Samar, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 6 of 16

Author: Samar

best everyday watches

Watches are an amazing accessory that has a place in everyone’s wardrobe. They come in all sorts of shapes and colors, designs, and price points. I strongly believe that somewhere out there is a watch for everyone.

This watch will be a good price, practical, accurate, and good-looking to boot. Today, we’re going to discuss perfect everyday watches that can fit any budget, ranging from affordable to ultra-luxury. Hold on to your hats; we’re in for a wild ride!

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About Everyday Watches

Some watches are built for a specific purpose. For example, a dive watch is most at home in the waters and in the open sea. A dress watch is the perfect accent for a formal suit and tie event. A pilot’s watch is full of useful features that anyone in the skies would appreciate.

An everyday watch is something that can do it all. By that, I mean it can match a variety of outfits, survive the hustle and bustle of everyday life, and look good while doing so. A good watch is like a reliable companion that accompanies you to the office, social events, and home. 

How to Choose the Best Everyday Watch

But what exactly makes the best everyday watch? From the thousands and thousands of models out in the world, how do we know which is the best to choose to strap on our wrist? Three important qualities that everyone should consider are design, build quality, and movement. 

Design: Amazing quality and movement ultimately don’t mean a lot if the design just isn’t there. After all, this is something you’re buying with your own money and are going to look at constantly throughout the day. For everyday watches, inner and outer beauty are important. 

Build Quality: Besides looking good, the watches need to be built to last. For the money you’re putting down, you need to have assurances that what you’re paying for is quality for the money. Expectations vary based on the price point, but any watch good enough for this list is going to be something you’re proud of wearing. 

Movement: The movement is the heartbeat inside every watch. It spins and spins and powers the little friend on our wrist. Movements can vary greatly in quality. Some are universally used movements like with many ETA-based watches, or they might be an in-house movement. They can even be quartz battery-operated. No matter what the movement is, it needs to keep accurate time. 

The Best Everyday Watches

1. Seiko SRPE55K1

Seiko SRPE55K1

Seiko, the Japanese watchmaking giant, has a watch for any situation and budget. It only makes sense for them to have a great everyday watch as well. What we have here is an example from the budget-friendly and much-loved Seiko 5 line. 

This minimalistic watch has a simple and clear black dial with a very useful day-date complication at the 3 o’clock position. A 40mm case size and comfortable 11.5mm thickness make this easily slide on the wrist. And with the hearty 4R36 movement and reasonable $275 price point, what’s not to love?

2. Citizen Tsuyosa (ref. NJ0150-81L)

Citizen Tsuyosa (ref. NJ0150-81L)

The second Japanese watch on the list is an offering from another big name in the watch game, Citizen. The Tsuyosa,” or “power” in English, is an excellent choice for an everyday watch because of its affordability, readability, and colorful dial options. 

The model number here has a simple black dial, but for people who want a splash of color on their wrist, there are green, blue, and even yellow options. The Cyclops magnifying the date is just another fun feature that this everyday watch has to offer. The case is smooth and neatly finished, with brushed vertical stripes and polished edges to complement the compact case.

You can usually find the Citizen Tsuyosa for around $300, depending on the color you choose.

3. Hamilton Khaki Field Auto (ref. H70455133)

Hamilton Khaki Field Auto (ref. H70455133)

Hamilton charges into the field with a sturdy and practical everyday watch. As one of Hamilton’s flagship models, the Field is packed with quality for a great price. Unlike the previous Citizen Tsuyosa, you won’t find bright colors in this daring field watch. Hamilton watches are made to last and tell the time. There aren’t any added frills here. 

The Field is clearly labeled with the normal 1 to 12 numeral to mark the hours, but it also includes an inner ring to help with 24-hour time. Most of the Khaki Field lineup is military-inspired, and the clear markers and bright red-tipped second hand are reminiscent of watches that are there to serve. With a nearly 80-hour power reserve and slim 38mm case size, this is a serious contender for an everyday watch.

The Khaki Field Auto retails for $725.

4. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 (ref. T127.407.11.041.00)

Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 (ref. T127.407.11.041.00)

Tissot as a brand has really evolved in the past few years. It occupies a spot on the massive Swatch Group’s pyramid of brands as affordable luxury and has made advancements that are extremely impressive for the price bracket. 

An example is the Gentleman Powermatic 80, a series of watches with an impressive 80 hours of power reserve. It gets that power reserve from the expertly calibrated POWERMATIC 80.811 automatic movement. A few shakes of the wrist and regular wear will ensure this watch is always running. It can still be running even with a 3-day vacation. For an everyday watch, the power reserve is certainly something to think about! 

The Tissot Gentleman has a retail price of $775.

5. Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Automatic

One of the best aspects of the C63 Sealander is the amazing care to finishing on the watch. The lines are clean and very nice to look at. There are no sharp edges, and the polish is bright and mirror-like. 

Like the amazingly priced Trident collection from Christopher Ward, one of the coolest details is the trident-tipped second hand. This three-pronged weapon adds a bold touch to this excellent everyday watch. There are numerous color and bracelet options for the watch, which adds an excellent layer of customizability. My personal favorite is the snow-white dial with the amazingly finished stainless steel bracelet, a truly great-looking combination. 

And it can be yours for a little under $1,000.

6. Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto 

The Intra-matic models take inspiration from many dress watches from the mid-60s to early 70s, going for a minimalistic, mid-century design that embodies a vintage American look. The 38mm stainless steel case gleams with elegance, having a perfectly polished finish, and the beige dial gives it a subtle flare that pairs nicely with the smooth calf leather strap.

This kind of design is something that really sits well with me. I love a watch that is aware enough of itself to not overplay its hand. If it was too bold, it would come across as tacky, but the subtle elegance that Hamilton was able to pull off is truly admirable. 

It is an automatic watch with a Caliber 2892-A2 in the center, giving it a power reserve of 42 hours. The water resistance is 50m. 

The retail price is $1,045

7. Longines Conquest 39 (ref. L3.776.4.58.6)

Longines Conquest 39 (ref. L3.776.4.58.6)

Any watch with the iconic winged hourglass logo of Longines is sure to be a stunning watch. The Conquest is Longines’ rugged answer to the need for an everyday watch. One of the first things you see is the massive 12 and 6 on the face of the dial. There certainly isn’t mistaking what hours the watch hands are pointing to with that large, imposing font. 

On the back of the watch is a deeply engraved caseback featuring the winged hourglass. The caseback protects the Longines caliber L888 3-hand automatic movement, featuring a 72-hour power reserve. This watch is sure to grab some attention when used as an everyday watch! 

The Longines Conquest has a retail price of $1,300.

8. Sinn 556

Sinn 556

The Sinn 556 is a fan favorite in the watch community. The impressive quality and case finishing accompanies the starkly contrasting dial. A deep, rich black dial is the backdrop for the gleaming white hour markers and attractive sword hands. The color contrast is quite exciting and noticeable. 

Besides the brand name on the dial and the simply printed “Automatic” at the bottom, there is only a small cutout for the date window. It is barely noticeable and has the same contrasting black and white color. As an everyday watch, it has 200 meters of water resistance, satinized stainless steel case construction, and the Sellita SW200-1 Automatic movement beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour.

You can find the Sinn 556 for around $1,500.

9. NOMOS Club Campus 38 (ref. 735)

NOMOS Club Campus 38 (ref. 735)

A watch from the German watch brand Nomos is exciting, modern, and classy. All of their watches have a unique look to them that has garnered high praise from happy owners. From the name, I can see this watch being a favorite of smart and chic students on a modern college campus. 

But anyone can appreciate the fun California dial (where half of the dial is Arabic numerals, and the other half is Roman numerals) and soothing color scheme. Soft, muted blues and oranges fit perfectly on the pastel dial. 

The 38mm case size is actually quite large due to the design of the case. There is only a thin bezel shape and case that houses the watch, making it seem larger than it is. Inside the watch is a Nomos hand-finished winding movement, which adds to this everyday watch’s charm. 

The Club Campus 38 retails for $1,650.

10. Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer (ref. NM9026C-S27C-BK)

Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer (ref. NM9026C-S27C-BK)

One of the most exciting features of every Ball watch is the incredible, gorgeous lume that is applied to the hands and hour markers. Under low light conditions, the 27 micro gas tubes enhance visibility and glow bright green and orange. 

The appropriately named “Marvelight” is really a marvel to the eyes. There will be no trouble at all seeing the time and date on this watch. This is the third iteration of the Engineer series from Ball, and as a chronometer, the watch is wickedly accurate. On the seconds hand is the intricately detailed Ball logo, and the Cyclops magnified date window is bold, chunky, and exciting.

This amazing watch from Ball retails for $2,449. 

11. TAG Heuer Carrera (ref. WBN2010.BA0640)

TAG Heuer Carrera (ref. WBN2010.BA0640)

The TAG Heuer Carrera stays true to its racing-inspired name. The sleek and modern Carrera oozes with coolness. One of the best details on the watch is the extremely precise circular pattern on the dial. The black dial is distinct, shiny, and extremely clear. The day-date window adds usefulness and practicality to this sports watch. There is a really enjoyable depth to the watch, and the flat sapphire glass looks almost see-through. 

TAG Heuer has updated and improved the stainless steel bracelet. The H bracelet has been slimmed down and includes an extra secure folding clasp with double safety buttons. 

The watch has a retail price of $3,450.

12. Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

The Tudor Ranger is a utilitarian pick for an everyday watch. There are no fancy frills here, only good, high-quality watchmaking. The Ranger design is simple and practical, with enlarged Arabic numerals at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. Instead of a simple baton or sword hand, Tudor uses a large arrowhead on the hour hand.

The seconds hand is also visually interesting, tapering to a rectangular shape with a red tip. This model comes with an excellent stainless steel bracelet with a very satisfying-to-use clasp. The modern 39mm case size is suitable for anyone, and the Caliber MT5402 is COSC certified. 

The Tudor Ranger retails for $3,150.

13. Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403 (ref. 01 403 7776 4065-07 5 19 11)

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Caliber 403 (ref. 01 403 7776 4065-07 5 19 11)

Oris has really impressed the watch world with their development as a brand. One of the brand’s crowning achievements is the development of its own line of meticulously sculpted in-house movements. This kind of development takes time, money, and dedication and really puts a brand on the next level. 

One of these great in-house movements can be found in this Big Crown model from Oris. It features a highly legible and clear dial with a small seconds complication at the 6 o’clock position. Instead of a normal date window, the bright red pointer hand points to the date on the dial. 

The extremely impressive Caliber 403 in-house automatic movement makes the small seconds and pointer date complication possible. Oris crafted a movement with extra-strong anti-magnetism properties, razor-sharp accuracy, an enormous 5-day power reserve, and a generous 10-year warranty on top of all that. 

Oris seriously impresses with this in-house movement, but for the more budget-conscious buyer, the same model watch can also be bought with a more affordable Sellita-based movement.

Still, if you want the in-house caliber, it’ll run you back about $3,700.

