Michael Brown, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
icon (+1) 239 262 4545 icon team@exquisitetimepieces.com
icon Store Hours: 10AM - 5PM (Monday - Saturday)
cart_icon
iconHome Blog / Archives for Michael Brown

Author: Michael Brown

best starter watches

10 Best Starter Watches

Michael Brown

May 24, 2025

“You gotta start somewhere” simply means that in order to begin a task or new activity you have to take a first step, even if it’s a “baby” one. For most watch enthusiasts, there was a “gateway” timepiece that opened their eyes to the wide and wonderful world of watches.

For me, it was a tiny one: a 15mm mechanical child’s watch from Sears, Roebuck, and Co. that my parents gave to me in 1968 on the occasion of a first grade report card (or maybe it was because I’d learned to tell time). I still have it—and yes, it runs.

Whether you’re buying your first watch, restarting after a long break, or trying to find the perfect starter watch for somewhere else, this list of Top 10 starter watches may serve as a useful guide to get you launched.

What to Look for in Starter Watches

Three important criteria to consider when looking at starter watches are: 1) Affordability, 2) Availability, and 3) Versatility.

Most people in the market for a starter watch don’t want to break the bank right out of the gate. Fortunately, there are numerous quality mechanical and quartz watches available at affordable entry level prices. Slow out of the gate is a smart way to start your watch collecting journey since it allows you to examine the field and gradually discern your unique preferences and tastes. It’s a marathon, not a sprint!

You’ll want a watch that’s readily available so you can start enjoying one ASAP. More expensive and popular models (e.g., Rolex Submariner) can take much longer to obtain. The models reviewed here can be found in one or more locations, such as  jewelry stores, watch boutiques, department stores, and online.

A versatile starter watch functions well across a broad range of activities and occasions. These are often referred to as “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” or “GADA” watches. There are no hard and fast rules;  a sports watch like an Omega Seamaster, for instance, can certainly be worn with a tux the way Daniel Craig’s “James Bond” character does. But watch type, dimensions such as case diameter and thickness, type of bracelet or strap, complications, dial design, and a host of other factors all factor in to make some more suitable than others in serving as a “GADA” watch.

Top 10 Best Starter Watches

A least one of the following starter watches will likely meet all of the above criteria, and most importantly, make your heart tick a little quicker.

Seiko 5 SRPE55

Seiko 5 Sports SRPE55 

Seiko’s superpower of creating feature-packed watches at affordable prices sets them apart as a leader in starter watches. This Seiko 5 reference is the perfect prototype: a 40mm case diameter that fits most wrists, uncluttered, highly legible black dial with LumiBrite handset, hour plots and indices, and a day/date complication at 3:00 o’clock. The case shape and push-pull crown location at 4:00 o’clock are fashioned after the venerable “SKX”, leading to this reference’s nickname: “DressKX”.

But it’s also a capable tool watch with a stainless steel bracelet and a foldover two-button safety clasp, 100m of water resistance, and Hardlex mineral crystal and display caseback that will withstand just about anything you throw at it. The Seiko 4R36 movement has a 41 hour power reserve. A $275 retail price makes it a perfect special occasion gift or everyday “beater”.

Orient Bambino White Dial (ref. RA-AC0M03S)

Orient Bambino White Dial (ref. RA-AC0M03S)

Orient doesn’t officially call its classical, dress design watch the “Bambino”, but that was the nickname fans gave it because of its fresh, “babyface” appearance.

Vintage design cues like a smaller 38.4mm case diameter, silvery-white dial, domed mineral glass crystal, no-lume Dauphine handset, and onion push-pull crown give off a classic vibe that leans more dress than sport—and with only 30m of WR, it’s certainly not a “water watch”.

But it does have a date complication at 3 o’clock, and the Orient Caliber F6724 automatic movement is hackable, windable, and has a 40 hour power reserve, which makes it a solid choice for everyday wear, especially with a can’t-miss retail price of only $270.

Tissot PRX 40mm (ref. T137.410.11.051.00)

Tissot PRX 40mm (ref. T137.410.11.051.00)

Tissot launched the PRX (“Precise and Robust) in 2021, and since then it has soared to stratospheric heights and become the brand’s best selling line. With its integrated case and bracelet design, it is a reboot of the 1978 Seastar designed by legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta, father of the Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak and the Patek Phillipe Nautilus.

This 40mm stainless steel case diameter reference has a “classic contemporary” Tonneau shape with a black dial, baton handset, and applied, SuperLuminova indices, and a date window at 3 o’clock. The integrated bracelet is matching stainless steel, but it has a quick release for a swap out with a PRX rubber strap.

The PRX walks the fine line between dress and sport by providing 100m of water resistance. This quartz-powered reference clocks in at a cool $375 retail and is also available in automatic and 35mm diameter versions.

Casio G-Shock (ref. GA2100RL01A)

Casio G-Shock (ref. GA2100RL01A)

Many recall a Casio digital among their early watches, including me. There are pictures of yours truly wearing an F87-W from my 1980s college years, and since then, I have owned several impact-resistant G-shocks.

This is an “ana-digi”, combining digital functions with analog hours and minutes handset, indices, and a “day of the week” subdial. The carbon/bio-based resin case is 48.5mm x 45.2mm x 11.8mm, but still fits surprisingly smaller, and its shape is enough like an AP Royal Oak to earn it the nickname “Casi-Oak”. There are 4 setting/control buttons and two windows that display the usual G-Shock digital offerings such as timing functions, alarms, and auto calendar to 2099.

You get the “best of both worlds” watch for a mere $99 retail, a steal for such a powerful punch of both fashion and function.

Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic (ref. NY0151-59X)

Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic (ref. NY0151-59X)

Dive watches are among the most popular sports models, even if one’s scuba rating is essentially zero. But if you are a real diver, the Citizen Promaster (nicknamed the “Fubu”, which means “puffer fish”) is an affordable and robust ISO-certified diver to put on your short list.

It features  a screw-down crown at 8 o’clock for better comfort and protection, 200m of water resistance, and a unidirectional timing bezel with arrays of deeply serrated teeth reminiscent of the “spikes” displayed by puffer fish when they mean business.

Then there are the other top-shelf specs: a 44mm stainless steel case with matching bracelet, bold, green dial and matching bezel, plus the Citizen 8204 automatic movement with a 42 hour power reserve.

If you find yourself looking longingly at the elusive all-green Rolex Submariner “Hulk”, then for $476 retail the emerald “Fubu” could be a big catch and a smart alternative.

Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch

Evoking the spirit of the original Omega Speedmaster “Moonwatch” used by Apollo astronauts and combining it with the colorful pop and playfulness of Swatch, the MoonSwatch collaboration is as much a cultural phenomenon as it is a watch.

MoonSwatch cases and dials have essentially the same shape, 42mm diameter dimensions, and design cues as the original chronograph, but instead of stainless steel, they’re made of “Bioceramic” which allows for many colorful and stylish dedicated “Missions” to various planets and astronomical events.

They’re paired with Velcro straps, like the astronauts wore, that come in colors matching or complimenting  the model’s theme. Some feel they’re a little stiff, but with a 20mm lug width, the MoonSwatch is a “strap monster” that allows customization with aftermarket straps in a plethora of styles and materials.

Swatch now sells several models online, and with retail prices ranging from $270 to $325, the MoonSwatch is poised to “boldly go where no watch has gone before”—and in multiples!

Timex Deepwater Reef 200 41mm (ref. TW2W95200)

Timex Deepwater Reef 200 41mm (ref. TW2W95200)

Timex is a longstanding, esteemed brand with deep American roots that has recently been releasing new pieces aimed at not only budget, casual consumers, but also enthusiasts. This quartz-powered Deepwater Reef 200 reference is a bold stroke in that direction, offering a very capable dive watch with a screw-down crown, 200m/660 ft of water resistance, screw-on caseback, and a 120-click, uni-directional timing bezel. It has a 41mm stainless brushed steel case with a mostly brushed quick release H-link bracelet that comes with no fine adjustment holes, making a perfect fit a little trickier to obtain.

