Rising to the Surface:  Best Value Propositions in Today’s Sea of Dive Watches

The history of the modern dive wristwatch began in 1953 with the release of the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms, and possibly the Zodiac Sea Wolf (though that one is still the subject of debate.)

In the years since, this area of watch collecting has become popular with water sports enthusiasts and “desk divers” alike.  Today it’s a crowded market – with a ton of options at virtually every price point imaginable. 

But there is real value at the cost-conscious end of the spectrum these days, and we thought we’d showcase some options that won’t break the bank but can still take a beating on your next trip to the beach.

Doxa Sub 300 Professional

When the DOXA Sub 300 was released in 1967, there was nothing else on the market quite like it.  Legibility and functionality were prioritized above all else, and it was conceived purely as a tool watch. 

The fact that it ended up looking super bad-ass was just the icing on the cake.  If Jacques Cousteau is wearing your watch, you know you’ve done something right.

Sold in dive shops, the Sub 300 stood out due to its orange dial – which was more easily read underwater than the ocean (see what I did there?) of black dial dive watches available from everyone else. 

Its 42.5 mm case, unidirectional bezel with naval decompression dive markings, and oversized hands with generous tritium lume further enhanced readability. 

Its revolutionary expandable bracelet that could fit over a wetsuit completed the package for a diver whose watch could literally be the difference between life and death.   

After several ownership changes, design pivots, peaks, and valleys, DOXA released a small, limited number of Sub 300 models for the brand’s 50^th anniversary in 2017 – all of which immediately sold out. 

But then to everyone’s surprise, they came back in 2020…with basically the same watch but without limited production. 

Produced in the same size as the original and with the obligatory 300 m of water resistance, it was an attractive option for those who missed out on the earlier release. 

This new model, however, did incorporate a chronometer-grade ETA 2824-2 movement, a dive bezel in meters rather than feet, and brighter lume. 

Available on a strap or “beads of rice” steel bracelet, this is the version still available today.  You’d be hard-pressed to find another true tool watch with this level of cache, tech, and history for under $2600.00.  

Casio G-Shock

When one thinks of the ultimate value proposition in the watch industry, the G-Shock by Casio usually enters the chat.  It’s the watch that many horology nerds use as their “beater,” and it’s easy to see why.

The G-Shock is absolutely chock full of technical goodies, and it’s basically indestructible.  And what’s more – there are almost countless models to pick from.  Different cases, materials, finishes, sizes, functions – the world is literally your oyster.  While you’re actually harvesting oysters – if that’s your thing. 

The story goes that in 1981, Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe bumped into a pedestrian and his mechanical watch fell off his wrist and shattered. 

Soon after, Kikuo assembled a group at Casio nicknamed “Team Tough” with the goal of creating a watch that would have “Triple 10” Resistance:  10 years of battery life, 10 bar water resistance, and could survive a fall of 10 meters. 

After nearly 200 prototypes, a dejected Kikuo wandered over to a playground and discovered that the center of a rubber ball doesn’t suffer central shocks during a bounce. 

The team then pivoted to develop a watch with this material and concept in mind, and in April of 1983, the first production G-Shock was born.  

Since then, this digital quartz model has continued to grow in popularity, technical prowess, and toughness. 

A commercial showing a G-Shock being used as a hockey puck (with subsequent proof it wasn’t faked) helped drive the watch’s popularity in the 1990’s, with Casio releasing more than 200 different models and selling 19 million pieces by 1998. 

Videos of G-Shocks being rolled over by tanks and heavy trucks can be found with a simple Google search, and the list of functions you get are almost endless. The best part?  They’re nearly all under $500.00, with most under $400.00. 

Professional divers, the U.S. military, professional athletes – all can be found with a Casio G-Shock strapped to their wrist.  It is the definition of a watch you can put on and never have to worry about…at least not for 10 years. 

Hamilton

When people think of the history of American watchmaking, three companies come to mind:  Waltham, Hamilton, and Illinois (who were eventually bought by Hamilton. 

And while it still feels like watchmaking in the U.S. is a product of a bygone era, Hamilton has managed to survive as a brand due to its focus on value, functionality, and thoughtful design.

Founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania; Hamilton began as a pocket watch manufacturer – supplying pieces to railroad conductors, military men, pilots, and others who needed a supremely accurate timepiece as part of their kit. 

By the time World War II hit, Hamilton was manufacturing modern (non-conversion) wristwatches and between 1942 -1945, the company produced over one million watches and marine chronometers – earning an Army-Navy E award for excellence in manufacturing.

However, the 1950’s were to be Hamilton’s last decade as a fully U.S. manufacturer.  A joint venture in 1962 with Japanese maker Ricoh kicked off the quest for distant shores, and though that partnership failed, it was quickly followed by Hamilton acquiring Buren Watch Company of Switzerland in 1966. 

