Author: Samar

Anyone coming into the watch hobby in the last 30 years likely has a story or anecdote of when they first realized that not all watches require batteries. 

As a millennial growing up in the 1980s and 90s, it made sense that all watches needed something to power them. And with the Swatch, Fossil, and digital Casio watches of the day representing the majority of timepieces I saw, it was clear that this must be the mode of power for all watches. Even the miniature grandfather wall clock in our living room was battery-powered. 

It wasn’t until my late teenage years that I finally learned that some watches, mechanical automatic watches, to be exact, were powered by something else. A mainspring, something wholly physical, without electricity and circuitry, as I had imagined in quartz watches being in all those years before.

What Is an Automatic Watch? 

Automatic watches are a marvel of engineering and craftsmanship. Unlike quartz watches that rely on batteries, automatic watches are powered by the motion of the wearer’s wrist. Inside the watch, there is a weighted rotor that spins as the wrist moves. This motion winds a mainspring that powers the watch’s movement.

The mainspring is connected to a series of gears that regulate the timekeeping of the watch. One of these gears is the escapement, which controls the release of energy from the mainspring. The escapement allows the gears to move in a controlled manner, keeping accurate time.

To ensure the watch stays wound and functioning, automatic watches also have a power reserve. This power reserve is a small amount of energy stored in the mainspring that allows the watch to continue running for a given amount of time, even when not being worn.

Overall, automatic watches are a testament to the ingenuity and precision of traditional mechanical watchmaking. They combine sophisticated mechanics and a sense of timeless design to create a timepiece that is both reliable and aesthetically beautiful.

Brief History of Automatic Movements

It’s believed that the first automatic watch movements were invented as early as the 1770s, with Swiss watchmaker Abraham-Louis Perrelet of Le Locle providing the most credible evidence for a successful design. 

It was around 1776 or 1777 when his self-winding mechanism for pocket watches utilized an oscillating weight inside the watch, moving up and down to power it. That was also when another Abraham, Abraham-Louis Breguet, to be exact, became interested in automatic movements. 

Breguet’s first few attempts at a self-winding mechanism with a barrel remontoir proved successful. However, the manufacture was too expensive and complex to be sold en masse. It was then in 1779 when Breguet learned of Perrelet’s watches. He poured over the designs and, through his studies, improved upon them, producing many self-winding watches well into 1810. 

And yet, despite the advancements and patents filed up to this point, in the nearly one hundred years following Breguet’s work, automatic watches continued to be rare until the introduction of the wristwatch in the 20th century. 

After World War I, wristwatches became popular for their proven practicality and convenience on the battlefield. This led to a renewed interest in self-winding mechanisms, and various types (side-weight, center-weight, unidirectional winding rotor system) were soon applied in wristwatch form. 

Perhaps most well known today is Rolex’s “perpetual” self-winding rotor movement, first introduced in 1931, featuring a semi-circular shaped oscillating weight able to rotate 360 degrees freely in both directions, enabling their watches of the day to run up to 35 hours on a full charge (~70 hours is becoming the new industry standard). 

Automatic vs Manual Wind movements 

When considering mechanical watch options, it’s important to note that automatic and manual watches have particular pros and cons. 

Automatic watches, especially those from the 20th century onward, were developed with modern convenience and technical advances in mind. No longer needing to wind your watch meant less time needing to spend setting it if it died overnight, fewer chances of forgetting to screw down or push in the crown leading to water or moisture ingress, and less overall wearing down of the crown threads, which would lead to maintenance and repair costs down the road. 

But, with these modern conveniences, it can also be argued that automatic watches lose a certain romanticism found with traditional manually wound watches. The ritualistic winding of your watch daily in meditation, the beauty and comfort of thinner cases (after all, a winding rotor adds additional thickness), and the often accompanied display casebacks allowing you to view the movement in full without obstruction from a winding rotor. 

All of these attributes in manual watches lead to a more purist collector’s approach to watchmaking, and you’ll mostly find that the dressier traditional pieces will feature a manual movement. In contrast, the automatic watches in the market tend to be sports-centered, rugged, everyday pieces capable of taking a beating.

Automatic vs Quartz Movements

On the topic of quartz, we should also consider the benefits of automatic timepieces. If we’re to accept that manual watches have a certain romanticism tied to their mechanical “purity”, we can also apply this to automatic watches when positioning them against their quartz competitors. 

Automatic watches being self-powered continue the tradition of mechanical horology, which was nearly wiped out in the 1970s and 80s during the Quartz Crisis. For this reason, along with the overabundance of cheaply made and widely available quartz watches in today’s market, quartz often gets a bad name in watch collecting circles.

Yet, there are brands at the luxury and haute horology end of the spectrum creating their own quartz watches at the highest levels: Grand Seiko, and even independent darling, F.P. Journe, come to mind. 

What can luxury quartz watches provide? Reliability, hyper-accurate timing (+/- 10 seconds a year, in some calibers), less servicing, and lower long-term costs due to fewer mechanical parts. On the flip side, automatic watches will be more prone to servicing, much less accurate (-4 to +6 seconds per day being COSC standard), and more susceptible to impact, wear and tear.

What to Look For in Automatic Watches Under $1000?

So, you’ve decided to go automatic. What are some considerations to make in the sub-$1000 watch category?

Brand

There are many watch brands that occupy the sub-$1000 price category. The most popular with the widest variety and range of styles are Seiko, Hamilton, Citizen, and Tissot, to name a few. Additionally, in the microbrand category, brands like Unimatic or Halios are independently run and often combine watch movements from outside manufacturers.   

Category

Perhaps the most important is to understand your use case. Do you require an everyday watch capable of the rigors of daily activity? Perhaps something dressier for formal occasions? Or do you need something more specific, like a dive watch to serve as backup on your next dive trip? Or maybe a field watch to help you on your next hike? 

Most of the watches we’ll discuss fall under these categories, with dive and field watches being the most popular for their rugged reliability and practicality, as well as dress watch options for those inclined. 

Movement and Power Reserve

Choosing an automatic watch is a conscious commitment to mechanical horology. While you don’t need to be a dictionary on every single watch movement, manufacturer, and jewel count, exposing oneself to automatic watches in the sub-$1000 range can be very beneficial. It opens up the ability to better understand the common calibers and their respective power reserves and qualities often used by various brands in the range. 
For example, the Seiko caliber 6R35, with its 70-hour power reserve (NH35 equivalent), is widely used across many watch styles and brands in this price bracket. Getting used to the terminology is a great way to foster an appreciation and deepen knowledge of the hobby.

Let’s explore. 

The Best Automatic Watches Under $1000

1. Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium

Tissot operates within the Swatch Group’s expansive portfolio of brands, representing the sub $1,000 price point among its brethren brands like Omega, Blancpain, and Breguet. Despite occupying a relatively more affordable price point, Tissot punches well above its weight, offering products that beat out competitors nearly twice the price in form, finishing, and function. 

The Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium is a perfect example of this. On paper and on the wrist, the Gentleman is a fairly straightforward watch toeing the line between sports and dress, with a 40mm diameter case, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 11.5mm thickness with inoffensive indices, hands, and dial text design.

But, where the Gentleman really shines is with its movement – the Powermatic 80 caliber with an 80-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring for better timekeeping and anti-magnetism. Both factors are incredible for a watch that retails at just under $800 and is feature sets more widely applied in timepieces multiples of this price.  

Retail Price: $795.00  

2. Tissot Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80

A 300m diver with dashing good looks, the Seastar 1000 Powermatic 80 is another great value proposition from the Tissot brand for those looking for something sportier and water-resistant. 

Measuring 43mm in diameter, 49.6mm lug-to-lug, and 13.3mm thick, the Seastar is not a small watch by any means but should fit well, filling the slot as your modern diver. 

And with its gradient blue dial, ceramic bezel (rarely seen on dive watches under $1000 until recent years), and 6 o’clock date window (so as not to upset dial symmetry), it’s truly a looker. 

Powering the watch is the Swatch Group’s ETA Powermatic 80 movement. While the Seastar doesn’t have a silicon hairspring or COSC certification, the 23-jewel automatic movement will still push 80 hours of power reserve – a useful feat when putting the watch down for a few days and picking it back up without needing to recharge it. 

Just keep in mind the 21mm lug width, which might be a minor nuisance if you plan to wear it on aftermarket straps.

Retail Price: $725.00

3. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

A smash hit ever since its debut, the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 is a darling of the watch community for a good reason: handsome integrated steel bracelet styled looks, a solid mechanical movement, wide availability, and a number of attractive classic dial colors to boot. 

The PRX came into the market just as the steel sports integrated bracelet craze started to hit, and even as other brands continue to put their best offerings into the fray, none have yet captured the charm of the PRX. 

Looks aside, the Powermatic 80 housed inside the PRX is again a star. With an anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring holding an 80-hour power reserve in a single barrel, the wearer is also treated to a sapphire display caseback offering a view of the movement and rotor. 

Measuring nearly 40mm in diameter, 10.9mm thick, and 51mm lug-to-lug (from the actual bracelet point where the lug holes are found), the PRX should fit most wrists pleasurably.

Retail Price: $675.00

4. Seiko SRPE03 “Turtle”

The Seiko SRPE03 “Turtle” is a timepiece that blends rugged style with functionality. The overall design of the watch is a nod to Seiko’s rich history of producing dive watches, in particular, the 6309 originally launched in the 1970s into the 1980s. 

Though previous iterations of the “Turtle” exist in the SRP777 line and its color variations, the SRPE03 serves as a bit of an upgrade featuring a sapphire crystal with date/day magnifier, anti-reflective coating, and a stainless steel bezel with ceramic insert, the latter a feature not commonly seen in watches within the price point. 

Overall, despite the 45mm diameter case size (13.4mm thick with 47mm lug-to-lug), the watch wears well on a variety of wrist sizes due to the age-old “Seiko magic” of making big watches that wear small, in part due to the cushion case and relatively short lug-to-lug distance. With the added upgrades in the bold Turtle style, the SRPE03 is a great choice as a go-to diver in any watch collection.

Retail Price: $625.00

5. Seiko SPB117 “Alpinist”

The original watch launched in 1959, named the “Alpinist”, was, in fact, Seiko’s first true sports watch. In an era when mountaineering was taking hold for the general public, “yama-otoko” (Japanese mountaineers) required a watch that could handle the rigors of the outdoors. Water and shock resistance were of the utmost importance for a watch to handle the task. 

Today, the Alpinist has evolved but still holds true to those original principles of shock and water resistance. Now featuring an internal rotating compass ring, date with magnifier window (sapphire crystal), and the 6R35 movement featuring 70 hours of power reserve, the modern Alpinist is simply handsome in execution. 

And at 39.5mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and 46.4mm lug-to-lug, it’s also wearable in that Goldilocks zone of measurements for a majority of wrist sizes. And did we mention that water resistance? 200m for a non-dive watch is surely overkill, but we’ll take it.

Retail Price: $750.00 

6. Seiko SPB101 “Sumo”

A fan favorite ever since its launch in 2007, the Seiko “Sumo” is one of those Seiko divers that just about any Seiko dive watch fan would and should try out at any point in their watch collecting journey. 

Newly updated in the SPB101 (and its various color variants), the current generation of Sumo watches has a few new features sure to please the fans: a sapphire crystal which replaces the proprietary “Hardlex” of yesteryear, and the 6R35 movement with its 70-hour power reserve and 3Hz beat rate.

And though a ceramic bezel is not available in this line, for a few hundred dollars more, look to the “King Sumo” line (ex: reference SPB323) if ceramic is a must on your dive watch checklist. 

Where the Sumo shines is in its case shape and finishing for the price; lyre-style twisted lugs on its 45mm diameter and 12.6mm thick case help the watch wear smaller, though 52.6mm lug-to-lug may prove a challenge to smaller wrists if not worn on a strap.

Retail Price: $850.00

7. Seiko SPB143

Is there any current production Seiko dive watch more popular or celebrated in the watch collector fandom than the SPB143? No need to answer that; the SPB143 really is that good, and for a good reason. 

Following the trend of vintage aesthetics in modern-day build and sizing, the SPB143 is a modern reinterpretation of the legendary 62MAS, Seiko’s original skin diver launched in 1965. What it gets right is the sizing, detail, and level of finishing at such a great price, culminating in a perfect package for anyone looking to jump up to the next level in Seiko’s dive watch range. 

The case is 40.5mm in diameter, 13.2mm thick, and 46.5mm lug-to-lug, ensuring a fit comfortable for most wrists. And if you’ve experienced Seiko divers before, this one will feel altogether familiar and just right on the wrist; a more refined and compact Seiko SKX, if you will. Finished off with a 6R35 movement (70-hour power reserve) and sapphire crystal (that’s right; no Hardlex here), and you’ve got a tidy and handsome package of Seiko diver goodness.

Retail Price: $1,200.00

8. Seiko SPB077

Following the successful launch of modern reinterpretations of their famous dive watches of yesteryear (Such as the SRP777 “Turtle” two years prior), Seiko released the SPB077 in 2018 as a new interpretation of the 6159-7000 Professional diver, arguably Seiko’s most iconic watch design with its bold monocoque front loader case, 4:00 screw down crown, and Hi-Beat movement (I admit, I’m biased). 

The new diver features modern watchmaking tech such as a  proprietary super hard case “Diashield” coating, a sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective coating, and a streamlined case design (44mm diameter, 13.1mm thickness, 50mm lug-to-lug).

However, it lacks the monocoque case (screw down caseback here) and hi-beat movement for a dressier, “daily diver” look. With its focus on looks, the SPB077 is as handsome in the office or the ocean depths and is a strong contender for your one contemporary dive watch in a collection.

Retail Price: $1,050.00 

9. Seiko SRPB43 “Cocktail Time”

It’s often posited that Seiko “makes great dials”. In a modern context where watch enthusiasts are blessed to have such a wide breadth of choices from the brand, with dials of all sorts of textures, colors, materials, and patterns, it’s no wonder that “great” Seiko dials have become a given in the watch collecting community. 

