Category: Watch Reviews

There is no denying the dominant force of the Swiss watch industry. For centuries, Swiss craftsmanship has been synonymous with precision, heritage, and uncompromised luxury. These special techniques and age-old processes hark back to the 16th century and have evolved throughout the years, from the intricate art of clock making to the sophisticated pocket watch and, finally, the era of classic wrist-worn timepieces. But beyond the Alps and the river Rhine lies a story of unique design philosophy rooted in nature and minimalism that often goes unspoken of.

Beneath the shadow of some of the world’s greatest Swiss titans are revered Japanese watchmakers, some of whom have quietly flourished, others of whom have rivalled even the most dominant forces on Swiss soil. Japanese watchmaking is a culture of profound artistry and relentless innovation. This special Asian craft occupies the space between revolutionary solar-powered technology and cutting-edge mechanical precision.

Forget what you think you already know about watchmaking, because if you have only ever known the beauty and quality of Swiss watches, your appreciation for Haute Horlogerie is about to get a whole lot more interesting. We’re going to look at some of the world’s best Japanese watch brands and the designs that have made them the ultimate heavyweights they are today. Here is your guide to Japanese watchmaking…

The history of Japanese watchmaking

Far beyond the well-trodden path of Swiss horology lies a different kind of precision. The Japanese set sail on this voyage during the late 19th century. Mechanical clocks were introduced much earlier than this, of course, but Japan really put itself on the map when it began honing in on mass-produced mechanical and quartz wristwatches. One landmark moment in the history of watchmaking was the year 1881, when Kintaro Hattori founded the company that would later become Seiko.

Seiko began by selling and repairing imported watches and clocks, and eventually, this led to the opening of the Seikosha factory. Here, the first pocket watches were produced, followed by the brand’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. Citizen, however, is another watchmaker that entered the scene around a similar time, tracing its origins back to the Shokosha factory in 1918. The brand pioneered domestic production of watches and focused on making watches that were loved by “citizens” and made accessible to them (you can guess where it took its name). Suffice to say, both of these brands deserve a great deal of recognition for shaping the history of Japanese watchmaking throughout the centuries.

In essence, though the Swiss were associated with some of the most classic-looking timepieces ever made, and had already acquired patents for some of the world’s most impressive mechanical complications, Japan was driven by a focus on national modernisation and began laying the groundwork for the global powerhouse that it later became.

Why buy a Japanese Watch

There is a strong argument for a Japanese-crafted watch. Led by the expertise of Seiko, Japan was able to revolutionise the watch industry when it introduced the first quartz-powered watch. The Seiko Aston was released in 1969 and brought unprecedented accuracy to the wrists of those open to the idea of a more affordable alternative to the traditional Swiss wristwatch. Pretty soon, these watches began turning watch collectors’ heads.

The transition from the Swiss watch to the quartz watch is what we now call the “Quartz Crisis,” and it changed the landscape of timekeeping forever. Today, quartz watches are still a preferred option for many, particularly for their affordability and their unbeatable accuracy. Since the launch of those first quartz watches, Japan has continued to innovate to thrive.

Hybrid movements then began to emerge. The Spring Drive movement developed by Seiko combined the efficiency of the mechanical mainspring with the precision of the quartz movement, resulting in a beautifully sweeping seconds hand and an accuracy that surpasses the quartz movement. In addition to the appeal of the quartz movement and the more accurate Spring Drive hybrid movement, Japan is a leader in solar-powered technology, and this continues to attract those looking for a more economical wristwatch with little to no maintenance. Seiko’s GPS-synchronised wristwatches demonstrate a clear focus on practicality and have led the way forward with environmentally friendly timekeeping.

Although Swiss watchmakers uphold an unsurpassable reputation in crafting wristwatches with beautiful hand finishes, Japanese watches will always reign supreme when it comes to affordable precision. The latter advantage, combined with values like high performance and durability, makes Japanese watches accessible to a much broader audience.

Don’t let all the talk of affordability fool you into thinking that Japanese watches aren’t good quality, however. Brands like Grand Seiko and Credor represent the corners of the industry associated with emerging luxury. These names and their innovative designs give audiences looking for something a little more indulgent and refined an array of high-end options to peruse. Credor, for example, produces its own in-house movements, while the finish of a Grand Seiko case can be picked out for its meticulous Zaratsu polish.

In Summary, Japanese watches offer the collector much more than just a cheap quartz watch. You can still find some absolute steals on the market, outfitted with superior movements and boasting designs that don’t feel mass-produced. Add quality materials, in-house movement production, and a wide range of styles to this mix, and it becomes easy to see why Japanese watches are such a highly attractive choice.

Best Japanese Watches

Now that we know what makes a Japanese watch so appealing, let’s take a look at some of the best designs on the market right now and the manufacturers behind them.

Casio

Chances are, your first watch was a Casio. The brand is by far one of the largest and most prominent names across the Japanese watch industry and can lay claim to several seriously cool innovations, namely those from the G-Shock collection. The series stands for absolute toughness in a watch, many designs of which combine analogue features with digital technology.

Casio was founded in 1946 and began with a revolutionary release, named the Casiotron, powered by a quartz movement. Unsurprisingly, the watch took off, spurring Casio to make varied models equipped with many different styles and functions. As mentioned, Casio is most prominently represented by its G-Shock collection today. The brand has evolved this collection vastly since the 1980s, many models of which have grown to become cultural icons.

Our Favourite Casio Watch: The Casio G-Shock DW5600

The Casio G-Shock DW5600 is one of the brand’s most well-known G-Shock watches. In fact, it has become somewhat of an icon and is so appealing because of its rugged architecture and its digital features. It takes on the classical square design and is reminiscent of the very first G-Shock watch (the DW 5000C).

G-Shock watches were born out of a vision shared by Casio watch designer and engineer Kikuo Ibe, who accidentally dropped his watch, irreversibly damaging it. As a result, he formed a team of experts named “Team Tough” and formed the project “Triple 10”. The mission was to develop an unbreakable watch that could withstand water depths of 10 bar, heights of 10 meters, and offer a battery power of 10 years.

The DW 5000C was the first official watch to follow a total of 200 prototypes. It featured a hollow core guard structure to suspend the internal module within it. Since then, many designs have followed, including ones made from resin, steel, and carbon fibre. The Casio G-Shock DW-5600 has earned somewhat of a cult-like following since its release two years after the inaugural first G-Shock watch and is still part of the brand’s current collection. It has been the watch of choice for many an athlete, adventurer, and casual wearer thanks to its wide range of versatile features.