From the next 3 years, Hamilton and Buren were operated as a joint venture, but the writing was on the wall and in 1969, Hamilton fully moved its manufacturing operations to the Buren factory in Switzerland.  A sale to SSIH/Swatch group came in 1974, and that’s where the brand resides to this day.

Today’s Hamilton is laser focused on offering watches that punch well above their weight.  I personally know many folks who think the Khaki Field watch is one of the best deals going…and there are tons of options to pick from. 

For purposes of this article, we’ll focus on the Khaki Navy line, which is quite a nice group of divers.  The bronze automatic GMT in 43 mm has quite the wrist presence and will change color over time – which is pretty neat and makes me think of those old diving bells ala Jules Verne (an analogy further enhanced by its 300 m water resistance rating.)

That’s a solid package for under $1600.00 to be sure.  But, for just over half that price, consider the automatic Navy Scuba in 40 mm. 

You get the same level of power reserve (a whopping 80 hours), a stainless-steel case with bracelet, sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance…which is plenty for 99% of the population.

Laco Squad Amazonas 300 Meter Dive Watch 

Laco is a German brand celebrating its 100^th anniversary this year, and it’s a history worth honoring.  Laco is one of only 5 manufacturers to have produced the B-Uhren watch for German Luftwaffe pilots.  

Today, the brand excels at showcasing historically accurate aviator pieces from the 1940’s, but at a price point that is much easier on the wallet than a military-issued vintage example.  

But in addition to their pilot watches, Laco has branched out in recent years to create timepieces suited to a wider variety of environments. 

These watches are tough, include plenty of functionality, and like all the rest of the timepieces on this list, they are as at home in the water as they are on land.

One of my favorite examples from this group is the Squad Amazonas 39.  In this piece, easy readability and high function mixes with a fun presentation to create a statement that is a bit unique in this category. 

Colored superluminova matches the minute hand to other parts of the dial and bezel, while white matches the hour hand to the rest. 

It’s a unique, playful design that works visually while also enhancing usability.  A screw-down crown protected by crown guards helps finish things off, but the final “pop” (if you will) is the lollipop-style second hand, adding some vintage charm to this very contemporary piece.

While the scorpion insignia on the back indicates its adaptability in a variety of environments, this watch would be right at home in the ocean. 

300 meters of water resistance should satisfy both hobbyists and serious divers, and the Sellita SW 200 is dependable and easy to service.  To complete the dive look, go for the ruggedly attractive rubber strap option.  $1130.00

Nivada Grenchen 14131A01 Depthmaster Black Pumpkin

Founded in 1926 Grenchen, Switzerland, Nivada is a brand that moved with the times.  Formal manual wind timepieces in the 1930’s-1940’s gave way to automatic sports and dive watches in the 1950’s-1960’s. 

While never making an in-house movement, their watches were considered to be of high quality and offered a lot of value. 

Vintage Nivada’s can be found containing a variety of movements – from time-only ETA’s and A Schild’s, to Valjoux and Venus chronograph calibres…they even made alarm watches using both Vulcain and Phenix movements!  But when speaking of Nivada’s historical models, two stand out from the rest. 

The first is the Antarctic, made famous by Admiral Byrd in Operation Deep Freeze during the 1957/1958 International Geophysical Year.  The other is the Depthmaster, or what is known in watch nerd circles as the “Pac-Man” (due to the shape of the dial’s Arabic numerals.).

Launched in 1965, the Depthmaster was the first commercially available dive watch to have 1000 meters of water resistance. 

Nivada would in fact hold that record for 13 years until the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 16660 surpassed it in 1978.  Yes – this is a rare instance when Rolex was actually playing catch-up instead of setting the pace.

After succumbing to the “Quartz Crisis” of the 1970’s-1980’s, Nivada Grenchen was relaunched in 2018, with the first models rolling out in 2020. 

The new Pac-Man was released in 2021, and like the brand’s other recent releases, it’s a faithful rendition of the watch’s original design language, proportions, and feel. 

Measuring only 1 mm more than the original at 39 mm, the cushion-shaped case in brushed steel is quite comfortable on most wrists. 

Like the original, it features a strong, unidirectional bezel with a classic 60-minute diving scale – with the first 15 minutes being graduated.

Inside is a Sellita SW 200-1, which seems well in line with the company’s history (sure it could have been an ETA for historical accuracy but that feels like splitting hairs here.)

This is a rugged dive watch with a strong wrist presence despite its size.  For $1250.00, there’s a lot of details to love here. 

But why not take it all the way into the dive look and pick up the Black Pumpkin with orange dial?  It’s in stock, in a limited edition of 70 pieces, and just looks super-badass.  Note that this one comes with a Soprod P024 Caliber instead, levelling things up a bit.

Oris Divers 65

In our article on Best Casual Watches for Men, I called out one of Oris’ signature pieces – the Big Crown Date Pointer.  The other signature piece for the brand at the moment?  The Divers 65. 

Since its release in 2015, the brand has released over 50 different references of this model.  In other words, the Divers 65 is inextricably linked to the brand’s identity – one of thoughtful designs and high value propositions.

