
10 Top Leather Straps for Luxury Watches
Buyers of luxury timepieces sometimes focus so much on the choice of watch that they overlook the importance of the strap or bracelet that binds it to their wrists.
A high quality, artisanal leather strap, for instance, can improve the “wrist presence” of high-end watches, particularly dress pieces, not to mention comfort on the wrist.
The type and texture of the animal hide, along with color, padding, softness, durability, stitching, shape, thickness, flexibility, lining, and taper, all factor into whether or not the leather strap compliments and enhances a watch’s appearance.
Another added benefit of a quality leather strap is that a timely and well-executed “swap out” can give a watch a fresh vibe and help scratch that “new watch itch” that occasionally plagues us all.
In this article we’ll cover 10 top types of leather straps from different manufacturers that can be paired with high-end watches and improve both the look and overall wearing experience.
10 Top Leather Straps
The following list covers a representative range of the type of leather straps currently available for luxury watches.
1. Calfskin
Calfskin is cowhide taken from younger cows and is a widely-used material in premium watch straps today. Calfskin is less expensive than exotic leathers and is characterized by its tight-grain, smooth texture, suppleness, durability, and pleasing patina that develops over time.
Full-grain calfskin uses all layers of the hide and tends to develop a more unique patina due to its non-uniform surface. Top-grain calfskin has had the top layer of the hide removed and is generally more uniform from polishing and finishing.
A good example of a premium calfskin strap is the black, bespoke Classic 3.2 from renowned French leather maison Jean Rousseau. It has a patterned embossed finish that evokes the look and feel associated of vintage, high end watches of yesteryear. Retail $160.
2. Alligator
Alligator is a premium leather strongly associated with classic luxury dress watches. It is derived from the belly of the alligator and costs more than calfskin due to hunting regulations and the high expense of farming them.
Alligator leather has distinctive scales which are uniform, squarish, and elevated, lending the strap depth and texture. The leather tends to be stiff at first but softens with wear, and if cared for properly, can look and feel great decades later.
The Patina Beige Alligator strap from Haddn has warm, glossy, variable hues providing interesting contrast and would work well with gold or gold-colored watches.
Made to your specifications, it also boasts a water-resistant lining, stainless steel pin-buckle, and quick release spring bars for fast and easy change-outs. Retail $165.
3. Crocodile
Like its alligator cousin, crocodile leather is also rarer and more expensive. In contrast, crocodile scales are slightly rougher and larger with rounded edges that are less discrete.
It features a choice of silver, yellow gold, or rose gold-colored buckles with the option of a deployant clasp. The straps are hand-sewn with 0.35m thick linen thread using a durable saddle stitch technique that creates two independent stitches that form a knot at every stitch. Retail $205.
4. Lizard
Since your typical lizard is smaller than an alligator or a crocodile, it’s no surprise that the scales are also smaller, intricate, and more uniform.
Lizard leather is also thinner and more flexible than alligator and crocodile, making it a natural pick for smaller watch cases, particularly vintage ones.
Holben’s sells a black, genuine lizard skin strap manufactured by Hirsch, a family-owned tannery founded in 1765 and located in Klagenfurt, Austria.
It’s available in a wide variety of sizes and buckle materials and finishes, and it comes with “Hirsch’s Velvet Glove lining leather” that is “hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin,” and quick-release bars for easy removal. Retail $115.95.
5. Shell Cordovan
Shell cordovan leather is derived from horses, and it’s known for dense fibers which lend it rugged durability, smooth grain, and a glossy sheen which develops a beautiful patina over time. The manufacturing process is meticulous and takes many steps over the course of several months.
While shell cordovan is a great choice for elegant dress watches, its reputation for resilience also makes it a natural choice for sports and field watches. Veblinist offers a bespoke shell cordovan, single pass, NATO-style strap in 3 colors, black, navy blue, and brown, that provides extra protection should one spring bar fail. They are only 1.3mm thick and unlined, so they are extra soft and require no break-in period. Retail $145.
6. Saffiano
Saffiano is calfskin that has a characteristic cross-hatched pattern that is pressed onto the leather. It is treated with wax which gives it excellent durability, resistance to scratches, and both heat and water resistance.
Saffiano is also a popular material in high-end handbags. Maintenance is easy—simple cleaning with a damp cloth will keep them looking good for a long time.
French company Molequin offers an excellent assortment of Saffiano leather watch straps with colors ranging from conservative black and brown to more playful green, caramel, and “Blue Dawn”. Retail $123.50.
7. Suede
Suede is usually calfskin, sometimes lamb, and is “split-grain,” meaning that the top layers of the hide have been removed, exposing the inner layer.
It is known for its soft, velvety feel, comfort on the wrist, and its extraordinary ability to absorb a wide variety of dyes to produce a rainbow of color options. However, suede is not very water resistant.
Since it is not glossy, many consider suede a more casual or sport option, but a muted black or brown one paired with a high-end dress or vintage watch can be appropriate for many occasions.
While many suede straps are thin with no padding, WatchGeko offers the padded Italian leather Stanton Conceria in 5 different colors, contrasting stitching, and quick release spring bars. Retail $95.
8. Ostrich
If you’re wanting a strap even more exotic than alligator or crocodile, then ostrich leather may be for you. Regarded as a very premium leather associated with high-end luxury watches, it has distinctive round “bumps” from the bird’s quill follicles that can vary in size and thickness.
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Ostrich leather is very soft, supple, and flexible, and makes for a very luxurious wearing experience. It is also very durable and naturally water resistant.
The Strap Tailor has an excellent variety of ostrich straps in a wide range of colors. But if you want that kind of premium feel that stands out from the crowd, you’ll pay extra—retail $167.
9. Vegan
Let’s say you want the look and feel of leather but out of principle want to stay away from animal products. If so, take a look at vegan leather which mimics the look and feel of leather but is made from synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), or plant-based materials such as pineapple leaves, cactus, cork, and grapes. Note that the durability may not be as good as genuine leather.
Spanish company Hurtig Lane specializes in vegan watch straps with various styles, colors, and source materials. Most of their offerings retail in the $100 range.
10. Hybrid leather/rubber
Leather straps generally do not play well with water. One solution that has become more popular in recent years is hybrid leather/rubber, which uses rubber as the inner lining with a genuine leather on top, the latter waxed and polished for more durability and water resistance.
Despite being treated, the leather will still show its natural characteristics and develop a unique patina over time.
Milano Straps offers several hybrid alligator and crocodile rubberized leather straps, including this eye-catching electric blue with orange stitching which retails for $145.
Conclusion
The effect of a luxury watch doesn’t have to stop at the tip of the lugs. A well-chosen, complimentary leather strap will extend a timepiece’s aesthetic impact around the wrist, even as it performs the daily and less glamorous task of keeping it attached to its owner.
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