Samar, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 7 of 10

Author: Samar

A leather strap has primarily one function; to hold your timepiece securely around your wrist so that time can be discovered at a moment’s notice. Dubbed an “accessory within an accessory”, watches with leather straps go beyond serving as a utilitarian component to being a major decorative element.

Since the stone age, up until now, the use of leather has evolved but not its versatility in the fashion industry. From sandals to shoes and straps, fashion trends featuring leather will always be popular among men and women.

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Durable, fashionable, and appealing, high-quality leather watches are prized jewels because the older they get, the stronger they become. But not all leather straps are made equally, and that’s where this article comes in. Strap in and buckle up because today, we shall be looking at the 15 best watches with leather straps! 

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Blancpain

Air Command AC02 12B40 63B

  • Titanium
  • Automatic
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Cartier

WGBB0023 Ballon Bleu

  • Polished 18kt yellow gold case
  • Automatic
  • 42mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Blancpain

Air Command AC02 12B40 63B

  • Titanium
  • Automatic
  • 42.50mm

About Watches with Leather Straps

The band of a timepiece is what makes the clock or watch, a wristwatch. Bands made from metals are referred to as bracelets, while those made from other materials, such as leather, rubber, etc, are collectively referred to as straps. Even though the star of the show is often the dial, the strap of a watch can either make or mar the entire look of the watch. 

Leather straps have been used for decades and are the most desirable strap option. They are a timeless classic that has held their appeal since their first appearance in the horological world and are a favorite of many enthusiasts and collectors. 

Apart from providing profound comfort to the wearer such that the watch does not hurt the wrist even in extreme conditions, they are versatile and alluring.

When purchasing a timepiece with a leather strap, you must take the brand into consideration, strap maker, and type of leather. The best leather quality is “full grain” leather. 

This means the entire hide – with densely packed fibers – is used, making it extremely strong and able to withstand decades of use. Top grain leather is the 2nd highest grade, followed by genuine leather and bonded leather.

Apart from being of very high quality, a good leather strap must be able to maintain its suppleness and surface pattern throughout its lifetime. It must also be breathable, water resistant, malleable, and highly durable.

The History Of Leather Watch Straps

Leather watch straps were one of the first strap options for watches. The first instances date back to the late 19th century when “wristlets” were manufactured to strap the pocket watches of soldiers on their arms with leather.

The British soldiers fighting in the Burma and Boer wars needed all the hands they could get, and since pocket watches required a free hand, they had to innovate a way to tell time.

WW1 began in 1914, and rifling through pockets for a watch was not recommended in the crises of the trenches. It is even reported by the Times that the wearing of wristwatches by soldiers was made obligatory by the telephone and signal service two years into WW1.

Watch manufacturers quickly noted a rising demand for men’s wristwatches, particularly from soldiers, and in a short time, the production of watches with leather straps skyrocketed. These leather straps initially looked different from the ones we have today though. 

They came with a sort of cup or open face to hold the pocket watch with loops of wire soldered onto the sides of the case to fasten the leather strap.

The war came and passed (and came to pass), but the core spirit of watches with leather straps is as intact today as it was after the world war.

Should You Buy A Watch With A Leather Strap?

A watch with a leather strap is an important part of the everyday carry world. Apart from being an accessory that illustrates both personal style and reliable utility, leather straps are hard to beat in versatility.

They look great with a suit on the red carpet and will steal the show at the gym even when you decide to lazy around on the couch. They come in countless sizes, textures, and colors, so they are best for generic circumstances in life, and everyone should have watches with leather straps in their collection.

However, they are situation-dependent, so you might want to try a suede strap for casual swimming and hanging out at the beach. That said, it’s best to avoid taking your leather strap where it might get wet. They pair with anything and have a bit of texture and visual interest that will fit into any style, especially formal situations.

When it comes to formality, the darker the strap, the more formal it is. Black is the smartest and most popular option, but you can mix and match dark browns, oxblood, or navy for something exotic and subtly different.

The 15 Best Watches with Leather Straps

1. Rolex Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52508-0006)

Rolex Perpetual 1908 (ref. 52508-0006)

If there’s one word synonymous with exclusivity, extravagance, and luxury, it’s Rolex. The brand needs no introduction. It is the world’s most iconic and ultra-high-end company with decades of Haute Horlogerie prowess and technical know-how.

The Perpetual 1908 Ref. 52508-0006 is one of the most significant debuts from the world-famous watchmaker in recent years that exudes quality and nobility. The Swiss Marque prides itself on its commitment to delivering highly distinctive and excellent watches, and this timepiece is a fine example of the brand’s horological brilliance. 

The understated watch is presented in a striking 39mm case in 18 ct yellow gold with short fine lugs and a thin profile of 9.50mm. There’s a domed sapphire crystal protecting the dial and another crystal on the case back. Finally, Rolex shows off its movement!

The design of the dial is balanced, straightforward, and elegant, with a glossy, lacquered-like finish that evokes the flawless gilt dials of vintage watches. The white dial is highly legible with black printed railroad tracks for the minutes and seconds and applied Arabic numerals for hours at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock.

The alligator leather strap wears like a charm and is fitted with a nouvelle folding clasp, “Dual clasp”. This feature ensures the watch always sits in the center of your wrist.

2. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227G)

Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227G)

Patek Philippe is another Haute Horlogerie brand that needs no introduction. The Genevan watch manufacturer is one of the best luxury watch brands with impeccable credentials and a rich history of horological experience.

The Calatrava is the flagship model of Patek Philippe, with a lineup of highly coveted and quintessential classic dress watches. The Ref. 5227G-010 is simply an icon done the Patek Philippe way with an undeniable charm.

Elegant, understated, yet typical Patek Philippe, the watch exudes luxury. It is presented on a 39mm white gold case with flawlessly curved flutes which emanate from the caseband and taper gently towards the lugs. The polished lugs are short, allowing the black leather strap to cuddle and encircle the wrist in a comfortable embrace.

The handmade crocodile strap tapers nicely towards the white gold clasp and has a handsome matte finish and subtle texture that reeks of prestige and nobility while allowing the watch to remain the star of the show.

The black dial provides an excellent canvas on which the white gold dauphine-shaped hands graciously proclaim the hours and minutes with clear precision. The highly coveted timepiece is simply an example of horological brilliance. 

3. Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day-Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day-Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)

When a watch enthusiast mentions the ‘Holy Trinity’ of Swiss watchmaking, everyone already knows who he is referring to. But if you don’t, the Holy Trinity of Swiss watchmaking is made up of 3 ultra-high-end brands. These are Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin, with an unmatched legacy of greatness. 

Vacheron Constantin was founded in Geneva in 1755 and has remained an indisputable luxury watch brand with avant-garde horological timepieces. The FiftySix Day-Date Ref. 4400E/000A-B437 is a charming synthesis of evocative vintage vibes and contemporary exclusivity.

The watch is a modern interpretation of a legendary model from 1956 and is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 40mm across. The ‘edgy’ design of the case is mesmerizing, with sharp portions between the round bezel and the lugs inspired by the sides of the Maltese cross. 

The dial has a sort of ‘retro science lab’ look, evocative of the 1950s, with two horizontally aligned sub-dials at 9 and 3 o’clock denoting the day of the week and the date, respectively.

The watch is mounted on a dark grey alligator leather strap with a calf inner shell. The calf inner lining on the leather strap keeps you feeling warm and cozy but goes further to prevent damage from moisture and sweat.

4. Panerai Luminor Base Logo (ref. PAM01086)

Panerai Luminor Base Logo (ref. PAM01086)

Panerai is an Italian luxury watch manufacturer founded in 1860 by Giovanni Panerai. The brand has a solid reputation for manufacturing some of the most reliable and groundbreaking innovations, such as the Lab-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech, unveiled at SIHH in 2017. Many of the designs from the high-end watchmaker are breathtaking, and the Ref. PAM01086 is one such with an unusual crown cover.

The watch is presented on a stainless steel case that measures 44mm in diameter and has a height of 13.5mm. The unusual crown cover is simply a crown guard patented in 1955 by Panerai.

The watch is certainly for larger wrists but has a subtle cushion shape and a small lug-to-lug distance of 49.5 mm, making it wear more comfortably than its dimensions suggest. The dial is classical, balanced, elegant, and discreet, with nothing extravagant or particularly alluring.

The hands and indexes have a generous application of high-quality SuperLuminova C3, so legibility is excellent. But the leather strap… how very aesthetically pleasing it is! The handmade dyed beige strap is made from natural leather and features cream-colored stitching and calfskin lining.

5. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503608)

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503608)

Famed for pioneering the use of ceramic and titanium in watchmaking, IWC is a highly respected brand best known for its luxury aviation watches. Apart from being a leader in the production of complicated and ultra-high-end watches, the Swiss Marque has been standing since 1868. 

This Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar flaunts the giant watchmaker’s mechanical prowess in a big, bold, and GREEN timepiece! The watch is presented in a large stainless steel case that measures 46.2 mm in diameter, so yeah, it was intended for larger wrists only. I can’t even imagine this watch on a 15 cm wrist!

The watch further adheres to the “Big Pilot’s Formula” with a thickness of 15.4mm. The brushed case also has a knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown and a screwed case back that keeps it water-resistant to 60 meters.

The dark green dial has a sunray-brushed effect and features 4 subdials at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock for the moon phase, date and power reserve, month, weekday, and small seconds. The green leather strap is sleek, refined, and fashionable with steel rivets, a folding clasp, and IWC’s practical EasX-CHANGE system.

6. Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.33.39.21.03.001)

Omega is a brand that has consistently demonstrated excellence in all its inventions. While the luxury watch brand is proud of its rich history and strong ethos, the company is also innovative and employs avant-garde technicalities and machinery.

The Globemaster is one of those cutting-edge inventions that can confidently stand toe-to-toe with its Rolex equivalent. The watch is inspired by the legendary Constellation timepieces of the 1950s and 1960s and is powered by one of the most technically advanced movements from Omega. 

The Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8900 is a revolutionary anti-magnetic movement tuned to stringent chronometer standards making this timepiece synonymous with excellent performance.

The breathtaking sun-brushed blue dial is an evocation of the pie-pan dials of the vintage Constellations from the 1950s and features a simple date window at 6 o’clock. The blue handmade leather strap has a distinctly luxurious feel and is crafted from crocodile skin. 

The high-quality strap is fully grained, which means it will last long and withstand wear and tear without losing its sheen and luster. You can get this icon right here.

7. Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02 12B40 63B)

Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02 12B40 63B)

When in 1735 Jehan-Jacques Blancpain started making watches in a small workshop on the upper floor of his house at Villeret, he planted the seeds of a horological empire that would defy easy categorization and labels.

Famous for its Fifty-Fathoms watch, the Swiss brand has continued to remain at the top board of Haute Horology thanks to its numerous high complication and iconic watches.

First launched in the 1950s, the Air Command is one of the highly coveted flagship models with pleasing aesthetics and top-notch technicality. The watch is presented on a 42.5 mm titanium case with a bidirectional titanium bezel with a blue ceramic insert. The case features alternating brushed and polished surfaces, giving it a rather sporty look.

The flawless deep blue dial beams brilliantly and just gives off a futuristic look that is reinforced by the sunray-brushed surface. The highly legible dial features snailed chronograph counters at 3 and 9 o’clock and a tachymeter scale on the outer edge.

The calfskin strap comes in a matching blue color and has been finely waxed, giving it a vintage and streaked lightning effect. Get this icon right here.

8. Breguet Classique (ref. 5177BB/12/9V6)

Breguet Classique (ref. 5177BB/12/9V6)

Famous for revolutionizing watchmaking by inventing the tourbillon in 1801, Breguet is one of the oldest surviving watchmakers with an exceptional standard of horological prowess. The Classique 5177BB/12/9V6 is an exquisite, ultra-high-end creation inspired by 19th-century pocket watches from Breguet.

The watch is presented on a flawlessly polished 18kt white gold case that measures 38mm by 8.8mm. Among other things, it is the true rebirth of a classic with long, narrow lugs that makes it wear slightly larger than its dimensions indicate.

Since many of the design details are derived from vintage pocket watches, the dial is traditionally styled but this time with a contemporary twist. The exquisite guilloche textured dial comes on a silvered 18kt gold plate and has been engraved with an intricate “pannier” weave pattern that is both charming and evocative of the good old times.

It features blued “Breguet” style hands and a fine hour and minute chapter ring with black Roman numeral hour markers & dot minute markers. The strap of the watch is a solid black alligator/crocodile leather with a tang buckle.

The band features an elementary design that shows off the natural characteristics of the leather superlatively. Check it out and get it here.

9. Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 517.CX.0710.LR)

Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic (ref. 517.CX.0710.LR)

Hublot (French for “bullseye” or “porthole”) was founded in 1980 by Italian Carlo Crocco in Switzerland. From the onset, Mr. Carlo aimed to produce eccentric watches with groundbreaking technology that would command the attention of the Horological world.

