The unique appeal of Pepsi timepieces helps them stand out from the sea of other watches on the market. These watches have come to be associated with style, elegance, and a dash of vintage flare because of their recognizable red and blue bezels, modeled by the unique colors of the Pepsi-Cola logo.
But these timepieces are more complex than first appears. They have a fascinating past closely related to aviation and oceanic exploration. This article serves as a guide to the world of Pepsi watches.
Whether you’re looking to start your collection with something special, want a cool statement piece, or are trying to make a good investment, a Pepsi watch is the way to go. However, if you’re unsure if they are for you, you’re guaranteed to find out by the end of this article.
The history of Pepsi watches, which are distinguished by their recognizable red and blue bezels, dates back to the middle of the 20th century. “Pepsi” describes a color scheme resembling the iconic soft drink’s logo.
The Rolex GMT-Master, released in 1955 as a tool watch for pilots and foreign travelers, was the first timepiece to include a Pepsi bezel. Since then, the Pepsi bezel has come to be associated with all watches sporting a distinctive color scheme, making these timepieces one of the watch industry’s most well-liked fads.
Why Are They So Popular?
For a number of reasons, Pepsi watches are extremely well-liked among watch aficionados. The red and blue bezel design is aesthetic, arresting, and readily identifiable. It also makes a strong fashion statement when worn on the wrist. The color scheme embodies the spirit of travel and inspires a sense of exploration.
The Pepsi bezel has also evolved into a symbol of nostalgia and tradition. Watches with this recognizable bezel frequently have historical importance or ties to famous manufacturers like Rolex and Tudor. The rich history and tradition connected to these watches are what’s most appealing to enthusiasts.
Should You Buy a Pepsi Watch?
Pepsi watches are for unique people who are daring but not reckless. They are often diver’s watches and GMTs, perfect for travelers, athletes, and hobby divers. You might think they are exclusively for collectors, but that couldn’t be further from the truth.
Nowadays, Pepsi watches have become so popular that brands at every price point are participating in the trend. Ultimately, if you seek a statement timepiece, want a definite conversation starter, or want to make an investment, you are guaranteed to find a great match in the following list.
The Best Pepsi Watches
Orient Mako II Pepsi Bezel (ref. FAA02009D9)
The Mako II was originally introduced as an upgrade to the popular Mako line with several notable improvements. The Orient Caliber F6922 grants reliable and accurate timekeeping, all for 40 hours straight. Its stainless steel case measures 41.5mm in diameter, making it just about suitable for smaller-sized wrists too.
The iconic bezel rotates in one direction only, although it takes more effort than an average diving watch bezel. Being a diver’s watch, the Mako II’s water resistance will keep up with your occasional underwater adventures. The Orient Mako II Pepsi Bezel is a great entry point to the world of Pepsi watches.
The vintage appeal doesn’t have to go without contemporary functionality. Timex, a renowned American watch brand with a rich history dating back to 1854, pays homage to vintage timepieces from the ’70s with the Q GMT’s retro-inspired design.
The watch has a 38mm polished and brushed stainless steel casing with the Pepsi bezel rotating in both directions. It’s a fully functional GMT, with the 4th hand being responsible for tracking a secondary timezone. The quartz movement isn’t a huge let-down considering the price point. This watch is really hard to hate for any true enthusiast. Its affordability and versatile design make it a popular choice overall.
Price: $229
Citizen Promaster (ref. NY0086-83L)
Designed for adventure seekers, the Citizen Promaster NY0086-83L is a tough and sporty Pepsi watch. This Promaster model draws inspiration from Citizen’s rich heritage in professional diving watches. It’s equipped with a water resistance of up to 200 meters (660 feet), leaving the door open for deeper-than-average aquatic adventures.
While you’re down in the deep, the unidirectional rotating bezel helps you not to overestimate your remaining oxygen supply. Using Citizen’s renowned Eco-Drive technology, the Promaster harnesses the energy of light to fuel its quartz movement. It’s an excellent choice for hobby divers looking to stay unique during their diving sessions.
Price: $250
Seiko SKX009
Radiating the love of enthusiasts, the Seiko SKX009 is an affordable favorite among Pepsi diver’s watches. Born from the rich heritage of Seiko, the SKX009 doesn’t fail the test of quality and reliability. The watch was originally introduced in the 1990s as part of Seiko’s popular Diver’s Watch series.
It’s now discontinued since 2019, and getting your hands on a used example holds a great challenge due to the increasing demand and limited supply. It features a rugged stainless steel case with a screw-down crown, and it’s powered by the trusty 7S26 automatic movement. It might just be me, but I haven’t seen anyone wearing it without a smile on their face… The Seiko SKX009 became an essential for lovers of Pepsi watches with its timeless style and great value.
Price: $495
Mathey-Tissot GMT Pepsi Bezel
As you’re conquering the world, you need a reliable and classy wrist companion that lives up to the image of the person wearing it. That’s what the Mathey-Tissot GMT is about. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, the 42mm stainless steel case and bracelet offer surprising durability with a small touch of sophistication.
The design is, of course, deeply rooted in the origins of all Pepsi watches; the Mathey-Tissot GMT borrows many elements of its charm from the Rolex GMT Master II. But I guess there aren’t many Swiss-made Pepsi bezel GMTs on the market for this price after all… The watch is an excellent choice for those who are looking for a reliable option for a fair price.
Price: $450
Seiko Prospex “Turtle” SRP779K1
A touch of retro charm. The SRP779K1 pays homage to the iconic Seiko 6309 from the 1970s. Its adventure-suited stainless steel case features a unique hefty design referred to as the “Turtle” with a diameter of 45mm.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s reliable 4R36 automatic movement, which keeps accurate time throughout your diving adventures. The SRP779K1 keeps you stylish and unique up to water depths of 200m. The watch merges the spirit of the original diver’s watch with modern technology, resulting in a refreshing touch to horological heritage.
A diving watch with a ton of features built for exploring the ocean below. The 46mm stainless steel case is attached to your wrist via a sturdy polyurethane strap. The watch features a depth sensor for accurate diving readings and great water resistance of 200 meters.
The watch is equipped with the Citizen Eco-Drive E168 movement, which uses the power of light to fuel itself. The Citizen Promaster Marine Aqualand is a fantastic option for serious divers looking to show off and impress sharks, octopi, and starfish.
A watch that blends elegance and toughness. Similarly to the Mathey-Tissot GMT, the Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT takes inspiration from the Rolex GMT-Master II. It’s powered by a Swiss-made automatic ETA movement in a 39mm stainless steel case.
The 300-meter water resistance coupled with the unidirectional rotating bezel suggests there is more to this watch than what meets the eye. It’s a great GMT that you can drag along to your aquatic adventures. Adventurous travelers might find this watch a perfect wrist companion for their journeys.
Price:$600
Lorier Hyperion Series II
A Pepsi watch with a modern twist that’s been largely influenced by historical designs. Lorier is famous for applying a modern touch to its vintage-inspired watches. Since entering the market in the Spring of 2018, Lorier has met critical acclaim in prestigious outlets for producing handsome, rugged, and affordable timepieces.
These watches are specifically designed to be versatile, romantic, and durable. The Hyperion Series II comes in a small case with a diameter of 39mm, has water resistance up to 200 meters, and it’s powered by the Swiss SW200-1 automatic movement. This watch might easily be an attractive option for watch enthusiasts because of its traditional design features and modern aesthetics.
Price: $800
Christopher Ward C65 Trident GMT “Pepsi”
Vintage-inspired again, but this time it’s a British-made GMT. The 41mm watch has a Swiss Made Sellita SW330-1 automatic movement and a water resistance of 150 meters. The iconic bezel is made out of aluminum this time, with bidirectional rotation.
The LumiNova Grade X1 GL C1 ensures visibility of the dial and the hands, even in low-light conditions. The watch has a very competitive price among mechanical GMTs, making it a great option for someone who’s looking for a travel companion with great craftsmanship.
Price: $1,100
Raymond Weil Tango 300 GMT (ref. 8280-ST3-20001)
A stylish and sporty GMT powered by a Swiss automatic movement. It all started in 1976, in the middle of a watch industry crisis, when Mr. Raymond Weil decided to found his own company. Mr. Weil’s creations were immediately praised by watch enthusiasts – amateurs and connoisseurs alike.
The Tango 300 GMT is a 42mm travelers timepiece with water resistance up to 300 meters. The ETA 2893-2 automatic movement inside is known for its reliability and accuracy. The asking price of the Pepsi model is a bit higher than the standard GMT, but the added style is worth the extra.
The Yema Superman 500 GMT Pepsi Bezel is a modern interpretation of Yema’s iconic Superman dive watch. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 13mm. The watch is powered by the Swiss Made Sellita SW330-1 automatic movement with a standard GMT function. It has a stunning water resistance of 500 meters.
The most unique part of this watch is Yema’s unique bezel-locking mechanism that adds security to the unidirectional rotating bezel. Although there are better value options at its price point, the Yema Superman 500 GMT offers fair value for the money, making it a viable option for frequent travelers.
Price: $1,500
Davosa Ternos Professional TT GMT Pepsi Bezel (ref. 161.571.06)
A Swiss-made watch developed for Aquaman. It has a blue dial, a rotating ceramic bezel, and a stainless steel case. It is perfectly suited for underwater activities, but professional diving is no problem either since it has an outstanding 500-meter water resistance.
It has a Swiss Made ETA 2893-2 automatic movement, and the Super-LumiNova BGW9 luminescent helps tell the time even in deep underwater conditions. Versatile functionality and a dash of elegance are combined in the Davosa Ternos Professional TT GMT.
Price: $1,600
Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition (ref. ZO9408)
The Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition is a limited-edition timepiece that pays homage to the iconic Sea Wolf model from the 1960s. It features a stainless steel case, a coveted ‘Crystal’ sunburst dial, and the iconic bi-color rotating bezel.
The watch has a truly unique design language, with the round dial being accentuated by the case shape. The Zodiac Sea Wolf GMT ‘Crystal’ Topper Edition captures the spirit of adventure and nostalgia, thus being a prized possession for watch collectors.
Price: $1,800
Monta Skyquest Black Gilt
This Swiss-made tool watch kills it with its unique design language. It has a stainless steel case, a ceramic bezel, and a black dial with gilt accents. There is a limited edition model with an opaline silver dial that looks like something from heaven… Its GMT feature makes the watch ideal for world conquerors, although the 150m water resistance won’t let you too far into the ocean. The watch is a great example of Swiss engineering and performance.
For professionals, the Ball Roadmaster Marine GMT is a reliable and high-functioning timepiece. When Standard Time was adopted in 1883, Webster Clay Ball was the first jeweler to use time signals, bringing accurate time to Cleveland. Today, BALL Watch is one of the most respected and established watch brands in the United States.
The Roadmaster Marine GMT is a 40mm travelers’ watch with many quirks and features. It has Ball’s ground-breaking Amortiser shock absorption mechanism for increased longevity, while its dial incorporates micro gas tubes for superior luminosity. The watch remains a favorite for its uniqueness, toughness, and style.
Price: $3,500
TAG Heuer Aquaracer GMT (ref. WAY201F.BA0927)
Look no further for a luxury sports watch designed for hobby swimmers and divers. This 43mm watch is powered by the outstandingly precise TAG Heuer Caliber 7 automatic movement and features a water resistance of 300 meters.
The Pepsi-colored GMT bezel on the Aquaracer rotates in one direction. As its name suggests, the watch is ideal for aquatic sports. Overall this GMT is a great choice for frequent travelers and athletes who want a touch of uniqueness.
This chic and functional Pepsi watch blends contemporary design with historical appeal. It draws inspiration from Tudor’s rich diving heritage. It comes in a 41mm case, is powered by Tudor’s in-house Caliber MT5652 automatic movement, and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters.
This watch offers so tremendous value compared to its price, and it’s widely respected among watch enthusiasts. The Tudor Black Bay GMT is an outstanding example of the brand’s history.
Price: $4,620
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M “Pyeongchang 2018” (ref. 522.32.44.21.03.001)
This timepiece is a limited-edition watch created to commemorate the Pyeongchang 2018 Winter Olympic Games. It features a stainless steel case with a diameter of 43.5mm and a thickness of 16.04mm. With its outstanding water resistance of 600 meters, you can bring it to the Atlantic whale party and show it off.
The watch is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 8900 automatic movement, known for its precision and anti-magnetic properties. It’s a truly high-functioning watch for the price of one of the biggest brands in the history of watchmaking.
Price: $8,600
Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi (ref. 126710BLRO)
The avalanche starter. The original Pepsi watch. This is an iconic and highly coveted watch from Rolex. Powered by the Rolex Caliber 3285 automatic movement, offering exceptional accuracy among mechanical GMTs.
Crafted from Rolex’s signature 904L stainless steel, the case of the GMT-Master II Pepsi measures 40mm in diameter. The watch features the iconic Rolex Oyster bracelet, known for its great comfort. The Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi represents the pinnacle of luxury travel watches. Demand for this watch keeps rising, and getting your hands on one is becoming very difficult.
Price: $10,900
Conclusion
Pepsi watches had a great impact on the watch industry. True watch enthusiasts will always turn their heads when they see the distinctive colorway on someone’s wrist. A Pepsi on your wrist is guaranteed to start a conversation with anyone who has a trained eye for watches. And the best part is that they are available for every budget.
