If there’s one thing Grand Seiko does exceedingly well, it’s hypnotizing us with the inimitable beauty of Japan, which it imbues into each of its watch dials.
Every dial that leaves the Shinshu Studio tells a unique story, capturing the essence of time and reflecting the profound dedication of the artisans who create them.
When you gaze upon a Grand Seiko dial, you witness the embodiment of Japanese aesthetics and the pursuit of perfection. The dials are meticulously crafted with a level of precision that reflects the brand’s commitment to excellence.
The simplicity of design and the clean lines instill a feeling of calmness, inviting you to escape the noise of the world and embrace a moment of quiet reflection. This, dear friends, is what sets Grand Seiko dials on a league of its own.
As we explore the fascinating stories behind these dials, you’ll find that they truly are a visual representation of the Japanese concept of “ma”. Ma means the art of space and interval, where the pauses between elements are just as meaningful as the elements themselves. Let’s go!
Our Top 3 Picks
Grand Seiko
Snowflake SBGA211 Spring Drive Titanium Power Reserve
Grand Seiko, aka the high-achieving sibling of Seiko, was launched in 1960 with the establishment of the Suwa Seikosha factory in Suwa, Nagano Prefecture, Japan.
The aim was to create excellent timepieces embodying the highest precision, durability, and aesthetic standards.
The first Grand Seiko watch, known by its movement name, the 3180, was unveiled the same year. It featured a highly accurate mechanical movement, precise to within -3 to +5 seconds per day, which was an impressive achievement for that time.
The design of the watch reflected the simplicity and understated elegance that would become the hallmark of Grand Seiko.
Throughout the 1960s, Grand Seiko watches gained recognition for their exceptional precision and reliability. They were favored by professionals such as doctors, engineers, and businesspeople who required accurate timekeeping. Grand Seiko’s reputation grew not only in Japan but also in international markets.
In the 1970s, Seiko introduced quartz technology to its watchmaking, and Grand Seiko was among the first to incorporate quartz movements.
In 2017, Seiko announced that Grand Seiko would become an independent brand, separate from the main Seiko line. This move aimed to elevate the status and recognition of Grand Seiko as a distinct luxury watch brand.
What Makes Grand Seiko Watches Stand Out?
For over 60 years, Grand Seiko has created meticulously handcrafted watches by skilled artisans who follow the philosophy of “Shinshoku”. This means “the essence of the true watch”. It is an uncommon dedication to outstanding craftsmanship which ensures every watch is of exceptional quality.
Here are some key factors that make Grand Seiko special and contribute to its popularity and desirability:
Superior Build Quality
Grand Seiko watches are made in Japan, where there is a long-standing tradition of exceptional craftsmanship. Japanese artisans are known for their meticulous attention to detail and pursuit of perfection, which is reflected in the quality of Grand Seiko timepieces.
The cases are typically made from stainless steel or precious metals like gold or platinum, ensuring durability and longevity. The crystals are made of scratch-resistant sapphire, which is highly transparent and provides excellent protection to the dial.
The level of finishing in its watches is rarely seen in other timepieces thanks to a traditional Japanese technique called Zaratsu polishing. Derived from Japanese sword polishing, Zaratsu involves the skillful pressing of metal against abrasive surfaces, resulting in distortion-free, perfectly reflective surfaces with sharp edges.
Grand Seiko watches are also built to last for generations, and the brand maintains strict quality control measures to ensure that every watch meets the highest possible standards.
Before the manufactured timepieces leave the factory, stringent accuracy checks, water resistance testing, and aesthetic evaluations are carried out.
It’s no wonder the brand warrants free repair and adjustment service against any defects on their watches for up to five years from the date of purchase.
High-End Movements
Grand Seiko’s movements have always been a show of mechanical ingenuity and complexity.
Just four years after its establishment, the brand joined the competition for the ranking of its movements in the Neuchatel chronometer testing.
During this trial, a series of the most stringent, thorough accuracy evaluations were conducted. After just about three years, Grand Seiko’s movements leaped from its position in the hundreds to being in the top 10.
The brand’s dedication to precision, craftsmanship, and attention to detail has remained unwavering and is reflected in the creation of its movements.
To make each movement, components such as the mainplate, bridges, gears, and springs are manufactured with great precision.
The majority of Grand Seiko’s movements are made in-house, ensuring strict quality control. Advanced CNC (Computer Numerical Control) machines and high-precision tools are used to fabricate these components, after which skilled watchmakers assemble the movement by hand.
Once the movement is assembled, it undergoes a series of meticulous tests and adjustments. The watchmakers regulate the movement to ensure accurate timekeeping within the specified tolerances.
Various tests, including timing tests and power reserve tests, are conducted to verify the movement’s performance and reliability.
The watchmakers then meticulously polish and decorate the movement’s surfaces, including the bridges, plates, and screws, to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the movement.
Grand Seiko movement can be grouped into three broad families, namely, Caliber 9F quartz movements, Caliber 9S mechanical movements (which include automatic and manual winding), and Caliber 9R Spring Drive movements.
Exquisite Dial Designs
Grand Seiko dials are meticulously made by skilled artisans who take great pride in their work. The level of precision and dedication put into creating these dials can evoke emotions of awe and appreciation for the artistry involved.
From the mesmerizing sunburst patterns to the intricate textures, each dial evokes a sense of beauty and delight, creating a strong emotional bond between the watch and its owner.
Grand Seiko has developed a distinct design language, often characterized by clean lines, refined aesthetics, centuries-old Japanese artistry, and modern innovations.
Most Popular Grand Seiko Dials
Grand Seiko dials express the resplendent and inimitable beauty of Japan. Simply staring at the dials from the brand feels like one is being transported to Shinshu Studio, where all the action takes place.
The brand draws inspiration for its dials from various sources, including nature, traditional Japanese craftsmanship, and the unique cultural heritage of Japan.
The term “snowflake” describes a particular pattern found on the dial’s surface, which resembles the texture and sparkle of freshly fallen snow.
The snowflake dial, which has become one of Grand Seiko’s most popular designs, was introduced to capture the beauty and essence of Japanese winters.
The inspiration behind the snowflake dial can be traced to the natural landscapes of Shinshu, a region in central Japan where the Grand Seiko Studio is located. Shinshu is renowned for its heavy snowfall during the winter season, creating a serene and breathtaking environment.
The distinct texture of this dial is achieved through a technique called “Diamond Dust” or “Miyuki”. Skilled craftsmen apply a series of fine, needle-like cuts to the dial’s surface, creating a three-dimensional pattern that resembles the crystalline structure of snowflakes.
After texturing, multiple translucent layers of a specially formulated coating are applied to the dial’s surface. The coated dial then undergoes a curing process, where it is heated and cooled to ensure the layers adhere properly and achieve the desired texture and color.
Once the dial has been cured, it undergoes meticulous finishing processes, such as polishing and cleaning, giving the dial the appearance of fresh snow with a flawless surface.
Few watches featuring the Snowflake dial include the references SBGA211, SBGA011, SBGA259, and the SBGA407 with its gorgeous Blue Snowflake dial.
“Minamo” is a Japanese word that means “water’s surface” or “water pattern”. Thus, a Minamo dial is one with a design that resembles the rippling effect of water.
Grand Seiko’s Minamo dials are inspired by the gentle sway of the water surface of Lake Suwa, which lies close to the Shinshu Watch Studio.
The overall pattern and desired visual effect evoke a sense of freshness, purity, calmness, tranquility, and depth.
The design concept for the dial is developed, and then a base, usually of metal, is prepared. This serves as the canvas for the design and is coated with a layer of paint or a special finish.
Afterward, the water pattern is created using techniques such as pad printing, silk-screen printing, and/or hand-painting, where skilled artisans apply layers of paint or enamel to convey a feeling of serenity and tropical vibes.
Once the desired water pattern is achieved, the dial is often coated with a protective layer, such as clear lacquer or transparent enamel.
This coating not only helps preserve the dial’s design but also enhances its luster and durability. The Minamo Dial can be seen in the Ref. SLGA007, SLGA021, and SLGA019.
Spring Dial
One of the most recognizable features of spring is the blooming of flowers and trees. As temperatures rise, plants awaken from their winter dormancy and begin to sprout new leaves and flowers, adding vibrant colors to the landscape.
Grand Seiko Spring dials incorporate delicate floral patterns which instantly bring to mind the beauty of spring. The designs evoke thoughts of blossoming flowers, leaves, or intricate botanical motifs.
The process involves talented artists creating miniature paintings on watch dials that depict scenes of spring-related motifs. These delicate and detailed paintings are typically done by hand using specialized brushes and tiny paint strokes.
A soft pastel shade which is associated with springtime, like pink, is the popular color with spring dials. This creates a gentle and refreshing aesthetic on the watch dial, as seen in the Ref. SBGA413 and SBGY026.
The term “silken” describes a smooth and luxurious texture like silk sort of, while “sunray” refers to a pattern consisting of radiating lines that mimic the rays of the sun, which creates a visually striking effect. When combined, the terms imply a watch dial with a smooth and shiny surface adorned with a sunray pattern.
Shinshu was once a major center of silk production, and Grand Seiko pays tribute to this heritage with this invention.
A metallic base, such as stainless steel or brass, is smoothened by cleaning, polishing, and sometimes sandblasting or brushing. This process greatly removes all imperfections and creates a pristine backdrop for the sunray pattern.
A specialized machine or hand-operated engine then produces repetitive patterns on the metallic surface. These patterns radiate outwards from the center, resembling the rays of the sun. The lines’ depth, angle, and spacing are adjusted to achieve different variations of the sunray effect.
The dial is then polished to get a glossy finish that protects it from scratches and oxidation. The breathtaking Silken Sunray Dial can be seen in the Ref. SBGA437 and SBGP001.
Grand Seiko’s autumn dial is one of the most striking, detail-oriented, and fascinating dials ever created. During Fall, leaves on deciduous trees change from their vibrant green shades to hues of red, orange, yellow, and brown. The dials draw inspiration from these hues and offer us a visually appealing representation of the season.
Brass, stainless steel, or ceramic, which is used as a base, is prepared first. Afterward, a matte finish which creates a more subdued and rustic look, is worked out on the base.
Delicate patterns or the silhouette of a tree against a colorful backdrop are then engraved, embossed, or painted onto the dial surface.
Lastly, a protective coating, such as a layer of clear lacquer, is applied to safeguard the dial’s design and produce a reflective sheen. This striking dial can be seen in the SBGH269G.
Mount Iwate Dial
Mount Iwate, also known as Iwate-san, is a prominent mountain located in the Iwate Prefecture of Japan. It stands at an elevation of 2,038 meters (6,686 feet) and is considered one of the 100 Famous Japanese Mountains.
It holds significance in Japanese folklore and culture and is visible through the windows of Studio Shizukuishi, where the dials are made by the brand.
Mount Iwate dials incorporate elements or motifs inspired by this mountain. Textures or patterns reminiscent of its landscape, such as ridges, mountain silhouettes, or flowing lines that mimic its contours, are incorporated into the design of the dials.
The dials are then coated with Urushi lacquer, a sap obtained from the Urushi tree which has undergone a meticulous and time-consuming process of refinement. The mesmerizing dials can be found in the Ref.SBGJ201, SBGJ231, and SLGH019.
Whirlpool Dial
Grand Seiko’s whirlpool dials capture the essence of swirling water and convey a sense of energy and movement.
Whirlpools are characterized by a look that often resembles a rotating funnel, and so these dials feature concentric circles or spiraling patterns reminiscent of the motion of a whirlpool.
Gradient colors that transition from light to dark or vice versa are used to mimic the depth and movement of the water in a whirlpool, creating a visually striking effect.
The dial’s surface is then worked on to generate a textured finish, such as a sunburst or wave pattern, adding depth and aesthetical interest. The overall effect is nothing short of breathtaking, as can be seen in the Ref. SBGH267
The Birch tree is valued for its graceful appearance, practical uses, and distinctive bark. The bark is often white or light-colored, although some species exhibit shades of gray, brown, or even reddish-brown.
The tree is often associated with rebirth, purity, renewal, restoration, and rejuvenescence in various cultures thanks to its peeling bark.
Grand Seiko’s white Birch dial draws inspiration from this tree by incorporating elements reminiscent of the plant’s unique characteristics.
The dial features a combination of white, light gray, and soft brown tones to replicate the colors of birch tree bark. These colors create a visually appealing contrast and reflect the natural beauty of the tree.
The process involves incorporating subtle patterns that imitate the delicate markings found on birch bark. These patterns include thin, vertical lines or gentle curves arranged in a manner that replicates the organic flow of the tree’s bark patterns.
Relish the breathtaking dial in the Ref. SLGA009 and SLGH005G.
Fun fact: Grand Seiko’s White Birch watch (Hi-Beat 36000 80 Hours) won the Men’s Watch of the Year prize at the 2021 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
Soko Shadow Dial
Grand Seiko translates the Japanese word “Soko” to mean the end of Autumn.
The dial draws inspiration from the bewitching view of the forest when the first frost drops on it. It features a textured pattern that creates the illusion of shadows and depth, drawing you deeper with a mysterious spell as you stare into it. The texture is created through techniques like sunburst patterns or intricate motifs.
For a more visually appealing effect, contrasting elements, such as raised portions and recessed areas, are applied. The dial may then be brushed, matte, or satin-finished, while other areas may have a polished or glossy surface to further accentuate the contours and texture of the dial.
The dark grey dial of the SBGA429 is a flawless representation of the Soko Shadow Dial. It has been vertically brushed to reflect stalks in a bamboo forest, giving the face of the watch a three-dimensional appearance.
Kirazuri Dial
Bewitching, seductive, engrossing, and captivating. Those are the words that describe a Kirazuri Dial. Kira-Zuri is a decorative method that involves applying metallic or colored powders onto a lacquered surface to create intricate patterns or designs.
To make this type of dial, Grand Seiko uses a glossy base with a smooth, high-quality lacquered surface. Metallic or colored powders are delicately applied onto the lacquered surface, and the desired pattern is created.
The patterns appear raised or embossed, adding visual depth and creating an enthralling interplay of light and shadow. These dials are typically handcrafted by skilled artisans and can be savored in the references SBGA384, SBGA465, and SBGA387.
Hana-ikada Dial
Another dial inspired by nature, the textured appearance of this one takes notes from the floating cherry blossom petals. I’d say it does a pretty good job of conveying this look, not to mention the beautiful pink colorway.
Found with the Grand Seiko model SBGY026, there are only 100 pieces of this design ever made. A favorite for many enthusiasts, you can find this dial within the Elegance Collection Grand Seiko is known for.
The design choice in the dial also looks great alongside Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing, making for a nice contrast in any lighting. Even the case itself stands out in a rose gold colorway that really brings out the pink hue in the dial.
Regarding the watch in question, you’re getting a manually wound Spring Drive movement, including dual mainsprings. Not only is it beautiful on the wrist, but it’s sturdy and built to remain functional for the long term.
Conclusion
Now, go forth and immerse yourself in the world of Grand Seiko. Find that perfect dial that resonates with your soul, adorn your wrist with a timepiece that tells a story, and let the artistry of Grand Seiko accompany you on your journey through time.
Harnessing the power of the sun. It’s something even ancient civilizations like the Egyptians and the Greeks considered. They designed their architecture to follow the pattern of the sun to maximize natural light and heat.
It was the 19th-century discovery of the photovoltaic effect by French physicist Becquerel that would lay the groundwork for modern solar technology and the work of later scientists like Einstein, who won a Nobel Prize in 1921 for furthering the understanding of solar energy and, of course, the scientists at Bell Laboratories in the 1950s (and others) that got us to where we are today.
Facing environmental challenges and an energy crisis, many have turned to solar as a solution. Time and battery technology will tell if that’s realistic, but no one can argue that solar tech has come a long way. Whether it’s powering homes, cars, or watches, the modern tech is pretty impressive.
In this article, we’ll examine 20 of the best solar watches, from affordable to luxury brands and everything in between. Whether you’re driven by environmental virtues, cutting-edge technology, or convenience, there’s something here for everyone and every budget. We’ve thoroughly examined each of the timepieces we’ve selected to consider solar efficiency, aesthetics, consistency, ruggedness, luxury, and value for the money.
For those that want style and sustainability without compromise, let’s discover some remarkable watches that blend nature’s power with the best of human engineering and artistry.
About Solar Watches
Sustainability. It’s a corporate buzzword and a powerful movement. Not easy being green? No more. Kermit’s day has arrived. Everyone wants to be seen as “green”. Solar watches are one way to show you care for the planet.
They are also a modern technology alternative to quartz battery-powered watches. Let’s further explore the history of solar watches and why they’ve become a popular choice among watch experts and technology enthusiasts.