The brand’s obsession with unusual materials in the making of timepieces made them bold enough to combine gold and rubber in the same watch for the first time in history. The Classic Fusion Aerofusion Moonphase Black Magic is one of those eccentric innovations that elegantly display the technical craftsmanship of the brand.

The watch is presented on a 45mm satin-finished and polished black ceramic case with contemporary aesthetics. Elegance rules supreme with the sapphire skeletonized dial of the Ref. 517.CX.0710.LR just creates a mystical and bewitching atmosphere unique to the wearer.

The watch also features a splendid moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock and is powered by a self-winding moon phase movement, the HUB1131, with a power reserve of 42 hours. The black alligator leather strap (the most luxurious and durable of all Crocodilians) is flexible, hypoallergenic, and significantly superior in quality. Get this flawless beast right here.

10. Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Grand Seiko Elegance SBGY007

Grand Seiko is the premium sibling (and luxury arm) of Seiko that produces elegant watches with exclusive movements and the highest-grade materials. The SBGY007 is a timepiece that reinstates the brand’s desire to propagate rich and exciting Japanese traditions in a contemporary package.

The watch is presented in a mirror-polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 38.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.2mm. The lug-to-lug width is 43.7mm, and you’ll be pleased to discover how beautifully the lugs curve to embrace your wrist.

The dial is simple, clean, and understated with a wave ripple-like texture produced by hammering a mold with different types of hammers. Under the hood, the 9R31 movement, accurate to +/-1 second per day, provides a power reserve of 72 hours.

The watch is mounted on black crocodile leather fastened by a threefold clasp with push button release. The leather is solid and possesses a one-of-a-kind appearance. It also features the brand’s embossed logo on the underside. Check it out here.

11. Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 (ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC)

Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 (ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC)

The Oris Big Crown Calibre 473 Ref. 01 473 7786 4065-07 5 19 22FC is an elegant mechanical watch equipped with the new caliber 473. The Caliber 473 is a robust and reliable movement with a five-day power reserve and a 10-year warranty. 

The movement was built and designed from the ground up by Oris, and the Hölstein-based watch manufacturer reports that it took four years to create it. Like the caliber 400 series, it is accurate to within -3/+5 seconds a day. Functions of the movement include powering the hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator, and pointer date.

The dial of the watch is captivating and features a peculiar blue shade that resembles the water’s surface. It is adorned with Arabic numerals and a red arrow-shaped pointer that indicates the date on the periphery. There is a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock also.

The watch is presented on a textured brown strap made from sustainably sourced deer leather. Deer leather is one of the softest leather options on the market that is loved for its supple thinness and breathability. The strap also features a sophisticated butterfly folding clasp with a seamless adjustment system.

12. Longines Spirit 37mm (ref. L3.410.4.53.0)

Longines Spirit 37mm (ref. L3.410.4.53.0)

Longines is a Swiss brand with a strong heritage in the watchmaking industry. The prestigious watchmaker has been in business since 1832 and is famous for creating the first Chronograph movement, ‘the 13.33Z’.

The Longines Spirit is a vintage-inspired collection with contemporary aesthetic and technical features that pays tribute to the brand’s past. The collection has a lineup of elegant watches, all paying homage to the exceptional men and women who, by a display of courage, left their mark on history, particularly in the aviation sector.

The Ref. L3.410.4.53.0 is presented on a 37mm stainless steel case that is highly advertised as a women’s alternative on the brand’s website but could be worn by men as well. The case has a height of 11.7mm and is finely executed with high-quality finishings on the top, mid-case, and periphery of the bezel.

The sunray-brushed blue dial is also excellently designed with sharp, luminous Arabic numerals. The blue calf leather strap is elegant, discreet, and slightly vintage, with contrasting topstitching that perfectly compliments the dial.

13. NOMOS Club Campus 38 Cream Coral (ref. 725)

NOMOS Club Campus 38 Cream Coral (ref. 725)

NOMOS is a young independent watch brand founded by Roland Schwertner in 1990. The Glashütte-based watch manufacturer is famous for its clean and modernist aesthetic designs and is also the largest manufacturer of mechanical watches in Germany.

The Club Campus 38 Cream Coral is a lighthearted spirit watch that is just as refreshing as it is enthralling. The watch is youthful, free, and uncomplicated and is presented on a 38 × 8.5mm stainless steel case with a closed back and 100 meters of water resistance. The cream coral dial delivers a nice dose of fun and is adorned with a fine combination of Roman and Arabic numerals. 

The hands and hour markers have white luminous inserts to keep the watch highly legible in low-light conditions. The movement underneath the hood is NOMOS’s hand-wound Alpha caliber with 43 hours of power reserve when fully wound. The watch is worn on a velour leather gray strap that has a unique velvety feeling. It is also extremely robust and breathable.

14. Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono (ref. H38416711)

The Hamilton Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a vintage-inspired reissue of a 1968 signature piece that offers a sporty but classic look. The Swiss watch brand was founded in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, in 1892 and is famous for producing beautifully designed and highly precise timepieces.

The Ref. H38416711 comes in a fully polished 316L stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter and 14.45mm in height. Flanking a large, signed crown at 3 o’clock are two oversized pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock, giving the timepiece a unique retro vibe.

The panda dial features two snail-patterned subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. The one is a small seconds counter, while that on the right is a 30-minute counter. The watch is fitted with a comfortable 20mm black calf leather strap with matching stitching and a stainless steel folding clasp buckle.

Calfskin leather is a fantastic choice because it is lighter weight and more supple than the ones derived from older cows. Check it out here.

15. Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121

Seiko Prospex Alpinist SPB121

The first Seiko Alpinist, the Laurel Alpinist, was released in 1959. The watch was originally intended for mountain men who needed a reliable watch that could put up with the rugged terrains without sacrificing accuracy. 

The Alpinist has evolved but remains one of the greatest legends produced by Seiko that is appreciated by thousands of watch enthusiasts across the globe. The Ref. SPB121  is a modern reinterpretation of the 1959 model and features a balanced mix of vintage and modern-day elements.

Measuring a fitting 39.5mm by 13.2mm, the brushed stainless steel case has a polished bezel and is topped with an AR-coated sapphire crystal. The olive-black dial features a beautiful sunray pattern with a gilded internal rotating compass track on the perimeter.

The watch comes mounted on a luxurious brown strap, crafted from premium quality crocodile embossed calf leather. The strap has a waxed finish with a brown matching stitch and a steel button deployment safety clasp. Get it here.

16. Ballon Bleu de Cartier

Even if you’re familiar with the brand name, there’s a chance you might have missed out on the beauty of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier. To be honest, even though Cartier isn’t high on my list, this is a fantastic timepiece with a reliable leather band.

This includes a 40mm steel case and a Roman numeral dial with convex curves that look great from every angle. I’m a big fan of mechanical features, which is why I have to mention the watch’s 1847 MIC Caliber movement. It features seamless automatic winding, and the blue steel sword-shaped hands are a sight to see for anyone.

When I’m wearing the watch, I find myself appreciating the durability of the watch band, as you can feel it to the touch. Not only will it hold up in the long term, but it will also look and feel beautiful on all sides.

I consider this watch a great choice for everyday wear and a luxurious choice that might as well be a family heirloom. Cartier never disappoints, and the multi-layered quality in this watch isn’t hard to see from my standpoint.

Conclusion

Leather straps have undergone many changes since their first appearance when pocket watches moved onto men’s wrists, but not their peerless elegance and sophistication. 

The legacy of leather straps continues onward, and today, many designers and watchmakers create very high-quality leather straps in a wide variety of styles and price points. That said, if you haven’t added a watch with a leather strap to your collection, remember it’s a necessity, and the clock is ticking.

best ceramic watches from affordable to luxury

The 21 Best Ceramic Watches For All Budgets

Samar

June 29, 2023

Watch brands have historically used stainless steel, precious metals, and chrome (although a long time ago) as the main materials for watch cases. However, there has been a rise in the use of alternative case materials in the past several years. One of the more notable case materials is ceramic, and this is the focus of our discussion.

In this article, we will review a variety of great ceramic watches, from affordable budget options to the upper limits of luxury price points. If you are ready to learn more about ceramic watches, let’s move forward.

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History of Ceramic Watches

The first time ceramic was used to produce an entire watch case was by Rado in 1962 with the Rado Diastar 1. It was not until the 1970s that Seiko produced their first ceramic watch, the Tuna 6159-7010 diver watch, the grandfather of the Seiko Tuna watches with the shrouded case. Like Marmite, you either love it or hate it.

Later, IWC used ceramic in their Da Vinci ref. 3755 from 1986-1995. The trend of ceramic watches gained popularity in 1999 with the release of the J12 from Chanel, featuring a black ceramic watch case and bracelet. 

This was significant for Chanel, as they transitioned from a luxury fashion brand making fashion watches to producing serious luxury watches. The J12 collection of watches has since expanded, with Chanel incorporating white and mixed ceramic colors, making it their flagship watch.

Next, let’s delve into the 20 best ceramic watches for all budgets.

1. Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch

Omega X Swatch MoonSwatch

The MoonSwatch has had a meteoric rise since its release in March 2022. It has piqued society’s interest by introducing 12 colorful bioceramic watches inspired by the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and celestial objects within the solar system.

The watch is a 1:1 of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, borrowing the case shape from Omega but with different dial layouts and dial colors in bioceramic form. In terms of dimensions, the MoonSwatch measures 42mm in diameter and 13.25mm in thickness and has a round case shape.

The movement inside is an ETA quartz movement with 4 jewels. The watch’s crystal is made of plastic. If you turn the watch over to the case back, each MoonSwatch has a sticker referencing a celestial object such as the Sun, Moon, Mercury, etc.

The watch is water-resistant up to 3 bars, so it’s best to remove it if you plan on getting wet. The watch comes with a velcro strap with a 20mm lug width. The MoonSwatch has regular spring bars, so you can easily swap out straps.

Some negatives are the plastic feel of the velcro strap and the build quality of the watch case. People have mentioned the chronograph pushers breaking off. Also, this is the only watch on this list that does not have a sapphire crystal.

It has a plastic crystal that tends to scratch easily, and it cannot be easily buffed out like acrylic. The MoonSwatch has become an affordable Omega Speedmaster watch for the masses. I even own two (Jupiter and Mars), and I love the direction Swatch is going with it.

This watch will undoubtedly lead people to learn about the Omega Speedmaster, with the possibility of acquiring it in the future. Lastly, the watch is priced at $260 but can only be purchased in Swatch stores, and inventory remains limited even in 2023.

2. Junghans Force Mega Solar (ref. 18/1938.44)

Junghans Force Mega Solar (ref. 18/1938.44)

Junghans is well-known for its Bauhaus-designed watches and clocks, particularly the Max Bill collection. But did you know they also produce ceramic watches with radio-controlled quartz solar movement? If you didn’t, let’s find out more about it below.

Regarding Mega Solar’s specifications, the case and bracelet are made of black ceramic with a matte finish. The case diameter is 40.4mm and round in shape, while the bracelet features a titanium-folding clasp. 

Although the watch is not considered an integrated bracelet watch, the narrow width of the lugs and the flow of the case to the bracelet prevents the use of other straps. The watch is 8.2mm thick, making it slim and lightweight. It is also water-resistant to 5ATM, making it more than just splash-proof.

Other interesting features of this solar-powered quartz watch include multi-frequency radio, which allows the timepiece to be conveniently controlled via the Junghans MEGA App. The watch also has a power reserve of up to 21 months, a sleep mode after 72 hours, and a big date for better readability. All of these features are useful and can make our lives easier.

Lastly, the watch is priced at approximately $1,550.

3. Longines Hydroconquest Ceramic (ref. L3.784.4.56.9)

Longines Hydroconquest Ceramic (ref. L3.784.4.56.9)

The Longines Hydroconquest is the flagship dive watch of the brand. It is regarded as a more affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner. However, one version of Longines’ dive watch they have created that Rolex has yet to produce is an all-ceramic dive watch. This is an interesting timepiece, and we will dive into it below.

The Hydroconquest Ceramic comes in a matte black ceramic case in 43mm size and round case shape. The Hydroconquest is 13mm thick with a lug width of 21mm and a weight of 126.7g. 

Despite the larger size of the watch, it is comfortable on the wrist due to the lightweight case material of ceramic construction. The Hydroconquest comes with a black rubber strap that hugs the wrist pleasantly.

Powering the Hydroconquest is Longines’ caliber L888, an impressive entry-level Swiss movement with a large 72-hour power reserve. So if you stop wearing the watch on Friday evening, it will still be running by Monday morning. There is also a date at the 3 o’clock position.

Being a dive watch, it has a water resistance rating of 300m, making it an ideal timepiece for underwater exploration. In terms of Swiss luxury, this is arguably the best value-for-money ceramic watch on this list and is priced at $4,150. 