14. Panerai Radiomir (ref. PAM00753)

Panerai Radiomir (ref. PAM00753)

The Radiomir is one of the largest watches on this list, at 45mm. However, a lot of this size goes into the square cushion-style case, which lies flat and comfortably on the wrist. The rounded square edges also blend into the lugs, which look surprisingly thin compared to the large stainless steel cushion it is attached to. The dial is simple and very easy to read with the huge Arabic numerals. 

At the 6 o’clock position is an interesting logo that is sure to delight fans of the military and military-style watches. It is the Radiomir Black Seal, a tribute to the Italian Royal Navy’s frogmen or elite combat divers. Befitting this tribute is the 100 meters of water resistance. The 3-day power reserve from the Caliber P6000 hand-winding mechanical movement is also notable. 

This Radiomir reference retails for $4,700.

15. IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

IWC watches are named after military vehicles and aircraft. The Mark XX is the latest in the line of IWC’s popular pilot watches. The design remains unchanged and faithful to the classic pilot design. All the features are there – the large triangle at the 12 o’clock position, large Arabic numerals, and precise minute markers. The huge sword hands help with the legibility and are generously painted with lume. 

The fighter plane etched on the caseback is a nod to IWC’s rich military history. The movement is the Caliber 32111, an automatic and self-winding movement with 120 hours of power reserve. Further decorating the movement is the Côtes de Genève, a sign of great care and engineering. 

The Mark XX retails for $5,250.

16. Zenith Defy Classic (ref. 95.9000.670/51.R584)

Zenith Defy Classic (ref. 95.9000.670/51.R584)

Zenith shines bright with the Defy Classic, our choice for an everyday watch. I simply love how the case seamlessly transitions to the blue leather strap. The angular case is brushed to perfection. The stainless steel matches perfectly with the blue sunray dial, which has the Zenith star proudly shining on top of the logo. 

Another star can be seen on the seconds hand, like a star shifting positions in the night sky. This quintessential Defy watch is powered by Zenith’s Elite caliber movements, with a 50-hour power reserve and an automatic winding mechanism that is the perfect base for additional complications in other models. 

The watch has an approximate retail price of $6,500.

17. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. 220.10.41.21.03.004)

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. 220.10.41.21.03.004)

The Aqua Terra is a gorgeous and elegant tribute to Omega’s maritime history. This is most evident in the “teak” pattern on the dial, which is reminiscent of the wooden decks of luxury seacraft. This “teak” shines with a brilliant blue finish. Omega proudly states that this watch has been rigorously tested for accuracy and durability. 

They have increased the anti-magnetic properties, subjected the timepiece to testing over 10 days, and improved the finishing on the stainless steel case. The Omega Caliber 8900 is certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS), ensuring buyers that this everyday watch is truly a cut above the rest. 

The Aqua Terra retails for $5,900.

18. Rolex Explorer I (ref. 124270)

Rolex Explorer I (ref. 124270)

For many, Rolex is the only luxury watch brand in the world. The love for Rolex is evident in their dedicated followers who closely watch for news from their favorite brand. The Explorer is one of the most recognizable Rolex models, known for its handsome, rugged practicality. Just based on the name, Rolex envisions this watch as something that can see the world and live to tell the tale. 

As a reminder of its ruggedness, Rolex’s signature Oyster case is available in a new 40mm dimension for the Explorer. The proprietary Oystersteel will look flawless and beautiful for years to come. The Chromalight-painted hour markers and hands provide maximum visibility and glow brilliantly in the dark and give off a shiny white color in the light.

This Explorer reference retails for $7,250, but you should expect to pay around $9,000 to $10,000 in the secondary market.

19. Cartier Santos Large Model (ref. CRWSSA0018)

Cartier Santos Large Model (ref. CRWSSA0018)

The Cartier Santos is an icon in the watch world. Cartier is able to tell the world it made the “first men’s watch” with the Santos model in 1911. The square shape is unmistakable, along with the screws on the bezel and dotted along the bracelet. 

The Santos comes in a variety of sizes and configurations, and this model, in particular, is the larger variant, with dimensions of 39.8mm x 47.5mm. On the crown is the signature deep blue sapphire-tipped crown. 

Cartier also includes a leather strap of your color of choice, adding a pop of color to this historic piece. It’s easy to quickly switch from a metal bracelet to leather with the easy-to-use strap change system. They even add the option to include an engraving, which further customizes the watch. 

The Santos has a retail price of $7,450.

20. Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Blue (ref. 542.NX.7170.RX)

Hublot Classic Fusion Titanium Blue (ref. 542.NX.7170.RX)

Hublot, the daring Swiss brand, offers a surprisingly understated watch with the Classic Fusion. Hublot watches are unapologetic, loud, and demand attention. The Classic Fusion model is available in a wide variety of sizes, and this particular model is dyed a rich blue color. It’s a delight to see the sun reflecting off the dial. 

Hublot opts for a fully satin-finished and polished titanium case, which is lightweight and scratch-resistant. This makes the Classic Fusion an easy-to-wear everyday watch with plenty of detail. One of the best features is the blue-lined rubber strap, which matches the dial and increases comfort.  

This beautiful watch retails for $7,600.

21. Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic (ref. Q9008180)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic (ref. Q9008180)

The Polaris is an exciting release from Jaeger-LeCoultre, the “watchmaker’s watchmaker.” When people hear the name Jaeger-LeCoultre, they probably think of the Reverso (also an excellent everyday watch, if I might add). The Polaris is a fully modern sports watch with a contemporary design, sizing, and appeal. I especially love the symmetry in the dial. 

There’s no date window to interfere with that perfect symmetry. The stainless steel bracelet is extremely comfortable and feels like velvet on the wrist. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 898 automatic movement can delightfully be seen behind the clear sapphire caseback, beating at 28,800 vibrations per hour and beautifully accented by a customized rotor with the JLC logo. 

The Polaris has a retail price of $8,400.

22. Grand Seiko SLGA021

Grand Seiko SLGA021

Many Grand Seiko models have an otherworldly sort of beauty to them. Grand Seiko describes them as reflections of the beauty of Japan. The SLGA021 is no exception to this. Inspired by the rolling waves of Lake Suwa, the wavy pattern on the dial is dyed a deep, mysterious blue. The texturing on the dial really makes it seem like diving into the gentle waters of Lake Suwa. The Zaratsu polishing makes the watch gleam in the light. 

The movement is particularly exciting. Featuring Grand Seiko’s signature 9R Spring Drive movement, the watch has a simply amazing 5-day power reserve. This is made possible by Grand Seiko’s own innovations and painstaking attention to detail. Along with this impressive power reserve is accuracy within 1 second a day, a feat that few can replicate. 

This exciting Grand Seiko timepiece can be yours for $9,100.

23. Girard-Perregaux Laureato (ref. 81010-11-3153-1CM)

Girard-Perregaux Laureato (ref. 81010-11-3153-1CM)

Girard-Perregaux is an underrated brand that needs more attention. The Laureato is a 42mm timeless tribute to its original 1975 design. The case shape, in particular, is quite interesting. It is like an octagon fashioned on top of a circle, which provides a lot of visual interest. The bright, verdant green color makes the watch pop, like a walk through a forest full of life. 

The integrated steel bracelet flows seamlessly from the case, and the deeply etched pattern on the dial is a wonder to look at. The Caliber GPO1800, with a power reserve of 52 hours, shows great attention to detail. It features mirror polishing, satin finishing, deep engravings, and more. The Côtes de Genève is another embellishment that strengthens the brand’s association with high-horology watchmaking. 

And all of this for a retail price of $14,300.

24. Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B126)

Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B126)

As one of the Holy Trinity, or Big Three (Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin), Vacheron Constantin occupies the ultra-luxury section of the watch market. Any masterpiece from these brands is made of the finest materials and to the highest standards.

The Overseas is one such masterpiece from Vacheron Constantin, the brand’s quintessential everyday watch. Housing the gorgeous movement that contains 22K gold is a hand-polished, satin-finished steel case. 

The Caliber 5100 is one of the latest movements by the brand, featuring a generously decorated oscillating weight with a wind rose design. The Maltese cross is evident in numerous places on the watch. It’s on the logo, the crown, the movement, and even subtly built into the gorgeous, folded bracelet. 

The Overseas retails for $22,500, but you should expect to pay around $30,000 in the secondary market.

25. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15500ST.OO.1220ST.01)

The Royal Oak is Audemars Piguet’s most recognizable and desirable watch. The ultra-comfortable and feathery lightweight, amazingly crafted bracelet and case have delighted watch lovers for years since its inception in 1972. Wearing a Royal Oak shows heritage, class, and love for simply amazing watches. 

The model listed here is the essential Royal Oak. There’s no chronograph or moonphase or anything extra, only a date window and the impeccable blue waffle “Grand Tapisserie” dial. The signature and painstakingly placed 8 screws that dot the bezel are shiny and uniform. Underneath the luxurious steel is the Caliber 4302 self-winding movement, made up of 257 individual parts expertly crafted to perfection.

Despite its retail price of just below $20,000, you can expect to pay around $60,000 to $70,000 in the secondary market.

26. Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

We’ve reached the most luxurious and ultimate everyday watch with the Patek Phillipe Nautilus. Anyone fortunate enough to be thinking about everyday watches in this ultra-luxury price range can look no further than the legendary Patek Phillipe Nautilus.

Some people dream of having the chance to handle one of these timepieces, let alone own one. The Nautilus is an accurate and faithful representation of the Gerald Genta design from 1976. 

Adding to the luxury is the radiant white gold case and bracelet and vibrant sunburst dial. Also present are the numerous innovations that Patek Phillipe has added to the watch, including a new lockable adjustment system and an innovative lever system that replaces the brand’s previous split stem mechanism. Feel like a king with this by your side! 

This latest Nautilus reference retails for just under $70,000, but you can expect to pay about $170,000 to $190,000 for one in the secondary market.

Conclusion

Just like how there’s plenty of fish in the sea, there’s an amazing everyday watch out there for you! These kinds of watches can do it all and look good while doing so. No matter the budget, we’ve shown you amazing pieces that range from affordable to ultra-luxury. If you’re lucky, you might even find the perfect watch that fits a “one watch only collection.” We’ve given you a sample here, so get out there and find your match! 

 

best mechanical watches

Mechanical watches are timepieces that utilize non-electronic means of keeping the time. Just about any watch that isn’t quartz (save for Grand Seiko, but more on that later) is considered a mechanical watch. While the original mechanical watches were all hand-wound, the technology eventually advanced to the point where self-winding or automatic watches became the standard. 

While mechanical watches aren’t necessarily the most high-tech timepieces on the market, there’s just something special about that analog feel you get with a traditional mechanical watch. That’s why the luxury watch market is mostly comprised of mechanical watches rather than quartz watches.

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Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Seiko 5 Sports

SRPD55

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 42mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Seiko Prospex

SPB143

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 40.5mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Longines

Flagship Heritage L4.795.4.58.0

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 38.5mm

What Is a Mechanical Watch?

