class. But the headliner here is its health features. 

Withings claims their built-in ECG, for one, is medical-grade: a full 30-second assessment of your cardiovascular health. You also have skin temp tracking to indicate the onset of disease. Pulse oxygen, and an advanced heart rate tracker called a PPG.

Finally, the ScanWatch will automatically detect and alert you about AFib detections. In other words, it’s the watch for you if you’re worried about your cardiac health: almost all of its features are targeted towards that domain, and it covers it really well. For $350, it’s really not too bad for a little heart health peace of mind.

Garmin vívosmart 5

Garmin vívosmart 5

Like the Fitbit Charge 6, the vívosmart 5 is small and unobtrusive, and also very accessibly priced despite its full suite of health options. It’s got all the works: heart rate, energy level, sleep quality, pulse oxygen, and stress tracking. 

Nothing exceptional like the ScanWatch ECG, sure, but if you’re looking for something low-key to accompany you on your wellness journey, it’s hard to beat out something as simple as the vívosmart 5 for $150.

Fitbit Sense 2

Fitbit Sense 2

The Sense 2 is a very different sort of smartwatch from the Apple and Samsung watches we looked at earlier. At $250, it’s a great way to get all the health features you want, and then some. Heart rate and pulse oxygen, skin temperature, ECG and EDA, and even an altimeter! 

Fascinatingly, the Sense 2 also has an electrical sensor to measure your skin conductance. This keeps an eye on your body’s emotional response throughout the day by measuring physiological cues.

Were you dealing with a low level of stress for most of the day without even knowing it? Your Sense 2 can relay that information and help you deal with your emotional response after detecting it. Plus, it comes with Amazon Alexa built-in for hands-free function!

Conclusion

Health watches are a wide and wonderful world, with a huge variety of styles and features. Thankfully, this means that whatever your needs may be, there’s something out there for you. 

Looking for a tight grip on your cardiac health? There are plenty of watches out there with ECG functionality that can notify you if things are awry. Looking for an everyday companion to help improve your overall wellness?

Greener on the Other Side: The 12 Best Green Watches

Marcus Henry

June 16, 2025

Looking for some greener grass? Found it! Okay, well, it’s not really grass… but I bet you’re not interested in lawns anyway so much as the very finest in watchmaking if you’re here reading this blog. 

We’re here to talk watches, and this list of the best 12 green watches is the most vibrant and verdant that you’ll find. There’s a bit of everything here, from budget-friendly picks to supreme haute horlogerie. Interested? Then let’s jump right in and start mowing through this list! (Sorry. It was right there. Couldn’t help myself.)

Green Watches: The Modern Trend

Everyone says green watches are taking over these days. Heck, even GQ wrote about it. All of the top brands are releasing green watches right alongside the much more commonly seen blues, whites, and blacks that are staples of most catalogs. Why?

It’s hard to say exactly what the reason behind it is, but I think the real question to focus on is why not. Watch dials have been pretty limited in color and scope for about a century now in just the wristwatch world, and longer than that if you include pocket watches.

For a long time, blue was just about the only real color that you’d see offered by most brands. Now, the world of color is exploding. 

Rolex, notorious for their restraint and reserve, offered a shocking puzzle-piece Oyster Perpetual with emojis on its date window and colorful text instead of the day of the week. It’s a wild time to be a watch lover, and green watches are a great part of that trend. 

They’re more subdued and wearable than other colors that could be featured on a dial, like bright reds or yellows. Green is a cooler color, easy on the eyes, and matches a lot of the world around us. It looks great in a colorful but not too overwhelming way. In a sense, it’s perfect.

The 12 Best Green-Dial Watches

So without further ado, let’s get right into the list. We’re only looking at green dial watches here, to be specific, so don’t be upset if you don’t see your favorite Hublot SAXEM in lime green on the list (it has a mostly black dial, to be clear, so it doesn’t quite count. Believe me, I’m disappointed too.). 

All of these watches are highly wearable and most are pretty understated, making them lovely green companions for your summer days or touches of nature and color in the bleak winter ones.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dial

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Green Dial

The Carrera Chronograph is arguably the third most well-known and important chronograph, preceded only by the very illustrious Speedmaster and Daytona. For many, though, it ranks first in charm and class. In a lot of ways, it’s exactly what modern collectors are looking for. 39mm case?

Check. Chronograph functionality with prominent and elegant pushers? Check—and on that note, I think they’re my favorite pushers of any of the big 3 chronographs. 

The dial is the best part of this show, though. Circular brushing and a beautiful teal green color make for an eye-catching but not overbearing light show every time you wear this one out and about. 

Finally, I love the applied indices and hands that float above the dial: they’re complex and multifaceted, making for a really fascinating experience when you choose to dive a little deeper and really examine the subtleties of the dial shielded behind your watch’s crystal. For $6,700, it’s also a lot more affordable than its competition. Win-win!

Trilobe Les Matinaux Vert Soleillé

Trilobe Les Matinaux Vert Soleillé

Trilobe is one of those brands that mostly just does one thing, but they do it so incredibly well that they’ve enjoyed a serious cult following since their first release in 2018. The Vert Soleillé, or Green Sunray, is one of their finest pieces, for just shy of $10,000 (9,000 euros). 