Above all, the G-Shock DW-5600 is respected for its shock resistance technology, which lies at the core of every watch from this collection. Casio pairs this with a water resistance of 200 meters and equips it with a digital display with an LCD display for improved visibility during the night (or when caught in low light).

The DW-5600 is not as feature-packed as some G-Shock models in the brand’s lineup, but it does feature all the basics required for the outdoorsy type. These features include a 1/100th of a second chronograph with a 24-hour timer, a multi-function alarm, a calendar that is accurate up to the year 2099, the option to switch between a 12 and 24-hour format, and a flash alert feature for things like the alarm, the timer feature, and the hourly signal.

Aside from the module being an affordable and highly robust digital watch, it has bags of retro appeal and promises a long battery life.

Citizen

Citizen was only officially named Citizen after a group of Japanese and Swiss investors founded it. The company began mass producing quartz watches during the 1970s before taking the quartz technology further in 1976 with the release of the world’s first ever solar-powered watch. This innovative milestone paved the way for the brand’s famous Eco-Drive Technology, which now powers many of Citizen’s current watches.

Citizen is predominantly known for its use of quartz-powered technology. This concept was spearheaded further with the launch of the Eco Drive Calibre 0100 in 2019, which the brand claims is the most accurate watch ever made. Able to keep time to an accuracy of +/- 1 second per year, the innovation is one of the brand’s proudest to date.

If you’ve ever purchased a watch powered by a Miyota movement, Citizen is also behind this name. The brand produces and supplies movements to other third-party watch companies through its movement manufacture, Miyota. Calibres like the 8215 and 9016 are just as respectable and famous as the most well-used ETA movements like the ETA-2824 or the Sellita SW200. Citizen also acquired Bulova in 2007 and purchased movement maker La Joux Perret, as well as Arnold & Son, in 2012.

Our Favourite Citizen Watch: Citizen Promaster Navihawk A. T

The Citizen Promaster Navihawk A.T. had to make it to our list of top Japanese watches because it offers practically everything you need in a modern pilot’s watch. Those who aren’t keen on the classic look of the analogue pilot’s watch may find the sophisticated features and distinctive aviation-inspired design a particular draw in this watch.

The model is powered by the brand’s Eco-Drive solar-powered technology, converting any light source into hours of power and eliminating the need for any battery changes. On top of this, the Citizen Promaster Navihawk A. T watch has atomic timing (abbreviated to A. T in its name). This core value proves invaluable in terms of accuracy, synchronising with various atomic clocks all over the world via radio signals. Often, there is only an error margin of around one second in 100,000 years! It’s an unfathomable level of accuracy, enabling the watch to adjust and update the time and date overnight so that daytime performance is not affected.

The Citizen Promaster Navihawk A.T. watch has a rotating navigational bezel that can assist with sophisticated tasks like calculating fuel consumption, speed, and distance. A perpetual calendar and world time function also serve to ensure you stay as organised and as punctual as possible whilst navigating the rigours of daily life. This 200m water-resistant watch is leveraged by quality materials, too. It features a sapphire crystal glass front, a robust steel construction, and though the dial is busy, it certainly delivers on that all-important “cockpit instrument” aesthetic.

Credor

Credor is a Japanese watch brand that stands out for several reasons. It has its very own micro artist studio where its high-end “Masterpieces Collection” watches are crafted. It is home to some of the world’s most talented watchmakers and artisans. Philippe Dufour’s influence over these artisans was paramount during the company’s training. His level of knowledge and skill has impacted the many finishing techniques of a high-end Credor watch.

To own a Japanese watch with a high level of hand finishing is a rather unique and special thing, since many Japanese watch brands mass-produce timepieces. Frequently, a Credor watch will boast a design inspired by traditional Japanese art. Maki-e lacquer work, for example, is present in some dials. This is where watchmakers at the company’s design studies use a sprinkling of gold powder upon a wet urushi lacquered dial, creating an intricate design.

Credor also differentiates its watches by using precision tools and unique materials like Raden, a thinly sliced piece of abalone shell used for the dial, and the brand’s porcelain dials that require a painstaking process to bring them up to a finishing standard.

Since Credor is part of Seiko, it can utilise the brand’s Spring Drive technology. It sits above Grand Seiko – known for its grandeur and hand-applied techniques. Credor, on the other hand, is revered for its Japanese artistic craftsmanship and operates on a different level as a distinct brand with a different philosophy.

Our Favourite Credor Watch – Eichi II

The Eichi II gives the impression of an incredibly simple watch, though its execution is a blend of artistry and complexity. The watch is produced in the brand’s Micro Artist studio in Shiojiri. It is fitted with the Spring Drive Calibre 7R14, exceeding COSC standards and boasting a distinctive speeding seconds hand. A clever innovation within this movement is its Torque Return System, which reclaims excess energy and uses it for rewinding the mainspring.

It has a porcelain dial, however, which has to be its most striking feature. The Credor Eichi II is usually made from platinum and features either a striking bright white or a deep blue ”ruri” dial colour, imparting the time with elegantly hand-painted hour markers applied by a master Credor artisan.

The company also adds its own meticulous finishes to its movements, adorning elements of the Spring Drive engine with Zaratsu polishing techniques and hairline finishes, while the open-worked barrel is crafted into the shape of a bellflower.

Seiko

Seiko can be broken into several subcategories, but for the purposes of keeping this guide simple, we’ll look at the brand as a whole. The brand was founded in 1881 and began as a small workshop repairing and selling watches and clocks, but soon grew into an industry giant.

More specifically, the 1960s became an important era for Seiko. During this time, the brand gained international recognition for performing beyond expectations compared to some Swiss manufacturers, and also birthed its first dive watch. In 1969, Seiko became one of the first brands to develop the automatic chronograph. It also launched the first quartz watch – the Aston, changing the timekeeping landscape forever.

Seiko is a vertically integrated watch manufacturer, offering a broad range of dress watches, sports watches, and solar-powered models that promise value for money. It also innovated the famous Spring Drive movement mentioned earlier – a hybrid electro-mechanical movement with a mechanical gear train and electro regulator. Such features give the watch its instantly recognisable gliding seconds hand.

Our Favourite Seiko Watch – the 5KX SRPD51

It was always going to be tough to pick out any single watch from Seiko’s catalogue and call it the ultimate Seiko watch of all time. But the Seiko 5KX SRPD51 is a good contender, as it seems to offer practically everything you need in a daily beater, plus it trades the no-nonsense dive watch aesthetics for something a little more “everyday” and versatile-looking.

The 42.5mm diameter of the case is a familiar size for a Seiko watch and has been crafted from stainless steel with a 100M water resistance. This is a solid companion but also features the exhibition caseback, giving the wristwatch a more refined feel and enabling you to admire the movement as it performs through the rear of the watch. In fact, the movement itself is an updated module, which allows for manual winding and hacking, unlike the former SKX models.