Mechanical watches utilize a mainspring which is wound to release that energy in short bursts, using gears to keep accurate time. Even though the first mechanical watches had to be wound by hand in order to keep time, the development of automatic watches allowed for a rotor that spins using the movement of your hand to continuously wind the mainspring.

There’s beauty, and some might even say romance, to the inner and outer workings of a mechanical watch. A mechanical watch releases energy in small quick bursts, which allows the second hand to sweep somewhat smoothly across the dial. This is a pleasing sight to most watch collectors and something that a quartz watch simply can’t replicate.

In the late 1960’s Japanese watchmakers developed the quartz movement, which allowed for a battery to send an electrical signal through a quartz crystal, which would regulate the time. It was more accurate than most mechanical watches and never needed to be wound. 

The main disadvantage to quartz was that you had to continually change the battery. However, to some watch collectors, quartz is too clinical and cold. They prefer the mechanical heartbeat of a hand-wound or automatic watch, and quartz just can’t scratch that itch.

The most obvious external difference between a mechanical watch and a quartz watch is the second hand. As stated above, mechanical watches tend to have a smooth sweep of the second hand

On the other hand, quartz watches tick one second at a time, which is manifested in a slowly ticking second hand across the dial. While it doesn’t have an impact on the accuracy of the watch, it’s something that’s just not as pleasing to many collectors as that smooth mechanical sweep.

Types of Mechanical Watches

Hand-wound mechanical watches are just as they sound, wound by hand. These were the first mechanical watches that were available. Every day or two, a hand-wound mechanical watch must have its crown rotated.

This builds up the energy in the mainspring, which gets released throughout the day, allowing the timepiece to keep accurate time. Later, watchmakers and engineers developed the automatic movement. While this movement works in essentially the same way as a hand-wound one, there’s a single difference.

Rather than requiring the crown to be rotated, the watch has an internal weighted rotor. The rotor spins around whenever the user walks or moves their hands, winding the mainspring. This allows for a more user-friendly and less labor-intensive experience for the wearer.

The Best Mechanical Watches

That’s why we’ve compiled this list of the 20 best mechanical watches at every price level. Because you shouldn’t have to sacrifice the joy of having a mechanical watch on your wrist just because of the cost. Read on to see the best options at every price point, and you’re sure to find at least one that meets your needs.

Seiko SRPD55

Seiko SRPD55

Seiko is known for having high-quality watches at nearly every price point, so it’s fitting that we start our list with this classic Seiko option. The SRPD55 comes from the vaunted Seiko 5 collection of steel sports watches. It has a diameter of 42.5mm, making it both comfortable and legible. 

It also includes an automatic Seiko movement with a 41-hour power reserve, a unidirectional rotating dive bezel, and a tri-fold clasp. To top it off, the SRPD utilizes Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite lume and Hardlex crystal, offering a whole lot of bang for your buck. Wear this beauty out in the water, and you’ll likely garner as much respect as those wearing a Rolex Submariner. 

This watch is priced at $295.

Seagull 1963

Seagull 1963

Seagull is a brand with an interesting history. Initially conceptualized by the Chinese government in the mid-20th century, Seagull was first created to create high-quality watches for the Chinese military. This model, ref. 6345G-2901 is a reimagining of their original 1963 hand-wound chronograph manufactured for the Chinese Air Force. 

The movement is a Seagull ST21, based on the classic Venus hand-wound movement. When Swiss company Venus needed to sell all their old movement-making equipment, the Chinese government purchased it and installed it in their factory.

The watch comes with a classically-sized 38mm case, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, 21,600 VPH, and a 45-hour power reserve when fully wound. This is an affordable watch with looks, heritage, and functionality, all for less than $400.

This watch is priced at approximately $400.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

When it comes to legendary field watches, few models are more respected than the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. This particular model, ref. H69439931 comes with a traditional case size of 38mm, the Hamilton H-50 hand-wound movement, and availability on a steel bracelet or fabric nato strap. 

This watch is all about braving the great outdoors and getting home safely. The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical has a loyal following, even among those who collect watches in the tens of thousands of dollars. It’s a dependable workhorse and one with real heritage and history. And it comes at a great price to boot, so what are you waiting for?

This watch is priced at $575.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Blue Dial

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Blue Dial

The Tissot PRX, ref. T137.407.11.041.00 is a watch that was released using inspiration from one of their earlier models from the late 1970s and early 1980s. Utilizing a slim integrated bracelet and modern case design, the PRX quickly became a “must-have” throughout the greater watch community. 

It utilizes Tissot’s famed Powermatic 80 automatic movement that boasts a whopping 80-hour power reserve. The case measures 40mm in diameter and includes a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a display case back, and a beautiful textured dial.

If you want to be in with the cool watch crowd but don’t want to spend thousands, then the PRX is the way to go. It also comes in a black and a gorgeous deep green dial variant. 

This watch is priced at $675.

Seiko Prospex SPB143

Seiko Prospex SPB143

Seiko is a giant in the world of watches at almost every level. This solid diver that can be found for less than $1000 is the perfect example of why the Japanese brand is so revered. It has a perfect diameter of 40.5mm, 200m of water resistance, a 24-jewel Seiko automatic movement, and a full 70 hours of power reserve. Unlike many other Seiko divers, this one comes with a solid sapphire crystal rather than Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex, making it even more durable for those long days in the water.

This watch is priced at $575.

Longines Flagship Heritage 

Longines Flagship Heritage

Longines is a legacy Swiss brand that offers something for just about anyone in the watch world. With their Flagship Heritage models, they went back to their roots and delivered a classic dress watch.

Offered in silver and black dial models, this (ref.L47954782) 38.5mm stunner has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a small seconds function, a 6 o’clock date window, and an automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve. This gorgeous watch is perfect for a night out on the town or a day at the office. 

This watch is priced at $1200.

Oris Aquis Caliber 400

Oris Aquis Caliber 400

Oris creates some of the best mid-range dive watches on the market. The foundation of their dive watch line, with good reason, is the Aquis Caliber 400 (ref. 01 400 7763 4135.) Available in a few different colors, the Aquis Caliber 400 comes in a sturdy 43.5mm case.

It’s also available in a slightly less expensive option, with a third-party movement. This one has all the bells and whistles of a luxury dive watch, including a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a self-winding automatic movement, and a gorgeous ceramic bezel insert.

But the Aquis isn’t just another pretty face (although it has that too). You get a depth rating of 300 meters, so this is a real diver that can take a whole lot of wear and tear in the water.

This watch is priced at $3700.

Oris Pro Pilot X Caliber 400

Oris Pro Pilot X Caliber 400

While Oris may be best known for their dive watches, their pilot watches are almost as popular. The Pro Pilot X is a gorgeous line incorporating Oris’ heritage of pilot’s watches with modern design and materials. The beautiful textured outer bezel gives the watch dimension, while the dial is all about refinement and simplicity, also offering a date window at 6 o’clock. 

The case and the bracelet are both made from lightweight titanium, making this one of the most comfortable watches you’ll ever own. It also has a power reserve of 120 hours, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown which helps the watch offer a water resistance of 100 meters. While this blue variation (ref.  01 400 7778 7155-07 7 20 01TLC) is lovely, it also comes in gray or bright salmon colors.

This watch is priced at $4300.

Tudor Black Bay 58

Tudor Black Bay 58

What can we say about the Tudor Black Bay 58 (ref.M79030N-0001) that hasn’t already been said? It has a diameter of 39mm, a sapphire crystal, snowflake hands, a 70-hour power reserve, and a screw-down crown with 200 meters of water resistance.

The design of the case and the dial go back to the days of vintage Rolex and Tudor divers, and the smaller case size takes those similarities even further. 

The watch’s name was derived from the first-ever Tudor dive watch. It’s an example of how going back to what made a brand great in the first place can take them even further. The Tudor Black Bay 58 just might be the perfect dive watch for anyone. 

This watch is priced at $4300.

IWC Mark XX

IWC Mark XX

IWC made a name for themselves by creating legendary pilot’s watches. The famed Schaffhausen watchmaker has created some of the most iconic timepieces of the past century, and the Mark XX (ref. IW328204) lives up to that standard.

IWC is one of the most underappreciated brands in the Swiss watch market, especially in terms of its value proposition. With its straightforward pilot dial design and gorgeous blue color, this watch is just as impressive at a fancy dinner party as it is in the cockpit.

It has a moderate width of 40mm but a surprisingly svelte height of just 10.8mm, making it fit perfectly under a cuff. The three o’clock date window and automatic movement with 120 hours of power reserve make this model fly out of boutiques, so get one while you still can.

This watch is priced at $3950.

Grand Seiko SBGA211

Grand Seiko SBGA211

Grand Seiko is all about beauty and precision. The SBGA211 offers all that and more. Starting with perhaps the best thing about this watch, it’s powered by Seiko’s patented Spring Drive movement. The Spring Drive is a mechanical movement that uses a quartz crystal to regulate timekeeping. 

This means it has the best of both worlds, combining the romance of mechanical watchmaking with the technical superiority of quartz technology. That gives it an accuracy of plus or minus one second per day.

It also has a power reserve display and one of the most stunning textured dials you’ll find anywhere. Add to that a lightweight titanium case and 100 meters of water resistance, and you might never need to own another watch again.

This watch is priced at $6200.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M

The Omega Seamaster range offers a real dive watch for real divers. That’s not to say that everyone else can’t enjoy it just as much. This gorgeous blue dial watch (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001) has the signature Seamaster wave pattern, a 42mm case size, the Omega caliber 8800 movement, with George Daniels’ famed coaxial escapement, and 300 meters of water resistance. 

On top of all that, the AR-coated sapphire crystal will stay pristine for years, and the comfortable steel bracelet will make you forget that you’re even wearing a watch, even in the harsh sea elements. In addition to the standard Seamaster Diver 300M, the Seamaster Aqua Terra is a great alternative for those who want all of the technical benefits of a dive watch but prefer a more simple and dressy look. After all, the Seamaster Diver 300M and the Aqua Terra were good enough for James Bond, so they should be good enough for you!

This watch is priced at $5600.

Omega Speedmaster Professional

Omega Speedmaster Professional

We love this watch to the moon and back, as did the astronauts. The Speedmaster Professional (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002) is one of the most widely recognized watches in the world, mainly because it left this world on a rocket ship.

The iconic chronograph is one of the most robust and accurate timepieces available on the market. The standard Speedmaster Professional model has a hand-wound in-house chronograph movement and a diameter of 42mm but wears closer to 40mm or 41mm because of the tachymeter that runs around the outside. 

The dial is monochromatic and highly legible, making for the perfect tool watch for all of your timekeeping needs. If you’re a history buff and appreciate beautiful watches, then the Speedmaster Professional has everything you’ll ever want in a watch.

For those who really want to own a piece of history, the famed Omega 321 movement Speedmaster might be worth buying. This is the same as the standard Speedmaster Professional, but the movement is almost identical to the one that was in the very first Speedmaster “moon watch”.

This watch is priced at $7600.