You get a good bit of customization with this watch, as you can pick either a 38.5mm or 40.5mm case size (both are fantastic options) and can also order the right strap size for your wrist (goodbye, annoying extra strap length!).

One of the things I love most about this watch is that it’s so classy in the way it only tells the time, but completely reinvents the way it does what it does. 

That is true innovation, something that we don’t see often in the traditional watch world. As for that green dial, it fades beautifully between a rich green and a more aqua blue-green hue depending on the light. Gorgeous.

Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821/1A-001

Patek Philippe Cubitus 5821/1A-001

The Cubitus has gotten a lot of hate lately from collectors, and I would adamantly say that it’s completely undeserved. The case is extremely elegant and has so many dimensions, with an overall square shape marked with rounded lines and corners that break up what could have been a harsh and industrial silhouette. 

The horizontal embossing on the sunburst olive green dial is sporty but elegant, as all Patek should be. The Cubitus is one of the finest luxury sport watches to be made and is likely the greatest not to be designed by Gerald Genta (which rules out the Royal Oak and Nautilus). Plus, at just 8.3mm thick and 45mm in diameter at its widest point, it’s extremely wearable. 

The $41,240 price tag might cause a bit of sticker shock, but it is Patek, and one glance at the gorgeous movement (cal. 26-330 S C/430, if you care) should soothe that shock for any passionate watch nerd.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Green Dial

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Green Dial

One of my close friends absolutely swears by this watch, and having seen it quite a few times on his wrist, I’m inclined to agree with him. The green dial with tapisserie finishing (that’s the little squares you see, much like the dial on the Royal Oak) works so well to catch light in some settings, but for the most part remains subdued yet textured. 

As the Powermatic 80 name suggests, the movement supplies a whopping 80-hour power reserve. Plus, you get an exhibition caseback and custom engraved rotor. The case itself is restrained but spot-on, with a 40mm diameter and polished bevels to contrast with the main brushing over the lugs. 

With all this, you’d probably expect to hear a $2,000 to $3,000 price tag. Good news! This PRX is available for a retail price of just $725, making it a great budget green-dial pick.

Grand Seiko SBGJ259

Grand Seiko SBGJ259

I love Grand Seiko dials. Setting aside enamel, they’re probably the best in the industry, and the SBGJ259 is no exception. It’s inspired by a Japanese garden path, and the gorgeous dial reflects that with vertical striping much like the texture of Côtes de Genève, with a broad variety of green hues to create the effect of bamboo. 

Thanks to the diversity of its green color palette and the texture of the dial finishing, it plays magnificently with all forms of light.

Rest assured, though, this watch isn’t a one-trick pony: it runs on the superb caliber 9S86, which is a high-beat movement (10 beats per second!) with the great accuracy level of -3/+5 seconds per day. Oh, and did I mention it’s a GMT? You can pick one of these garden path beauties up for $7,300.

H. Moser Endeavour Concept Centre Seconds Lime Green

H. Moser Endeavour Concept Centre Seconds Lime Green

The Concept series by H. Moser is a really admirable idea, in my opinion. They strip away all branding, all text, and allow the watch to speak for itself. And speak it does, through a megaphone.

Just look at that hammered dial, covered with a gentle coat of fumé green enamel for a gradient of color and texture, all while staying within a monochrome palette! The SBGJ259 sure has a run for its money here. 

At 40mm, it’s easy to wear and comes on a strap made of Kudu leather. If you flip the watch over, you’ll find the reverse end to be just as pleasing as the dial, as it’s one of H. Moser’s finest, the calibre HMC200 with a 72-hour power reserve, blued balance cock, Côtes de Genève, skeletonized engraved rotor, and double hairspring. All that watch comes for a lot of cash—$27,600—but boy is it a lot of watch.

Maurice de Mauriac Racquet Rallymaster III

Maurice de Mauriac Racquet Rallymaster III

This watch makes me wish I played tennis just so I could have an excuse to buy it. It’s just so darn fun. While many of our other listings here have stayed within a monochromatic green palette, the Rallymaster III works in a full rainbow of playful colors that all work together shockingly harmoniously. 

It’s a watch that barely takes itself seriously, if at all. And yet you’d be wrong to think it’s merely a joking affair: it runs on the Landeron 24 (a Swiss ETA 2824 clone, so it’s pretty solid) and is limited to just 100 pieces.

Plus, it was designed by Carlton DeWoody, a noted interior designer from Los Angeles. Tennis fans, this one’s for you with love from Maurice de Mauriac for $2,400.

Ressence Type 3 EE

Ressence, like Trilobe, has completely pioneered the way we see and read time. The Type 3 EE, like most of their other watches, features the special Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS) module, which is, as they say, the reason for the season—er, watch dial layout. That eucalyptus green dial is subdued but elegant, and will really pop at night with blue-emission Super-LumiNova. 