The Deep Water’s “wave”-etched black dial surface, skeletonized handset, and  SuperLuminova plots shine through flat sapphire crystal with AR coating and are a cheeky nod to a certain globetrotting spy’s favorite wrist piece.

It’s a lot of watch for $219 retail, and there are also automatic references priced at $349.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. H69439131)

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. H69439131)

Swatch-owned Hamilton is an American-founded brand primarily known for providing watches to military personnel in 20th century conflicts.

The Khaki Field Mechanical has all the classic features of a soldier’s best friend in the trenches. The 38mm diameter sandblasted stainless steel is a svelte 9.5mm thick and very lightweight since it is hand-wound with no rotor. Field watches are often paired with fabric straps, but this reference has a matching sandblasted bracelet, lending it a somewhat dressier feel.

The dial is highly legible with white-lumed Arabic numerals, including an inner military 24-hr track. The sword hours and minutes hands, as well as the triangular hour indices, have a faux patina lume. All contrast well with the matte black dial.

The H-50 mechanical movement is hackable and provides a robust 80 hour power reserve, and a skinny $675 retail makes for a value-priced, heritage style timepiece.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date (ref. 01-751-7697-4164-07-5-20-14FC)

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Date (ref. 01-751-7697-4164-07-5-20-14FC)

The Big Crown ProPilot is a classic aviator’s watch with a 41mm brushed stainless steel case that is 12mm thick, making for a good fit for most wrist sizes and an easy slide under the cuff. It has a sapphire crystal and display caseback that showcases the high-accuracy Caliber 751 automatic movement which is hackable, runs at 28,800 vph, has a 38 hour power reserve, and sports a red rotor.

A polished angled, coin edge bezel adds to its striking appearance. The uncluttered, flat black dial is highly legible and contrasts nicely with the SuperLuminova treated handset, Arabic numerals, and indices. The large, onion aviator crown is screw-down and helps provide an impressive 100m of water resistance. A fun feature of the textile strap’s deployant clasp lift-lock system is its airplane seatbelt design. Well played, Oris, well played!

The Big Crown slides in at the relatively small entry level luxury price of $1,550.

Longines Hydroconquest Blue Dial Automatic  (ref. L3.742.4.96.6)

Longines Hydroconquest Blue Dial Automatic  (ref. L3.742.4.96.6)

Dive watches have not been the traditional forte of the Longines brand, but they recently have undergone a recent revival in their catalog.

The Hydroconquest’s stainless steel 41mm case diameter coupled with a larger 51mm lug-to-lug width will make for a slightly larger than stated fit. The unidirectional bezel with ceramic insert has arrays of aggressive grooves, and the screw-down crown protected by a fortress-like crown guard helps provide a robust 300m of water resistance.

The dial is a sunburst blue, has large, highly-lumed Arabic numerals at 6, 9, and 12, round hour and trapezoid-shaped indices, and a date window at 3.

The sword handset has a “snowflake-esque” diamond-shaped protuberance on the hours hand, and the seconds hand is red-tipped. The case is paired with a matching 3-link bracelet.

The L888 automatic movement has a long-lasting 72 hour power reserve. The feature-packed Hydroconquest has a relatively modest retail price of  $1,3775.

Conclusion

I’ve come a long way in my collecting journey from my 15mm Sears kid watch with the skinny, Speidel “Twist-O-Flex” band. But regardless of how far you go, getting off to a good start is key to opening up many alternative routes, all of which can lead to sublime, watch-wearing satisfaction.

tudor black bay review

The Tudor Black Bay Is Not Rolex’s “Little Brother”

Michael Brown

May 19, 2025

Hans Wilsdorf’s stated goal when he founded Tudor in 1926 was to produce “a watch our agents could sell at a more modest price than Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standard of dependability for which Rolex is famous.”

That’s all well enough, but since then, Tudor has often been unfairly dismissed as “the poor man’s Rolex” and “Rolex’s little brother”.

But somewhere Wilsdorf is smiling because 99 years later, after milking the success of its cornerstone Black Bay collection, Tudor stands on its own two feet as a “big boy” brand that has come into its own.

I aim to give readers a broad brushstroke overview of Tudor’s Black Bay line and describe the wide array of styles, sizes, colors, complications, and materials that have emerged from its 2012 launch, including novelties from Watches and Wonders 2025.

Then you will hopefully appreciate how the Black Bay collection has fulfilled Wilsdorf’s vision and become an exemplar of modern “affordable luxury” timepieces that rightly honors its roots.

History

Tudor Black Bay 58

To know the Tudor Black Bay family, you must first learn about its patriarch, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner (ref. 7922), born in 1954, the same era that saw the launch of legendary dive watches like the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.

The Oyster Prince Submariner became a favorite tool watch among professional divers, including military frogmen and aquanauts in the U.S. Navy and French Marine Nationale.

Affordable but sturdy, they had the same “Crown”-engraved cases and crowns as Rolex, but inside were off-the-shelf ETA movements to decrease costs. Today, these old-school hybrids are highly sought-after pieces among collectors.

In 1968, after collaboration with the French navy, Tudor swapped the original “Mercedes” hours hands for the signature “snowflake” design that allows divers in deep, murky waters to better tell time. Tudor’s Submariner was discontinued in 1999, and for 13 years, Tudor did not produce any dive watches.

Tudor returned to its diver heritage with the launch of the first Black Bay “Heritage” ref. 79220R at Baselworld 2012. The case was stainless steel with a 41mm diameter and a rotating burgundy dive bezel, black dial, and gilted accents, all nods to design language of the past. 

The dial had a Tudor rose logo at 12 o’clock with curved “Rotor Self-Winding” print at 6 o’clock, which earned the nickname “Smiley”. The mechanism was an ETA 2824, and the watch had 200 m/330 ft of water resistance. It was offered with a NATO fabric or rubber strap or a matching bracelet.

Retro yet modern, it was an instant hit. It won the “Revival” prize at the 2013 Grand Prix d’Horologerie de Genéve and helped launch a “heritage-inspired” movement that other brands emulated and remains strong to this day.

As you will see in the following, the modern Black Bay is polylingual, with a massive “vocabulary” (by my count,116 references in the current catalog) that speaks to a diverse audience with a variety of needs, tastes, and wrist sizes.  

Cases

Black Bay cases are round, “slab-sided”, and made mostly of 316L stainless steel, but some references are black PVD-coated steel, bronze, gold, silver, steel-yellow gold, and even ceramic. Various combinations of brushed and polished finishes are used in the lugs, bezels, cases, and bracelets.

Bezels on Black Bay models come in different colors and are mostly unidirectional with aluminum inserts and diver markings in keeping with their ancestry.

However, the Black Bay GMT and Black Bay 58 GMT have bidirectional bezels with 24-hr markings, the Black Bay Pro, another GMT, a steel bezel with 24-hr markings, the Black Bay Chrono a steel bezel with tachymeter, and Black Bay One (31/36/39/41) bezels are smooth and polished, in either steel or yellow gold.

The crowns are screw-down and engraved with the classic Tudor “rose” logo. The case and crowns provide 200 m/660 ft of water resistance in most Black Bays. The Black Bay One  collection, which is a less sporty, more everyday and dressier watch reminiscent of a Rolex Explorer 1, still has a robust 100 m/330 ft of aquatic protection. 

Black Bays have scratch-resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coatings. Casebacks are mostly solid, but a few references have sapphire crystal display casebacks.

Tudor Black Bays have a broad range of case diameters, from the Black Bay One’s 31mm options to the Black Bay 54’s 37mm diameter, all the way to the 43mm Black Bay 68 released at Watches and Wonders 2025. 

The Black Bay 58 has a 39mm case diameter that hits that “one size fits most all” sweet spot that works great on a wide range of wrists. The Black Bay 58 now has 16 references, including the W&W 2025 releases of the “all-burgundy” dial/bezel refs. M7939A1A0RU-0001 and M7939A1A0RU-0002.