In truth, Seiko has had a focus on strong dial design from the start (the linen dials of the King and Grand Seiko watches of the 1960s and 70s are a personal favorite). But it was with the launch of the “Cocktail Time” range of watches in recent years that this started to re-enter the public consciousness. 

The SRPB43 “Cool” dial was launched in 2017 as a new series within the line, once again inspired by various cocktails taking color and shape within their respective dial designs. 

Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug, it wears a bit larger than a traditional dress watch, though the fantastic design and radiating dial can certainly be pulled off as one, particularly when paired with the stock strap. At the least, the watch is an eye-catching conversation starter at any formal dinner party.

Retail Price: $425.00 

10. Seiko SRPG03

Though Seiko is widely known for its robust and capable divers, as well as its variety of eye-catching dress watches with spectacular and beautiful dials, the SRPG03 is a bit of an anomaly in that it occupies both worlds. And it should really be more popular. 

Evoking the skin diver style watches of the 1960s, the SRPG03 is a “sporty” dress watch that combines an H-style case and (non-rotatable) bezel ala dive watch style, with unexpected Presage range dial finishing and design. Perhaps it’s this mix that confuses prospective buyers, who aren’t sure what the watch aims to be. 

But for those focusing on looks and aesthetic beauty, the 41mm diameter case (12.5mm thick and 48mm lug-to-lug) and sunburst dial with gold-colored indices is a revelation, unmatched by watches priced at nearly double the amount. Keeping in mind the 50m water resistance rating, it will still handle the occasional dip in the pool but will work best in the office when impressing others with your style.

Retail Price: $525.00

11. Seiko SPB165

You may be familiar with Seiko’s “Grammar of Design”, attributed to Taro Tanaka and his angular diamond-like cases, created as a distillation of Japanese aesthetic beauty in watch design (look no further than the Grand Seiko 44GS, for example).

And while the fundamental “grammar” has proliferated throughout Seiko watches in the decades since, perhaps no greater example in the Presage range of watches can be found than in the “Sharp Edged” series SPB165. 

The sharp, 44GS-like angles are all there, coupled with various polished and brushed surfaces strategically placed to accentuate light and shadow play to the user. The super hard coating ensures protection against scratches, and the elegant design is stressed further with temperate case sizing: 39.3mm in diameter, 11.1mm thick (or thin, if we’re being honest), and 47.2mm lug-to-lug.

100m of water resistance is a bonus, making the SPB165 a perfect daily modern sports watch with the all-familiar stylings of Seiko’s past. 

Retail Price: $1,000.00

12. Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M (“Challenge Diver” aka “Fujitsubo”)

No stranger to the sub-$1000 price range, the Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200M is yet another solid titanium dive watch offering from the Japanese brand. Though mostly known for their quartz-powered Eco-Drive watches, the in-house calibre 9051 powering the Promaster is anti-magnetic to 200 Gauss, running at a frequency of 4Hz and 42 hours of power reserve.

However, it could use a bit more dialing in on precision, given its deviation rating of -10 to +20 seconds a day. Measuring 41mm in diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 48.5mm lug-to-lug, the Promaster is a modern dive watch in size, despite harkening back to the original “Challenge Diver” of 1977 in design.

In fact, it’s a very near recreation of the infamous diver from the 70s for those looking for a more vintage-inspired look and is a great alternative for those wanting to step away from the usual Seiko dive watch suspects in the price range. 

Retail Price: $795.00

13. Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic (AL-525NW4S26)

In the realm of pilot watches around the $1,000 price point, Alpina has released many models within the Startimer Pilot range. Among the collection, the Pilot Automatic Petroleum Blue 41 is particularly attractive.

Measuring 41mm in diameter, 11.5mm thick, and water resistant up to 100m, the “Petroleum” matte blue of the dial is contrasted nicely with white Arabic numerals and indices with luminous treatment for visibility in the dark. 

The hands are hand-polished silver in color and also lumed for increased visibility. The watch’s looks, bezeled design, and finishing are particular highpoints, along with its convex sapphire crystal treated with anti-reflection coating.

The AL-525 caliber automatic movement features a 38-hour power reserve and is available on a brown calf leather strap with off-white stitching to help pull in the white indices and numerals on the dial.

Retail Price: $1,195.00

14. Laco Pilot Augsburg 42

Produced in Germany, Laco was founded in 1925 and continues to manufacture a range of classic Flieger-style watches and contemporary designs today. Of the former, the Laco Pilot Augsburg 42 is perhaps the best deal in Flieger-style watches available on the market. 

The stark black dial with numerals and hands filled with luminescent Superluminova C3 are unmistakable, coupled with a brown calf leather strap and rivets, a look particularly evoking the mid-20th century design the Augsburg 42 aims to reproduce. 

At 42mm in diameter, 11.75mm thick, and 50mm lug-to-lug, the Augsburg 42 is great for a pilot watch, offering high levels of visibility across its open dial. Powered by the well-known and proven workhorse Miyota 821A movement, the watch allows for both manual and automatic winding, the former through the use of its relatively large crown, remaining faithful to the styles of yesteryear.

Retail Price: $410.00

15. Marathon 36mm Arctic MSAR Automatic (WW194026-WD)

Launched in 2020, the “Arctic” white dial variation of the 36mm Marathon MSAR (short for “Medium Search And Rescue”) has become a cult-classic offering among true tool watch enthusiasts. Indeed, the Canada-based brand has continued to produce watches for various military forces worldwide since its founding in 1939 and is proven effective day in and day out by those putting them to hard use in the field. 

The Arctic MSAR is a bit quirky and probably not for everyone. It’s small and chunky, with a 36mm diameter case, 14mm thickness, and 43mm lug-to-lug, but that quirkiness is definitely part of the charm. It’s a watch that wears rather comfortably despite the odd sizing, and with the Arctic’s white dial contrasted with black numerals and outlined hands, it’s highly visible for such a small dial. Throw in the tritium gas tubes for added legibility in the dark, and the MSAR takes the cake on rugged reliability and altogether charm.

Retail Price: $1,100.00 (on strap)

16. Orient Kamasu

As Seiko dive watches continue an upwards march in price and specifications, Orient Watch (a subsidiary of Seiko Epson) continues to fill in the void left by the brand. When the cult classic diving watch, the Seiko SKX, was finally discontinued, the Orient Kamasu revealed itself to be a classically styled alternative for those looking for another capable yet affordable Japanese diver. 

At 41.8mm in diameter, 12.8mm thick, and 46.8mm lug-to-lug, and offered in a range of attractive colors (red, blue, black, green), the Kamasu is an agreeable size for most wrists, with punchy dive watch styling inspired by the fearsome barracuda with teeth-like markers and hands. The sapphire crystal is particularly of note in the price range, and the 40-hour power reserve caliber F6922 is known to be accurate and reliable. 

Retail Price: $550.00 

17. Doxa Sub 200

For a company that co-developed the helium escape valve with Rolex in the 1960s and was worn and retailed by Jacques-Yves Cousteau himself, it can be said that Doxa received the short end of the dive watch history stick for being a bit more under the radar and lesser known than the influential dive watch companies of the day. The classic cushion case Sub 300 and Sub 300T lines were eventually revived and built upon in the early 2000s. 

The brand, undergoing a change in leadership more recently, has entered a bit of a renaissance in popularity for its iconic designs and colorful dials across its range of dive watches. As an entry-level option, the Sub 200 (measuring 42mm in diameter, 15mm thick, and 45mm lug-to-lug) is a great introduction to the brand, with its combination of lyre lug case shape, beads of rice bracelet and full diving chops (rated to 200m water resistance). A no-brainer for a watch oozing vintage style. The only question is, which color?

Retail Price: $990.00

18. Unimatic U1 Classic

Founded by two industrial designers in 2015, Milan-based Unimatic produces minimalist sport watches capturing the essence of aesthetic design, functionality, and affordability. The U1 “Classic” is just that. 

Reduced to a spartan black bezel and plain dial decorated only with luminescent markers and hands, with the UNIMATIC branding and “CLASSIC” badge following suit, this watch can be considered the “Chuck Taylor” shoes of the watch world; it goes with everything. 

And while the clean design is a focus, the workhorse Seiko NH-35 movement powering it inside and 300m of water resistance proves the U1 Classic to be a powerhouse workhorse in its own right, ready to be put through the paces of daily wear and more. Measuring 41.5mm in diameter (with bezel), 49mm lug-to-lug, and 13.6mm thick, and sold on a nylon strap, if you’re looking for a clean and capable watch, look no further than the U1 Classic.

Retail Price: $550.00

19. Certina DS PH200M

A historically fan-favorite design of Certina, the DS PH200M dive watch was most recently updated in 2020 to include a sapphire crystal and a black or blue dial with gilt accents. Based on the original 1968 DS PH200M, one of the first Certina dive watches, the watch is most characterized by its charming broad bezel (ceramic upon the recent update) with a fully graduated bezel insert and clean cross-hair dial design. 

At 42.8mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and 51mm lug-to-lug, the watch isn’t modest but is certainly fitting for a dive watch on a modern scale and should fit nicely on most wrists when paired with a NATO-style strap. Completed with the Caliber ETA Powermatic 80.611, the 80 hours of power reserve is yet again a Swatch Group bonus movement for the price range.

Retail Price: $980.00

20. Timex M79

Looking for a larger, beefier, mechanical version of the infamous Timex Q? Look no further than the Timex M79, similarly based on the 1970s aesthetics made famous in recent years with the quartz Q. 

Measuring 40mm in diameter and 14.4m thick, with 46mm lug-to-lug measurement, the bolder case size of the M79 helps accentuate the sharp angles and impressive case finishing for a watch within the affordable price point. 

With a unidirectional wide bezel, and date and day function, the M79 is powered by an automatic Miyota caliber featuring 42 hours of power reserve, quickset day/date, and a 21,600bph frequency.  

Retail Price: $289.00

21. Orient Bambino 38mm (RA-AC0M04Y)

A long-time go-to contemporary classic dress model in the watch world for many just entering the hobby, the Orient Bambino was recently re-introduced in a more compact 38mm size. To be exact, the watch measures 38.4mm in diameter, 12.5mm thick, and 44mm lug-to-lug compared to its larger 40.5mm variant in past years. 

Powered by the in-house automatic Orient Calibre F6724, a new generation movement now featuring hacking seconds and hand-winding (along with automatic winding via the rotor), the 38mm Bambino is striking and now better suited for a variety of wrists in its smaller size. Of note is the domed mineral glass, accentuating the champagne dial and ageless looks. 

Retail Price: $410.00

22. Stowa Marine Classic 36 (Arabic or Roman)

Stowa is a watch manufacturer more commonly associated with Flieger-style pilot watches. Yet within the Marine Classic range, Stowa creates some of the best modern takes on classic Marine chronometer watches with varying levels of customization (ex: movement, dial type, with or without date). 

Think clean white dials, time-only functionality, and temperature-blued steel hands in a classic case shape worn on leather straps. When selecting an automatic Sellita caliber SW200, you’re getting a ton of value and charm in timeless, classic style (36mm diameter, 10.2mm height, 44.6mm lug-to-lug).

Retail Price: 980.00 EUR

23. Hamilton Jazzmaster Auto (H32475640)

The Jazzmaster line within Hamilton’s range of watches has long been known for its contemporary and modern style, coupled with the refined construction and finishing of the brand at affordable prices. 

In the Jazzmaster Auto (reference H32475640), we have an attractive blue dial daily dress watch in 40mm diameter and 11.05mm thickness, with a blue sun-brushed dial and silver diamond shape markers, silver minutes track on the outer dial, and dauphine style hands. The blue datewheel with white text is a nice touch speaking to the level of detail applied by the brand when most others would likely opt for a white datewheel for manufacturing efficiency. 

Retail Price: $895.00

24. Hamilton Khaki Field Auto 38 (H70455133)

The Khaki Field range of watches from Hamilton is synonymous with field watches at this point. And for a good reason. Built with practicality in mind, the Khaki Field Automatic represents a classic field watch style with a seconds track, hour, and 24-hour marker dial, all housed within a 38mm case (11mm thickness, 47mm lug-to-lug). 

Upgraded with an automatic H-10 movement (modified ETA C07.111 with 80-hour power reserve) and steel bracelet, the watch is also rated to 100m water resistance, proving its field watch style is ready and capable for any adventure thrown at it.

Retail Price: $725.00

25. Unimatic Modello Due U2S-T-MP In Titanium (U2S-T-MP)

A slim, lightweight titanium field watch with 300m water resistance and iconic Unimatic styling? Say no more! A modern take on the field watch, Unimatic uses sandblasted grade II titanium to achieve a 45% lighter case, measuring 38.5mm in diameter, 11.9mm thick, and 47.5mm lug-to-lug. 

Powered by the proven workhorse Swiss movement, Sellita SW200-1, the blue dial coupled with white hands and markers (filled with BGW09 Super-Luminova) take the Modello Due to a new level of playfulness (and comfort) when compared with the relatively stark gray and black color models of past releases. 

Retail Price: $900.00

26. Timex Marlin Marlin Sub Dial Automatic 39mm (ref. TW2V61900)

This new entry to the Timex Marlin line adds a new splash of color that breathes a fresh sense of life into the piece. It updates the classic 1960s Marlin with pops of electric blue and a nice red highlight to compliment the sleek design. The stainless steel case is 39mm in diameter and features a curved cushion shape that sits comfortably on the wrist. 

The Japanese movement is shown through an exhibition case back with the iconic Marlin logo etched into the back. The dial and date feature stays true to many Marlin automatics with the 24-hour format sub-dial at the 9 o’clock. The dial’s color is a stark white with bold black numerals giving the watch an extremely simple but effective aesthetic.

The Timex Marlin Sub is $279.00

Conclusion

Automatic watches are the heart and soul of modern watchmaking. Continuing on the mechanical tradition of horology in the face of technological advances such as quartz and the smartwatches of today, purchasing an automatic watch is a conscious decision to keep that sense of watchmaking alive in a time when planned obsolescence and the digitization of everything surrounds us. 