A Brief History
Solar watches have their roots in the space race. The final frontier of outer space demanded a way to power watches in remote places. The Hamilton Watch company was actually the one to pioneer this technology in the mid-1950s.
Hamilton’s Ventura model was powered by a miniaturized solar cell and really pushed the technology forward. However, this model wasn’t entirely solar-powered, as it required a battery to store the power.
By the 1970s and 80s, watch companies like Seiko and Citizen found ways to refine the technology and mass-produce it for the public.
Solar Advantages Over Quartz Movements
Green: Using the abundant power of the sun as the energy source for a timepiece requires significantly less reliance on disposable batteries. Those batteries eventually end up in landfills and can be a potential hazard.
Convenience: With solar power, replacing your watch battery is unnecessary. This saves the consumer time and money.
Long reserves: Today’s solar watches have long power reserves that, once fully charged, can last for months, even in complete darkness.
Low maintenance: Solar watches are more energy efficient than battery-powered quartz watches, making the timepieces more reliable, less likely to fail for mechanical reasons, and less likely to be out of commission for repairs.
Accurate: Solar watches have proven to be just as precise timekeepers as quartz battery watches, making them reliable for both professional and daily use.
Wide-rangingstyles: Whether one is shopping for something modern, sporty, or classic and dressy, there’s a solar-powered timepiece out there to suit every need and taste.
Overall, solar watches have become quite popular, with the technology only getting better, more effective, sustainable, and more powerful.
What To Look For in Solar Watches?
One might understandably feel overwhelmed by the wide variety of solar timepieces on the market, and it can be difficult to sort through the blizzard of internet ads to determine the winners from the losers and which ones suit one’s specific needs best. That’s why we’ve done the research for you. We’ll detail all the critical things to consider when purchasing your next solar watch.
Build Quality
As with any quality timepiece, one should consider the materials used to make the watch. Materials like high-end stainless steel, ceramic, and titanium will not only be durable and scratch resistant but will last and, as a bonus, look the most luxurious.
Power Reserve
The top solar watches, once fully charged, can last for months, even in complete darkness. If you have professional responsibilities in the field or you lead an active lifestyle, you’ll want to consider a watch with a long power life without the need to constantly be recharged.
Solar Panel Location
Obviously, a solar panel on the case back would be rather ineffective. While I can’t imagine most watch engineers would make a mistake like that, be sure there’s a large panel on the dial or bezel of the watch. This way, you can be sure that it will harness the most solar power.
Water Resistance
Make sure the timepiece you’re considering is at least water-resistant to 50 meters. This will ensure your watch is protected against rain and accidental splashes. It will also allow one to wear the watch in more active settings, including swimming and snorkeling (for a dress watch, 30 meters is acceptable).
Readability
Look for a timepiece that has a clean, readable layout and strong luminous hands and markers so everything is clear and visible even in the lowest light conditions, including total darkness.
The Best Solar Watches
With that said, here’s a list of the 20 best solar watches you can buy today at different price points:
1. BERTUCCI DX3 FIELD REF. 11015
The Bertucci DX3 Field is a simple, no-nonsense, classic three-hand field watch design. The watch case is made of polycarbonate, which is a pressed plastic that’s quite rugged. It’s not stainless steel or titanium, but it will do the job.
The case has a sleek matte black finish and measures 40mm; it’s 11mm thick and 49.5mm from lug to lug. The bezel is smooth and fixed. The dial is also a matte black with painted white numerals and white sword-style minute and hour hands. The hands and indices are properly illuminated and visible even in low-light settings.
The timepiece offers a Japanese quartz movement powered by solar and is water resistant to 50 meters, which is suitable for swimming and snorkeling; however, this watch is not to be used for diving. The face of the timepiece is protected by an R-Type mineral crystal, which doesn’t have the scratch resistance and strength of a sapphire crystal. But this watch isn’t expected to last generations, and the reasonable price reflects that. It is paired with a black nylon strap with a simple tang buckle.
The G-SHOCK is all business. To my eye, there’s nothing especially beautiful about this watch, but if you’re looking for a solid, reliable digital watch, this will deliver. The case is some type of resin, as is the fixed bezel, which is a smooth matte black. Resin is perfectly capable but not as durable as stainless steel. When would this matter?
It probably doesn’t matter for most purposes, but resin isn’t as capable of withstanding underwater pressures as other materials like steel or titanium. The case is a hexagon-type shape, measures 46.7mm by 43.2mm, and sits on the wrist at 12.7mm thick. The watch weighs 51.7 grams. The dial is black with a digital display that can brighten in low-light situations.
The timepiece has some solid specs. It’s shock-resistant and capable of 200 meters of water resistance, which means it’s rugged and ready for those with an active lifestyle and quite capable in most diving situations. The face is protected by glass, which isn’t as durable as sapphire crystal.
The watch is powered by the sun, and its battery, when fully charged and in power save mode, can last in total darkness for up to 22 months. The timepiece is accurate to 15+/- seconds per month. The watch includes features like a 12 or 24-hour format, date and day display, and stopwatch capabilities. All this is paired with a resin strap and a tang buckle.
Price: $150
3. TIMEX EXPEDITION NORTH FIELD SOLAR REF. TW2V41600JR
TIMEX has been a widely known and trusted watch brand since 1854. The Expedition North Field is an excellent timepiece for the price that offers everything a budget-conscious buyer would be looking for. The stainless steel, brushed, and bead-blasted case measures 41mm, sits on the wrist at 12mm thick, and has a lug width of 20mm.
The watch has a smooth steel bezel and a black dial with numerals, except at 12 o’clock, where it’s marked with a triangle. At 3 o’clock, there’s a date window for added functionality. The dial has sword-style hour and minute hands and a gray seconds hand. Of course, the hands and markings are luminescent in the dark. The face is protected by sapphire crystal. TIMEX describes the watch design as military-inspired and made for the outdoor enthusiast.
The timepiece is solar-powered and will last for 4 months on a single charge. The watch offers a screw-down caseback and crown, making it water-resistant to 100 meters. The timepiece is paired with a stainless steel bracelet with a fold-over clasp for added security. It’s a solid, clean everyday watch. If you’re looking for something with solar, but a classic steel design, this watch hits all the right marks for the right price.
Citizen delivers on a good dive watch that’s paired with their eco-drive technology. The stainless steel case with alternating gear-edged bezel measures 44mm, sits on the wrist at 12mm thick, and has a lug width of 20mm. The unidirectional bezel has a blue aluminum ring insert with white markings. The blue dial is also clean and easy to read. The dial has a stubby sword-style hour and minute hands.
The hour and seconds hand are gray, and the minute hand is orange. The indices are white and a mix of round and triangle-like shapes. There’s a date window at 4 o’clock. The hands and markings are luminescent in low lighting. The face isn’t protected by sapphire crystal, which is disappointing, but it’s impact and shatter resistant.
The watch is powered by Citizen’s eco-drive technology, which means it can be charged by any light source and will last up to six months in the dark on a full charge. The timepiece has a screw-down crown and case back and is water-resistant to 200 meters. All this is paired with a blue polyurethane strap with a steel tang buckle. It’s a good-looking, performing driver with some of the best solar tech on the market.
Price: $375
5. ORIENT NEO 70’S SOLAR PANDA CHRONOGRAPH REF. WV0041TX
If you’re in the market for a “panda-style” chronograph that’s solar-powered at a steal of a price, this is it. The Neo 70’s Solar Panda Chrono by Orient has all the right stuff and checks all the right boxes. The stainless steel case measures 42mm and sits on the wrist at 11.7mm thick. The watch looks more expensive than it really is, which is something Orient does well.
The milky-white dial features three registers, two large and one small, with black backdrops. The silver hands and silver-lined black indices look sharp. There’s a date window at 4 o’clock. The face is protected by a mineral crystal.
The watch is powered by solar and, with its screw-down crown and caseback, is water resistant to 100 meters. The timepiece offers hacking seconds and is paired with a stainless steel bracelet with twin push button release, fold over clasp. It seems this model has been discontinued by Orient but is still available through other retailers.
This Citizen Eco-drive is a handsome, classic dress watch. The timepiece has a stainless steel case that measures 40mm. The case is relatively thin and should easily slip under a dress shirt. The fixed bezel is smooth and paired with a light ivory dial with silver hands and indices. There’s a day display window at 12 o’clock and a date window above 6 o’clock. Even with all these functions, the dial is simple, clear, and easy to read.
The timepiece is powered by a caliber J800 movement, which is charged by Citizen’s Eco-drive. The watch is splash resistant, with a 30 meters rating. The timepiece also features 12 and 24 hours and has an eight-month power reserve. All this matched with a brown leather strap with stitching and a tang buckle. It’s a handsome watch that competes very well with other brands like Seiko and Hamilton.
The Edifice Sospensione is perfect for the guy whose Corvette dream is out of reach and who is willing to settle for a sporty watch. The black and red design looks like a sports car. It comes in a few different configurations, some more gray, some more red. The case and bezel are made of carbon and stainless steel, and the watch’s measurements are 51mm by 47.8mm by 10.8mm.
For a beefy sports watch, it’s relatively thin. The dial offers a mix of digital and analog displays, with white sword-style hands and white indices. There’s a date and day window at three o’clock, along with other registers.
The timepiece is solar-powered and can run for 7 months on a single charge, with typical daily use and 18 months in total darkness in “low power mode”. The watch is full of features, including stopwatch functions, a countdown timer, an alarm, and 38 timezones (displaying the city name), to name a few. It’s accurate to within 15 seconds +/- per month. The watch syncs with Bluetooth and offers smartphone link capabilities, and even displays battery levels. It’s water resistant to 100 meters and fitted with a black resin strap with a tang buckle.
Price: $300
8. SEIKO PROSPEX SOLAR DIVE WATCH REF. SNE585P1
Seiko makes a number of stylish divers, and the Propex Solar Dive is no exception. The stainless steel case measures 38.5mm and is thin enough to slip under a dress shirt. The unidirectional bezel is blue with a circle pattern.
The dial is a sunray blue with syringe-style hour and minute hands and a lollipop-style seconds hand. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock. The white indices are a mix of circles, rectangles, and a triangle at 12 o’clock. The case has a satin finish with some contrasting polishing.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s caliber V147 movement, and its battery is solar-powered with a reserve of 10 months. The screw-down crown and caseback offer water resistance of 200 meters, which is perfect for most divers. The face of the timepiece is protected by a sapphire crystal and is fitted with a stainless steel three-link bracelet with a tri-fold clasp for additional security. This watch reminds me of a Tudor Black Bay but for a fraction of the price.
Price: $495
9. CITIZEN PROMASTER NIGHTHAWK REF. BJ7138-04E
This timepiece puts out military vibes. I can see this on the wrist of some special operative behind enemy lines. Citizen says the Promaster Nighthawk was inspired by stealth helicopters. The two-tone steel and black case is made of stainless steel, measures 42mm, and has a lug width of 22mm.
The smooth fixed black bezel paired with the busy black dial is sleek, and while there’s a lot of information displayed, the time is easily readable. The hands are white, and there’s a 24-hour hand in the style of an airplane on a runway. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock.
The watch is powered by Citizen’s B877 movement, which is charged by their Eco-Drive solar technology. The timepiece is water-resistant to 200 meters. It features dual time, date, and slide rule. The watch is fitted with an olive green leather strap, inspired by military uniforms, with a tang buckle. This is a cool, sporty, casual watch that looks great on the wrist of a commando or just a world traveler or a weekend warrior with an active outdoor lifestyle.
The Arnie is another sharp solar diver from Seiko. The timepiece is all black and steel with an analog and digital dial. The stainless steel case, with its lightweight high-tech protective shell, measures 47.8mm, sits at 14.4mm thick, and 51.3mm from lug to lug. The dial features sword-style white hands and white indices. There’s a digital display showing the time at the top of the dial. The black unidirectional bezel has a gear-style edge.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s caliber H851 movement and is solar-powered with a six-month reserve. The timepiece is full of functions from power reserve display, local time indication, stopwatch function, and alarm.
The watch has a screw-down crown, pushers, and screw-down caseback. It’s water resistant to 200 meters, suitable for scuba diving. The timepiece is fitted with a black silicon strap with a tang buckle. The Arnie has great 80s-style diver vibes and is worth considering.
Price: $525
11. CASIO FULL METAL G-SHOCK GM-B2100 REF. GM-B2100D-1A
Casio is known more for their functionality than their sense of style, but they’re trying hard with this model to do both. The G-Shock full metal is pretty similar to the other G-Shock we reviewed, just in an all-steel style. The octagonal bezel and case is the design feature that first grabs one’s attention.
That stainless steel case measures 49.8mm by 44.4mm by 12.8mm. It’s a chunky, sports-style watch design. The black and gray dial, hands, and indices offer a sleek look. The dial is a combination of analog and digital. The style cues with this model take one back to the 80s with the dimpled band and bezel shape.
The Full Metal G-Shock, as the name implies, is shock resistant and durable. It’s water resistant to 200 meters. The mineral glass protecting the face is disappointing, but these watches aren’t expected to last multiple generations like a luxury watch might. On the bright side, this timepiece has many useful functions and features.
The watch is solar-powered and will run for about 7 months on a single charge, with typical daily use and 18 months in total darkness in “low power mode”. It offers time, date, 38 timezones, an alarm, a battery level indicator, and Bluetooth, among other functions. The timepiece is fitted with a dimpled stainless steel bracelet with a fold-over clasp.
Price: $550
12. CITIZEN WORLD CHRONOGRAPH ATOMIC TIMEKEEPING REF. AT8020-54L
I’ve always thought these Blue Angels Citizen watches were pretty darn cool and packed with tech. They have busy dials, which I don’t typically favor, but there’s something about the design I like. It’s sporty and attractive.
The stainless steel, two-tone case, steel, and blue Ion-plated bezel measures 43mm, has a lug width of 25mm, and sits on the wrist at 12.5mm thick. These atomic and radio timekeeping watches tend to be thick, but this one is pretty reasonable. The dial is blue with white, silver-lined, sword-style hour and minute hands and a yellow seconds hand. The dial has three registers, and there’s a date window at 3 o’clock.
The timepiece syncs to the Atomic Time Clock for accuracy and has Atomic Timekeeping tech that is synced with 26 time zones. The watch is powered by Citizen’s H800 Eco-Drive movement, which is charged by the sun. The timepiece also offers a day, date, and power reserve indicator.
The watch is water resistant to 200 meters and is fitted with a stainless steel three-link bracelet with a fold-over clasp. There’s also a titanium version of this model, which offers the same features, but in a lighter weight package, but of course, that’s more expensive.
13. JUNGHANS 1972 CHRONOSCOPE SOLAR REF. 14/4202.44
Junghans is a German watchmaker that may or may not be known to Americans. They’re the official timekeeper of the Munich Games, and they make some excellent watches. The Junghans 1972 Chrono Solar was designed to capture the spirit of those 1972 games. It does just that. It’s sporty, streamlined, and like a well-conditioned athlete, there’s not much “fat” on this watch.
The timepiece’s stainless steel case measures 43.3mm and sits on the wrist at 11.6mm thick. The bezel and case have a satin finish and a sculpted look. The bezel is black and matched with an anthracite-gray sunray brushed dial. There’s a red outer ring with a tachymeter scale. The dial has three registers and gray hour and minute hands, plus a red seconds hand. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock.
The watch is powered by a solar-quartz movement, the caliber J622.50. It’s water resistant to 100 meters, with a screw-down caseback, a guard-protected crown, and a sapphire crystal covering of the face. The timepiece features a stop function with 1/5 seconds, date, and alarm. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. All around, this is a really nice watch that could function as a sports watch and in dressier situations.
This is another “panda-style” chronograph from Seiko with all the right style cues. The stainless steel case measures 39mm, which is a real sweet spot for most wrists. It sits on the wrist at 13.3mm and 45.5mm lug-to-lug. The case has a satin finish and looks great with the black tachometer bezel.
The white dial is clean and crisp, with three registers with black backgrounds, along with black hands and indices. There’s a date window at 4 o’clock. This watch has some Omega Speedmaster vibes, and there’s nothing wrong with a tribute, especially at a reasonable price.
The timepiece is powered by Seiko’s caliber V192 quartz-solar movement. It’s loaded with features like a 6-month power reserve, power indicator reserve, date, small seconds, chronograph up to 60 minutes, and a 24-hour hand. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The screw-down caseback adds to the seal, and this timepiece offers 100 meters of water resistance. It’s paired with a stainless steel bracelet with a tri-folding clasp.