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date

Glashütte Original is a German watch brand that’s known for its classic styling and impressive attention to detail. The Sixties Panorama Date (ref. 2-39-47-06-02-04) is a great dress or casual watch, depending on how you style it. The bright blue sunburst dial is joyful and bold, and the vintage-style roman numerals and stick indices are pure class. 

The watch features a diameter of 42mm, a beautifully branded tang buckle clasp, 40 hours of power reserve, and a domed sapphire crystal. It also includes a convenient date window just above the six o’clock position, a function that most people use even more than they ever expected.

This watch is priced at $8000.

Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex GMT Master II

Rolex is perhaps the most widely-known watch brand in the world. And the GMT Master II (ref. 126710BLRO) is just one of the reasons that the brand is so popular. GMT stands for Greenwich Mean Time. This watch allows you to track three time zones simultaneously, using an additional GMT hour hand and a rotating 24-hour bezel. 

The 100 meters of water resistance and convenient 40mm size make it a great everyday watch. The iconic red and blue “Pepsi” bezel makes this watch an absolute stunner that’s sure to inspire plenty of second looks. It’s one of the most iconic watches of all time and one that watch connoisseurs love all over the world.

This watch has an MSRP of $10700.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

If Rolex is the most famous watch brand in the world, then the Daytona (ref. 116500LN) just might be the most famous watch in the world. This gorgeous slim chronograph has been worn on the wrist of racing legends and movie stars alike. In the case of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, those two people are one and the same.

The watch has a diminutive profile at 40mm but a huge historical presence. The tri-compax design is appealing to the eye but not too flashy.

It has 100 meters of water resistance due to the screw-down crown and pushers, an uncommon feature for chronographs. The black and silver monochromatic design is stunning in the light, and the watch goes with almost any type of dress, casual to formal.

This watch has an MSRP of $14800.

Hublot Big Bang Black Magic

Hublot Big Bang Black Magic

Hublot has gained popularity in recent years for its bold design language and sense of fun. The Big Bang Black Magic (301.CM.130.RX) has plenty of both. With a substantial size of 44mm, this watch makes a statement. The black riveted bezel and rubber strap complement the functional and highly legible chronograph dial. 

It has an automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance. This watch is tough and durable, and it looks the part. 

This watch is priced at approximately $16000.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Vacheron Constantin is one of the “Holy Trinity”, as it’s called in watchmaking. It’s a legacy brand respected for its attention to detail and beautiful dials. When looking at this Overseas model (ref. 4500V/110A-B128), it’s no surprise.

The bright blue dial mimics the color of the ocean at different times of day, and the 41mm case size is perfect for everyday use. The watch has a water resistance of 150 meters and an AR-coated scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, so it’s much more than just another pretty face. 

This watch has an MSRP of $22500.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

Another “Holy Trinity” brand, Audemars Piguet, has a virtual gold mine when it comes to their Royal Oak model (ref. 15202). Designed by legendary watch designer Gerald Genta, this 1970s-era sports model has captured the imagination of watch lovers the world over. It has a diameter of 39mm but wears much larger. 

The stylish integrated bracelet design has been copied by hundreds of other watch brands, and with good reason. It’s a stunning look on the wrist and one that is not easily ignored. The dial is no slouch, either. The gray-blue color with the “Petite Tapisserie” texture is subtle but confident. It also has an in-house automatic movement with 40 hours of power reserve and a respectable 50 meters of water resistance. 

This watch has an MSRP of $33200.

Patek Philippe Nautilus

Patek Philippe is perhaps the most revered watchmaker of all time. Their watches offer timeless style and undeniable quality. The Nautilus (ref. 5711), similar to the AP Royal Oak, is a classic 1970s sports watch design that will likely never go out of style. 

The geometrically shaped case and striped dial design are instantly recognizable, and it has real sports watch pedigree as well. The steel construction, automatic movement with 42 hours of power reserve, sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance make the Nautilus a giant among watches.

This watch has an MSRP of $34800.

Patek Philippe Calatrava

With a stellar appeal between generations of watch lovers, the Patek Philippe Calatrava is as loud as it is subtle. Of course, this depends on which one you go with from the collection, but they all have more than enough to love.

More specifically, a fan favorite of mine is the 5227 J, which comes in a classic yellow-gold colorway. I also really love the simplicity of the beige-looking dial. The minor curvatures reflect light perfectly, and the self-winding mechanical movement is smoother than you might expect. I’m a huge sucker for simplicity in high-end watches, and Patek Philippe nailed it with the Calatrava series.

This watch comes with an MSRP of $41,710.

Conclusion

Mechanical watches are a true beauty to observe due to their intricate moving parts. Thankfully, there are several options for watch enthusiasts to enjoy these engineering marvels across all budgets

I hope this list of the 20 best mechanical watches sparked an interest in starting your own mechanical watch collection. If you do, consider shopping at Exquisite Timepieces. We have a huge selection of affordable and luxury mechanical watches, and our team of experts is always available to help you choose the best one!

tissot powermatic 80 watches

Whether you are a seasoned collector or just getting your footing in the hobby, there is one thing that we can all agree on. The Tissot watch company is absolutely on fire right now. They are at the top of almost every list for value for money and have released hit after hit in the past several years.

Despite a history dating back to 1853, Tissot has not always had the same level of cache they currently own. Being part of the Swiss watch conglomerate SWATCH Group has, in many ways, helped them while also allowing them to get lost in the shuffle.

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Tissot’s brand positioning within the SWATCH Group is very congested, to say the least. Hamilton, Certina, Mido, and even some Longines models are all battling in the same category to earn your entry-level luxury dollars. Because they are owned by the same group and are in the same price range, there tends to be a lot of overlap between models.

Thankfully over the last few years, the brands within the SWATCH Group have started to dive more into their historical collections and let their unique design language come through. No brand has had more success with this new distinctiveness than Tissot. 

One thing that many of these brands still tend to share, however, is the use of SWATCH Group-owned ETA and their industry-leading movement manufacturing capabilities. If you compare watches from these brands, many will sport a Powermatic 80 automatic movement.

These movements represent a new direction for the entry-level luxury segment, and when you combine this technology with the segment-leading design, the reasons for Tissot’s surge in popularity become clear to see.

About the Powermatic 80 Movement

What exactly makes this Powermatic 80 movement so special? The main architecture for this movement is based on the tried and true ETA 2824. There are a few differences that help set this new movement apart. As the name suggests, the power reserve of this new movement has been extended to 80 hours from the 38 hours found on a standard ETA 2824.

ETA achieved this increased power reserve by improving their spring barrel and decreasing the beat frequency of the movement from 4Hz, or 28,800 beats per hour, to 3Hz, or 21,600 beats per hour. 

This decreased beat frequency utilizes less energy from the movement to accurately measure the time. Historically speaking, this lower beat frequency had a less than a favorable consequence of less accurate timing. Thankfully for Tissot, ETA was able to help counteract this effect with one of the other enhancements to the Powermatic 80.

These Powermatic 80 movements are laser-regulated in the factory. This does have the unfortunate consequence of making watchmaker regulation considerably more difficult, but if the last few years are anything to go by, the accuracy has been astounding!

The Powermatic 80 is an incredibly accurate movement (why wouldn’t it be; it’s been regulated by actual lasers!) that does not see any accuracy depreciation from its lower beat frequency. Another enhancement in the Powermatic 80 movement is in its magnetic resistance.

ETA went through great effort to ensure that these movements would be more reliable for the casual consumer. The movements utilize several anti-magnetic components in the construction of the movement. 

This is in addition to relying on a silicon or Nivachron hairspring to transfer power from the barrel and to the escapement. Silicon and Nivachron hairsprings have traditionally been reserved for more mainstream luxury brands such as Omega, but thanks to ETA, the technology has finally been adopted by the entry-level. 

History of the Powermatic 80

With how technically impressive the Powermatic 80 movement is, even by today’s standards, it is hard to believe that it has been around for a decade. In late-2012, ETA first introduced the movement that would later go on to shape the entry-level market for the SWATCH Group. Being introduced in the Tissot Ballade, which features a relatively safe dress watch aesthetic, the capabilities of the movement were often the highlight of the timepieces themselves.

Now that Tissot has begun to push out of their comfort zone in terms of design, the Powermatic 80 has quickly become what ETA had hoped for when they designed it over 10 years ago; the workhorse movement standard.

Now that we know a little bit more about the Powermatic 80 movement let’s take a look at some of the great timepieces that bear this amazing mechanical marvel. Although other brands from the SWATCH Group have utilized the movement as well, we are going to focus our attention on Tissot, the Swiss watch brand we’re all rooting for!

The Best Tissot Powermatic 80 Watches

1. Tissot PRX (ref. T137.407.11.041.00)

Tissot PRX (ref. T137.407.11.041.00)

When kicking off any list, it always helps to start with a bang! The Tissot PRX is that bang. Originally based on a quartz model from 1978, the Tissot PRX was re-released in 2020, sporting a true to the original quartz movement. 

It was immediately apparent that Tissot had struck a nerve with this release. Integrated steel sports watches were having a moment (still are, to be honest), and Tissot gave everyone, regardless of their budget or ability to get Authorized Dealer allocation, an opportunity to see what all the fuss was about. A year after the quartz model release, Tissot threw the watch community a bone and released the PRX with an automatic movement.

The Tissot PRX, ref. T137.407.11.041.00, sports the same integrated bracelet design that made the 2020 release a hit. The 40mm tonneau style case allows this watch to look good on a multitude of wrist sizes. The style shares many similarities with more famous integrated sports watches, but given the 1978 history, these watches are given a pass on taking inspiration.

The blue textured dial has a beautiful appearance and punches significantly above its weight. The Tissot PRX is one of the watches that will define the decade. Although Tissot could have easily given this watch a significant price hike, the $675 is out of line. Thankfully for us watch enthusiasts, it’s in our favor.

2. Tissot Gentleman (ref. T127.407.11.051.00)

 Tissot Gentleman (ref. T127.407.11.051.00)

There is no doubt that the Rolex DateJust is one of the most popular watches of all time. The simple formula of robust construction mixed with a style that is casual enough for jeans but can also be dressed up when needed is one that many watch companies try to emulate.

Some have had better success than others, but few have reached the mainstream success of Tissot with their Gentleman line. The Tissot Gentleman, ref. T127.407.11.051.00, is a simple 40mm stainless steel watch with a date function.

Although many color options are available, black is the most versatile for everyday wearability. This watch closely resembles the look of a Rolex DateJust with a smooth bezel and Oyster bracelet, but it also does something that Rolex can not do. 

The Tissot Gentleman comes in at a price of $795 and is regularly available for purchase. When considering the everyday versatility, there might not be a reason to purchase another watch (but let’s not kid ourselves).

3. Tissot Le Locle (ref. T006.407.36.033.00)

Tissot Le Locle (ref. T006.407.36.033.00)

When dealing with a watch brand that dates back to 1853, there is sure to be some traditional influence that creeps through in terms of watch design. The Le Locle line from Tissot is their line of dress watches that take inspiration from traditional watchmakers while combining the aesthetic with the modern tech and affordability we’ve come to expect from Tissot.