No matter which automatic watch you choose, be proud of your decision and take comfort in knowing that your watch can be maintained, will live on, and can be passed down to future generations after you. So, which watch do you choose?

The Swatch Group has come a long way from the two nearly bankrupt companies that founded it in the ‘80s. Today it’s one of the world’s largest watchmaking conglomerates, with a diverse range of brands under its umbrella. 

From the luxury watch brands like Breguet and Omega to the affordable fashion watches of Swatch, the group has something for everyone. It is not too dissimilar to major automotive companies like Toyota, Ford, and Volkswagen, which have their budget, mid-level, and premium brands.

However, with so many brands, it can be challenging to know which ones stand out above the rest. In this article, we’ll explore some of the top Swatch Group brands and consider what makes them unique. We’ll delve into the history and heritage of each brand, their most popular models, and what sets them apart from their competitors.

We’ll start with the budget brand Swatch, followed by the iconic Omega brand, with its rich history in space exploration and sport. We’ll further consider brands like Blancpain, a brand known for its innovative complications and elegant designs. We’ll also explore Tissot and Hamilton’s more affordable yet stylish watches, among others.

About Swatch Group

Swatch Group is a Swiss conglomerate that is one of the world’s largest watchmaking companies. Founded in 1983, the company is headquartered in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, and owns a diverse range of watch brands that cater to various price points and styles. Today they have over 30,000 employees in 40 countries.

The company’s purpose is to provide quality watches to a global market. The Swatch Group is also committed to innovation and research, and development, with a focus on creating cutting-edge timepieces that push the boundaries of traditional watchmaking.

One of the most significant assets of the Swatch Group is ETA SA, one of the largest movement manufacturers in the world. ETA produces high-quality movements for many of the group’s brands and other watchmakers worldwide. With over 8,000 employees, ETA is a critical component of the Swiss watchmaking industry, and its movements are renowned for their precision and reliability.

History of the Swatch Group

The Swatch Group’s rich and fascinating history began in the early 1980s. In 1983, the Swiss watch industry was facing a crisis due to the influx of inexpensive quartz watches from Japan, which put traditional Swiss watchmakers out of business.

Nicolas G. Hayek, a Swiss engineer and businessman saw an opportunity to revive the industry by creating a new type of watch that would be affordable, stylish, and made with high-quality Swiss craftsmanship. Hayek founded Swatch Group in 1983, and the company’s first product was the Swatch watch, a colorful, plastic timepiece that was both affordable and fashionable.

The Swatch watch became an instant sensation and helped to revitalize the Swiss watch industry. In the following years, Swatch Group continued to innovate and acquire other watch brands, including Omega in 1985 and Blancpain in 1992.

In 1998, Swatch Group acquired Breguet, one of the oldest and most prestigious watch brands in the world. Breguet was founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, and it has a rich history of innovation and elegance.

The brand’s watches are highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts alike. Another notable acquisition by Swatch Group was Tissot, joining the group in 1983. Tissot is known for its high-quality watches at affordable prices, making it a popular choice for both casual and serious watch enthusiasts.

Hamilton is another brand that joined Swatch Group in 1974. Hamilton was founded in the United States in 1892 and had a long history of producing high-quality watches for pilots, soldiers, and adventurers. Today, Hamilton continues to create stylish and durable watches that are popular among watch enthusiasts and adventurers alike.

The history of the Swatch Group is one of innovation, craftsmanship, and a commitment to revitalizing the Swiss watch industry. The group’s diverse range of brands and its focus on quality and affordability have made it a leader in the watchmaking world. 

Best Brands of Swatch Group

Let’s delve into the history, features, and popular models of each brand.

1. Swatch

The Swatch brand is one of the most well-known and recognizable watch brands in the world. Founded in 1983 by Nicolas G. Hayek as part of the Swatch Group, the brand’s name is a combination of “second” and “watch,” reflecting its focus on creating affordable yet high-quality watches.

One of the brand’s most significant achievements was its role in reviving the Swiss watch industry in the 1980s, which had been struggling due to the rise of Japanese quartz watches. The Swatch watch, which was colorful, affordable, and made with Swiss craftsmanship, became an instant success and helped to restore confidence in the industry.

Over the years, Swatch has created many iconic collections, including the Originals, which featured bold, colorful designs, and the Skin collection, known for its ultra-thin and lightweight watches. The brand has also collaborated with numerous artists and designers, resulting in unique and creative collections such as the Swatch X You and the Swatch Art Special series.

Today, Swatch continues to offer a wide range of watches, from classic designs to playful and quirky styles. Its commitment to affordability and quality has made it a popular choice for casual wear and a collectible item for watch enthusiasts. With its unique designs and rich history, the Swatch brand remains an important part of the watchmaking world.

2. Omega

Omega is a luxury watch brand that has been at the forefront of the watchmaking industry for over 170 years. Founded in Switzerland in 1848, Omega has a rich history of innovation, precision, and durability. The brand’s watches have been used in many important events, including space exploration and the Olympics.

One of the brand’s most notable achievements was its involvement in the space race of the 1960s. Omega was chosen by NASA as the official watch for its astronauts, and the Omega Speedmaster became the first watch to be worn on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission in 1969.

Throughout its history, Omega has released many iconic collections, including the Seamaster, first introduced in 1948 and a symbol of the brand’s commitment to water-resistant watches. The Constellation collection, first released in 1952, is known for its refined elegance and timeless design.

In recent years, Omega has also introduced innovative new collections, such as the Planet Ocean, which features watches with advanced dive features, and the Globemaster, which boasts a unique design and a high level of accuracy.

Overall, Omega’s commitment to quality, precision, and innovation has made it one of the most respected and sought-after watch brands in the world. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in watchmaking history.

3. Longines

Longines is a luxury watch brand that was founded in Switzerland in 1832. The brand has a long and rich history of producing high-quality, elegant timepieces. Longines is known for its classic and timeless designs, which have made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts for over 180 years.

One of the brand’s most notable achievements was the development of the first chronograph movement in 1878, which many other watchmakers quickly adopted. Longines has also been involved in many important sporting events, including the Olympic Games and Formula One racing, and has been the official timekeeper for numerous events over the years.

Longines has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Conquest, first introduced in 1954 and a symbol of the brand’s commitment to precision and durability. The Master collection, first released in 2005, is known for its elegant and sophisticated design, while the HydroConquest collection, first introduced in 2007, is a modern and sporty line of watches.

Overall, Longines is a brand known for its timeless design, precision, and durability. Its commitment to quality has made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts for over 180 years. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

4. Tissot

Tissot is a Swiss watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces for over 160 years. Founded in 1853, Tissot has a rich history of innovation and precision, making it one of the most respected brands in the watchmaking industry.

One of the brand’s most notable achievements was the production of the first mass-produced pocket watch with two time zones in 1853. Tissot was also the first watch brand to produce watches made of plastic, stone, and wood.

Tissot has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the T-Touch, first introduced in 1999 and one of the first touchscreen watches in the world. The T-Classic collection, first introduced in 1996, is known for its elegant and classic designs, while the T-Sport collection offers a range of sporty watches with advanced features.

In recent years, Tissot has continued to innovate, releasing new collections such as the T-Complication collection, which features watches with intricate complications, and the T-Lady collection, which offers a range of elegant watches for women.

Overall, Tissot’s commitment to quality, precision, and innovation has made it one of the world’s most respected and sought-after watch brands. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in luxury watchmaking.

5. Hamilton

Hamilton is a Swiss-American watch brand that has been producing high-quality timepieces for over 100 years. Founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, Hamilton has a rich history of producing watches for aviation, military, and cinema.

During World War II, Hamilton became the primary supplier of timepieces for the U.S. military, producing watches that pilots and navigators used. In the 1950s, Hamilton began to produce watches for Hollywood films, which further cemented its reputation as a brand associated with aviation and adventure.

Hamilton has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Khaki Field collection, which offers a range of durable and functional watches inspired by military timepieces. The Ventura collection, first introduced in 1957, featured a unique triangular case and was famously worn by Elvis Presley in the film “Blue Hawaii.”

In recent years, Hamilton has continued to innovate, releasing new collections such as the Intra-Matic collection, which offers a range of vintage-inspired watches with a modern twist, and the Jazzmaster collection, which features elegant and sophisticated timepieces.

Overall, Hamilton’s commitment to quality, innovation, and adventure has made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts for over a century. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

6. Breguet

Breguet is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris in 1775. Breguet’s legacy as a watchmaker has been upheld by the company for over two centuries, and it is known for producing technologically advanced and aesthetically beautiful timepieces.

Abraham-Louis Breguet is credited with inventing many horological complications still used in watches today, including the tourbillon, the gong spring, and the Breguet overcoil. Breguet watches were favored by European royalty and aristocrats, and the brand’s list of notable clients includes Napoleon Bonaparte, Marie Antoinette, and Queen Victoria.

Breguet has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Classique collection, which offers a range of elegant and traditional timepieces, and the Marine collection, which features watches inspired by the brand’s connections to the maritime world. The Reine de Naples collection, first introduced in 2002, pays tribute to the world’s first wristwatch, commissioned by Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, in 1810.

Overall, Breguet’s commitment to innovation and elegance has made it one of the most respected and sought-after watch brands in the world. It’s historic achievements and iconic collections have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

7. Blancpain

Blancpain is a Swiss luxury watch brand founded in 1735 by Jehan-Jacques Blancpain. It is known for its expertise in mechanical watchmaking, including developing the world’s smallest movement and creating the first automatic wristwatch.

Blancpain has released many iconic collections throughout its history, including the Fifty Fathoms collection developed in 1953 for the French Navy’s elite diving unit. The Villeret collection, named after the village where Blancpain was founded, features classic and elegant timepieces that showcase the brand’s traditional craftsmanship.

Blancpain has also made significant contributions to the world of watchmaking, including the development of the first moon phase watch in 1983, which displayed the phases of the moon with a high degree of accuracy. The brand has also been at the forefront of the revival of traditional artisanal crafts such as enamel painting, engraving, and skeletonization.

Overall, Blancpain’s commitment to technical innovation and traditional craftsmanship has made it one of the most respected and sought-after watch brands in the world. Its iconic collections and historic achievements have cemented its place in the world of luxury watchmaking.

8. Gllashütte Original

Glashütte Original is a luxury watch brand based in the German town of Glashütte, known for its precision and high-quality craftsmanship. The brand traces its roots back to the 19th century when watchmaking began to flourish in the region.

It was founded in 1994 as part of the revitalization of the German watchmaking industry after the fall of the Berlin Wall. Glashütte Original’s watchmaking expertise is based on the long-standing tradition of precision engineering and craftsmanship in Glashütte.

The brand is known for its high-quality mechanical movements, which are developed and manufactured in-house. One of Glashütte Original’s most iconic collections is the Senator line, which includes both simple and complicated timepieces.

The Pano collection features watches with asymmetrical dials, and the Vintage collection pays homage to the brand’s heritage with classic designs and details. In recent years, Glashütte Original has also established itself as a leader in the development of innovative technologies, including a silicon balance spring and a new, high-performance escapement system.

Overall, Glashütte Original’s commitment to quality and innovation has made it a respected and sought-after watch brand among collectors and enthusiasts alike.

9. Harry Winston

Harry Winston is a luxury watch and jewelry brand named after its founder, who was known as the “King of Diamonds.” Established in 1932 in New York City, Harry Winston quickly gained a reputation for its exquisite and unique diamond designs.

The brand entered the world of watchmaking in the 1980s and has since become known for its high-end, complex timepieces. Harry Winston’s watch collections are crafted with the same level of precision and attention to detail as its jewelry.

One of Harry Winston’s most iconic collections is the Ocean line, which includes sporty and dressy timepieces. The Midnight collection features elegant dress watches with intricate complications, while the Histoire de Tourbillon line showcases the brand’s expertise in creating complex movements.

In recent years, Harry Winston has also focused on creating timepieces with innovative materials, such as Zalium, a zirconium-based alloy used in some of its sportier models. Overall, Harry Winston’s dedication to both craftsmanship and design has made it a sought-after brand among collectors and those seeking unique, high-end watches.

10. Jaquet Droz

Jaquet Droz is a luxury watch brand known for its artistic, intricate timepieces. The brand was founded by Pierre Jaquet-Droz in 1738 in Switzerland and quickly gained a reputation for its exceptional craftsmanship and innovative designs.

One of Jaquet Droz’s most notable achievements was the creation of the automaton, a mechanical device that simulates human or animal movements. The brand’s founder was particularly famous for his automata, designed to perform complex movements and even write messages.

Jaquet Droz’s watch collections often incorporate elements of this automaton heritage, such as intricate and detailed dials with unique animations. The brand’s iconic collections include the Grande Seconde, which features a large subdial for the seconds hand, and the Lady 8, which incorporates a figure-eight shape into the design.

Jaquet Droz also offers timepieces with complex complications, such as perpetual calendars and minute repeaters, as well as unique materials like ivory and enamel. Overall, Jaquet Droz’s dedication to craftsmanship and creativity has made it a respected and sought-after brand in the world of luxury watches.

11. Mido

Mido is a Swiss watch brand known for its combination of classic and contemporary designs. Founded in 1918 by Georges Schaeren, Mido has been producing timepieces for over a century, with a focus on high-quality craftsmanship and functionality.

Mido’s watch collections often feature sleek, minimalist designs with simple dials and clean lines. The brand’s iconic collections include the Baroncelli, inspired by Italian neoclassical architecture, and the Commander, a vintage-inspired collection that pays homage to Mido’s past while incorporating modern technology.

In recent years, Mido has also developed timepieces with features such as chronographs and GMT functions, further expanding its range of offerings. Overall, Mido’s dedication to both style and functionality has made it a respected and reliable brand in the world of watches.