Seiko also offers a load of dial colours for this model, so you won’t struggle to find something you like. But the reference SRPD51 is an excellent option, imparting time with a deep sporty blue dial. The Seiko SRPD51 took over from the SKX range back in 2019 but retains much of its beloved aesthetic. It sports a Hardlex crystal (Seiko’s own mineral crystal glass) and a recessed crown at 4 o’clock (carried over from the SKX line and designed to reduce the risk of snagging). The applied indexes are also primed for expert legibility, featuring Lumibrite surfaces to accompany a clear day-date feature.

Orient

Orient is a subsidiary of the Seiko Epson Corporation, along with the Seiko Watch Corporation, yet they both operate under completely different entities. The Japanese watchmaker as we know it today was launched in 1950 and, since then, has experienced great success with some of its highlight models – one of which is the Bambino.

This brand is a true in-house movement manufacturer. Instead of sourcing movement components from third parties, it builds them from the ground up, giving the brand incredible control over the quality of its designs and its impressive pricing. While the brand does offer some models in quartz versions, the majority of the company’s focus is on perfecting mechanical watches and offering that all-important “bang for your buck” factor. Some of the brand’s most popular models feature domed sapphires, giving them a notable vintage presence on the wrist. Others are bold in design or more premium, like the “Orient Star” range. With higher gear movements and a more refined finish, the more elite circles of collectors tend to appreciate these models for their Zaratsu-style case polishing and complex features.

Some of the most popular Orient watches are those that feature open heart complications, affording a view of the movement from the dial side of the watch, as well as models that feature a power reserve indicator. Orient even offers a multi-year calendar watch and has experienced most success with models such as the Mako, Ray, Kamasu, and Neptune models.

Our Favourite Orient Watch – Bambino 38mm

The Bambino has to make it onto our list of best Japanese watches. It is arguably the most iconic Orient watch of all, loved by watch enthusiasts of all ages and experiences. It has an alluring vintage charm, promising an appealing blend of affordability and solid mechanical performance.

Above all, it is the vintage aesthetics of Bambino that is the model’s primary draw. Its key features include a domed crystal, an in-house movement, and a domed dial. There are several variants of the line, too – each one slightly different. Aside from the hallmark feature of the domed crystal, the Bambino watch typically features dauphine-style hands, a date window, and minimal text on the dial to keep it in line with its clean and simple character.

The 38mm Bambino Orient is one of the most recent renditions of the Bambino, signifying the current trend for smaller wristwatches. The domed mineral crystal houses a white dial underneath its surface, with slenderly carved hands that are propelled around the display via a powerhorse movement – the Calibre F672, whose architecture is also put on show through an exhibition caseback.

I have to say, of all the Japanese watches out there, this has to be the best starter mechanical. Primarily worn as a dress watch, it still has the versatility of a Monday-to-Friday watch.

Conclusion

Japanese watch brands offer a compelling range of designs at all price points and levels of complexity. Whether you’re looking for something tradition-oriented or resolutely contemporary, Japan’s relentless pursuit of innovation has played host to some incredibly interesting and exciting brands, both old and new.

While the big five are most certainly Seiko, Casio, Orient, Citizen, and Credor, this list is by no means extensive. Continue to explore the world of Japanese watch brands and you are bound to unearth some more horological gems wedged between the more famous names within the industry, many of which focus on radical innovation, meticulous craftsmanship, and a unique design philosophy.

Watches, like cars, are differentiated by price. Luxury brands like Porsche, Mercedes, or BMW don’t typically offer what most of us consider to be “affordable” cars, and one look at the sticker on a Bentley or Lamborghini will let you know that prices can rise to astronomical figures.

That’s just as true in horology. Brands like Rolex, Omega, and Tudor command high prices, to be sure, but nothing in the range of Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, or Vacheron Constantin.

And with all the attention that’s rightly paid to these luxury watchmakers, you can feel left out in the cold if you don’t have at least four figures to spend on a watch.

But that needn’t be the case.

One of my favorite segments is the under-$500 segment, as there are truly wonderful, absolutely affordable watches to be found – even with complications like the chronograph.

What is a “chronograph?”

In its simplest terms, a chronograph is a watch with a stopwatch function. In practice, this means that you time the duration of events like a Sunday roast or a 50-yard sprint.

And if the bezel or dial is marked for a tachometer, you can use your watch to determine speed over a known distance, a useful feature in very specific situations.

Most people don’t really use their chronometers as stopwatches, though. Instead, they’re popular for their technical, sports-inspired look.

Let’s explore some of my favorite chronographs under $500.

Tissot PRC 200 43mm Ref.T114.417.11.057.00

Tissot is one of the few high-end Swiss watchmakers that doesn’t ignore the entry-level segment, and if you know where to look, it offers stunning deals for far less than you’d imagine.

Consider the PRC 200 43mm. The polished case and bezel frame a black dial marked with a tachymeter ring at the margin. Three sub-dials allow for precise time keeping via pushers above and below the crown.

The tachymeter is easily legible at an angle, a nod to real-world utility rather than simple fashion, and if you’re looking for a watch that really can be used as intended, this Tissot is a very good place to start.

And there’s style here, too, not just craftsmanship and careful design: the yellow second hand, fashioned into a “T,” as well as two yellow sub-dial hands add a pop of color that plays very well indeed with the dark dial.

This is a watch that will earn compliments on your wrist, and in terms of pure aesthetics, its winning combination of dial design, bracelet execution, and Tissolt quality allow it to punch well above its weight class in terms of price.

Tissot equips the PRC 200 with the ETA G10.212, a well-respected quartz movement that delivers excellent accuracy (within 10 seconds a month).

Battery life is excellent, and when power gets low, the PRC 200 will begin to tick away in four-second increments, letting you know it’s time to drop in to your local boutique.

This simple, reliable movement choice is a nod toward affordability that helps Tissot keep entry-level pricing from rising to eye-watering heights. Expect to pay $572 at full retail for the PRC 200.

Timex Marlin

Timex leans into mid-century racing with the sporty Marlin Chronograph Tachymeter. For enthusiasts who can’t get enough of vintage style, it’s an outstanding option with a funky, retro vibe that shares aesthetic cues with the TAG Heuer Carrera. 

In keeping with the standards set by vintage watches, Timex has chosen a domed acrylic crystal. That can decrease legibility at the edges – all domed acrylic crystals share this flaw – but in this case, it’s truly a feature and not a bug. 

For connoisseurs of the adrenaline-fueled speed obsession of the 1960s, it’s the look rather than the usability of the chronometer function that drives the appeal of this Marlin.