Displayed in the watch’s many dials are hours, minutes, day, date, oil temperature, and running seconds. Wait, oil temperature? You bet.

This puppy is filled with oil from the dial to the crystal, which creates a stunning optical illusion where it looks from many angles like the dial is pressed up right against the crystal. Wallets be warned, however: at $44,200, all this innovation doesn’t come cheap.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42mm – Moonshine Gold with Green Dial

This mouthful of a Speedmaster is one of Omega’s dressiest options, and boy does that combo of green-on-gold work well for it. The movement, Omega’s calibre 3861, deserves some serious attention in this review, because it’s one of the best parts of the watch. It ticks away on George Daniels’ famous Co-Axial escapement, one of the very best in the industry (if not the best altogether). 

Thanks to this little contraption, it’s achieved certification as a Master Chronometer for prodigious accuracy. This involves 8 tests over 10 days, with every possible attribute examined (magnetic and water resistance, accuracy in all six positions, etc.), applied by METAS, the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology. 

In other words, it’s pinpoint-accurate mechanical timekeeping with a gorgeous exterior and a long history of mechanical innovation. The gold won’t come cheap, though: you can pick one of these up for around $42,600.

Louis Vuitton Tambour Fiery Heart Automata

Whenever I do an article like this, I can never resist the temptation to throw an absolute horological stunner in there just for kicks. This is that watch. The Fiery Heart Automata is a ladies’ watch with a total of 7 animations and a flying tourbillon to boot. I’ll give you a second to pick your jaw up off the ground before we move on to the rest of it. 

It also features 107 hand-set diamonds (0.53 carats total), and an 18K pink gold case. But we’re just getting warmed up, because the dial is the real show. It features enamel and miniature painting and hand engravings, so a wide variety of crafts have been brought to bear to bring each one of these works of art to reality. 

The colors are bright and vibrant, and almost as eye-catching as the animations, which you’ll have to see for yourself to really appreciate. You’ll have to fork over $490,870 to put this little beauty on your wrist, but man, what a trade-off that would be.

Dennison Malachite Dial

Dennison Malachite Dial

Dennison is a relatively new revival that is known for one thing and one thing only: making affordable watches with quartz movements and gorgeous stone dials.

Typically, malachite dials go for a lot more than what Dennison demands at just $690. Many people love to write this type of watch off as “too ’70s”, but I’m a firm believer in the exquisite beauty of showcasing a gemstone in all its imperfection, yet with completely natural elegance. 

The case does a great job of putting the dial at the heart of everything, and it’s actually taken right from Dennison’s old catalog as the last case type they created before they went bankrupt originally. Sure, it’s not a mechanical work of art—but man, for $690 for a stone dial, I’d more than willingly overlook that.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot x Kermit Edition

I love fun watches, if you couldn’t tell by my crazy Fiery Heart Automata pick. The Swiss mechanical watchmaking world takes itself so seriously sometimes, and it’s refreshing when a brand like Oris creates something completely off the cuff and wild.

Petition to inaugurate “Kermit Day” as the official first of every month? Oris sure is pushing for it: the frog’s little face will pop up in your date window as a delightful reminder to relax, to find joy in the moment, and to not take yourself too seriously. 

It’s got a fun mid-range price too, at $4,900. Oh, but allow me to mention just how serious Oris is about having fun. They equipped their Kermit Edition with the calibre 400, which has two barrels and an insane 5-day power reserve with an accuracy of -3/+5 seconds per day. Don’t mess with the frog.

Conclusion

I hope you had as much fun as I did exploring some of the best green dials out there. From those that give the dial their all to those that turn it into a beautiful accentuation of the overall layout, there’s a wide diversity of options out there. 

Whatever your budget, whatever your style, there’s something here for you.

Dive watches are almost more at home out of the water than I am in it—that is to say, they have become a true mainstay of the watchmaking world and often figure as the primary lynchpin of many brands’ collections, with their charm having gone well beyond the interest of recreational divers.

It’s not for nothing that the affectionate term “desk diver” is so frequently thrown around: everybody, and I do mean everybody, loves a good dive watch. (If you don’t yet, trust me, you will.)

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Unfortunately, many of the best dive watch icons, like the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, come with incredibly steep price tags, leaving many of us collectors with more modest means shivering in the kiddie pool while the big dive beasts are way out in the deep end.

You can’t get your hands on one of these icons for less than $2,000. You just can’t. Thankfully, you don’t have to because many other brands here have you covered. From the classy vintage styling of the Lorier Neptune to the avant-garde glow of the Christopher Ward Lumière, here are 10 of the best dive watches under $2,000—and, really, 10 of the best dive watches ever.

History of Dive Watches

Before we get into these dive watches, we need to consider where they came from and how they’ve evolved over time. Sure, they’re not always the go-to for divers these days, but many of them were originally designed to be of maximum usefulness to divers and still reflect that purpose today.

In the 1950s, recreational scuba diving was just starting to take off. It was an exciting era of exploration, with professional pioneers like Jacques Cousteau plumbing the hidden depths of our watery world. But naturally, with a limited oxygen supply comes the need to time just how long you’re underwater—enter the dive watch, an absolutely essential dive companion in these early days. If your dive watch broke or was running poorly, or if you even just misread it, you could die. Dependability and legibility were of the utmost importance.