12. Rado

Rado is a Swiss luxury watchmaker founded in 1917. The brand is known for its innovative use of materials, including ceramic, which has become one of its signature materials. In 1962, Rado introduced the world’s first scratch-resistant watch, the DiaStar, made from hard metal and sapphire crystal.

The brand has since continued to push boundaries in terms of materials and technology, earning a reputation for being one of the most innovative watch brands in the industry. One of Rado’s most iconic collections is the Ceramica, which features watches made entirely from high-tech ceramic.

Another notable collection is the True Thinline, which is ultra-thin and lightweight, thanks to its use of high-tech ceramic. In recent years, Rado has also introduced the Captain Cook collection, which pays tribute to a vintage Rado diving watch from the 1960s. 

This collection has been updated with modern materials and technology while retaining the classic design elements that made the original such a hit. Overall, Rado’s commitment to innovation and high-quality materials has made it a favorite among watch enthusiasts and collectors.

13. Certina

Certina is a Swiss watch brand that has been producing timepieces for over 130 years. Established in 1888, Certina quickly gained a reputation for its high-quality watches with exceptional accuracy and durability. Over the years, Certina has continued to innovate, making a name for itself as a brand that produces robust and reliable watches for sport and adventure enthusiasts.

One of Certina’s most notable achievements is its incorporation of the DS (Double Security) concept into its watches in the 1960s. This innovative design involved the use of various shock-absorbing materials and construction techniques to enhance the durability and water resistance of the watches.

Certina has several iconic collections that have contributed to the brand’s reputation for producing high-quality watches. The DS Action collection is a series of watches designed for diving and other water-based activities. 

In contrast, the DS Podium collection offers timepieces with a sporty and elegant design suitable for everyday wear. The Heritage collection is also a popular series featuring vintage-inspired designs that pay homage to the brand’s history.

14. Union Glashütte

Union Glashütte is a Swiss-German luxury watch brand known for its elegant designs and precise timekeeping. Founded in 1893 in the town of Glashütte, Germany, Union Glashütte has been a part of the Swatch Group since 1983.

The brand prides itself on its technical expertise and attention to detail, as well as its commitment to creating beautiful and functional timepieces. Over the years, Union Glashütte has released several iconic collections, including the Belisar, the Noramis, and the Viro Date.

These collections feature a range of styles, from classic dress watches to sporty chronographs, and are known for their high-quality materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and excellent performance. Union Glashütte is also known for its use of in-house movements, designed and manufactured in the brand’s facilities in Switzerland and Germany.

In recent years, Union Glashütte has continued to innovate and push the boundaries of watchmaking while staying true to its heritage and tradition of excellence. With its combination of style, precision, and technical expertise, Union Glashütte is a brand that appeals to watch enthusiasts and collectors alike.

15. Léon Hatot

Léon Hatot is a Swiss watch brand that was founded in 1924 by Léon Hatot, who was a famous jeweler, watchmaker, and inventor. The brand’s philosophy is to blend technology and design to create watches that embody elegance and precision.

The brand’s early focus was on producing high-quality pocket watches, but it quickly expanded into wristwatches. Over the years, the brand has won numerous awards for its exceptional designs and technological innovations.

Léon Hatot has had several iconic collections throughout the years, including the La Déesse collection, which was inspired by the famous French sculpture “Winged Victory of Samothrace.” Another iconic collection is the Nanette collection, which was designed for women and featured elegant and delicate timepieces. Léon Hatot’s watches are highly sought after by collectors and are known for their exquisite craftsmanship and timeless design.

Parting Thoughts

The Swatch Group encompasses a wide variety of watch brands with distinct styles and histories. From budget brands like Swatch to the luxury timepieces of Breguet and Blancpain and the iconic Omega, there’s a watch for every taste, budget, and need. If one of these Swatch Group brands has tickled your fancy, consider contacting the watch experts at Exquisite Timepieces for help researching and purchasing your next timepiece. 

Watches can come in a wonderful kaleidoscope of different colors. Picture this: an endless sea of magnificent blues, intense reds, vibrant greens, brilliant yellows, and more. However, for those interested in stepping away from these colors and choosing a warmer, earthy hue, brown is the name of the game. 

Brown is the color of chocolate and coffee, a match truly made in heaven. Imagine the enticing smell of freshly baked, gooey chocolate chip cookies from the oven with a steaming cup of espresso. Dream about fluffy cinnamon buns, or experience the rugged, earthy smells of the wooded forest. 

Brown watches are not really the first thing that comes to mind when picking out another watch to add to the collection. You can never go wrong with a classic black or blue dial. However, brown watches are on the rise, and it’s becoming increasingly common to see brands offering their pieces with sun-kissed brown dials. Pour yourself a cup of your favorite hot chocolate as we learn more about brown dial watches and the joy they can bring.

About Brown Dial Watches

The history of brown dial watches starts way back with vintage sports watches. Think of beloved brands like Rolex and Omega. As the years passed and watches were exposed to sunlight, the dials started discoloring. The chemical reaction between the sunlight and dial eventually resulted in what we call a “tropical dial.”

Presumably named for the tropics, where sunlight is abundant, these chocolate-colored dials are now highly prized by enthusiasts and collectors alike. The attractive patina on the watch greatly increases its value and adds a sprinkle of uniqueness. 

Many watches nowadays will try to evoke memories of these charming timepieces with carefully painted dials and vintage-inspired looks. Indeed, brown dials are becoming more and more desirable, as we will see with the luxurious list of offerings that we will see below! 

Should You Buy a Brown Dial Watch?

Brown dial watches will always have a special place in the collection, so the answer is yes, most definitely! Brown is a great contrast to the usual black and blues in the watch box. This color will be a surefire match for anyone looking to add a bit of excitement to their watch rotation. 

Brown is subtle enough to match almost any outfit and bold enough to generate some interest. Whether in a formal office setting or taking a dip by the pool, brown dials just work. Of course, brown is at home when the world is transitioning into autumn.

Brown just seems to fit in when everyone is scrambling to find the perfect Halloween costume, sipping on pumpkin spice lattes, and watching the leaves change color. This versatile color can accompany you in any situation. Luckily, we’ve assembled a sublime list to help you choose your next brown dial watch.

The Best Brown Dial Watches

Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B146)

Vacheron Constantin is one of the most premium watchmakers on the planet. Their very name drips with grace and exclusivity. Being able to hold and handle one of these astounding timepieces is a privilege and experience. Vacheron Constantin brought the Overseas collection back in 2016, and every year they have added more and more amazing watches to it.

The Overseas models are designed to be the perfect daily companion. One of the most convenient features of this watch is the interchangeable bracelet and strap system. This innovation makes it extremely easy to customize the look and feel of the watch. The layout is immaculate and features an ever-useful date window at the 3 o’clock position.

Every feature of this watch is finished with extreme attention to detail. The hour markers shine like mirrors and are razor cut to perfection. Turning over the Overseas immediately reveals the golden rotor, with sharp points radiating from the middle like sun rays. Behind the rotor is the in-house caliber 5100, beating away at 28,800vph and offering 60 hours of power reserve. 

Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R

First came Vacheron Constantin, and now comes Patek Philippe. Together, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin form the “Big Three” or “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking. These heavyweights represent the absolute best that watchmaking has to offer. They are the quintessential watchmakers that every brand should look to for inspiration.

This brown Aquanaut is just one of the many luxurious timepieces that come from these brands. The unique rounded octagon shape caused a huge stir in the watch world when it was released, and it still leaves current admirers breathless. Golden, applied hour markers dot the edge of the watch, and a mesmerizing sweeping seconds hand makes its rotation around the watch.

The Aquanaut series bracelet can be swapped for numerous attractive options as well. Underneath the dial exposes the self-winding caliber 26‑330 S C, a true marvel in design and function. 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470ST.OO.A820CR.01)

The last of the “Big Three,” Audemars Piguet, lives up to its name with this offering from the popular Royal Oak collection. The 1972 release of the first watches in this collection changed how modern watches would be designed. They were sleek, exciting, and an absolute sensation. This Royal Oak has many of the features that buyers have come to expect: incredible quality, luxury status, and otherworldly levels of detail. 

This is undoubtedly a large 42mm watch with large pushers and a unique case shape. The signature octagonal bezel is lined with perfectly placed screws, creating a very pleasing continuity. This particular model comes on a gorgeous alligator strap that matches the deep brown of the dial.

Audemars Piguet describes the dial as “Mega Tapisserie,” with a waffle pattern that’s as delicious as it looks. Underneath this sweet treat is the caliber 3126/3840 self-winding movement, with 50 hours of power reserve. 

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (ref. 215.62.40.20.13.001)

The first of 3 Omega watches on this list is the 39.55mm Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean in a velvety hazel color. The Planet Ocean series represents Omega’s unique history with ocean-inspired watches. 

Every element of this watch blends together in a wonderful harmony. The hazel dial is a backdrop for the golden hands and white hour markers. The equally dark bezel contrasts with the gold lettering and pushers. Even the ceramic case is brown. This watch is simply a masterclass in pleasing design elements. 

Omega’s famed co-axial escapement makes its appearance in this watch as well. With this innovation, mechanical accuracy is increased even further. The Omega caliber 8800 automatic movement powers this chocolate delight. Resistant to magnetism, finished expertly, and a certified chronometer; this movement can do it all. 

Grand Seiko SBGR311

Grand Seiko is the Japanese answer to the luxury Swiss watchmaking industry. Since its inception, Grand Seiko has made revolutionary strides in watchmaking, such as with the invention of the spring drive movement. Known for absolutely breathtaking designs, Grand Seiko has created one of its most amazing pieces yet with the SBGR311. 

What immediately catches the eye is the swirling explosion of shapes on the dial. Every single shape is detailed with small lettering inside. This whirlpool of chocolate is simply hypnotic to look at. I could get lost in the dial and feel an inexplicable urge to satisfy my sweet tooth. 

Inside this delicious morsel is the caliber 9S65 automatic movement, which is lightweight and extremely accurate. Zaratsu polishing makes every aspect of this watch shine with a mirror finish. A sapphire caseback shows both the movement and the Grand Seiko lion logo, roaring with life. This watch is simply divine.

Rolex Day-Date 40 Chocolate Dial (ref. 228235)

To many people, Rolex will always be the ultimate luxury brand. Rolex is always in huge demand, and any new release by them is immediately snatched up by the hungry masses. This attractive colorway of the famous Day-Date model instantly demands attention with its absolutely beautiful and warm hues. 

The exclusive Rolex Everose case glows in the light and perfectly contrasts the rich dial. The fluted bezel is a signature Rolex detail, as is the cyclops magnifier at the 3 o’clock position. At 40mm, this watch is larger than more traditional Day-Date models, but nearly any wrist can accommodate this piece. And with the extraordinary “President” bracelet wrapped around the wrist, any lucky wearer will find themselves with a truly magnificent watch. 

Glashütte Original Sixties Brown (ref. 39-52-10-02-01)

One look at this German watch makes you want to steal another look. You’ll get lost in the unique and elaborate imprinted dial and want more. Glashütte Original will be able to satisfy your desire for more with a watch that pays tribute to the 1960s. The soft, rounded case is extremely comfortable to wear. The 39mm case is reserved and appropriate for any wrist.

Inside the polished steel case is the caliber 39-52. The numbers on the dial look like carefully etched Arabic numerals, something not seen in other watches. This watch is strictly time-only, with no other complication in sight. The symmetry and visual appeal are unmatched with Glashütte Original’s stunning timepiece. 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date Desert Edition (ref. 5052 1146 E52A)

Blancpain is the oldest watch brand that still exists to this day. Throughout the centuries, Blancpain has perfected the art of watchmaking and truly takes it to another level. The Fifty Fathoms line is Blancpain’s signature dive watch collection, started in the golden age of diving and marine exploration in the early 1950s. 

This limited edition model in the Fifty Fathoms line is fascinating and complicated. The desert colorway is light and attractive. The dial gleams in the light and sweeps away like sand in the wind. A khaki-colored strap matches the sandy dial. A 43mm case houses the caliber 1315DD, with an enormous 120 power reserve. With so much power on the wrist, this watch is as hardy as the desert sun. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385

Zenith reaches its highest point with the Chronomaster Revival A385. This model breathes life into classic models of Zenith’s past. As a modern interpretation of the original A385 from 1969, this revival has much to live up to. With numerous modern upgrades, like the ladder-style bracelet and refined movement, this watch takes the old and catapults it into the future.

Zenith is known for making avant-garde movements and housed inside the chunky 37mm tonneau-shaped case is the legendary El Primero automatic movement. Zenith prominently displays the movement’s specifications on its website, and for good reason. This movement is revered in the watchmaking industry for its gorgeous finishing, unrivaled accuracy, and innovative design. The movement works at 36,000vph and offers a 50-hour power reserve. 

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Brown Dial (ref. 311.32.42.30.13.001)

The Moonwatch is one of the most beloved in the watch industry. Its story has been told countless times and will forever be tied to Omega’s legendary association with space and the galaxy. An Omega Speedmaster can truly do it all and is a serious contender for a one-watch-only collection. 

The famous Speedmaster DNA that everyone is familiar with is in this brown dial version. The symmetrical dial, lume pips at 12 o’clock, tachymeter scale, and large pushers are all here. A matching brown leather strap comes with this watch, but Speedmasters are well-known for being able to look good on almost anything.

At 42mm, the watch is large but sits very comfortably on the wrist thanks to the watch’s soft contours. Like other iconic Speedmasters, the famous Omega caliber 1863 powers this watch. It is visible behind the transparent sapphire caseback. 

Oris Aquis Date Brown Dial (ref. 01 733 7730 4152-07 5 24 12EB)

As one of the few privately owned watch companies, Oris maintains a unique position in the market. Instead of answering to a larger authority regarding their designs and decision-making, they answer solely to themselves. The Aquis is a series of no-nonsense dive watches that offer impeccable performance and brilliant design. 