A flat crystal would break the illusion this watch seeks to create, and the play of light across that acrylic pairs beautifully with the “panda-style” dial design.

And while this watch is eminently affordable, it has good looks and charm that allow it to pass in the world of luxury, no-one the wiser.

A silver-tone dial with beautiful brushwork provides the backdrop for the chronometer’s three sub-dials. 60s-inspired hour markers at the 3, 9, and 12 complement this look, as does the date window between the 4 and 5.

Timex employs the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz hybrid movement in the Marlin Chronograph Tachymeter, and excellent accuracy, mechanical-style sweeping seconds, and hassle-free battery changes are what you can expect. 

Expect to pay just $239 for this watch, making it an exceptional bargain if you love its romantic, retro styling.

Yema Rallygraf Meca-Quartz II Reverse Panda Ref. YMHF1580-AA

Yema demonstrates time and time again that French horology is anything but content to rest on its laurels. And you can see in their Rallygraf Meca-Quartz II “Reverse Panda” how Yema looks to the future by referencing the past.

Many chronometers are styled to re-capture the excitement of mid-century racing. We’ve already seen that with the Marlin, and here, Yema thales that irresistible 60s vibe one step further.

A polished case houses a matte-black dial with cream margins and subdials that capture the racing watches that made rally racing possible. A super-legible tachymeter scale is printed on the black bezel, keeping the dial clean and clear.

Fat, luminous baton hands and hour markers make at-a-glance legibility excellent, and tasteful brand markings, script “Rallygraf,” dual checkered flags, and “France” grace the dial without leading to busyness.

As you’d expect for a racing watch, Yema supplies a rally-ready leather strap that looks as fast as a ‘67 Mini Cooper S.

Like the Timex, Yema has chosen the Seiko VK64 meca-quartz movement for the Rallygraf, making this watch as accurate as it is easy to service and maintain. Again, that’s a price-conscious move that puts this beautiful Yema within striking distance of most budgets.

Expect to pay just $369 for the Rallygraf Reverse Panda – it’s worth every penny.

Citizen Eco-Drive Brycen Chronograph Ref. CA0649-14E

Citizen isn’t just committed to satisfying price-conscious watch enthusiasts. Their innovative Eco-Drive, using light to power your watch with no battery changes, no winding, and no hassle is truly cutting-edge, and when combined with sharp design, results in a fantastic daily wearer.

This Brycen Chronograph is offered with a matte-black dial, a retro-style tachymeter bezel, and sub-dials that pop with orange highlights.

At 44mm, this watch may be a bit too large if you have smaller wrists, and it’s definitely eye-catching, drawing on the same racing-inspired aesthetics as many of the chronographs on my list today.

That said, it’s a bit more modern than Yema or Marlin to my eye, splitting the difference between mid-century cool and modern.

Citizen powers this watch with its Eco-Drive, specifically the Citizen Caliber B612. Charged by dial exposure to light – natural or artificial – it stores up to seven months of electricity, and in practice, running low isn’t realistic. It also provides exacting quartz accuracy, keeping time to within 15 seconds a month.

For hassle-free wear, daily time-telling, and more than a touch of swagger, the Citizen Brycen Chronograph simply can’t be beat for just $340.

Dan Henry 1962 “Evil Panda” 

Dan Henry’s watchmaking has been exciting enthusiasts for some time, and the brand’s love of updated-but-retro design is universally beloved. And among the most striking of Dan Henry’s collection is the 1962 “Evil Panda.”

A polished steel case frames a matte-black dial and modern tachymeter bezel. The dial is admirably clean: just a simple logo at the top, three white sub-dials, simple hour and minute hands, and a crimson second hand that adds a touch of daring pop.

Easily among the best-looking chronographs in this price range, if you’re not already familiar with Dan Henry, you should be! And for people with smaller wrists, the Evil Panda’s 39mm case is a perfect fit.

They team with Seiko to offer the VK63 meca-quartz movement in this watch, a time-tested power-plant that keeps time very well indeed while demanding only infrequent battery changes from you.

Expect solid quartz-grade accuracy, as well as remarkable shock resistance when compared with similarly priced automatics.

If real-world performance matters to you, specifically, accuracy, vibration tolerance, and instant legibility, the Evil Panda should get a second – and perhaps a third – look.

It’s rare at the entry level for a clean, clear dial to look so good, and the overall aesthetics of this watch threaten to unseat much more expensive competitors.

This timepiece retails for $280.

Vaer RS1 Rally Chronograph

It should come as no surprise that I’m a huge fan of Vaer watches, especially the RS1 Rally Chronograph. Vaer really leans into entry-level quality without skimping on visually-striking design.

Vaer’s case finishing matches perfectly with the RS1’s cream dial and TV-style sub-dials. ANd the added colors not only add visual interest, they improve legibility by creating eye-catching contrasts that are as practical as they are attractive.

Vaer has added a screw-down crown to the mix, as well bright luminous markings to the hands and dial, making the RS1 just about as easy to read at a glance as the Dan Henry Evil Panda.

And like many competitors in this segment, Vaer relies on the Seiko VK63 meca-quartz movement. As you’d expect, it functions very well indeed for a watch designed for the rigors of daily wear.

I probably wouldn’t wear a $5,000 chronograph to work and play without constantly worrying about what might happen to it. With the RS1 on my wrist, I’d never give my watch a second thought, except when someone compliments it!

The Vaer RS1 Rally Chronograph can be yours for $339.

Brew Retrograph Technicolor

The world runs on caffeine, and Brew is more than superficially connected to coffee. Their Retrograph Technicolor, inspired by the design hallmarks of espresso machines, brings function and form into well-balanced harmony.

Measuring 38 by 41.5 mm, its rectangular case contains a medium-blue dial with rounded square subdials and blue, yellow, and red highlights. Not only do these highlights improve at-a-glance legibility, they also allow you to time your espresso perfectly. 

How?

You’ll notice that the hour markers are set off with red and blue pips, while the seconds from 30 to 35 are marked in yellow.

That 30- to 35-second time span is ideal for extracting espresso from grounds with pressurized steam, helping you get the perfect dark, rich brew each morning.

A small touch, perhaps, but a real nod toward modern practicality, too.

The overall look of the Retrograph Technicolor is decidedly 70s, and it’s easy to appreciate its bold aesthetics and clean styling.

And – you guessed it – the Seiko VK63 is the beating heart of this chronograph, promising trouble-free reliability and little to no service necessary beyond battery changes.

Also available with a steel bracelet, the standard model retails for $375.