To fill this critical role, brands introduced purpose-built legends that still enjoy tremendous popularity today. The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the first true dive watch, and it was quickly followed by the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster.

Most of these models featured a special dive bezel, which can be rotated to align an arrow at the top with the time you enter the water, and from there, a marked scale shows the elapsed dive time when paired with the minutes hand.

Waterproofing, of course, was essential, and without strong case seals, water could enter the watch and prevent it from running. Finally, the markers and indices were usually made large and prominent and were almost always lumed so they could glow and present the time even in the darker ocean depths.

The 10 Best Dive Watches Under $2,000

So today, even though these watches aren’t always exploring the ocean depths quite as frequently as they were back in the ’50s, they still feature the same quintessential design elements and recall the same spirit of adventure. If you’re looking for something durable and beautiful to carry you through life’s stormy seas, look no further than this list!

DOXA Sub 200 Professional on Bracelet – $1,090

DOXA Sub 200 Professional on Bracelet

I’ve had the opportunity to write about the DOXA Sub 200 a few times before as well and if you’re looking for a dive watch with some fantastic tradition and heritage behind it for under $2,000, you absolutely cannot beat the Sub 200.

I picked the orange dial color (which DOXA calls “Professional”) for this list as it’s DOXA’s iconic hue (meant to best reflect light in the ocean depths, so this is a real-deal diving watch), but there’s also a variety of other excellent options. 

Everything is maximally legibl,e and the colors, with the matte black hands and bezel, the off-white lume plots, and the bright orange dial, work shockingly well together for such an unusual color palette. Plus, the beads-of-rice bracelet just oozes with vintage charm and class.

Longines Hydroconquest – $1,775

Longines Hydroconquest Black Dial Automatic

Quality Swiss brand name? Check. Excellent dive watch design? Double check. Durable, everyday wearable watch that can go from the office to the ocean depths to a luxuriant soirée? Triple check. I love a heck of a lot about this watch.

The hands are just perfect, large and sporty with ample lume. The lugs are long, allowing the watch to sprawl out over the wrist with a balanced appearance that’s more than just a blocky dial squatting just behind your hand. 

The Oyster-style bracelet and oversized numerals aren’t my favorite, I must confess, but the well-proportioned structure of the case and lovely sunray dial more than make up for it. My favorite option is the blue-on-blue, but there are plenty of options for you to find your own.

Unimatic U1 Classic – $665

Unimatic U1 Classic

Italian watchmaking as a whole is drastically underrated, from Panerai to smaller brands like the design-focused Unimatic. Don’t cringe at the words “design-focused,” fellow watch fans, for the U1 Classic is an excellent dive watch with some serious watchmaking chops to go along with its minimalistic and elegant style. 

Its matte black dial and bezel, for some reaso,n work shockingly well with the off-white lume and brushed steel case, and Unimatic kept things as low-key as possible by placing the dial text under the hands so that it almost looks like it’s unbranded at first glance. 

My only complaint is that the rotating bezel doesn’t feature a time scale, but only the dot at the top, so you’ll need to use the dial itself to track elapsed time. It’s just not quite as intuitive. For that reason, this watch makes a superb daily wear diver, but I’d opt for a more informative one if you’re going on real dives.

Lorier Neptune Series IV No Date – $499

Lorier Neptune Series IV No Date

I love the Lorier Neptune. I’ve covered it several times already for all sorts of different articles with different subjects, and I just keep coming back to it. It’s one of the very few modern vintage-inspired releases that manage to be completely original and nearly perfectly executed at an affordable price. 

One of my favorite details on this watch is the lume plots, which are a lovely bright white, since Lorier chose to reject any use of fauxtina, which would force a fake vintage look on us. Even more than that, they went as far as 3D-printing the lume to create a puffy vintage look, which is something I haven’t heard of any other brand trying. It’s pioneering and creates an absolutely perfect look. I find this detail to be representative of the whole watch: perfectly executed, with a powerful focus on getting every little bit just right.

IFL Watches Gravity Concept – $1,290

IFL Watches Gravity Concept

What’s better than a classy Seiko 5 dive watch with a Jubilee-style bracelet, “Batman”-colored bezel, and automatic mechanical movement?

Try this: the IFL Watches modded version with a handpainted dial. The colors of the dial work perfectly with the color scheme of the rest of the watch, so it feels like it was always meant to be there as a special artistic version released by Seiko. It’s a work of art on your wrist, but not in the way of simply printing a popular painting onto a watch dial and selling it as an art piece. 

This is handpainted class that starts with the watch, already a great piece on its own, and adds something extra to make it all the more beautiful and fascinating.

Even the 4:00 crown position, usually something I hesitate to accept, feels like it works so much better because of the orientation of the astronaut on the dial, who appears to be reaching out towards it. It’s just a really dang good watch.