The Tissot Le Locle, ref. T006.407.36.033.00, is a 39.3mm stainless steel watch with gold PVD coating. The silver guilloche dial features complimenting gold Roman numerals. In addition to this classic detail, the dial also features Wessleton diamonds along the perimeter.

Details like this give this $695 dress watch a touch of luxury you normally wouldn’t see on a timepiece anywhere near this price range. If you’re looking for an impressive dress watch but don’t want to blow your entire watch collecting budget on it, this Tissot is a great option to consider.

4. Tissot Seastar 1000 (ref. T120.407.17.051.00)

Tissot Seastar 1000 (ref. T120.407.17.051.00)

One of the benefits of being a brand as big as Tissot is that you have the ability to focus on many different styles of watches at the same time. In addition to the dressier side of Tissot, there is also a side of them that is all business, producing very capable dive watches. The first of those we will look at on this list is the Tissot Seastar 1000.

The Tissot Seastar 1000, ref. T120.407.17.051.00, is a 43mm stainless steel dive watch that is capable of reaching depths of 300M or 1000ft. The watch features a unidirectional ceramic bezel, screw-down crown, and crown guards for increased durability for any professional or casual user.

The black dial and bezel combination in this reference is versatile but available in other color combos if you’re looking for something a little more adventurous. Although some models will come with a stainless steel bracelet, this model is paired with a durable black textile strap. 

Some capable divers can easily sell for thousands or even tens of thousands of dollars, yet this Tissot Seastar 1000 is priced at a modest $725. With a price like that, you might actually afford to be able to take this watch on a proper dive!

5. Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional (ref. T120.607.11.041.01)

Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional (ref. T120.607.11.041.01)

Just when you think 1000ft is overkill for a dive watch, Tissot has to up the ante with a dive watch capable of doubling that feat. The Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional, ref. T120.607.11.041.01, features a 46mm case with a case thickness of 16.3mm and a weight of 206 grams. This watch is an absolute beast and best suited for those with a larger wrist.

The heft is justified when considering the ISO 6425 certification and depth rating of 600M or 2000ft. Despite the overly “tooltastic” design and dimensions, the watch still has a touch of elegance with the graded blue-black dial and wave motif (distinctly different from that on the Omega Seamaster). 

The black ceramic unidirectional bezel seems to fade directly into the gradient change on the dial, which really helps give the design a purposeful aesthetic. The bold hands and indices ensure this watch remains legible in low-light conditions.

The Seastar 2000 is a function-first timepiece that can be found for a price that is less than what many others charge for a factory service. At $1075, the Tissot Seastar is a logical choice for any professional diver and perhaps a great illogical choice for anyone that just likes over-engineered timepieces.

6. Tissot Carson Premium (ref. T122.407.11.033.00)

Tissot Carson Premium (ref. T122.407.11.033.00)

Taking a step back into the world of classical watchmaking, this next timepiece from Tissot presents a familiar formula in a different format. The silver or white dial with black Roman numeral dress watch is not a rare design by any means. Cartier has built their entire product line with this as a central theme to their identity.

Where many of these designs come in rectangular or square cases, there are very few that stick to the standard round case shape. Tissot has done exactly that with this timepiece. The Tissot Carson Premium, ref. T122.407.11.033.00, features a 40mm stainless steel case paired with a 5-link stainless steel bracelet. While having a design that veers heavily into the dress watch category, the round case shape and bracelet give this watch a casual side as well.

The 10.3mm case thickness will be slim enough to slip under almost any cuff, but given its versatility, it may not need to. Coming in at a price of $675, the Tissot Carson is a great option for anyone looking for a more formal design that can play double duty as an everyday wear. 

7. Tissot PRS 516 (ref. T131.430.11.042.00)

Tissot PRS 516 (ref. T131.430.11.042.00)

Now that Tissot is firmly on many enthusiasts’ radars when it comes to value-packed watches, there aren’t many that fall into the category of underrated or undiscovered. This next timepiece is one that genuinely surprises me. It has a history dating back to 1965, a sporty look with a timing bezel, and a robust 100 Meters of water resistance.

Given the value proposition that Tissot is known to bring, the fact that this watch is not talked about more is a shock to me. The Tissot PRS 516, ref. T131.430.11.042.00, features a 42mm stainless steel case with an interchangeable quick-release bracelet.

Several versions of this watch are available, but this particular reference sports a vivid blue dial accented with full Arabic numerals and a pop of red with the signature T-shaped seconds hand. This watch is inspired by classic sports cars, which is evident by the steering wheel design on the sapphire case back of the watch.

As an additional bonus, the watch features a day and date feature, which you don’t see on many Tissot watches. Coming in at a price of $725, I would expect this watch to garner as much, if not more, mainstream attention as some of the other watches on this list.

8. Tissot Chemin des Tourelles (ref. T099.407.16.048.00)

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles (ref. T099.407.16.048.00)

While I have praised many of the traditional examples of Tissot’s dress watch design on this list, there is something about a unique take on the style that I truly appreciate. Think FP Journe as opposed to Breguet. You would be incredibly lucky to own either of these watches, but one does have a more playful side, while the other seems more serious. 

The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles, ref. T099.407.16.048.00, is a 42mm stainless steel dress watch. I know what you’re thinking; 42 mm is way too big for a dress watch! In general, I agree, but this timepiece gets a pass from me. The blue dial on this watch is, simply put, one of the best-looking dress watch dials under $1000.

It absolutely steals the show for this watch, and if your watch is ever going to stand out for its size, you want it to be with a dial like this. The Roman numerals at 3-6-9 give this watch a more casual feel that allows the watch to be worn on more than just formal occasions. Coming in at a price of $775, this might be the closest you can get to a Chronomet Bleu for under $1000.

9. Tissot Tradition Open Heart (ref. T063.907.16.058.00)

Tissot Tradition Open Heart (ref. T063.907.16.058.00)

The magic of what powers the mechanical marvels on our wrists is something that can be enjoyed by all collectors, both new and old. Many watches will offer a see-through caseback allowing the wearer to witness their movements in action. What if you’re the type of person that gets as much enjoyment out of this view as you do the actual dial of the watch? Thankfully Tissot has got you covered.

The Tissot Tradition Open Heart, ref. T063.907.16.058.00, is a 40mm stainless steel watch that features a simple dial and sharp dauphine hands. To break up the simplicity of this dial, Tissot utilizes what is known as an “open heart” dial. There is a cut-out in the front of the dial that allows you to see the escapement of the watch in action while simultaneously being able to wear your watch and tell the time.

This type of dial represents a great middle ground between a skeletonized dial and a traditional layout. The watch is paired with an alligator-style leather strap and features a very slim 9.3mm case thickness. Coming in at $725, this is the quintessential dress watch from Tissot that has a fun party trick built right into the dial.

10. Tissot Heritage Visodate (ref. T118.430.16.271.00)

Tissot Heritage Visodate (ref. T118.430.16.271.00)

Before the success of the PRX and the Gentleman, there was always one watch that achieved mainstream success for Tissot. In many ways, this watch has fallen off collectors’ radar, but it is worth every bit of attention it receives.

The Tissot Heritage Visodate, ref. T118.430.16.271.00, is a 42mm stainless steel watch that recreates the original design from the Visodate of the 1950s. The vintage Tissot logo is present on the dial and helps to give credibility to the vintage design.

The 42mm case dimension roots this watch comfortably as a modern timepiece matching the internal improvements over the original. The Visodate features twisted lugs, which are a nice call back to the time period and complement the aesthetic nicely. 

If you are looking for a watch that has a modern specification and size yet looks like it was produced 60 years ago, you can’t do any better than the Tissot Visodate at $675. 

11. Tissot Ballade (ref. T108.408.22.278.00)

Tissot Ballade (ref. T108.408.22.278.00)

If the Tissot Gentleman is the best affordable alternative to the modern Datejust, this next model from Tissot is the one that gives it a run for its money. The Tissot Ballade, ref. T108.408.22.278.00, features a 41mm stainless steel case with gold PVD fluted bezel and center links on the bracelet.

There is no mistaking the resemblance between this watch and the Rolex it found its inspiration from. The silver opaline dial with guilloche pattern and contrasting gold indices flow together effortlessly and help to give this watch a distinct personality of its own. 

If you’re looking for a watch with as much visual presence as a modern 2-tone Rolex Datejust, you’d be hard-pressed to find anything that does it better than this reference. When you factor in that this watch comes in at a price of $1075, roughly 10% of its Rolex alternative, the value of this watch becomes crystal clear.

12. Tissot Luxury (ref. T086.407.22.097.00)

Tissot Luxury (ref. T086.407.22.097.00)

Versatile watches that can be casual and dressy are a segment of the market that Tissot excels at. When looking at many of the watches on this list, two inspirations become evident for their design. First is the inspiration from other well-established luxury watch brands, and the other is peering back into their historical archives.

This next versatile watch breaks the mold in terms of design and inspiration. The Tissot Luxury, ref. T086.407.22.097.00, is a 41mm stainless steel watch with a gold PVD smooth bezel. The unique construction of the case sees a gold PVD case back and crown united by a stainless steel mid-case that appears to have a weave pattern.

The design is very distinct and helps this watch stand out from the many other watches in the lineup that serve the same purpose. The green stepped dial pops, especially when paired with the matching gold indices to the case.

There is a small strip of PVD gold through the Oyster style bracelet that helps to unify the design of the case and bracelet. This watch is quirky, but at $925, it is a watch that deserves your consideration if you are in the market for a sub $1000 versatile watch.

13. Tissot Gentleman 18K Gold Bezel (ref. T927.407.46.051.00)

Tissot Gentleman 18K Gold Bezel (ref. T927.407.46.051.00)

The Tissot Gentleman is a watch that has already been mentioned on this list but deserves another mention, given the popularity and versatility of the product line. The Tissot Gentleman 18K Gold Bezel, ref. T927.407.46.051.00, features the same 40mm stainless steel case that made the original such a success.

Tissot did something with this model that they very rarely do; they gave this watch an 18k rose gold bezel. Being on the value end of the spectrum, almost anytime you see gold on a Tissot watch, it will come in the form of a gold PVD coating. 

These coatings are excellent alternatives to give the aesthetic of gold at a lower price, but there is something about the feel of real gold. This watch is given matching rose gold indices on a sunray black dial for contrast.

As expected, this version of the Gentleman receives a price bump over the original, now coming in at $1575. Although that is a fairly sizable increase, there are almost no alternatives for a true 2-tone watch in this price range.

14. Tissot PRX 35mm 18K Gold Bezel (ref. T931.207.41.336.00)

Tissot PRX 35mm 18K Gold Bezel (ref. T931.207.41.336.00)

Just when you think Tissot stepped out of their comfort zone with the Gentleman with an 18K gold bezel, this next watch cranks it up to 11. The Tissot PRX 35mm 18K Gold Bezel, ref. T931.207.41.336.00, is a PRX watch with a smaller 35mm stainless steel case with an 18k gold bezel and an integrated steel bracelet.