Conclusion

As you can see, the below $500 segment of chronograph watches couldn’t be richer with style, panache, and racing-inspired adrenaline. And it’s just as clear that while you can spend a lot more, you can also find a beautiful watch for far less than you might expect.

So while it’s certainly true that luxury watches can command top dollar, inexpensive watches are increasingly competitive, especially if you know where to look.

The history of the modern dive wristwatch began in 1953 with the release of the Rolex Submariner, the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms, and possibly the Zodiac Sea Wolf (though that one is still the subject of debate.)

In the years since, this area of watch collecting has become popular with water sports enthusiasts and “desk divers” alike.  Today it’s a crowded market – with a ton of options at virtually every price point imaginable. 

But there is real value at the cost-conscious end of the spectrum these days, and we thought we’d showcase some options that won’t break the bank but can still take a beating on your next trip to the beach.

Doxa Sub 300 Professional

When the DOXA Sub 300 was released in 1967, there was nothing else on the market quite like it.  Legibility and functionality were prioritized above all else, and it was conceived purely as a tool watch. 

The fact that it ended up looking super bad-ass was just the icing on the cake.  If Jacques Cousteau is wearing your watch, you know you’ve done something right.

Sold in dive shops, the Sub 300 stood out due to its orange dial – which was more easily read underwater than the ocean (see what I did there?) of black dial dive watches available from everyone else. 

Its 42.5 mm case, unidirectional bezel with naval decompression dive markings, and oversized hands with generous tritium lume further enhanced readability. 

Its revolutionary expandable bracelet that could fit over a wetsuit completed the package for a diver whose watch could literally be the difference between life and death.   

After several ownership changes, design pivots, peaks, and valleys, DOXA released a small, limited number of Sub 300 models for the brand’s 50^th anniversary in 2017 – all of which immediately sold out. 

But then to everyone’s surprise, they came back in 2020…with basically the same watch but without limited production. 

Produced in the same size as the original and with the obligatory 300 m of water resistance, it was an attractive option for those who missed out on the earlier release. 

This new model, however, did incorporate a chronometer-grade ETA 2824-2 movement, a dive bezel in meters rather than feet, and brighter lume. 

Available on a strap or “beads of rice” steel bracelet, this is the version still available today.  You’d be hard-pressed to find another true tool watch with this level of cache, tech, and history for under $2600.00.  

Casio G-Shock

When one thinks of the ultimate value proposition in the watch industry, the G-Shock by Casio usually enters the chat.  It’s the watch that many horology nerds use as their “beater,” and it’s easy to see why.

The G-Shock is absolutely chock full of technical goodies, and it’s basically indestructible.  And what’s more – there are almost countless models to pick from.  Different cases, materials, finishes, sizes, functions – the world is literally your oyster.  While you’re actually harvesting oysters – if that’s your thing. 

The story goes that in 1981, Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe bumped into a pedestrian and his mechanical watch fell off his wrist and shattered. 

Soon after, Kikuo assembled a group at Casio nicknamed “Team Tough” with the goal of creating a watch that would have “Triple 10” Resistance:  10 years of battery life, 10 bar water resistance, and could survive a fall of 10 meters. 

After nearly 200 prototypes, a dejected Kikuo wandered over to a playground and discovered that the center of a rubber ball doesn’t suffer central shocks during a bounce. 

The team then pivoted to develop a watch with this material and concept in mind, and in April of 1983, the first production G-Shock was born.  

Since then, this digital quartz model has continued to grow in popularity, technical prowess, and toughness. 

A commercial showing a G-Shock being used as a hockey puck (with subsequent proof it wasn’t faked) helped drive the watch’s popularity in the 1990’s, with Casio releasing more than 200 different models and selling 19 million pieces by 1998. 

Videos of G-Shocks being rolled over by tanks and heavy trucks can be found with a simple Google search, and the list of functions you get are almost endless. The best part?  They’re nearly all under $500.00, with most under $400.00. 

Professional divers, the U.S. military, professional athletes – all can be found with a Casio G-Shock strapped to their wrist.  It is the definition of a watch you can put on and never have to worry about…at least not for 10 years. 

Hamilton

When people think of the history of American watchmaking, three companies come to mind:  Waltham, Hamilton, and Illinois (who were eventually bought by Hamilton. 

And while it still feels like watchmaking in the U.S. is a product of a bygone era, Hamilton has managed to survive as a brand due to its focus on value, functionality, and thoughtful design.

Founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania; Hamilton began as a pocket watch manufacturer – supplying pieces to railroad conductors, military men, pilots, and others who needed a supremely accurate timepiece as part of their kit. 

By the time World War II hit, Hamilton was manufacturing modern (non-conversion) wristwatches and between 1942 -1945, the company produced over one million watches and marine chronometers – earning an Army-Navy E award for excellence in manufacturing.

However, the 1950’s were to be Hamilton’s last decade as a fully U.S. manufacturer.  A joint venture in 1962 with Japanese maker Ricoh kicked off the quest for distant shores, and though that partnership failed, it was quickly followed by Hamilton acquiring Buren Watch Company of Switzerland in 1966. 

From the next 3 years, Hamilton and Buren were operated as a joint venture, but the writing was on the wall and in 1969, Hamilton fully moved its manufacturing operations to the Buren factory in Switzerland.  A sale to SSIH/Swatch group came in 1974, and that’s where the brand resides to this day.

Today’s Hamilton is laser focused on offering watches that punch well above their weight.  I personally know many folks who think the Khaki Field watch is one of the best deals going…and there are tons of options to pick from. 

For purposes of this article, we’ll focus on the Khaki Navy line, which is quite a nice group of divers.  The bronze automatic GMT in 43 mm has quite the wrist presence and will change color over time – which is pretty neat and makes me think of those old diving bells ala Jules Verne (an analogy further enhanced by its 300 m water resistance rating.)

That’s a solid package for under $1600.00 to be sure.  But, for just over half that price, consider the automatic Navy Scuba in 40 mm. 

You get the same level of power reserve (a whopping 80 hours), a stainless-steel case with bracelet, sapphire crystal, and 100 meters of water resistance…which is plenty for 99% of the population.

Laco Squad Amazonas 300 Meter Dive Watch 

Laco is a German brand celebrating its 100^th anniversary this year, and it’s a history worth honoring.  Laco is one of only 5 manufacturers to have produced the B-Uhren watch for German Luftwaffe pilots.  

Today, the brand excels at showcasing historically accurate aviator pieces from the 1940’s, but at a price point that is much easier on the wallet than a military-issued vintage example.  

But in addition to their pilot watches, Laco has branched out in recent years to create timepieces suited to a wider variety of environments. 