Christopher Ward Trident Lumière – $2,390

The Trident Lumière is Christopher Ward’s latest dive watch, and its French name makes it clear that the best-known British brand chose to laser in on the theme of light here. The indices and hands are molded from Globolight XP, a special type of lume that glows a brilliant blue at night and which can be shaped and molded into solid blocks like almost no other type of lume can. 

I love the way a well-lumed watch glows when it’s been exposed to sunlight, and I love watches that play with the concept of using lume for more than just visibility. This watch exemplifies that to the extreme, and I’m all for it. Sure, it’s a bit over our budget—but I just really couldn’t leave this one out.

Micromilspec Offshore – $1,815

A lesser-known but high-class dive watch from Micromilspec, the Offshore manages to be at once traditional and cutting-edge, drawing from watchmaking icons but presenting a fresh and unique image. The bezel is perhaps its most striking feature, clearly Royal Oak-inspired but without ripping it off, and I love the complex harmony of curves and angles. 

The dial has of course a wavy pattern which is deeply engraved and provides rich texture. Finally, I love the accent color of yellow on blue, which pops so well. Note as well the Offshore runs on the very respectable Swiss made Sellita SW200-1 with a custom rotor, so it’s got some serious watchmaking chops.

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 – $1,125

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80

The Seastar 2000 Professional Powermatic 80 couples a very rich and elegant dial with Tissot’s superb Powermatic movement, which is an automatic workhorse with 80 hours of power reserve and a Nivachron-alloy balance spring for antimagnetic resistance. 

Honestly, when I first found out the Powermatic movement was that good, I was shocked—we’re talking about a watch that goes for barely over $1,000 here and it’s getting a longer power reserve than most Rolexes! But Tissot didn’t stop there.

The aqua green color of the dial, with a lovely fumé gradient, pops very well against the monochrome bezel and case, and the wave engraving on the dial is much more irregular than the Micromilspec we just looked at, in a very pleasing way.

Jacques Bianchi JB200 Poulpro Blue Edition – $1,165

Jacques Bianchi JB200 Poulpro Blue Edition

The professional dive watch manufacture out of Marseille absolutely crushed it with this one. The first JB200 was issued to the French Navy in the 1980s, so Maison Bianchi has been making military-grade dive watches for a long time now. With the Poulpro, they decided to get much more playful with their hardcore watchmaking chops, featuring a playful octopus front and center on their dial. 

The octopus feels unobtrusive, thanks to the lightness of its lines, while filling the dial’s negative space in a fun way. Its green emission Super-LumiNova, coupled with the blue watch dial and body, gives you a very aquatic-feeling watch. Plus, it runs on the prestigious Swiss-made Soprod P024. I’m a huge fan of this watch.

Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer in Blue – $1,310

Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer in Blue

I can’t get over the vintage, multicolored charm of this watch. Just look at how busy that dial is, with so many different things marked and presented for your use.

All of the colors come together harmoniously, with none of them intruding on the overall blue color palette but still drawing the eye to the information it presents. I mean, this watch is by far the do-it-all older brother of the mechanical dive watch world. 

You’ve got a GMT hand plus a worldtimer bezel, so you can figure out what time it is anywhere on the globe. Perfect for planning your next dive in the Bahamas or off the coast of Italy. And as soon as you get in the water, Mido’s got you covered too, with an extended decompression timing scale so you can avoid the bends as you make your return from the watery world to dry land.

And wearing this, you can look so dang good doing it, too. This is my ultimate “I’m on a beach on the French coast in the summer” watch, but I would totally rock it year-round, too.

Conclusion

Dive watches are probably the single most diverse genre in all of watchmaking, and they’re a distinct favorite for many—myself included. Sure, I’d sooner use that dive bezel for timing a cake in the oven than how much time I’ve spent underwater, but that’s the beauty of a good dive watch.

They channel that sense of underwater adventure and bring it into every moment of your life. So whether you’re a diver or not, you can find your next everyday wearer on this list, at an affordable price!

best chronograph watches

Measuring Time: The 15 Best Chronographs

Marcus Henry

June 4, 2025

Let’s face it. Mechanical chronographs are all but obsolete at this point. You don’t need a mechanical watch to time your life events by any stretch of the imagination when the phone in your pocket can do so with significantly greater precision. As a self-confessed watch fanatic, however, that doesn’t stop me in the least from admiring and cherishing these beautiful watches. 

Using a mechanical chronograph keeps track of time with a sense of poetry, not of cold electronic accuracy. You can follow along with the duration of your latest lap time or the length of your drive to work with a sense of the beauty in this moment as the heartbeat of your mechanical timekeeper ticks furiously away, hundreds of parts turning in harmony in an effort to serve you faithfully.

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This concept won’t speak to many. Millions will scoff at the idea of finding elegance and poetry in their everyday routine with an expensive watch to keep guard over their fleeting moments here on Earth.

But there are those who, captivated by the beauty of these timepieces, can’t help but watch the progression of their thin seconds hand make its smooth progress over the glossy surface of their dial with rapture and awe. If you find yourself in the second camp, then read on—you are welcome here.