Whether you’re a businessman trying to keep track of multiple timezones or a hobby diver wanting to show unique style to all the fish around you, there is a Pepsi watch for you. But most importantly, if you have a burning desire to make a statement, these watches are geared to your personality.
Watch brands have been releasing smaller-sized wristwatches in the past several years, and I believe this trend is here to stay. The days of mammoth-sized watches from the 2000s are fading, and 34mm seems to be the neutral size for all wrists.
Although 34mm may sound small for a male wrist, during the 1960s and 1970s, wristwatches were typically 34-35mm in size, and that was accepted as a men’s size. Now let’s learn about a variety of watch case sizes and how 34mm can be the sweet spot.
Watch Sizes for Men
Men’s watches are typically sized 38mm and above, but this can vary depending on the type of watch. For instance, dress watches are usually smaller in size (ranging from 34mm to 38mm) as they are intended to be worn for formal events.
These watches are designed to fit discreetly under a dress shirt cuff, so they tend to have a slim profile. The purpose of a dress watch is to complement one’s outfit without drawing too much attention. Examples of such timepieces include the Cartier Tank, which features a simple white dial and two hands, meeting the criteria for an elegant dress watch.
Another example of men’s watches is tool watches, which are typically larger in size due to their specific functions. Two prominent types of tool watches are dive watches and pilot watches.
Dive watches are traditionally larger because they serve a practical purpose. While modern divers rely on dive computers, divers used dive watches like the Rolex Submariner in the past. These watches feature luminescent markers on the dials and rotating bezels, allowing divers to measure their underwater activities’ duration. The larger size of dive watches was functional, as it facilitated easy readability and operation in underwater conditions.
Similarly, pilot watches are also known for their larger dimensions. Originally designed for aviators, pilot watches emphasized legibility and functionality. The larger size allowed pilots to quickly and easily read the time, even under challenging circumstances. Additionally, pilot watches often incorporated features like large crowns to assist pilots’ ability to wind the watch while wearing gloves.
Which Watch Size is the Right Size for You?
Watches come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. However, when determining the ideal size of a watch, the case size alone is not the sole factor to consider. The lug-to-lug measurement plays a crucial role in how well a timepiece wears on the wrist.
This measurement provides an accurate reflection of how the watch will fit and if there will be any overhang. Even if a watch appears wide, as long as it does not extend beyond the wrist, it can still be considered wearable.
For instance, the Panerai Radiomir is large at 45mm in case size, yet it wears compactly without any overhang on my wrist size of 6 inches. By taking into account both the case size and the lug-to-lug measurement, one can ensure a comfortable and well-fitting watch on their wrist.
Considering these factors when choosing a watch is important to ensure optimal wearability and a satisfying overall experience. In my opinion, 38-40mm tends to be the ideal size for wristwatches, and it strikes as a well-balanced size.
Should You Purchase a 34mm Watch?
This question is indeed personal and subjective. If you have wrists that are 16cm or smaller, then a 34mm size can be a suitable choice. However, it’s important to note that 34mm may not be suitable for everyone, especially if you have larger wrists, as it could appear disproportionately small and even comical.
Ultimately, the decision to purchase and wear a 34mm watch is a personal one. It’s important to consider your individual style preferences, wrist size, and how the timepiece looks and feels on your wrist. While getting different perspectives can be helpful, ultimately, you should choose a watch size that you feel comfortable and confident wearing.
Remember that watch sizes are based on personal taste. It’s always a good idea to try on different watch sizes and styles to determine what works best for you. Now let’s delve into the list of 34mm watches and look at them in further detail below.
The Best 34mm Watches for Men
1. Casio World Time (ref. A500WGA-9)
Casio is renowned as the king of affordable watches, offering timepieces as low as under $20 with models like the F91W. Casio produces excellent starter watches as well as durable “beater” watches like the G-Shock series. Now, let’s review the Casio World Time timepiece, which features a 34mm case size.
The Casio World Time watch exudes a retro charm with its gold plating that harkens back to the 1980s. It is the only watch on this list incorporating a digital display, adding to its unique appeal.
With a 34mm wide case, 38mm lug-to-lug measurement, and 9.6mm thickness, the watch offers a compact and sleek design. Weighing only 50g, it provides a light and enjoyable wearing experience. The Casio World Time features a positive LCD display, ensuring excellent legibility.
The case includes two buttons on both sides for easy-function controls, and the clasp is equipped with a clip-on mechanism for convenient adjustability.Overall, the Casio World Time watch is a delightful timepiece with a distinct charm. With a retail price of $48, it remains affordable, making it an attractive option for those seeking both style and value.
2. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound 34mm (ref. TW2T18200)
Timex made a significant comeback with the release of the modern Marlin collection in 2017. This collection is a re-issue of the original Timex Marlin from the 1960s, marking Timex’s first mechanical watch release since 1982.
During the height of the Marlin hype in 2017, a friend of mine took advantage of the craze and purchased several Marlin timepieces, ultimately flipping them for a nice profit.
Now, let’s delve into the specifications of this Marlin re-issue. The case size is 34mm, with a thickness of 10mm. The Marlin offers various dial variations and colors, ranging from silver to black. The hour markers consist of Arabic numerals for even hours and stick markers for odd hours. With a water resistance of 30 meters, the Marlin is suitable for dress watch purposes.
The watch’s crystal is made of acrylic, which is relatively easy to buff out minor scratches. One drawback of the Marlin is its Chinese-made manual winding movement, manufactured by Seagull. Limited information is available about this movement.
Overall, the Marlin exudes an old-world charm. It is a simple yet exquisite dressy timepiece, available at an affordable price of $209. Additionally, Timex often provides discount codes, allowing customers to pay less.
Seiko offers exceptional value for money. One particular Seiko watch we will review is the Presage SRP841J1 from the Cocktail collection. This collection is known for its dressier timepieces. The SRP841J1 has a case size of 34mm and is marketed by Seiko as a ladies’ watch.
However, as we have learned, size is not limited to a specific gender, and this watch can be enjoyed by individuals of all genders. The watch’s dial is the standout feature, showcasing a silver color with beautiful blue hues. It features a unique design resembling a folding Chinese-style fan arranged in a circular pattern.
When light hits the dial, it creates a mesmerizing effect, adding to its visual appeal. The Hardlex domed shape of the crystal creates a visually pleasing effect, particularly when viewed from different angles. Additionally, the domed crystal can cause a slight distortion effect at the outer edges, adding further visual interest to the timepiece.
As a simple three-handed watch, the SRP841J1 includes a date indicator positioned at the 3 o’clock marker. The hour markers consist of applied indices, except for the 3 o’clock position. This watch serves as an excellent entry point into dressier timepieces.
Lastly, the SRP841J1 is attractively priced at $450, making it affordable for enthusiasts looking to own a Seiko timepiece from the Presage collection.
4. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003BK-0101)
I have yet to own a Marathon timepiece in my watch-collecting journey, but I am familiar with the brand’s reputation for producing high-quality watches for U.S. military personnel. The timepiece we will review is the General Purpose Mechanical (referred to as the GPM).
The GPM features a case made of High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, which ensures exceptional lightness and durability. With a case size of 34mm and a thickness of 11mm, it strikes a balanced profile. The watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch-resistant properties.
The GPM houses the Seiko NH35A movement, ensuring reliable timekeeping. It has a water resistance rating of 3ATM, making it suitable for light water splashes. A standout feature of Marathon watches is the use of tritium tubes for low-light viewing.
These tubes contain fluorescent chemicals that automatically emit a glow in low-light environments. While your eyes may require a moment to adjust, once the tubes are fully activated, they emit a strong and colorful brightness.
The General Purpose Mechanical is a robust military field watch designed to withstand demanding conditions. It carries a price tag of $420, often discounted by Marathon, offering enthusiasts an opportunity to own a durable and reliable timepiece at a more affordable price.
Until recently, I was unaware that Hamilton offered a Khaki Field Watch in 34mm, which highlights the brand’s commitment to catering to a wide range of wrist sizes. The Khaki collection spans from 34mm to 44mm, demonstrating that Hamilton understands the importance of offering diverse sizes for their watch models.
The Khaki Field Officer Auto in 34mm features a case with a thickness of 10.4mm. The dial is black, and the hour markers consist of Arabic numerals, with larger numerals at the 6 and 12 o’clock positions. Positioned at the 3 o’clock marker, there is a date indicator integrated into the dial. This Khaki Auto watch includes three hands, with a red arrow adorning the tip of the second hand, adding a subtle touch of color.
With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Khaki Field Officer Auto is well-suited for various activities. It houses an ETA 2824 automatic movement, a reliable and widely recognized movement in the watch industry. This choice of movement is fitting for a military field watch, as it ensures dependable performance whenever you need it.
It’s worth noting that the Officer in this size has been discontinued. However, if you are interested in acquiring one, the secondary market may offer opportunities to find this timepiece. The Khaki Field Officer Auto carries a rich heritage and boasts an appealing design that captures the essence of a military field watch.
6. Victorinox Maverick Small Black 34 mm (ref. 241701)
Victorinox, renowned for being the original maker of Swiss Army Knives since 1884, has established a reputation for producing high-quality products. Their expertise in craftsmanship extends to their line of durable watches.
The watch under review is the Maverick Small Black, featuring a 34mm case diameter that sits thinly at 8mm. Inspired by dive watches, this Maverick model includes a unidirectional bezel. However, it’s important to note that despite its dive-inspired design, it offers a water resistance rating of 100m, which may limit its suitability for extensive diving activities.
The black dial of the watch is adorned with Arabic numerals at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, contributing to its legibility. The presence of a date indicator at the 6 o’clock position ensures symmetrical aesthetics.
It’s worth mentioning that due to its 34mm case size and the inclusion of a diver’s bezel, the actual dial of the watch may appear relatively small when worn on the wrist. Therefore, trying on the watch before making a purchase is advisable to ensure the desired fit and appearance.
The Maverick Small is a straightforward, no-frills dive-style watch. With a retail price of $595, it is one of the more affordable options on this list.
7. Longines Conquest 34mm (ref. L3.377.4.58.6)
Longines, renowned for its heritage, quality, and brand recognition, holds a prominent position within the Swatch Group. Therefore, it comes as no surprise to find a Longines timepiece on this list, particularly in a 34mm size.
The Conquest 34mm, although marketed as a ladies’ watch, shares the same aesthetics as its larger counterparts in the 39mm, 41mm, and 43mm case versions. However, it’s important to note that the 34mm case version features a quartz movement instead of an automatic movement, resulting in a downgrade.
The Conquest 34mm serves as an excellent everyday timepiece, boasting a simple dial layout. The 6 o’clock and 12 o’clock positions are marked with numerals, while the remaining hour markers feature stick markers. Positioned at the 3 o’clock mark is a date indicator with a small cut-off marker, maintaining a balanced design.
A potential downside of this watch lies in the design and size of the crown and crown guards. The crown is too long, potentially causing discomfort on the wrist. Additionally, the sharp and edgy crown guards pose a similar issue.
Regrettably, the Conquest 34mm model has been discontinued, necessitating a search in the secondary market to buy it.
8. Junghans Max Bill 34mm Manual Wind (ref. 27/3701.02)
Junghans epitomizes the concept of “less is more,” and their Max Bill collection exemplifies this principle. With a range of automatic, manual winding, chronograph, solar, and quartz models, the collection offers various options. However, in this review, we will focus on the manual wind version.
The Max Bill Manual Wind in 34mm embraces simplicity with its clean and minimalist dial layout. Thin lines serve as hour and seconds markers, and some models feature small Arabic numerals and a small seconds sub-dial. The version under review features a symmetrical dial with small lume plots at the outer edge of the 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock positions.
A hint of lume is also present on the hour and minute hands, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions. Measuring a mere 9mm in thickness and equipped with a domed sapphire crystal, this Max Bill model exudes a vintage charm and provides a delightful wrist-wearing experience.
The design of the Max Bill in 34mm is clean and devoid of superfluous features, making it suitable for all genders. Its iconic design is highly regarded, and adding the Max Bill to one’s watch collection is highly recommended. The Max Bill Manual Wind is available for €975, which roughly translates to $1,050.
Mido, a brand within the Swatch Group, may not be as widely recognized in North America but enjoys popularity in Asia. Positioned in the mid-tier of the Swatch Group hierarchy, Mido falls below Longines but above Hamilton and Tissot in terms of quality and pricing.
This Mido Baroncelli Heritage is an interesting addition to this list as it is officially listed as a 33mm case diameter watch marketed towards women. However, due to its neutral colors and features, it can be easily worn by men with smaller wrists as well.
The dial of the Baroncelli Heritage is matte white with a wrinkled texture reminiscent of canvas material. The hour and minute hands feature a faceted design with alternating polish finishing, while the second hand adds a subtle touch of blue to the white dial. A date indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock, breaking up the dial that showcases painted hour and minute indices.
The Baroncelli Heritage comes with a 7-piece link bracelet, resembling the style of the Breitling Navitimer. Overall, this watch exudes a dressy aesthetic and is well-suited for formal evening wear. The retail price of the Baroncelli Heritage is $1,100.