These watches are tough, include plenty of functionality, and like all the rest of the timepieces on this list, they are as at home in the water as they are on land.

One of my favorite examples from this group is the Squad Amazonas 39.  In this piece, easy readability and high function mixes with a fun presentation to create a statement that is a bit unique in this category. 

Colored superluminova matches the minute hand to other parts of the dial and bezel, while white matches the hour hand to the rest. 

It’s a unique, playful design that works visually while also enhancing usability.  A screw-down crown protected by crown guards helps finish things off, but the final “pop” (if you will) is the lollipop-style second hand, adding some vintage charm to this very contemporary piece.

While the scorpion insignia on the back indicates its adaptability in a variety of environments, this watch would be right at home in the ocean. 

300 meters of water resistance should satisfy both hobbyists and serious divers, and the Sellita SW 200 is dependable and easy to service.  To complete the dive look, go for the ruggedly attractive rubber strap option.  $1130.00

Nivada Grenchen 14131A01 Depthmaster Black Pumpkin

Founded in 1926 Grenchen, Switzerland, Nivada is a brand that moved with the times.  Formal manual wind timepieces in the 1930’s-1940’s gave way to automatic sports and dive watches in the 1950’s-1960’s. 

While never making an in-house movement, their watches were considered to be of high quality and offered a lot of value. 

Vintage Nivada’s can be found containing a variety of movements – from time-only ETA’s and A Schild’s, to Valjoux and Venus chronograph calibres…they even made alarm watches using both Vulcain and Phenix movements!  But when speaking of Nivada’s historical models, two stand out from the rest. 

The first is the Antarctic, made famous by Admiral Byrd in Operation Deep Freeze during the 1957/1958 International Geophysical Year.  The other is the Depthmaster, or what is known in watch nerd circles as the “Pac-Man” (due to the shape of the dial’s Arabic numerals.).

Launched in 1965, the Depthmaster was the first commercially available dive watch to have 1000 meters of water resistance. 

Nivada would in fact hold that record for 13 years until the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 16660 surpassed it in 1978.  Yes – this is a rare instance when Rolex was actually playing catch-up instead of setting the pace.

After succumbing to the “Quartz Crisis” of the 1970’s-1980’s, Nivada Grenchen was relaunched in 2018, with the first models rolling out in 2020. 

The new Pac-Man was released in 2021, and like the brand’s other recent releases, it’s a faithful rendition of the watch’s original design language, proportions, and feel. 

Measuring only 1 mm more than the original at 39 mm, the cushion-shaped case in brushed steel is quite comfortable on most wrists. 

Like the original, it features a strong, unidirectional bezel with a classic 60-minute diving scale – with the first 15 minutes being graduated.

Inside is a Sellita SW 200-1, which seems well in line with the company’s history (sure it could have been an ETA for historical accuracy but that feels like splitting hairs here.)

This is a rugged dive watch with a strong wrist presence despite its size.  For $1250.00, there’s a lot of details to love here. 

But why not take it all the way into the dive look and pick up the Black Pumpkin with orange dial?  It’s in stock, in a limited edition of 70 pieces, and just looks super-badass.  Note that this one comes with a Soprod P024 Caliber instead, levelling things up a bit.

Oris Divers 65

In our article on Best Casual Watches for Men, I called out one of Oris’ signature pieces – the Big Crown Date Pointer.  The other signature piece for the brand at the moment?  The Divers 65. 

Since its release in 2015, the brand has released over 50 different references of this model.  In other words, the Divers 65 is inextricably linked to the brand’s identity – one of thoughtful designs and high value propositions.

A mind-boggling number of dial colors, case constructions and sizes are available for the Divers 65, so it really comes down to personal taste.

Their 40 mm offerings feel like a good sweet for many, so in that arena I’d recommend the 65 Blue.  Available on either a strap or bracelet, you get an attractive, if slightly conventional look…but with a date function that I think is masterfully incorporated. 

The watch also features the Oris’ own 733 automatic movement (based on the Selita SW 200-1) and a very well-done version of “vintage-style lume.”  Offered at $2850.00 on bracelet and $2600.00 on strap, it’s a versatile piece that would be at home anywhere. 

As a bonus, the bracelet version is being offered with a free Scatola Del Tempo Viaggio 1 case (a $245.00 value), so if you want one of these, now is the time!

Squale

For the uninitiated, Squale may just be the most important dive watch company that you’ve never heard of. Formed in 1946 in Switzerland under the name von Buren SA, it was primarily known as a specialized case maker for other brands. 

In 1959, the company registered the Squale trademark (meaning “Shark” in French) – and decided it had remained in obscurity long enough. 

Their logo soon began to appear on dials alongside the major brands it manufactured cases for. Most notable of these was perhaps Blancpain, where Squale supplied cases for multiple versions of the Fifty Fathoms under a miltary contract.

Once the 1960’s rolled around, Squale started releasing watches fully under its own brand.  They featured robust cases with a unique water-resistant construction featuring a domed and armed (not “that” kind of armed) plexiglass crystal. 

This crystal was sealed from above using a rubber gasket and both a screw down bezel and moveable bezel.  In 1965, Italian freediver Enzo Maiorca set a world record of 67 meters while wearing a Squale Master.  You don’t get much more hardcore than that.

Squale was sold to the Maggi family in 1982 (the Italian distributors of the brand.) A couple of additional models followed before the Quartz Crisis forced the brand into hiatus until 2005, when the Maggi’s decided to relaunch it. 

Production of some of Squale’s most iconic models started up again, and in 2017, they became the official supplier of watches to the Italian State Police Divers Unit.  

Today’s Squale looks just as good as the vintage models, but with much improved tech.  There are many models and configurations to choose from and in fact, it’s difficult for me to recommend just one. 

However, the updated version of the Super Squale would be a solid choice…consider Sunray Grey dial on bracelet for a subtle, unique look and comfortable sizing at 38 mm.  For more of a head-turner, the 1521 Militare on a Milanese bracelet just looks damn cool. 

At 41 mm and with generous lume, it has an undeniable wrist presence…and the 4:00 crown position is a cool touch.

Both models feature the reliable SW200-1 automatic calibre and have plenty of water resistance (200 meters for the Super and 500 meters for the Militare.)  And at under $1200.00, it might even be worth adding both to your collection.

Unimatic U1 Classic

Founded in 2015, Unimatic is known for its minimalist design ethos and robust aesthetic.  Started by two Italian industrial designers, they started the company as a response to what they saw as a market filled with “over-designed” watches. 

Limited production runs are a hallmark of the brand (typically 1000 pieces or less) and they’ve collaborated with big names like Hodinkee and Massena LAB to create models with even more exclusivity.  In the Unimatic universe, form truly follows function – but in an attractive way (at least in my view.)  