This mono-brown variant of these serious divers is large, bold, and entirely functional. Generous lume, the large 43.5mm case size, and the long stick hour markers make viewing this watch under the water a breeze. The rotating dive bezel is crisp, satisfying, and locks into place. A gorgeous chocolate-colored strap matches the mono-brown dial. Finally, the Oris 733 automatic movement is found in this beauty and many other watches in Oris’s lineup. 

Longines Legend Diver (ref. L3.774.4.60.2)

Relive an era of legendary watchmaking with this heritage dive watch from the esteemed brand Longines. The extremely famous Longines logo, a winged hourglass, is stamped at the top of this Legend Diver. Any timepiece with the winged hourglass symbol is worthy of inclusion in the Longines lineup.

The Legend Diver is ruggedly handsome and retains the original super compressor design. This is evident by the two prominent pushers on the side of the case, which control the inner rotating bezel. This mechanism also increases the water resistance of this dive watch.

This is an exciting feature that sets this watch apart from others. This big, 42mm daring watch is powered by the Longines exclusive L888 automatic movement. A large 72-hour power reserve means this diving legend will be running for long periods. 

Seiko Presage SRPF43

I stick by the adage that every collection needs a Seiko. Seiko has such a huge variety of pieces in its collection that it’s hard to find something that someone won’t like. The Presage line from Seiko combines Japanese artistry and cutting-edge mechanical capabilities. This model is one of the many “Cocktail Time” watches, taking inspiration from various drinks in Japan. These affordable, classy dress watches are undoubtedly worth taking a closer look.

This dial is actually inspired by a specially roasted tea named Hojicha. Compared to other teas, this tea produces a light golden color when roasted. This is reflected on the dressy dial, which is a rich brown and yellow gradient. This 38.5mm watch is handsome enough to fit any casual or formal situation. On the caseback is an engraving with the serial number of this limited edition collection.

The entry-level Seiko 4R35 automatic movement powers the watch, generating 41 hours of power reserve when fully wound or “roasted.” Indeed, looking at the toasty brown dial, I can only think of wanting to take a sip! 

Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition (ref. 128669)

Montblanc has made quite a name for itself in recent years. The renowned pen company has taken serious steps to make it a contender in the often cutthroat luxury watch market. Montblanc’s integration with Minerva, a highly respected watch movement manufacturer, cemented Montblanc’s future as a brand that makes more than just pens.

This stunning perpetual calendar is one of the best examples of this new direction. This limited edition version of the Heritage Perpetual Calendar could easily be double its asking price. Perpetual calendars are the pinnacle of fine watchmaking, requiring immense care and careful attention to detail to assemble.

This heritage model echoes earlier Minerva model watches. This elegant, 40mm perpetual calendar features a gorgeous caramel-colored dial and displays an encyclopedia of knowledge on its many subdials. Housed inside the 18K pink gold case is the caliber MB 29.22, beating away at 28.800vph and offering a 48-hour power reserve.

This dedicated perpetual calendar module can be viewed through the sapphire caseback, treating the eyes with a beautifully applied Côtes de Genève pattern. The snow-capped Mont Blanc mountain is displayed proudly at the top of the watch, a sign of Montblanc’s dedication to quality. 

H. Moser & Cie Venturer Big Date (ref. 2100-0402)

Exclusivity is the name of the game for H. Moser & Cie. Produced in very limited quantities, each mechanical marvel from the workshops of H. Moser & Cie is lovingly handcrafted and painstakingly examined for quality. This Venturer model is a 50-piece limited edition production from a brand that already makes very few watches a year anyway, which gives away just how special this watch is. 

This timepiece is an appropriate 41.5mm in case size, and it seems even bigger with the watch’s design choices. The elegant H. Moser & Cie logo is spelled out in cursive at the top of the dial, but the most exciting elements of the watch are the big date window and the large cutout for the seconds at the 6 o’clock position. 

These huge features make the watch extremely bold to look at and highly legible. Flipping the piece on its back reveals a stunning manual-winding movement from H. Moser & Cie, with an enormous 7-day power reserve and small power reserve complication. 

Omega Constellation Brown Dial (ref. 123.10.38.21.10.001)

Of the many offerings in the vast Omega catalog, the Constellation series is among the most beautiful. The Constellation series gets its name from the gorgeous, deep engraving of an observatory on the caseback viewing the stars. This almost romantic imagery invokes a sense of wonder and discovery.

Indeed, this copper-brown Omega Constellation is a wonder to behold. The sharply finished hour markers and hands reflect like the stars in the night sky. At the 6 o’clock position is a silver star that provides a wonderful point of dial symmetry. 

The 38mm watch wears small due to its case shape and perfectly slips under any cuff. The craftsmanship is top-notch, and this dressy piece, in particular, is on an adjustable steel bracelet. Instead of the classic observatory engraving on the back, a sapphire crystal caseback shows off the Omega Co-Axial caliber 8500 in all of its glory. 

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4356-07 5 20 45)

The Divers Sixty-Five line is like taking a time machine back to the retro days of Beatlemania and bell-bottom jeans. This watch takes various elements of vintage styles from this era and blends them together like a smoothie. The burnt orange and brown dial is reminiscent of a swirling cup of coffee.

Attractive round hour markers dot the outer edges of the dial. The 40mm dial is larger than you might find in a vintage diver, but this modern fit looks great on any wrist. The Divers Sixty-Five is slim thanks to its wonderful tapering and doesn’t sit tall on the wrist.

At the heart of this vintage blend is the Oris 733 movement, based on the workhorse Sellita SW200-1. Finally, with 100 meters of water resistance, this watch will be more than capable of surviving nearly any aquatic situation.  

Breitling Transocean Chronograph 38 (ref. U4131012/Q600-725P) 

Breitling is known for being big and bold, but this Transocean Chronograph shows that Breitling can tap into its reserved side and offer something truly special. The Transocean series was recently revived by Breitling and is now one of their premier watch lines.

The name takes its inspiration from the golden days of aviation when advancements in aviation technology made flying across the ocean possible. It’s easy to see the pilot influences on this watch. The watch is very functional, with a chronograph, tachymeter, and a host of other features that appeal to the pilot in all of us.

The 38mm case size seems conservative for Breitling’s standards, but this makes it that much easier to wear on the wrist. It sits tall and demands presence. The pleasing golden bezel contrasts the dark brown dial and leather strap. The Transocean is back and better than ever, it seems.

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto (ref. H38735501)

Hamilton, the Swiss brand that combines masculine, All-American designs with precision Swiss engineering, offers this mesmerizing timepiece from their American Classic collection. The smoky brown dial of this vintage-inspired watch brings to mind an old-world type of cool. The radiant dial smoothly transitions to a light brown in the center.

Simple stick hour markers and hands clearly display the time. The date complication has its own golden window at the 6 o’clock position, giving some visual interest to the piece. Despite the vintage inspirations, this is definitely a modern timepiece. The sizable 42mm case size makes it stand out on the wrist. The lug width is also quite wide, at 22mm.

The movement is also created to modern standards. The powerful ETA 2892-A2 beats away inside the case and offers a respectable 42 hours of power reserve. Hamilton’s history is as rich as the smoky chocolate dial on this watch’s blend of vintage and modern. 

Farer Eldridge Chronograph

Among the titans in watchmaking on this list, like Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe, it would be hard for a newer brand like Farer to stand out. Founded in 2015, Farer is the newest watch brand on the list. This means they are up against stiff competition with much richer and more celebrated stories than them.

However, Farer’s Eldridge Chronograph can certainly appeal to many people with its bold flashes of color and symmetrical design. Farer forgoes many traditional watchmaking designs and creates its own unique pieces. Browsing their catalog reveals unique tropical colors, chunky hour markers, fun designs, and more.

This 39mm Eldridge Chronograph combines chocolate brown and turquoise blue. The blue chronograph hand is a stark contrast to the brown dial. Inside the watch is the reliable ETA 2894-2 movement, a sign of quality and care. 

One of the most delightful features of this design is the expertly placed date window. Rather than sacrifice symmetry by setting the date window at somewhere like the 3 o’clock position, it is at the 6 o’clock position instead. This small but appreciated change is just one of many details on this fine watch. 

Conclusion

Brown dial watches are certainly an interesting piece to add to the collection. The roasted coffee color is warm and inviting. They add an element of interest to a collection and will stand out on any wrist. Even the most exclusive brands are starting to see why brown is the color that is trending at the moment. Admire the wonderful pieces we have assembled for you today, and grab a bite of chocolate as well! 

 

As I sit here in my home office wearing my Datejust 41 (ref. #126300), with the white dial, of course, I’m smiling to myself. You see, ever since I got into watches, I’ve always been drawn to the ones with white dials like my dog is to socks. While I haven’t quite pinpointed what it is about them, I know they look great, whether on my wrist or someone else’s. 

Walk around your local downtown, grocery store, or mall, and us watch enthusiasts can spot a white dial watch from a mile away. Finding the right one can be a daunting task as there are endless options but don’t worry; we’ll discuss a few that I believe to be great.  

What’s a White Dial Watch?

You probably just read the header to this section and thought, “AJ – a white dial watch is simply a watch with a white dial,” to which I would respond, “yes, but there’s more!” The dial (or face as it’s sometimes referred to) color can be very important for how the watch presents on the wrist, which I’ll touch on in a bit.

While the first introduction of these watches is open to debate, we can safely say that they can be traced back to at least the 1940s. Historically speaking, you’ll find white dials popular among dress watches, but that isn’t to say you can’t find them on sports, dive, or other types of watches.

Over the years, watchmakers such as Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have introduced models in white that have become icons. Speaking of Rolex, the Daytona (ref. #6239) has become one of the most famous watches over the years. Not too difficult, I believe, when the legendary actor and race car driver Paul Newman wore it.

To Buy or Not to Buy a White Dial Watch?

Yes, you should. Ok, I think we can move on now. I can’t make choices for you, but I’ll try to explain my fascination with these watches. You should know that I’m not a person who likes attention, but I like to zig while others zag.

Amongst a sea of black, blue, and silver dial watches, white tends to stand out a bit. I know 3 seconds ago I said I don’t like attention, but there is a certain degree of flashiness a white dial offers while not going over the top.

They’re also incredibly legible, and it’s nice to be able to quickly and easily read the time on our watches, right? Before purchasing any timepiece, it’s important to put it on your wrist, especially if you’re considering a white dial watch. You see, watches with this dial color tend to present larger than they actually are.

An example is the Rolex Explorer II. The watch comes in black and white. If you try both on or look at pictures, you’ll see that the white dial looks considerably larger than the black one, even though they’re the same size. At 42mm in diameter, it should be noted that dial color matters, especially if your wrist leans on the smaller side. Let’s discuss some other greats, shall we?

20 White Dial Watches that are Outstanding

1. Citizen Tsuyosa (ref. #NJ0150-81A)

Citizen is a great brand, so it’s no surprise they’re included. The Japanese watchmaker offers an excellent everyday watch with an automatic movement, the caliber 8210, with approx. 40 hours of power reserve. The case is 41mm in diameter and only 11.7mm thick, which are great proportions for a lot of wrist sizes.

What I love most about it is the price point, which is very accessible at under $500. The watch is also well proportioned with a running seconds hand beating at 21,600 vph (vibrations per hour) and a cyclops date window. The only text on the dial is “Citizen” at the top & “Automatic” at the bottom. Minimal text for the win! The bracelet offers high-polish center links and brushed outer links.

I think this contrast in polishing is wonderful and adds a mix of dressy and sporty. The clasp is fully brushed, so while it will scratch, it won’t show them as much as a high-polish clasp would. Citizen decided to offer an exhibition-style case back, meaning the wearer can see the movement while the watch is off their wrist. A nice touch that I personally wish more brands would offer with their watches.

2. Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic (ref. #T1164071601100)

Tissot has a reputation for excellence, and I love what they’re doing lately. The Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic, which I will now refer to as “The Gent” for short, comes in a 42mm case diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 22mm lug width. Lug width may not be a big deal to everyone, but for some, 20mm or 22mm size means lots of options for strap changes.

Speaking of straps, this one has the option of either leather, steel, or fabric. The case is made with 316L steel, a highly scratch-resistant and great metal. It has 100 meters of water resistance, so if you elect the steel bracelet or other waterproof straps, this one can easily be taken in the pool or ocean. Not sure I would dive too deep with it, so be weary if you’re into that sort of activity.

I’m fearful of the ocean, so you won’t find me going below a few feet anyways. What really blows me away is the movement. Tissot has a patented “Nivachoron” balance spring, a titanium-based alloy that is more resistant to magnetic fields. The cherry on top is The Gent’s 72-hour power reserve (chef’s kiss).

3. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. #H69439411)

The hardest part of writing about watches is that I want every watch I write about. I know it’s a tough job, but someone’s gotta do it. I’m sure my fiance won’t mind if I just get one more, right? The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is no exception.

Wow, what a watch! 38mm matte finished case, durable military green NATO strap, automatic movement, 20mm lug width, and 80-hour power reserve. Do I really need to say more?! I have yet to touch on lume, and this watch has Super-LumiNova, which means it’ll be bright and long-lasting. 

If you’re unaware, lume is charged by the sun or other light sources and enables the wearer to wear the watch in low light or darkness because it offers a nice glow. Typically lume is applied on the hands and hour markers. A fun fact about the Hamilton Khaki is that it’s a recreation of the original 1960s version, and I think it does a great job of keeping that military-inspired look.

4. Victorinox Alliance (ref. #241871)

Somehow (don’t ask me how), Victorinox has pulled off a simple-looking watch that has a lot going on. That is if you allow yourself to look closer. The dial offers what they call three-dimensional, and it certainly gives that illusion with its stepped-down dial.

The company’s logo is at 12 o’clock, 9, and 3 are in Arabic numerals on the dial and a well-executed date window at 6 o’clock. That dial is mesmerizing with its grainy textured appearance. Again, we have a great size of 40mm and a lug width of 20mm, all held on with a black leather strap. I absolutely love the contrast between white dial watches and black leather straps.