10. Tudor Royal 34mm (ref. M28400-0006)
Tudor is a watch brand that holds a special place in my heart, having owned the Tudor Prince Date 74000 and currently owning the Black Bay Harrods Edition. The Tudor Prince, like the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, is 34mm in case diameter and features a slim case profile.
However, the Prince collection has been discontinued, and recent variations were only available in Asia by Tudor. In 2020, Tudor introduced the new Tudor Royal collection, initially targeting the Asian market but now available worldwide. The Royal collection has various case sizes, including the 34mm version we are reviewing here.
The Tudor Royal features an engine-turned-bezel reminiscent of vintage Rolex Datejusts and a satin-like finish on the case. The dial is a sunburst blue with Roman numerals for hour markers and a date indicator at 3 o’clock. The watch incorporates an integrated bracelet design with five pieces in each link. The Tudor Royal draws inspiration from the Rolex Oysterquartz with its case shape and integrated design but with a modern interpretation.
Furthermore, Tudor now offers a five-year warranty on their watches, ensuring the trust and reliability of the brand. With a retail price of $2,350, the Tudor Royal presents an attractive proposition compared to its Rolex counterparts, providing a great value proposition for watch enthusiasts.
11. Cartier Tank Must Large (ref. WSTA0041)
The Tank watch by Cartier holds historical significance as it was introduced in 1918 and was one of the first wristwatches created. This timepiece marked a significant milestone in horology. Since then, Cartier has established itself as a renowned jeweler and watchmaker in the industry, with the focus here being on the Tank Must Large.
The Tank Must Large embodies the essence of a classic dress watch, featuring dimensions of 34mm in length and 25.5mm in width. The dial boasts a silvery white color adorned with black Roman numerals, exuding timeless elegance. The Tank’s hands are iconic blue sword-shaped hands, adding a touch of sophistication.
With a leather strap and Cartier’s distinctive deployant clasp, which allows the excess strap to fold inward, the Tank Must Large offers both comfort and style. One of the signature features of this Tank is the beaded crown with a blue cabochon, which is a hallmark of Cartier’s design and adds visual delight.
The Tank is unquestionably a stunning timepiece that serves as a perfect complement to any evening attire. Its design is equally captivating on both male and female wrists, making it a versatile watch.
Considering the brand’s heritage and the historical significance of the Tank, this Tank is reasonably priced at $3,100 for a luxury watch of this caliber.
Omega has a rich history and a strong reputation for quality timepieces. For me, it also reminds me of my grandfather, making it my favorite watch brand.
The Aqua Terra 34mm retains the signature elegance of the Aqua Terra collection while offering a slightly more feminine design than its larger 38mm counterpart. With its 34mm case size and 11.9mm thickness, it is well-suited for those with smaller wrists. The lug width of 16mm and lug-to-lug length of 40.5mm further contribute to its comfortable fit.
This particular version of the Aqua Terra features a captivating “Lagoon Green” dial, which adds a unique and refreshing touch. The date indicator is positioned at 6 o’clock, ensuring a balanced and symmetrical design. The rounded hour markers distinguish it from the 38mm version, giving it its own distinct character.
Inside, the watch houses the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a precise and reliable movement that is METAS-certified, guaranteeing exceptional accuracy within a range of 0/+5 seconds per day.
With a water resistance rating of 150m, the Aqua Terra 34mm is a versatile timepiece that can handle more than just everyday splashes. Weighing in at 100g, it offers a comfortable and enjoyable wearing experience throughout the day.
Priced at $6300, the Aqua Terra 34mm represents a significant price. However, given its versatility, it could potentially serve as a one-watch collection.
13. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 34 (ref. 124200)
Rolex, known for its prestigious reputation and iconic designs, certainly holds its crown in the Swiss luxury watch industry. The Oyster Perpetual line, particularly in its 34mm size, offers a more understated and subtle option within Rolex’s catalog.
Although the 34mm case size may initially sound small, the Oyster Perpetual’s design is deceptive in terms of how it wears on the wrist. The protruding case back and thicker lugs give it a larger presence. Additionally, the Oyster Perpetual offers a wide range of dial color variants, ensuring you’ll find one that suits your style.
With a water resistance rating of 100m, the Oyster Perpetual allows you to confidently engage in activities such as swimming without worrying about water damage. The watch’s clasp features Rolex’s Easylink system, allowing for a small extension of the bracelet if your wrist swells up on a warm day.
This practical feature, appreciated by many, has set a standard other brands have followed. Among all the watches listed here, the Oyster Perpetual is my favorite, and it’s easy to understand why. Its simplicity and timeless design make a strong statement on the wrist. Priced at $5,800, the Oyster Perpetual represents a significant investment and long waitlist at authorized dealers.
14. Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919J
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is indeed regarded as the epitome of a dress watch, exuding sophistication with its 34mm case size, hobnail-textured bezel, and leather strap. The Calatrava 3919J fits snugly on the wrist and easily slips under the cuff due to its slim profile, measuring only 7mm in thickness.
Patek Philippe utilizes 18K yellow gold for the case material, a hallmark of their exquisite craftsmanship. The white dial features black Roman numerals, complemented by a leaf-shaped hour and minute hands. The small seconds sub-dial is positioned above the 6 o’clock mark.
The hand-wound movement of the Calatrava 3919J contributes to its thinness, allowing for a sleek and refined appearance. Additionally, it offers a power reserve of up to 48 hours, ensuring sufficient wear between winding.
While the Calatrava 3919J may not be my ideal dress watch from Patek Philippe, its intricate details and meticulous craftsmanship are undeniable. This Calatrava would undoubtedly be a fitting companion for a black-tie event or any formal occasion.
As the Calatrava 3919J was discontinued in 2006, sourcing it from the secondary market is the most likely option for purchasing this timepiece.
Several years ago in New York City, I visited a watch store and noticed a vintage AP Royal Oak in the display case. It was 33-34mm in case size, and I asked to try it on. It was a great experience trying on the vintage Royal Oak, and especially in smaller case sizes, they offer a unique and charming appeal to watch enthusiasts.
Moving on to the modern Royal Oak in 34mm ref. 77350ST.OO.1261ST.01, it is indeed a versatile and unisex timepiece, despite the availability of larger case sizes within the AP catalog. The stainless steel case of the 34mm Royal Oak features a combination of polished and brushed finishes, showcasing the brand’s fine craftsmanship. The watch measures 8.8mm in thickness and offers a water resistance of 50m.
The silver-toned dial with the iconic “Grande Tapisserie” pattern, white gold applied hour-markers, and luminescent-coated Royal Oak hands contribute to the watch’s distinctive aesthetic. The bracelet is secured by a butterfly deployant clasp with dual buttons, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit.
A minor critique of this timepiece is the absence of a micro-adjustment feature on the bracelet, which may make achieving the perfect fit a bit more challenging.
Considering the prestigious Royal Oak lineage and “Holy Trinity” title associated with the brand, the 34mm Royal Oak commands a high retail price of $25,300. Additionally, it’s worth mentioning that demand for Royal Oak watches often exceeds supply, resulting in waitlists for interested buyers.
Conclusion
Overall, 34 mm-sized watches are gaining appreciation in the watch industry, particularly among individuals with smaller wrists. This trend is refreshing as watch brands recognize the need for smaller sizes. As someone who has owned a variety of 34mm watches, I regret selling the Tudor Prince Date too soon.
I wholeheartedly support more brands offering watch variants in smaller case sizes, as it allows individuals with smaller wrists to fully enjoy the hobby. In my opinion, 34mm is a classically styled case size that strikes a balance. It is small and lightweight enough to go unnoticed on the wrist when desired, yet it still exudes elegance.
The message I want to convey is that we should be open to wearing watches with smaller case sizes. Embracing smaller watches can enhance the overall wearing experience. So, don’t hesitate to explore the world of 34mm watches!
Wristwatches have evolved significantly since their inception, with various shapes, designs, and functionalities captivating watch enthusiasts around the world.
Among these fascinating timepieces, the rectangular wristwatch stands out as a symbol of elegance and sophistication. In this guide, we delve into the history of rectangular wristwatches, tracing their origins and significant milestones, and explore a range of the top 25 watches available today to the discerning buyer.
About Rectangular Watches
The origins of the rectangular wristwatch can be traced back to the early 20th century. Prior to this era, pocket watches were the preferred timekeeping devices, with wristwatches being primarily worn by women as decorative accessories. However, the practicality and convenience of wristwatches soon caught the attention of men, leading to a shift in design and the emergence of new shapes.
Pioneering Designs
One of the earliest pioneers of rectangular wristwatches was Louis Cartier, a prominent figure in the watchmaking industry. In 1904, Cartier introduced the Santos-Dumont, named after the famous Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont.
This groundbreaking timepiece featured a rectangular case, making it one of the first commercially successful rectangular wristwatches for men. The Santos-Dumont’s sleek and geometric design set the stage for future rectangular watches to come.
Art Deco Era
The Art Deco movement of the 1920s and 1930s further popularized rectangular wristwatches. This era celebrated bold geometric shapes, clean lines, and a modern aesthetic, which aligned perfectly with the design philosophy of rectangular watches.
Art Deco-inspired timepieces featured rectangular cases adorned with intricate details, such as diamond accents, enamel work, and contrasting color combinations. These watches became symbols of luxury and refinement, appealing to fashion-conscious individuals around the world.
The Rise of Icons
In the mid-20th century, rectangular wristwatches reached new heights of popularity with the introduction of iconic models. One such timepiece was the Cartier Tank, introduced in 1917, which featured a rectangular case inspired by the shape of military tanks.
The Tank became synonymous with elegance and style, worn by influential personalities as wide-ranging as Jacqueline Kennedy, Princess Diana, Steve McQueen, and even Andy Warhol. Other renowned rectangular watches, such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso and the Patek Philippe Gondolo, solidified the rectangular timepiece as a timeless accessory.
Modern Interpretations
With the advent of modern technology and contemporary design trends, rectangular wristwatches have continued to evolve while retaining their classic allure. Luxury watch brands and independent watchmakers have embraced innovative materials, intricate complications, and artistic craftsmanship to create unique interpretations of rectangular watches.
These timepieces blend tradition with modernity, attracting a new generation of watch enthusiasts seeking distinctive aesthetics and exceptional craftsmanship.
Should You Buy A Rectangular Watch?
For the modern buyer, a rectangular watch is an attractive proposition on many levels. If you find yourself drawn to the aesthetic beauty of a timepiece, appreciate design outside the established norm, or overall enjoy the classic, confident look of a rectangular watch, it’s something to definitely consider.
Rectangular watches often attract buyers with a sense of style and flair and usually pair well with a suit or dress shirt. They’ll also add a touch of class and edge when paired with jeans and a T-shirt and look just as at home in sweatpants (it’s a vibe) as in a tuxedo.
Though capable as a “one-watch collection”, a rectangular watch may also work best within a rotation of watches for those seeking a less dressy feel and a steel bracelet (many rectangular watches are paired with leather bands, after all) every now and then. With all that said, let’s jump in.
The Best Rectangular Watches
1. Seiko SUP896P9
When deciding if a rectangular-shaped watch is for you, the Seiko SUP896P9 is an excellent option with its approachable pricing and idyllic sizing. Don’t be put off by the 28.1mm width (7.4mm thickness). Rectangular watches will often wear larger than their circular counterparts, contrary to what the measurements imply, and the Seiko is no exception.
With an attractive champagne-colored dial and gold case, the SUP896 is paired with a brown leather strap (20mm lug width), which can be swapped out for higher-quality options if desired. Most interestingly, the watch features Seiko’s V115 Caliber Solar Powered quartz movement, providing the convenience of a “grab and go” watch in that the user won’t need to set it up often.
And, if this is your first rectangular-styled watch in a larger overall collection, or perhaps your rarely worn dress occasion watch, that convenience will be appreciated as you won’t have to set it each time you decide to wear it.
Retail Price: $215.00
2. Void Watches V02MKII
Founded in 2008 by Swedish designer David Ericsson, VOID Watches is a brand that has successfully captured its own sense of individuality and design ethos in a short amount of time. In their own words, the V02MKII, for example, was “designed to be clever, not smart”, and features an unusual three-compass needle hand layout.
Time is told by matching the color of the hands with the same colored digit on the dial in such a way that “reminds us about the value and passage of time”, contrary to the ease and quickness of high legibility. Sized at 36mm in width, 8.4mm thick, and 42mm in height, the watch wears broadly across the wrist and is a certified conversation starter.
Retail Price: $265 – $295.00
3. Brew 8-Bit Rectangular Watch
A darling of the smaller independent brands in the affordable price point, Brew has become a household name in watch collecting circles due to their strong sense of design and thoughtful details often tied to founder Jonathan Ferrer’s interests (even the name is inspired by his love of coffee).
The 8-Bit Brew is no exception. Measuring 38mm in width, 10.4mm thick, and 41.5mm in height, the watch is an ode to classic 8-bit arcade games with a quirky use of video game-like fonts, colors, and even sub-dial second hands as a hybrid meca-quartz chronograph (“PRESS START” and “PRESS RESET” are cleverly engraved on the caseback for each respective pusher). When nostalgia and design collide, this is the watch for you.