What really takes this reference to the next level is their use of top Wesselton diamonds for the indices on the gray sunburst dial. The rose gold bezel is complemented by the matching handset and applied logo. This watch is marketed as a lady’s watch, but it’s 2025, so you can wear whatever watch you like.

This watch is anything but subtle, and that’s not something Tissot is necessarily known for. At $1925, this is a fun watch that I could see many couples sharing. I think I might have a gift idea for my next anniversary (if only I could remember when it was!).

15. Tissot Chemin des Tourelles 34mm (ref. T139.207.16.011.00)

Tissot Chemin des Tourelles 34mm (ref. T139.207.16.011.00)

Do you remember the days when a 34mm watch was considered the average size for a wristwatch? Yeah, me neither, but that doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy the watches from the era. The 1950s and 1960s produced millions of classically designed 34mm dress watches that happen to look great on my slender wrist.

While there is no doubt a lot of charm in wearing a watch twice my age, durability has always been a concern. If you find yourself in a similar predicament, Tissot has us covered, and they seemed to do it unintentionally.

The Tissot Chemin des Tourelles 34mm, ref. T139.207.16.011.00, is a 34mm stainless steel watch with a date function. Much like the 35mm PRX, Tissot has decided to position this watch as a woman’s watch. Sure, the smaller dimension will look great on most women’s wrists, but I think it will also look great on many men’s wrists as well.

The white dial, sharp leaf hands, and the case size look like they were plucked right out of the 1950s. However, the modern Powermatic 80 movement, sapphire crystal, and 50 Meters of water resistance ensure that you won’t need to baby this watch. 

Coming in at a price of $725, you can afford to pick up a couple of distressed leather straps to help play to the watch’s vintage aesthetic. I don’t think that Tissot did this on purpose, but if you are looking for a true vintage-inspired watch with modern specifications, this is the best option under $1000.

Conclusion

There you have it, 15 of the best Tissot Powermatic 80 watches. I am amazed by the amount of variety and value that Tissot can bring to the entry-level luxury market. By having a class-leading powerhouse movement inside, Tissot allows their design to do all the talking.

This is something that I would have never imagined when I first started collecting watches, but Tissot is thriving! Whether you’re looking for the latest hype watch, a capable dive watch, or a classically designed dress watch, Tissot has you covered.

Thanks to their Powermatic 80 beating away flawlessly under the case back, if you’re in the market for a new entry-level luxury watch, you can allow your lifestyle to make a choice for you without worrying if the internals can keep up.

Happy Watch Hunting!

Are you in the market for a new open back watch? I relate with you. I love watches that allow me to glimpse the intricate engineering of their mechanisms. 

You don’t have to break the bank to find a quality watch with an exhibition case back. But honestly, you may have to spend on the high side to find timepieces with movement construction and finish worth the display case.

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In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the 15 best open-back watches across budget ranges, so you can find the perfect watch to suit your style. From affordable quartz watches to high-end luxury timepieces, this comprehensive guide has something for everyone. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the world of open-back watches and discover what makes them so special.

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Grand Seiko

SBGP017 Limited Edition

  • Stainless Steel
  • Quartz
  • 40mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Tudor

79210CNU Black Bay Ceramic

  • Ceramic
  • Automatic
  • 41mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Glashütte Original

SeaQ Red Gold 39mm 1-39-11-17-91-33

  • 18k Red Gold
  • Automatic
  • 39.5mm

About Open Back Watches

Open-back watches show the watchmakers pride in the engineering of their watch. They also offer you a chance to admire or show off the movement to another watch buff. These watches reveal the tiny gears, rotors, and springs working harmoniously to keep time running.

It’s like having a miniature Rube Goldberg machine on your wrist! But open-back watches are more than just a fascinating display of engineering. They are well-thought-out designs and can be pricey if you want to experience a movement worth showing off. 

History Of Open Back Watches

Display case backs have existed for centuries, but it’s uncertain when they were first made. However, Bovet, founded in 1822, claims to be the first brand to design an exhibition case watch. Time went on (pun intended), and watchmakers began to get more creative with their designs.

In the 19th century, watchmakers, in a bid to make the case backs more transparent, started to use materials like crystal. As expected, the watches stayed expensive, and only a few could afford them.

A. Lange & Söhne did release watches with enamored outer casings and transparent inner casings displaying the movement. Only in the 20th century did these watches become popular and more accessible, particularly amongst watch geeks, collectors, and enthusiasts. 

In the 1960s and 1970s, Swiss watchmakers began producing high-end luxury watches with open backs, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony.

These watches were often produced in limited quantities and featured complex movements. Today, open back watches are everywhere and available in all sizes, shapes, and prices.

The Top 15 Open Back Watches

1. Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph

Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph

If you are looking for a stylish and affordable display case watch, consider the vintage-inspired Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph. This proudly Chinese-made watch is touted as the most attainable mechanical watch.

The 38mm stainless steel case has a polished finish and is 12mm thick, which gives the watch a retro look. It’s a simple, clean dial with a blurry white background, black hour markers, and hands. Three sub-dials show the chronograph seconds, minutes, and hours.

One of the unique features of this watch is the movement. It uses a manual ST19 caliber, which is fairly accurate and reliable, with a power reserve of around 40 hours.

In terms of functionality, the Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph is a basic chronograph with no additional features such as a date display or a tachymeter. In addition, there’s hearsay that its leather strap may be of lower quality. However, it packs plenty of value for its price.

Starts from approximately: $300.83

2. Seiko 5 SRPD71

Seiko 5 SRPD71

The Seiko 5 SRPD71 (also known as the SRPD71K1) is a stunning and unique timepiece. It combines a traditional style and elegance with contemporary functions. 

The watch is enclosed in a stainless steel case made of scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal that is 13.4mm thick and has a diameter of 42.5mm. It has a sturdy bracelet that makes the watch feel substantial on the wrist. 

Also, it sports a black dial with luminous hands and markers that make it simple to read in dim light. Additionally, the placement of the day/date function adds a practical touch to the overall design.

Other striking features of the Seiko 5 SRPD71 are the automatic and manual winding 4R36 caliber that provides reliable timekeeping and a 41-hour power reserve. The watch also has a 10 bar water resistance, making it suitable for swimming and other related activities.

Overall, the Seiko 5 SRPD71 is an excellent choice for sport watch lovers who also want some style and durability to go with it.

Starts from approximately: $350

3. Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (H32515555)

Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (H32515555)

Now here is one delightful combination of elegance and whimsy! I like to think of it as the James Bond of watches – cool, calm, and daring. Let’s start with the design. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (H32515555) has a classic look for formal occasions.

Its captivating white dial has dauphine hands and a mix of Arabic numerals and dagger indexes. It even has a big date at the 3 o’clock position, not to mention guilloche-like patterns in the middle of the dial. 

The Jazzmaster is pristine and refined with a matching 40mm stainless case.  And the Viewmatic naming is probably in reference to its exhibition-style case back that allows you to view the mechanical movement.

This Hamilton piece is powered by an H10 automatic caliber and features an 80-hour power reserve, which is unheard of at its price range.

It also has 25 jewels, but you’re only afforded a sight of its oscillating weight and parts of its wheels through its open case. Pair the Jazzmatic with its calf leather bracelet strap, and you have an elegant dress watch on a budget.

Starts from approximately: $910

4. Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase (ref. FC-712MS4H6)

Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase (ref. FC-712MS4H6)

The Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase (ref. FC-712MS4H6), or as I like to call it, the “fancy watch that tells you when to howl at the moon,” is a work of art. It’s got a sleek silver and black design that’s sure to turn heads. 

The FC-712MS4H6 boasts other satisfactory attributes, like the calf leather black strap with croc-print and a folding buckle with push buttons. The polished stainless steel case has a 42mm diameter, a thickness of 11.6mm, and a 5 bar water resistance.

This case houses a matching silver dial and automatic central rotor mechanics that can be seen through the open case back and an FC-712 caliber. The moon phase and day-indicator subdials maintain the simple look of the dial.

In all, the Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase is a watch that’s both stylish and practical. It’s perfect for the fashion-conscious werewolf who needs to keep track of lunar cycles or anyone who wants to look darn good while telling time.

Pricing: $3,172

5. NOMOS Tangente 38 (ref. 164)

NOMOS Tangente 38 (ref. 164)

The Tangente 38 is a minimalist’s dream come true, with clean lines, simple indices, and a stunningly understated dial. It’s the kind of watch that makes you feel like a savvy sophisticate just by wearing it, even if you’re just wearing sweatpants and a t-shirt.

But don’t be fooled by its simplicity – this Nomos watch is a veritable treasure trove of clever engineering. The in-house manual-winding caliber Alpha is a marvel of precision and efficiency, keeping the time with the kind of accuracy that would make an atomic clock blush.

And the sapphire crystal open back gives you a peek into the inner workings of this mechanical masterpiece and its aesthetic blend of purple, blue, gold, and silver colors. Of course, the Tangente 38 isn’t just a pretty face (with an even more beautiful back).

It’s also built to last, with a 43 hours power reserve and a round (37.50mm diameter) sturdy stainless steel case that can take a beating. And with a 30 meters water resistance, the watch is splash-proof.

Let’s not forget the little details that make the Tangente 38 so special. The slim blue steel hands, elegant markers, subtly curved lugs, and the Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather are a testament to the beauty of simplicity and the power of a great design.

Pricing: $1,912

6. Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.673.4.78.3)

Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.673.4.78.3)

The Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.673.4.78.3) is a perfect accessory for anyone who wants to feel like a high-roller. It’s stylish, functional, and toolsy. Now, let’s talk specs. The Longines Master Collection ref. L2.673.4.78.3 has a stainless steel case with a diameter of 42mm.

It’s a “barleycorn” silver-toned dial with a guilloche pattern and many markings in Arabic numerals. And its blue feuille hands give it a cool, relaxing look that calms its cluttered dial. It has standard 12-hour, 24-hour, small seconds, day-date-month indexes, and a moon phase indicator on the dial. 

This Longines Master is a complete date and timekeeping watch. It’s got a sapphire crystal open case back so that you can admire the intricate workings of its Longines caliber L678.2. Admittedly, half of the display is only the oscillating weight, so a watch critic might have some disapproving words. 

Another standout is its 64 hours of power reserve. So you can go more than two and a half days without winding it. If you love the idea of a full calendar and exhibition case watch, this Longines Master is a no-brainer.

Starts from approximately $2,300

7. Grand Seiko SBGP017

Grand Seiko SBGP017

This stunning timepiece was designed as a special anniversary edition of the 44GS. Its light blue dial and cloud-texture pattern were influenced by the sea of clouds of GS’s Shinshu studio. Now to the watch itself.

The SBGP017 is a part of Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection, so you know it’s made to withstand wear and tear. The case is made of high-strength titanium, which is both lightweight and durable. It also has a see-through sapphire crystal case back to glance at its quartz movement.

And if you thought that was impressive, wait until you hear about the diamond-cut hour markers and the date window at 3 o’clock. Further, the SBGP017 is powered by Grand Seiko’s 9F85 quartz movement, accurate to within +/- 5 seconds per year. So, if you value precision and reliability more than super-complications, this watch is for you. 