Unimatic watches are available fitted with either quartz or automatic movements.  The former features at Seiko VH31 movement and the latter uses either a Sellita SW200-1 or a Seiko NH35A – depending on the model. 

Case sizes vary from 38 mm – 41 mm, and there’s quite the variety to pick from.  Prices are also super reasonable for this level of design.  For my money, the Unimatic U1 classic at $665.00 is hard to beat for an automatic with 1000 feet of water resistance.  

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf

I wrote about the history of the Zodiac Sea Wolf and its current iteration in a previous article on the best casual watches for men. 

It would then stand to reason that the Super Sea Wolf would make our list of accessible dive watches as well.  Released in 1953, 1957, or 1958 depending on who you talk to, the Sea Wolf had a major, and often underappreciated impact on horology.

The original Sea Wolf featured an A Schild automatic movement, a 35 mm stainless steel case, and a water resistance rating of 100 m.  What seems like basic design cues today were revolutionary back then. 

Dauphine hands, Arabic numerals, a rotating bezel, applied triangular markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9:00 – it’s easy to see why this design has largely carried through right up until today.  

The Super Sea Wolf Skin is likely closest to its original ancestor. The rectangular lumed markers, bezel, and dauphine hands remain, as does an automatic Swiss movement (STP 1-11). 

But upgrades include 200 m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and a predicted increase in size to a still reasonable 39 mm.  Readable in any environment and a value at $1295.00, this one makes a strong case for inclusion in your watch box.

All of these models offer a compelling package and would look equally cool on a reef snorkel or sitting at your desk.   Most watch folks would agree that every collection needs a dive watch, and any on this list would be worthy candidates for those not wanting to put a whale-sized blow hole in their budget.

The “Quartz Crisis” upended traditional watchmaking, forcing a transformation in the way mechanical watches were marketed.

Terrified by this simple, reliable, and relatively inexpensive tech, watchmakers chose to emphasize the careful engineering, hand-assembled craftsmanship, and miniaturized precision of mechanical movements, pitching them predominantly to men. 

Women, they thought, just weren’t as drawn to these aspects of timepieces, and they reasoned that the reliability and simplicity of quartz movements, paired with jewelry-inspired pop and flash, was a better approach.

That was and is as short-sighted as it is sexist.

Women aren’t any less engaged by careful design, elegant artistry, or mechanical precision than men, and the watch world is coming around to this realization. Today, women enjoy a wealth of mechanical options, ranging from the truly luxurious to the relatively affordable.

What is a mechanical watch? What does “automatic” mean?

The quartz revolution was spearheaded by the discovery that inducing tiny electrical impulses to quartz crystal resulted in precise vibrations that can be used to keep track of time. Eminently reliable, simple to manufacture, and remarkably durable, quartz technology really is pretty amazing.

By contrast, mechanical watches are driven by a spring that delivers power to a mechanism that’s entirely composed of miniaturized cogs and tiny parts that tick away at a known rate.

Instead of a battery, these watches are either manually wound or include a pendulum that winds the mainspring as it swings to and fro, powered entirely by the movement of your wrist.

Mechanical watches that are self-winding are called “automatic.” Some can also be hand-wound, but typically don’t need to be unless they’re unworn for more than 40 hours (or longer, depending on the exact specifications of the movement in question).

To achieve meaningful accuracy, precision, innovation, and craftsmanship are critical. And of course, those moving parts just beg for decoration in the hands of true artisans.

I’ve curated a short list of some of my favorite automatic watches for women. And while I assume that most women will have smaller wrists than men, meaning that these watches are appropriately sized for slender wrists and smaller hands, I don’t assume that every woman wants a diamond-encrusted jewelry piece.

Without further ado, let’s take a close look!

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface Ref. Q2608140

The Art Deco influence of Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso Classic Monoface lends it a timeless appeal, emphasizing clean, almost architectural lines. As popular with watch enthusiasts as it is with casual admirers, the Reverso Classic Monoface’s classic styling never looks out of date.

The silvered-gray dial features details like vertical brushing and a central rectangle that’s guillochéd to enhance its restrained elegance.

Paired with a striking bracelet that plays with the light, and it’s easy to see why the classic beauty of the Reverso has stood the test of time.

Jaeger LeCoultre equips this watch with an in-house Caliber 846/1 movement, a mechanical heart specifically designed for this ultra-slim watch.

And though only your dealer may ever see the inside of the case, the 846/1 has been modestly decorated with perlage, striping, and polished screws.

The Caliber 846/1 is hand wound rather than automatic, meaning that you’ll need to wind it regularly if it’s a daily wearer.

Personally, I find that charming: I find that I’m more connected to a manually-wound watch than I am to one that just ticks away on its own.

For women desirous of a dress watch that combines legendary horological provenance and classically elegant lines, the Reverso Classic Monoface is a perfect fit.

This watch retails for $8,750.

Longines Dolcevita Ref. l57574716

Longines’s Dolcevita shares aesthetic cues with the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso Classic Monoface, emphasizing clean, Art Deco lines and similarly restrained good looks. Avoiding the flashy and pretentious, it’s a watch for women who value sophistication and substance.

Elegance demands obedience to the rule that “less is more.” And the Dolcevita’s refined case design really highlights the flinqué texture of the dial.

Eye-catching without surrendering good taste, its Roman numerals and blue hands play beautifully with almost-architectural detailing. The result is a dial that’s classic, clean, and legible at a glance.

The stainless steel bracelet is similarly styled, avoiding ostentation while signalling reserve and taste – precisely what you want to be wearing in professional environments in which trust and confidence hinge on first impressions.

Slightly longer and more substantial than the Reverso Classic, the Dolcevita is an outstanding alternative for women with larger wrists or heavier frames.

Balancing case size can be tricky, and if typical women’s watches look too diminutive on you, take a close look at this Longines. 

It’s available in two sizes: one measuring 28.2mm x 47mm, and a smaller size measuring 27.7mm x 43.8. One will be sure to fit you like a glove.

Longines has chosen the Caliber L592 for this watch, basing it on the well-respected ETA A20.L01, and modifying parts like the rotor, adding decorations, and improving performance.

Keeping a mechanical movement svelte enough for a thin, elegant case is no easy task, and the L592 – despite its thin proportions – is quite capable, offering exceptional reliability and easy service, world-wide.

Affordably priced at $1,850, the Longines Dolcevita is a fantastic alternative to the Reverso Classic Monoface.

Omega De Ville Prestige Ref. 434.10.34.20.03.002

Omega is one of the most storied brands in horology, and the De Ville Prestige perfectly illustrates why. Simple, refined, and understated, it represents luxury that has nothing to prove.