The Chronograph: Complex Mechanical Perfection

The first chronograph was invented in 1816 by the talented Louis Moinet, but it wasn’t until 1913 when the complication was adapted for the wrist by Longines. Today, one of the most useful watch features takes many different forms and variations, depending on its presentation and function.

Every chronograph is almost always accompanied by a set of subdials, usually either two or three. These are respectively referred to as “bicompax” and “tricompax,” which are terms invented by Universal Genève (a now-defunct watch brand that Breitling currently has plans to revive) and today applied more generally by the watch collecting community. 

The seconds hand of the watch stays at 12:00 without moving until the chronograph is started. Meanwhile, the running seconds of the actual time display are usually in one of the subdials, while the other one or two are used to count chronograph minutes and/or hours.

Still with me? Good, because it gets a little hairier. Most chronographs have two pushers on the right-hand side of the case, above and below the crown.

The top one of these starts and stops the chronograph, and the lower one resets it to zero when it’s stopped. Some, however, are “monopushers,” with only one pusher (usually set into the crown) and will start, stop, and then reset as you push it. 

Okay, the last thing to mention. There are a few extra complications that can make a chronograph even more useful if a watchmaking maison is capable of the necessary level of engineering and design required to make them work. The first is what’s known as a flyback, often popular in pilots’ watches

This allows the chronograph to be reset while it’s in motion without having to stop it first—thus, you can bring everything back to zero if you start a new lap or a new leg of your flight and have it continue running without any pause in the timeline. 

Another common one is what’s known as a rattrapante, or split-seconds chronograph. In this case, the chronograph runs with two hands at once, directly on top of each other, so you only see whichever one is on top. When you press stop, the lower hand usually stops and the upper continues, allowing you to time subsequent events like back-to-back laps.

The 15 Best Chronographs In 2025

Did you make it the whole way through that background context? Great! You’re now well-equipped to follow along in the list I’ve prepared for you and to explore the wide world of chronographs on your own. Let’s jump right in! Here are the 15 best chronographs, ranging from precision to new technical developments to elegance and class. 

Each of these could easily be a watch collector’s grail piece. I’ve covered all different price points here, from the accessible to more-than-the-average-house expensive. Whether you’re looking for your next poetic measurer of time or not, follow along as we explore together some of the best watches ever made in the chronograph category.

Omega Speedmaster

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph

The Speedmaster is quite possibly the most iconic chronograph ever made and continues to be one of Omega’s strongest offerings today, which is saying something given the popularity of their other collections such as the Seamaster and Constellation. 

This is a solid mid-range watch (starting at $7,000, depending on the model you opt for) and comes with a spectacular heritage. It’s notably nicknamed the “Moonwatch” because it was the first watch worn on the Moon, and the modern versions of the watch also include the absolutely spectacular Co-Axial escapement, invented by the brilliant George Daniels to be incredibly efficient without any oil. 

Its design, including the external tachymeter bezel, black dial, and recessed subdials, has influenced all chronograph designs since its release. It’s one of my favorite watches ever and a true icon of horological history.

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Chronograph Rattrapante

Swinging firmly to the opposite side of the elegant/sporty spectrum, the Toric Chronograph Rattrapante couples an incredibly classy design with mechanical advancement for the whopping price tag of $145,200. 

Its rich brown grenage dial is a perfect base layer, above which the polished applied logo and indices float in perfect complement. The movement is crafted out of 18K rose gold—not gold-plated, mind you, but solid gold—and features a double column wheel for its rattrapante complication. It’s one of the dressiest and most beautiful watches I’ve ever seen, let alone chronographs. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX Transponder

I’ve already said a few times that several watches on this list are among my favorites, and that trend continues with this one (sorry, not sorry). The AMVOX collection from JLC was in collaboration with Aston Martin (hence the AM part of the name—the VOX comes from JLC’s famous Memovox line) but was anything but your standard automotive-inspired watch. 

You might notice that the case is completely devoid of pushers—that’s because the case itself actuates the chronograph. With a push at 12:00, the case pivots on a central axis and starts or stops the chronograph, and a push at 6:00 resets it. This makes the chronograph incredibly easy to use, especially in a racing context while wearing gloves and handling a car at high speeds through precision turns.

Jaeger-LeCoultre wasn’t content to stop there. With their Transponder model, they included a small antenna within the watch itself so that, with just a tap on the crystal, you can lock or unlock your connected Aston Martin car. No, you can’t start it from the watch—but this is easily, without a doubt, the coolest complication I’ve ever seen in a watch. Plus, the watch just looks so darn cool. I can’t fault it.

Breguet Type XX

Breguet Type XX

I have a soft spot for Breguet in my heart, even though it’s a brand that most other watch fans tend to overlook. Their Type XX isn’t my favorite Breguet model, but it is objectively a spectacular and historical watch. 

It’s one of the ultimate pilot’s chronographs and was originally developed in the 1950s, when Type 20 (note the lack of Roman numerals) watches were ordered by the French Air Force to certain specifications. Numerous brands supplied these watches, including Breguet, and many also offered a Type XX as a civilian model for purchase, which had the same design. 