Dial

First things first: All Tudor Black Bay models have signature “snowflake” hours hands and sword-shaped minutes hands. Some references have running seconds hands with a “snowflake” protrusion, while others have a round “ball”. 

The Black Bay GMT, Black Bay 58 GMT, and the Black Bay Pro have a “snowflake” fourth hand. The Black Bay Chrono subdial hands are sword shaped, the timing seconds hand red arrow-tipped, and are the only hands in the collection that aren’t lumed.

All Black Bay references have a mix of round plot and baton hour indices, along with an inverted triangle marking 12 o’clock. An exception is the Black Bay Bronze, which has Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9. Indices are typically white with a silver-colored border or gilt border with faux patina (light tan). 

For a more formal look, round diamond hour indices are available in the Black Bay One sub-collection. A minutes track in the chapter ring is standard, with the Black Bay Chrono drilling a bit further to ¼ minute intervals.

The Black Bay offers several dial colors, including black, blue, opaline, silver, slate grey, green, and champagne. Tudor got cheeky with the Black Bay Chrono “Pink” in 2024 and the  Chrono “Flamingo blue” at Watches and Wonders 2025. 

Another eye-popping 2025 W&W release was the Black Bay 58 “all-burgundy” bezel and dial with a sunburst finish. Both matte and sunburst finishes are present across the collection.

Fitting for a “heritage” watch, most Black Bays do not have a date window. If you need one, the Black Bay S&G, Black Bay GMT, Black Bay 58 GMT,  and Black Bay Pro have date windows at 3 o’clock, and the Black Bay Chrono at 6 o’clock.

Movement

For decades, Tudor used 3rd party ETA movements to achieve lower retail prices in keeping with Wilsdorf’s vision of near-Rolex quality for the “common” man or woman.

Like many brands, Tudor eventually started producing manufacture, or “in-house” movements that reflected the company’s commitment to excellence in watchmaking. Tudor produced its first one, the MT5621, in 2015.

Tudor has continued to the point that in the current 2025 catalog, all Tudor Black Bay movements are manufacture, indicated by the prefix “MT”, and at a minimum are COSC-certified with an accuracy of -4/+6 seconds per day.

Another major development has been Tudor’s move toward Master Chronometer, or “METAS” certification. These movements improve accuracy to a range of 0/+5 seconds per day.

Tudor debuted their first, the MT5602-1U, in the Black Bay Ceramic in 2021. Since then, Tudor has introduced the METAS-certified MT5450-U in their Black Bay 58 GMT in 2024, and the METAS-certified MT5400-U in the “all-burgundy” Black Bay 58 in 2025.

All Tudor manufacture caliber movements, whether COSC-only or METAS, will perform reliably and accurately under both everyday and rugged conditions. All have automatic winding and silicon balance springs that will improve resistance to magnetism, temperature fluctuations, and shocks. They are high beat (28,800 bph) for better accuracy.

Perhaps most importantly for most wearers, they all provide a power reserve in the 70-hr range, allowing a person to take it off on Friday evening and pick it up on Monday morning and wear it without resetting it, making it essentially “weekend proof”.

Straps

Black Bays have strap and bracelet options such as stainless steel, leather, rubber, hybrid rubber-leather, steel-yellow gold, 18K yellow gold, and tight-weave, “jacquard” cloth NATO.

The typical stainless steel bracelet is a brushed, 3-link “Oyster” style with faux rivets for a vintage look—the source of much praise or consternation, depending on your point of view!

Tudor has recently introduced a 5-link style with some polished links that adds a more contemporary and dressier touch. The entire Black Bay One line is fitted with the 5-link, and some recent models like the Black Bay 58 GMT and Black Bay 58 “all-burgundy” have the option of either.

On some models, Tudor offers a “T-fit” clasp that allows “on the fly” micro-adjustment. It has become such a popular feature that many Tudor fans wake up early on the first day of Watches and Wonders to see if their favorite “wish list” Tudor gets a “T-fit” so they have a great excuse to finally “pull the trigger!”

On-Wrist Experience

It’s fair to say there is a Black Bay for practically any occasion. Whether it’s dress, sport, or everyday wear, many references go in multiple directions. If you want flair for formal, there are diamond and gold options. 

For sports such as diving and hiking, the stainless steel Black Bay, Black Bay 58, and Black Bay Pro offer that range of versatility.  If you’re into travel, the Black Bay GMT, Black Bay Pro, and Black Bay 58 GMT’s capability of tracking multiple time zones is your ticket to adventure.

With a case diameter ranging from 31mm to 43mm, there is also a Black Bay for every wrist. With their average lug-to-lug distances, most Black Bays will wear more or less true to size.

Thickness-wise, some are a bit chunky (e.g., the 14.6mm Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Pro), while the 11.2mm Black Bay 54 and 11.9mm Black Bay 58 are svelte enough to slide neatly beneath a cuff.

I own a Black Bay 58, and it’s become one of my top “go-to” watches. It fits my 6.5-inch wrist perfectly, and the OEM “jacquard” weave NATO strap is light and comfortable.

With its versatile 20mm lug width, I’ve added both an aftermarket rubber strap and a stainless steel bracelet to keep things fresh and help scratch that “new watch” itch, so I stay out of financial trouble!

Would I buy it again? Absolutely. But I’d trade it in a heartbeat for that HOT “Caffeine-free, Diet Coke” Black Bay 58 GMT . . .

Availability & Price

If Hans Wilsdorf was still around, he might be surprised that such a thing as a Rolex “wait list” exists. But he would also be pleased that most Tudor Black Bays are either available immediately or after a relatively short period.

Tudor fills a niche in the “affordable luxury” category and represents one of the best value propositions in Swiss watches. Retail prices range from $3,825 USD for the Black Bay 54 with a rubber strap (ref. M79000N-0002) to $33,700 USD for the Black Bay 58 18K yellow gold (ref. M79018V-0006).

When you ignore skewing from precious metal and diamond references, most Tudor Black Bay references fall into the 4-5K range. That’s not chump change, but when you weigh the price compared to competitor brands and consider you’re getting a quality watch from the “House of Wilsdorf”, Tudor stands out from the pack.

On the secondary market, Tudor Black Bays hold their value sort of okay, but not as well as Rolex Submariners.

Consider a flagship reference like the Tudor BB 58 ref.M79030N-0001 on a stainless steel bracelet and compare its $4,175 retail to the aftermarket price (new, unworn) of $2,802 as of 4/24/25 quoted on WatchCharts.com—now you see what I mean by “sort of okay.” But hey, watches weren’t put on this earth to be investments, but instead to be worn and enjoyed!

Incidentally, if you want to dive deeper into pricing and options, Exquisite Timepieces has a large selection of new and pre-owned Black Bay watches.

Final Thoughts

Ever wonder why Tudor used the name “Black Bay”? Per the company, it was to evoke the image of a “fictitious hidden cove that holds secrets that can only be unearthed with time, step by step.”

Put that way, it appears the Tudor Black Bay is doing just that: slowly revealing new horological treasures, year by year, with no end in sight.

“Little brother”? Nah, tell it to the wrist.

rolex coke vs pepsi

Rolex Coke vs. Pepsi: Which GMT Master II Is Best for You?

Michael Brown

March 28, 2025

For most people, the phrase “Coke vs. Pepsi” evokes images of taste tests, slogans, and silly Superbowl commercials. For watch enthusiasts, however, the expression means one thing: “Ooh, ooh, Rolex GMTs!

As with most things in life, context is everything.

In the lead-up to Watches and Wonders 2025 when we’re all, well, wondering, “Is this the year?”, it’s fitting to take a look at the Rolex GMT Master II and its two most iconic bezel insert colorways, “Pepsi” (blue/red), and “Coke” (red/black).

One could simply assert, “You can’t go wrong either way.” True, but there are reasons why the various references and their colorways, sizes, configurations, dials, and materials used over the years might make one preferable over the other, depending on your needs and tastes.