Retail Price: $395.00
4. Bulova Frank Sinatra My Way (ref. 98A261)
Frank Sinatra is well known for wearing Bulova timepieces throughout his iconic life and entertainment career. Indeed, in the 1950s, Bulova was even a sponsor of the Frank Sinatra Show on television. Due to this famed partnership and pairing, Bulova continues to produce the “Frank Sinatra” special collection of watches to pay tribute to the man himself across various vintage-inspired Bulova designs in the modern day.
The “My Way” reference 98A261 is one such example, featuring a gold-tone rectangular case (29.5mm width, 9mm thickness, 47mm height) with the performer’s signature Fedora hat (on the gold-tone crown) and “My Way” stamped on the rear of the watch and deployant buckle. All these design flourishes aside, the 98A261 is an attractive gold-tone option with classic styling from a historic watch brand.
Retail Price: $550.00
5. Raymond Weil Toccata Rectangular (ref. 5425-PC-00300)
Founded in 1976, at the height of the “quartz crisis” of the Swiss watch industry, Raymond Weil has long sought to incorporate the beauty and art of music within his watchmaking designs. The Toccata Rectangular (reference 5425-PC-00300) is, in this vein, named after the Italian word for “touch”, based on rapid keyboard composition, which demonstrates the technique or ability of a skilled musician.
As such, the Toccata is a yellow gold PVD plated wristwatch (37mm width, 6.4mm thickness, 29mm height) with artistic bevels and punctuated black Roman numerals decorating a white dial in high contrast. The design is refined and suggests the same technique and ability of its namesake for the brand. Featuring the ease of a quartz movement, and a date wheel at 3 o’clock, the Toccata is additionally water resistant to 50m.
Retail Price: $1,150.00
6. Hamilton American Classic Boulton Small Second Quartz (ref. H13421611)
The Hamilton watch company was founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. The brand played a significant role in the development of the American watch industry. Over the years, Hamilton became known for its precise timekeeping and innovative designs, earning a reputation as a respected and iconic watchmaker.
As an innovator in design, the Boulton line of watches was first manufactured in 1940, combining a uniquely American classic style with Art Deco, as characterized by the almost tonneau-shaped case’s curved lugs, and elegant elongated case (27.3mm width, 8.21mm thickness, 31.1mm height).
The watch features a small seconds hand subdial at the six o’clock position and is powered by a quartz movement. Despite the modern tech and construction, the Boulton has a classic look as if pulled out of your grandfather’s old drawer from decades ago.
Frederique Constant was established in 1988 by Aletta Bax and Peter Stas in Geneva, Switzerland. The brand quickly gained recognition for its commitment to classic and elegant timepieces at accessible prices. The brand’s passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail propelled its success, earning Frederique Constant a prominent position in the luxury watch market worldwide.
With the development of the Carrée, the brand chose to highlight the elegance of 1920s design, in line with this brand philosophy. Impressive case finishing and a blue guilloche dial at this level of execution are rare for the price point. And measuring 30.4mm in width, 9.71mm in thickness, and 33.3mm in height, the watch is indeed a modern, contemporary take and fit with clear echoes of the past in design. Finally, the timepiece is powered by an automatic SW-200 movement.
Longines, a renowned Swiss watchmaker founded in 1832, has a rich history spanning over 180 years. With a legacy of innovation and precision, Longines has become synonymous with elegance and performance. From pioneering advancements in watchmaking to iconic designs, Longines continues to symbolize timeless luxury and craftsmanship, and the DolceVita line of watches is no exception.
As an homage to “the sweetness of life”, the watch features softened lines and a billowing engraving radiating from the center of the silver dial. The Roman Numerals from one to twelve spanning the dial add a sense of classicism, in contrast to the quartz caliber L176 movement powering the watch without much use of effort on the wearer’s part. A classic option for the smaller to medium-sized wrist, measuring 23.3mm in width, 7.2mm in thickness, and 37mm in height.
NOMOS Glashütte is a German watch manufacturer established in 1990. In its relatively short history, the brand has made a significant impact on the watch industry. Known for their minimalist Bauhaus-like designs and in-house movements, NOMOS combines traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, garnering global recognition for their exceptional quality and modern timepieces, even garnering the admiration of industry legend Philippe Dufour.
At its core, the Tetra (reference 408) clearly expresses the clean, no-frills Bauhaus design. Sparing in busy detail, the watch is square-like in shape (29.5mm width, 6.3mm thickness, 29.5mm height to be exact), and one is drawn immediately to the clean dial decorated with sans serif numerals and a sparse second sub-dial register at six o’clock.
Don’t be fooled by the simple design; NOMOS manufacturing is Germanic in its precise execution and beauty underneath, with the in-house manual wound Alpha caliber providing up to 43 hours of power reserve on a full wind, finished to a high standard.
Retail Price: Starting at $2,080 (stainless steel back, leather strap)
10. Baume & Mercier Hampton 10528
Baume & Mercier, a distinguished Swiss watchmaker established in 1830, boasts a rich history of crafting exquisite timepieces. From its beginnings in the Jura Mountains to becoming a renowned international brand, Baume & Mercier has consistently upheld its values of tradition, innovation, and elegance.
Known for blending Swiss watchmaking expertise with contemporary design, the brand has garnered a loyal following. With a commitment to quality and a legacy spanning over 190 years, Baume & Mercier continues to create timepieces that embody timeless sophistication.
The Hampton 10528 is a handsome example of the brand ethos, featuring a rectangular case (31mm width, 48.1mm height), a small seconds sub-dial, and a date window at six o’clock. On the rear of the case, the automatic 27 jewel movement is visible, while mixed opaline texture and riveted black ruthenium indexes on the front side provide a confident, masculine look.
Oris, a Swiss watch company established in 1904, has a fascinating history rooted in its dedication to quality and precision. From its humble beginnings in Hölstein, Switzerland, Oris has become a renowned name in mechanical watches. Known for its functional designs and reliable movements, Oris has navigated the industry’s challenges with resilience.
Embracing their independence, Oris has consistently delivered timepieces that embody Swiss craftsmanship and offer exceptional value, earning the admiration of watch enthusiasts worldwide.
The Rectangular line of watches is heavily influenced by the Art Deco style, as evidenced by the case shape (25.5mm width, 38mm height) and dial design, with a railroad track-like design notating the seconds and minutes along the axis of the dial. The watch features a mineral glass case back, displaying the in-house Oris caliber 561 featuring time and date.
Retail Price: $2,050.00
12. Rado True Square Automatic Skeleton (ref. R27126012)
Rado, a Swiss watch brand founded in 1917, has a remarkable history of innovation and design. Pioneering the use of high-tech materials such as ceramic, Rado has consistently pushed boundaries in watchmaking. Renowned for their sleek and modern aesthetics, Rado timepieces combine Swiss precision with cutting-edge materials to create durable and distinctive watches that have gained global recognition and popularity.
The True Square Automatic Skeleton is such an example, with its monobloc 38mm width case (9.7mm thickness) made of polished white ceramic. The eye-catching R808 movement is skeletonized, with a yellow gold colored bridge and nickel-colored top plate contrasting the white vertical brushed background in a unique pattern that only Rado could conjure up.
For those looking for the classic shape of a rectangular case in completely modern high-tech execution, the Rado True Square Skeleton is your bet.
Retail Price: $2,800.00
13. Vieren Black Croc Leather Watch
Founded in Toronto in 2020, Vieren is a microbrand aiming to lead the next generation of watch-making and entrepreneurship at the helm of founder Jess Chow and creative director Sunny Fong (Winner of Project Runway Canada).
Chow, whose family holds over 40 years of luxury watchmaking history, is afforded direct access to a watchmaking studio in La-Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, allowing a bespoke-like level of customization and craftsmanship in each watch they produce.
The Black Croc Leather watch was designed to be a daily wearer, but its design is not of the ordinary variety. Inspired by leather as a material, the dial itself is an extension of the black croc leather strap, accentuated by light yet subtle execution.
Using leather as a dial material is no easy feat. It must be ultra-thin and finished meticulously to ensure proper form, function, and durability. The watch is sure to make a statement, yet it wears slim and comfortable on most wrists (27mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41.5mm height).
Retail Price: From $1,950
14. Cartier Tank Must (ref. CRWSTA0041)
When speaking of rectangular watches, perhaps none is more prolific or enduring as the Cartier Tank. With a storied history dating back to 1917, the original Tank was inspired by the design of tanks used in World War I. A rectangular case, parallel lines, and a distinctive crown were the result of Louis Cartier’s imaginings.
Quickly becoming a symbol of elegance and sophistication in the following years and decades, the Tank collection has expanded to include various models and variations while maintaining its timeless classic aesthetic. In 2021, the Tank “Must” returned as a reinterpretation of the 1970s classic.
In particular, the Tank Must Large (reference CRWSTA0041) features a steel case (25.5mm width, 6.6mm thickness, 33.7mm height) with a high autonomy quartz movement inside and the iconic looks of the Roman Numerals circling the outer perimeter of the dial set against an iconic silvered dial with blued-steel sword shape hands—a classic for a reason and the true standard bearer of the style.
Retail Price: $3,100.00 (Leather strap)
15. Hermès Cape Cod 41mm
Hermès, the renowned French luxury brand, ventured into watchmaking in the late 1920s. Since then, their watches have blended Swiss precision with exquisite craftsmanship. With a focus on design, Hermès has created timepieces that embody elegance and style. Known for their iconic straps and distinctive dials, Hermès watches have established a reputation for combining timeless aesthetics with the brand’s legendary heritage of luxury and refinement.
The Cape Cod line of watches, and in particular, the 41mm, is one such execution. With a 33mm width and 41mm height, the case is most distinctive in its “wired” look, with the lugs on either side extending past the dial following the curve of a softened rectangular shape, evoking a strong sense of identity and design not seen with more traditional watchmakers who stick to the typical shapes and case aesthetic.
The sense of design continues with the Arabic numerals in a bold yet subtle font and a date feature on the three o’clock side of the dial, which does its best not to undermine symmetry with its use of a white background wheel. Powered by a Swiss-Made quartz movement, the watch is water-resistant to 3 bar.
Retail Price: $3,375.00
16. TAG Heuer Monaco x Gulf (ref. CBL2115.FC6494)
The Tag Heuer Monaco watch has a captivating history that began in 1969. It gained worldwide fame as the first square and water-resistant automatic chronograph watch. The Monaco then achieved iconic status when Steve McQueen wore it in the film “Le Mans”, epitomizing the look of the cool and sporty watch design.
Throughout the years, Tag Heuer has continued to evolve the Monaco, introducing various iterations and limited editions while retaining its distinct square shape and vintage-inspired design. Today, the Tag Heuer Monaco remains an emblem of daring innovation and timeless style in the world of luxury watches.
The Monaco X Gulf (reference CBL2115.FC6494), in particular, represents the historical relationship between Heuer and Gulf, merging the logos of both in its usage of blue tones and orange. As a winner of the “Iconic Watch Prize” of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG) in 2022, this design sense has not gone unnoticed.
Design chops and accolades aside, the watch features the Caliber HEUER02 Automatic movement with 80 hours of power reserve for the automatic chronograph movement and is water resistant to 100 meters. A true combination of sport and elegant design.
Retail Price: $7,800.00
17. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds (ref. Q713842J)
In the annals of historic and trailblazing rectangular-shaped watch design, the Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) Reverso ranks right at the top with the Cartier Tank in historic importance and cultural legacy. Launched in 1931, the story goes that the Reverso was originally designed for polo players.
It featured a unique reversible case to protect the delicate dial during matches, with the user able to flip between either side of the case depending on usage. The Reverso’s Art Deco aesthetic and innovative concept quickly garnered attention.
Over the years, it has evolved into an enduring icon of horology, appreciated for its elegant versatility. The Reverso collection expanded to include various complications and designs while staying true to its signature reversible case.
Perhaps the truest to this original design is the Tribute Small Seconds (reference Q713842J), with its simplified focus on the small seconds and opaline dial (in contrast to the high-level complications featured on other models).
The rear of the case is left blank, enabling space for custom engravings to further personalize the watch for your own. Own the emblematic watch from “the watchmaker’s watchmaker”, with the JLC Reverso. (Case size 27.4mm width, 8.51mm thickness, 45.6mm height)
The history of Glashütte Original watches is deeply rooted in the German town of Glashütte, renowned for its horological heritage. Founded in 1845, the brand has endured tumultuous times, including wars and political shifts.
Despite these challenges, Glashütte Original persevered and established a reputation for exceptional craftsmanship and precision. Their timepieces feature in-house movements, showcasing their dedication to watchmaking traditions and technical prowess.
Today, Glashütte Original continues to create exquisite watches, embodying the spirit of German watchmaking excellence and timeless design. The Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, as such, recalls the dynamism and gentle curves of the eponymous decade with unmistakable retro quality and character.
A sizable watch at 40mm in width, 14.1mm thick, and 40mm in height, it is also a capable one despite the fine level of finishing and chronograph functions, with a sporty 10 bar water resistance.
Technical features abound, with over 70 hours of power reserve and a display case back showcasing the in-house caliber 37-02 with hour and minute, stop second flyback chronograph, small seconds, 30-minute, and 12-hour counter functionality, alongside a Panorama date. A powerhouse in design, function, and capability.