Price: $675
15. JUNGHANS FORCE MEGA SOLAR REF. 18/1000.00
This is another modern-style timepiece from Junghans. The all-black design is slimming and classy, but this watch isn’t just great to look at, it’s also got all the right chops. Made of a polished ceramic, the case measures 40.4mm and is ultra-thin at 8.2mm thick.
The dial is both analog and digital, with a black outer rim with white-gray markings. The inner dial is gray with vertical lines. The hour and minute hands are gray, and the seconds hand is black. There’s a large digital date window at 6 o’clock.
The face of the watch is protected by a sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to 50 meters. There’s even a handsome globe design on the caseback. This timepiece is packed with tech, with a radio-controlled solar movement, for the most accurate timekeeping. Functions besides date and time include a power reserve indicator for up to 21 months and easy time adjustment in the app. The watch is fitted with a black synthetic rubber strap with a titanium tang buckle.
Price: Approx. $1,250
16. TISSOT T-TOUCH CONNECT SOLAR REF. T121.420.47.051.00
This is a super-fly watch from Tissot, the Swiss watch company. It’s both classy, sporty, and bold. I could see this timepiece worn with casual attire or, if you’re gutsy, even a suit. The anti-magnetic titanium case measures 47.5mm, 23mm lug width, and sits pretty high on the wrist at 15.3mm.
This watch is a big boy, and while one could wear it with a suit, in my opinion, it won’t slide under a dress shirt. But why would you want to hide this beautiful, modern timepiece anyway? Despite being a larger watch, it’s light at 92 grams, thanks to its titanium build.
The shiny black ceramic bezel features a compass and other markings in white. The black dial is both analog and digital. The hour and minute hands are white, lined in black, with a red triangle tip on the minute hand. The seconds hand is red and in the shape of a T for Tissot T-Touch. The indices are white, and there’s a large digital display on the lower half of the dial.
The watch is full of the latest tech and features. The movement is a Swiss-connected quartz solar movement. Despite all the digital functions, the timepiece is water-resistant to 100 meters. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal.
The functions include an altimeter, compass, perpetual calendar, alarm, multiple timezones, automatic daylight saving time, timer, chronograph split, chronograph lap, chronograph log book, step counter, calorie tracker, temperature, weather, etc. There are simply too many functions to list. The timepiece is paired with a red synthetic silicone strap with a tang buckle. If you’re looking for a Swiss watch that straddles the line between classy and modern with all the latest tech, I think you’ve found it.
Price: $1,095
17. JUNGHANS MAX BILL MEGA SOLAR REF 59/2022.46
This model is another great example of the modern, minimalist designs Jughans is known for. This design captures the essence of the Bauhaus style, from its simplicity to its lightweight and gentle touch on the skin. The timepiece also puts out vintage, 60s German vibes to my eye. The titanium case measures 38mm and is ultra-thin at 9mm.
The domed sapphire crystal adds to the vintage feel. The dial is white-gray with gray hands and markings. There’s a date window at 3 o’clock and white luminescent dots at 3, 6, 9, and two dots at 12. The caseback includes a map of the world.
The watch is powered by a connected radio-controlled solar movement J101.85 and is water resistant to 50 meters. Functions include the date, time adjustment at the crown or the MEGA App, and seconds display in half-second motions. The timepiece is fitted with a titanium Milanese bracelet with a folding clasp.
Price: Approx. $1,450
18. TAG HEUER AQUARACER PROFESSIONAL 200 SOLARGRAPH REF. WBP1180.BF0000
This TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional looks old school, but under the hood, it’s all modern tech. The octagonal grade 2 titanium bezel with its coin edge look is complemented by a sunray, brushed black dial with a horizontal line pattern. The titanium sandblasted case measures 40mm, which is a comfortable, versatile size. The silver-lined white hour and minute hands and indices are complemented by a turquoise pop of color on the seconds hand. There’s a functional date window at 3 o’clock.
The screw-down caseback displays a compass symbol. There’s a screw-down steel crown and a water resistance of 200 meters. The watch has solargraph technology and features a Swiss solar-powered movement. The timepiece is fitted with a sandblasted 3-link grade 2 titanium with a folding clasp, push buttons, and micro-adjustment.
Price: $3,050
19. SEIKO ASTRON GPS SOLAR SSH109
This Seiko Astron GPS Solar offers a fusion of a classic steel sports watch with technology, and the design captures that well. The titanium case measures 42.7mm, sits at 12.2mm on the wrist, and is 48mm from lug to lug. The face of the watch is protected by sapphire crystal. The dial has four registers, one smaller, with a date window between 4 and 5 o’clock. The dial has silver sword-style hands against a gray-blue, to my eye, and has a fine sandpaper finish at the center.
This timepiece is powered by a GPS solar movement with a 6-month reserve and 2 years in power save mode. The watch is water resistant to 100 meters and has a plethora of options. Options include perpetual calendar, world time function in 39 time zones, dual-time function, day display, power reserve indicator, GPS signal reception function, and automatic daylight savings, among others. The timepiece is fitted with a titanium bracelet with a three-fold clasp and push buttons.
Price: $2,500
20. CARTIER TANK MUST LARGE SOLARBEAT™ REF. WSTA0059
If you love the Cartier Tank Must style, but you’re looking for a solar-powered timepiece, you’re in luck, Cartier has just what you’re looking for. The WSTA0059 has the iconic steel rectangular case you know and love. The case measures 33.7mm by 5.5mm by 6.6mm. This is a thin, classic dress watch. The white dial has black Roman numerals and markings with sharp blue hands that match the blue tip of the crown.
The face of the timepiece is protected by synthetic sapphire glass. The movement powering the watch is quartz solar. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, which is splash resistant and perfectly acceptable for a dress watch. All this is paired with a black leather strap with a tang buckle. This timepiece simply exudes class but is unique with its cutting-edge solar tech under the hood.
Retail Price: $3,700
21. Garmin Forerunner 955 Solar
One of the best watches in the marathon training and triathlon training communities, the Garmin Forerunner 955 features a fitness tracker with a beautiful color display and a GPS mapping system that ensures you never get lost during your training session. It also features advanced readings on stats like VO2 max levels, sleep quality, and training readiness. The best feature is the gigantic battery life, with up to twenty days of uninterrupted wear in smartwatch mode, assuming the sunlight conditions are correct. Being a smartwatch, the full-color display is crisp and legible, being extremely easy to read in direct sunlight so that you can follow the GPS with no complications.
The case size is 46.5mm, made with a silicone strap, and a fiber-reinforce bezel, with a 14.4mm thickness. For smartwatches, it’s pretty slick looking with a simple, black, rubbery texture with some fine-tuned details along the casing. I can definitely see this piece drawing major attention from any fitness fans out there.
Price: $600
Parting Thoughts
There’s a large and growing market for solar-powered, radio, and GPS-linked watches that are full of features and have the ability to connect with our smartphones and online worlds. We hope this article has been informative and useful in your search for the right solar watch for your needs.
There’s a wide array of timepieces in this space, from budget options to sporty and dressy possibilities from higher-end, luxury watchmakers and everything in between. We think these are 20 of the best on the market today, and one can’t go wrong with any of them.
The reliability and ruggedness of field watches have made them some of the most popular timepieces on the market. The average field watch is versatile and stylish, making it great for everyday wear. Don’t be deceived by the minimalist designs most of them have; some cost several thousands of dollars.
These types of timepieces have been around for hundreds of years and were initially designed for people in the military and pilots. Many people have found them useful in other aspects and have since adopted the style. There are many field watches from various brands, so choosing the best to suit your needs might be difficult.
This is a guide to the best field watches across various brands, from affordable to luxury.
About Field Watches
Field watches are known for their functional designs, rugged build quality, and very readable dials. They carry this look because of the initial purpose of the invention, which was for military use.
Watches have always been seen as ornaments solely for beautifying the wearer. The world war came, and they became more than an object for beauty. Field timepieces were originally called trench watches, and their history dates back to the 20th century during the first world war.
Soldiers needed access to time on the battlefield, and the use of pocket watches on the front line slowed them down, so they decided to have them tied to their wrists. Watchmakers noted this and decided to design watches fit to withstand the tough conditions at the war front, and field watches were invented.
Field watches have evolved from being worn by people in the military to a timepiece that could be styled up or down. They are now worn on different attires as no one is worried about wearing a corporate watch on a suit and tie; the requirements for fashion are now looser.
What Makes Field Watches Special?
Durability
I will think twice before jumping into the pool with my $20,000 luxury Patek Philippe, even if it has 100 meters of water resistance written on it, but I won’t cringe if I have a field watch on. They were originally built to withstand war activities, and they still maintain those qualities to date. They are resistant to water, shock, and dust.
Versatility
These watches look great on any outfit. They look amazing on shorts and t-shirts at the barbecue, and you will smash that look if you dress them up with your suit and tie.
Easy and Functional Design
Unlike your regular timepiece, every feature or design on a field watch is added to make the watch function better than the average watch. The dial and numerals are legible and easy to read, and the case and straps are built with some of the most rigid materials to withstand harsh conditions.
Style
Most field watches today are upgrades of previous models from hundreds of years ago, and they maintain that classic and timeless design that ceases to go out of style.
What to Look for in Field Watches
If you are interested in field watches, there are a few things to consider before making that purchase.
Rugged Build
It is most likely a bad choice if it doesn’t look like a watch that could be worn daily. A field watch must possess the qualities of a daily beater. They are mostly cased with stainless steel or titanium and NATO straps for comfort on the wrist and durability.
Water Resistance
The watch’s water resistance is one of the qualities that makes it suitable for the field. To withstand water pressure, some are built with up to 100 meters of water resistance, and a very good one can have more than 200 meters.
Movement
For easy control, field watches use uncomplicated movements like quartz and mechanical. They are very easy to operate and require little maintenance.
Legibility
Reading the numerals on a field watch should be easy, even in the dark. Most of them come with lume dials that glow when it’s dark to make them usable at all times.
Price
Just like every other timepiece, field watches have different prices, depending on the features and build of the timepiece. Some quality ones could be bought for a few hundred dollars, while the top-tier ones cost thousands.
Now that you understand field watches and how to sight a good one, this is a list of my favorites across all brands.
I have styled this classic timepiece with different attires, and I’m still in awe of its versatility. The Timex Expedition has all the qualities to be called a field watch. It has a stainless steel case covered with sapphire crystals, a black dial with glow-in-the-dark markers, and hands. It carries hand-winding mechanical movement and a 100 meters water resistance.
This field watch has a 38mm case size for both big and small wrists. The NATO strap used makes it fit for every activity, from working out to being styled up. The Timex Expedition is functional, stylish and offers much value at $295.
Citizen Garrison (ref. BM8180-03E)
The Citizen Garrison is an Eco-drive watch with rugged qualities fit for everyday wear. It has a 37mm steel case with very clear numerals on the black dial and a day-date feature at 3 o’clock.
This timepiece is powered by the in-house Citizen Eco-Drive technology that uses light as its source of power, and this feature makes the watch fit for any field activity as it doesn’t require any battery or winding for it to function. It is sold for between $100-$200.
Timex Expedition North Field Post Mechanical
An American brand through and through, Timex has made many military watches over the years, giving them experience with the utilitarian field watches we now look at today. The Expedition North Field Post Mechanical features a 23-jewel, manually wound mechanical movement and a nonreflective sapphire crystal, all fitted within a stainless steel case that resists water pressures of 100m.
Timex prides itself on making eco-friendly watches, and this one is no different. Equipped with zero-batter leather, reduced battery-generated waste, and post-consumer plastics, its innovative stride to ensure that the watch is beneficial to the environment, as well as the consumer, is highly respectable.
The stainless steel case measures 38mm, with the 20mm Ecco DriTan leather strap. The dial is extremely simplistic, with a neutral white and bold black font to ensure high legibility.
Overall this watch is quite a steal, only costing $229.
Seiko 5 Field Sports Style SRPG35
In addition to all the classic features of a field watch, this timepiece has a modern touch that makes it fit every function and outfit. It has a case diameter of 39.4mm, which fits most wrists. The Seiko 5 Field Sport watch is cased in stainless steel with a steel bracelet also.
It has the Seiko 4R36 automatic movement, which is popular for its reliability and accuracy, as well as a 41-hour power reserve. If you’re looking for a field watch that will make you appear confident and stylish, the Seiko 5 Field Sports watch is a good pick, and it is currently sold for $295.
BOLDR Venture Carbon Black
Titanium watches have always stood out for me, and at $300, this timepiece offers good quality. Not only is this BOLDR field watch affordable, but it’s also very light and stylish.
Its 38mm case is made of titanium with a super lume coating on the markers and hands of the dial. It comes in Navy Blue, Jungle Green, and Carbon Black colors. The strap of the Venture Carbon is a tough nylon designed for any condition. The NH35A automatic Japanese movement powers it and has a water resistance of 200 meters.
The inspiration for the heritage collection dates back to the 20th century, to the watches made for the Swiss army during the World War. This vintage-styled watch is one of the most popular in the collection. At 40mm, the stainless steel case sits perfectly on my 8-inch wrist, and it is also coated with a black PVD. The green dial and black nylon fabric strap give it a unique and durable look.
The Heritage 241972 is powered by the Swiss quartz movement with a 100 meters water resistance. The green dial makes it a perfect fit for both men and women that fancy a unique timepiece with the features of a daily beater. For a Swiss timepiece, the Victorinox Swiss Army Heritage offers good value at $375.
Bulova Hack Watch Black Dial (ref. 98A255)
The unique feature of the Bulova Hack watch is its ability to stop and control the second hand, making it possible to make the time as accurate as possible. It is a perfect feature for professionals like pilots, doctors, engineers, and others who need an accurate time up to the exact second.
It has a 38mm steel case with a 10mm case thickness that sits well on a medium-sized wrist. The Bulova automatic movement powers the Hack watch with a 30-meter water resistance. This timepiece is currently sold for $380.
Marathon Sage Green General Purpose Mechanical (ref. WW194003SG)
The Marathon General Purpose Mechanical (GPM) is the definition of a watch built to take some serious beating. The timepiece was inspired by the watches issued to US military officers in the 1980s. It’s a cool and stylish timepiece designed with some of the toughest materials. It has a case made of high-impact fiber with a steel core, which makes it resistant to corrosion and shock. It has a sage green dial that fits perfectly with the tough green nylon strap.
It uses the Japanese Seiko NH35A automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 30 meters. Its 34mm case size and 11mm case thickness make it suitable for a small wrist, and at $450, the Marathon Sage Green General Purpose Mechanical will surely put a smile on your face without breaking the bank.
CWC G22 Automatic
The CWC G22 uses the Sellita SW200-1 movement, popularly known for its accuracy and reliability. For around $500, it’s a relatively affordable watch for its sophistication. This timepiece was originally designed for the British army, and it is still in use by some of its units to date.
It has a case diameter of 38.5mm and a case thickness of 11.5mm. It’s mostly compared with the Hamilton Field Mechanical watch because of the similar designs, but the movement of the CWC G22 makes it a more durable timepiece.
Nodus Sector Field Marina
The blue dial of this timepiece gives it personality, which I like very much. The dial has features like bold numerals, a 24-hour military tracker, and a date function. This timepiece has a screw-down crown with a very tough case back and up to 150 meters of water resistance. Its case diameter measures 38mm, which makes it a fit for most wrists, and it also has a stainless steel bracelet that complements the steel case.
The Seiko NH35 automatic movement powers it, and it comes with a 41-hour power reserve. The Nodus Sector Field Marina is a timepiece built to last, and it’s also a good choice if you want a shiny watch that will make you look sharp and stylish. It is currently sold for $450.
Glycine Combat 6 Vintage Black (ref. GL0459)
Looking at this timepiece, you can tell the design was well thought out and put together. The combination of a vintage design and modern features makes it a total eye-catcher. The 43mm stainless steel case size of the Vintage Black gives it a bold look that’s fit for confident people. The black fabric used for the strap complements the black dial and well-polished steel case.
The movement of this timepiece is based on the Sellita SW200-1, the GL224 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. The big case and bold fonts make it a watch I will recommend for confident people who want a field watch with some style. It is currently worth $595.
Luminox Atacama Field Day Date 1929
This is a modern watch, and its features differ from other field watches. The Luminox Atacama is set apart by the Tritium illumination it comes with. Tritium is a radioactive gas that releases light for up to 25 years, so this watch can’t lose its glow; this feature makes it a timepiece fit for long night activities on the field. It has a steel case that measures 45mm in diameter with a case thickness of 13mm. And as the name implies, there’s also a day and date feature on the dial.