I hope to give you a good history and overview of both the “OG”  Rolex GMT Master “Pepsi” and GMT Master II (available in both “Pepsi” and “Coke”) and provide some guidance on how to choose the one that will work best for you—and it may or may not coincide with your favorite soda!

I’ll also reveal my big, fat FWIW prediction on whether or not Rolex will re-release an updated  “Coke” GMT Master II in 2025, as well as my personal preference—which may require some Freudian psychoanalysis.

The Rolex GMT Master Pepsi

Rolex Master Pepsi

In the early 1950s, air travel around the world began to “take off” in a big way. More than ever, people began to think of not only local time, but also the time zone where they were traveling to or from.

Pan Am, a major airline in those days, saw the need for their pilots and employees to track a second time zone. They partnered with Rolex to create a tool watch to do just that, and the GMT Master was born in 1955.

That act of procreation launched a population explosion of GMT (GMT = Greenwich Mean Time, or the zero degrees meridian) watches across a multitude of brands that continues to this day.

The original GMT Master ref. 6542 had a 38mm stainless steel case diameter, modest by modern standards but large for the time, a case thickness of 13mm including its acrylic bezel, and came on a matching stainless steel “Oyster” bracelet.

The dial was “gilt gloss”, meaning that the text and markings were gold tone and slightly recessed below a glossy, black surface. The handset was gilt, with a “Mercedes” hours hand that allowed the wearer to easily discern it from the minutes hand and also more surface area for lume  (in this case, radium). There was a date complication with a “Cyclops” magnifying lens at the 3 o’clock position.

The lumed, bidirectional red/blue bezel made of bakelite, an early form of synthetic plastic-like material, was embedded with Arabic numerals and plots representing the 24-hour world time scale.

The red half of the bezel corresponded with daylight, and the blue with night. The resemblance to the Pepsi logo was immediately obvious, and the nickname was born.

Bakelite bezels were prone to cracking, a particularly troublesome problem considering the numerals and plots were lumed with potentially unhealthy amounts of strontium-90, and they were replaced with aluminum ones in later editions.

The ref. 6542 lasted only 5 years and was followed by the workhorse 40mm case diameter reference ref. 1675 in 1959, which, with variations in bezel and dial colorways, dial print, crown guard sizes and styles, along with ever-improving movements, stayed on the job through 1980.

The GMT Master appeared in a series of other iterations and was officially retired in 1999 in the form of the ref. 16700.

One very important characteristic which was common to all GMT Masters ever made is the GMT hand was coupled with the hours and minutes hands so that it was always on local time. In order to track a second time zone, the bezel was rotated until the desired time on the 24-hr scale aligned with the GMT hand.

“But wait!” people exclaimed. “Wouldn’t it be great if the GMT hand could be decoupled from the hours hand so that one could adjust the latter and  “jump” to a new time zone while the watch kept on running? Oh, and we’d also like a third time zone!” they said.

Rolex agreed. Enter the GMT-Master II.

The Rolex GMT Master II Coke

Rolex GMT Master II Coke

In 1983, Rolex released the first GMT Master II, the ref. 16760, with a red/black aluminum bezel insert, and it immediately earned the moniker “Coke”. It also had a couple of other nicknames that wouldn’t fly today—“The Fat Lady” and “The Sophia Loren” due to its larger crown guards, and thicker, “curvier” case.

The reason for the additional girth was the use of the new Caliber 3085 movement which allowed the aforementioned decoupling of the hours hand from the GMT hand so the hours hand could be independently adjusted without interrupting the minutes and seconds hands when entering a new time zone, making it a “traveler’s” GMT.

A frequent flyer could then leave the GMT hand in the “home” time zone and also track a third time zone by rotating the bidirectional bezel to align the desired hour on the 24-hr scale with the GMT hand.

There was a tradeoff, however. The Caliber 3085 movement could not accommodate the “quick set” date function, and from that point forward, the date could only be changed by moving the hours and minutes hands forward or backward.

In addition to “true” GMT functionality, the ref. 16760 included other improvements, such as an upgrade from an acrylic crystal to scratch-resistant sapphire, and a white gold surround for the indices to prevent tarnishing, a feature still present in the modern GMT Master II.

The next iteration of the GMT Master II “Coke” was the ref. 16710 which was released in 1989. A ref. 16710 “Pepsi” GMT Master II was launched as well.

Both remained in the Rolex catalog through 2007, and for a while, were offered alongside the GMT Master Pepsi 16700 which was manufactured through 1999 and then discontinued, ending the GMT Master era.

The ref. 16710 had a slimmer profile—still a 40mm case diameter, but the thinner Rolex Caliber 3185 movement and the subsequent 3186 allowed for a reduction in case thickness from the ref. 16760’s12.61mm, to 12mm, along with a shorter lug-to-lug distance.

The ref. 16760, as well as pre-1997 ref. 16710s, had tritium lume with “Swiss-T < 25” print dial. Afterwards, there was a transition to Luminova from ’98-’99. Since 2000, SuperLuminova has been used in all GMT Master IIs. Solid, milled end-links were introduced in 2000, and drilled lugs were phased out in 2003.

Another interesting ref. 16710 variation was “error” or “stick” dials, which have an open Roman numeral instead of a capped one. Later 16710s were powered by the updated Caliber 3186 which featured a Parachrom hairspring for better magnetic resistance and a faster date change after midnight.

The GMT Master II ref. 16710 had a long run that ended in 2007. Since then, the question of whether or not Rolex will re-introduce a “Coke” GMT-Master II has been on watch enthusiasts’ minds, especially every spring in the weeks leading up to Watches and Wonders.

A 2022 Rolex patent for the manufacturing of a red/black ceramic bezel insert fueled speculation even more.

But by 2024, still no Rolex “Coke”—although Rolex sister brand Tudor did shake up the watch world with the release of a “Caffeine-Free Diet Coke” 39mm Black Bay 58 GMT sporting a red/black bezel and tannish, faux patina.

Is 2025 the year? I’m going to stick my neck out and predict the answer is, drum roll please, “Yes!”

With the aforementioned patent, the appearance of a red-black bezel by Tudor in 2024, Rolex ramping up manufacturing capacity, and 2025 being the 70th anniversary of the GMT Master lineage, I think this is the year they pull the trigger.

But that may be so much wishful thinking on my part—plus my strong preference for Coke products, which probably resulted from my mother putting Coke in my baby bottle in the early 1960s (Do NOT try this at home!).

Rolex Coke vs. Pepsi – How to Choose

If a room in your house is decorated wall-to-wall with either Coke or Pepsi memorabilia, then your choice is probably already baked in.

For the rest of us, perhaps the main differentiator and selection criterion are the bezel insert colorways. Make no mistake about it, the “Pepsi” red/blue combination is the “OG” and simply pops, adhering closely to the GMT Master’s heritage of bold, globetrotting adventure.

As such, it gives off a toolish and sporty vibe more than a dressy one. Still, if you wear it with a tux, even those who aren’t into watches may notice the bright and colorful signal from across the ballroom and think  “Ah, I bet that’s a Rolex.”

The “Coke” red/black bezel insert is more subdued and sophisticated. It certainly would go well with black, formal attire, but its versatility extends to a wide variety of colors and styles of clothing. Flying under the radar can also have advantages, such as more safety during foreign travel.

With the rise of global watch thief gangs, you might breathe easier wearing the more stealthy “Coke” GMT Master II on the streets of Rome than the “Pepsi”, which can sometimes shout, “Hey y’all, I’m from ’Murica! Rob me!”

If you’re more interested in vintage and neo-vintage pieces than modern GMT-Master IIs, then you’re going to have a party going through all the many interesting references and variations available on the vintage and secondary markets.

If you’re interested solely in buying a “Coke”, then you’re going to be limited to vintage and neo-vintage pieces with aluminum bezel inserts from 1983-2007—that is, unless Rolex finally releases a “new Coke” with a Cerachrom bezel. But rest assured, there are many “old Cokes” available out “in the wild”.