The ticking happens with the ETA movement 2892, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. ETA movements, along with Sellita, are popular choices among big watch brands, extremely reliable, and easily serviceable. While the leather strap fancies this one up, the design of the dial brings it back to sporty, enabling this watch to be very versatile.

5. Seiko Presage (ref. #SARX055)

Only a matter of time before I mention this brand. Nicknamed the “Baby Grand Seiko Snowflake” due to its stunning textured dial, this Seiko is a real looker. First introduced to us in 2017, it offers a 40.8mm titanium case. You read that right—the first watch on the list to offer this type of metal.

If you’ve never experienced a titanium watch, they’re worth trying on and can be pretty surprising if you’re not expecting their lightness. Inside is the reliable 6R15 automatic movement with an accuracy rating of +25/-15 seconds per day.

Of course, it’s not the best timekeeping watch on the market, but it’s certainly fair given the sub $1,000 price point. What stands out most to me is the elegance of those sword-style hands and the splash of color we get with the blue seconds hand. It’s easy to get caught staring at this one. The watch leans more on the dressy side, but there’s no doubt it can be paired with a tee shirt and jeans.

6. Longines Presence (ref. #L4.921.4.12.2)

I typically wear my watches with anything and don’t particularly like putting them in a specific corner. That being said, it’s tough not to look at this watch and think, “wow, what a classy-looking timepiece. That would look nice in a fancy restaurant.” For me, what puts this watch in the category of a dress watch is the calf leather, crocodile-style black strap. It also comes in stainless steel at 38mm in diameter and only 8.3mm thick. If you’re keeping track at home, that’s quite thin for an automatic movement, which in this case is the caliber L888 (a Longines exclusive) conditioned to go 72 hours on a full wind.

It has some water resistance but just enough to get a few splashes on while washing your hands. The dial is clean, with the only text besides Longines being the word “Automatic” in all caps at the bottom. Longines offers excellent watches with a rich history. My grandfather owns a gold Longines watch from the 1960s, so the brand certainly has a special place in my heart.

7. Oris Divers Sixty Five “Social Club Edition” (ref. #01 733 7707 4051 OSC-MIL-Set)

Our first dive watch! And it’s not just any dive watch; it’s the Oris Divers Sixty Five inspired by the iconic model from 1965. While there are many variations from the Swiss brand, this one is the “Social Club Edition” and is unique because a portion of the purchase goes back towards your community.

Now, I’ve always been a sucker for black/white watch combos, and this one is no exception. There’s just something about that white dial with the circular indices and the black bezel. It just pops so well. Divers can get chunky, but luckily, this one is only 40mm in diameter and relatively thin.

It’s got everything you’d want in a watch under $3,000: screw-down crown, automatic movement (Sellita SW 200-1), 100 meters of water resistance, excellent brand, and comes with a black leather strap. Just be sure to swap it for something that will handle water a bit better before jumping into the pool. What I love most about this beauty is the ability to dress it up or down, as it works in all situations.

8. Tudor 1926 (ref. #M91550-0005)

When I first look at this watch, a couple of thoughts immediately come to mind. First, the blue against the white dial is perfect. It had the danger of being too striking, but Tudor did a fantastic job of toning it down with that amazing textured dial.

And second? It’s dressy in nature when you consider the 7-row steel bracelet, but then it has that mix of arrow/numeral indices and “Self-winding” text that appears to smile up at the wearer. The watch is going to fit a lot of wrists with a steel case of 39mm. It’s a time and date watch powered by the caliber T601 movement, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.

This piece also comes in a variety of sizes ranging from 28mm to 41mm and can be paired with various straps from Tudor. If you didn’t know, Tudor is a sister company to Rolex. They make many incredible watches, and what I love is that you get that Rolex quality but at a more affordable price. By the way, the watch is called 1926 because that’s the year Tudor was founded by Hans Wilsdorf.

9. Nomos Tangente (ref. #101)

Can we take a quick moment to thank Nomos for that easy-to-remember and, most importantly, short reference number? Other companies can learn from Nomos’ ways (looking at you, Omega). The first German watch to be discussed today, the Tangente’s unique design makes this a winner to me.

Dimensions are great: 35mm case diameter, 6.2mm thick, and only 45mm lug-to-lug. A quick note: the lug-to-lug measurement is important when discussing the wearability of a watch because a large size here can make the timepiece hang off either side of your wrist. In other words, it’s the length from the bottom of the lug to the top. 

It’s powered by the caliber “alpha manual,” an in-house movement that is manual wind. This means that the wearer will need to wind the watch once every two days, according to Nomos. It has a small running seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position and the only text being “Nomos Glashutte” at 12 o’clock. It stays on the wrist with the help of a Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black strap. Bravo Nomos, and please keep them coming.

10. Cartier Tank Must Watch Large (ref. #WSTA0041)

I must confess something. I’ve been into watches for years, but until recently, I didn’t pay much attention to Cartier as a watch brand. That’s a mistake I’ll have to live with forever, but luckily, I’m on board now. The Cartier Tank Must Watch Large is beautiful, coming in steel with a case dimension of 33.7mm by 25.5mm and 6.6mm thick.

This model contains a high-autonomy quartz movement, although there are other options. The other quartz movement is the “small” version and has dimensions of 29.5mm by 22mm and 6.6mm thick. Lastly, there is an automatic option called the extra-large model. It has a case size of 41mm by 31mm and a thickness of 8.4mm, all while being the only option with a date function.

The Tank Must watch comes on an interchangeable black-grained calfskin strap. When I look at the watch, my eyes immediately fixate on those blue hands and how they perfectly align with the second, minute, and hour markers. These fine details in watchmaking make me absolutely adore this wonderful work of art.

11. Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic (ref. #10518)

As a watch geek, I can get caught up in the nerdy technical specifications of a watch in an instant. So when I see that this watch, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic, is COSC certified, it grabs my attention. A COSC certification is only for Swiss-made watches, and means that the watch has been tested and passed a certain level of accuracy and precision. In other words, it’s going to keep great time.

Baume & Mercier has been making incredible timepieces for a while now, since 1830, to be exact. Not only does the Clifton Baumatic look awesome, with its perfectly proportioned dial, but it has 5 days of power reserve!

The movement beats at 28,800 vph and is protected by a 40mm steel case at only 11.3mm thick. It also comes on a black alligator strap and has an exhibition caseback, allowing the movement to be visible. The minute/second numbers on the edge of the dial make it just a smidge casual and easier to wear with almost anything.

12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. #220.10.41.21.02.001)

Look, as a collector, there is no such thing as a one-and-done watch. My wallet doesn’t love me for saying that. That being said, if there was such a timepiece, this is the watch you’re looking for (to quote the great Obi-Wan Kenobi). The Aqua Terra lineup from Omega is superb, and this particular model comes with a stunning white dial. The lovely, horizontal lines across it sort of resemble wood planks across a wall.

The arrow indices pop, and the color contrast between the hands and the dial makes seeing the time extremely easy. We also get a few hints of color, which I love, with orange splashes on the seconds hand, every 15-minute mark along the outside, and the iconic “Seamaster” text. It comes in a 41mm diameter steel case that’s 13.2mm thick and has a water resistance of 150 meters.

The movement is a co-axial, anti-magnetic one from Omega, the caliber 8900, and has 60 hours of power reserve and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. If that weren’t enough for you, it’s also METAS certified as a Master Chronometer, meaning it has undergone extensive testing. It’s the highest certification a Swiss watch can achieve, so yeah, it’s a fantastic watch.

13. Grand Seiko SBGA289

Finding a watchmaker who makes a better dial than Grand Seiko would be difficult. Their finishing ain’t half bad, either. The SBGA289 has a 39mm case size, is 12.5mm thick, and comes in white gold. It’s simply breathtaking when you see it.

The dial is textured, with a sword-style handset and a blue seconds hand. The movement is the 9R15, a spring dive with a power reserve of up to 72 hours and an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per month. That’s right, per month! I nerd out with mechanical movements, but when you watch a spring drive tick, it’s mesmerizing how it sweeps across the dial.

The dial also includes a power reserve indicator, so you never have to wonder how much power your watch has left. It comes on a black crocodile strap, which is a color combination I never tire of. It’s been stated by many that no one in the watch industry works harder for your money than Grand Seiko, and I can’t help but agree with that statement.

14. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. #5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain markets this watch, which is a part of a larger collection, as the “first modern diver’s watch.” In recent years, vintage-inspired dive watches have largely taken over watch enthusiasts’ Instagram feeds, but with a quick look at this Blancpain, one can spot a fresh look immediately.

The case size is a bit larger than the previous pieces we’ve encountered here. A 45mm steel case diameter at a thickness of 15.4mm is no small watch, but everything is wonderfully proportioned. The unidirectional rotating bezel is a glossy white with a silver 60-minute indicator. The quite impressive power reserve of 120 hours is due to Blancpain’s caliber 1315 movement.

With a water resistance of 300 meters, this watch should be suitable for recreational divers, and it even comes with a fabric strap. This, to me, is one of those watches that would look awesome on various colored straps to break up the tone of it with a splash of color. Do that, and you got yourself one heck of a watch.

15. Breguet Classique 7147 (ref. #7147BB/29/9WU)

Details, details, details! The 40mm 18K white gold case, sapphire crystal, “Grand Feu” enamel dial, Arabic Breguet numerals, blued steel hands, and that offset small seconds hand tucked in nicely between the 5 and 6. This watch is pure class and is wrapped up beautifully with a black leather strap.

The piece is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 SD with a 45-hour power reserve. The small details are, in my opinion, what set this watch apart from the rest.

The only text on the dial is “Breguet” in the iconic font, along with the words “Swiss Emaille Grand Feu” in small text that wraps around the bottom from the 8 to the 7. The minute indicators are quite pleasing to look at as well. Along with the 18k white gold version, this watch also comes in rose gold as another white dial option.

16. Omega Speedmaster White Side of The Moon (ref. #311.93.44.51.04.002)

If you’ve been even a little bit into watches, then you’ve likely heard of Omega. That means you’re probably aware of their most famous watch, the Speedmaster. This iconic lineup of watches has a wide array of options, but if you’re looking to go against the norm, the “White Side of the Moon” is a good place to start.

The case is 44.25mm in diameter and machined from a single ceramic block. Since it is made out of this material, it will be highly resistant to scratches. It features 50 meters of water resistance, so while I wouldn’t recommend swimming around, it certainly can get caught in the rain and be just fine.

The sapphire crystal has anti-reflective treatment on both sides, making it very easy to see the time even as the light reflects off it. Omega’s co-axial caliber 9300 powers this timepiece, and its automatic movement has 60 hours of power reserve. When it comes to iconic chronographs, one would be hard-pressed to beat out the Speedmaster.

17. A. Lange and Söhne Lange 1 (ref. #110.029)

Certain brands are known to many, even if you’re not much of a watch person. Other brands, such as A. Lange and Söhne, may not be as recognizable to non-watch folks but do not make any mistake about it: they pack quite a punch.

This watch, in particular, the Lange 1, immediately requires a double take upon first viewing. The case is 18k white gold and measures 38.5mm in diameter and 10mm thick. The ticking comes from the caliber L901.4, which includes the patented big date at 2 o’clock and an impressive 72-hour power reserve.

Since it’s a manual wind watch, the exhibition caseback allows us to see that incredibly finished movement without the rotor covering it up. I know I’ve stated my love for the white dial/black strap combo, but this one works so well with that dark brown alligator strap. This watch proves you don’t need dial symmetry to have an excellent timepiece.

18. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. #15210OR.OO.A099CR.01)

Tough to mention Audemars Piguet, or AP, without immediately thinking of the Royal Oak. How can I blame you? But AP makes other incredible watches, too, including this Code 11.59. The dial is “white lacquered” and surrounded by an 18K pink gold case. An interesting tidbit about this watch is the sapphire crystal.

It’s actually double-curved and gives off a unique perspective to the wearer in terms of depth as it moves around. The real estate taken up on the wrist is 41mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick. While there are other strap options, selling me on anything other than the hand-stitched brown alligator strap with the 18k pink gold pin buckle it comes on would be tough.

Finally, the caseback. You know, I have a love/hate relationship with beautiful exhibition casebacks. Obviously, I love looking at a well-finished movement, and well, it’s AP, so you know it’s going to be spectacular. What’s difficult is that it would always be on my wrist, which makes seeing the movement a challenge.

19. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. #5116G)

This is THE dress watch. All right, everyone, dust off your hands, and let’s go home. Ok, I may be slightly kidding, but this watch is it. The case is 36mm in 18k white gold and is manual wind (caliber 215 PS), time only. It features a double Hobnail bezel and comes on a black alligator strap. 

The Roman numeral style handset ties in so well with that small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. The exhibition caseback displays a beautiful-looking movement, which is finished to perfection. One would expect nothing less from one of the finest companies in the history of watchmaking. 

20. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (ref. #81180/000G-9117)

Remember when I said that the Patek Philippe Calatrava was THE dress watch like 5 seconds ago? This is the problem (beauty?) with watchmaking: there are so many amazing options out there. Honestly, I would feel like the luckiest watch collector in the world with either of these. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, this VC Patrimony comes in a white 18k gold 40mm case.  

The dial is simple, with only hour and minute markers sweeping across the “Vacheron Constantin Geneve” text. The strap is black alligator called “Mississippiensis.” The movement is manual wind, the caliber 1400, and has a power reserve of 40 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph and is stamped with the “Hallmark of Geneva” certification. Not many certainties in life, but I can say for sure that this watch is timeless. 

21 – Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. #m126500ln-0001)

Another option that can easily speak for itself, I firmly believe you shouldn’t overlook the Cosmograph Daytona from Rolex. I’m talking about features like a Black Cerachrom bezel supported by a platinum-coated tachymetric scale.