It has a Swiss quartz movement and a 200 meters water resistance. Its leather strap makes it styleable on casual outfits and your suit and tie. It’s a bit pricey, but its modern features make it worth every dollar. If you are looking for a field watch that is rugged and with modern features that will last you for many years, I recommend the Luminox Atacama Field Day Date 1929 watch for you. It sells within the range of $650-$950.
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)
If you are looking for a classic military watch with a touch of modernity, this timepiece is for you. It is powered by the manual winding H-50 movement with an 80-hour power reserve, which means it can last for more than 2 days without winding.
It has a stainless steel case measuring 38mm in diameter with a 9.5mm thickness and a green NATO strap that gives it a functional look. However, it is inspired by the field watches used in the 20th century by the military. The Hamilton Khaki Field timepiece doesn’t look like a watch that will go out of style for many years to come. It is currently sold for around $495.
Vaer A5 Field Auto 40mm Black
Vaer watches have a very solid look that I love to see in watches, and the A5 field timepiece is one of my favorites. It has a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter with a 10.4mm thickness. It has a black dial with white numerals that are very easy to read. It’s a light watch at 74 grams, making it sleek and comfortable on the wrist.
It is controlled by the famous Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve and a 100 meters water resistance. It is better styled on casual outfits and field clothes. For $549, you can lay your hands on one of these.
Benrus DTU-2A/P Field Watch
The rugged build of the DTU-2A/P timepiece and the not-so-fancy designs made it a favorite among US military soldiers in the 1960s, and this reissue holds most of its original features and a couple of new ones. It has a 39mm case made of 316L stainless steel and covered with acrylic crystals. This watch has a black dial and a 24-hour scale with numerals and indices.
The SW200-1 automatic movement used in this timepiece is an upgrade from the previous models that were hand-wound. The addition of a green NATO strap also gives it a modern touch that can be styled casually or for fieldwork. It has a water resistance of 50 meters and is currently sold for $595.
Orient Star Mechanical Sports Watch (ref. RE-AU0201E)
This mechanical sports watch is a beauty to behold, and it is also built to last. One feature that stands the Orient Star Mechanical Sports watch out from most field timepieces is its use of a large chrysanthemum-shaped crown that makes operating it very easy, even when you have gloves on while working.
It has a 41mm case diameter made of stainless steel and sapphire crystals with an anti-reflective coating. The case back is also made of crystal glass, giving you a view of all the mechanics. Its dial consists of both Arabic numerals and indexes.
It is powered by automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve, and it has a water resistance of up to 100 meters. It comes with a well-polished leather strap that makes it fit for casual and corporate wear. The Orient Star RE-AU0201E is priced at $595 currently.
Formex Field Automatic Charcoal 41mm (ref. 0660.1.6523.121)
From its case to the dial and strap, the Formex Field Automatic Charcoal reflects serious toughness. Its 41mm case is built with grade 2 titanium treated with a special hardening substance to make it a lot harder so it can withstand a serious beating.
And despite its hardness, it maintains the usual light weight associated with titanium timepieces. The markers and numerals are inscribed into the charcoal dial, giving the dial a vintage and elevated look.
The Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement powers it with a 41-hour power reserve and a water resistance of 150 meters. This field watch comes in leather, rubber, and NATO straps, depending on your preference. Buying this timepiece with all the straps allows you to use the timepiece for casual, corporate, and field purposes. At $845, the Formex Field Automatic Charcoal timepiece offers great value.
I find watches with history very amazing because they reflect years of continuous improvement in design. This Olympos watch is a great redesign of the original Zodiac Olympos used by British military officers in 1961. The STP 1-11 comes with some serious modern improvements. Its 40mm case is made of 316L stainless steel, and the dial is gray or green. Its strap is made of brown leather with a prong buckle.
It is powered by the SWISS STP 1-11 automatic movement with a 200 meters water resistance. The Olympos STP 1-11 is a very comfortable watch that can be styled up and down. It is currently priced at $895.
Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Matte Dark Blue (ref. AL-525NN4S6)
Do you know what sounds much cooler than flying a plane? It’s the Alpina Startimer Pilot watch. Pilot watches are known for their usual style and class, but this timepiece turns it up a notch with modern designs. It has a very bold 44mm stainless steel case with sapphire crystal that’s both anti-reflective and scratch-proof. The watch’s dial is matte dark blue and very readable, and the genuine black leather strap complements it.
Inside this timepiece is the AL 525 movement with a power reserve of 38 hours and a 100 meters water resistance. Whether styled with a suit and tie or with shorts and tees, the Alpina Startimer timepiece will surely turn heads. It is currently priced at around $1000.
Accutron Legacy Railroad (ref. 2SW6B001)
For many years, pocket timepieces were the only watches approved by the railroad. Accutron watches were among the first set of timepieces approved by the North American Railroad, mainly because of the special tuning fork movement, which was very accurate compared to others in the 1960s. The Legacy 2SW6B001 is a total upgrade with the addition of the automatic ETA 2824-2 movement.
This silver-toned stainless steel timepiece has a case diameter of 34mm with a case thickness of 12.5mm. Its strap is made of leather with a double-press deployant closure. It’s a perfect watch for smart and active gentlemen. For a limited edition watch, it offers good value at $1,290.
Oris Big Crown ProPilot Big Day Date (ref. 01 752 7698 4164-07 5 22 14FC)
Like the Alpina Startimer, this timepiece perfectly combines classic style and modern sophistication. But what sets it apart from other pilot watches is the modification of the Sellita SW200-1 automatic, which has been updated with a big day and date function. Its 45mm case is made of stainless steel, and it comes in two bracelet versions.
One comes with olive green straps and a steel clasp, and another with a full steel bracelet. It is powered by the 752 Oris movement with a water resistance of 100 meters. If you are looking for a pilot watch that’s functional and classy, this is a great choice for you. It currently costs $1,750.
Weiss 38mm Standard Issue Field Watch
This is a very stylish timepiece, and it’s also built to last long. Cameron Weiss’ dive into the Pacific Ocean inspired its creation, and this hand-designed masterpiece is everything you expect from a great field watch.
It has a case size of 36mm, built with stainless steel, with a 9.2mm thickness. The sapphire crystal back is well secured with four 316L steel hex screws. The crystal front is covered with a multi-layered anti-reflective coating. It also comes with different designs of handmade straps, and you can choose any design while purchasing.
It has the Weiss Caliber 1005 mechanical movement with a 42-hour power reserve. This field watch is a great choice that can be styled up or down. Its water resistance is 100 meters, and it is currently sold for $2,000.
Sinn 856 UTC
The Sinn 856 UTC is a definition of a modern timepiece; it embodies the characteristics of a watch meant for various activities. The 856 UTC has a dual time zone feature, which makes it possible for you to know the time in two different timezones. It also has magnetic field protection, which protects the watch and, most especially, the balance spring from functioning incorrectly due to the influence of magnetic fields.
The German watch has a case size of 40mm and 11mm thick, and is made of stainless steel. It comes in leather, stainless steel, and silicone strap versions. It is powered by the SW 330-1 self-winding mechanism with a 200 meters water resistance.
This watch is for people constantly traveling across countries with different timezones. It’s also a timepiece that can be styled with different outfits and will make a statement. The Sinn 856 UTC is sold for around $2,000.
The V1-92 military watch is the perfect timepiece for the field, as it is designed with tough materials and no-nonsense colors. Its 38.8mm case is made of satin polished stainless steel, and it has a brown strap made of calfskin with a pin buckle. Its markers and numerals are very visible on the black dial.
The BR-CAL. 302 automatic movement powers this Bell & Ross timepiece with a power reserve of 38 hours and a water resistance of 100 meters. It’s a great choice for every active person that wants to maintain a great style on the move. The V1-92 military timepiece is currently priced at around $2,400.
Longines Spirit Titanium (ref. L3.810.1.53.2)
This classic timepiece was designed for pilots and explorers in the 1960s, and the Spirit Titanium is a modernized version. It features a titanium case and a bracelet, making it a light watch on any wrist. It has a case diameter of 40mm, which is perfect for both big and small wrists.
Inside is the Longines Caliber L888 automatic movement with a 64-hour power reserve. It’s a COSC-Chronometer-certified watch with 100 meters of water resistance. It is currently sold for a little less than $3,000.
Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)
There is no way I will complete this list without mentioning a Tudor because of how tough they make their watches, even the luxurious ones. The Ranger watch is a versatile watch that can be styled perfectly on any outfit. It has a stainless steel case diameter of 39mm with a satin-brushed steel bezel. The strap is made of stainless steel that has a Tudor T-fit safety catch, and it also comes with extra NATO straps.
The COSC Certified in-house Tudor MT5402 caliber movement powers it with a 70 hours power reserve. It is built with a bidirectional rotor system and has a 100 meters water resistance. It is a timepiece that offers both luxury and functionality, and at $3,150, this Tudor Ranger offers good quality.
Bremont Broadsword “Dirty Dozen” Black Dial
This is an upgrade from the Dirty Dozen Timepiece issued to soldiers of the British military during the Second World War. Military watches are made to withstand harsh conditions, and the Broadsword watch offers the same standard with some added sophistication. It has a 40mm MOD hardened stainless steel case with an 11.7mm thickness. This Dirty Dozen comes in a NATO strap or a stainless steel bracelet.
The Bremont BE-95-2AV automatic movement powers it, and it is chronometer-certified to ISO 3159 standards. It has a 38-hour power reserve with a 100 meters water resistance. If you love military watches, spending around $3,000 on this timepiece would be a great choice.
Breitling Aviator 8 Day & Date 41 (ref. A45330101B1X1)
The tough case, bold dial, and accurate movement make this Aviator 8 the perfect Pilot watch, but it also comes with some features that stand it out from other Pilot watches. Its 41mm case is made of brushed stainless steel, and it has an 11.1mm case thickness. It comes in black or blue dial versions.
Inside it is the Breitling Caliber 45 automatic movement and bidirectional winding. It has a power reserve of over 40 hours with a water resistance of 100 meters. The Aviator 8 is a functional watch that looks good on casual and corporate outfits. It is sold for $4,250.
IWC Spitfire Automatic (ref. IW326805)
There are four pilot watches on this list for a good reason, and that’s because they have built-in features specifically to cater to the needs of a pilot, and these are also some of the functions needed by most field workers.
This is an upgrade from the Mark 11 navigation timepiece produced for the British Royal Air Force by IWC in the 1940s. This Swiss watch has a 39mm case diameter with a green textile strap. The attention to detail on this watch is its main distinct feature. Its case is perfectly finished with a very simple dial and clear numerals.
It is powered by the IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber, with a 120-hour power reserve. This Pilot watch has a 60 meters water resistance, and it is currently sold for around $5,000.
Omega Railmaster (ref. 220.12.40.20.01.001)
The Omega Railmaster timepiece was originally designed for railway workers back in 1957; because of their regular contact with magnetic fields on the tracks, they needed a watch that could withstand it. Other people who worked close to strong electrical fields also used this timepiece. This timepiece is an updated model that carries modern complications.
It has a 40mm case diameter, 12.7mm case thickness, and 100 meters of water resistance. It is both COSC and Master Chronometer Certified, which means it is a watch fit to withstand any activity, and it has a high level of precision. It is controlled by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8806. It is currently sold for $5,400.
Rolex Explorer 40 (ref. 224270)
As it should be, the Rolex Explorer is the most expensive timepiece on this list, but it is not just because of the name. This watch embodies the luxurious look of an average Rolex and the tough build of a field watch. The 40mm diameter case is a little bit bigger than the previous Explorer watches, and it also has more technical details.
It is made of Oystersteel, which is the famous proprietary stainless steel alloy by Rolex. The bracelet comes with a 5mm comfort extension that makes it adjustable to fit any wrist size. The watch uses an Oyster folding clasp for extra safety.
It is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3230 with a power reserve of up to 70 hours. It has a 100 meters water resistance. This timepiece can be styled casually or with corporate attire. The Explorer 224270 offers good quality and value at around $14,000.
Conclusion
Field watches have been a lot of people’s timepiece preference for years, and that’s because of their versatility and durability. Today, you can find field watches that can suit any taste or budget you have. Whether you need a simple, uncomplicated watch or one with many complications and features, you will surely find a field watch that suits your needs.
Guess who recently gained a strong following on the back of its astounding value propositions? Orient! Guess which Japanese brand has become the new beloved of watch forums and vintage fanatics? Orient! Guess who’s the new cult Japanese brand that offers extraordinary value? Orient! Orient! Orient!
Orient has stayed too long under the radar. The under-appreciated Japanese giant ticks all the right boxes, and that’s the reason why its timepieces are quickly gaining notoriety among popular luxury watches.
Numerous reasons create an appeal for a watch. For some, it often is the name printed on the dial, which translates to the league, hierarchy, and echelon. For others, it will be all the mechanics, practical details, and seductiveness of flawless symmetry.
With the Orient Sun & Moon, you’re more likely to enjoy all of the latter and a bit of the former for a very affordable price. The distinguished dress watch is an epitome of low-key luxury and pared-down magnificence, with the day and night indicator as its pièce de résistance.
We’re going to explore the Orient Sun & Moon collection and round up five of our favorite watches with a more popular and luxurious moon phase indication.
About The Orient Sun & Moon
Ancient civilizations learned to observe astronomical bodies such as the Sun and Moon gliding across the skies to determine time. The first record of a clock featuring the sun and moon ornamentation goes way back to the late 1600s.
It was a period of diverse experimentation with captivating ways to show the time, so it’s not surprising someone thought about this. While it’s not known who created the first sun and moon watch, the earliest reference is an English-made antique pocket watch by John Trubshaw, with this ornamentation dating from 1695.
In the 2000s, Orient set out to create striking watches with distinct flavors of Japanese individuality. The Sun and Moon models were released as a modern version of a dress watch. The aim was to make a lasting impression on the viewers, distinguishing the brand from other Japanese competitors in the industry.
First released in 2007, the Orient Sun and Moon is a reliable, budget-friendly watch that brims with poise and class. As the name reads, the timepiece displays either day-light skies with the Sun or starry skies with the Moon. The watch features a built-in date display and a day window, providing added functionality for its wearers.
With its elegant and functional design, it stands as a prime choice for watch enthusiasts seeking well-designed, complex dress watches that deliver both style and performance at an affordable price.
By deviating from the norm and presenting exceptional features, Orient succeeded in capturing our hearts, allowing us to experience the allure of an elaborate timepiece without compromising our financial comfort.
History of Orient
Orient’s tale begins in 1901 when a visionary named Shogoro Yoshida opened a wholesale shop called “Yoshida Watch Shop” in Ueno, Taito, in Tokyo, Japan. Yoshida swiftly gained success by offering imported pocket watches of unparalleled quality.
Embracing the spirit of entrepreneurship, Yoshida expanded his horizons in 1912 by venturing into producing gold wristwatch cases. This move laid the foundation for his future endeavors and marked the birth of a legacy that would withstand the test of time.
The year 1936 witnessed the establishment of the Hino factory in Tokyo, Japan, becoming the beating heart of Tokyo Tokei Manufacturing’s operations. This facility became a hotbed of innovation and craftsmanship, propelling the company forward for years to come.
However, the turbulent aftermath of World War II brought about economic devastation, leading to Tokyo Tokei Manufacturing’s unfortunate closure in 1949. Yet, like a phoenix rising from the ashes, Yoshida’s spirit and dedication to watchmaking could not be extinguished.
In 1950, he breathed new life into his wristwatch manufacturing enterprise, rebranding it as Tama Keiki Company, which carried on the legacy at the hallowed Hino factory.
It was in 1951 that Tama Keiki Company underwent a profound transformation, emerging with a new identity, Orient Watch Company, Limited. The release of the first Orient Star that same year elevated the brand to new heights, captivating watch enthusiasts with its elegant design and impeccable precision.
As the years unfolded, Orient Watch Company continued to make its mark on the horological landscape. The brand’s commitment to excellence manifested in remarkable timepieces that captured the imagination of collectors and enthusiasts alike.
The “Dynamic” in 1956, the “Grand Prix 100” in 1964, the “Fineness” in 1967 (hailed as the world’s thinnest automatic wristwatch with a day and date calendar function for its time), and the “Tenbeat” in 1970 all showcased Orient’s unwavering pursuit of horological mastery.
In the following years, Orient continued to innovate and released various notable models, including the Orient Multi-Year Calendar, which featured a unique calendar function that displayed the day, date, and month accurately.
The new millennium also ushered in fresh chapters for Orient watches. In 2003, the Orient Technical Center (OTC) was founded and was used as a hub of innovation where timepieces were meticulously assembled. This marked a testament to Orient’s dedication to combining traditional craftsmanship with modern advancements.