The open back shows the movement in all its glory, with a gold finish, gems, and battery on display. Ultimately, the SBG017 is a value-packed open back watch with a dial design, finishing, and durability ahead of its price range. Perfect choice if you don’t mind quartz. 

Starts from approximately: $3,800

8. Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

The watch in black – the Tudor Black Bay is a classy watch any collector or enthusiast will jump at. It’s a premium dive watch with a micro-blasted black ceramic case, bezel, and hybrid leather-rubber strap. Only the white Tudor markers and hands give it a pop of color.

It’s reminiscent of a customized all-black BMW, or any all-black car for that matter. Surprisingly, the Black Bay’s dial is extremely easy to read in the dark or underwater. The case measures 41mm in diameter, making it a great size for most wrist sizes. 

Its exhibition case back offers excellent visibility of the watch’s inner workings, adding to its allure. The watch also features a screw-down crown and is water resistant up to 200m. But let’s get to the really important stuff – the movement.

Its METAS-certified MT5602 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve and anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gausses. Of course, it’s also finished all-black with only a few contrasting gems and steel finishing. Overall, the Tudor Black Bay is a high-tech watch with fancy finishes and an exhibition case. 

Starts from approximately: $5,025

9. Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Blue (ref. 95.9002.9004/78.R590)

Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Blue (ref. 95.9002.9004/78.R590)

The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Blue (ref. 95.9002.9004/78.R590) is a magnificent skeleton watch that allows you to admire the intricate details of its movement, front, back, and center. Some major sights are the blue oscillating weight, the Zenith star logo on the rotor, and the counters.

Plus, a mindblowing 36,000 frequency on its El Primero movement. Additionally, the watch has a power reserve of 50 hours. And if you’re worried about getting wet, fear not – it’s water-resistant up to 100 meters.

Despite its seemingly complicated look and prominent case, it’s a classy dress watch. Its 44mm titanium case synchronizes with the rubber strap and tones of blue from the El Primero movement. The Defy El Primero will pass for a luxury sports watch, statement piece, and night dress watch. 

Starts from approximately: $8,814

10. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015 (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015 (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015 is a diver’s watch with stellar craftsmanship. The open back design is a great touch, allowing you a glimpse of its 227 components in action. Its sapphire crystal case back displays the oscillating weight, escapement, and balance wheel, all in motion.

The Fifty Fathoms 5015 in-house caliber 1315 has an impressive 120-hour power reserve. It is encased in a sizeable 45mm stainless steel case that’s comfortable to wear with its sail-canvas strap. 

It’s typically built for underwater use with a unidirectional rotating bezel, black dial, luminescent hands, and markers for legibility in low-light conditions and 300 meters of water resistance. If you love iconic watches that are bold to put their movements on display, the Fithy Fathoms is the true definition. 

Starts from approximately: $15,555

11. Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 (ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

This watch is the perfect trifecta of watchmaking – combining style, function, and history. The Omega Speedmaster is easily one of the most beautiful display case watches ever. It houses the Caliber 321 – early Speedmaster models worn by NASA astronauts during the Apollo missions – that would leave you staring at in awe.

It’s a hand-wound movement with 18k rose gold finished components, a Breguet balance spring, and 55 hours of power reserve. Again, this is the moon caliber on display. The face of the watch is one of simplicity and class. 

It features a sleek black dial with contrasting white minute markings on the sub-dials and bezel tachymeter. Its 39.7mm 316L corrosion-resistant stainless steel case bracelets are sturdy and complete each other for a masculine instrument watch look.

Starts from approximately: $23,900

12. Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-17-91-33)

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-17-91-33)

At the heart of the red gold SeaQ is Glashütte Original’s Caliber 39-11 automatic movement, which boasts an impressive power reserve of up to 40 hours. This movement is built to last, with its signature three-quarter plate and Glashütte stripes adding a touch of elegance to the watch’s overall aesthetic.

The SeaQ’s blue dial with its sunburst finish, lume on the hands, and indices are top-notch features that provide excellent legibility in any lighting condition. It’s no surprise for a dive watch with its water resistance rating of 300 meters.

This is thanks to a screw-down crown, a screw-down case back, and a unidirectional rotating bezel. The SeaQ has a stainless steel case with a sizable 43.2mm diameter, giving it a sporty and masculine feel that will turn heads.

One minor critique of the SeaQ is its lack of a date function, which some users may find inconvenient. However, this omission aligns with the watch’s classic design and isn’t exactly a dealbreaker for most.

Starts from approximately: $26,524

13. Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237

Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237

Next on my list of the best open back watches if you love ornamented watches is the Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237. Before you notice the display case, its artful case and dial should catch your (or anyone’s) attention. It’s a fluted 36mm 18k yellow gold case with pump pushers that gives a discreet but bold look. 

When you look closely, you’ll appreciate Breguet even more. The roman numeral hour markers and Breguet hands are like eye candy. But the show’s real star is the silver guilloché pattern on the dial.

It gives substance to the dial’s bare center and outer rings while allowing the hour markers and counters to shine. As if that’s not enough, your eyes stay full when you turn the Breguet Classique 3237 on its back. Its in-house caliber 533.3 takes up the space with fine engineering for you to gaze at.

It has a 48-hour power reserve. And with a 36.0mm case diameter and 10mm thickness, it’s big enough to make a statement without being so big that it looks like you’re wearing a clock on your wrist.

Starts from approximately: $24,400

14. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 6119G-001)

Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 6119G-001)

In a world of iconic dress watches, the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection is a line of A-listers. It is a true classic that embodies the timeless elegance and understated style that Patek Philippe is known for. 

The 6119G-001 displays the manually-wound in-house Caliber 30-255 PS in a full-circumference open case back. It gives you a full view of the back, with the movement’s jewels, rotor, and golden wheels with Patek Phillipe Seal in sight. 

The 30-225 has 165 parts in total and a power reserve of 65 hours. You’ll need as many hours to study the complication and geek out with your watch pals.

Moving on, the 6119G has a refreshing dial of understated luxury. It’s a charcoal gray background in a visible vertical satin finish with applied white gold stick markers and dauphine hands. 

Further, it features a 39mm 18k white gold case. It also has a stunning and meticulous hobnail guilloche bezel design. 

More impressively, the case is only 8.08mm thick, which makes it super-dressy and comfortable on any outfit. Especially when you pair it with the shiny black alligator strap with square scales.  Overall, the 6110G Calatrava is crafted to perfection.

Starts from approximately: $27,818

15. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Platinum (ref. 425.025)

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Rattrapante Platinum (ref. 425.025)

The 1815 Rattrapante Platinum is a stunning 200-piece limited edition display case watch. First off, it’s powered by a manually-wound in-house chronograph movement – Caliber L101.2. So there’s a handful to exhibit in its sapphire glass case back.

More specifically, the movement has 631 individual components, running a “rattrapante” (or split-seconds) complication that times two events simultaneously. As a result, the movement has a super-complicated switching process, with two column wheels and a rattrapante clamp, which you can observe through the glass.

It delivers a power reserve of up to 58 hours before it needs to be rewound. Unsurprisingly, A. Lange & Söhne delivers an artistic dial to carry this beautiful movement. In addition, it has an argenté-finish that complements its 41mm 950 platinum case.

The blue hands, black Arabic numerals, and minute track look clean and legible on the silver dial. Impressively, the Rattrapante’s stellar movement and dial are packed into a 12.6mm thick case. Its lightweight and portability make it a go-to statement piece or casual watch for the elite.

Starts from approximately: $140,000

Conclusion

Display case watches are not built equal, nor are people’s tastes in watches. The best open-back watches, admittedly, only get better with the price. So, if you’re focused on the finishing and complication of the movement on display, we suggest you pick from the last 10 watches on the list. 

Ultimately, you’ll find a value-packed option whether you’re on a tight or affluent budget. If it’s on this list, it’s worth showing off. 

15 Best rolex explorer alternatives

Few watches have more mystique surrounding them than the Rolex Explorer. A predecessor to the Explorer, a modified Oyster Perpetual with luminescent Arabic numerals, was actually on Sir Edmund Hillary’s when he became the first person to summit Mt. Everest. How’s that for a legend? 

Since its official launch in 1953, the Explorer has been worn by all types of watch lovers. It’s been a spelunking tool for adventurers, and it was the favorite watch of James Bond Author Ian Fleming. Some even suggest, based on a few sentences in one of Fleming’s books, that the Explorer was the original watch worn by the literary version of  Bond himself.

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Despite the Explorer’s adventurous roots, it’s rightly considered one of the most versatile models in the Rolex catalog. While it definitely has those steel sports chops that so many love about Rolex, it can blend in just as well as a dress watch under your cuff. 

The Explorer is a classically styled, robust, and versatile watch. That’s exactly why it’s so sought after. That’s also why it can be so difficult to get one. With waiting lists that can last for years at Rolex dealers, and the secondary market prices rising fast, you may want to consider a nice alternative to the Explorer.

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

TUDOR

Ranger M79950-0001

  • Steel case, satin finish; Smooth satin-brushed steel
  • Automatic
  • 39mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Omega

Railmaster Co-Axial Master Chronometer 40mm on Bracelet

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 40mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Omega

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Master Chronometer 38mm

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 38mm

About the Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer has a rich and fascinating history that spans back to the early days of mountaineering expeditions. In the 1950s, Rolex collaborated with several mountaineers to create a timepiece that could withstand the harsh conditions of high-altitude climbing. The result was a watch that quickly became a favorite of adventurers and explorers around the world.

As mentioned above, the first Rolex Explorer was released in 1953, and it was an instant success among mountain climbers and explorers. It featured a sturdy Oyster case, a self-winding movement, and luminous hands and hour markers for easy readability in low-light conditions. The watch was also water-resistant, making it suitable for wet and snowy environments.

Rolex Explorer Fun Facts

One of the reasons that the Rolex Explorer has such a big following is its illustrious list of owners. Among them, aside from Sir Edmund Hillary, is Ian Fleming, author of the James Bond novel series. What’s more, many claim that the first Rolex that Fleming attributed to Bond in a novel was an “Oyster Perpetual with large luminous numerals”. At the time, the only Rolex model that fit that description was the famed Explorer reference 1016, which Fleming himself had on the wrist. 

What to Look For in a Rolex Explorer Alternative

If you’re looking for a watch with a similar style and quality to the Explorer without the hefty price tag, read on. Here are some things to consider when searching for an alternative to the Rolex Explorer.

For starters, consider the movement. The Rolex Explorer uses an in-house automatic movement, which is renowned for its precision and reliability. Look for watches with a similar quality movement from reputable manufacturers like Seiko or ETA.

Secondly, examine the materials used in the watch. The Rolex Explorer uses high-quality stainless steel for its case and bracelet, with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protecting the dial. Look for alternatives with similar materials and craftsmanship, such as titanium or ceramic cases and sapphire crystal glass.

Thirdly, consider the design of the watch. The Rolex Explorer has a simple yet elegant design with a black dial and minimalistic hour markers. Look for watches with a similar design aesthetic and unique features that set them apart from other watches on the market.