Retail Price: $13,400.00
19. Piaget Emperador Black Tie (ref. G0A33070)
The history of Piaget watches began in 1874 when Georges Edouard Piaget established his first workshop in La Côte-aux-Fées, Switzerland. Initially known for producing high-precision movements, Piaget soon expanded into creating complete timepieces.
In the 1950s, they gained recognition for their ultra-thin watches, setting numerous records in slimness. Piaget’s expertise in watchmaking and jewelry led to the development of iconic models like the Piaget Polo and the Piaget Altiplano.
Today, Piaget continues to craft exquisite timepieces that blend technical mastery with artistic elegance, solidifying their position as a leading name in luxury Swiss watchmaking. Among such iconic models, the Emperador is a particularly handsome addition, with its Guilloche sunburst motif dial and elegant blend of curves and straight lines alongside the corners of the 18K rose gold case.
An 18K rose gold Piaget coat-of-arms adorns the dial, with a small seconds display positioned at ten o’clock and a power reserve indicator at the six o’clock position. (Measurements: 32mm width, 9.2mm thickness, 41mm height)
The history of H. Moser & Cie watches dates back to 1828, when Heinrich Moser founded the brand in St. Petersburg, Russia. Renowned for their exquisite timepieces, Moser watches became favored by Russian royalty and high society. After relocating to Switzerland in 1848, the brand continued to thrive.
Throughout the years, H. Moser & Cie has committed to traditional craftsmanship and innovation. Their watches feature sophisticated designs and intricate movements, combining technical expertise with understated elegance.
Helmed by Edouard Meylan, Moser of today often incorporates quirky details and conceptual design, of which the Swiss Alp reference 5324-1205 is no exception. A satirical take on a certain ubiquitous “smart watch”, the watch is rectangular in shape (38.2mm width, 44mm height), encased in a DLC steel case with an incredibly dark Vantablack dial (the darkest man-made material ever made) which can be compared to looking into a black hole.
A turning small seconds disk at six o’clock resembles a loading symbol of a digital device, and a power reserve indicator is displayed on the rear to keep the dial side altogether uncluttered. Limited to 50 pieces and long since sold out, one must look to the secondary market to obtain this prolific watch.
Retail Price: $45,000.00
21. Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)
The history of Vacheron Constantin watches is a remarkable journey that began in 1755, making it one of the oldest Swiss watch manufacturers in existence. Founded by Jean-Marc Vacheron, the brand quickly gained a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces of exceptional quality.
Throughout the centuries, Vacheron Constantin has remained committed to precision, innovation, and artistic craftsmanship. Their watches have adorned the wrists of royalty, dignitaries, and connoisseurs worldwide.
With a rich heritage and a tradition of technical excellence, Vacheron Constantin continues to create timepieces that merge traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, solidifying its status as a prestigious and revered name in the world of haute horology. The American 1921, in particular, reinterprets a model launched in 1921 for the American market during the so-called “Roaring Twenties”.
Upon seeing the watch, one is immediately drawn to the rotated dial alignment and crown at the top of the top right side of the pink gold case (40mm width, 8.06mm thickness, 40mm height). This diagonal reading of the time enables the wearer to read at a glance without needing to turn the wrist, and the black-painted Arabic numerals with small seconds at three and four o’clock provide an exquisite touch to an already attractively unique design.
Retail Price: $36,800.00
22. Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (ref. 645.QL.7117.RX)
Hublot, a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1980 by Carlo Crocco, has made a significant impact on the watch industry. However, it was under the leadership of Jean-Claude Biver in the early 2000s that Hublot experienced a transformative period. In 2005, Hublot introduced its groundbreaking and iconic timepiece, the Big Bang.
With its distinctive design, combining a bold and robust case with a fusion of materials, the Big Bang became an instant sensation. It symbolized the fusion of tradition and innovation, embodying Hublot’s philosophy of the “Art of Fusion.”
The Big Bang’s success propelled Hublot’s rise to prominence, solidifying its position as a trailblazing brand in the luxury watch market. In the Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Blue (reference 645.QL.7117.RX), we find a watch made of carbon fiber, blue composite material, and sapphire in typical Hublot skeletonized form. Sized at 42mm, the watch features a tourbillon movement along with hours, minutes, and power reserve functionality. A true mix of high horology complication with forward-thinking modern materials.
Retail Price: $100,000.00
23. Richard Mille RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold
Richard Mille, established in 2001, has quickly become synonymous with cutting-edge technology, avant-garde design, and exceptional craftsmanship in the years since its inception. Founded by Richard Mille himself, the brand pushed the boundaries of traditional watchmaking, incorporating innovative materials and high-tech advancements.
Among Richard Mille’s prolific collection is the RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch. Introduced in 2007, it exemplifies the brand’s commitment to precision and elegance. The RM016 features an ultra-thin white gold case, measuring 8.25mm thick (38mm width, 50mm height), showcasing Richard Mille’s mastery of slim watchmaking. The movement, crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensures remarkable accuracy and reliability.
The RM016 Ultra Thin White Gold watch reflects Richard Mille’s dedication to merging technical excellence with sophisticated aesthetics. It embodies the brand’s philosophy of creating visually striking and exceptionally engineered timepieces, cementing Richard Mille’s position as a pioneer in modern luxury watchmaking.
Retail Price: $60,000.00
24. A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 703.048)
Founded in 1845 by Ferdinand Adolph Lange in the town of Glashütte, the brand became renowned for crafting exquisite pocket watches. However, World War II and subsequent political changes led to the company’s closure in 1948.
It wasn’t until 1990, after the fall of the Berlin Wall, that Walter Lange, Ferdinand’s great-grandson, revived the brand. A. Lange & Söhne quickly reestablished itself as a German precision and craftsmanship symbol, crafting exceptional timepieces characterized by intricate movements, exquisite finishing, and timeless design.
The Cabaret line, in particular, was originally introduced in 1997 as the brand’s first rectangular watch but was discontinued in 2013 after poor sales performance. Revived in 2021 as a limited number of 30 production pieces, the reference 703.048 Cabaret Tourbillon Handwerkskunst is made of 950 platinum (29.5mm width, 10.3mm thickness, 39.2mm height), embellished in Art Deco-inspired designs such as smooth rounded corners and a stepped bezel.
An oversized date is featured at twelve o’clock, with a power reserve at four, running seconds at eight, and the enchanting tourbillon at six. All finished to the utmost degree of perfection, the hand engraving (tremblage) and black polish throughout the watch furniture, case, and dial is a triumph of watchmaking skill.
Retail Price: EUR 315,200 (limited to 30 numbered pieces)
When Yvan Arpa, founder and president of ArtyA, debuted the 3 Gongs Minute Repeater, Regulator, & Double Axis Tourbillon in 2016, it was most certainly the watchmaker’s most complicated watch ever. Encased in pink gold and titanium (measuring 47.3mm in width, 18.1mm thick, and 64.6mm in height), Arpa sought to expand his Son of Sound collection with a minute repeater.
Arpa wanted to amplify the sound of his movement and designed the main plate to resemble the Gretsch guitar, by which the sound is inspired. The minute repeater itself has three gongs. One to acknowledge system engagement, another for hours, another for the minutes, and two striking sounds for the quarter hours. As if the focus on sound amplification wasn’t enough, the sapphire back of the watch is designed to add volume to the sound and allow the tourbillon to turn on a secondary axis.
Customers at the time were able to work with the brand’s master watchmaker to further customize the tone of the sound, to fit their preferences exactly. As a work of art and sound, the 3 Gongs required over one thousand hours of hand work to produce and assemble.
Retail Price: 480,000 CHF
26. Patek Philippe Gondolo Collection (ref. 7041R)
As mentioned earlier, you can’t talk about rectangular watches without mentioning the Gondolo Collection from Patek Philippe. The brand name speaks for itself, but the 7041R from the collection stands out as a personal favorite.
It holds a signature Gondolo look in the case and dial but offers a unique twist of its own at the same time. When it comes to the specs, it’s the rose gold case and classic aspects of the watch that catch my eye the most.
Of course, the watch is much more than that, featuring a precise Caliber 215 PS movement, a finely grained dial, and more. I also have to mention the diamond-set flange here, which includes 108 diamonds and reflects from every angle.
I’m also a huge fan of the sizing for the case. This may have been just the luck of the draw, but the 30 x 33.8mm case feels like the perfect fit. You also get the benefit of a sapphire crystal case back, which highlights both durability and beauty.
Between the detailed craftsmanship and stylish beauty, this is a timepiece that’s meant to last more than one lifetime. I believe this is truly reflected in every aspect, from the engineering and materials all the way down to the asking price.
Retail Price: $35,000 to $40,000 USD
In Conclusion
The history of rectangular wristwatches spans over a century, marked by innovation, artistic expression, and enduring elegance. From the pioneering designs of Louis Cartier to the iconic status of the Cartier Tank, these timepieces have evolved from functional tools to symbols of style and refinement.
Modern rectangular watches continue to captivate watch lovers with their timeless appeal, combining heritage and contemporary design elements. Whether worn as a statement piece or a daily companion, the rectangular wristwatch remains an embodiment of sophistication and timeless elegance.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual and other models have long been key targets for counterfeit production, with many replicas emerging from China. In April last year, US Customs and Border Protection officers in Indianapolis confiscated hundreds of fake Rolex watches.
The watches came in two shipments that originated in Hong Kong and were destined for Brooklyn, New York. If sold as real, they would have been valued at more than $10 million.
Benjamin Clymer, the founder of Hodinkee, a top watch magazine, once remarked that there are more fake Rolex watches on the market than all other fakes combined.
With technological advancements, many producers of counterfeit Rolex watches have improved their manufacturing processes, making it extremely difficult to tell a fake Rolex watch from the real deal.
The Oyster Perpetual collection is our focus today because it embodies the brand’s exquisite craftsmanship and prestige. It features a lineup of watches that all draw inspiration from the original Oyster, which was the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch created in 1926.
Since it’s a very popular collection that millions have come to love over the years, thousands of replicas are produced yearly.
Below, we will be discussing everything you need to know about this legendary collection and some telltale signs of questionable authenticity to look for when buying a Rolex Oyster Perpetual.
About Fake Rolex Watches
Do you want to know why there are so many fake Rolex watches in circulation? It is because Rolex is the number one producer of G.O.A.T. models aplenty. Rolex is the apotheosis of Haute Horology. Rolex is the peak of all that luxury stands for.
Rolex is the symbol of class. Rolex is representative of precision, functionality, timeless design, elegance, and sophistication in the world of Horology, and unfortunately, not everyone can afford that.
Rolex has earned so much popularity and reputation over the years, and as they say, being the top dog in the market attracts a pack of hungry wolves. The staggering prevalence of counterfeit Rolex watches on the market makes it the most faked watch brand in the world.
If there are so many Fake Rolexes on the market, it only means one thing: massive demand for them. So the big question is, why would someone opt for a fake without an original? Well, let’s look at it this way, the demand for fake Rolex watches can be attributed to various factors, including the prestige of owning a Rolex watch.
However, Rolex has meticulous control over supply. So unlike other luxury brands, the Swiss Marque adopts a strategy of gradual production increase instead of rapid expansion to maintain controlled growth and stability. With an estimated annual revenue of over $8 billion, Rolex has created exclusivity and desirability around its products, which explains why owning a Rolex is considered an achievement.
This high demand, coupled with carefully controlled supply, has led to a surge in the availability of imitators of varying quality. For instance, the infamous Canal Street market in New York has long been associated with blatant replicas sold at dirt-cheap prices. Interestingly, they have also improved their craft and produced deceptive copies to deceive unsuspecting buyers willing to pay a premium price.
The Federation of the Swiss Watch industry reports that counterfeiters produce approximately 1.6 million fake Rolex watches annually, in stark contrast to the 1 million original ones produced by the company.
The availability of fake Rolex watches, blatantly obvious and deceptively well-made, poses a real challenge to the company. Despite this, the watch’s relentless demand and shortage of authentic pieces demonstrate Rolex’s enduring appeal and desirability among consumers and collectors alike.
What Makes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual So Special?
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a sophisticated and elegant masterpiece combining intricate detailing, exceptional craftsmanship, and remarkable reliability. It was in 1926 that Rolex launched the legendary ‘Oyster’ case, which was the world’s first case to be water- and dust-proof.
The Oyster case was hermetically sealed and featured a screw-down crown which allowed it to withstand depths of up to 100 meters. Years passed, and the first self-winding mechanical ‘Perpetual’ movement was released in 1931.
These two important inventions merged to form the Rolex Oyster Perpetual and would serve as the foundation for millions of Rolex watches from that point on, making it extremely popular.
From its groundbreaking creation as the world’s first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch in 1926 to its triumphs in the English Channel swim and record-breaking land speed races, the Oyster Perpetual has cemented itself as an icon of endurance and precision.
Below we highlight the captivating legacy of the Oyster Perpetual and its enduring impact on the world of timekeeping.
Classic Style and Design
The Oyster Perpetual embodies an incredibly well-made construction and democratic pricing; it represents the purest distillation of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating the definitive Swiss-made wristwatch.