In 2004, Orient’s quest for precision reached new heights with the introduction of the high-precision caliber 88700 movements in the Royal Orient watch line. The fusion of artistry and technology continued in 2005 with the launch of the Orient Star Retro-Future collection, captivating watch enthusiasts with its distinctive aesthetic.
As the brand celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2010, Orient Watch Co. commemorated this momentous occasion with a limited edition model, a testament to the enduring legacy and craftsmanship that Orient watches symbolize.
Throughout its journey, Orient has remained committed to producing timepieces that exemplify the perfect balance between traditional watchmaking techniques and modern innovation.
In 2001, a significant development took place when Seiko Epson, one of the core companies of the esteemed Seiko Group, became the majority shareholder, acquiring 52% of Orient Watch Company.
This strategic partnership not only brought Orient Watches under the umbrella of a renowned watchmaking conglomerate but also paved the way for further growth and expansion.
Orient Watch Company evolved into a wholly owned subsidiary of Epson in 2009. With the transfer of the business to Epson, the company continues to flourish, drawing on its rich heritage while embracing new opportunities and technologies.
In recent years, Orient has expanded its presence in the global market. The brand has gained recognition for its diverse collection of watches, including dress, sports, and dive watches. Orient continues to focus on in-house movements and offers a wide range of automatic and mechanical timepieces.
Orient Sun and Moon: In-Depth Guide
The Orient Sun and Moon is a watch that is too elegant to be ignored. Its style is undeniably captivating. However, I’ll be the first to admit that the majority of the timepiece here are not for subtlety, but friend, why wouldn’t you want to show off?
Particularly with such a polished case, texture dial, comfortable strap, and sapphire crystal, allow me to unravel the world of the Sun and Moon series in the following categories.
Case
From yellow and rose gold-plated variants to plain stainless steel and two-tone editions, Orient Sun and Moon watches were crafted for fashion-conscious enthusiasts. The first generation of watches (launched back in 2007), were presented in stainless steel or gold-plated cases with a diameter of 41.5mm without the crown, and a thickness of 13.29mm.
The subsequent generations go up in size and thickness until the Sun and Moon Contemporary. Apart from the “Petite” models, all the cases have a sporty edge because of their thickness, adding to the versatility of the watch. At the same time, the timepiece is slim enough to slide under a cuff without any issues.
The cases are completely polished to give the watch an elegant look, and the lugs are rectangular with an interesting ”step-down” design. There’s a moderately-sized push-pull crown at 3 o’clock with the Orient logo on it.
Bezel
From the onset, the Sun and Moon references came with a thin, sleek bezel that allowed for a larger and more prominent display. This feature has not changed to date. If you’re wondering what the heck a bezel is, it’s the narrow border or frame surrounding the display area of a watch.
The slim bezel of the Sun and Moon watch is ideal because it provides a more immersive viewing experience and a modern, elegant aesthetic. By reducing the bezel width, more space is allocated to the actual Sun and Moon display, resulting in a larger, more legible watch face.
This is particularly advantageous for a decorative watch such as this as it allows for better readability of the Sun and Moon’s interactive elements.
Crystal
Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the current reference of the Sun and Moon series from the front. Sapphire crystal is the second hardest material on Earth, right after diamond, and is considerably harder than other common watches crystal materials like mineral glass or acrylic.
It is highly valued for its exceptional hardness and scratch resistance, making it highly resistant to everyday wear and tear. It is also more expensive than other traditional watch glass materials and is often reserved for high-end watches.
On the Orient Sun and Moon, the sapphire crystal provides excellent protection to the watch face, preserving its clarity and preventing scratches from occurring. It also offers a level of transparency, allowing for clear visibility of the dial and hands.
Dial & Hands
The specific design elements, colors, and details of the Orient Sun and Moon dial can vary depending on the model and edition.
Orient has introduced various dial variations throughout the years, catering to different tastes and preferences while maintaining the mesmerizing elements that define the series’s character.
Across all the references, what unites each watch is the presence of a day/night indicator. So all the dials display a moon when it is night and a sun to represent the day – hence the name “Sun and Moon.”
Depending on the generation, the sunburst dials come in either white, black, blue, champagne, or gold color, with baton-style, Roman or Arabic hour markers, and dauphine-style or leaf-shaped hands. The hands are always in bold colors, too, like royal blue, gold, silver, or black.
Movement
Throughout their brief lifespan, the Orient Sun and Moon watches have utilized different movements. From the Orient Caliber 46B46 that powered the first generation of watches to the caliber F6L24 and caliber F6B24 in the Open Heart and Contemporary models, respectively, the brand has shown commitment to improving the line’s appeal.
The upgraded movements hacks, hand-winds, and has a quickset date which the Caliber 46B46 lacked. Apart from these mechanical in-house calibers from Orient, which powers most of the watches, there are also smaller quartz-powered timepieces in the Sun and Moon Petite model with superlative accuracy.
Strap
Again the Sun and Moon watch offers different strap options depending on the reference and generation. The most common and traditional strap associated with this series is a black or brown embossed leather strap with a push-button buckle deployment clasp.
Price & Availability
Prices vary and range from about $220 to $550 for a new piece, with more recent versions commanding a higher price tag. Orient Sun and Moon watches are typically available through authorized Orient retailers worldwide. Additionally, Orient operates its boutiques in various cities, and you can explore and purchase their timepieces online.
However, it’s worth noting that some limited editions or special models may have restricted availability and could be subject to waiting lists or allocation procedures. The Orient Sun and Moon 65th Anniversary Limited Edition, for instance, had a production run of only 3,000 pieces under the Ref. SET0T005Y.
Who is the Orient Sun & Moon Best For?
Some of this can come down to personal preference, but I feel this Orient is definitely catered to a target audience. Although some might disagree, I’d say this is best suited for the business professional. There’s a blend of elegance and practicality in its design that just doesn’t exude a casual personality.
Sure, you can wear it any time you like, but it wouldn’t feel or look fitting in every scenario. For those who appreciate simple functionality with superb design, the Orient Sun & Moon is a great way to go. I believe the watch pairs best with more formal attire, which still gives you plenty of chances to put it on.
If you’re into more casual wear, the watch can still look great with the right approach. There’s no doubt that the watch is versatile, but it can look a little jarring if the outfit is too relaxed. I also like to point out that the watch is a great entry-level option into the world of mechanical movements.
For those who truly appreciate design, you’ll get a pretty big kick out of the open case back and all of its inner workings. Between sophisticated design and a more than affordable retail cost, it’s a stellar option for the everyday business professional.
Orient Sun & Moon Generations & Models
Orient is respected as one of the few fully integrated watchmakers from Asia. The brand designs and develops its movements using leading-edge technology. It doesn’t take a genius to figure out just why Orient watches are becoming so enduringly popular.
They provide exquisite style and meticulous timekeeping and are affordable. Did I mention they are also unfailingly durable? No matter which version of the Orient Sun and Moon watch you choose, you can be sure of superlative quality.
However, only recent releases combine resplendence with the brand’s demonstrated savoir-faire, as upgrades were necessary to meet today’s standards. The many dress watches of the Sun and Moon series can also make identifying the right one a difficult process.
With multiple generations, a range of dial colors, and strap options, this guide can help you navigate through the manifold world of the Orient Sun and Moon generations and models.
Orient Sun & Moon Generation 1
Despite a rich history of creating high-quality timepieces under its belt, Orient watches were pretty much unknown until the early 2000s when the brand enjoyed an upsurge.
The first version or generation of the Orient Sun & Moon is exactly what it seems; the earliest in order. It represents the early simple days of dress watches and is reported to have been launched in 2007.
Orient’s struggle to leave its mark in the Horological world and claim its spot in the ascendancy can be identified in this first generation which bears the undeniable marks of a transitional period.
The case of the first version is a strong medium-sized piece of stainless steel that measures 41.5mm across and has a thickness of around 13.29mm. Quite similar in look to the current Sun and Moon generations we know now, the round steel case has a thin sloping bezel and a comfortably short lug-to-lug distance.
The case size is the smallest of all the generations but, in my opinion, is the most suitable for an elegant and comfortable dress watch. The undeniable charm of the models in the first generation owes a lot to the dial.
The look is classic, tastefully designed, and consistent across all the references, with baton-style markers that cut out into the chapter ring. Only this first generation has a rectangular date window cutout at the six o’clock position.
The sub-dials dedicated to the sun and moon and day indications overlap each other obliquely at the upper half of the dial. The layout is classic, clean, and balanced, so the models of this version are perfectly legible.
You should note, however, that the dial does not contain any luminescent material. If, like me, you’re not fond of lumed dress watches, this is a plus. The hour markers are thicker than the ones in other generations, and the dauphine-style hands are bulky and come in different bold colors ranging from royal blue, gold, silver, and black, depending on the case and dial.
The Ref. FETOP001W, for instance, has gold hands to match the dial and case. Powering the models in the first generation is the Caliber 46B46. It is a self-winding movement that does not hack or have a quickset date feature.
Orient Sun & Moon Generation 2
The second generation of the Orient Sun & Moon collection is reported to have been launched in 2012. From this point on, we begin to see a more consistent look which evolved only slightly to give us the contemporary look we know today. Unlike its predecessor, this version features Roman numerals and no bar hour markers anymore.
The sporty edge of the first generation is done away with completely, as the use of Roman numerals on the models here creates a sense of refinement and elegance, harking back to a bygone era. The dial is also presented in a more decorative manner, with intricate typography and embellishments, further enhancing the classic aesthetic.
The date window now lies between 7 and 8 and no longer 6 o’clock, replacing the original position of the signature. Again the looks and specs of the automatic dress watch have changed to fit into the trendy lifestyles of customers who want timepieces that combine refined elegance with superior quality.
The watch now comes in a 42.5mm stainless steel case, which is water-resistant to 50 meters, and comes on a leather strap (irrespective of which reference you choose). The models also include gold-plated editions with a brown or champagne dial. For instance, the Ref. ET0T001W features a gold-plated case with a white dial.
The case’s thickness has also increased a bit from 13.29mm to 14.1mm and is great for wearers who appreciate the substantial presence and weight of a thicker watch on their wrist. It’s not too thick; it’s just bold with a robust appearance. It’s an excellent watch on the wrist, with good proportions.
For the first time, a reflective blue dial version is made available. The sub-dial arrangement is the same as the first generation, but more texture has been added, enhancing the overall aesthetic allure.
The hands are now leaf-shaped and not dauphine-style anymore, and the movement has been changed from the Caliber 46B46 to the Orient Caliber 46B40.
I don’t consider this very much of an ‘upgrade’ since the new movement still doesn’t hack or hand-wind. Yet again, there’s no quick date wheel, so unless you’re a hardcore collector who is passionate about hunting out elusive models, I don’t recommend buying the first or second generation of the Orient Sun and Moon.
Orient Sun & Moon Generation 3
The second generation infiltrated the watch market until half a decade after its release when Orient decided to bring on a different package for the next generation of the Sun and Moon watch. Little tweaks and improvements separate the Orient Sun and Moon generation 3 from generation 2, as the formula is pretty much the same.
Both feature a 42.5mm stainless steel case, use Roman numerals, have a depth rating of 50 meters, and are available in the same color palettes. Some of the models here are also gold-plated for an elegant feel like those of the second generation. For instance, the Ref. RN-AS0004L and Ref. AK00001Y come in a gold-plated stainless steel case.
The main tweak is found in the movement, as watches in the third generation of the Sun and Moon series get their power from the in-house Caliber F6B24. Finally, we get a movement that allows the wearer to hand-wind it for adjustments, and we also get a quick-set function for the date.
The date indicator has maintained its position between 7 and 8, but the Sun and Moon complication has been adjusted to the bottom right. So, the day/night indicator is now at 5 o’clock, while the day display now lies between 9 and 11 o’clock.
The case is still thicker than you would expect for a dress watch (at 14.1mm), but this provides better protection for the internal components and makes the watch more resistant to shocks and impacts.
The watches here are unique because this collection has something for everyone. No surprise that it’s a continual best-seller even after new models come on board. It requires an investment of roughly $300.
Orient Sun & Moon Generation 4
Orient seems to have an ongoing relationship with the Sun & Moon. The commitment to continually improve the fantastic value-for-money dress watches of the Sun and Moon series is commendable.
Generation 4 of the Orient Sun & Moon series is identical to Generation 3 to a great extent, except for the use of Breguet Arabic numerals and not Roman numerals. It is also more enhanced than the first generation and does not use baton indexes at all.
The case is completely satin-brushed, giving the watch a more refined look than its predecessors. The dial texturing has been replaced with a pristine, smooth satin surface that reflects the light beautifully. The blued-steel leaf-shaped minute and hour hands enliven the dial while contrasting beautifully with the background for enhanced legibility.
Tastes and styles have evolved, and Orient demonstrates its style-conscious capabilities by honing the aesthetics of this high-quality dress watch to meet today’s standards. The fourth generation remains an effortlessly chic dress watch that looks absolutely stunning.
Orient Sun & Moon Open Heart
An open-heart timepiece reveals its inner workings through a small window on the dial. The balance wheel rotates back and forth, driving the hands as it does, so it is visible through this window. Some people are fascinated by the inner workings of a watch and wish to see their timing devices tick.
Orient has allowed such ones to admire the movement within without sacrificing the aesthetics of the Sun & Moon watch design. The diameter of the polished stainless steel case of this lineup is around 42mm, and the thickness is 14 mm. The open-heart design on the dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, making it more resistant to scratches.
It is called open-heart because the balance wheel serves as the “heart” of the watch, and it takes the place of the day indication, so all that can be seen now is a heart that reveals a bit of the caliber. Owners of this timepiece can look deeper and view the mechanics of the automatic caliber F6L24 which offers hacking and hand-winding options and has a power reserve of 40 hours.
There is a variant with a metal bracelet and black dial, another with yellow-gold elements under the reference number RA-AS0001S and the most elegant option, which features a white dial and black leather strap. If you’ve been wondering just how a mechanical watch works, this piece will help you understand.
Orient Sun & Moon Contemporary
The Sun & Moon Contemporary was dubbed a re-edition of the first generation. But what it looks like is a sleek package with all of the best features from the first generation to the fifth. So, feel free to call it the amalgamation of the Sun & Moon.
Like the first generation, the watches here use indices to mark the hours. But, the day/night indicator is not positioned at the upper half of the dial but at 5 o’clock, as seen in Generation 3 and 4. The subdial for the day display takes a fitting position on the top left of the dial’s quadrant between 9 and 11 o’clock.
There’s a date aperture at 3 o’clock, which is a small neat rectangular cutout that can only display a single numeral. The Ref. RA-AK0301S features a white dial with gold-plated indices, while the Ref. RA-AK0302B and Ref. RA-AK0304B features blue and black dials, respectively.
The stainless steel case of the Sun & Moon Contemporary measures 41.5mm in diameter, making it a bit slimmer than the generations 2, 3, and 4. It is water-resistant to 50 meters and is powered by the Orient Caliber F6B24.
Orient Sun & Moon Petite
The Orient Sun & Moon Petite is the ultimate understated and stylish dress watch to elevate your style around the clock. Labeled and billed as a woman’s watch, I think this Petite model is also perfectly suited for men who have smaller wrists. The regular line is already crowded with timepieces that are too large for many men, so this is a welcome addition.
The case measures 34.8mm in diameter, and the thickness is now 8.7mm. You’d think the entire design of the Sun and Moon package would be condensed into a smaller dial making it crowded; however, the dial is pretty much uncluttered. It flawlessly maintains the symmetrical sub-register layout with the date at 3 o’clock, the sun and moon indication at 6 o’clock, and the day at 9 o’clock.
None of the indications overlap, and Roman numeral hour markers are featured throughout the references. The 8.7mm thick case size is possible because of the Japanese quartz caliber KUE00 that powers the watch. Each timepiece comes fitted with a comfortable leather strap and a matching deployant clasp.
Should You Buy an Orient Sun & Moon Watch?
I get it. We don’t necessarily need to look at our watches before we discover the status of the sun and the moon. Maybe only a handful of enthusiasts who have some experience with the midnight sun or polar night will find this feature tremendously helpful.
But if, like me, you’re not in that category and are wondering if you should buy an Orient Sun & Moon watch? Yes, you should, my friend, you definitely should. There are several compelling reasons to consider buying the Orient Sun and Moon watch.
Here are some key points that make it a popular choice:
Heritage and Reputation: While Orient may not have the same level of mainstream recognition as some luxury Swiss watch brands, they have a strong following among watch enthusiasts who appreciate the brand’s commitment to quality and affordability.
In recent years, the Japanese watch manufacturer has been gaining more attention and popularity in the watch community as people recognize the value they offer compared to other brands in the market.
Diverse Range of Designs: Orient offers a wide variety of watch styles, ranging from classic and elegant to sporty and modern.