Another consideration is how you plan to wear it. All GMT Masters and GMT Master IIs ever made were rated at 100m/330ft of water resistance.

However, if you plan to wear it in or around water, or other rugged conditions, do your due diligence and make sure pre-owned, neo-vintage, and vintage pieces you’re considering have been serviced in the not-to-distant past, including replacing and oiling gaskets.

Since older references have less robust build quality than modern ones, it’s always a good idea to keep them away from water. If you plan to wear the timepiece mainly as an everyday watch and not submerge it in water, then you’ll have more options.

Setting a budget should always be the first move before purchasing a luxury watch. If you want a new GMT Master II at retail, then may the Greek god of time, Cronos, be with you! The wait for a new GMT Master II is typically very long, and if you decide to go pre-owned or gray market for a late model or “never worn” one, then expect to pay a hefty premium.

Let’s say money is no object, you have a very well connected AD, and you want to fly high above the all-steel “Pepsi” proletariat masses.

If so, Rolex offers the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” ref. 126719BLRO in “stealth wealth” 18kt white gold and matching Oyster bracelet, with both “midnight blue” (retail $45,200 USD) and “meteorite” (retail $47,500 USD) dials.

The bling doesn’t stop there. It’s technically incorrect to say that Rolex doesn’t currently offer a “Coke” GMT Master II. Are you  personally known as a “VIP client” at Rolex HQ and interested in an off-catalog “Icy Coke”?

If so, for a cool $250,000-plus market price, you can have a red/black bezel, consisting of 18 black sapphire, 18 rubies, and 12 diamonds, in all-18kt yellow gold with brilliant diamond lugs (ref. 126758 RUSA) or baguette diamond lugs (ref. 126778 RUSA), and all-18kt white gold with baguette diamond lugs (ref. 126779 RUSA).

That’s a lot of “ice”! Be careful. If you fly too close to the sun, your wings may melt!

Coming back down to earth, if you desire a new all-steel “Pepsi” GMT Master II and have an AD who can hook you up for retail, the ref. 126710BLRO in 2025 is available from authorized dealers for $10,800 USD with Oyster bracelet, and $11,000 USD with a Jubilee.

According to WatchCharts, the average preowned ref. 126710BLRO market price as of this writing is $19,037 USD—“hefty premium” indeed! A “never worn” piece with original box and papers will command even more.

Keep in mind that there are a lot of Rolex vintage and neo-vintage ref.1671s out there in both “Pepsi” and “Coke” colorways. As of this writing, WatchCharts shows the average market price of an all-steel 1671 to be more reasonable and much closer to current retail at $11,714 USD. While market prices fluctuate, of course, in general, all-steel GMT Master IIs are going to hold their value well.

Which one would I choose? Good question! A steel GMT-Master II is an aspirational watch for me, and I do ogle them on a regular basis. Right now, I would probably buy a neo-vintage (late 90s, early 2000s) ref. 1671 “Coke”.

Secondary market GMT Master IIs from that era are more likely to be in good condition than older references, but still much less expensive than ones from 2018 to the present. I’d choose “Coke” because it’s my cola of choice (see previous Dr. Freud reference), plus I like the idea of wearing a more subdued, “stealth” watch “in the wild”.

But hey, if an AD called me right now and offered me a new all-steel “Pepsi” at retail, I’d probably grab the opportunity. Take that, Mom!

Conclusion

GMT watches are all the rage in 2025, with new models from various manufacturers emerging almost every week. Some of them are very good, some even great. Still, nothing is likely to ever dethrone “The Crown’s” GMT Master II.

Like I said in the beginning, the real answer to the question “Coke or Pepsi?” is not an “either/or” response, but instead a “both/and”. Either way, you’ll be the winner wearing “The Real Thing” or “The Right One, Baby!” on your wrist.

best watches for women

15 Best Watches for Women (Rolex, Cartier, Omega, and More!)

Michael Brown

February 24, 2025

While watch enthusiasm has traditionally been a male-dominated domain, as Bob Dylan sang, “the times they are a-changin’.” Today, women are not only buying and collecting more timepieces, but they’re also becoming major influencers on social media and high performers in the c-suites of major brands.

At the same time, women are wearing larger case diameters traditionally marketed “for men”, and translating the traditional “small and dressy” design language of previous generations into a modern aesthetic suitable for stylish and active lifestyles.

So, while a unisex “wear what you like” philosophy has grown, women still want niche options they can call their own. This article will describe “15 Best Watches for Women” that capture the current trend of blending traditional forms with fresh ideas and creating modern watches that have the beauty, complications, and technological updates suitable for a wide range of activities and settings.

History of Women’s Watches

Aristocratic women of the early 1800s were the first to wear watches. Abraham-Louis Breguet created a commissioned piece for the Countess of Murat, and Patek Philippe made bespoke watches for the Countess of Koscowicz of Hungary and Queen Victoria in the late 1800s. With improved manufacturing efficiencies and cheaper materials, women’s watches soon became more mainstream, just as pocket watches had for men. Women, who wished to discreetly check the time and didn’t have pockets, often wore them on bracelets, necklaces, brooches, and eventually, their wrists.

In the early 20th century, many companies began to market pieces exclusively for women. Popular Art Deco watches, known for blocky, square and rectangular shapes, as well as fancy flourishes such as diamonds, gemstones, and precious metals, became popular in the 1920s and remained so for several decades. 

During the same period, early women pioneers, aviators, and athletes, such as Amelia Earhart and long-distance swimmer Mercedes Gleitze, wore rugged and waterproof watches that piqued the interest of women who challenged the notion that bold outdoor adventures were for “men only”.

In the ensuing decades, women’s watch styles went through many cycles of bold designs, bright colors, and eye-catching dials, but mostly still emphasized small sizes and fashion. Modern women “want it all”: versatility and variety as well as high tech functionality. In other words, women expect no restrictions to living well-rounded lifestyles along with full access to the watches that will support them.

Top 15 Best Women’s Watches

This is a “tip of the iceberg” list of 15 Best Women’s Watches that illustrates the range of offerings watch companies are presenting to women consumers:

Rolex Datejust 31 (ref. 278289RBR)

Rolex Datejust 31 (ref. 278289RBR)

There’s no better way to start than with a white gold, diamond studded model from “The Crown” herself: Rolex. This queenly reference has an 18K white gold alloy, 31mm diameter Oyster case that sits between the 28mm diameter “Lady-Datejust” and the conventional 36mm “unisex” Datejust.

The dial has an Azzuro-blue floral motif with 3 different finishes, sunray, matte, and grained. Diamonds dominate: 24 of various sizes set in the middle of the dial’s flower petals, and 45 more circling the bezel. The matching white gold bracelet is a 3 semi-circular link “Presidential”.

There’s a date window at 3 o’clock to keep things practical and real. The Caliber 2235 movement provides +2/-2 seconds per day accuracy. You probably won’t swim the English Channel like Mercedes Gleitze in her 1920s era Oyster case, but with a screw-down crown and 300m/1000ft of water resistance, you could. Retail: $51,500.

Cartier Tank Must (ref. WSTA0041)

Cartier Tank Must (ref. WSTA0041)

It’s ironic that a watch inspired by a World War I tank and whose prototype was given to General John Pershing has become synonymous with iconic beauty and enduring Art Deco styling. On the scene since 1919, the modern Tank combines a solar powered quartz movement with signature elements such as an ivory dial and elongated, rounded bars called “brancards” (reminiscent of a tank’s tracks), Roman numeral indices, blue steeled sword hands, minuterié track, and a blue sapphire cabochon crown.

This is the “Large” version—33.7 x 25.5mm diameter and 6.6mm thickness—yet suitable for a wide range of wrists. The strap is black grained calfskin leather strap with a steel ardillon buckle. With no seconds hand, no one will know it’s a quartz movement, and I’m not telling. Retail: $3,400.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.002)

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades (ref. 220.10.34.20.10.002)

The Aqua Terra Shades branch of the Seamaster family was born in 2022 and emphasizes the sea-land connection. This fully polished 34mm stainless steel case reference has a thickness of 11.9mm, lug-to-lug of 40.5mm, and lug width of 15mm.