4. Bell & Ross BR03-92 Phantom (ref. BR0392-PHANTOM-CE)

Bell & Ross BR03-92 Phantom (ref. BR0392-PHANTOM-CE)

Bell & Ross were founded in 1992 and have gained a following due to their unique pilot and military-styled timepieces. The Bell & Ross Phantom is a looker of a watch, especially if you have larger wrists.

The Phantom comes in a matte black ceramic square case with a black rubber strap, measuring 42mm in width and 9.8mm in thickness. Due to its flat and square shape, the Phantom wears quite large, which is perfect if you have bigger wrists.

The dial of the watch features 3, 6, 9, and 12 Arabic numerals, along with a date window at the 4:30 position. The movement powering the Phantom is Bell & Ross’ Calibre BR-CAL.302, which is based on the Sellita SW300, a clone of the ETA 2892.

Although not a dive watch, the Phantom can handle water resistance up to 100m, making it an ideal companion for aerial and aquatic adventures. As an owner of a BR03-92 in stainless steel, I can attest that the design and style are iconic. The square shape of the BR03 is unmistakably Bell & Ross.

The BR03-92 Phantom is priced at $3,990.

5. Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic (ref. R32128202)

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic (ref. R32128202)

Rado is a pioneer in using ceramic in watchmaking, and if you’re considering purchasing a ceramic watch, the brand should be on your list. In 2017, Rado re-launched the Captain Cook Dive Watch, paying homage to the original Captain Cook watches from 1962.

The particular watch we will inspect is the Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic. Captain Cook’s case is constructed of a monobloc case, meaning that to access the movement, you go from the front rather than removing the case back to access the movement.

This actually helps with water resistance as there are fewer access points in the watch case. The case size is 43mm and 14.6mm thick. This Captain Cook has a symmetrical and clean dial with no date. It also contains a translucent dial showing the movement.

The movement within is a variant of the Powermatic 80 movement that contains 80 hours of power reserve. In my opinion, the Captain Cook has been one of the most significant watch releases for Rado in the last few decades. Rado was typically associated with being an old-fashioned watch brand with their DiaStar and Ceramica collections.

But the Captain Cook collection is cool, with pedigree and history to back it up. This variant of the Captain Cook in ceramic is priced at $3,900.

6. Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic (ref. M79210CNU-0001)

Tudor has been making waves in the watch industry ever since its resurgence in 2012. They are the playful and cooler cousin of Rolex. In fact, Tudor has been using ceramic watch cases since 2013, when they produced the Black Shield version of the Fast Rider Chronograph Watch. However, we are highlighting the ceramic version of the Black Bay here.

The Black Bay Ceramic comes in a case size of 41mm in matte black ceramic with a micro-bead blasted finish. The case is 14.4mm thick and has a lug-to-lug length of 50mm. The numbers may seem large; however, due to the lightness of the watch case and hybrid rubber and leather strap, it wears comfortably.

A great aspect of this Black Bay Ceramic is the automatic Calibre MT5602-1U. The Black Bay Ceramic costs $5,025, and this is good value for money, all things being considered.

7. TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph (ref. CBG2090.BH0661)

TAG Heuer Carrera Automatic Chronograph (ref. CBG2090.BH0661)

The TAG in TAG Heuer is an abbreviation for Techniques d’Avant Garde. When it comes to avant-garde materials, ceramic is an appropriate choice. Jean-Claude Biver, the former President of LVMH’s watch division (including TAG Heuer and Zenith), significantly influenced the design of the modern Carrera Automatic Chronograph watches. 

The case, lugs, tachymeter bezel, and bracelet of this ceramic Carrera are made of black ceramic. The watch case has a diameter of 43mm and is water-resistant to 100m. The watch features an exhibition case back, but the front is more impressive with the skeleton dial displaying the Calibre HEUER02 Automatic in-house movement. 

The movement has a lengthy 80-hour power reserve. These specifications for this Carrera are quite impressive. A negative critique of this timepiece is that it shares key design elements with Hublot. It is essentially an affordable version of the Hublot Big Bang Unico.

TAG Heuer prices this watch at $7,400.

8. IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun (ref. IW389101)

IWC Pilot Chronograph Top Gun (ref. IW389101)

“Top Gun: Maverick” was released in 2022, and in honor of the movie, IWC specially released the Pilot Chronograph Top Gun. The Pilot Chronograph is an icon of IWC, alongside the Big Pilot collection. The Top Gun watch boasts a design geared towards the elite among US Navy jet pilots, thus possessing genuine military pedigree along with a great stealthy appearance.

IWC states the watch is made of black ceramic with a diameter of 44.5mm. The watch is 15.7mm thick, with a lug width of 21mm. It is suitably paired with a textile strap, given the military styling of this timepiece. The Top Gun contains a screw-in crown but is only water-resistant to 60m, so its usefulness in water may be limited.

The hands of the chronograph are white, except for the running seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position, which has a touch of red. It’s subtle yet adds a nice touch of color.

What’s also interesting is that the Top Gun features a soft-iron inner case around the automatic movement for protection against magnetic fields, which is handy since we are constantly surrounded by magnetic fields in modern times.

The Top Gun commands a premium pricing from IWC at $8,950.

9. Zenith Defy Classic White Ceramic (ref. 49.9002.670/01.R792)

Zenith Defy Classic White Ceramic (ref. 49.9002.670/01.R792)

In 2019, Zenith released their Defy Classic collection of timepieces in black, white, and blue ceramic cases with matching color rubber straps. Zenith ventured out of their usual comfort zone of watch styling here, likely due to Jean-Claude Biver’s influence. Let’s delve into the Classic White Ceramic model.

The Zenith Defy white ceramic has a case size of 41mm and is 10.75mm thick. The Zenith has a water resistance of 100m, which makes it great for daily wear. Although the watch appears round, once it is on the wrist, you can feel the tonneau case of the Defy.

The dial of the watch is unique, as it is a skeleton design, meaning that components of the automatic movement can be seen from the front. The dial reminds me of Keith Haring’s Pop Art. This is definitely a fun timepiece to wear.

The Defy Classic White Ceramic has a retail price of $7,900.

10. Panerai Tuttonero Luminor GMT (ref. PAM01438)

Panerai Tuttonero Luminor GMT (ref. PAM01438)

Panerai is the quintessential watch of the Italian Navy Frogmen. They are historically military dive watches. Having owned a Panerai Luminor Marina, I can attest that Panerai timepieces are built to a high standard, robust, and interesting in design.

There is nothing quite like a Panerai, and the Tuttonero Luminor GMT is even more stylish with its black ceramic casing and stealthy appearance. The Tuttonero GMT is large at 44mm, 53mm lug-to-lug length, and cushion case design.

But then again, Panerai watches are meant to be large and bold on the wrist. The bracelet is also made out of ceramic, thus contributing to a cool overall experience. The dial of the Panerai contains faux patina on the hour markers, which contrasts well with the black matte dial.

The Tuttonero has a sandwich dial, meaning that there is a layer of lume below the dial with cutouts on the hour markers. This gives the dial added depth. The Tuttonero is also 100m water-resistant, ensuring you can safely swim with it.

The Tuttonero Luminor GMT comes with a steep price tag of $15,200.

11. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic (ref. Q204C470)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic (ref. Q204C470)

Jaeger-LeCoultre, or JLC, is often known as the “watchmaker’s watch brand” as they have historically provided movements to the best Swiss watchmakers, including Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet. Thus, if they were to follow modern trends and create a black ceramic watch, they have every right to do so.

The Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic measures 44mm. This chronograph contains a three-sub-dial layout at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. There’s a date window at the 4:30 position. This timepiece contains 100m water resistance, ensuring it can withstand harsh environments.

This watch is limited to 500 in production. Thus, due to its rarity, it is highly coveted by collectors. Although JLC is well-renowned for its movements and dress-style watches, they also make handsome sports-casual watches, as shown here.

The Master Compressor Chronograph Ceramic was $13,900 when released. This model is now discontinued, so it can only be purchased on the secondary market.

12. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 0240 O52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 0240 O52A)

Blancpain is credited with making the first dive watch in 1953, alongside Zodiac. However, the modern Blancpain we know today is actually a modern reincarnation. Jean-Claude Biver purchased the brand in 1983 (defunct since 1961) and successfully revived it.

Now Blancpain is under the Swatch Group umbrella. Let’s dive in and learn more about the ceramic Bathyscaphe. This Bathyscaphe is crafted in gray ceramic. The case is 43.6mm in diameter and 13.8mm thick, with a 23mm lug width.

Those numbers appear large, particularly the 23mm lug width, and it can be difficult to obtain straps in this size. However, the sailcloth strap on the watch is one of the best in the business from Blancpain. The Bathyscaphe, true to its dive watch heritage, has 300m of water resistance.

The Bathyscaphe has a blue sunburst dial, and the color matches the blue ceramic bezel insert. Also, the hands are unique; they are blocky and remind me of Lego pieces but with a straight point at the tip of each hand.

A negative is the size of the lume plots on the hour markers; they are small for this watch dial, given there is enough empty space on the dial to make them larger.

The Bathyscaphe in ceramic is expensively priced at $13,500.

13. Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003)

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003)

Omega has been releasing variant after variant of their ever-popular Speedmaster watches, which has diluted the Speedmaster collection. However, the Dark Side of the Moon in black ceramic caught the attention of many enthusiasts. Even as I think about this timepiece, I lust for it along with the regular Speedmaster Moonwatch.

The Dark Side of the Moon comes in a 44mm case sizing, larger than the standard Moonwatch. The thickness is 16.1mm, the lug width is 21mm, and the lug-to-lug length is 49.8mm. Due to the ergonomic curves of the case and downward turn lugs, this watch is very wearable on a range of wrist sizes.

The Dark Side of the Moon is light at 93g on the nylon strap. Also, there are two subdials at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock rather than the standard three on the Moonwatch.

The Dark Side of the Moon is a stunning timepiece, and the cherry on top is the exhibition case back, showing off the beautifully decorated Co-Axial Calibre 9300 movement. Considering the chronometer movement and the Speedmaster collection, the price tag of $12,000 seems reasonable.

14. Hublot Big Bang Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic (ref. 451.EX.5120.EX)

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic (ref. 451.EX.5120.EX)

Hublot is an expert when it comes to utilizing exotic materials in watches, ranging from sapphire to carbon, Magic Gold, and more. The material discussed here is sky blue ceramic, which is a unique take on ceramic, as brands typically use black or white ceramic.

But then again, Hublot is not your typical Swiss watch brand. They do things differently and are controversial within the watch community. The Integrated Sky Blue Ceramic is limited to 250 pieces. The sky blue ceramic case is satin-finished and polished; the case size is 42mm in diameter.

The bracelet comes with matching colors and finishes as the watch case. There is a skeleton dial showing off the inner gears and finish of the HUB1280 UNICO automatic movement. This movement also contains a flyback complication that allows the wearer to reset the chronograph timer to zero without stopping it.

The power reserve is an impressive 72 hours, and the timepiece has 100m water resistance, so it doesn’t need to be babied. If you have ever tried on a Big Bang watch, you will know they are large and thick, but this is the loud style of Hublot. I am not the biggest fan of Hublot, but they can make nice watches (Classic Fusion).

The Big Bang in Sky Blue Ceramic has a premium pricing of $24,100.

15. Grand Seiko SBGC221

Grand Seiko SBGC221

The Grand Seiko SBG221 is the only brand on this list that hails from Asia, as the others are German or Swiss-made. This takes nothing away from Grand Seiko and does not mean the watch is of inferior quality. In fact, Grand Seiko is renowned for the quality and Zaratsu finishing of its watch cases.

Grand Seiko typically sizes their sports watches on the larger end of the spectrum. Here, it is no different, as the SBGC221 has a case diameter of 46.4mm, a case thickness of 16.2mm, a lug width of 23mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 52.5mm. 

The heartbeat of the SBGC221 is through the Spring Drive movement, a hybrid quartz and automatic movement. The smoothness of the sweeping seconds hands of Grand Seiko Spring Drive movements is mesmerizing.

This SBGC221 is complicated; it is a chronograph watch with a unique asymmetrical three sub-dial arrangement. There is also a power reserve and date indicator. Additionally, there is a fourth main center hand, the GMT hand. This watch is full of functions, and it could be your only watch if it were smaller in size.

The SBGC221 is priced expensively at $14,800, but this is justified by the quality and high-end finishing of Grand Seiko.

16. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic (ref. 103077)

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic (ref. 103077)

If I do not have the opportunity to own an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in the future, then I feel the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is a suitable substitute for my collection. The version we are highlighting is the Finissimo in black ceramic, ref. 103077. Gerald Genta actually inspired the Bulgari Octo timepiece; thus, it possesses elegance and charm.