The physical features of the watch are impressive enough, but their choice of a white dial is what really sells the surroundings. I feel like you get a great blend of timeless Rolex design with modern functionality when it comes to this watch. It’s also important to note that it comes with a three-link design and might seem bulkier on smaller wrists. 

Conclusion

As a multi-white dial watch owner, I can admit my biases in this discussion. Earlier, I talked about how when you walk through your local grocery store, mall, and restaurant, you’ll see an abundance of blue, silver, and black dial watches.

Do not mistake my intention here because there is nothing wrong with that. But if you’re in the market for something less common, go try on a watch with a white dial.  The best part? As you’ve just seen, there’s something for everyone. 

Glowing lights in dark places have often sparked a childlike fascination in humans. Think of bioluminescent insects like fireflies, glowworms, etc, and the naive thrill that emanates from watching these enchanting marvels immediately comes to mind.

It’s the same for watches. You don’t have to be a watch enthusiast for the luminescent material that glows through a watch’s dial in the dark to kindle a childlike sense of delight.

Lume is the term given to the luminescent material or glowing solution applied on watch dials to keep them legible in the dark. The first instances of watch luminescence surfaced during the first World War when soldiers desired to tell the time without using a flashlight. 

In response, watchmakers began applying self-luminous paint on watch dials. These luminous watches turned out to be a critical tool, enabling soldiers to tell the time in the dark during battles. Despite being a historic advancement in the watch world, the luminous materials were radium-based.

Repeated exposure to the radioactive substance proved fatal, leading to a drastic reduction in its use and a subsequent ban in 1968. Since then, lume has evolved. From the story about how luminous timepieces saved lives in hellish trenches to the best lume watches trending right now, read on!

Short Guide

What Is A Watch Lume?

Lume is a shortened form of the word luminescence. So when we talk of ‘lume’ watches, we mean watches with properties enabling them to emit light rays visible in the dark. 

A luminous phosphorescent solution is generally applied to the hands, dials, hour markers, and sometimes the bezels of a watch. Usually, in a green or blue hue, the glowing solution absorbs light and re-emits it. Though this normally occurs during production, it is possible to “relume” a watch’s dial. 

Reluming means removing the old luminous material from the dial, hands, and hour markers, and applying new luminous material to it. It is important to relume a watch if it is a vintage timepiece and has a dial containing radium lume (which is radioactive). 

The duration of the lume effect varies according to the type of luminous solution (more on this later) and the amount applied to the watch. Whether single or multiple layers are used to ensure a long-lasting glow depends on the cost of the watch and the brand.

Which Watch Brand Has The Best Lume?

Different watch brands use their proprietary blend of luminous material (often strontium aluminate), and the brightness produced at the end depends on the chemistry of the luminous materials. Many watch enthusiasts argue that Omega, Seiko, and Panerai are the lume kings. Super-LumiNova is what Omega uses and is a blend of strontium aluminate.

It also is one of the brightest and longest glowing lume with exceptional legibility. Seiko uses its proprietary LumiBrite, an impressive luminescence variant found in all its diver watches ranging from affordable models to ones reaching thousands of dollars. Even though LumiBrite is relatively new in Seiko luminous dial painting, the glowing solution is impressively bright, longer-lasting, and free of radioactive substances.

About Lume In a Watch

A timepiece is generally as useful as its capacity to tell time. That said, most watches invented before luminescence was applied to watch dials had limitations. Though exquisite and finely crafted, they were, at best, ‘part-time’ watches.

With no smartphones or streetlights, time reading at night meant holding your timepiece to candlelight. This soon became a major problem, leading to the invention of the minute repeater complication. Timepieces that featured this complication came with an independent chiming machinery that could strike distinct sounds for minutes, quarter hours, and hours with the aid of two small hammers.

Unfortunately, it was only for rich folks, and the problem continued until people got innovative, leading to the invention of lume. Applied mostly for the legibility benefits it offers, watch lume has proved immensely beneficial for telling time in less-than-ideal lighting conditions.

Luminous hour markers and hands were first applied to wristwatches when World War 1 was raging, and since that time, most tool watches have continued to use a healthy dose of lume.

Inherently a byproduct of warfare, lume was conceived solely for utility. As a matter of fact, among the British troops, a luminous wristwatch with unbreakable glass was part of the soldier’s kit.

Some contemporary watch enthusiasts may consider lume as nothing more than a cool detail that enhances the aesthetics of a watch. However, it does more than improve the visual complexity of any timepiece. It provides legibility in low light conditions, which remains extremely useful for camping and diving. 

Tales of Lume Watches: Where it all Began

Luminescent materials have been used in watchmaking for over a century. The history of watch luminescence goes way back to 1898 with the discovery of Radium by Marie and Pierre Curie. Already known for its self-luminous properties, watchmakers began applying radium paint on the dials and hands of watches to make them legible in the dark.

The first instances of this application surfaced around World War I when soldiers deserted their pocket watches and began depending on wristwatches because of the ease of telling time promptly. However, they couldn’t read their timepieces in the dark, and using a flashlight on the combat front meant giving away their location, hence the necessity of watch luminescence. 

The revolutionary lume technology was groundbreaking then, leading to global demand for wristwatches with it. Radium, which produced a bright glow when combined with zinc sulfide, was applied to the hands and indices to provide luminescence with a precision brush.

The brushes are pointed with the tongue before the application of the solution by the employees (primarily young women) to shape the bristles and achieve a fine line. Unfortunately, radium proved to be radioactive (yup, radioactive!), and several of these women developed severe medical complications as a result of the radiation exposure (the “Radium Girls” story comes in here).

Of course, it was time for a new type of luminous material. So watchmakers quickly replaced radium paint with tritium-based luminous material in the 1970s. Undeterred by its weak radioactivity, Tritium was used up to the 1990s. It was in the mid-90s that Kenzo Nemoto, a Japanese entrepreneur, developed a safe and non-radioactive phosphorescent solution.

The strontium aluminate-based photoluminescent material gradually took the place of tritium. However, it only partially replaced it. References to tritium today in watchmaking are often about tritium gas tubes. These tubes are thin cylindrical glasses filled with gaseous tritium to ensure a luminescent glow.

Recent luminous materials are based on photoluminescent solutions (like strontium aluminate). These non-toxic materials are used as lume and work by absorbing and re-emitting light. Examples are Super-LumiNova, Chromalight (Rolex), and LumiBrite (Seiko). They usually come in green or blue hues.

What to Look for When Shopping for Watches With the Best Lume

Luminosity

A perfectly lumed watch should glow homogeneously with no obscurity or shades of luminescence in the dial. The hands, indices, etc, should shine brightly for a long time. Some watch brands have mentioned that if the lume is exposed for up to ten minutes to the light of more than 520 lux, it will glow for somewhere between 30 minutes to three hours.

Lume Material

There happens to be an array of luminous materials used by different watch brands to keep watches legible in low-light conditions. Many brands even use patented photoluminescent formulas.

For instance, Rolex’s Chromalight has a signature blue sheen and lasts up to eight hours when fully charged, while Seiko’s Lumibrite can last for over nine hours. It’s important to note the lume material used for a watch before buying it if you’re particular about this feature.

Duration

The duration of the lume is just how long it will glow in dark conditions. It is clear that tritium was the strongest lume and lasted for several hours, but it’s now gone for all the right reasons. The lume of any timepiece is useless if the glowing effect endures only for a few minutes.

Factors that affect the duration of luminescence range from exposure to a strong light to the amount of lume applied and the type of luminous material used.

Looks

There is an assortment of preferences when it comes to the luminous coating in watches. The appreciation of lume does not end at its functional purpose but stretches to its looks as well. You would think that lume is one size fits all, but the range is quite varied, with the green and blue lume being the most common. 

C3 Super-LumiNova has the brightest strength and gives off a green (sometimes yellow) color. BGW9 follows closely and is light blue in the dark but somewhat whiter during the day. There are many other colors you can choose from but expect a reduced amount of brilliance.

Watches With Tritium Lume

1. Marathon General Purpose Mechanical

Starting this list is none other than Marathon’s General Purpose Mechanical (GPM) – 34mm watch. Loved for Its military-issued timepieces, Marathon is renowned for combining Swiss engineering and expertise with military robustness.

Tritium radiance is a pivotal element across the brand’s collections, and if you really want a functional watch with outstanding tritium lume, Marathon is highly recommended.

Made in Switzerland and created to meet tough MIL-W-46374 specification standards, the GPM (General Purpose Mechanical) watch was designed with the highest level of craftsmanship and quality.

The high-impact composite fiber shell case measures 34mm and will stay tightly fitted to a range of wrists, thanks to its 16mm nylon strap that coordinates with the color of the case. Born out of military necessity, the dial is everything you’d expect from a function-first tool watch. 

The Lume used on the indices and hands is none other than tritium gas tubes which will continue to glow without exposure to light. Unlike other contemporary luminous materials, tritium is also known to offer consistent brightness for prolonged periods. 

The dial is thus guaranteed to offer impeccable legibility in all lighting conditions, especially when you include spectacular white hands projecting from a matte black dial.

Beating inside the heart of the watch at a rate of 21,600bph is Seiko’s NH35, a reliable automatic movement with 24 jewels. The dial of the GPM is guarded by extremely strong and scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal. 

2. Ball Roadmaster StarLight Bronze Watch (42mm RR1102-C)

Ball Watch is a Swiss luxury company known for its quality timepieces that work incredibly well in adverse conditions. Apart from churning out elegant watches, Ball is one of the major brands that employ the use of encapsulated tritium hour markers on its timepieces to enhance legibility.

In terms of design, the watch brand stands out for creating timeless watches that feature a modern yet classic look. Coming in a bronze case that measures 42mm, the corrosion-resistant Ball Roadmaster Starlight Bronze Watch demonstrates a strong emphasis on functionality.

Since the clear and swift reading of the dial has always been a top consideration for every BALL watch, the numerals and hands feature the brand’s signature tritium gas tubes. The luminous properties of these tritium tubes can glow perpetually for up to 25 years without requiring charging from an external light source.

Due to the glass tubes used here, the numerals have turned out to look a bit digital, giving the watch a distinct look that offsets the vintage idea. Apart from the copious luminescence, the dive watch is water resistant to a depth of 200 meters and is COSC chronometer-certified.

For those unfamiliar with the term, COSC stands for Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres. Every timepiece certified as a chronometer by the COSC must have undergone a series of rigorous tests. The bronze watch is equipped with the automatic ETA 2836-2, which provides 38 hours of power reserve. 

3. Luminox Leatherback Sea Turtle Giant, 44MM – 0337

Luminox is a luxury watch brand notable for its value-driven timepieces that were rugged enough to be the number one choice for U.S. Navy SEALs in the early 1990s.

The California-based watchmaker has made Its mark in the watch world thanks to its readable, robust, and high-quality tactical watches. The Swiss-made timepieces are known for providing long-term luminescence with the use of GTLS (Gaseous Tritium Light Source). 

The Leather Sea Turtle Giant features a case back that mimics a turtle’s curved shell earning it the turtle nickname. The dial features the proven GTLS Luminox technology that guarantees self-powered readability in low-light conditions with a constant glow for up to 25 years. GTLS tubes are incorporated into all the hour markers. 

Additional tritium inserts adorn the hands of the watch, offering a 24hr illumination. The Cabonox case is extremely lightweight, weighing only 45 grams on its webbing NATO strap. Coming from Luminox, the watch is flawlessly styled with orange accents that contrast with the green dial producing an overall legible effect.

With a diameter of 44mm and a lug width of 22mm, the sports watch will sit snugly on various wrists. Inside, an affordable and highly accurate Swiss Quartz movement powers the watch. Apart from requiring little or no manual maintenance, quartz movements are known for their longevity, as they can last the user up to 30 years. Finally, this affordable timepiece has a screw-down case back that ensures 100 meters of water resistance.

Watches With Super-LumiNova

Super-LumiNova happens to be the go-to luminous material of many reputable watchmakers. It is a Swiss-made lighting product with no radioactive properties (unlike radium and tritium). As a result, it is 100% safe for the end user and the manufacturer. It is based on alkaline earth aluminate and works by absorbing natural and artificial ultraviolet light during exposure, which illuminates in lowlight conditions.

4. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Ref. 220.10.41.21.10.001

Starting this part of the list is none other than Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra for all the right reasons. In 1997, Omega announced that all its watches would no longer use tritium. In replacement, a blend of strontium aluminate or Super Luminova was to be used.

Since then, Omega has stayed as one of the watch brands with the brightest and longest glowing lume. Indeed this timepiece is a nod to Omega’s long-standing reputation for top-notch legibility.

Equipped to remain readable at profound depths and darkness, the Seamaster Aqua Terra comes in a stainless steel case with a polished and brushed bracelet.

The sun-brushed green dial is both legible and stunning, with a design that features horizontal teak patterns. Omega does a great job marrying functionality with aesthetics to create an elegant timepiece.

The rhodium-plated hands and indices are all filled with white Super-LumiNova, ensuring optimal readability even at depths of 150 meters underwater. The 41mm stainless steel case houses the Caliber 8900, which offers an impressive power reserve of 60 hours. 

Manufactured to the highest standards, the Aqua Terra 150m is a standard luxury selection for anyone desiring one of the best luminous watches with a quintessential design. Lastly, it has a transparent case back, a self-locking crown, and a date display window at 6 o’clock.

5. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927

Famous for its chronographs, TAG Heuer remains a favorite sports watch brand with one of the most renowned racing and diving timepieces. The Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 bears TAG Heuer’s sporting spirit with a subtle masculine flair that is complimented by a modern touch.

The iconic sports watch was designed with refined hands and indexes that are easily readable even at top speed. Horizontal stripes add depth to the blue dial, while the bold hour markers and hands have been generously coated with green C3 lume.  

Everything looks particularly sharp; the uncluttered dial, dodecagonal bezel, bold hour markers, etc, all with a generous application of Super Luminova for excellent legibility all around the clock.