A mind-boggling number of dial colors, case constructions and sizes are available for the Divers 65, so it really comes down to personal taste.

Their 40 mm offerings feel like a good sweet for many, so in that arena I’d recommend the 65 Blue.  Available on either a strap or bracelet, you get an attractive, if slightly conventional look…but with a date function that I think is masterfully incorporated. 

The watch also features the Oris’ own 733 automatic movement (based on the Selita SW 200-1) and a very well-done version of “vintage-style lume.”  Offered at $2850.00 on bracelet and $2600.00 on strap, it’s a versatile piece that would be at home anywhere. 

As a bonus, the bracelet version is being offered with a free Scatola Del Tempo Viaggio 1 case (a $245.00 value), so if you want one of these, now is the time!

Squale

For the uninitiated, Squale may just be the most important dive watch company that you’ve never heard of. Formed in 1946 in Switzerland under the name von Buren SA, it was primarily known as a specialized case maker for other brands. 

In 1959, the company registered the Squale trademark (meaning “Shark” in French) – and decided it had remained in obscurity long enough. 

Their logo soon began to appear on dials alongside the major brands it manufactured cases for. Most notable of these was perhaps Blancpain, where Squale supplied cases for multiple versions of the Fifty Fathoms under a miltary contract.

Once the 1960’s rolled around, Squale started releasing watches fully under its own brand.  They featured robust cases with a unique water-resistant construction featuring a domed and armed (not “that” kind of armed) plexiglass crystal. 

This crystal was sealed from above using a rubber gasket and both a screw down bezel and moveable bezel.  In 1965, Italian freediver Enzo Maiorca set a world record of 67 meters while wearing a Squale Master.  You don’t get much more hardcore than that.

Squale was sold to the Maggi family in 1982 (the Italian distributors of the brand.) A couple of additional models followed before the Quartz Crisis forced the brand into hiatus until 2005, when the Maggi’s decided to relaunch it. 

Production of some of Squale’s most iconic models started up again, and in 2017, they became the official supplier of watches to the Italian State Police Divers Unit.  

Today’s Squale looks just as good as the vintage models, but with much improved tech.  There are many models and configurations to choose from and in fact, it’s difficult for me to recommend just one. 

However, the updated version of the Super Squale would be a solid choice…consider Sunray Grey dial on bracelet for a subtle, unique look and comfortable sizing at 38 mm.  For more of a head-turner, the 1521 Militare on a Milanese bracelet just looks damn cool. 

At 41 mm and with generous lume, it has an undeniable wrist presence…and the 4:00 crown position is a cool touch.

Both models feature the reliable SW200-1 automatic calibre and have plenty of water resistance (200 meters for the Super and 500 meters for the Militare.)  And at under $1200.00, it might even be worth adding both to your collection.

Unimatic U1 Classic

Founded in 2015, Unimatic is known for its minimalist design ethos and robust aesthetic.  Started by two Italian industrial designers, they started the company as a response to what they saw as a market filled with “over-designed” watches. 

Limited production runs are a hallmark of the brand (typically 1000 pieces or less) and they’ve collaborated with big names like Hodinkee and Massena LAB to create models with even more exclusivity.  In the Unimatic universe, form truly follows function – but in an attractive way (at least in my view.)  

Unimatic watches are available fitted with either quartz or automatic movements.  The former features at Seiko VH31 movement and the latter uses either a Sellita SW200-1 or a Seiko NH35A – depending on the model. 

Case sizes vary from 38 mm – 41 mm, and there’s quite the variety to pick from.  Prices are also super reasonable for this level of design.  For my money, the Unimatic U1 classic at $665.00 is hard to beat for an automatic with 1000 feet of water resistance.  

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf

I wrote about the history of the Zodiac Sea Wolf and its current iteration in a previous article on the best casual watches for men. 

It would then stand to reason that the Super Sea Wolf would make our list of accessible dive watches as well.  Released in 1953, 1957, or 1958 depending on who you talk to, the Sea Wolf had a major, and often underappreciated impact on horology.

The original Sea Wolf featured an A Schild automatic movement, a 35 mm stainless steel case, and a water resistance rating of 100 m.  What seems like basic design cues today were revolutionary back then. 

Dauphine hands, Arabic numerals, a rotating bezel, applied triangular markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9:00 – it’s easy to see why this design has largely carried through right up until today.  

The Super Sea Wolf Skin is likely closest to its original ancestor. The rectangular lumed markers, bezel, and dauphine hands remain, as does an automatic Swiss movement (STP 1-11). 

But upgrades include 200 m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and a predicted increase in size to a still reasonable 39 mm.  Readable in any environment and a value at $1295.00, this one makes a strong case for inclusion in your watch box.

All of these models offer a compelling package and would look equally cool on a reef snorkel or sitting at your desk.   Most watch folks would agree that every collection needs a dive watch, and any on this list would be worthy candidates for those not wanting to put a whale-sized blow hole in their budget.