The dial is made of brass, lacquered with vibrant lavender, and decorated with a sunburst pattern. The handset, round date window frame at 6, indices, and Omega logo are 18K white gold. The bracelet has mixed polished and brushed finishing and is a 3-link rounded style.

The Master Chronometer 8800 movement has a 55 hour power reserve and an accuracy of +5/0 seconds per day. More yacht party than ocean passage, but it still has excellent 150m/500ft water resistance. Retail: $6,600.

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” STGF359

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” STGF359

Grand Seiko is a Japanese company renowned for superb craftsmanship, such as Zaratsu polishing that produces a flawless, mirror-like finish, and artistically stunning dials, most of which reflect the deep connection between Japanese culture and nature. The “Lady Snowflake” has a crisp, white dial textured with ripples that bring to mind wind-driven snow and is fully appreciated through the double-domed sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating. A blue seconds hand provides a bright pop of contrast. The case has gleaming Zaratsu polishing, a 28.9mm diameter, is 8.7mm thick, with a 35.4mm lug-to-lug width, and 14mm lug width. The bracelet has mixed brushed and polished finishing and a three-fold clasp with push button release. Notably, there are no micro adjustment holes. Instead of the Spring Drive in the men’s model, there is a Caliber 4J52 quartz movement with an astounding +10/-10 seconds per year accuracy. Retail: $2,300.

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori (ref. 103799)

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori (ref. 103799)

If Cleopatra were alive today and choosing a watch to use as a “daily driver”, the Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori would probably be on her short list. The snake, an ancient symbol of health and fertility, inspires the design language of this piece with its “drop-shaped”, serpent’s head shaped case and hexagonal links resembling scales.

The case and bracelet are two tone: stainless steel links and 33mm case combined with 18K rose gold links and bezel. The crown is set with a cabochon-cut pink rubellite. The dial is black lacquered with gold-colored handset and indices (Roman numerals at 6 and 12).

The watch is powered by a quartz movement and has 30m of water resistance. If you “recoil”, so to speak, from the “wrap-around-the-wrist” Tubogas, then the more conventional Seduttori may be serpent enough for you. Retail: $8,900

Patek Phillipe Nautilus (ref. 7118/1200A-001)

Patek Phillipe Nautilus (ref. 7118/1200A-001)

Patek Phillipe Nautilus ladies’ version features the same sporty rounded octagon shaped case and “porthole” shaped crystal as the men’s, but in a smaller and dressier package. This reference has a 35.2 diameter stainless steel case and integrated bracelet with a foldover clasp that has a 2-4mm micro-adjust system.

But what sets this watch apart from the men’s version is a gem-set bezel with 56 diamonds, approximately .67ct each. The dial is blue opaline with rippling embossed horizontal lines. The handset and indices are lumed and white gold. There is a date window at 6 o’clock. A sapphire caseback shows off the Caliber 26-330 SC movement which has a 45hr power reserve and 29 jewels. Retail: $41,480.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm (ref. 77450ST.OO.1361ST.02)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 34mm (ref. 77450ST.OO.1361ST.02)

The classic Gerald Genta-designed AP Royal Oak, with its octagonal case, distinctive 8 screw bezel, and integrated stainless steel bracelet, is available in a version that is ideal for smaller wrists. The case is 34mm in diameter and 8.8mm thick.

The dial is silver toned with a “Grande Tapisserie” pattern resembling a waffle and has a date window at 3 o’clock, along with lumed, applied white gold indices and baton hands. The matching integrated bracelet is tapered with links connected by pairs of rectangular studs, and has a foldover clasp. The Calibre 5800 has a 50-hour power reserve, beats at 28,800 vph, and has 28 jewels. Retail $21,600.

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Watch Small (ref. VCARD21900)

Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra Watch Small (ref. VCARD21900)

Van Cleef & Arpels was founded in France in 1896 and has been first and foremost a fine jewelry company that also sells ornate, Swiss made watches. The Alhambra motif, which resembles a four-leaf clover, was created in 1968 and, per the company, represents “timeless good luck.”

The case is 18K yellow gold and measures 26mm x 26mm in diameter. Rather than gems, the bezel is adorned with gold “beads”. The modern black onyx dial has no indices, but the handset is yellow gold. It has a black satin strap and quartz movement. If you’re interested in a complete Alhambra jewelry ensemble, the motif is also available on necklaces, pendants, bracelets, ear studs, and rings. Retail: $8,400.

Tudor Royal (ref. M28300-0005)

Tudor Royal (ref. M28300-0005)

Believe it or not, there’s more to Tudor than the sporty Black Bay line. The Tudor Royal is a little different twist that adds some upscale, sophisticated design cues for both women and men while retaining enough durability for everyday wear.

This reference has a 28mm stainless steel case with a 9.8mm thickness. The bezel has an alternating notched pattern with areas of polished finishing. The dial is mother of pearl, and there are applied Roman numeral indices at 3,6,9, and 12 and 8 diamonds for the remaining indices.

There are lumed baton hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. There is a sapphire crystal, solid caseback, and a screw down crown that assists with the 100m water resistance. The Caliber T201 has a 38h power reserve. Retail: $3,300.

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Steel White Diamond (ref.682.SE.2010.RW.1204)

Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Steel White Diamond (ref.682.SE.2010.RW.1204)

Hublot is a bit polarizing these days, but there’s no denying that this piece is an attention grabber with its bold “tonneau-shaped” 32mm stainless steel cased with mixed finishing, and a bezel adorned with 44 diamonds and held together with six, striking H-shaped screws.

Both the crystal and display caseback are sapphire. The dial is matte white with applied lumed indices and sword hands, as well as a date window at 6 o’clock. The watch has 100m of water resistance and is powered by the HUB1120 with a 40 hour power reserve. The white rubber strap has a stainless steel deployant buckle clasp. Retail: $16,400.

Breguet Marine Dame (ref. 9518 9518ST/E2/584/D000)

Breguet Marine Dame (ref. 9518 9518ST/E2/584/D000)

Breguet, a storied watchmaking brands famous for producing timepieces for aristocrats beginning in 1775, still makes watches “fit for royalty”. The Marine Dame is both sporty and elegant, featuring a Blue Marea (mother of pearl) motif dial with Breguet hands, and Roman numeral indices at 6, 9, and 12 and a trapezoid date complication at 3 o’clock. It features a sapphire crystal and display caseback which shows off the beautiful maria motif rotor of the Caliber 591A movement.

The 33.8mm diameter stainless steel case is 9.9mm thick, with a lug width of 18mm. It is “crowned”, so to speak, with a bezel adorned with 60 .84ct diamonds. It has a screw-down crown, but only has 50m of water resistance despite its “marine” name. It comes with a sporty white rubber strap with Breguet branding. Retail: $23,200

Glashütte Original Lady Serenade (ref. 1-39-22-12-02-04)

Glashütte Original Lady Serenade (ref. 1-39-22-12-02-04)

The Glashütte, the birthplace of German watchmaking, has made an impressive comeback following the fall of the Iron Curtain. The Lady Serenade has a frisky attitude with its unique “bow” designs that run vertically and horizontally on the mother of pearl dial, giving the piece somewhat of a “cocktail watch” vibe. In addition to Roman numeral indices at 3,9, and 12, there are also 8 diamond indices and a trapezoid date window at 6 o’clock.

The bezel is plain but highly polished. The stainless steel case runs on the large size for women at 36mm with a 10.2mm thickness, and it has a black onyx cabochon crown. It is powered by the Caliber 39-22 automatic movement which has a 40hr power reserve. This reference comes with a green calfskin strap, but a stainless steel bracelet is also available. Retail: $7,000.