Every part of the dial is crafted for extreme legibility and is brightly lumed. Note as well that the Type XX is a flyback chronograph for extra functionality.

You also get automatic winding and a slick, elegant design with an iconic “big eye” subdial at 3:00. It’s not cheap—prices start around $20,000—but for such a legendary pilot’s watch from the legendary watchmaking house of Breguet, you really can’t go wrong.

Furlan Marri Nero Sabbia

Furlan Marri Nero Sabbia

The Nero Sabbia is our first budget option, an amazing chronograph choice at an affordable price from a brand known for one of the best quality-per-price ratios in the industry. At around $600, you really wouldn’t expect a watch this good. Admittedly, it does run on a mechaquartz movement, which is a little cheaper than a standard mechanical and, in this case, is sold by Seiko—the caliber VK64. 

This, however, means you get the clean sweep of a mechanical seconds hand with the accuracy of a quartz movement: in my book, that’s a win-win. The design is simple and restrained.

It’s essentially vintage without any of the overbearing vintage touches, like fauxtina that it certainly could’ve had.

The pushers are engraved with a lovely radiating pattern that Furlan Marri calls a “Tasti Tondi” style. Plus, the case size nails the sweet spot at an even 38mm. What more can you ask for from any chronograph, let alone one at this price?

Rolex Daytona

The Daytona is probably the Speedmaster’s biggest competitor for the title of most iconic chronograph ever made. Its sub-collections are also among the most popular watches ever—note, for example, Paul Newman’s personal “Paul Newman” Daytona, which is the most expensive watch ever sold at auction. 

Unlike the Speedmaster, the Daytona has automatic winding, making it a little more practical. Also unlike the Speedmaster, it has screw-down pushers, making it significantly less practical. Yes, the pushers add a little extra water resistance, but come on—does anyone really want to go about unscrewing their pushers before they use them?

While Omega has leaned hard into their “Moonwatch” identity, Rolex has chosen the racing feel for their Daytona, and it has significant ties to the racing world (starting even with just the name!). You also get more contrasting finishing compared to the Speedie, with mirrored portions of the bracelet.

This creates more of an elegant look and, with those screw-down pushers, perhaps one that feels to many to be more meant for timing the length of your board meeting than your Formula One race.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date (Ref. 26650FO.OO.D353CA.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date (Ref. 26650FO.OO.D353CA.01)

The Royal Oak Concept is AP’s playground, taking a riff on their most iconic model and throwing all sorts of chaos inside its case. Quite a few lovable (or hateable, to some) watches have emerged from this collection, like the Black Panther and Spiderman models as well as the “Companion” watch designed by KAWS.

With this particular very long-named Royal Oak Concept, you don’t get any fun characters, but you do get one of the coolest chronographs ever made.

The case is crafted from carbon fiber intermingled with luminous material, so it glows in a unique pattern and style in the dark, which creates a beautiful and avant-garde look.

It’s a large wearer at 43mm x 17.5mm, but let’s be honest, you aren’t buying this watch to be discreet. In terms of complications, you get a split-seconds chronograph and GMT, so it’s just as technically advanced as it is materially. 

Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Yellow Gold

The Tortue Monopoussoir is one of the most elegant and simple chronographs you’ll ever see. Its case follows Cartier’s Tortue collection, which is their second-oldest design after the Santos-Dumont. The shape is fluid and elegant and wears exceptionally well on the wrist thanks to its many sweeping curves and slim silhouette. 

The dial is classy and restrained with an opaline base color and pure black Roman numerals, over all of which float the blued Breguet hands. The recessed subdials feature circular finishing and appear as if they were set straight into the dial or carved out of it, with no sloping flanks merging into them.

It’s one of the classiest watches you could imagine, and only 200 were ever made, making it a true connoisseur’s watch that looks incredible yet anything but flashy about its quality and master craftsmanship.

Studio Underd0g Salm0n

Studio Underd0g Salm0n

At just $2,000, the Salm0n takes a totally new spin on the idea of a “salmon dial” by utilizing the full color palette of this noble fish, from its pink flesh to its silver scales. Compared to some of Studio Underd0g’s other chronographs (looking at you, Watermel0n), this one is significantly more subdued in its color palette, but I find it to be just the right amount of eye-catching thanks to the way its colors play together and stand out. 

The movement is a Sellita monopusher (caliber SW510M, in case you were wondering) and is even customized with a special bridge with the brand name on it. The case, lastly, is perhaps the perfect size for a modern watch, sitting right at 38.5mm. That number alone, more than its seafood associations, is sure to make collectors drool.

Breitling Navitimer Chronograph

Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 (ref. AB0139631C1P1)

Let me start with one thing: I’m not a huge fan of Breitling. Frankly, their watches just aren’t my style. In this case, however, the fact that they’re on this list should be a testament to the quality and enduring appeal of their iconic Navitimer collection, which remains one of the most iconic pilot’s watches ever made. 

Their Navitimer Chronographs start at around $10,000 and feature the dual functionality of both a chronograph and Breitling’s iconic slide rule complication, which I personally have absolutely no idea how to use.