Timeless Form and Function
The Oyster Perpetual today inherits the legacy of the original Oyster in addition to avant-garde technicalities. This emphasis on durability and reliability has remained a hallmark of the Oyster Perpetual line.
Direct Descendant of the Original Oyster
The Oyster Perpetual name reflects the two foundational elements of its creation. “Oyster” refers to the pioneering waterproof case, and “Perpetual” signifies the self-winding movement invented by Rolex in 1931. Over time, the Oyster’s Perpetual name became a prefix for various models within the Rolex collection, symbolizing their water resistance and automatic movement.
Excellent Chronometric Precision
Oyster Perpetual features in-house, self-winding movements that are COSC-certified and built to exceptional standards. Incorporating advanced technologies, such as the Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorber, enhances accuracy, stability, and shock resistance.
Timeless Choice for Men and Women
The Oyster Perpetual’s popularity transcends gender, with its more diminutive sizes initially appealing to women. However, the introduction of the 39mm model in 2015 and the 41mm model in 2020 also expanded its appeal to men.
The watch’s design, characterized by its curved lines, slim lugs, and polished and brushed surfaces, has remained remarkably consistent since its launch in 1931. This enduring design and its versatility allow the Oyster Perpetual to complement both casual and formal attire effortlessly.
The Oyster Perpetual remains Rolex’s hallmark of intricate detailing that will continue to exude sophistication, presence, and elegance. This explains why it has become the Holy Grail for watch enthusiasts, with everyone longing to be part of the elite few who possess it, making it a target for counterfeiters.
How to Spot a Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual
We have already established that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is a direct progeny of the premier watertight Rolex Oyster timepiece manufactured in 1926. Apart from being the world’s first patented waterproof watch, the Oyster Perpetual bears the brand’s founding legacy and carries the classic and timeless spirit of its era.
The Swiss Customs Service reported that approximately 40 million counterfeit watches are released into circulation each year, and we know that Rolex watches make up the highest numbers there.
Today, with technological advancements, counterfeit Oyster Perpetual watches are looking so good and so close to the original that identifying an authentic one is quite a challenge. But there is always a way out. To help you distinguish between a fake and a real Rolex Oyster Perpetual, we have put together this detailed list of 10 factors below.
Watch Price
The Oyster Perpetual is one of the brand’s long-established models, and the brand seems to be constantly increasing the price as the months roll by. But, at the time of writing this article, the retail price for the smallest model of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual starts at $5,500 and increases with size.
The new 2020 update introduced the Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm sizes with enchanting stand-out colorful dials that increased the appeal for Oyster Perpetual watches.
The price of a new Oyster Perpetual 41mm model, which is powered by Rolex’s new-generation Caliber 3230 movement, is $6,400 on the brand’s website at the moment.
However, new Rolex watches can be hard to find as the brand does not sell anything online, so to purchase one, you will have to get on the waitlist of any of Rolex’s 1816 authorized retailers around the world. This can sometimes be hard for prospective buyers without an established relationship with an authorized distributor, which leads people to the gray market.
On the secondary market, Oyster Perpetual watches command higher prices. Expect to spend around $10,000 for the 41mm Ref. 124300 (or even up to $30,000 for the coveted Tiffany dial) and around $8,000 for the 36mm Ref. 126000.
It is good to be guided by these facts because while everyone loves a great discount, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a really low price might indicate more risk than reward.
A deep discount for such an in-demand timepiece like the Oyster Perpetual is a red flag. Period. It doesn’t matter if the vintage market is highly reputable because there are many scammers out there who sell items through trustworthy marketplace websites with great reviews too.
If the price of the Oyster Perpetual is too good to be true, it probably is. If the low prices are so stunning that it isn’t available anywhere else, then you should figure out quickly that there’s a good reason for that – the watch is not real.
Unless you are buying from an authorized dealer, be suspicious of stores offering highly discounted Oyster Perpetual watches because there’s a good chance you’d wind up paying for a counterfeit timepiece or get absolutely nothing in return.
Serial and Reference Number
Every Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch comes with a distinctive serial number. The serial number or unique identifier can be found engraved between the watch casing lugs, under the bracelet, situated at 6 o’clock, and is equally listed on the papers (or certificate) from Rolex.
Each number corresponds to a particular year or period in which the watch was manufactured, giving you valuable knowledge on craftsmanship, authenticity, and even cult status.
Also called the model number, the reference number of your Rolex watch is a 4 – 6 digit code engraved by Rolex in every single timepiece. You can usually find it on your Oyster Perpetual between the lugs on the side of the case at the 12 o’clock position, between the bracelet.
The Rolex reference number is equally listed on the papers from Rolex and provides useful information about the model or collection. It also tells you what material your watch is made from. Generally, the first two to four digits tell us the model or collection (i.e. whether it is an Oyster Perpetual collection, a Submariner, Sea-Dweller, or GMT-Master).
Depending on the digits in the mix, you will be able to identify whether your Rolex watch is made of stainless steel, Everose Rolesor (a combination of stainless steel and Everose gold), Rolesium (a melange of stainless steel and platinum) or 18K Yellow/White gold. It’s best not to rely on the image alone to ascertain the watches’ inherent value.
The reference number also determines the bezel type, whether it is engraved, engine-turned, fluted, totable, or hand-crafted. A fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch will feature a misplaced serial number or a reference number that does not match the design, materials, and model or the production year of the watch.
Again many counterfeit Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches do not have their serial or reference numbers engraved on them. Rolex has been engraving these unique numbers on their watches since the 1920s, and they always engrave them deeply into the metal. Replicas often inscribe serial numbers with acid.
Case Finishing
The devil is in the details, they say, and we know very well that it is the tiny details that make or mar the entire timepiece at the end of the day.
The finishing of the case of any watch is a major determinant of how the overall look, feel, and design will be. The finish of a case is a manufacturing process in which the surface is manipulated by polishing, brushing, and/or beveling to render an attractive surface appearance to the metal.
The price of a watch can even be justified or criticized based on the quality of the case finishing so this is a very important point. As expected from an ultra high-end brand like Rolex with over 100 years of high precision manufacturing techniques, the case always displays a superlative artisanal hand finishing capacity.
Every Rolex Oyster Perpetual receives an initial polish from a machine, but after that, it is finished and polished by hand. The finishing is often perfect, and there has never been a report of visible imperfections.
To identify a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual, examine the case closely for a high level of finishing. There should be fine details that give the case a sharp, elegant appearance. A finely polished case reflects light beautifully offering the watch a luxurious and sophisticated look.
Apart from polishing, brushed finishes are also commonly used. Straight grain and circular grain brushing are used on the more circular parts of the case, such as the case back, and the Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126000 perfectly illustrates this with a fine circular grain under the lugs and around the case back.
The case of a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual will display a very shallow level of brushing that will allow the polished surface to shine through (brushing is usually done after polishing). The lines of the case will also appear soft, dull, and smoothed over rather than crisp, sharp and reflective, and smooth as possible.
You may also notice that the hairlines don’t appear uniformly parallel, the brushing of the top and side of the case sort of ‘leaks’ into the chamfer, and the surface of the hairline finish doesn’t have a grippy surface or isn’t pronounced.
Any sign of imperfection or flaw in the finishing of the case is not something you should overlook, as it might be a fake watch.
Crown
Laser-etched Crown
Rolex is no stranger to replicas. The brand knows that many of its iconic models have been imitated by counterfeiters and is doing all it can to put an end to this. In 2002, a minuscule detail was introduced as an additional security feature to checkmate the illegal act.
Rolex decided to engrave a crown on the sapphire glass. The laser-etched crown is so small that it cannot be seen with the naked eye. Technically, the crown is not engraved or etched on top of the protective sapphire glass but inside it.
The easiest way to check if your Oyster Perpetual watch has this crown is to shine a flashlight at an angle on the sapphire glass. While the light is on it, take a look at the glass from the opposite end. The crown is located at the 6 o’clock position on the sapphire glass and is identical to the Rolex coronet logo, but this one features a laser-etched ‘S’ for service within.
Even though it’s incredibly difficult to replicate since the crown is embedded within the sapphire glass, fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches also come with counterfeit laser-etched crowns, so don’t assume you’re safe just yet if you spot a watch with one.
Coronet Logo
Another red flag is a misplaced or missing crown logo. The notable Rolex coronet logo is a majestic five-point crown found on every dial of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. It is typically placed at 12 o’clock, below the sizable triangular dial marker.
Screw-down Crown
The crown of your Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the tiny knob located at 3 o’clock. It is an important component that allows you to control the movement of the watch and adjust the time settings.
A genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual uses a screw-down Twinlock winding crown equipped with a double waterproof system. All contemporary Rolex watches have the coronet on the crown, and so does the Oyster Perpetual.
The Triplock crown of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is marked with a little dash underneath it. Sometimes it is protected by an integral crown guard, like in the case of the Oyster Perpetual Air-King, but smaller models like the Oyster Perpetual 36mm do not have a crown guard.
Viewing a fake and original crown guard side by side reveals that the counterfeit ones always have a more pointed appearance when compared to the genuine crown guards.
Watch Weight
The weight of a genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch varies and differs from model to model, but if you have access to a scale, the weight is often between 100 and 160 grams for the Oystersteel models.
When Rolex combines materials for the watch and uses a mix like Rolesor, which has a mileage of gold and Oyster Steel, or gold, the weight will be affected significantly and will fall between 200 to 270 grams.
That said, a real Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch will always have some weight and even feel slightly heavier than it looks. A large number of watches in the Oyster Perpetual collection are crafted with Oystersteel, which is a steel alloy specific to Rolex.
The quality is way higher than 316L stainless steel as it belongs to the 904L steel family. As a result, it feels heavier and sturdier than regular watches. Of course, the silver and gold models are even heavier than Oystersteel, so be sure to check the weight of your Oyster Perpetual watch before buying it.
A watch that feels feather-light is made with inferior materials. If your Rolex watch doesn’t have the expected heft, you are probably dealing with a counterfeit.
Dial
The dial is essentially the face of the watch and is the first thing people notice because it acts as a background and carries certain indications, such as the hour markers and handset. It is one of the most important features of a watch because, apart from its time-telling function, it sets the tone for our reaction to the entire timepiece.
If you have been lucky enough to hold many Rolex watches in your hands, your eyes would have developed to the point where you can have an instinctive feeling about what is right and what is not.
Like every other component, the dial of the Oyster Perpetual watch is crafted entirely in-house to the highest standards. High-tech machinery and traditional techniques by hand are used to meticulously place every detail to the utmost precision and in perfect alignment.
The dial of the Oyster Perpetual generally features a solid dial color with a fine combination of circular, triangular, or rectangular lume-filled hour markers.
At the moment, there are many available dial colors in the Oyster Perpetual collection, including turquoise blue, green, candy pink, bright blue, silver, bright black, and the latest addition, a Celebration motif featuring multi-colored bubbles on a turquoise backdrop.
The majority of these dials feature a sunray pattern (etched super fine lines) that radiates out from the center while others have a glossy surface akin to the colorful lacquer ‘Stella’ dials.
To identify a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, check the date aperture to see if the edges are wobbly, too small, or too large. Look out for small spelling mistakes, mismatched font style and size, awkward spacing of features, crooked or misplaced text, and misaligned hour and minute markers.
The Cyclops glass at 3 o’clock is made to magnify the date underneath by 2.5x legibility, and the date is instantaneous, which means it automatically jumps to the next date at midnight. Again the Cyclops glass is never flat. Never. It always protrudes like a bubble slightly above the sapphire glass. Whatever appears to be substandard or aesthetically off is worthy of closer inspection.
Hands & Indices
The hands and indices of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch are always sharply finished. Even though the configuration of the hour markers might differ between the 36mm and 41mm models when compared with their smaller siblings, they are always refined.
Check for hour markers that are not perfectly refined or are unsymmetrical with a visibly cheaper quality. Often the smaller models come with a single luminous baton positioned at each marker except for the 12 o’clock marker.
The larger models, on the other hand, feature double baton markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions for enhanced legibility. Rolex uses a special kind of lume (Chromalight) on the dials of certain watches, which has an afterglow that lasts longer in the dark than Super-LumiNova.
The finishing of the hands should also be superlative. The ticking of the second hand is another important indication that helps you identify a fake Oyster Perpetual. A real Rolex watch should have a second hand that just sweeps smoothly across the dial without pausing to mark each second.
If you hear that “tick, tick, tick” sound from the second hand, the watch is powered by a quartz movement and is fake.
Caseback
Another way to identify a counterfeit Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is by looking at the rear cover of the case. The caseback is what protects the interior components of the watch. Apart from the Sea-Dweller models, Rolex does not engrave words, numbers, or logos on the outside of their case backs at all.
The Sea-Dweller is the only known model to feature the words “Rolex Oyster Original Escape Valve” engraved in an arc-like manner on the back of the case.
If the caseback of a supposed Oyster Perpetual watch features engravings or is transparent and allows you to view the inner workings, then it is most likely a fake one.
Movement
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual uses a self-winding Perpetual movement. This means the watch is constantly wound by the wrist’s movement of the wearer. The in-house patented movement is certified as a chronometer by the COSC. The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is an organization that determines the accuracy and precision of high-end watches using several parameters.