Oris Aquis 36.5mm Bluish Pink (ref. 01 733 7770 4158-07 8 18 05P)

Oris Aquis 36.5mm Bluish Pink (ref. 01 733 7770 4158-07 8 18 05P)

A brand associated with more affordable, yet excellent watches, Oris was founded in Hölstein, Switzerland in 1904. This reference has a stainless steel case on a matching bracelet and is also larger at a 36.5 diameter; in line with a sports diver, which it most certainly is with its rotating timing bezel, screw-down crown and impressive 300m of water resistance. But with its beautiful bluish pink mother of pearl dial, it wouldn’t be out of place at a yacht club party or more formal event either. It has lumed, applied indices and sword hands, and a date window at 6. The Oris Caliber 733 has a 38hr power reserve, beats at a peppy 28,900 vph, and has a beautiful red rotor prominently displayed through its sapphire caseback. Retail $2,400

Longines Dolcevita (ref. L5.255.4.71.6)

Longines Dolcevita (ref. L5.255.4.71.6)

Longines, founded in 1832, is a storied brand with a rich heritage. The Dolcevita, with its rectangular shaped case, evokes that legacy with a 1920 Art Deco model that lives up to its name: :”Sweet Life”. The stainless steel case is 20.8mm x 32mm in diameter, 6.9mm thick, and 32mm lug-to-lug, and has a matching 5-link bracelet with both brushed and polished finishing.

The silver “flinque” dial has contrasting steel blue sword hands, blue Roman numeral indices, a black inner minutes track, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. It has a sapphire crystal and a solid caseback, with a modest 30m of water resistance. The watch uses a reliable and accurate L178 quartz movement. Retail: $1,425

Michele Deco Madison Diamond Dial (ref. MWW06T000147)

Michele Deco Madison Diamond Dial (ref. MWW06T000147)

This is another Art Deco model, but with a squarish instead of rectangular shape. Notably, the dial indicates that the watch’s quartz movement is “Swiss” but lacks the more comprehensive “Swiss Made” label. It has a two-toned, stainless steel-18K gold plated case that is 33mm in diameter with an 18mm lug width and an ornate, red-tipped crown.

The silver dial has a lumed gold-toned handset, applied Roman numeral indices, a round date window at 6, and best of all, 47 diamonds centrally which frame a sunburst design. The stainless steel bracelet has a butterfly deployant clasp and is interchangeable with a Michele strap. Retail: $1,995.

Conclusion

Obviously, there are still excellent choices for someone who desires a traditionally “feminine” watch. Still, it’s important to recognize that the full array of watch styles and sizes can appeal to just about everyone. For instance, I learned to appreciate “women’s watches” even more by researching and writing this article! More options for all is good for everybody. It’s a little like wine: “You like what you like,” and “There are no rules.” Don’t let anybody tell you otherwise.

best Breitling dive watches

The Top 10 Best Breitling Dive Watches

Michael Brown

February 20, 2025

Dive watches are considered popular and versatile timepieces in the watch collecting world. Even if you’re chained to your desk instead of tethered to a deep sea oxygen hose, a quality dive watch can still be your daily driver and take you to a happy tropical place in your head.

When people think of dive watches, iconic models such as the Rolex Submariner, Omega Seamaster, Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, and Seiko SKX are among the first to come to mind. Swimming below the sonar, so to speak, is Breitling, a storied luxury brand primarily known for its historic roots in aviation and the development of the chronograph.

Since the launch of the Superocean in 1957, Breitling has produced an innovative fleet of dive watches whose quality and features rival those of any other brand in the world—and often at a lower price point.

I will be reviewing ten of Breitling’s top dive watches in this story and demonstrating that their name belongs in the pantheon of watches that have aided mankind in exploring both the sky above and the oceans below.

About Breitling Dive Watches

Breitling was founded in 1884 by Léon Breitling in Saint-Imier, Switzerland. The brand was initially heavily involved with aviation, producing cockpit clocks for planes and wristwatches for pilots, most notably the first aviator chronograph in 1936. That forerunner gave birth to the Chronomat in 1941 and the iconic Navitimer in 1952, which featured a slide rule to assist pilots with calculations and maneuvers.

Breitling entered the dive watch market in 1957 during a decade of increased interest in aquatic sports, diving, and ocean exploration. Their dive watches are known for legibility, durability and the ability to withstand ocean depths from 200 meters up to 3000 meters, making them a good choice for “desk divers”, casual snorkelers, and professional divers alike. Also, a wide variety of case diameters, materials, case colors, strap/bracelet options, and price points add to their broad appeal.

History of Breitling Dive Watches

Following the success of the Chronomat and Navitimer, Breitling introduced two dive models simultaneously in 1957 to compete in a market that already included the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and Rolex Submariner: the Superocean ref. 1004 time-only diver and the Superocean chronograph ref. 807, both 39mm in diameter. Each had 200m of water resistance, but the time-only diver was more refined and targeted toward both casual and dress wear, while the chronograph was intended for serious aquatic sports and diving. Both featured intentional details such as oversized circular and triangular hour markers for increased legibility and a rotating bi-directional bezel with a distinctive concave design.

Breitling soon built on those early successes with the 43mm Superocean “Slow-Motion Chronograph (ref. 2005) in the mid-1960s. That model converted the conventional timing seconds hand to a timing minutes that revolves one an hour to improve understanding of diving duration. Also, a unique disc indicator at 6 o’clock informed the diver that the chronograph was still running, necessary since the timing hand was moving slower than a traditional timing seconds hand.

After many years and releases of models designed for even great depths, the circle was completed in 2007 with the release of a Superocean Heritage model and a Superocean Heritage II in 2017 that harkened back to the original references.

Which Breitling Dive Watch is Best for You?

The answer to that question depends on your wants and needs. There are dressier but still water capable heritage models available, as well as rugged, oversized ones you could wear in a deep sea submersible. After we go through the 10 models and you see the diverse lineup of Breitling dive watches, I bet you’ll have a better  idea of which is best for you.

The Modern Breitling Dive Watch Lineup

Breitling SuperOcean Automatic 42 (ref. A17375211B1S1)

The stainless steel Breitling Superocean Automatic 42 preserves the look and vibe of the mid-century references while adding modern design cues that offer a clean, fresh look and better legibility. The transition from black ceramic bezel to thick, white chapter ring, then back to a black dial with a prominent handset and broad, raised  Super-LumiNova® indices lends both eye-pleasing depth and a “panda-like” aesthetic.

A sapphire crystal with a double-sided anti-reflective coating caps the 42mm diameter case that has a lug-to-lug distance of 47.7mm and a svelte 12.0mm thickness that enables it to slide under a cuff easily.

The Superocean Automatic 42 is paired with a black rubber strap with pebbled edges and a smooth center section secured with a stainless steel, twin trigger deployant clasp. The Breitling 17 is a COSC-certified automatic movement that has a power reserve of 38 hours and a beat rate of 28,800 vph. With a water resistance of 300m/1000ft, it will withstand both serious diving and an accidental splash from the office bathroom sink.  Retail: $5,200 USD.

Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 44 (ref. AB2030161C1A1)

If you’re seeking a Breitling dive watch with a more refined look, then this model should be on your short list. This reference combines modern interpretation of the original Superocean models with a larger 44mm diameter, somewhat chunky (14.5 mm thickness) stainless steel case topped with a coin edge, unidirectional bezel and blue ceramic insert with 5-minute interval hash marks instead of Arabic numerals.

The dial is also blue with a broad arrow hours hand and sword-shaped minutes hand and a date complication at 6 o’clock. The B20 44 also comes in black and black/gilt colorways. It’s paired with an elegant stainless steel mesh bracelet, but there are also black or blue “mesh-like” rubber straps available.

It has a Breitling 20 automatic movement which is a COSC-certified chronometer based on the Tudor MT5612 featuring a 70 hour power reserve. Although not as deep a diver as the Automatic 42, its 200m/660ft rating will more than cover the average person’s needs. Retail: $5,750 USD.