The Finissimo Ceramic uses black ceramic with a sandblasted finish. The case size comes in at 40mm with a 5.55mm thickness, but it wears larger due to the squarish size and flatness of the watch case. This watch has substance to back up its ultra-sleek look, and it contains an extra-thin automatic manufacture movement.

The movement includes a micro-rotor made of platinum. This is also the thinnest full ceramic watch currently available. The specifications of this Finissimo Ceramic are truly impressive. Bulgari is a brand that keeps innovating. So keep your eyes on them in the future.

This Finissimo Ceramic has a price tag of $17,700, a bargain compared to Genta-designed sports watches.

17. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ceramic (ref. 81010-32-631-32A)

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Ceramic (ref. 81010-32-631-32A)

During my recent travels, I had a layover in Copenhagen, Denmark, where I visited several watch boutiques. Several Girard-Perregaux Laureato watches caught my eye, including the regular stainless steel model, the Infinity Edition, and the Laureato Ceramic.

The latter was my pick of the bunch, although I sadly did not have much time to try it on. If looks could kill, this watch would be deadly. The GP Laureato Ceramic has a 42mm case size with a thickness of 11.13mm. The dial captures your attention with its Clous de Paris pattern, which features small square knobs.

The watch also features an exhibition case back, allowing you to view the beautifully decorated GP01800 automatic movement. People often compare the Laureato with the Royal Oak, but to me, it is another iconic watch from that period. There is a certain edge about this Laureato Ceramic that words simply cannot describe.

The color, edges, and textures all fuse together to make this a marvelous timepiece. Also, as the watch case is entirely black ceramic, the color makes the watch wear and feel smaller too. The GP Laureato Ceramic carries a premium price tag of $20,300.

18. Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks (ref. SB0161E4/BE91-256S)

Breitling Superocean Heritage Chronoworks (ref. SB0161E4/BE91-256S)

Breitling has a rich history in aviation, and the watch most people associate with Breitling is the Navitimer chronograph. However, in recent years, their Superocean Heritage Dive Watch collection has gained more exposure. The particular model we will be inspecting is the Superocean Heritage Chronoworks.

Firstly, the Chronoworks is a limited edition timepiece, with only 100 made. The Chronoworks is large, at 46mm and 15.44mm thick, with a lug width of 24mm. So, you will need a larger wrist to wear this watch; otherwise, it may end up looking like a dinner plate on your wrist.

Additional features of the Chronoworks include 100m water resistance and 100 hours of power reserve. It is undeniable that Breitling makes great watches. However, for the price of this watch, I would have expected a more luxurious strap than rubber. Also, the size of the watch is an issue, in my opinion.

This rare Chronoworks from Breitling had a retail price of $40,000. But is now discontinued and can only be found on the secondary market.

19. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (ref. 26579CS.OO.1225CS.01)

Audemars Piguet is considered one of the three brands in the “Holy Trinity” of Swiss watchmakers, alongside Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. Out of the three brands, AP has made greater efforts to follow modern trends.

The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in blue ceramic is an example of this, and it shows AP flexing its metaphorical muscles by fusing avant-garde with traditional watchmaking. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is 41mm in diameter and 9.5mm thin.

For a perpetual calendar, these measurements are slim, and the watch feels svelte on the wrist as the bracelet drapes around it. The dial and subdials of this Royal Oak contain a blue Grande Tapisserie texture. There are four subdials at each quarter of the dial.

In my opinion, the 6 o’clock subdial is the star of the show as the moon phase subdial is contained there. The background of the moon phase dial contains a starlit sky, making it a truly magical timepiece.

AP notes this timepiece is “Price on Request”. Nonetheless, sources indicate a retail price in the region of CHF 129,000, which is astronomical. Also, as this is a Royal Oak collection, it is undoubtedly limited in production.

20. Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson

When it comes to avant-garde watchmaking, Richard Mille is a brand that comes to mind. They have carved out a niche in the upper echelons of luxury watches. Whether you agree with the pricing or not, it is undeniable that Richard Mille is a force to be reckoned with in horology.

The watch we are focusing on is the RM055 “Bubba Watson”. The tonneau-shaped case is made of white ceramic, iconic of the RM brand. The Bubba Watson is 42.7mm in size, with a lug-to-lug length of 49.9mm and a thickness of 13.05mm.

The Bubba Watson sits ergonomically on the wrist, and the rubber strap follows the curvature of the case, making it very comfortable and lightweight to wear. Next, let’s talk about the movement. This is where RM really innovates. The movement is the Calibre RMUL2 hand-winding movement.

The gears and cogs seem to float above the skeleton dial, creating an impressive visual effect. The Bubba Watson is simply a supercar on your wrist. Sources indicate that the Bubba Watson has a retail price of $120,000. But RM watches are extremely difficult to obtain at retail prices. So you will be paying way above retail price if you’re interested in buying it from the secondary market.

21. Hublot Classic Fusion Orlinski Black Magic (Ref. 550.CS.1800.RX.ORL21)

The classic fusion has almost reimagined Hublot’s philosophy for watchmaking. This new Orlinski watch adds more of an artistic touch to the classic fusion’s design and makes it a bit more modern and quite a bit more fashionable. Quite contrary to Hublot’s traditional design, the Orlinski Black Magic is surprisingly subtle. 

This watch measures 40mm with a clear sapphire glass and ceramic casing that ensures the most amount of durability possible for a watch of this caliber. Inside, is the HUB1100, a house-made movement from Hubolt based on the SW300-1 and finished with an open rotor. The indices and hands are highly polished, complementing the bold textures of the ceramic case. Overall, this is a very luxurious piece that benefits from the all-black color. One of the more unique Hubolts on the Market. 

The Black Magic costs $14,800

Conclusion

Overall, ceramic watches are not a fad anymore as brands have placed significant resources into using the material. Ceramic watch cases have been here to stay since their inception in 1962. The list above covers a wide range of prices for people looking to buy a ceramic watch. 

Despite not being mentioned in the list of ceramic watches, having experienced the full white ceramic Chanel J12 watch, I can say that it is absolutely gorgeous to behold and feels light on the wrist. 

In my opinion, Chanel, along with Rado, are two juggernauts in the use of ceramic in wristwatches. So, if you are looking to buy a ceramic watch, remember to hunt around, do your research, and ask questions.

Whether you are new to the hobby or a seasoned collector, you can’t help but notice the popularity of dive watches. They are the undisputed champions of not just the sports watch world but the watch world in general. I am by no means saying that they are the best or most practical for every situation, but they are the style of watch most responsible for carrying the financial weight of most mainstream brands.

I was kind of a late bloomer in the world of dive watches. I found myself more enamored with the simplicity of a time-only watch like the Rolex Explorer, while the Submariner garnered most of the mainstream attention. There were many factors that played into this preference, but one of the most substantial was simply the size. When I first got into watches, we were riding the peak of the big watch craze and slowly trending back to a more manageable case dimension.

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In 2018, Tudor released the watch that really opened the floodgates into more compact dive watches with the release of the Tudor Black Bay 58, a 39mm vintage-inspired dive watch that lit the enthusiast community on fire and created waitlists for a watch whose sole purpose was to be an accessible watch to the everyday person.

Before the hype died down and I was finally able to pull the trigger on this dream dive watch, I went down a rabbit hole that many of us have gone down: The best mid-size dive watch. I discovered an incredible niche of watches that existed well before Tudor shined a light on the segment, and that was for 36mm dive watches. Often described as unisex, mid-size, boys, or women’s, these watches checked a lot of the boxes us more conservative collectors were looking for regardless of gender.

We are going to take a look at some of the best examples of 36mm dive watches that are as capable as they are wearable. Before we dive (pun completely intended) into the list, let’s first identify exactly what a dive watch is, some of the history, and who would actually want a 36mm example.

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Longines

The Legend Diver Watch L3.374.4.50.0

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 36mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Oris

Aquis Date Upcycle 36mm

  • Multi-piece stainless steel case, uni-directional rotating bezel with grey ceramic insert
  • Automatic
  • 36.50mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Longines

The Legend Diver Watch L3.374.4.50.0

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 36mm

About Dive Watches

To put it simply, a dive watch is a watch that features a certain degree of water resistance, a method for timing elapsed time, and the ability to monitor this elapsed time in a dark environment. There is the ISO 6425 standard that places some more stringent qualifications on this description, such as 100 meters of water resistance and lume plots by every indice on the dial as well as the bezel, but not every dive style watch will be rated to this standard.

When I look for a dive watch, I am typically looking for a watch with at least 100 meters of water resistance and a rotatable bezel, whether internal or external. Bonus points are awarded to watches with 200 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown. I don’t need these features (nor do 99% of collectors), but I feel a lot more confident washing the dishes and paddling a kayak with them!

History of Dive Watches

The dive watch as we know it really came into fruition in 1953 with the introduction of the Blancpain 50 Fathoms. The watch featured the iconic rotatable dive bezel and was quickly emulated by Rolex with their Submariner and Zodiac with the Seawolf, and as they say, the rest is history.

There have been several enhancements to dive watches, including helium escape valves, lockable bezels, and full lume dials, but really the recipe hasn’t strayed too far from the original. In the last 10 years or so, the greatest change has been the introduction of the vintage-inspired dive watch.

The process of looking back in the catalog for inspiration is a unique characteristic of watches today and is responsible for many of the watches on this list looking in their archive for their sizing as well. If you are looking for a more thorough history of dive watches, feel free to check out my best dive watches under $1000 guide.

Should you Buy a 36mm Dive Watch?

This is a great question that really comes down to personal preference. If you have a large wrist and like big watches, no, you should not buy a 36mm dive watch. If you have a small wrist and have longed for a capable dive watch, yes you absolutely should buy a 36mm dive watch. For those of us in between, with slightly smaller to slightly larger wrists, it will come down to preference. 

If you like a larger modern aesthetic and don’t mind the extra heft, I’d probably stick with some of the slightly larger options as the extra real estate on the dial truly is a benefit to the user experience. If you are bothered by a bulky watch or are someone that really wants to experience the feeling of a modernly built vintage-inspired watch, the 36mm is an absolute winner! 

Not only do you get a watch that is capable and wearable, but most of the time you get to save a pretty significant chunk of change when purchasing one compared to their larger siblings. For those of us open to the smaller case size, this is truly a win-win. 

The Best 36mm Dive Watches

Now that we have a little bit more of the backstory on dive watches, let’s begin our list of the 15 best 36mm dive watches.

1. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36.25mm (ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001)

Any list of dive watches would feel incomplete without a selection from Omega. Known for their innovative movement technology, strong historical provenance, and value for money compared to industry leader Rolex, Omega is a brand that needs little introduction. 

Since the introduction of the “Bond” era Seamaster Diver 300M, Omega has released 2 size variations of their iconic dive watch to appease a multitude of wrist sizes. Even though that trend came to an end with their most recent iteration, the fact that Omega continued to produce 36mm dive watches through the “bigger is better” era of the 2000s is admirable.

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 212.30.36.20.03.001, is a 36.25mm stainless steel watch that features all of the characteristics of the previous generation’s full-size version. The helium escape valve, skeleton sword hands, and scalloped bezel are all present in this compact dive watch. The watch still utilizes the Co-Axial escapement in the form of the Caliber 2500, building off of the architecture of the ETA 2892.

Although available in several variations, the blue dial and ceramic bezel on the stainless steel bracelet are the most iconic of the style. You won’t find the wave motif on this iteration, but coming in at a pre-owned price of $3000-$3500, this Seamaster offers a modern specification and a clean aesthetic other Seamasters cannot.

2. Tudor Submariner Mid-Size (ref. 75090)

Although Rolex has not dabbled in the midsize dive watch game since their earliest examples in the 1950s, it doesn’t necessarily mean they don’t have an option for you. Even though Tudor set the watch world on fire with the 37mm case dimension of their Black Bay 54, there is a precedent for these smaller dive watches within their lineup.

The Tudor Submariner Mid-size, ref. 75090, is a 36mm stainless steel Submariner borrowing much of its design and parts from its bigger brother, Rolex. The watch features a sapphire crystal, Mercedes handset, tritium lume, and crown guards. The case comes in at a very svelte 10mm thanks to the ETA 2824 -2 movement that powers the watch. This watch is exactly what Hans Wilsdorf had in mind when he founded the brand Tudor.

A more affordable alternative to Rolex that can give a user a very similar ownership experience at a fraction of the price. Like most watches even associated with Rolex, that affordability part of the equation has slipped out of the grasp of many vintage collectors as most Tudor Submariner examples will fetch premiums near their Rolex big brother depending on condition. 

Thanks in part to its smaller dimension, this reference will set you back anywhere from $4500-$8000, depending on the condition.

3. Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.0)

If you like the vintage styling of a watch from the late-1950s or early-1960s but want the modern construction and specification that comes with a new watch, few brands can provide as much value as Longines. They have a historical archive as deep as any Swiss watchmaker and are positioned in a place to provide these timepieces for an affordable price to a wide watch-collecting audience.