Each of these movements is further scrutinized at Rolex’s laboratory for precision, rate stability, self-winding capabilities, and power reserve. A fake Rolex watch will most likely be powered by a quartz movement which will reflect in the motion of the second hand.
The high-quality movement in the Oyster Perpetual gives it a smooth and continuous sweep across the dial (about 28,800 per hour). Even though some fake Rolex watches come with Swiss-made movements, the second hand still jumps rather than sweeps. If it sweeps, however, your best bet is to take a step further and investigate everything the movement inside the watch.
Unfortunately, this will mean opening the case back lock, and you need specific tools for this. Once inside, examine the finishing and look for an engraved ”Rolex” on the movement as some fake movements do not bother to include this detail. All the current models of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual use either the caliber 3230 or the smaller caliber 2232.
Bracelet
A real Oyster Perpetual bracelet feels robust, strong, solid, and well-built. Like the overall feel of the watch, a quality bracelet will have some weight to it because it is manufactured exclusively from superlative materials.
Any visible difference in weight and quality is worthy of further investigation. The signature Oyster bracelet with the Rolex Glidelock extension system is a common feature on all Oyster Perpetual watches.
Ask and answer the following questions; Does the clasp snap open and shut easily? Is the entire bracelet incredibly engineered? What about the fit and feel? Again is the engraving on the bracelet well executed?
Why You Should Avoid Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watches
Back in April 2020, about 7000 counterfeit Rolex watches were crushed under the orders of federal authorities by a multi-ton double-drum vibrating roller in Philade
The gravity of the prevailing fake watch enterprise made Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) start up a publicity campaign with one message; “Fake Watches Are For Fake People.”
Joining the waiting list for a Rolex Oyster Perpetual can feel like waiting for a shooting star, so most people take the shortcut and opt for fakes instead. However, here are five reasons why rocking a fake watch is a terrible idea.
Poor Quality and Performance: Original luxury watches are meticulously crafted using high-quality materials and undergo rigorous testing to ensure optimal performance. Conversely, we can’t say the same for fake watches.
Legal and Ethical Implications: buying and wearing fake luxury watches in some parts of the US, France, and China is an outright offense. Customs agents will seize them and bag you hefty fines and, in worse cases, enough time behind bars.
Limited Lifespan: Real luxury watches are built to last for decades, with models like Oyster Perpetual emphasizing longevity. In contrast, fake watches have short lifespans and quickly get worse with time.
Reputation and Resale Value: We can’t say this enough, but wearing a fake watch can make you look ‘dumb’ among people who know the original, instantly tarnishing your reputation and credibility.
Impact on the Luxury Watch Industry: Lastly, you’re hurting the original brand that produces the timepiece by wearing a fake luxury watch. It also means you’re encouraging the fraud behind it.
lphia. This act was carried out in front of press cameras to send a strong message to would-be counterfeiters and their prospective buyers. The offender was also sent to jail.
In March 2023, a music manager, Emmanuel Odunlami, was stabbed to death in the UK over a fake luxury watch worth over $300,000. Fake watches abound to gratify the desires of people who cannot access the real deal but still want to portray the same status and prestige associated with ultra-high-end brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe.
People also opt for fake watches to pose an air of superiority to uninformed people of low status. However, fake watches are illegal. Unlawfully copying the name, logo, and other trademarked elements of a brand to design a replica aesthetically is a crime.
How to Ensure You Buy a Real Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Spotting a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch can be tough but not impossible. That said, you can take responsibility and do something about it. Here are five tips to help you get the real deal.
Do Your Research
To ensure you get the real Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, you need to take some time to properly research the product before you buy it. The web is one of the best resources out there to help you out, especially if you have not yet seen the model you want up close.
Read through blogs and forums about the Oyster Perpetual and learn first-hand from users about the watch model you want to buy. Post whatever questions you may have on social media and some collectors’ forums.
You could also ask your friends and family what they think about the retailer (if you hope to buy it from the grey market) and the product. Get the right information concerning the movement, bezel, dial, case, and bracelet to help you determine the authenticity of the watch before buying.
Always Buy from a Reputable Seller
There are a few ways to purchase a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. The first and most secure way will be to acquire one from an authorized Rolex retailer. There are 317 authorized dealers across the United States, meaning there is one in every city.
This way, a genuine Oyster Perpetual watch is guaranteed, and you get your product with a certificate of authenticity, a 5-year warranty that covers replacement parts and labor, complete papers, and everything there is.
Unfortunately, stores are regularly out of stock, so I can’t guarantee you’ll find one as soon as you hit the streets in search of it, as there might be a long waitlist for such a popular model. Your best bet will be to develop a relationship with your local Rolex boutique and also join their waiting list statistics by getting your name down.
The next place to find an Oyster Perpetual watch is in the thriving and rich secondary market, also called the grey market. This is where you’ll need to carefully examine and vet the timepiece before purchase to ensure authenticity and quality.
Reviews are among the top ways to figure out how safe a seller is, so carry out an extensive search on the reputation of the seller. As a general rule, retailers with a high number of feedback ratings and a positive feedback score of over 90% indicate that the seller is reputable.
A reputable dealer would have affiliations with respected watchmaking organizations, and it’s also worth checking social media channels to see if the retailer has a genuine following.
Ask For Photos And Documents
If you are getting your Oyster Perpetual from a brick-and-mortar store, there should be a showroom where you can inspect and physically try out the watch while being assisted by an expert.
But if you’re getting your luxury watch online, it is compulsory, very compulsory, to have images and details of the actual watch provided to you by the retailer. I say actual images because sometimes the retailer might have just factory images.
Most watch experts recommend completely servicing your Rolex every three to five years, so if you are getting a pre-owned Oyster Perpetual watch, ask the retailer whether the timepiece has been serviced and if any parts have been replaced. If it has been repaired previously, ask for the original pieces. Remember to request the paperwork or documents for the repairs during the buying process.
The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program allows people to purchase used Rolex watches from the crowned house with official dealers. Every timepiece obtained through this program is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity, the famous green seal, and a 2-year international warranty for pre-owned watches without papers.
For pre-owned watches from the grey market, ask for original boxes, papers, and sales receipts, as these all contribute to the provenance of a watch. However, the absence of these items does not mean the watch is fake. They only help in verifying the authenticity and legal ownership.
Do Not Buy On Impulse
Impulse purchases are triggered by an irresistible force to buy an item without fully evaluating its consequences. Retailers love impulsive shopping habits and will encourage prospective buyers to give in to an impulse buy.
This usually has a lot of disadvantages because it stems from our psychological weakness. First off, it could lead to many buying mistakes, including buying a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch.
It could also lead to financial strain, feelings of regret, and other negative outcomes. To avoid this, clarify your budget for the Oyster Perpetual watch and stick to it. Give the purchase time while you do proper research, and purchase it only when you’re in the right state of mind.
Get An Expert’s Opinion
Rolex experts have a deep knowledge of every aspect of the brand and the watches produced. Many true experts, like the seasoned team at Exquisite Timepieces, have developed the ability to identify an authentic Oyster Perpetual watch. They can also recognize its corresponding parts, such as the case, bracelet, dial, hands, and so forth, with several years of experience.
Conclusion
With all that being said, success procuring your Rolex Oyster Perpetual! Even though the astronomically high demand for it, which outstrips supply by far, might make buying an authentic one a daunting operation, the process is very rewarding and can also be a smart investment option depending on the model you opt for. Explore our iconic collection of pre-owned Rolex watches at Exquisite Timepieces.
A leather strap has primarily one function; to hold your timepiece securely around your wrist so that time can be discovered at a moment’s notice. Dubbed an “accessory within an accessory”, watches with leather straps go beyond serving as a utilitarian component to being a major decorative element.
Since the stone age, up until now, the use of leather has evolved but not its versatility in the fashion industry. From sandals to shoes and straps, fashion trends featuring leather will always be popular among men and women.
Durable, fashionable, and appealing, high-quality leather watches are prized jewels because the older they get, the stronger they become. But not all leather straps are made equally, and that’s where this article comes in. Strap in and buckle up because today, we shall be looking at the 15 best watches with leather straps!
The band of a timepiece is what makes the clock or watch, a wristwatch. Bands made from metals are referred to as bracelets, while those made from other materials, such as leather, rubber, etc, are collectively referred to as straps. Even though the star of the show is often the dial, the strap of a watch can either make or mar the entire look of the watch.
Leather straps have been used for decades and are the most desirable strap option. They are a timeless classic that has held their appeal since their first appearance in the horological world and are a favorite of many enthusiasts and collectors.
Apart from providing profound comfort to the wearer such that the watch does not hurt the wrist even in extreme conditions, they are versatile and alluring.
When purchasing a timepiece with a leather strap, you must take the brand into consideration, strap maker, and type of leather. The best leather quality is “full grain” leather.
This means the entire hide – with densely packed fibers – is used, making it extremely strong and able to withstand decades of use. Top grain leather is the 2nd highest grade, followed by genuine leather and bonded leather.
Apart from being of very high quality, a good leather strap must be able to maintain its suppleness and surface pattern throughout its lifetime. It must also be breathable, water resistant, malleable, and highly durable.
The History Of Leather Watch Straps
Leather watch straps were one of the first strap options for watches. The first instances date back to the late 19th century when “wristlets” were manufactured to strap the pocket watches of soldiers on their arms with leather.
The British soldiers fighting in the Burma and Boer wars needed all the hands they could get, and since pocket watches required a free hand, they had to innovate a way to tell time.
WW1 began in 1914, and rifling through pockets for a watch was not recommended in the crises of the trenches. It is even reported by the Times that the wearing of wristwatches by soldiers was made obligatory by the telephone and signal service two years into WW1.
Watch manufacturers quickly noted a rising demand for men’s wristwatches, particularly from soldiers, and in a short time, the production of watches with leather straps skyrocketed. These leather straps initially looked different from the ones we have today though.
They came with a sort of cup or open face to hold the pocket watch with loops of wire soldered onto the sides of the case to fasten the leather strap.
The war came and passed (and came to pass), but the core spirit of watches with leather straps is as intact today as it was after the world war.
Should You Buy A Watch With A Leather Strap?
A watch with a leather strap is an important part of the everyday carry world. Apart from being an accessory that illustrates both personal style and reliable utility, leather straps are hard to beat in versatility.
They look great with a suit on the red carpet and will steal the show at the gym even when you decide to lazy around on the couch. They come in countless sizes, textures, and colors, so they are best for generic circumstances in life, and everyone should have watches with leather straps in their collection.
However, they are situation-dependent, so you might want to try a suede strap for casual swimming and hanging out at the beach. That said, it’s best to avoid taking your leather strap where it might get wet. They pair with anything and have a bit of texture and visual interest that will fit into any style, especially formal situations.
When it comes to formality, the darker the strap, the more formal it is. Black is the smartest and most popular option, but you can mix and match dark browns, oxblood, or navy for something exotic and subtly different.
The 15 Best Watches with Leather Straps
1. Rolex Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52508-0006)
If there’s one word synonymous with exclusivity, extravagance, and luxury, it’s Rolex. The brand needs no introduction. It is the world’s most iconic and ultra-high-end company with decades of Haute Horlogerie prowess and technical know-how.
The Perpetual 1908 Ref. 52508-0006 is one of the most significant debuts from the world-famous watchmaker in recent years that exudes quality and nobility. The Swiss Marque prides itself on its commitment to delivering highly distinctive and excellent watches, and this timepiece is a fine example of the brand’s horological brilliance.
The understated watch is presented in a striking 39mm case in 18 ct yellow gold with short fine lugs and a thin profile of 9.50mm. There’s a domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial and another crystal on the case back. Finally, Rolex shows off its movement!
The design of the dial is balanced, straightforward, and elegant, with a glossy, lacquered-like finish that evokes the flawless gilt dials of vintage watches. The white dial is highly legible with black printed railroad tracks for the minutes and seconds and applied Arabic numerals for hours at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock.
The alligator leather strap wears like a charm and is fitted with a nouvelle folding clasp, “Dual clasp”. This feature ensures the watch always sits in the center of your wrist.
2. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227G)
Patek Philippe is another Haute Horlogerie brand that needs no introduction. The Genevan watch manufacturer is one of the best luxury watch brands with impeccable credentials and a rich history of horological experience.
The Calatrava is the flagship model of Patek Philippe, with a lineup of highly coveted and quintessential classic dress watches. The Ref. 5227G-010 is simply an icon done the Patek Philippe way with an undeniable charm.
Elegant, understated, yet typical Patek Philippe, the watch exudes luxury. It is presented on a 39mm white gold case with flawlessly curved flutes which emanate from the caseband and taper gently towards the lugs. The polished lugs are short, allowing the black leather strap to cuddle and encircle the wrist in a comfortable embrace.
The handmade crocodile strap tapers nicely towards the white gold clasp and has a handsome matte finish and subtle texture that reeks of prestige and nobility while allowing the watch to remain the star of the show.
The black dial provides an excellent canvas on which the white gold dauphine-shaped hands graciously proclaim the hours and minutes with clear precision. The highly coveted timepiece is simply an example of horological brilliance.
3. Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day-Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)
When a watch enthusiast mentions the ‘Holy Trinity’ of Swiss watchmaking, everyone already knows who he is referring to. But if you don’t, the Holy Trinity of Swiss watchmaking is made up of 3 ultra-high-end brands. These are Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, with an unmatched legacy of greatness.