Whether you prefer a traditional mechanical watch or a modern quartz watch, the Sun and Moon series has a model to suit your taste.
Affordable Luxury: The watches in the Sun and Moon series offer excellent value for money. While they may not have the same price tags as some luxury Swiss watches with the same offerings, the timepieces here provide exceptional craftsmanship and functionality at a more accessible price point.
This affordability makes it an attractive option for both watch enthusiasts and casual buyers.
Automatic in-house calibers: Orient has shown a strong commitment to technological advancements. The brand is among the few watch manufacturers from Japan to manufacture its movements in-house. The movements powering the Sun and Moon timepieces are reliable and affordable.
Quality Materials and Durability: The Orient Sun and Moon series is home to watches crafted with high-quality materials, including stainless steel, sapphire crystals, and premium leather.
This attention to materials contributes to the durability and longevity of the timepieces in this line. Every one of them is built to withstand daily wear and offer reliable performance for years to come.
Masterful styling with intuitive fashion appeal: Apart from the fact that it is so exhilarating to watch the sun and moon circle on your wrist, the watches in this series represent true elegance.
Orient’s careful attention to detail and their desire to continuously convey a pleasing allure is visible in every generation. The Orient Sun and Moon watch is the ideal accessory for your collection, fitting for use at the office as well as in casual settings.
Alternatives to the Orient Sun & Moon
If you are enthralled by the celestial appeal of the Orient Sun & Moon watch but desire something more luxurious with a real moon phase complication, there are several great options at different price points.
Now this is not to say that the Orient Sun and Moon series is a default option and not to say they are the poor man’s choice. By all means, the Sun and Moon models are not to be seen as watches for the ‘unprosperous’.
We all know that wearing a timepiece with a rotating disc or sub-dial depicting the moon’s phases can be both elegant and mesmerizing, making the watch a work of art on your wrist.
Moon phase complications have a long history in watchmaking and are considered one of the most romantic and poetic complications. They date back to the 17th century when watchmakers started incorporating them into timepieces.
The moon has captivated humanity for centuries and is associated with various emotions, moods, and cultural symbolism. Its ever-changing phases represent the cyclical nature of life, the passage of time, and even romance. Wearing a moon phase watch can evoke a sense of wonder, nostalgia, and appreciation for the natural world.
That being said, it’s not a bad thing to desire something more luxurious, sophisticated, and absolutely stunning. Let’s delve in.
Oris is one of a small handful of Swiss watch brands known globally for its expertly crafted mechanical watches at affordable prices. The Artelier might not be as popular as the Aquis or the hyped Divers Sixty-Five, but the elegance of this reference just goes to show how much we need to start paying attention to the Artelier range.
The Artelier Moonphase has a classical design with a round stainless steel case that measures 40.5mm, which has slim, tapered lugs, as well as a clean bezel. The watch features a moon phase complication, which is a display that shows the current phase of the moon.
This complication adds a touch of sophistication and romance to the watch, making it a popular choice for those who appreciate traditional watchmaking and celestial aesthetics. The moon phase indication is positioned at 12′, the date at 9′, the day at 3′, and a second timezone display at 6′.
The silver dial features a guilloché-like pattern with rose gold-plated indexes and luminescent hands to match the case. Expect to spend $2,350 for a new piece.
Located in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, Longines is famous for creating the very first chronograph movement designed for a wristwatch, the ‘13.33Z’. The 1832 collection features classic and elegant timepieces that embody the brand’s rich heritage and craftsmanship.
The Ref. L4.826.4.92.2 further reflects the collection’s ethos, showcasing refined aesthetics and reliable performance. “1832” pays homage to the year when Longines was founded in Saint-Imier, Switzerland so this is a very significant timepiece.
The watch clearly has a strong vintage spirit, but its technicalities are contemporary. The finely polished case measures 40mm in diameter with a thickness of 12.30 mm. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has multiple layers of anti-reflective coating on the inner side.
The beige dial features a moon-phase subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock with a date disc at its border, completing the functionality of the watch. The watch is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement; the Caliber L899 with a power reserve of up to 72 hours. It retails for $2,812 on the brand’s website.
Founded by a group of independent entrepreneurs in 1988, Frederique Constant is a Swiss brand famous for its high-quality classical watches at intimidating prices. The Slimline Moonphase Manufacture combines a classic design, precise mechanical movement, and a functional moon phase complication.
If you’re looking for a modern dress watch that is a classique amongst the classics, this refined timepiece with an expensive look is just what you need. The Ref. FC-705S4S6 applies the laid down codes of traditional vintage dress watches in combination with contemporary elements. The watch is presented in a smooth and round stainless steel case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 11.3mm.
The combination of silver-applied indexes and a discreetly brushed white dial with a sun-ray pattern gives off a rich palette that you can’t fail to notice. Encircling the moon phase indication at 6 o’clock is the date pointed by a small, sleek hand. The watch is powered by the in-house caliber FC-705 and retails for $6,295.
Every horological talk about the moon always reminds me of OMEGA. When Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar surface, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster ST 105.012 became the first watch ever worn on the moon.
That was the deed that solidified the Speedmaster’s status as one of the greatest watches in history. The Ref. 304.33.44.52.03.001 is one of the best interpretations of a classic moon phase watch that is so spectacularly beautiful it will make your heart skip a beat.
The watch takes the spirit of exploration into untold heights of beauty with its 44.25 mm stainless steel case complemented by a blue ceramic bezel ring with Liquidmetal®. The Liquidmetal alloy is an amorphous metal three times harder than stainless steel.
The enchanting blue dial features highly contrasting luminous markers with a breathtaking moon phase indication at 6 o’clock. The watch is also certified by METAS as a Master Chronometer, thanks to the impressive Caliber 9904 ticking underneath the hood. It retails for approximately $9,000.
Breguet Classique 7787 (ref. 7787BR/12/9V6)
Breguet is the undisputed master of fine watchmaking complications. In case you didn’t know, the Swiss Marque invented the tourbillon. Not only was the brand held in high regard in all the Royal courts of Europe, but it also revolutionized the art of watchmaking. The Classique 7787 Ref. 7787BR/12/9V6 carries on the prestigious history and legacy of Breguet with its classic and timeless design.
The watch is inspired by the Breguet Nº5, an antique pocket watch with captivating features. Classic features such as the iconic coin-edge case, blue Breguet-style hands, and a fine “grand feu” enamel sets this timepiece way ahead of others in the same caste.
The display of the dial is intentionally unbalanced as Abraham-Louis Breguet (the founder and designer of the Breguet Nº5) intended it to be legible and functional in the best possible way. The watch is encased in a 39mm 18k white gold with a delicately fluted case band and sapphire crystal case back.
The poetic moon phase indication is placed at 12′, and the watch is powered by the caliber 591DR with a power reserve of 38 hours.
Conclusion
So there you have it, pretty much everything you should know about the Orient Sun & Moon watch. With all of this said, nothing more can be added except the fact that the Orient Sun and Moon series combines high fashion with utility and should be added to your collection. The durability, modest price tag, and unobtrusive and elegant dial make it a perfect budget-friendly dress watch.
Long before planes were invented, humans dreamed of flying. Centuries ago in Greek mythology, there lived Icarus, son of Daedalus, a mythical inventor who constructed wings out of feathers and wax. The wings were to aid the duo in flying out of Crete, where they were held captive by King Minos.
Taking to flight with unfathomable excitement, Icarus soon forgot his father’s warnings and flew too close to the sun. His wings melted, and he died, but the myth implied that man’s innate desire to fly would be impossible.
Yet the desire lived on, and on December 17th, 1903, the Wright brothers invented the world’s first successful motor-operated airplane. The wish to soar through the atmosphere was now granted, but another need was created, namely a timepiece to help the pilots keep track of their flying time.
Positioned more as statement pieces today than critical tools used in the air, pilot’s watches were launched to serve as timing devices for aviators. Nothing best captures the intrigue and excitement of a navigator’s lifestyle like a pilot’s watch.
This is why we put together a comprehensive list of the best pilot watches to satisfy your aeronautical fantasies. Enjoy!
About Pilot Watches
During the early decades of aviation, there was no such thing as aeronautical timing devices. Pilots desperately needed a timer because the timing was a vital element in nearly every aviation-related calculation.
To meet this pressing lack, timing devices were created to help pilots with simple calculations and keep accurate flight times. The first was a small gold watch with a square face and exposed screws, constructed by Louis Cartier.
Aviation watches are considered to be one of the first real onboard “computers” for pilots. They often feature specific characteristics and functionalities that are useful for flight-related activities.
All pilots’ watches are designed with aviators in mind; thus, the dials have a highly legible display, large enough to be read when flying.
Many pilot’s watches include chronograph complications, which enable pilots to measure elapsed time for various tasks, such as flight calculations and navigation.
The pilot’s watch saw innovations to make an aviator’s job even easier, and many of them on the market today incorporate useful features.
These include dual time zone displays, integrated slide rule bezels or E6B flight computers, and anti-magnetic and shock-resistant constructions to help protect the timekeeping accuracy of the watch.
While not a universal feature, many pilot’s watches offer water resistance to varying degrees. This is useful for pilots who may encounter wet conditions or work around water bodies during their operations.
History of Pilot Watches
The history of pilot’s watches dates back to the early days of aviation when reliable timekeeping was crucial for navigation and flight operations.
According to connoisseurs, the story begins in 1904 when Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont asked his friend Louis Cartier to design a watch specifically for his aviation needs.
The innovative Cartier came up with a wristwatch that featured a square case with the unmistakable sapphire cabochon crown, a large dial with Roman numerals, and a simple design.
The World War began in 1914 and ushered in major changes in aviation. The demands of military aviation during World War I led to the development of dedicated pilot’s watches. The British Royal Flying Corps issued watches to their pilots featuring large, easily readable dials and robust construction.
The growth in pilot watches escalated, and during the 1930s and World War II, German watchmakers such as A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, and Stowa produced pilot watches known as “Fliegeruhren.” Alongside timekeeping, pilots required watches with additional features for navigation. Chronographs, which included stopwatch functionality, became popular among aviators.
Brands like Breitling and Longines produced chronograph watches with various scales and additional subdials for measuring elapsed time, calculating distances, and performing other calculations.
Today, pilot’s watches continue to be extremely popular not only among pilots but also among watch collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate their functionality, aesthetics, and historical significance.
The Best Pilot Watches
Seiko Pilot Chronograph SNN241
Seiko’s contribution to the aviation industry has been relatively minor; however, not including a watch from the Japanese giant watchmaker would be a transgression. There may not be tons of dedicated pilot watches from the brand, but the SNN241 meets and exceeds the criteria for an aviation watch.
Behold one of the best watches available in the sub-$150 price range! If you’re a fan of classic pilot watches and looking for a no-nonsense watch with suitable military vibes, look no further.
Seiko offers this solid, value-priced chronograph that is large and easy to read in a 42.6 mm stainless case with a thickness of 11 mm. The tactical watch has a clean brown dial with contrasting white numerals and indices, offering excellent readability.
There are minute markers around the outer rim of the dial, and the watch also has two sub-dials for measuring chronograph functions and a date window at 6 o’clock. It is powered by the Seiko Caliber 7T94 and is worn on a comfortable contrast-stitched leather band with buckle closure.
AVI-8 Timepieces Gutersloh (ref. AV-4088-22)
AVI-8 was founded in 2012 by a combination of pilots, watchmakers, and engineers. The watch brand is known for its unique and functional design, which draws inspiration from aircraft and aviation history.
At about $160, the Gutersloh Ref. AV-4088-22 is a stunning, straightforward timepiece that pays tribute to Britain’s distinguished military aviators who gave their lives for a worthy cause during WWII. It is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 43mm across and is 12mm thick.
The dial features an army-blue color which is a distinct addition that stands out from the majority of pilot watches with black or blue faces. The design elements are inspired by the aircraft’s cockpit instruments and aesthetics, so you will find two recessed subdials at 9′ and 3′, enclosed by cockpit instrument-style frames.
There is a highly legible dial with bold applied Arabic and baton indexes, all coated with Swiss lume on a matte canvas. There’s also a date window at 6 o’clock and an additional orange-colored hour hand to indicate time in a different time zone.
Orient Pilot’s Sports Watch (ref. RA-AC0H04Y)
Orient has a timepiece for everyone. From elegant dress watches to rugged divers and, of course, pilot’s watches, the brand is getting increasingly popular in the watch community. At $200, the Ref. RA-AC0H04Y is an effortlessly functional pilot’s watch that offers exceptional value for money.
The 42.4mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The layout of the beige dial emphasizes easy readability and a tool-like feel. The dial has a large minute ring on the perimeter with a distinctive black print.
There is a date display located at the third hour, and the face of the watch is protected by a mineral crystal. The watch is worn on a stylish all-occasion brown leather strap with contrasting light stitching. It is powered by the Orient caliber F6722, an in-house self-winding automatic movement with 22 jewels and a power reserve of 40 hours.
Citizen Chandler Pilot Chronograph (ref. CA0621-05L)
Citizen is an absolutely legendary watch manufacturer that has been around for over 100 years. Known for its high-quality, technical and affordable timepieces, the Japanese watch company is respected for adding eco-mindfulness as a core value.
Since it launched its first light-powered timepiece with proprietary Eco-Drive technology in 1976, thousands of exceptional watches with outstanding build quality and innovative technology have followed.
The Pilot Chronograph Ref. CA0621-05L is a reasonably priced aviation watch that stays true to original pilot watches used during World War II. The stainless steel case is relatively large at 42mm in diameter and features flat protruding lugs, which will make it feel a bit bigger than it is.
With 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown, this timepiece can be worn comfortably in the air, at ground level, and underwater for activities like swimming. The iris blue dial has a lot of information but is highly legible and uncluttered. The watch features Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology, which works by running off light as its power source and retails for $230.
Citizen Promaster Altichron (ref. BN5058-07E)
Honoring the world of pilots and aviation is the Promaster Altichron Ref. BN5058-07E. Many pilot watches are purely technical, and only a few standout pieces can combine technicality with pure aesthetics as this one does.
Encased within a 47 x 11mm stainless steel case with prominent pushers and crown, the Altichron over delivers the attributes required for a top-notch aviation watch. First off, the titanium bezel features a compass ring, and on the inside, you’ll find an altimeter, which measures altitude.
The dial is pretty busy, no doubt, but this is a function-packed watch that was designed to work well up to 32,000ft above sea level. Plus, it has a water-resistant rating of 200 meters. Talk about cool!!
On the black dial with red accents, one finds large SuperLuminova-coated Arabic numerals, large sword-shaped hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. Altogether, the watch is all about functionality and readability. Like most watches from Citizen, the Ref. BN5058-07E is powered by the brand’s Eco-drive solar movement. It retails for $595 and comes fitted with a black rubber strap.
Headquartered in the southwestern German town of Pforzheim, Laco is generally regarded as the originator of the German Pilot Watch. The brand, which was founded by Frieda Lacher and Ludwig Hummel, has been an established part of the German luxury watch scene since the 1920s.
Inspired by pilot’s and deck watches from the 1930s, the Augsburg 42 Ref. 861688.2 is a robust aviator watch presented in a sleek brushed 42mm case with a solid screw-down crown. The dial is pretty straightforward with a simple matte black finish. It is adorned with rectangular minute indices and Arabic numerals for marking the hours.
The hands and indices are legible even in low light thanks to ample punchy-green lume. Protecting this dial is a double-domed sapphire crystal. It retails for $420 on the brand’s website and comes fitted with a brown calfskin leather strap.
Seiko Flightmaster SNA411
Imagine trying to navigate a mountain range in a blizzard without a reliable watch. From long-haul flights to snorkeling trips, the Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is the ultimate adventurer’s watch.
Whether you’re a pilot or aviation enthusiast searching for an accurate, sturdy, reliable, and affordable watch that looks good, too, this military-grade and rugged timepiece is your best bet. The Seiko Flightmaster SNA411 is an impressive chronograph watch presented in a finely brushed case that measures 42mm across and has a thickness of 13mm.
The stainless steel case is matched with a 20mm wide bracelet that flawlessly combines polished and brushed finishes. It also has three sub-dials for compass, stopwatch, and alarm, which makes the dial pretty interesting to stare at. The quartz-powered watch has been discontinued but is readily available in the secondary market for around $480
Atmoss SR-01 Everyday Pilots Watch
Based in Brisbane, Australia, Atmoss is a relatively new kid in the vast world of watchmaking, but it is in no wise the least! If you want a sleek pilot’s watch that combines next-level durability with avant-garde technology, this is your best pick.