The Longines Legend Diver, ref L3.374.4.50.0, is a 36mm version of one of their most popular models since its release in 2012. This watch features an inner-rotatable dive bezel that is powered by a second crown on the timepiece. This helps prevent accidental knocking of the bezel and also helps to give the watch a distinct look compared to other options in this price range. 

This watch is powered by the L592 movement, featuring a silicon hairspring and a 45-hour power reserve. Coming in at a price of $2400, this watch represents great value for someone looking for a great everyday watch with a vintage aesthetic and a few tricks up its sleeve.

4. Oris Divers Sixty-Five 36mm (ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18)

If you are looking for value for money in the Swiss watch industry, few brands pack as much punch as Oris. The independently owned darling of the watch industry is known for providing consumers with well-built timepieces that can withstand a more active lifestyle.

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a model that has come to be a cornerstone of the Oris brand and provides entry-level luxury consumers with modern construction and specification while still maintaining the original charm of the Oris dive watches from the 1960s. 

Perhaps none of these timepieces are as faithful to that original specification as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, ref. 01 733 7747 4055-07 4 17 18. This 36mm stainless steel watch on a tropic-style rubber strap matches the original case dimension and style of the time. The dial layout represents a more standard approach than some of the models with Arabic numerals, but the watch still exudes a charm that many vintage recreation watches miss out on. 

The watch has been criticized for its 100M of water resistance and less-than-perfect bezel action, but if you are looking for a modern spec monster, this may not be the watch for you. If you are looking for a dive watch that gives you the feeling of a 1960s classic while still maintaining many of the modern enhancements we have come to love, this Oris Divers Sixty-Five for $2100 is a great option to consider.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 (ref. WBP231D.BA0626)

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 (ref. WBP231D.BA0626)

TAG Heuer is a brand with many identities. They have a strong vintage archive and are known for producing some of the most collectible vintage recreation watches available. They also have a more modern side that pushes the boundaries of engineering with watches like their Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon. 

But if there was one aspect of TAG Heuer that they are most known for outside of the watch enthusiast community, it is definitely their entry-level luxury watches, many of which come from their Aquaracer line. This line of dive watches covers the entry-level luxury segments and is available in several sizes and color iterations.

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300, ref. WBP231D.BA0626, is a 36mm stainless steel watch that comes on a matching stainless steel bracelet. Despite the smaller size, the watch shares the design language of its larger offering with the striped dial, 6 o’clock date, and dodecagon-shaped bezel (sounds crazy, but really just has some flat sides as opposed to the more standard circular shape). 

The watch is powered by the caliber 5 movement, which is a dressed-up version of the ETA 2824-2 or Sellita SW200-1. Coming in at a price of roughly $3300, this watch is on the higher end of watches featuring this movement, but given the quality of the watch and name cache of the brand, there is quite a bit of value in this timepiece.

6. Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition (ref. WW194026SS-0530)

Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition (ref. WW194026SS-0530)

If you are looking for a modern-day military spec watch, few brands can compete with Canadian-based Marathon. While other watch brands lean into their historical archives to recreate their watches with military provenance, Marathon is able to look in their current catalog.

The biggest surprise to me, however, is not just that watches are being produced under military specification, but that they are being produced in sizes that are down-right wearable by those of us with slender wrists.

The Marathon MSAR Auto Arctic Edition, ref. WW194026SS-0530, is a great example of this capability. The 36mm stainless steel case is casual and wearable while maintaining the brutalist design language that made this watch a success in the larger variations. The arctic dial on this model absolutely pops while giving the dial an even smaller appearance with the contrasting black bezel. 

The watch is powered by the M2 Marathon movement, based on the Sellita SW200-1, and features a very robust 300M of water resistance. Coming in at a price of $1100 on the rubber strap, this Marathon diver is a great option for anyone looking for a modern take on a military dive watch.

7. Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm (ref. T120.210.11.041.00)

Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm (ref. T120.210.11.041.00)

There are few brands that can offer the wide breadth of watches that SWATCH-owned Tissot can. From vintage recreations to modern classics, Tissot has a watch that will fit almost any need. One area that Tissot does not receive enough credit, however, is their ability to create very capable sports watches.

Tissot is pushing the boundaries of robustness more than any other entry-level luxury brand. While these innovations are definitely appreciated by the community, their ability to produce these watches in sizes anyone can enjoy is often overlooked.

The Tissot Seastar 1000 36mm, ref. T120.210.11.041.00, is a perfect example of a capable and versatile timepiece at a very comfortable price point for most enthusiasts at $395. What’s the Kicker? The watch is powered by a quartz movement. 

Before you rule this one out, think of its purpose and whether or not a quartz movement actually makes more sense here. I love mechanical movements as much as the next enthusiast, but if you’re looking for a robust and affordable engine for your watch, it is not going to be powered by a Swiss lever escapement and a mainspring; it will be powered by a quartz crystal. 

This 36mm stainless steel watch ticks a lot of boxes that we are looking for in an everyday or “beater” watch and even features a stunning blue dial, 300M of water resistance, and a better-than-expected stainless steel bracelet. If you are willing to look past the quartz movement, you can get yourself the best deal on the list with this Tissot Seastar 1000.

8. Breitling Superocean Heritage 36 (ref. A17377211C1A1)

Breitling Superocean Heritage 36 (ref. A17377211C1A1)

When you think of the brand Breitling, more than likely, a highly complicated chronograph design for pilots comes to mind. Breitling has created a remarkable legacy for itself in this space, but they do create many other watches that are worthy of attention. The Breitling Superocean line is one that deserves more attention than it currently receives. This line of dive watches is very broad and contains options for almost anyone.

The Breitling Superocean Heritage 36, ref. A17377211C1A1, features a 36mm stainless steel case and illustrates the Superocean lines’ versatility beautifully. Available in several different colors at this 36mm case size (as well as the other sizes as well), the turquoise dial option really stands out for me. Accentuated by the cream-colored chapter ring and silver bezel color, the vividness of the turquoise immediately grabs your attention. 

The watch is powered by a derivative of the Sellita SW200-1, which is a pretty big hang-up for some, considering the $5,150 price tag on a stainless steel bracelet. In my opinion, if you are someone who values the look of your watch more than the fact that your movement has a proprietary design, this watch is a great option to consider.

9. Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm (ref. 01 733 7770 4150-Set)

Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm (ref. 01 733 7770 4150-Set)

When you produce a watch as admired as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five in the entry-level luxury space, it is hard to believe that there is a lineup in their catalog that they are even more known for. That is, of course, the Oris Aquis. Where the Diver’s Sixty-Five plays into the historical charm of the 1960s, the Aquis is the complete opposite, featuring a much more modern aesthetic and integrated bracelet.

The Aquis has been around for several iterations and has been available in several sizes and dial options. My favorite of the bunch is the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle 36.5mm. ref. 01 733 7770 4150. As the name suggests, this version is the more compact 36.5mm case and features a unique dial composed of recycled ocean plastic producing a unique dial for every watch. 

Powered by a Sellita SW200-1 movement and featuring 300M of water resistance, this watch is ready for any task. Coming in at $2500, this version is a little bit of an increase in price over the standard Aquis, but given the unique look, absolutely worth the price.

10. Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm (ref. 16619540)

Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm (ref. 16619540)

Homage watches are a sensitive subject among enthusiasts. Whether you love or loathe them, you can’t deny that they are great entryways into the world of horology. Not everyone has the budget for a vintage Rolex or even Tudor Submariner, but thanks to Davosa, you can now get the look for a fraction of the price. 

The Davosa Ternos Medium 36.5mm, ref. 16619540, borrows almost all of its design identity from a midsize Tudor Submariner. While some may not be OK with that for the $899 they are asking, others will have no problem.

While the ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and Super-LumiNova are all modern features of a watch in current production, the design language of this watch follows most closely that of the 5-digit Submariner line. While I understand that this model may not be for everyone, if you are able to look past the borrowed design, you can get a great watch for a great price. 

11. Glycine Combat Sub 36mm (ref. GL0397)

If you were to ask me a few years ago if I would ever recommend a watch produced by the Invicta group to a group of watch enthusiasts, I would have given myself whiplash from shaking my head side to side so aggressively. 

Although Glycine still operates as an independent watchmaker, they are very much owned by Invicta. Thankfully for us, they are continuing to produce quality Swiss-made watches for affordable prices, even though you may have to look through the Invicta pricing smoke screen.

The Glycine Combat Sub, ref. GL0397, is a 36mm dive watch that takes inspiration from the Submariner design language. They are not as “inspired” as the Davaso mentioned earlier, but the resemblance is there. What makes this watch fun and different is the case treatment Glycine has decided to go with. 

This Glycine Combat Sub features a gold-plated case and bracelet, giving this watch a touch of class or gaudiness, depending on your view of gold watches. The pricing on this watch is all over the map ranging from the MSRP of roughly $1550 (don’t pay that!) down to $598 through some other retailers.

The look is unique, and if you are able to pick this up on the lower end of this range, you’ll get yourself a unique take on a Submariner-inspired watch with 300M of water resistance and a Sellita SW200-1 as well.

12. Armida A11 36mm (ref. 00055)

Armida is a brand that has developed quite a fan following amongst the micro-brand enthusiast community. Their clean and classic designs that borrow just enough from more mainstream watchmakers and robust construction help to separate this brand from the hundreds of others in the price range. 

The Armida A11, ref. 00055, is a great example of this ethos. The 36mm stainless steel case features an ETA 2836-2 movement with day and date complication. The unique placement of this day/date complication at 6 O’clock on the dial helps to give this timepiece a unique look, despite the familiar black dial, black bezel, and Mil-Spec Submariner dial and handset.

This watch comes in at $399 and represents a tremendous value for a watch with a Swiss-made movement, quality construction, and compact size.

13. Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm (ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6)

Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm (ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6)

After years of relative obscurity compared to their price equivalent competition, Alpina has finally started to break out of their shell and garner more mainstream attention. With several strong product lines to their credit, the Seastrong Diver is one of the favorites among many collectors.

The Alpina Seastrong Diver 36mm, ref. AL-525LNSB3VG6, is a different take on this winning formula. Although marketed as a ladies watch, a common fate for many watches in this size range, this 36mm watch features a polycarbonate and fiberglass case in a black finish that feels quite masculine.

The watch is paired with a bi-color blue nylon strap that complements the blue fume dial. This watch is powered by a Sellita SW200-1 and comes in at a price of $1595. If you are looking for a smaller dive watch that will stand out from the crowd, this Alpina Seastrong is a great option to consider.

14. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36mm (ref. 2252.50)

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 36mm (ref. 2252.50)

I am not one to typically repeat watches from the same watchmaker, let alone product line, but when a brand carries as much weight as Omega I am willing to make an exception. The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, ref. 2252.50, in 36mm, is very similar to the Omega Seamaster we mentioned earlier.

The case, helium escape valve, and scalloped bezel are virtually identical between these two models. Despite the similarities, these watches couldn’t be further apart aesthetically. The blue dial and skeleton hands have been replaced by a black wave dial and standard sword hands, giving this model more of a Mil-Spec vibe than a Hollywood icon.

This seamaster is powered by the caliber 1120 based on the ETA 2892, and the aluminum bezel insert predates the ceramic found in the newer model. The subdued look helps this watch look more natural on the wrist today than its blue counterpart that feels distinctly 90s (not that that is a bad thing). 

These can be had anywhere from $2,000-$3,000, depending on the condition, and there is also a quartz version available with the same design for a little bit cheaper. If you’re looking for a luxury dive watch with some serious Military roots, the Omega Seamaster Diver, ref. 2252.50, is a great option to consider.

15. Vintage 36mm Skindiver

Alright, so I am kind of cheating here, but this style of watch definitely deserves a mention. The 1960s and early 1970s were the perfect cross-section of overproduction and lowered costs of manufacturing. There was no shortage of brands producing watches during this time, and because of this, there are still hundreds of thousands of them floating around in dresser drawers and garage sales, waiting to be discovered. 

Because of the interest in recreational diving and water activities like surfing and snorkeling, many of these watches carried the Skindiver case style, capable of decent water resistance, while costing significantly less than the true dive watches of the day from brands like Omega and Rolex. 

The 36mm case dimension was a favorite amongst brands due to its increased size compared to more casual timepieces of the era. Pricing for these watches varies from a few hundred dollars to a few thousand dollars, depending on the brand and the condition. You may not be able to take these watches with you diving, but they will likely hold the memories of many others who did.

Conclusion

So, there you have it, 15 of the best 36mm dive watches. Whether you just prefer a smaller watch, are a vintage enthusiast at heart, or only have the wrist to support a smaller dive watch there is a great option in this list for you. Thanks to the law of supply and demand, many of these watches can be had for a great price, slightly pre-owned, or straight from the Authorized Dealer with a discount. 

A 36mm dive watch certainly isn’t for everyone, but neither is 44mm or 42mm or even the universally loved 39mm. If you need more validation of the return to midsize dive watches, look no further than Tudor at Watches and Wonders 2023. 