Vacheron Constantin was founded in Geneva in 1755 and has remained an indisputable luxury watch brand with avant-garde horological timepieces. The FiftySix Day-Date Ref. 4400E/000A-B437 is a charming synthesis of evocative vintage vibes and contemporary exclusivity.
The watch is a modern interpretation of a legendary model from 1956 and is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm across. The ‘edgy’ design of the case is mesmerizing, with sharp portions between the round bezel and the lugs inspired by the sides of the Maltese cross.
The dial has a sort of ‘retro science lab’ look, evocative of the 1950s, with two horizontally aligned sub-dials at 9 and 3 o’clock denoting the day of the week and the date, respectively.
The watch is mounted on a dark grey alligator leather strap with a calf inner shell. The calf inner lining on the leather strap keeps you feeling warm and cozy but goes further to prevent damage from moisture and sweat.
4. Panerai Luminor Base Logo (ref. PAM01086)
Panerai is an Italian luxury watch manufacturer founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai. The brand has a solid reputation for manufacturing some of the most reliable and groundbreaking innovations, such as the Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech, unveiled at SIHH in 2017. Many of the designs from the high-end watchmaker are breathtaking, and the Ref. PAM01086 is one such with an unusual crown cover.
The watch is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 44mm in diameter and has a height of 13.5mm. The unusual crown cover is simply a crown guard patented in 1955 by Panerai.
The watch is certainly for larger wrists but has a subtle cushion shape and a small lug-to-lug distance of 49.5 mm, making it wear more comfortably than its dimensions suggest. The dial is classical, balanced, elegant, and discreet, with nothing extravagant or particularly alluring.
The hands and indexes have a generous application of high-quality SuperLuminova C3, so legibility is excellent. But the leather strap… how very aesthetically pleasing it is! The handmade dyed beige strap is made from natural leather and features cream-colored stitching and calfskin lining.
5. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503608)
Famed for pioneering the use of ceramic and titanium in watchmaking, IWC is a highly respected brand best known for its luxury aviation watches. Apart from being a leader in the production of complicated and ultra-high-end watches, the Swiss Marque has been standing since 1868.
This Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar flaunts the giant watchmaker’s mechanical prowess in a big, bold, and GREEN timepiece! The watch is presented in a large stainless steel case that measures 46.2 mm in diameter, so yeah, it was intended for larger wrists only. I can’t even imagine this watch on a 15 cm wrist!
The watch further adheres to the “Big Pilot’s Formula” with a thickness of 15.4mm. The brushed case also has a knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown and a screwed case back that keeps it water-resistant to 60 meters.
The dark green dial has a sunray-brushed effect and features 4 subdials at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock for the moon phase, date and power reserve, month, weekday, and small seconds. The green leather strap is sleek, refined, and fashionable with steel rivets, a folding clasp, and IWC’s practical EasX-CHANGE system.
Omega is a brand that has consistently demonstrated excellence in all its inventions. While the luxury watch brand is proud of its rich history and strong ethos, the company is also innovative and employs avant-garde technicalities and machinery.
The Globemaster is one of those cutting-edge inventions that can confidently stand toe-to-toe with its Rolex equivalent. The watch is inspired by the legendary Constellation timepieces of the 1950s and 1960s and is powered by one of the most technically advanced movements from Omega.
The Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8900 is a revolutionary anti-magnetic movement tuned to stringent chronometer standards making this timepiece synonymous with excellent performance.
The breathtaking sun-brushed blue dial is an evocation of the pie-pan dials of the vintage Constellations from the 1950s and features a simple date window at 6 o’clock. The blue handmade leather strap has a distinctly luxurious feel and is crafted from crocodile skin.
The high-quality strap is fully grained, which means it will last long and withstand wear and tear without losing its sheen and luster. You can get this icon right here.
When in 1735 Jehan-Jacques Blancpain started making watches in a small workshop on the upper floor of his house at Villeret, he planted the seeds of a horological empire that would defy easy categorization and labels.
Famous for its Fifty-Fathoms watch, the Swiss brand has continued to remain at the top board of Haute Horology thanks to its numerous high complication and iconic watches.
First launched in the 1950s, the Air Command is one of the highly coveted flagship models with pleasing aesthetics and top-notch technicality. The watch is presented on a 42.5 mm titanium case with a bidirectional titanium bezel with a blue ceramic insert. The case features alternating brushed and polished surfaces, giving it a rather sporty look.
The flawless deep blue dial beams brilliantly and just gives off a futuristic look that is reinforced by the sunray-brushed surface. The highly legible dial features snailed chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock and a tachymeter scale on the outer edge.
The calfskin strap comes in a matching blue color and has been finely waxed, giving it a vintage and streaked lightning effect. Get this icon right here.
8. Breguet Classique (ref. 5177BB/12/9V6)
Famous for revolutionizing watchmaking by inventing the tourbillon in 1801, Breguet is one of the oldest surviving watchmakers with an exceptional standard of horological prowess. The Classique 5177BB/12/9V6 is an exquisite, ultra-high-end creation inspired by 19th-century pocket watches from Breguet.
The watch is presented on a flawlessly polished 18kt white gold case that measures 38mm by 8.8mm. Among other things, it is the true rebirth of a classic with long, narrow lugs that makes it wear slightly larger than its dimensions indicate.
Since many of the design details are derived from vintage pocket watches, the dial is traditionally styled but this time with a contemporary twist. The exquisite guilloche textured dial comes on a silvered 18kt gold plate and has been engraved with an intricate “pannier” weave pattern that is both charming and evocative of the good old times.
It features blued “Breguet” style hands and a fine hour and minute chapter ring with black Roman numeral hour markers & dot minute markers. The strap of the watch is a solid black alligator/crocodile leather with a tang buckle.
The band features an elementary design that shows off the natural characteristics of the leather superlatively. Check it out and get it here.
9. Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 517.CX.0710.LR)
Hublot (French for “bullseye” or “porthole”) was founded in 1980 by Italian Carlo Crocco in Switzerland. From the onset, Mr. Carlo aimed to produce eccentric watches with groundbreaking technology that would command the attention of the Horological world.
The brand’s obsession with unusual materials in the making of timepieces made them bold enough to combine gold and rubber in the same watch for the first time in history. The Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic is one of those eccentric innovations that elegantly display the technical craftsmanship of the brand.
The watch is presented on a 45mm satin-finished and polished black ceramic case with contemporary aesthetics. Elegance rules supreme with the sapphire skeletonized dial of the Ref. 517.CX.0710.LR just creates a mystical and bewitching atmosphere unique to the wearer.
The watch also features a splendid moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock and is powered by a self-winding moon phase movement, the HUB1131, with a power reserve of 42 hours. The black alligator leather strap (the most luxurious and durable of all Crocodilians) is flexible, hypoallergenic, and significantly superior in quality. Get this flawless beast right here.
Grand Seiko is the premium sibling (and luxury arm) of Seiko that produces elegant watches with exclusive movements and the highest-grade materials. The SBGY007 is a timepiece that reinstates the brand’s desire to propagate rich and exciting Japanese traditions in a contemporary package.
The watch is presented in a mirror-polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 38.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.2mm. The lug-to-lug width is 43.7mm, and you’ll be pleased to discover how beautifully the lugs curve to embrace your wrist.
The dial is simple, clean, and understated with a wave ripple-like texture produced by hammering a mold with different types of hammers. Under the hood, the 9R31 movement, accurate to +/-1 second per day, provides a power reserve of 72 hours.
The watch is mounted on black crocodile leather fastened by a threefold clasp with push button release. The leather is solid and possesses a one-of-a-kind appearance. It also features the brand’s embossed logo on the underside. Check it out here.
The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC is an elegant mechanical watch equipped with the new caliber 473. The Caliber 473 is a robust and reliable movement with a five-day power reserve and a 10-year warranty.
The movement was built and designed from the ground up by Oris, and the Hölstein-based watch manufacturer reports that it took four years to create it. Like the caliber 400 series, it is accurate to within -3/+5 seconds a day. Functions of the movement include powering the hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator, and pointer date.
The dial of the watch is captivating and features a peculiar blue shade that resembles the water’s surface. It is adorned with Arabic numerals and a red arrow-shaped pointer that indicates the date on the periphery. There is a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock also.
The watch is presented on a textured brown strap made from sustainably sourced deer leather. Deer leather is one of the softest leather options on the market that is loved for its supple thinness and breathability. The strap also features a sophisticated butterfly folding clasp with a seamless adjustment system.
12. Longines Spirit 37mm (ref. L3.410.4.53.0)
Longines is a Swiss brand with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry. The prestigious watchmaker has been in business since 1832 and is famous for creating the first Chronograph movement, ‘the 13.33Z’.
The Longines Spirit is a vintage-inspired collection with contemporary aesthetic and technical features that pays tribute to the brand’s past. The collection has a lineup of elegant watches, all paying homage to the exceptional men and women who, by a display of courage, left their mark on history, particularly in the aviation sector.
The Ref. L3.410.4.53.0 is presented on a 37mm stainless steel case that is highly advertised as a women’s alternative on the brand’s website but could be worn by men as well. The case has a height of 11.7mm and is finely executed with high-quality finishings on the top, mid-case, and periphery of the bezel.
The sunray-brushed blue dial is also excellently designed with sharp, luminous Arabic numerals. The blue calf leather strap is elegant, discreet, and slightly vintage, with contrasting topstitching that perfectly compliments the dial.
13. NOMOS Club Campus 38 Cream Coral (ref. 725)
NOMOS is a young independent watch brand founded by Roland Schwertner in 1990. The Glashütte-based watch manufacturer is famous for its clean and modernist aesthetic designs and is also the largest manufacturer of mechanical watches in Germany.
The Club Campus 38 Cream Coral is a lighthearted spirit watch that is just as refreshing as it is enthralling. The watch is youthful, free, and uncomplicated and is presented on a 38 × 8.5mm stainless steel case with a closed back and 100 meters of water resistance. The cream coral dial delivers a nice dose of fun and is adorned with a fine combination of Roman and Arabic numerals.
The hands and hour markers have white luminous inserts to keep the watch highly legible in low-light conditions. The movement underneath the hood is NOMOS’s hand-wound Alpha caliber with 43 hours of power reserve when fully wound. The watch is worn on a velour leather gray strap that has a unique velvety feeling. It is also extremely robust and breathable.
The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a vintage-inspired reissue of a 1968 signature piece that offers a sporty but classic look. The Swiss watch brand was founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, in 1892 and is famous for producing beautifully designed and highly precise timepieces.
The Ref. H38416711 comes in a fully polished 316L stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and 14.45mm in height. Flanking a large, signed crown at 3 o’clock are two oversized pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, giving the timepiece a unique retro vibe.
The panda dial features two snail-patterned subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The one is a small seconds counter, while that on the right is a 30-minute counter. The watch is fitted with a comfortable 20mm black calf leather strap with matching stitching and a stainless steel folding clasp buckle.
Calfskin leather is a fantastic choice because it is lighter weight and more supple than the ones derived from older cows. Check it out here.
15. Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121
The first Seiko Alpinist, the Laurel Alpinist, was released in 1959. The watch was originally intended for mountain men who needed a reliable watch that could put up with the rugged terrains without sacrificing accuracy.
The Alpinist has evolved but remains one of the greatest legends produced by Seiko that is appreciated by thousands of watch enthusiasts across the globe. The Ref. SPB121 is a modern reinterpretation of the 1959 model and features a balanced mix of vintage and modern-day elements.
Measuring a fitting 39.5mm by 13.2mm, the brushed stainless steel case has a polished bezel and is topped with an AR-coated sapphire crystal. The olive-black dial features a beautiful sunray pattern with a gilded internal rotating compass track on the perimeter.
The watch comes mounted on a luxurious brown strap, crafted from premium quality crocodile embossed calf leather. The strap has a waxed finish with a brown matching stitch and a steel button deployment safety clasp. Get it here.
Even if you’re familiar with the brand name, there’s a chance you might have missed out on the beauty of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier. To be honest, even though Cartier isn’t high on my list, this is a fantastic timepiece with a reliable leather band.
This includes a 40mm steel case and a Roman numeral dial with convex curves that look great from every angle. I’m a big fan of mechanical features, which is why I have to mention the watch’s 1847 MIC Caliber movement. It features seamless automatic winding, and the blue steel sword-shaped hands are a sight to see for anyone.
When I’m wearing the watch, I find myself appreciating the durability of the watch band, as you can feel it to the touch. Not only will it hold up in the long term, but it will also look and feel beautiful on all sides.
I consider this watch a great choice for everyday wear and a luxurious choice that might as well be a family heirloom. Cartier never disappoints, and the multi-layered quality in this watch isn’t hard to see from my standpoint.
Conclusion
Leather straps have undergone many changes since their first appearance when pocket watches moved onto men’s wrists, but not their peerless elegance and sophistication.
The legacy of leather straps continues onward, and today, many designers and watchmakers create very high-quality leather straps in a wide variety of styles and price points. That said, if you haven’t added a watch with a leather strap to your collection, remember it’s a necessity, and the clock is ticking.
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