What better person to construct a pilot’s watch than a man with a history of flying low-tech planes himself? I’m talking about Warrick Bettany, the man behind Atmoss Watches. The innovator has been pretty busy rolling off some of the best aviation watches that preserve the old-school tradition of getting things done analogically.
First things first, the case of the Everyday Pilots Watch has a diameter of 41mm, a thickness of 10.5mm, and a lug-to-lug of 48.5mm. The functionality of the watch begins with the two matching logarithmic scales or slide rules — one on the bezel and one on the chapter ring on the outer perimeter of the dial.
The pure aesthetics of the white dial with blue and red accents add a touch of aviation-inspired romance. Keeping the price of this elegant watch down to $480 is a solid movement; the Japanese Miyota 9039 with a modest 42-hour power reserve. The watch has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters and is worn on a metal bracelet or FKM rubber strap.
Bulova Pilot A-15 (ref. 96A245)
If you’re looking for a graceful aviator’s watch with a timeless design and thick feel, the Pilot A-15 Ref. 96A245 comes highly recommended. On request from the US Army Air Force Air Technical Service Command, the original A-15 was initially designed in 1943 to solve very critical flight-related problems for pilots at the time. Unfortunately, the watch never made it out of the testing phase for some reason or another.
The project was thus suspended, but 76 years later, Bulova deemed it necessary to release the watch to the general public. The Ref. 96A245 is a reinterpretation of the A-15 “Elapsed Time Watch” and is presented in a 42mm stainless steel case with narrow lugs and three crowns at the 2, 3, and 4 o’clock positions. The crown at 2 rotates the internal bezel measuring elapsed time, while the four o’clock crown controls a second-time zone or elapsed hours.
The dial might seem a bit complex at first glance since it features about four concentric rings, but everything is neatly arranged and harmonious. The watch is powered by the Miyota 82S6 movement with 21 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve. It is worn on a brown leather strap and retails for about $650.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Chrono Quartz (ref. H76522131)
Hamilton is an American watchmaker, now owned by Swatch Group. The brand has been an iconic name in the field of military and aviation-inspired timepieces with a long tradition of delivering quality and precise ‘trench’ watches. In 1994, Hamilton was named the official wristwatch supplier for the American Armed Forces. The former glory the Swiss watchmaker had has been revived in the Khaki Aviation collection today.
Modeled after some of the famous pilot’s chronographs produced by Hamilton for the British Royal Air Force in the 1970s, the Ref. H76522131 is a watch that captures the daring spirit of a pilot like no other. The case is made of stainless steel and has a large notched crown flanked by two pump pushers.
It measures 41mm across with a thickness of 12.47mm, so it’s a no-nonsense watch that is slightly cumbersome. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and highly legible, with luminous markers and a bi-compax display. It has a water-resistant rating of 100 meters, and the dial is well protected with a sapphire crystal, so you can trust this watch to accompany you on your daily missions. It is powered by a quartz movement and retails for about $750.
Yema Flygraf Pilot M2 (ref. YFLY2020-CAS)
Yema is a French watch brand that is seriously underrated for one simple reason; it does not have the words ‘Swiss Made’ plastered all over the dial of its watches. This is very disheartening as the France-based company has consistently demonstrated remarkable mastery in watchmaking since its founding in the 1940s.
The Flygraf collection turns timekeeping into a worthy expedition for those interested in utilitarian watches for the outdoors. All the models in this collection are designed and constructed by brand and professional aerobatic pilot Sammy Mason.
With a vintage-inspired design arising out of military field watches from the Second World War, the focus is obviously on aviation themes. The Ref. YFLY2020-CAS is a watch with a clear spirit of adventure and comes in a brushed 316L stainless steel case that measures 39mm across. A sapphire crystal protects the matte gray dial, adorned by Arabic numerals and indexes, all treated with Superluminova BGW9.
The watch is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, so you can confidently take command of both sky and sea! It retails for about $750 and is powered by the YEMA2000 in-house caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Farer Morgan Pilot Watch
British watch brand Farer was established in 2015 with one simple goal; to make affordable automatic watches for all. If you’re looking for an affordable purpose-driven timepiece befitting a fighter pilot, the Morgan Pilot Watch is just the watch you need.
Farer might not be a name you hear quite often, but the fast-growing brand is capturing millions of enthusiasts around the globe thanks to its superlative build quality and tried-and-true aesthetics. The aviation-inspired watch comes in a highly polished stainless steel case that measures a fitting 39.5mm in diameter with a height of 12.5mm (including domed sapphire crystal).
The matte black dial has two rings for speedy reading, with outer minute markings and the hours on the inside. Farer is known for combining bold colors and contrasting textures beautifully. The Pilot Watch has hour/minute alpha-styled hour and minute hands outlined in Royal blue, while the sweeping second hand tip is finished in beacon red.
Encased in a soft-iron Faraday cage is the SW200-1 caliber. It is an anti-magnetic automatic movement that delivers up to eight times the standard level of anti-magnetic protection. The watch is fitted with an over-stitched American Horween leather strap and retails for approximately $990.
Vaer A12 Dirty Dozen
Founded in 2016 by Ryan Torres and Reagan Cook, Vaer is a watch brand that does everything right. The California-based watchmaker has a strong reputation for producing high-quality tool watches with impressive design elements. Dirty Dozen is a group of legendary watches made within the last two years of World War II.
Twelve watch manufacturers were tasked with supplying these military watches for the British Army hence the name. Vaer decided to pay homage to this military timekeeping icon by releasing this functional, attractive, and utilitarian watch.
Encased in a sleek 36mm 316L stainless steel case dominated by brushed surfaces, the A12 Dirty Dozen is an everyday utility watch designed to not be too cumbersome or clunky on your wrist. With a tightly sealed case back and large screw-down crown design that maintains an airtight seal, a water resistance rating of 100 meters is guaranteed.
The watch is incredibly slim and comfortable on the wrist, boasting a thickness of about 10 mm. According to the brand, the dial features up to 25 layers of SuperLuminova, with a lume performance rating of 8/10. The watch retails for $899 and is powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW260-1 automatic movement with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer (ref. H76205530)
Stand by for take-off with Hamilton’s versatile companion. This one is a true pilot’s watch for adventurers and explorers seeking a timepiece with great accuracy.
The Ref. H76205530 draws inspiration from the Model 23, a cutting-edge pocket navigational chronograph pocket watch made for the US Army Air Forces during WWII. The watch is presented in a 38mm stainless steel case with a thickness of 11.4mm and a lug width of 18mm.
As you’d expect from a military reissue, the dial is ultra-legible numerals with Arabic numerals, cathedral-styled hands, and a railway track outer scale. The face of the watch has a sandpaper-like finish that gives the timepiece a luxurious touch. It is protected by the highly scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and matched with a calf leather strap.
On the inside, you’ll find Hamilton’s caliber H-10 with a 3Hz beat rate and a remarkable power reserve of 80 hours. The watch is water resistant up to 100 meters and retails for about $1000.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation X-Wind Day Date Auto (ref. H77785733)
The Khaki Aviation X-Wind (please do not say ‘ex-wind’, it’s pronounced ‘crosswind’) is probably the first drift-angle calculating timepiece. If you’re just a watch enthusiast like me, you’ll probably not care so much about this function. However, the crosswind feature is useful for pilots as it enables them to accurately calculate and record crosswind components with the internal rotating bezel.
The Ref. H77785733 comes in a PVD-coated stainless steel case that has a diameter of 45mm and a thickness of 12.8mm, so yeah, this is not for the faint-hearted. The dial has a lot going on, but there’s a harmonious symmetry interplaying between all the components. Bold Arabic numerals in white generously coated with Super-LumiNova make time reading seamless even in the dark.
The sword hands and day-date window at 9 o’clock also keep the dial looking pretty cool and balanced. The entire watch has a black glossy appearance and comes with prominent crowns on both sides. The X-Wind Day Date Auto is powered by Hamilton’s caliber H-30 with a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. It retails for $1,335 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
Stowa Flieger Classic Sport 43mm
German luxury watchmaker Stowa has been on fire lately. If you’re looking for a watch that can go anywhere and do anything, this is the one. Since 1937, the brand has been producing classic watches in the style of Bauhaus. Flieger or B-Uhren watches were specially designed for German armed forces (the Deutsche Luftwaffe) tasked with air defense.
The watches were designed to be the most legible timepieces on earth while offering top-notch robustness and accuracy at the same time. Luckily for you, a fat wallet or giant’s wrist isn’t a prerequisite to secure the look and feel of a Flieger, as Stowa presents a faithful interpretation of the B-Uhren watches for about $1,500. The sports watch is encased in an excellently finished 43 mm stainless steel case with a height of 12.8 mm.
With a water resistance of 200 meters, you can confidently take this watch straight from the skies to the oceans. The breathtaking matte black dial is flawlessly executed and decked with temperature-blued steel hands with a generous coating of C3 Super Lumi-Nova. The watch is powered by the Sellita SW215-1 mechanical movement with a power reserve of 42 hours.
Hamilton Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono (ref. H76746140)
Hamilton has contributed a great deal to the aviation sector by creating precision watches for professional pilots for over a century. Between 1965 and 1976, the brand manufactured almost 40,000 wristwatches for the British military. When I think of Hamilton, my mind immediately jumps to the robust instruments for professionals, such as the X-Wind timepieces supplied to air racers.
The Khaki Aviation Converter Auto Chrono continues the brand’s history of serving the flying community well and is just the watch you need to keep up with your inexhaustible lust for aeronautical adventure. The stainless steel case measures 44mm across and has a thickness of 14.6mm, so now you can have a look-good watch peeking out from under your dress shirt.
The most notable feature of this watch is the slide rule bezel, also known as the “logarithmic bezel”. This feature was a crucial tool for pilots who needed to perform basic calculations involving multiplications, divisions, exponents, roots, or logarithms.
The Converter bears the spirit of those instrument watches from the 1940s but adds a good dose of futuristic aesthetics, as can be seen in its gorgeous blue dial that evokes visions of clear skies. It retails for $2,300 and comes equipped with the H-21-Si movement with silicone hairsprings for increased performance and accuracy.
The Oris Big Crown Pro Pilot was first released during the early decades of aviation, one year before World War ll began. Since the second world war was mostly fought in the air, the demand for pilots’ watches skyrocketed, and Oris, founded about 30 years prior, stepped up to the challenge.
The watch was a flight instrument with a highly legible dial, robust movement with accurate timing, and a large crown of about 8mm to aid operation with gloves on. The Ref. 01 748 7710 4164-07 5 22 14FC bears the iconic design elements that distinguished the first Big Crown Pro Pilot.
It comes in a 45mm case equipped with a screw-down crown (100 meters) and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating inside. The lug width is 22mm, and the watch is matched with a comfortable olive textile strap with stainless steel folding clasp.
The black dial features a GMT function that allows the wearer to track time in two different time zones simultaneously. It also has a subsidiary dial for the seconds at 9 o’clock and large Arabic numerals and hands coated with Superluminova BG W9. A see-through mineral glass caseback reveals the Oris 748 caliber, which is based on the SW 220-1. This automatic movement has 28 jewels, beats at a rate of 28’800 vph, and provides a power reserve of 38 hours. Enjoy this Swiss-made luxury for $2,500.
Sinn 144 St Sa Chronograph (ref. 144.066)
To not include a watch from German watchmaker Sinn would be a sin (sorry too tempting). Not only have pilot watches been part of the Sinn’s repertoire for over five decades, but the brand was also founded in 1961 by flight instructor and pilot Helmut Sinn!
The luxury watchmaker is renowned across the globe for making expert pilot’s watches that can withstand the harshest and most extreme conditions in the skies, on land, and deep in the ocean. It’s not just the day-date display and chronograph function that sets it apart.
This watch is equipped with a unique Ar-Dehumidifying Technology and lubricant-free anchor escapement that enhances functional reliability and freedom from fogging. The 41mm x 14.2 stainless steel case is topped with sapphire crystal glass in front and a transparent case back, also made of sapphire crystal.
The killer watch comes with a waterproof and pressure-resistant rating of 200 meters and combines a tachymeter and pulsometer scale instead of a rotatable bezel. A new 144 St Sa Chronograph on a leather or silicone strap costs around $2,400, while one on a stainless steel bracelet demands around $2,600.
Junghans Meister Pilot (ref. 27/3794.00)
Find yourself a more enchanting pilot’s watch; I’ll wait. German brand Junghans has been creating durable mechanical cockpit clocks since the early 20th century. If you are a hardcore adventurist seeking a reliable and elegant pilot’s watch to help you keep your eye on the prize, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is your best bet.
The Meister line is the top dog of the brand’s offerings, and though it was initially lined up with dress watches, the brand decided to ditch the status quo with some welcome additions. Pulling inspiration from control panel instruments that the Junghans manufactured for airplanes and airships in the 1930s, the Ref. 27/3794.00 is a classic mechanical pilot’s watch with a unique twist.
The watch is accurate, reliable, and extremely functional, with a beautifully sculpted case measuring 43.3mm in diameter and 14.4mm. The stainless steel case is DLC coated with scalloped grooves on the side and a bi-directional turning bezel. The brown-gray lacquered dial is highly legible and is protected by a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on both sides. The watch is powered by the J880.4 movement with 38 hours of power reserve and retails for approximately $2,800.
This is a pilot watch that embodies everything precision. It boasts of a legacy that spans over a century and comes in collaboration with Air Zermatt. The watch functions as a wrist-, cockpit-, and table watch.
Having a touch of exclusivity it is limited to only 1,999 pieces, it features a bi-directional turning flange for convenient countdown recording. The watch comes with a black dial housed within a stainless steel case with PVD black coating with a measurement of 46mm.
It is powered by an H-31 automatic movement and boasts a 60-hour power reserve. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal ensures durability, while the black calf leather strap is fastened by a pin buckle. The watch is pegged at $3,295.00, as it exemplifies the perfect fusion of functionality and craftsmanship.
TAG Heuer Autavia (ref. WBE5116.FC8266)
This is a vintage-inspired luxury chronograph watch that combines a retro flair with advanced technology, creating a truly remarkable accessory. It comes with a 42mm steel case and a gradient smoked blue dial.
The watch houses the Caliber 5 movement which ensures impeccable accuracy. Its brown calfskin strap pays homage to the brand’s aviation heritage, while the bidirectional turning bezel, made from ceramic, adds a modern touch to the classic design.
The TAG Heuer Autavia has an “orange peel” texture, complemented by Super-LumiNova-treated silver-toned numerals and hands. When you flip the watch over, you’ll see the iconic engraving of an airplane propeller inside a steering wheel. The TAG Heuer Autavia is a complete leather strap timepiece priced at $3,500. The watch is considered the perfect blend of heritage and performance
Longines Avigation Type A-7 (ref. L2.812.4.53.2)
The Longines Company is rooted in the watchmaking tradition. It’s no surprise they crafted the Longines Avigation Type A-7, as a testament to their commitment to excellence. The watch commands instant attention with its seamless elegance.
Measuring 41mm in diameter and 14.10mm in thickness, the stainless steel watch showcases a black dial adorned with silvered polished hands. The timepiece is powered by automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve.
The Ref. L2.812.4.53.2 was designed with great attention to detail such that its brown alligator leather strap with white stitching adds a touch of warmth and refinement. Additionally, it comes with a steel triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism. At $4,570, this charming watch offers you the perfect blend of heritage and technology to command the skies.
The Breitling Aviator 8 Automatic 41 is a pretty cool watch that would make an excellent choice for fashion-conscious adventurers.
The Ref. A17315101B1A1 comes in a sleek 41mm case that has been finished to the highest sheen. The dial is enchanting with its luminous-filled hands and Arabic numeral hour markers to ensure easy readability.
It is powered by the COSC-certified Breitling Caliber 17 automatic movement. Additionally, it offers precise timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve. The watch is fitted with a stainless steel bracelet that has a folding clasp and a safety latch. Expect to shell out approximately $3,150 for a new piece.
The Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph is a masterpiece pilot’s watch renowned for anyone looking for an enduring companion. The watch demonstrates Montblanc’s commitment to tradition and storytelling.
The Ref. MB117836 has a 42mm case with a satin finish that strikes the right balance between retro and futuristic aesthetics. The black dial has a bi-compass counter at 3 and 9 o’clock, which exudes contemporary allure but also evokes a warm vintage charm.
The watch comes with bi-pushers for seamless activation of the chronograph, while its automatic, self-winding MB 25.11 movement ensures precision. It is water-resistant up to 100 meters and is mounted on a beige leather strap. If you wish to own this timepiece, you should be ready to part away with at least $5,400.
Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT (ref. F4260000)
Fortis is a brand that has a legacy rooted in space exploration. The independent Swiss watchmaker has accompanied astronauts to achieve horological milestones for nearly a century. As early as 1994, the brand was selected to supply precision watches for the Russian space program ROSCOSMOS.
The Ref. F4260000 is crafted for pilots and comes with a titanium case and bracelet, housing a Swiss mechanical movement with a 70-hour power reserve. Its GMT function allows for tracking a second-time zone, while its COSC certification ensures time accuracy.
The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and the markers and handset are lumed to enhance legibility. The watch comes with a 43mm case diameter and is considered a robust timepiece fit for any adventure.
Get ready to embrace the spirit of exploration with the reliable, durable, and fortified Fortis Flieger F-43 Triple-GMT. The watch can be gotten from the brand’s website for $5,507
This pilot watch is a timepiece that embodies the adventurous spirit of the Longines brand. Boasting a rich heritage of legendary pioneers in their conquest of air, land, and sea, the brand drew inspiration from its remarkable history to birth the Longines Spirit Flyback.
The watch features a 42mm stainless steel case, a bi-directional rotating bezel with a ceramic insert, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. The sunray dial is adorned with applied Arabic numerals and PVD bronze-colored hands, all illuminated by Swiss Super-LumiNova.
A transparent sapphire crystal offers a breathtaking view of the automatic Caliber L791. The movement boasts a monocrystalline silicon balance spring with a power reserve of up to 68 hours. The watch is available for around $4,500.
Bremont Martin-Baker MBII
In collaboration with Martin-Baker, a renowned British aviation company, Bremont flexes its muscles in horological expertise with this exceptional timepiece. The MBII is a symbol of resilience and was designed to withstand rigorous testing, including Live Ejection Testing and Extreme Temperature Endurance.
Its contemporary design features sleek numerals and a bronze-colored ‘military challenge coin’ on the case back, representing camaraderie and service. It is powered by a modified caliber 11 1/2″ BE-36AE automatic chronometer movement that keeps it precise and dependable.
It features a 43mm hardened stainless steel case that is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters. The contemporary dial has a clean look with Super-LumiNova coated indexes and hands that ensure clear visibility. It is further protected by a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal that provides durability. Prices begin at $5,470.
IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)
The Mark XX is regarded as a perfect fusion of heritage and innovation. IWC is a renowned luxury watch brand established in 1868 that has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking. The Ref. IW328201 is a testament to the luxury brand’s legacy.
It has a sleek 40mm stainless steel case and a captivating black dial; this watch exudes understated elegance with luminous hands and markers that ensure easy readability in any lighting. The watch is powered by the in-house IWC caliber 3211, a highly accurate and robust movement that boasts an impressive 120-hour power reserve.
It comes with a black leather strap which adds a touch of versatility, but no, it’s not a dress watch. You can purchase it for $6,050 from the brand’s website.
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter (ref. BR0394-SW-CE/SRB)
Bell & Ross is a luxury watch brand renowned for its instrument watches designed for professionals. Inspired by aeronautical tools, the Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter is a timepiece that seamlessly blends functionality and style.
Limited to just 500 pieces, this watch showcases the power of the chronograph complication in the world of sports. It comes with the iconic “circle within a square” design, just like the emblematic cockpit clocks from the 1930s.
The matte black ceramic case measures 42mm in diameter and is 12.8mm thick, making it perfect for daily use. It has a captivating multicolor dial coupled with a sophisticated chronograph, which provides athletes with vital information during their physical activities.
The watch is crafted with precision and boasts double-weighted hands for optimal readability and two additional dial counters for enhanced functionality. Additionally, its water resistance threshold is up to 100 meters and will set you back $5,800 at the retail store.
If you’re daring and resilient, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 by Breitling is for you. Its robust 45mm stainless steel case, striking blue dial, and a choice of stainless steel bracelet or military leather strap qualify this timepiece as a symbol of strength. The watch was designed for adventurers who crave adrenaline.
Additionally, the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 comes with a rugged bezel and glove-friendly grip pattern on the crown and pushers. It has a self-winding mechanical movement, the Breitling 01 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve capacity.
The watch’s chronograph function, luminous numerals, and a water resistance of 300 meters add to its value. It measures 45mm in diameter and 15.7mm in thickness; the Avenger B01 Chronograph 45 is the perfect companion for the classic man. This limited edition timepiece can be yours for $7,500 and is considered an investment in both style and adventure.
Zenith Pilot Automatic (ref. 03.4000.3620/21.I001)
ZENITH is reputed for its pursuit of precision and exploration. Little wonder they introduced a timepiece that invites you to soar through the open skies. It comes with a 40mm steel case and an oversized crown, blending the brand’s aviation heritage with a contemporary touch. The black dial is adorned with luminous Arabic numerals and guides you through the dark with clarity.
The watch comes with interchangeable black Cordura-affect rubber and brown calfskin leather straps, giving you the flexibility to personalize your style effortlessly. The watch is powered by the El Primero 3620 automatic high-frequency manufacture movement with a power reserve of approximately 60 hours. The Zenith Pilot Automatic watch is priced at $7,500.
Cartier Santos Large (ref. WSSA0018)
Inspired by aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos Ref.WSSA0018 embodies the spirit of adventure and impeccable craftsmanship. The watch comes with a stainless steel case that measures 39.8 mm in diameter and 9.08 mm in thickness. The Santos showcases a silver-opaline dial adorned with Roman numeral hour markers and sword-shaped hands.
It is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 1847 MC, which offers precise timekeeping with 23 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve capacity. The watch has a steel bracelet with the “SmartLink” adjustment system for a personalized fit. The Ref.WSSA0018 also includes an interchangeable calfskin strap. You can indulge in the luxurious lifestyle of those who own a Santos watch by shelling out $9,400.
Behold the Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re-Edition, a watch that honors its iconic ancestor with an unwavering commitment to detail. Breitling is a brand celebrated globally for its outstanding contribution to the aviation sector. In the 1930s, the Swiss Marque produced an aviator chronograph that helped pilots calculate elapsed time.
The brand here resurrects the essence of the original Navitimer from 1959 with a narrative of historic elegance. When you cop this watch, you get for yourself a 41mm stainless steel case, which mirrors the dimensions of its vintage muse with a height of 12.9mm. An alluring all-black dial reigns supreme with tone-on-tone small second, 30-minute, and 12-hour chronograph counters.
The Ref. 806 1959 is shielded by a gracefully domed Plexiglas and is powered by the COSC-certified hand-wound Breitling Manufacture Caliber B09. The robust movement exudes accuracy and reliability while boasting an impressive 70-hour power reserve. The watch is secured by a sleek black leather strap and is priced at $9,050.
After 70 years of captivating hearts, the Navitimer returns with a touch of modernity. Featuring a sleek profile, a domed crystal, and a lustrous interplay of polished and brushed metal elements, the B01 Chronograph 43 defines the collection’s renewed allure.
The dial shines in a captivating shade of black while the cherished AOPA wings once again grace the 12 o’clock position. It is encased in 43mm stainless steel and is powered by the reliable Breitling B01 movement. This self-winding mechanical wonder boasts a remarkable 70-hour power reserve capacity.
With its bidirectional slide rule, 1/4th-second chronograph, and water resistance of up to 3 bars, the Navitimer is ready for any adventure. You can embrace its legacy and its spirit of flight for $9,700.
IWC Big Pilot 43 Spitfire (ref. IW329701)
The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire is a timepiece that combines military heritage with contemporary style. IWC is known for its history of crafting watches for military pilots since the 1930s and has created remarkable watches inspired by its iconic designs.
The Ref. IW329701 comes in a durable titanium case that measures 43mm in diameter and 14.4mm in height. Its sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters ensure its resilience. Powered by the Caliber 82100 movement, this watch offers precise timekeeping with a frequency of 28,800 beats per hour.
The legible dial pays homage to its military roots, while the brown calfskin strap adds a touch of elegance. Embrace the spirit of adventure with the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire for $8,950.
Rolex Air King (ref. 126900)
With a 40mm Oystersteel case and a sleek black dial, the Air King Ref. 126900 flawlessly combines aeronautical heritage with modern elegance. The dial features navigational time readings, large numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and the iconic Air-King lettering from the 1950s.
Crafted with corrosion-resistant Oystersteel, the watch is built to last and features an Oyster bracelet for durability and comfort. Powered by the Manufacture Rolex Caliber 3230, the Air-King provides precise timekeeping with a 70-hour power reserve.
Its scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and water resistance of up to 100 meters means you can take this beauty straight from the skies to the oceans. The highly legible Chromalight display shines with long-lasting blue luminescence, so this watch can be easily worn in a variety of scenarios. The luxury chronometer-certified watch is priced at $10,130.
Breitling Super AVI B04 Chronograph GMT 46 P-51 Mustang (ref. AB04453A1B1A1)
Breitling’s history is intertwined with the world of aviation. The Super AVI P-51 Mustang is inspired by a famed aircraft built by the North American Aviation Department in the 1940s.
The watch features a rugged 46mm case with an oversized crown and knurled bezel for optimal grip, even with gloved hands. Its dial features large Arabic numerals for excellent legibility, while the 24-hour marking on the inner bezel and the red-tipped GMT hand enables effortless tracking of a second-time zone.
Offering an impressive power reserve of 70 hours is the COSC-certified in-house movement, the Caliber B04. It is fitted with a stainless-steel bracelet and retails for $11,100.
IWC Big Pilot (ref. IW501001)
The Big Pilot Ref. IW501001 is a contemporary Illustration of the antique “B-Uhr” used by German pilots during WWII. The luxury watch is crafted in a round, entirely brushed stainless steel case with an oversized onion-shaped crown engraved with the IWC logo at 3′.
The watch’s face has a black metallic sunburst appearance that serves as a high-contrast background for the printing of the Arabic numerals, minutes track, and calendar indication. The mechanical self-winding 52110 movement with 31 jewels offered an impressive 7-day power reserve.
The watch comes with a black calfskin leather strap and a tang buckle, ensuring both comfort and durability. You can get the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Ref. IW501001 for $10,965 from the brand’s website.
IWC Pilot Timezoner Chronograph (ref. IW395001)
Perfect for frequent fliers, the Timezoner Chronograph Ref. IW395001 pays homage to the early days of aviation when pilots relied on their watches for navigation and timing. With a 45mm stainless steel case and a black embossed leather strap, this watch is perfect for fashion-conscious aviator enthusiasts.
The black dial features Arabic numeral hour markers and luminescent hands, while the 89760 automatic movement provides reliable precision with a 68-hour power reserve. With functions such as GMT, a second-time zone function, and a date display, this timepiece is tailored to meet the needs of pilots and international travelers. The dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the watch is priced at $11,900.
Blancpain Air Command (ref. AC02-12B40-63B)
Famous for creating one of the most complicated mechanical watches on earth (the Blancpain 1735), Blancpain is a major player in the aviation watch market. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer supplied American military pilots with tactical watches in the 1950s, and the Air Command was an official military aviation watch with the Colombian Air Force.
The legendary aviation watch is reborn in the Ref. AC02-12B40-63B; a watch that ticks all the right boxes. Sophisticated aesthetics? Check. Superlative functionality? Tick. Legendary history and authenticity? Yup. Legibility and military vintage allure? Overdose!
At 42.5 mm x 13. 7 mm, the case of the watch is bulky for sure, but that’s the point. Every adventurer needs an eye-catching watch with a good measure of masculine impact. The dial is clean, uncluttered, and mesmerizing, with a 30-minute counter in a subdial at three o’clock and a 12-hour counter situated at nine o’clock. Expect to pay around $20,000 for a new Air Command Ref. AC02-12B40-63B with a blue leather strap.
IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503605)
Since the dawn of aviation watches, right up to today, IWC has built a solid collection of some of the best pilot watches in the world. The Swiss luxury watch manufacturer influenced the cockpit-instrument look of classic pilot’s watches during the 1930s, at least as far as aesthetics are concerned.
The Big Pilot collection is the brand’s flagship model with a diverse range of exceptional luxury pilot timepieces. The Perpetual Calendar Ref. IW503605 is a fashionable and functional timepiece with a stainless steel case that follows the Big Pilot’s Watch formula.
It is big at 46.2 x 15.4 mm, so again, we have a big watch that evokes a real appeal and makes you stand out from the crowd. Everything about this watch screams superlative quality. From the deeply knurled and oversized onion-shaped crown to the dark blue metallic sunburst dial, we are sold.
Command the skies with this enchanting pilot’s watch, which will integrate beautifully with business or casual attire and add a transcendent edge to any outfit. The watch is powered by IWC’s in-house caliber 52615 with 7 days or 168 hours of power reserve. It retails for $39,000.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 (ref. 82035/000R-9359)
What would a list of the best pilot watches be without the Historiques American 1921? Vacheron Constantin is one of the oldest watch brands in the world, with an uninterrupted history of creating high-end watches since its foundation in 1755.
The Genevan brand created some supremely elegant timepieces for the American market in the 1920s, and the Ref. 82035/000R-9359 follows the spirit of the original very closely. The eccentric watch has a pink gold cushion-shaped case that measures 40 x 40 mm with a crown at the top right corner of the case.
The striking piece has a diagonal time display with Breguet-style hands and black-painted Arabic numerals that allows you to read the time without needing to turn your wrist. The brass dial is excellently executed with a railway dial train and a small seconds between 3 and 4 o’clock.
Visible through the transparent sapphire glass case back is the prominent Calibre 4400 AS with a power reserve of 65 hours. The watch is equipped with a half-matte dark brown alligator strap and retails for approximately $49,000.
Richard Mille RM 39-01 Automatic Winding Flyback Chronograph Aviation
Richard Mille is a brand that takes watchmaking beyond the 21st century with its technical wizardry. Famous for creating some of the world’s most complicated and idiosyncratic timepieces, the Swiss luxury watch company is one of the greatest Haute Horology players in the world.
The brand is also known to release technically-complicated racing machines for the wrist, so it’s no surprise that the Ref. RM 39-01 displays highly technical and extremely sophisticated features. Designed as a flight navigation instrument, the watch is encased in 50mm of titanium and is mounted on a black rubber strap.
The skeletonized dial is both stunning and sophisticated and houses different complications. The watch features a flyback chronograph, E6-B slide rule function, GMT/UTC function, and a semi-instantaneous date display below 12 o’clock.
Revealed through the porthole in the back is the grade 5 titanium RMAC2 caliber with its 55 hours of power reserve. At the time of writing this article, the watch is priced at $165,000, so yes, it was made solely for top collectors, but what harm is there in dreaming?
Patek Philippe Grand Complications Travel Time (ref. 5520P-001)
Founded all the way back in 1839, Patek Philippe is famous for creating some of the most highly coveted watches in the world. The prestigious luxury watchmaker has a history of horological brilliance for almost 200 years with a small (yet significant) contribution to aviation history.
The Ref. 5520P-001 is a decidedly masculine timepiece that reignites the doused flames of the brand’s Pilot range with a superlative technical appeal and elegance. The case of the watch is crafted from platinum, one most precious of the noble metals, and has a diameter of 42.2 mm with a height of 11.57 mm.
The design of the case seems overwhelming, with a crown at 4 o’clock and three additional pushers, but everything is symmetrical and well-balanced. The watch has a time-zone function that is especially useful in air travel, with a 24-hour alarm mechanism and a hammer that strikes on a classic gong.
It is powered by the self-winding caliber AL 30-660 S C FUS, a movement comprised of 574 parts. The watch is worn on a matte black calfskin strap and retails for approximately $220,000.
Aside from the stunning visual quality of the watch, the Skywalker X-33 from Omega is a standout pilot’s watch. This is for more than one reason, but to me, it’s the multi-function timekeeping and ESA certification.
The ESA certification highlights that the watch is tested and approved by the European Space Agency. For me personally, this says a lot about long-term reliability. Nevertheless, it didn’t take long for me to notice the intricacies of how this watch likes to keep time.
Even though the design also takes quite a bit of inspiration from astronauts, it’s become a pilot’s favorite over time. To many pilots, the multi-function design is one of the biggest selling points. I can say the same for myself, as the multiple time zones, missions and elapsed time, and perpetual calendar are great to have on the wrist.
On top of all the traditional features and modern tech in this watch, you get a seamless blend of analog and digital features. Keep in mind this doesn’t take away from the luxurious nature of this watch.
I had to try one for myself, and it was the feeling of luxury with the functionality of tech that made me want to keep it for the long run. You can find an Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 for yourself, retailing at $5,900 at this time.
Conclusion
Pilot watches will always hold a special place in the hearts of professional aviators and aviation enthusiasts alike.
Not only because they take us back to the fascinating years of the past but also because they are a critical tool in a class of their own that will forever remain relevant.
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