After years of carrying the torch of producing the most well-loved dive watch for smaller wrists with the Black Bay 59 at 39mm, they introduced the Black Bay 54 at an even more compact 37mm dimension with even more bells and whistles. If Tudor released this before revamping their flagship model in the Black Bay 58, there might be more weight behind this return to midsize watches trend than most of us even believed. 

Either way, more choices will always be a win for the enthusiast community as more and more people of different shapes and sizes can find the watch that fits their wrist and style perfectly!

Happy Watch Hunting!

best 39mm dive watches

Dive watches have been a favorite among watch enthusiasts for decades and for a good reason. These timepieces are not only stylish but also incredibly practical and engineered to withstand the rigors of underwater exploration. 

From oversized statement pieces to minimalist timepieces, the watch industry has produced a wide range of styles and sizes to suit every taste. However, the trend in recent years has been away from larger watches. The 39mm size has emerged as a popular choice, striking the perfect balance between functionality and wearability. 

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In this article, we will explore some of the best 39mm dive watches currently available on the market, analyzing their features, performance, and style. From established brands to emerging players, we will provide a comprehensive overview of the best options for those in the market for a high-quality 39mm dive watch. 

Whether you’re an avid diver or simply someone who appreciates a well-made timepiece, read on to discover the top 39mm dive watches on the market.

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Omega

Planet Ocean Co-Axial Master Chronometer 39.5mm Black Dial on Bracelet 215.30.40.20.01.001

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 39.5mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Glashütte Original

SeaQ Bracelet

  • Stainless steel
  • Automatic
  • 39.50mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Longines

Hydroconquest Blue Dial on Bracelet

  • Stainless Steel & Ceramic
  • Automatic
  • 41mm

About Dive Watches

A good dive watch should have a few key features. The most crucial aspect of a dive watch is its water resistance. A dive watch should be able to withstand water pressure up to at least 200 meters, with some models capable of handling depths up to 1000 meters or more.

Another important feature is the unidirectional rotating bezel, which allows divers to track elapsed time while underwater accurately. Dive watches should also be easy to read, with a clear and concise display that offers high contrast and good visibility in low-light conditions.

I favor a clean, uncomplicated dial sans the date window. However, that’s just a personal preference.  Finally, a good dive watch should be durable and able to withstand the rigors of underwater environments. Materials such as titanium, high-quality stainless steel (such as 316L and 904L), and ceramic are commonly used for dive watch cases, as they are tough and corrosion-resistant.

History of Dive Watches 

Ask a room full of horologists who made the first dive watch, and you might get a few different answers. Some will say Rolex with its 1926 Oyster case. Others will credit Omega’s 1930s Marine. Yet others will praise the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms, as it was the first to include all the traditional features one would expect in a modern dive watch. 

I can’t settle that debate, but I’ll say Rolex started something and clearly finished it when they later built, arguably, the most iconic diver; the Submariner. 

In the ‘40s and ‘50s, dive watches continued to evolve, with many new features and advancements being introduced. During World War II, dive watches became increasingly important for military operations, with brands like Rolex and Omega creating specialized watches for the military.

In the 1960s and 1970s, dive watches gained popularity among recreational divers, with many new models being released by various brands. These watches were designed to withstand greater depths and pressure, with some models featuring helium release valves to prevent the watch crystal from popping off during decompression. 

Should You Buy a 39mm Dive Watch? 

A 39mm dive watch is a perfect combination of form and function. Here are a few reasons why you should consider buying one:

1.          Size: The 39mm size is ideal for a dive watch, as it perfectly balances readability and wearability. 

2.          Style: 39mm dive watches come in a wide range of styles, from classic and timeless to modern and bold. They can be dressed up or down, making them versatile for any occasion.

3.          Durability: Dive watches are designed to withstand harsh environments and extreme conditions, making them a reliable tool for underwater activities. With features like water resistance, shock resistance, and scratch-resistant crystals, a 39mm dive watch is a durable investment that will last for years to come.

4.          Functionality: Dive watches offer useful features like unidirectional rotating bezels, luminous dials, and depth gauges, making them a reliable tool for divers. Even if you’re not a diver, these features make the watch practical for everyday use.

5.          Value: High-quality dive watches hold their value over time, making them a good investment. Many brands offer warranties and after-sales services, ensuring your watch stays in top condition and retains its value.

A 39mm dive watch is a wise choice for anyone looking for a smart-looking and functional timepiece that can withstand rigorous conditions. With its perfect size, durability, and versatility, a 39mm dive watch is a reliable tool that will also elevate your style game.

The Best 39mm Dive Watches for Men

TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 M79030N-0001

TUDOR BLACK BAY 58 M79030N-0001

The Black Bay 58 is a vintage-inspired diver-style watch. The brown/black bezel insert with rose gold appliqué is warm and reminds one of late ’50s dive watches, complete with a red triangle at the 12 o’clock position. The sword-shaped hands put off a ‘60s vibe.

The black dial features the modern Tudor shield logo, contrasted by their pre-1969 rose logo on the crown. So, there are a couple of eras represented in this timepiece. The watch sits at 12mm thick on the wrist, perhaps slightly thinner than a Rolex Submariner.

It will easily slide under a dress shirt. There’s some nice contrast on the case between polished and satin finishes. The watch is powered by the in-house MT5402 automatic with a 70-hour power reserve. In fact, the movement was specially designed for this timepiece to allow for a smaller case size of 39mm and a slimmer profile.

There’s a hacking seconds feature, and it’s water resistant up to 200m. There’s a Glidelock system to get the perfect micro fit and a secure clasp to keep the timepiece in place. 

Price: $3,950  

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M 215.30.40.20.01.001

OMEGA SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN 600M 215.30.40.20.01.001

The Seamaster Planet not only serves as a true professional dive watch, but it looks great doing it. It wears more substantial on the wrist at 14.3mm thick. It’s also heavy. The stainless steel case measures 39mm (technically 39.5mm). 

The black dial features a mix of numbers and indices. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The broad arrow minute hand pointing to the triangle index are both green-lumed, making it easy to time your dive, even in dark waters. The watch also features hacking seconds for precise timing. 

The timepiece is powered by the Calibre 8800 automatic with a 55-hour power reserve. There’s a helium-escape valve, and it’s water-resistant up to 600m. The three-link stainless steel bracelet offers a satin finish, and there’s an extension to fit over a wetsuit. 

Price: $6,700

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SEAQ 1-39-11-06-80-70

GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL SEAQ 1-39-11-06-80-70

The Glashütte SEAQ has classic dive watch looks. Its stainless steel case measures 39mm (39.5mm). The bezel and dial are black. The markings on the bezel are white, and the numbers and hands on the dial are a soft yellow.

There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The timepiece is powered by the 39-11 automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve. It’s respectably water resistant to 200m. 

One of the notable features of the SeaQ is its bracelet, which is made of stainless steel and features a folding clasp with a dive extension. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and complements the watch’s overall aesthetic perfectly.

Price: $9,900 

SEIKO PROSPEX SLA043

SEIKO PROSPEX SLA043

This Seiko Prospex model was introduced in 2020, marking it the 55th anniversary of the original 1965 Seiko dive watch. The stainless steel case measures 39mm, and the dial is a dark blue with chunky silver-lined indices and hands. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The edge of the case is a ribbed coin style. 

It’s powered by an automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve. It has a screw-down crown with 200m water resistance. The patterned silicone black strap features a tang buckle. This limited edition, with 1,700 in circulation, is the timepiece of choice for the Japanese Antarctic Expedition. 

Price: $4,500 

LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST L3.781.4.96.6

LONGINES HYDROCONQUEST L3.781.4.96.6

The Longines Hydroconquest 39mm is a beautiful and functional dive watch. This particular model features a stainless steel case and bracelet with a unidirectional rotating bezel.

The dial of the Hydroconquest is a sunburst blue, with appliqued indices and hands. The date window is located at the 3 o’clock position. The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters.

The movement powering the Hydroconquest is the automatic Calibre L888.2, which has a power reserve of up to 72 hours. 

The Hydroconquest three-link bracelet has polished center links and features a double security folding clasp with an integrated diving extension. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and fits securely on the wrist.

Price: $1,800

ORIS AQUIS 01 733 7732 4155-07 8 21 05PEB

ORIS AQUIS 01 733 7732 4155-07 8 21 05PEB

The Oris Aquis is a lovely and functional dive watch. The stainless steel case measures 39mm (39.5mm) with a unidirectional rotating bezel. 

The dial of the Aquis is a stunning shade of blue, with applique indices and hands. The date window is located at the 6 o’clock position and is easy to read. The watch is water-resistant up to 300 meters.

The movement powering the Aquis is the Oris 733, which is a self-winding movement with a power reserve of up to 41 hours. The three-link bracelet is made of stainless steel and features a folding clasp with an extension. The bracelet is comfortable to wear and fits securely on the wrist.

Price: $2,300

BALTIC AQUASCAPHE CLASSIC BLUE GILT 

BALTIC AQUASCAPHE CLASSIC BLUE GILT 

The Baltic Aquascaphe Classic Blue Gilt is a chic dive watch with vintage vibes and a modern touch. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a unidirectional rotating bezel. The bezel has a dark blue inlay. The dial of the Aquascaphe features a sunray blue that is nearly black at the edges.

The movement powering the Aquascaphe is the automatic Miyota 9039, which has a power reserve of up to 42 hours. The watch is water-resistant up to 200 meters. The tropic diamond patterned black strap gives it a sporty look. 

Price: $630 

YEMA SUPERMAN 500 YSUP22A39-AMS1

YEMA SUPERMAN 500 YSUP22A39-AMS1

Yema is a French watch company that was founded in 1948 by Henry Louis Belmont. The name “Yema” was derived from the French words “Yachting Timer”. Originally, Yema focused on producing timepieces for yachtsmen and sailors, but it quickly expanded its product line to include watches for other sports and activities.

The Yema Superman is a dive watch that was introduced in 1963. It quickly gained popularity among divers for its durability, reliability, and innovative features. The first version of the Superman, known as the “Skin Diver,” was water-resistant to 300 meters and featured a unidirectional rotating bezel.

Today’s Superman 500 is made of ultra-high quality 316L stainless steel (as expected for a luxury dive watch), which is resistant to corrosion from salt water. Its black glossy dial, cream printed markers, and simple, uncluttered, no-date design make for a highly readable dial, even underwater. 

The case measures 39mm and sits high at 13.4mm thick. One drawback some have mentioned is the long lugs. They make it difficult to find other aftermarket straps. However, the steel bracelet that comes with it is a rather handsome design that’s thin and light. It features a glide system and can extend to fit over a wetsuit. 

The timepiece has a screw-down crown and is water-resistant to 500m. Making this a serious dive watch. It’s powered by a YEMA2000 in-house movement with a 42-hour power reserve. This is an excellent dive watch, for the price, with solid vintage looks. 

Price: $1,250

OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 1957 TRILOGY 234.10.39.20.01.001

OMEGA SEAMASTER 300 1957 TRILOGY 234.10.39.20.01.001

The Omega Seamaster 300 1957 Trilogy is an attractive homage to the original Seamaster 300 that was introduced in 1957, but the build quality and features you’d expect from a modern luxury timepiece. The watch is part of Omega’s Trilogy collection, which celebrates the brand’s most iconic models from the past.

The Seamaster 300 1957 Trilogy is powered by Omega’s Caliber 8806 movement, which is certified as a Master Chronometer by METAS. It has a power reserve of up to 55 hours and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss, ensuring exceptional accuracy and durability.

The watch’s black dial is adorned with vintage-style but highly luminescent hour markers and hands. The unidirectional rotating bezel, made from black aluminum, is true to the watches of the era which it pays tribute to. The case, which has a diameter of 39mm, is made of stainless steel and is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters.

One of the notable features of the Seamaster 300 1957 Trilogy is the “lollipop” seconds hand, which is a nostalgic tip of the hat to the original model. The bracelet features contrasting satin and polished links. The clasp is substantial with a push button slider.

Price: $7,050  

TUDOR PELAGOS 39 M25407N-0001

TUDOR PELAGOS 39 M25407N-0001

The Tudor Pelagos is the perfect accessory for adventure seekers and diving enthusiasts who appreciate superior craftsmanship and attention to detail. The Pelagos’ robust 39mm grade 2 titanium case is lightweight, durable, and resistant to corrosion.

The watch also features a unidirectional ceramic bezel with a coin edge. The watch is powered by the in-house Calibre MT5400 automatic with a power reserve of up to 70 hours, providing optimal precision and accuracy. It’s water resistant to 200m.

The Pelagos has a black sunray dial that, in some lights, can appear gray. There’s a bit of an overhang with the bezel, in contrast to the Black Bay 58 model. The Pelagos, however, is slightly thinner, measuring 11.8mm on the wrist. 