Finally, consider the brand reputation and customer service. Look for brands with a history of producing quality watches and offering excellent customer service. Read reviews and ask for recommendations from fellow watch enthusiasts. We think the following list checks all of those boxes and more.

The Best Rolex Explorer Alternatives

1. Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

Tudor has quite the back catalog from which to choose. The Tudor Ranger is one of the most obvious examples of this competitive advantage. Taking obvious design cues from the famed Rolex Explorer reference 1016, the Tudor Ranger is quite the rugged steel piece in its own right. 

With classic lumed 3 6, 9, and 12 Arabic indices, a signed screw-down crown offering 100 meters of water resistance, and a near-perfect 39mm diameter, the Ranger couldn’t possibly be a better Rolex Explorer alternative than it already is. What’s more, available on either a steel oyster style bracelet, a hybrid rubber and leather strap, or a classic nato strap, the watch works with just about any style.

2. Omega Railmaster (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

Omega Railmaster (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

The original 1957 Railmaster was developed for use by rail workers, scientists, and anyone else who worked near strong magnetic or electrical fields. It was designed to withstand up to 1,000 gauss without losing any time.

Today, most luxury watches are designed with this type of magnetic resistance in mind. But that doesn’t make the Railmaster any less special. It has a beautiful classic dial design, harkening back to some of the first Seamasters.

Furthermore, it has a comfortable case size of 40mm, an impressive water resistance of 150 meters, and a classic Omega steel bracelet. It also has beautifully executed Arabic 3, 6, 9, and 12 indices. You couldn’t ask for much more in a classically beautiful steel sports watch from a name that commands respect.

3. IWC Spitfire (ref. IW326801)

IWC Spitfire (ref. IW326801)

IWC has always been known for its amazing pilot watches. Gorgeous references like this Spitfire are exactly why that reputation continues to this day. The easy-to-read dial is the first thing you may notice, but there’s so much more to this watch just beneath the surface. 

IWC’s in-house caliber 32110 movement offers a beautifully finished 21-jewel mechanical work of art that produces an incredible 72 hours of power reserve. The 39mm size, convex anti-reflective sapphire crystal, and convenient date window make this one of the best everyday watches available for the price. It’s hard to go wrong with any watch from IWC; this one is a real looker.

4. Bell & Ross  BR V1-92

Bell & Ross  BR V1-92

Bell & Ross is a greatly underappreciated watch, which also makes them a great deal. This model is a great alternative to the Rolex Explorer, especially for those who want a slightly larger watch. At 41mm, it’s great for almost any sized wrist but works especially great for those who might find the Explorer a bit too diminutive at 36 or 39mm. It also has the added benefit of a rotating timing bezel, which is something you won’t find on the Explorer. 

With Super-LumiNova-coated Arabic numerals, 100 meters of water resistance, and a gorgeous black calfskin strap, you won’t be left out with this beauty on your wrist. It also has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, so don’t be afraid to take this one hiking, swimming, or anywhere else you may roam.

5. Tudor Black Bay 36 (ref. M79500-0007)

Tudor Black Bay 36 (ref. M79500-0007)

Much is made of the iconic Black Bay 58, but the Black Bay 36 is no slouch. As the name would suggest, it has a classic size of 36mm, making it the same size as the original Rolex Explorer 1016. However, the Black Bay 36 also boasts a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a signed screw-down crown offering 150 meters of water resistance, and 38 hours of power reserve. 

With a movement based on the bulletproof ETA 2824-2, this watch is just as good for daily wear as it is for international espionage. Giving it an extra boost is the fact that it shares a strong link with Rolex in both heritage and market cache.

6. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.001)

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. 220.10.38.20.01.001)

The Aqua Terra is perhaps the most versatile watch in Omega’s entire catalog. While it retains the classic Seamaster DNA with dagger indices and 150 meters of water resistance, it gives off a more refined look that blends in at a cocktail party better than a clunky diver. 

It has an AR-coated sapphire crystal, a gorgeous display caseback, and Omega’s patented coaxial escapement, making it a high-tech stunner. The “just right” 38mm case size, coupled with the textured striped dial, make this one of the coolest watches on the market. Add the convenient date function and 55-hour power reserve, and the Seamaster Aqua Terra beats all comers.

7. Longines Conquest Automatic (ref. L3.776.4.58.6)

Longines Conquest Automatic (ref. L3.776.4.58.6)

If you’re looking for the perfect alternative to the 39mm Rolex Explorer, look no further. Longines have created a great option with many of the same characteristics as the Rolex, but with a little bit of its own personality. 

Large Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 and a date window at 3 o’clock give this watch a balanced and legible look. It also has an impressive water resistance of 300 meters, a screw-down crown with ample crown guards, and a hefty power reserve of 64 hours. The diminutive 39mm size makes for a great dress or sports watch on the go.

8. Oris Classic Date (ref. 01 733 7594 4034-07 8 20 61)

Oris Classic Date (ref. 01 733 7594 4034-07 8 20 61)

Oris is one of those watch brands that seems to be underrated by many watch collectors, but that allows for some great deals. The Oris Classic Date is a beautiful dress-style watch that also works great with a casual outfit. This silver dial beauty includes Arabic 3, 9, and 12 indices and a great size of 42mm.

The jubilee-style bracelet is flashy yet classy, and the display caseback allows you to view the gorgeous automatic movement under the sapphire crystal. This watch is pure class. While it might look a little dressier than some other options on this list, it still gives off those Explorer feels.

9. Sinn 556a

Sinn 556a

Sinn makes some great utilitarian tool watches at reasonable prices. The 556a is no exception. It has solid stainless steel construction, lumed 3, 6, 9, and 12 Arabic indices, and a supple leather strap. Few watches carry so many of the characteristics of the Rolex Explorer but with so much of its own personality. 

The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and 200 meters of water resistance make this a really rugged watch with classic styling. This one seems just as comfortable in the water as it does at 10,000 feet.

10. Ball Engineer II Ohio (ref. NM2026C-S5J-BK)

Ball Engineer II Ohio (ref. NM2026C-S5J-BK)

Ball is a brand inextricably linked to the history of railroad and railroad timing. That’s why this model is called the Engineer II. It has great looks, including a mix of dagger indices, Arabic numerals, and a day date function. It also has a water resistance of 100 meters and a diameter of 40mm, making it a great everyday watch. 

Similar to the Omega Railmaster, also on this list, the Engineer II Ohio takes some of the best features of a dive watch. It seamlessly adds them to a classic railroad timing watch to offer the perfect hybrid option.

11. Seiko Alpinist SPB117

Seiko Alpinist SPB117

The Seiko Alpinist is a highly respected model by not just Seiko aficionados but also the watch greater watch-collecting world. With its gorgeous handset and classic design, it’s definitely a great option for exploring any environment. While it’s available in multiple colorways, this black dial model gives vintage vibes with a cool and modern twist. 

While it’s a great-looking watch, this Alpinist model has some serious outdoor street cred. It’s got a screw-down crown with 200 meters of water resistance and a sapphire crystal. It also has a mineral crystal caseback allowing you to see the solid Seiko automatic movement, which boasts an impressive power reserve of 70 hours. The watch has a perfect size of 39.5mm, making it big enough for legibility, but it still offers the compact comfort of a good field watch.

12. Fortis Spacematic (ref. 623.10.18.LP.10)

Fortis Spacematic (ref. 623.10.18.LP.10)

Fortis makes a lot of really great watches. The Spacematic is one of the best. It has a straightforward design and a great engine under the hood. It has a Swiss automatic movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and hits the 40mm sweet spot of diameter. The large 12, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals make the dial attractive and easy to read. 

What’s more, the Spacematic also includes a convenient day date function, which a lot of simple watches like this one don’t usually have. Fortis gives you a lot of bang for the buck with this great Rolex Explorer alternative.

13. Smiths Everest

The original Smiths Everest is a watch closely tied to the Rolex Explorer. It’s said that Edmund Hillary carried both a Rolex and a Smiths watch to the summit of Everest. The fact that he apparently wore neither hasn’t stopped either brand from claiming to be the first watch at the summit. 

This current Everest model is a throwback to those early days of mountaineering. It has a classic size of 36mm and lumed Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9. It also includes a water resistance of 100 meters, automatic movement, and highly convenient drilled lugs. If you want a watch closely tied to the Rolex Explorer but don’t want to explore your wallet too much to buy it, then the Smiths Everest is the watch for you.

14. Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3.6.9

Nivada Grenchen Super Antarctic 3.6.9

Nivada Grenchen, similar to Smiths, is a brand that was popular in the early 20th century and has been recently resurrected under a new ownership group. The Super Antarctic 3.6.9. shares quite a lot design-wise with the classic Rolex Explorer reference 1016. 

From the faux patina to the lumed Arabic numerals, Nivada Grenchen opted for a highly nostalgic aesthetic with this model. It includes an automatic movement with 38 hours of power reserve, a diameter of 38mm, and 100 meters of water resistance. While it may look vintage, the AR-coated sapphire glass reminds you that this is a high-quality modern watch with vintage looks.

15. Lorier Falcon SIII

Lorier Falcon SIII

Lorier makes microbrand watches with the feel of a heritage brand. The Falcon SIII offers the perfect mix of vintage and modern vibes. While it takes design cues from the Rolex Explorer and other classic field watches, it updates that aesthetic with a more contemporary textured dial and all the trappings of a modern steel sports grail piece. 

It has a classic size of 36mm, a Japanese automatic movement, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, Super-LumiNova on the Arabic numerals, 100 meters of water resistance, and three micro-adjustment positions on the clasp. This little watch really packs a punch.

16. NOMOS Club Sport Neomatik Petrol

Don’t be confused by the refined look of this watch. The Club Sport Neomatic Petrol from NOMOS is a bit more versatile than you might expect. Featuring a modest 37mm steel case, I could immediately tell this watch was going to be a good fit for me.

I’m also sold on the beautiful petrol green sunburst dial. The elegant reflections do well to blend in with nature, but the overall beauty of the watch is hard to ignore. It’s powered by an ultra-thin in-house automatic caliber. More specifically, a 3.2mm NOMOS DUW 3001, which also includes a 43-hour power reserve and a swing system for accuracy.

While I love the internal mechanics, my eyes are continuously drawn to the highly legible rhodium-plated hands. You get recessed numerals, which I think was a great minor choice to add some depth to the dial. Between comfort and versatility, this watch is great for blending with the outdoors as well as professional environments.

Conclusion

While the iconic Rolex Explorer can never truly be replicated, it’s possible to find an affordable alternative that shares a bit of the Explorer’s basic identity. Ruggedness is one of the most important aspects of the Rolex Explorer’s DNA, and that’s what every watch on the list above has in spades. Everything else is window dressing, and it’s up to you to decide what other features of the watch are important to you. 

Regardless of which one you choose, you’re sure to get years of enjoyment out of every single one of these watches on our list. Maybe you should even grab more than one. After all, what’s the fun of life if you don’t spend it exploring? 

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