The sharp-lined geometric steel case measures 43mm in diameter. Together with the slightly elongated lugs, a perfect balance between aesthetics and comfortability is attained. A combination of brushed and polished surfaces makes it sharp but not overly glittery, which is just ideal for sports-car enthusiasts.

Overall, the Aquaracer Ref. WAY2012.BA0927 was designed to offer optimal legibility at top speeds and does that beautifully. It is water resistant to a depth of 300 meters (30ATM), and a Sapphire crystal protects the dial. Powering the watch is TAG Heuer’s Calibre 5, which offers 38 hours of power reserve. 

6. Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date

Coming in the sub-$1000 range, the Tag Heuer F1 Grande Date elaborates on Heuer’s technological innovation in motorsports. Built for those who dare to constantly be on edge, the watches in the F1 line are all bold, precise, and ultra-legible.

The Grande Date comes in brushed stainless steel that measures 44mm in diameter with a height of 12.50mm. The measurements might seem big, but due to the shape of the case and bezel, it wears thinner than the measurements indicate.

The dial layout is flawlessly styled with luminous hour markers and numerals. One of the most interesting things about this timepiece is that it offers a full lume dial against other luminous watches with lume applied only on their hands and hour markers.

That said, the entire dial glows in low light conditions, but different shades of Super-LumiNova are used for the numerals and markers. Readability is optimized with this approach making it an integral tool for racers and divers alike. There’s a beautiful sub-dial for the seconds with a perfectly integrated date display (“Grande Date”) at 6 o’clock. 

Overall, the whole dial is super legible with raised black markers that are round, just like the classic F1 timepiece. A distinctive triangle above the 12 o’clock position adds to the symmetry of the dial, while brightly brushed numerals on the uni-directional bezel can be seen at 5-minute intervals.

A quality quartz movement keeps the watch highly accurate, which is just appropriate because racers should never have to bother about winding their watches. The elegant timepiece is water-resistant to a depth of 200 meters, and the dial is protected by a flat Sapphire crystal.

7. Longines Hydroconquest L3.781.4.56.6

Longines is a brand with a strong heritage in the vast world of watchmaking. Known for creating the first chronograph movement for a wristwatch (the ‘13.33Z), Longines has longstanding ties to varied forms of water sports and horse racing. The Hydroconquest line boasts this rich tradition with refined elegance and technical innovation.

Measuring 41mm in diameter, the Hydroconquest Ref. L3.781.4.56.6 is a high-performing timepiece with a lug-to-lug of 50mm. Though the dimensions suggest the watch is hefty, the curved lugs and flowing bracelet ensure a firm grip on the wrist. The case features a matte brushed finish letting the sunray black dial reflect pleasantly. 

Large applied Arabic numbers at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions contribute to the personality of this timepiece, while silvered polished hands and lumed dots keep the dial ultra legible and neat. There are no lumed dots on the 12 and 6 o’clock positions, and the Arabic numeral at 3 o’clock has been discarded for a date window to maintain the dial’s symmetry.

All the hands are silvered polished and have been treated with Swiss Super-LumiNova that will glow green in lowlight conditions. The central second’s hand has a ‘lollipop’ on its head, which is luminescent, the minute’s hand has lume down its spine, and the hour hand has a diamondlike area also filled with lume. 

Overall, Longlines goes above and beyond to offer maximum legibility, which can immediately be noticed with the way the dial has been tidied up with all the extra details done away with. The bare essentials are further heightened with the sunray black and silver color; just the right color scheme for top-notch legibility. 

8. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence

Presented in a stainless steel case that measures 40mm in diameter, the Senator Excellence 1-36-01-03-02-65 is an elegant watch with a vintage feel that does not compromise its sporty look. The case fit and finish are superb, with polished and satin-brushed surfaces that elegantly reflect the light.

The top is brushed vertically, the bottom axially and the sides of the case are horizontally brushed. Under the scratch-resistant Sapphire crystal is a grainy matte black dial moderately inlaid with Super-LumiNova. The black dial contrasts perfectly with the large and luminous Arabic numerals in white, offering crisp clear legibility whenever you need it.

The steel glaive hands of the Senator Excellence are also filled with Super-LumiNova, and little triangles on the chapter ring at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock highlight the practicality of the timepiece.

Day or night, the details on the dial can be read at a glance with zero inconveniences, as Glashütte’s designers have worked at keeping it visually striking. Inside the beautiful watch is the Calibre 36-01, a robust automatic movement operating at 4Hz (28.800 vph) with an impressive power reserve of 100 hours. 

The finely finished movement with polished chamfers, 21-carat gold oscillation weight, a skeletonized rotor, and blued screws can all be savored through the sapphire crystal case back. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.

9. Hublot Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic (Ref. 451.FX.6923.FX)

Recognized for its mastery of complex materials, Hublot is a brand loved by many for its bold designs. The Big Bang Integral Grey Ceramic is a sporty chronograph watch that bears Hublot’s innovative spirit and craftsmanship.

Coming in a 42 mm x 13.45 mm case, the model of this timepiece is monobloc so the first link of the bracelet has been fused with the case (hence the name of the watch). A high-tech ceramic that is highly resistant to scratches and about three times the hardness of steel is used for the entire timepiece except for the crown, folding clasp, H-shaped bezel screws, and a few others that have been crafted from titanium.

The open-worked dial is protected by a flat sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The stunning dial showcases gears, a date disc, and a chronograph column wheel. At 9 o’clock is a skeletonized sub-dial, while at 3 o’clock is a chronograph counter.

The dial is profoundly readable due to its large hands and indices being filled generously with Super-LumiNova. The sports watch also has a sharp look that is just ideal but not shiny due to the alternating polished and satin-brushed finishing of the case and bracelet.

Beating at the frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Unico HUB1280, a self-winding chronograph flyback movement that offers 72 hours of power reserve. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.

10. Oris Aquis Date (Blue)

The Oris Aquis Date is a stunning timepiece perfect for divers who desire to tell the time at a glance at depths where legibility is crucial. The dial has a shimmering effect which Oris attributes to the appearance of sunlight on the water surface, bringing considerable gleeful design to the otherwise tough and high-performance watch.

The ref:73377304135MB comes in a 43.5mm stainless steel case and bracelet. The sunburst dark blue dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal that has an interior anti-reflective coating. The overall legibility is captivating as the blue dial contrasts perfectly with the applied silver indices.

The silver indices, hour, minute, and second hands all have white Super-LumiNova inserts that glow green for maximum legibility under the waves. A date window sits neatly at 6 o’clock, keeping the uncluttered dial very balanced, so a lot of thinking must have gone into this dial to keep it legible and clean.

The bezel on the Aquis Date is also surprisingly crisp, and as usual, a ceramic bezel is known to be a champion against scratches is used. True to its purpose as a high-performing dive watch, the bezel has 15-minute markers and a dot in the triangle at 12, which is luminous.

Powering the timepiece with a 38-hour power reserve is the robust Oris 733 automatic which is based on Sellita SW200-1. It beats at 28,800vph and has 26 jewels.  

11. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015 1130 52A)

Ending the best lume watches with SuperLumiNova is an extraordinary dive watch… I present to you Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms in all its glory. The one word that can be used to describe this timepiece is ‘breathtaking’. It is bold, lovely, alluring, and radiant.

The watch features a black sunburst dial that contrasts excellently well with the white gold indices. The bezel also features Arabic numerals at fifteen-minute intervals with a few hash marks from 12 o’clock to 3 o’clock. All of the markers are crisp white gold and contrast beautifully with the gloss black bezel.

The sword-shaped hands have been treated with Super-LumiNova and will let out a greenish glow in the dark. The handset is a defining feature of this watch; the large hour hand has a diamond-shaped area filled with lume, the longer minute hand features lume down its spine, and the lollipop zone of the central second hand is also luminescent.

To avoid undesirable reflections, the central facet has been flattened. Together with a fully-lumed bezel insert, the dial is profoundly luminescent, offering amazing low-light visibility. The case measures a full 45mm in diameter and is more than 15mm thick, so it’s not for people with narrow wrists. It is water-resistant to a depth of 300 meters. At the heart of the watch is the caliber 1315, an automatic movement with a solid gold rotor with 120 hours of power reserve.

The Best Lume Watches

12. Seiko Monster SRPH13K1

Seiko is undoubtedly a legend in the field of dive watches. The Prospex collection (Prospex is short for Professional Specifications) continues the brand’s legacy with this tough and durable timepiece. Presented in a DLC-coated stainless steel case that measures 42.4mm in diameter, the Prospex Monster SRPH13K1 is a true sports watch with a sharp design.

The striking black dial is consistent with the overall back theme of the watch. The watch has a lug width of 20mm, so you can quickly replace the silicon strap. The dial has a day-date window function at 3 o’clock with rectangular applied hour markers large enough to contain a generous amount of lume.

Seiko’s Lumibrite has been lavishly applied on the hour hand, minute hand, and triangular tip of the second’s hand, making the watch excellently legible in low-lit conditions. Since the watch has to be perfectly visible underwater, it is great to note that it meets the stern ISO 6425 “Diver” watch specifications.

The dial is protected by the brand’s proprietary Hardlex crystal, which is harder and more scratch-resistant than mineral glass. Above the day-date display is a magnifying glass (cyclops) to aid reading. It is powered by Seiko’s caliber 4R36, an automatic movement with hacking and manual winding functions that offers a power reserve of 41 hours.

13. Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243

Instantly recognizable for its high-grade materials and understated elegance, Grand Seiko has become the number one go-to luxury brand with affordable and elegant timepieces. The Grand Seiko Ref. SBGV243 measures just right at a diameter of 40.1mm across its stainless steel case, with a 46.6mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 11.8mm.

The dial is black with a subtle vertically-brushed texture, and the yellow accents add a certain sporty flair to the timepiece without taking away the overall vintage vibes. Large, applied indices have been generously filled with Seiko’s LumiBrite for legibility anytime, anywhere.  LumiBrite is an improved fluorescent luminous material that is brighter than some conventional luminous materials and is known to last up to 10 times longer.

The minute and hour hands also have a great deal of lume applied carefully to ensure excellent legibility. Besides clarity, Seiko’s Lumibrite also improves the aesthetics of the dial, giving it an additional dazzle. The quality of the case finishing is outstanding, with a screw-down crown and water resistance rating of 200 meters. 

Overall, the highly accurate quartz watch has been built with great precision and care, as can be observed in the diligence given to its execution. A sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface protects the dial.

14. Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba (Ref. H82201131)

Coming in a 37mm stainless steel case, the Khaki Navy Scuba is a highly functional unisex watch with 100 meters of water resistance. The affordable timepiece exudes a sense of luxury with its black dial and stainless steel bracelet. The dial contains a lot of information but manages to remain uncluttered.

A 24-hour scale surrounds the inner part of the hour markers, which is typical of the Hamilton Khaki design. Bold white trapezoids take up all the cardinal positions (12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock), while rectangular ones are used for the other hour markers.

All the hour markers are filled with a generous amount of lume. The hands are mirror polished, and the hour and minute hands have also been treated with lume.  The healthy amount of lume in the hour markers and mirror-polished hands will keep the watch ultra-legible in the dark.

Prominent crown guards executed in a fine manner give the timepiece a tough look, while the screw-down crown, which feels smooth and pleasant to operate, has an H logo that compliments that of the dial. The highly accurate quartz watch is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters. Much thought has gone into the design and proportions of the Khaki Navy Scuba, and it is executed extremely well with profound legibility of the dial, hands, and bezel.

15.  A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Lumen (Ref: 405.034)

A. Lange & Söhne is respected for its outstanding models with complications that range from chronographs, tourbillons, annual calendars, and perpetual calendars… you name it.

The ‘Lumen’ collection is defined by its luminescent-inclined timepieces that feature a copious amount of lumed markers. The Ref: 405.034 is a particular stunner in this regard and pays tribute to the brand’s long-lasting watchmaking tradition.

The 41mm case is made from platinum, a pure metal which, apart from being uncommon, is hypoallergenic and has a lovely density. The Datograph Lumen has a flyback chronograph (which allows you to operate the reset function without having to stop the chronograph), two sub-dials, a power reserve indicator, and a quick-set oversized date window.

The smoked sapphire dial is breathtaking and can be dubbed the king of lumed watches. Nearly all the indications on the Datograph Lumen are luminescent. The watch’s numerals, hour, and minute hands have an ample amount of luminous material and will glow brightly in the dark through the sapphire glass that features a light-permeable coating. 

The grand date is ultra legible and also luminescent. The chronograph sweep-seconds hand, the registers, the chronograph counters, the tachymeter, and the minute scale are all luminescent and will let out a magical glow in the dark.

16. Rolex Submariner Date

Aside from the reliability of a Rolex, the Submariner Date from their catalog is known for its beauty and sizable luminescence. More specifically, I feel the lume really has a chance to shine due to the contrast of the Oystersteel color.

The boldness of this watch is found in many components, from the thick rotatable bezel to a chromalight display. I can tell just by putting it on that the watch can last more than a single lifetime. Moreover, I can’t ignore the fact that the lume draws my eye in any kind of dim lighting.

You really don’t need it to be pitch black for the lume to stand out on your wrist. With a matching Oystersteel bracelet, the Submariner Date from Rolex offers a professional look without compromising on functionality.

More specifically, I always make it a point to highlight that the watch is made with 904L steel. This means you get substantial, durable resistance with a pristine finish that is a great example of timeless luxury. 

Although I don’t have much Rolex variety in my collection, this is one I had to have. For me personally, it’s the bold take with the lume that makes the watch feel a bit different from others I have on hand.

Conclusion

Watch luminescence has evolved over the decades with upgraded and better-quality luminous materials coming into the scene. Though solely conceived for utility, the patina craze reveals to us that the appeal of lumed watches is not only driven by their illuminating properties. 

Having a great lume watch is a necessity, and many watch brands now design their timepieces with a healthy dose of lume. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we carry a lot of respectable brands that produce watches with excellent lume. If none of the watches in this list meets your expectations, check out other brands here.

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