But I know it’s useful somehow! If you’re interested, go ahead and one-up me and watch a video on it. Overall, it’s a highly functional and purpose-built watch that will be a faithful companion on any journey—airborne or otherwise.

Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue Ceramic 42mm

Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Blue Ceramic 42mm

Confession time: I love Hublot. That’s an unpopular opinion among watch nerds. But Hublot has pushed the boundaries of watchmaking in more ways than other brands would even dream of, and they continue to offer watches that are just so dang cool. Their Big Bang Unico is one of my favorite chronographs. 

This model, in particular, has a spectacular two-tone appearance with a muted interplay of navy blue ceramic and rich gray titanium. The Unico movement inside is an automatic chronograph, and one of the best, being completely in-house as well as automatic and featuring a column wheel and flyback. 

Everything in the design screams sporty and usable, from the oversized numerals and hands to the oversized and yet strangely beautiful pushers. In particular, I love the iconic Hublot bezel.

I know there are many haters who will claim it’s a Royal Oak ripoff, but to me it feels perfect for Hublot’s identity (their name means “porthole” in French, and that’s exactly how it looks to me). It references the Royal Oak in a constructive way, not a ripoff.

Patek Philippe ref. 5270J Grand Complications

Patek Philippe ref. 5270J Grand Complications

For many collectors, this is the watch. A chronograph perpetual calendar from Patek Philippe is their holy grail—and rightly so. It’s not a cheap watch (retail price is $194,190), but it is just about as close to perfect as you can get from a chronograph, or from any watch at all. Its movement is hand-finished to absolute perfection and is manual-wind. 

This sure makes it tricky to keep the calendar up to date but also allows for an unimpeded view of that gorgeous movement. The lugs are sculpted and crafted to perfection with several facets and sides.

The dial, above all, shows the quality of design and craftsmanship that you get from a Patek Philippe. There is a plethora of information displayed on its surface—from the chronograph counters and internal tachymeter scale to the perpetual calendar—but it somehow remains uncluttered and easily legible. Its faceted indices are polished and shaped to perfection. Indeed, that’s the best word to use to describe this Patek Philippe: perfection.

  1. MB&F LM Sequential Flyback

The LM Sequential Flyback is a masterpiece, the work of the genius Stephen McDonnell, a mechanism that appears at first glance to be a rat’s nest of steel on the dial until it resolves itself suddenly into a harmonious whole at the press of a button. 

The “LM” in the title stands for MB&F’s “Legacy Machine” category which—believe it or not—is used for their more traditional watches. Released in 2020, this watch contains a whopping 5 different chronograph pushers instead of the usual 2 and controls two separate chronographs, each of which has a flyback function.

Plus, McDonnell added a special “Twinverter” function, which automatically swaps the two chronographs—if one hand is stopped and the other is running, the first starts and the second stops. 

The watch goes for a whopping $218,000, making it even more expensive than the Patek Philippe. In case you were wondering if your money would be well-spent, the GPHG certainly thought so: they awarded it an Aiguille d’Or, the highest prize in watchmaking.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph is another one of the most iconic chronographs ever made, although it suffers from being significantly less appreciated compared to its cousins the Speedmaster and Daytona. Like these other two, it found its birth in racing inspiration—namely, the grueling Carrera Panamericana, one of the most dangerous races ever. 

The modern collection has seen quite a few changes from its original form, but it remains an exceptional watch. It’s best known for its “glassbox” crystal, which makes visibility of the dial and hands from any angle a breeze. I

ts internal tachymeter bezel makes the dial feel larger compared to the case, which is a new approach compared to Omega and Rolex who both put it on the outside. 

The combination of recessed subdials and elevated internal tachymeter create a great sense of depth that’s lacking in many lower-end watches. You also get some serious mechanical advancement, with automatic winding and a serious 80 hours of power reserve.

Overall, it’s the younger brother that doesn’t deserve to be overlooked as it vies for place with the Speedie and Daytona.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph (ref. 5520V/210A-B148)

The Overseas is easily the most underrated of the integrated sports watches offered by the Big Three brands—compared to the Royal Oak and Nautilus, most collectors barely bat an eye at the Overseas. They’re wrong to do so. At $35,600, this is an exceptional watch.

Take a look at that rich blue dial, crafted from translucent blue lacquer with a sunray finish that just instantly creates a powerful look of class and elegance. 

The large rehaut around the dial leads the eye right into the bezel, which is shaped with cutouts that visually reference Vacheron’s Maltese cross logo, and the links of the bracelet echo this shape design.

Everything is executed with restraint and yet nearly perfect class and charm, making the Overseas a worthy competitor to its sports watch siblings.

Conclusion

Chronographs are some of the most spectacular and intentionally designed watches on the market today. For many brands, they’re a playground for technical innovation. For others, they’re the defining piece of their collections.

They span every price point and style—a collection could easily be founded on these time counters alone. Whether you’re looking for your next chronograph here or not, I hope you left this article with a deep appreciation for the nuance and craft of each of these watches, which I know to be deeply merited.

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