The stain-finished titanium bracelet has a glide-fit system and a diver’s extension to fit over a wetsuit. The folding clasp is well-done and similar to a Rolex Submariner with the overhang of the Tudor symbol. It also comes with a rubber strap

This is a truly handsome timepiece that looks and feels well-made at less than half the price of the big brother Submariner. 

Price: $4,600 

HALIOS FAIRWIND

HALIOS FAIRWIND

Halios is a well-respected Canadian-based microbrand watch company that has been making waves in the industry since its inception in 2009. The brand is known for its attention to detail, commitment to quality, and aesthetic appeal, making it a favorite among watch collectors and enthusiasts worldwide.

The Fairwind model has historically sold out quickly, sometimes in 20 minutes or less. This has created demand, driving up the price on the secondhand market. This has led some to call Halios the Rolex of microbrands. 

The Fairwind model offers an all-stainless steel construction, with the case measuring 39mm. The watch measures 12.4mm thick, including the domed crystal. The dial has a nice vintage look and comes in two color options, blue and gray. It has thin silver-lined hands, in contrast to its chunky indices. The seconds hand has an orange triangle tip. 

The bracelet nicely contrasts between a polished and brushed finish. The 60-stop, bidirectional bezel has a solid feel. The timepiece is powered by SW200-1 self-winding movement with no date. It has a 40-hour power reserve and is water resistant to 200m.

Price: $775  

SQUALE SUB-39 SUPERBLUE SUB-39-RD

SQUALE SUB-39 SUPERBLUE SUB-39-RD

Squale, French for Shark, is a Swiss company that started as a case maker. They made watch cases for many fine, notable watch companies. Squale started making their own timepieces under the direction of founder Charles von Büren. Büren was a passionate diver, and his own research drove the engineering of their dive watches.

In fact, they’re credited for making the first 1,000m dive watch, without the need for a helium escape valve, back in 1967. The latest Sub-39 is a smart-looking dive watch with a 39mm stainless steel case (real-world measurements might be a touch larger) and bezel.

The dial comes in a beautiful shade of blue that instantly sends one on a mental vacation to somewhere tropical. There’s a date window at the 3 o’clock position, adding a touch of functionality. It’s powered by a Stellita SW 200-1 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve.

It’s water-resistant to 300m. The timepiece comes with a blue perforated rubber strap with a tangle buckle. It might just be the perfect dive watch, especially at a steal of a price. 

Price: $1,380 

LORIER NEPTUNE

LORIER NEPTUNE

Lorier is a young watch brand with a unique approach to watchmaking. Founded by a husband and wife in New York City in 2018, the company’s mission is to create high-quality timepieces inspired by vintage designs from the 60s and 70s. The brand’s watches are known for their sophisticated, minimalist aesthetic and attention to detail.

Lorier’s designers pay meticulous attention to every aspect of the watch, from the typeface on the dial to the shape of the hands. The result is a collection of timeless and contemporary watches with a sense of refinement that belies their affordable price point.

The Neptune model takes you on a trip back in time to 1957 with its classic, vintage looks. Everything feels authentic, from its black dial and gilt details to its acrylic bezel insert. Wearing this watch, one can almost imagine themselves on the swim deck of a yacht, in international waters with James Bond actor Sean Connery.

Ready to embark on an underwater exploration of some supervillain’s sinister underwater lab. But I’m getting a little carried away. Under the hood of the timepiece, you’ll find a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement with no date. It’s respectably water resistant to 200m. Made of marine-grade stainless steel, the 39mm case, and three-link bracelet, with push button clasp and micro-adjustment, round out the timepiece handsomely. 

Price: $499  

SERICA DIVE WATCH 5303-1

SERICA DIVE WATCH 5303-1

Serica is a small French company headquartered in Paris. They’ve made some noteworthy budget timepieces. The name derives from a distant trading outpost of the silk road. Serica’s diver has unique good looks with early dive watch vibes.

The classic 39mm (perhaps a touch smaller real-world measurement) stainless steel case and its black bezel are well done. The velvety smoothness of the unidirectional bezel is remarkable. The black dial, with painted white hands, features a distinctive inward arrangement of some of its indices. 

The Swiss Calibre Newton is a modest automatic movement with a respectable 44-hour power reserve. With a solid screw-down crown, it’s water-resistant to 300m. There’s also a GMT second time-zone feature. The bracelet is made of a thin, foldable shark mesh that further adds to the individuality of this timepiece. 

Price: $1,175

STEINHART OCEAN 39 BLUE CERAMIC 103-0724

STEINHART OCEAN 39 BLUE CERAMIC 103-0724

Founded in 2001 by watchmaker Gunther Steinhart, the company is based in Augsburg, Germany. They’re known for producing homage watches, and it seems they’re especially inspired by Rolex. All of their watches are powered by solid Swiss moments.

They’re also known to only sell their watches online. The Ocean 39 Blue Ceramic features a 39mm stainless steel case. The dial is a mother-of-pearl blue with silver-lined hands and indices. At the 3 o’clock position is a magnified date window.

The watch sits at about 13mm on the wrist. The timepiece is powered by an ETA 2824-2/SW 200 automatic movement. It’s water resistant to 300m. The watch comes with a respectable stainless steel three-link bracelet with a safety deployment clasp. 

Price: $535

Parting Thoughts

If you’re in the market for a dive watch that offers a perfect blend of style, functionality, and wearability, then any of the top 39mm dive watches explored in this article would be an excellent choice. With their durable construction, versatile design, and top-notch features, these watches are sure to impress. Even if you’re not a diver, these tool watches offer many useful features and make for a good daily watch or a special addition to your collection.

Best white dial dive watches

It seems that most watch enthusiasts point to Sean Connery wearing a Rolex Submariner with a white dinner jacket in Dr.No as the epitome of cool and a testament to the versatility of dive watches. While sartorial experts may argue, pop culture has deemed a dive watch one of the most versatile watches one could own. 

Dive watches are built to withstand the pressure of going deep underwater, along with the associated potential hardships of being in an aquatic vessel before and after a dive. Because of this, they can surely handle the commute. 

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Their design origins are strictly utilitarian. The case must be durable, and the dial must be legible in all lighting situations. These priorities have lent their way to clean, purposeful designs that speak to a variety of people, regardless of their aquatic intentions. 

With utility being the focus, color and whimsy fall by the wayside. A black dial with white, glowing indices makes sense, and Doxa’s experimentation with color resulted in Jacques-Yves Cousteau favoring their now-famous orange dial because of its increased legibility under water. 

As the importance of mechanical dive watches fades with professional divers utilizing more modern technology, the design of dive watches is allowed to be freer. Today, we see various interpretations of dive watches that stray from their purposeful design, including white-dialed dive watches

Our Top 3 Picks

Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Blancpain

Fifty Fathoms Nageurs de Combat Automatic

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 45mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Longines

Legend Diver Watch MOP Dial

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 36mm
Big Bang Unico Green Saxem

Omega

Seamaster Diver 300m Master Chronometer 42mm 210.30.42.20.04.001

  • Stainless Steel
  • Automatic
  • 42mm

About Dive Watches

As mentioned, dive watches are built to be used underwater. The original purpose was to time the elapsed time of a dive. This was incredibly important, as it allowed a diver to time how much oxygen they had left in their tank. The rotating bezel was set to the start time, allowing for fast reading of how much time has passed.

Original dive watches had bezels that spun in both directions, which could add time to the dive, meaning the diver could run out of oxygen. Unidirectional ratcheting bezels made certain that they only moved in one direction, potentially shortening the dive instead of lengthening it. 

With timing being a true life-or-death matter, increased water resistance and legibility were necessary. Most divers will never go to the depths that their watches are rated to. Except for certain situations such as saturation diving, having a 300m rated dive watch is more of an insurance policy than a necessity when diving. 

Additionally, legibility, especially in low-light situations, is very important. As divers descend deeper into the water, sunlight decreases. If your watch floods with water and you cannot read what time you are supposed to go back up, its functionality is greatly diminished. 

History of Dive Watches

Dust and moisture have been the bane of watchmakers since the mechanical watch came into being. Various methods of sealing the movement have come about, with some more successful than others. The most notable improvement came about in 1926, with Rolex introducing its first Oyster case.

With a screw-down crown and screw-in caseback, practical water resistance took a massive leap forward. Omega came out with the first purpose-built dive watch in 1932, the Omega Marine. While it looks nothing like the dive watches of today, the inner case slid into an outer case that, when clamped down, sealed the watch.

Additionally, it was one of the first watches to use a sapphire crystal. These developments allowed the watch to dive to the bottom of Lake Geneva, for a total of 73 meters. Pressure chamber testing later determined a total pressure rating of 135 meters.

In 1936, the Panerai Radiomir was first produced, introducing a large dial and luminous paint for nighttime and dark water legibility.  Jumping to 1953, Rolex produced its first Deep Sea prototype, which survived a depth of 3150 meters in 1953, and then 10,916 meters in 1960, thanks to a large domed sapphire crystal.

While still not a dive watch by modern standards, it was another large improvement in water resistance technology. The world did not see what we recognize as a modern dive watch until 1953 with the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms.

The following year, Rolex released its Submariner, and 1957 saw the release of the Omega Seamaster. These watches all featured legible black dials, luminous markers and hands, screw-down crowns and case backs, and a rotating timing bezel. While designs have definitely been modernized, dive watches have largely stayed the same for the last 70 years. 

Should You Buy A White Dial Dive Watch?

With legibility being a key part of dive watch design, it makes sense that most dive watches have dark dials with white or light-colored indices and hands. A white dial seems to be an act of defiance compared to the original purpose of these tool watches.

With mechanical dive watches having been largely replaced by dive computers, this frees mechanical dive watches up to be more fashion-oriented than their original intention. White-dialed dive watches are usually still highly legible on dry land during the day; it is dim lighting and shallow water where white dials are not as legible.

Even if white-dialed dive watches do not seem as immediately practical as their dark-dialed counterparts, some offer improved visibility with various dial and indices treatments. Others do focus on a bold look, as a mostly white watch will stand out on the wrist more than a dark dial. Because of the brighter look, they will appear more youthful, lending themselves to vibrant strap choices. 

The Best White Dial Dive Watches

Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.04.001) 

Omega Seamaster Professional Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.04.001) 

When the wave dial motif returned to the Seamster in 2018, enthusiasts were ecstatic. ETA movements were no longer used, and Omega introduced the Caliber 8800 to the Seamaster Professional. This METAS Master Chronometer certified movement features increased anti-magnetism rated to above 15,000 gauss.

It has a certified accuracy of -0/+6 seconds a day, ensuring a high level of practical accuracy for a mechanical watch. The 42mm wide stainless steel case is larger than prior generations, making the watch bolder on the wrist, with thicker lugs and case height and an updated thicker bracelet.

The white-dialed Seamaster Diver 300m features black outlined indices and hands, which aids in visibility, especially considering the white dial. The Omega Seamaster Professional Diver is no slouch. With 300 meters of water resistance and a helium release valve, it can handle saturation diving. 

The variety of polished and brushed finishes on the case and bracelet though contribute to its versatility, allowing it to go from boardroom to board shorts if this matches your style. The white dial Omega Seamster Professional Diver retails for $5600 on the bracelet, which is a bargain considering the technology, finishing, and innovation included in this timepiece.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique White Dial (ref. 5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique White Dial (ref. 5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain was the first brand to develop what we would consider a modern dive watch in 1953, beating Rolex by one year. Their Fifty-Fathoms line is their flagship dive watch, taking inspiration from the original design from 1953. 

The Fifty Fathoms uses an in-house caliber 1315, which is a fairly high-jeweled movement with 35 jewels and a 120-hour power reserve. While t he finishing may look spartan in photos, in real life, the movement decoration is quite detailed and done to a high level, with large beveled edges and detailed brushwork on the plates.

With its white dial, silver hands, and silver with white luminescent indices, legibility will be compromised some. However, with the white bezel covered with a sapphire insert, and white strap, this watch is more about making a statement than being a fully functional tool watch. 

The bold looks do not detract from the watch’s durability, as it is rated to 300 meters of water resistance. Additionally, there is still enough lume on the dial and bezel to track the time during aquatic adventures.

This reference is no longer in the Blancpain catalog. However, searching and patience should allow for a good example to come up on the secondary market. 

Panerai Luminor Marina White (ref. PAM01314) 

Panerai Luminor Marina White (ref. PAM01314) 

Panerai was responsible for developing one of the first aquatic-oriented watches. Their first model, the Radiomir, had a large dial with a luminescence that allowed it to be legible underwater and in low-light situations, a requirement of the Italian Navy in 1938. 

The second model they introduced, the Luminor, increased the water resistance by including a crown-locking mechanism, which boldly sits on the right side of the case. In addition to the large crown mechanism, another hallmark of Panerai is its use of sandwich dials. 