Breitling Superocean Automatic 36 (ref. A17316D81C1S1)

For a Superocean with an eye-catching pop of color reminiscent of the ocean itself, check out this Automatic 36 reference. Like the name says, it’s a 36mm stainless steel case that some would call a ladies watch, but it actually fits in nicely with the current trends of  “unisex” wear and smaller, more traditional diameters. Speaking of trends, it also has the popular light, “Tiffany blue” dial with a unidirectional dive bezel matched with a darker blue stainless steel insert.

The hands and indices are lumed and framed in dark blue.  There are Arabic numeral indices at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock and a date window at 3. It has a lug width of 18mm and comes with a dark blue, Breitling-branded rubber strap with large lettering. The Breitling Caliber 17 provides 38 hours of power reserve and 200m/660ft of water resistance. It’s packed full of performance specs but also an eye magnet that will draw admiring glances and comments. Retail: $3,800 USD

Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronograph 44 (ref. A13313121L1A1)

This Heritage reference is basically the Heritage B20 44 upgraded to a chronograph powered by the Breitling 13 caliber automatic movement which is also COSC-certified. It has a smaller power reserve (48 hours) than its non-chronograph sibling, but the wearer gains a ¼ seconds timing hand, and 12 hour, 30 minutes, and running seconds subdials.

Not only does the watch have a prominent wrist presence dimensionally (44mm thick, 15.7mm thick), but the combination of a polished black ceramic bezel, deep, forest green dial, and striking stainless steel mesh bracelet also grabs attention and doesn’t let go.

The dial is a little busy between 2 and 4 o’clock as the Breitling logo and branding, as well as a day-date window, occupy that space. The Heritage Chronograph is available in alternative materials such as 18K red gold and a variety of color ways for bezels, dials, and straps. It has a more than adequate 200m/660ft of water resistance. Retail $6,900 USD

Breitling Superocean II 42 (ref. A17365C91B1A1)

The Breitling Superocean II 42 has both the sporty look and performance specs of a serious dive watch. The rubber-molded bezel has aggressive fluting, making it easier to turn with diving gloves, and a lumed pip embedded in a triangle at 12 o’clock. The hour indices are bold, well-lumed Arabic numerals which maximize legibility underwater.

There is a date window at 3 o’clock. The Breitling logo is the less common “B” superimposed over wings and an anchor which highlights its water cred. This reference comes in a black bezel and dial with a matching black strap with bold “Breitling” branding.

There are also  Superocean II 42s that are all blue (including strap) as well as references with a 3-link stainless steel bracelet. The movement is the caliber Breitling 17 with 38 hours of power reserve. The most impressive dive cred spec is its 500m/1650ft of water resistance. This is a perfect watch for tooling around in your submersible and going deep. Retail: $4,790 USD

Breitling Superocean Automatic 46 Black Steel (ref. M173681A1L1S1)

If the 500m/1650ft of water resistance of the previous model won’t do you for some insane reason, then the Superocean 46 Black Steel’s 2000m/6600ft rating provided by its black DLC-coated 46mm diameter beast of a case just might scratch your itch. Seriously, with that type of durability, one can rest assured this Superocean Automatic 46 will get you through most any type of activity both in the ocean and  terra firma.

The bezel is also black DLC-coated stainless steel. The dial, however, is a rich shade of green complemented with lighter green lumed hour indices and handset. The watch has a black rubber strap a black DLC-coated stainless steel clasp that matches the case. This piece is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling 17 automatic movement that serves as the mainstay of much of the Superocean collection. This reference is a limited edition of 200 pieces, but it can still be found through some dealers online and in the secondary market. Retail: $6,250 USD

Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 (ref. U10370121B1X1)

Wearing the Superocean Heritage ’57 is the next best thing to hopping in a time machine and experiencing the vibe of the “OG”. This model family share two hallmarks hearkening back to 1957: 1) a concave, bidirectional ceramic bezel with 5-minute interval markers, and 2) supersized indices on the dial that will improve legibility both underwater and in other conditions. This no-date reference has a 42mm stainless steel case combined with an 18K red gold bezel with black ceramic insert.

The dial design includes a gilted handset and non-lumed gilted indices superimposed on large round lumed indices at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock . The case is a very slender 9.9mm and has a lug width of 20mm. The movement is a COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 10 with a 42 hours of power reserve.

This reference is paired with a brown, calfskin strap and tang buckle, but other models have mesh stainless steel bracelets. With “only” 100M/330ft of water resistance, it’s not designed with serious divers in mind, but it’s perfect for those wanting  a vintage-themed dive watch with modern performance updates. Retail: $5,800 USD

Breitling Endurance Pro (ref. X82310E51B1S)

The quartz Breitling Endurance Pro is not technically a dive watch like those in the Superocean family, but it is designed to handle almost anything you throw at it, including depths to 100m/330ft. Both the black, bidirectional compass bezel and the 44mm case are made of a lightweight proprietary composite material called Breitlight®.

Three subdials showing timing minutes, 1/10th seconds, and running seconds are located at 10, 2, and 6 o’clock, respectively. There are lumed Arabic numeral indices with extra-large ones at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and the Breitling logo and stamp are at 12. There is a date window at 4:30 o’clock, and pushers are located at 2 and 10.

The timing seconds hand, start pusher, timing minutes, and 1/10th seconds hands are all “color-coded” in yellow amid a busy dial that also includes a pulsometer scale in the rehaut. The watch is paired with a 22mm width rubber strap, making it ideal for swap outs. The movement is a highly accurate Breitling 82 “Thermocompensated SuperQuartz™. A tank of a watch for all occasions—except perhaps formal events and black tie dinners. Retail: $3,400 USD

Breitling Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 44 (ref. AB0162121G1S1)

Another stylish and high performance Superocean chronograph is the B01, a 44mm diameter, 15.5mm thick stainless steel model with a black ceramic bezel, silver dial, and black subdials that evoke not only mid-century aesthetic vibes but also the  “panda-like” spirit of another certain brand’s almost impossible to obtain model.

Other dial/subdial colorways in the family include green/black, blue/silver, and blue/black. Timing minutes, timing hours, and running seconds subdials are located at 3,6, and 9 o’clock, and the handset consists of a lumed broad arrow hours hand and a sword-shaped minute hand.

There is a date complication at 4:30 o’clock. The pushers are prominent and extend several millimeters  from the case. The chronograph runs on the Breitling 01 automatic movement which provides a 70 hour power reserve, and its intricate workings are showcased by the sapphire display caseback. This reference has a mesh-like rubber strap and a push button folding clasp, but the B01 is also available in a stainless steel mesh bracelet in other references. Retail: $8,600 USD

Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise (ref. A10340361L1X1)

We now arrive at our final destination, the more playful Superocean 38mm diameter stainless steel Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise. Although assumptions can be dangerous in these “unisex” style days, the Pastel Paradise does seem to be aimed straight at the ladies. The 1957 design cues are there—bidirectional concave bezel and prominent indices—but basic black has bloomed into tone-on-tone dials, ceramic bezels and Saffiano leather straps, including mint green (our reference), white, aquamarine, and iced latte.

This one has a short lug-to-lug distance of 42mm, lug width of 18mm, and a thickness of only 9.3mm, making for a slender silhouette on the wrist and a pleasurable, lightweight wearing experience. Still plenty water resistant at 100m/330ft, it is also highly accurate with its Caliber 10 COSC-certified movement and 42 hour power reserve. The straps have a quick-change system for painless swap outs. The Pastel Paradise is all Superocean, but with  a cheeky attitude. And dudes, if you dig them too, then by all means go for it! Retail: $5,100 USD

Closing Out

I hope I’ve made the case that the Breitling Superocean line is worthy of consideration alongside more famous “big brand” dive watches. Whether you fly high in the clouds or dive the ocean depths, Breitling is standing by waiting to assist. Wearing a Breitling is like owning a piece of history and gaining a trustworthy companion and compass to guide you in charting your own trail to new adventures.

To Top
Shop Now

Grand Seiko Deals

Leaving already?

Check out these latest releases from your favorite brands!

Let’s Go