This multi-layer dial construction consists of the lower layer containing luminescent paint, and the upper dial has the numerals and indices cut out, allowing for them to glow in low-light environments. 

While the monochromatic look of the white dial and grey indices may seem dull, leave it to Panerai to make it a bold-looking watch. The 44mm case is large, but Panerai watches have always been large, so it does come with the territory.

Should something smaller be necessary, Panerai does offer similar watches in smaller sizes. Inside the PAM01314 is the Panerai P.9010 calibre. The movement utilizes two mainspring barrels to achieve a 72-hour power reserve.

The watch is rated to 300 meters of water resistance, making it more than water ready. Famously, Panerai fans known as Paneristi have a thriving online community, sharing their watches and daring strap combinations. The Panerai PAM01314 retails for $8400.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver (ref. WBP201DFT6197) 

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver (ref. WBP201DFT6197) 

The TAG Heuer Night Diver’s calling card is not just its white dial but the entirely lumed dial. The large 43mm black DLC coated steel case, black ceramic bezel, and textured white dial will make a statement on the wrist. 

The dial has white lumed indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and black indices for the remainder, with a date at 6 o’clock as well. The black indices on a white dial are very bold and striking. As mentioned, the entire dial is lumed, meaning the white dial glows green in the dark. 

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Night Diver should definitely be considered if low-light legibility is a top concern. The attached rubber strap includes a micro-adjust clasp, making for easy adjustments without tools. The movement inside is an ETA, or Sellita-based ebauche TAG Heuer refers to as their Calibre 5. 

The black case and luminescent dial won’t be as flexible with wardrobes compared to other watches on this list, but making a statement seems to be the name of the game here.

Retailing at $3750, the TAG Heuer Night Diver does seem a bit expensive compared to similar dive watches, but few watches have such a bold, high-contrast look, especially from a well-known brand. 

Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.80.0) 

Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.80.0) 

Longines was one of the first brands to bring heritage-inspired designs to their modern catalog. The brand first released the Legend Diver in 2007, but the 42mm size, while true to the original, wore quite large for many wrists. 

The 36mm size was introduced in 2019 and is true to other super compressors style divers of the time. The Legend Diver 36 wears like a vintage watch, measuring only 11.9mm thick, which is quite impressive for a 300m dive watch. Because of the inner rotating bezel, the dial does appear a bit smaller than usual, but the long lugs ensure some presence on the wrist.

The dial on this model is a white Mother of Pearl, adding more of a jewelry element to the timepiece. Reading the dial under normal light should be easy, considering the numerals and indices are black. But, low-light situations will be difficult as there is minimal lume on the dial. 

If emphasizing the jewelry element is desired, there is a mesh bracelet option as well. If the Mother of Pearl is a bit showy, there is also a beige version released in 2022. Recent updates to the model include a silicone balance and a 5-year warranty.

The Longines Legend Diver 36mm retails for $2,400 on the white strap and $2,500 on the Milanese-style bracelet. 

Oris Aquis Date 36.5mm White Dial (ref. 01 733 7731 4151-07 4 18 63FC) 

Oris Aquis Date 36.5mm White Dial (ref. 01 733 7731 4151-07 4 18 63FC) 

Oris has become an enthusiast favorite in the last several years. Operating as an independent company, they have been relatively swift to react to enthusiast requests. Additionally, they have offered a relatively high value per dollar, with a solid case, dial, and bracelet finishing for the money. 

The Aquis line is the brand’s modern dive watch collection. Offered on both bracelets and scented rubber straps, the integrated design of the lugs contributes to the bold look of the diver. 

This white dial, ceramic bezel, and rubber strap version make this watch feel ready for summer adventures. While 36.5mm will seem like a great choice for smaller watch fans, these watches wear a bit smaller than their stated dimensions. Inside the 300-meter rated steel case is the Oris 733, which is based on the SW200-1.

The movement is customized with a red rotor, a signature of the brand. Should you be quite slight of wrist and looking for a stylish diver, the 36.5mm Oris Aquis Date is definitely a watch to consider. This model has been discontinued, but they continue to offer the Aquis in a variety of sizes and colors.

Doxa Sub 200 Whitepearl Automatic (ref. 799.10.011.23)

Doxa Sub 200 Whitepearl Automatic (ref. 799.10.011.23)

Doxa’s history has been deeply rooted in dive watches since the 1960s. The SUB300T was developed in association with Jacques Cousteau and was the source of the signature dual-scale bezel. The white-dialed SUB 200 is a less serious but still capable offering amongst Doxa’s timepieces.

It features a conventional 60-minute uni-directional bezel with 200 meters of water resistance and is available on a metal bracelet and color-matched rubber strap. The white dial features black indices surrounds, helping make the watch legible in a variety of environments. 

The SUB 200 also keeps Doxa’s signature case design, which wears much smaller than the stated 42mm case diameter would suggest. Inside is an unspecified Swiss movement, with a 38-hour power reserve, 28,800 bph, and 26 jewels, suggesting it is likely a Sellita-based movement. 

The Doxa SUB 200 is ready for summer adventures and will look great on a variety of wrists, given the unique but largely compatible case dimensions. 

The Doxa SUB 200 retails for $990.

Breitling Superocean Heritage (ref. AB20303A1A1A1) 

Breitling Superocean Heritage (ref. AB20303A1A1A1) 

The Breitling Superocean Heritage has been a successful line for the brand. This 100-piece limited edition was released for the Greek market in 2022. Inside is the Breitling caliber B20, which is supplied by Tudor, based on their MT5612. The movement has a 70-hour power reserve and is chronometer-certified.

The vintage-inspired design, blue accents on the dial, and blue bezel should match a variety of attire and have a bold presence with its white dial and bold 44mm size. While the design is vintage-inspired, the modern movement and ceramic bezel are built to modern quality standards.

Given the limited edition nature of this reference, prices are currently dictated by the secondary market.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic (ref. ZO9291) 

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic (ref. ZO9291) 

Zodiac Watches is a brand that is currently operated by the Fossil Group, which recently has seemed to work well for them. They have focused on releases inspired by vintage designs from the 1950s and 60s and modernizing them in terms of materials and proportions. 

The Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic seen here is 40mm wide, is rated to 200 meters of water resistance, and features a bright white dial with bright blue accents. To aid in legibility, the hours and seconds hands, along with the minute indices borders, are different shades of blue from the rest of the watch. 

The dial is covered with a sapphire crystal, but the bezel insert is covered by a mineral bezel, meaning it will scratch fairly easily, but will not shatter as easily compared to sapphire or ceramic. Inside is Zodiac’s own STP 1-11 movement. Created as a replacement for the ETA 2824, so operational and size specifications are largely interchangeable. 

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Compression Automatic retails for $1595.

Baltic Aquascaphe Classic White 

Baltic Aquascaphe Classic White 

The Baltic Aquascaphe was the brand’s first dive watch. This French brand has taken the enthusiast community by storm by offering vintage-inspired designs while still making them very unique to the brand. Additionally, quality has been relatively high while keeping the prices very reasonable.

Having owned a Baltic timepiece, it is very close to buying a vintage watch, brand new today. The Aquascaphe features a 38mm stainless steel case (measuring 39mm at the sapphire bezel) with a sapphire crystal and is rated to 200 meters of water resistance. The movement inside is a Miyota 9039, which has been proven to be a reliable caliber.

With a modern movement and usable water resistance, the Baltic Aquascaphe will be more than capable of handling aquatic outings. Baltic also offers a variety of bracelet and strap options, including a white rubber strap and a flat-link style bracelet, allowing you to make the watch as bold or subdued as desired. Both also include quick-release spring bars, so swapping straps will be facile. 

The Baltic Aquascaphe Classic in white retails for approx. $650.

Seiko Turtle SPB313J1 

Seiko Turtle SPB313J1

This Seiko Modern Re-interpretation is considered a “Turtle” because of the similar case shape and 4 o’clock crown as seen on the original Seiko Turtles. In this instance, Seiko has created what may be the most wearable Turtle to date. The SPB313J1 measures 41mm wide, 46.9 mm lug to lug, and a svelte 12.3mm thick, making it the thinnest Seiko automatic diver to date. 

The hardened 200-meter-rated stainless steel case houses Seiko’s 6R35 movement, which boasts a 70-hour power reserve. The white dial with black accents is covered by a sapphire crystal, with an anti-reflective coating on the inside, allowing for easy reading of the time. The four o’clock date is well done, as it is color matched to the dial, and Seiko’s unique number font appears well-matched to the rest of their designs. 

The SPB313J1 retails for $1100.

Marathon GSAR Arctic Edition (ref. WW194006SS-0530) 

Marathon GSAR Arctic Edition (ref. WW194006SS-0530) 

Marathon is a Canadian brand that has built its reputation by supplying watches for military outfits. If legibility and durability are your top concerns while still being mechanical, this Marathon may be the best bet.

The GSAR series (Government Search and Rescue) consists of no-nonsense dive watches capable of handling the harshest environments. The stainless steel case is rated to 300 meters, and the sapphire crystal covers a dial lumed with tritium gas tubes, ensuring they will glow brightly in any situation. 

The uni-directional bezel is large and has deep grooves, making turning the bezel with gloves easy. Inside, the Sellita SW-200 beats away inside, with Incablock shock absorbers. 

Pictured here in 41mm, there are also 36mm and 46mm versions, so finding one that fits should be easy. The Marathon GSAR Arctic Edition 41mm starts at $1500 on a rubber strap. 

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 White Dial 

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 White Dial

The Trident collection has been a mainstay for Christopher Ward. Since 2005, they have managed to evolve their timepieces to compete in terms of case and dial, finishing with some of the much bigger brands at a fraction of the price. A combination of business decisions and a direct-to-consumer model allow them to keep their prices relatively low and quality high.

This version of the Trident, the C60 Trident Pro 600, is one of their more robust models, featuring 600 meters of water resistance. The 42mm steel case features its “light-catcher design,” boasting a myriad of brushed and polished finishes.

The white dial is lumed with X1 GL C1 rated SuperLuminova, which is claimed to be some of the brightest available. The ceramic bezel is lumed as well. Inside, the movement powering the watch is a Sellita SW200-1. The 22mm wide bracelet features quick-release spring bars and also has a ratcheting micro-adjustment clasp, a premium feature more expensive brands often lack. 

The Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600 retails for $1145.

Sinn 104 White Dial (ref. 104.012) 

Sinn 104 White Dial (ref. 104.012) 

Sinn’s reputation consists of building utility-driven tool watches, and the 104 is no different. Billed as a pilot’s watch instead of a diver, the 104 is still aquatic capable with 200 meters of water resistance. The watch is also low-pressure resistant, protecting the crystal from dislodging in low-pressure situations (such as an airplane cabin). 

The gloss white dial has black outlined indices and hands, both of which are lumed. The bezel is a captive design, meaning the bezel is attached to the watch via screws while still maintaining the ability to turn it easily. Conventional bezels snap into place, allowing the potential for them to be knocked off. With a captive bezel design, the bezel is much more secure. 

Sinn uses a Sellita SW220-1 in the 104, but the brand states inventory may vary due to the availability of movements. Previous iterations have used ETA movements, which is likely the cause of this statement. While technically focused, the back side of the 41mm case has a display case back, allowing for a view of the movement. 

Prices for the Sinn 104 start at $1640 on a leather strap. 

VICTORINOX I.N.O.X Professional Diver Titanium (ref. 241811) 

VICTORINOX I.N.O.X Professional Diver Titanium (ref. 241811) 

While Victorinox is more famous for its knives, they have also developed some capable watches over the years. The I.N.O.X. series was developed to be one of the most durable Swiss-made watches ever made. Boasting 130 endurance durability tests, these watches are made to withstand the worst that a watch owner could throw at them.

Seen here in titanium, the 45mm wide case is rated to 200 meters of water resistance, certified anti-magnetic, and is an ISO 6425 certified dive watch. Inside is a Ronda quartz caliber 715, which aids in durability and has a 10-year battery life. Adding some fun to the dial, the outer minute track fades between red, orange, and yellow.

If the large dial and lumed indices and hands were not enough to make the watch easy to read, Victorinox includes a protective bumper and removable magnifying glass for when underwater adventures could get very rough. When durability and looking good are your concerns, the Victorinox I.N.O.X. Professional Diver will have you covered.

The Victorinox I.N.O.X Professional Diver Titanium retails for $695.

Conclusion

Dive watches are rooted in functionality, as their purpose is a matter of life and death. As technology has progressed and better tools have been developed, analog dive watches have lost their utility. Still, the purpose-driven design attracts many watch enthusiasts, as having an overbuilt watch brings both peace of mind and romanticism to ownership. 

Additionally, since function is less of a concern, designs are allowed the space to experiment with different colors. These watches are still fully capable of handling serious dive duty, but the bold white dials are more statement oriented than tool-focused. Regardless, they will all be faithful companions underwater and on dry land. 

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