Its elegantly proportioned case and bracelet are highly polished to catch and play with ambient light, and the deep stormy-blue dial with its sun-kissed vertical lines shifts to gray spending on the light, pairing effortlessly with the combination of Roman numerals, cabochon hour markers, and rhodium-plated hands.

Omega’s horological expertise is such that, despite the petit dimensions of this case, it’s equipped with the remarkable Omega 8800 movement, a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. In plain English, this indicates incredible accuracy and the very highest standards of precision, regulation, and engineering. 

Through the case back, you’ll see Omega’s signature Arabesque wave pattern, a subtle, subdued nod to refinement that exceeds mere mechanical function.

If you dress smartly at work, or need a stunning accessory to compliment your style, the De Ville Prestige is a perfect choice. Expect to pay $4,900 for this timepiece.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades

The trend toward increasingly casual fashion shows no sign of ending anytime soon, and a formal dress watch may be too much for too many. Enter the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades collection.

These watches share a 34mm case, matching bracelet, dial design, and movement, differing only in the color of the dial, case, and bracelet or the addition of diamonds to the bezel.

A wide range of stunning hues are available, each with a sun-brushed and lacquered dial. Expect options like Sea Blue, Shell Pink, Lagoon Green, Sandstone, and Lavender.

Stainless steel and 18k gold — both rose and yellow — expand your options. You can match the case to your jewelry, or add subtle contrast; the choice is yours.

As you’d expect from Omega, they’ve incorporated the capable 8800 Master Co-Axial Chronometer of the De Ville Prestige, offering uncompromising performance.

And given the sportier, more casual design of this timepiece, Omega protects this masterpiece of a movement with full 150-meter water resistance. 

In practice, this means that rain or shine, work or play, you needn’t worry that a quick dip in the pool or sudden shower will ruin your watch. To my mind, that makes this one of the best daily wearer watches on today’s list.

The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Shades collection starts at roughly $5,600.

Cartier Tank Ref. WGTA0011

First introduced in 1917, the Cartier Tank has secured its place in horological history one wrist at a time.

Cartier understands refinement and class: the Tank is designed with a rectangular 18k rose-gold case measuring just 33.7 mm x 25.5 mm, with a svelte profile of 6.6 mm.

If your wrists are delicate, and many watches seem overbearingly present there, the Tank will be a pleasantly diminutive surprise.

Exceptionally clean lines, Art Deco-inspired aesthetics, and details like a blue cabochon-topped crown provide pop without pomp.

Blue hour and minute hands carry this color over to the dial, where clean Roman numerals and “railroad” minute markers enhance its stylish legibility. 

Powered by Cartier’s Calibre 8971 MC, an upgraded and decorated Piaget 430P movement that’s slim enough for this elegant case, you can expect excellent time keeping.

This movement is uncomplicatedly dressy: no second hand or subdials, no date or day window to clutter its flawless dial.

It’s also manually wound rather than automatic, giving you the excuse you need to wind its stunning crown.

For tiny wrists and dressy occasions, Cartier’s mechanical Tank is exquisite perfection, retailing for $13,500.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 35mm Ref. T137.207.11.091.00

If sleek, sporty sophistication matches your style, Tissot’s PRX Powermatic 80 is an excellent choice.

Designed with an integrated bracelet that’s as understated as it is gorgeous, the PRX Powermatic 80’s clean case, smart details, and tapisserie-style textured green dial are instantly recognizable to enthusiasts.

Sharing aesthetic cues with Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, but to my eye remaining more restrained and self-confident, this Tissot demonstrates perfectly why sports watches are so universally popular.

Measuring 35mm, this watch is a perfect size for most women and a perfect companion for busy lives, outdoor games, and active vacations.

Tasteful luminous applique allows perfect legibility in low light, and the uncluttered dial delivers at-a-glance legibility when time counts.

Tissot delivers this watch with its Powermatic 80.111 movement, a heavily-modified ETA C07.111 that sips power from its mainspring.

Some pretty advanced technology results in roughly 80- hours of power reserve as well as surprisingly accuracy despite not being chronometer certified.

Expect to see subtle decoration on the rotor and bridges through the case back, and an overall feel that’s far more luxurious than you’d expect at this price point. 

This Tissot retails far below its competitors at $725.

Glashütte Original Lady Serenade Ref. 1-39-22-20-22-04

German horology is every bit on par with Swiss craftsmanship, and Glashütte’s Lady Serenade is in every respect a worthy competitor for names like Rolex, Tudor, and Omega.

Evening gowns and formal attire demand a watch that can blend seamlessly with your style, disappearing on your wrist so as not to draw attention away from your hair, your face, and your clothing. Indeed, an ideal timepiece for such occasions should balance impeccable taste and refinement with subtle luxury.

The Lady Serenade, especially in stainless, makes the most of its sunray-finished dial, and the addition of 52 brilliant-cut diamonds adds sparkle and shimmer where it matters most.

Roman numerals and simple hour markers are set off by the dark dial, offering a classically-stylish juxtaposition. Always on trend, Glashütte has designed this watch to be a foundational accessory that never goes out of fashion.

Inside, you’ll find the in-house Caliber 39‑22, a Glashütte original. Teutonic watchmakers prize rugged dependability as much as decorative finishing, and the three-quarters plate adds rigidity and durability that few luxury brands can match.

That, in itself, is remarkable, but the artisans at Glashütte add Rhodium plating, ribbing, perlage, polished screw heads, hand engraving, and a skeletonized, “double-G” rotor.

These embellishments aren’t typically available at this price, and it’s fair to say that among enthusiasts and experts, the Glashütte Original Lady Serenade is considered a remarkable buy.

Expect to pay roughly $11,600 for this watch.

Breguet Classique 8068

No more storied name exists in haute horologie than Breguet, than their Classique 8068 in yellow gold with diamonds is nothing less than a masterpiece of watchmaking.

Just 30mm in diameter and 7.7mm thick, the dimensions of the Classique 8068 are graceful, discreet, and feminine. Women with small wrists and delicate hands will find that this watch never threatens to overpower that delicacy, but rather enhances their beauty.

The mother-of-pearl dial is treated to a hand-guillochéd finish in the Clous-de-Paris style, with hobnail details near the bezel, setting off both the minute markers and Roman numerals.

These aren’t stamped or machined – these are hand-engraved by master artisans. The addition of 64 brilliant-cut diamonds and a blue cabochon to the crown add fire and catch the eye without surrendering to the gauche. 

The result is a watch that could grace the wrist of a queen.

Breguet’s movements are legendary, and the Caliber 537/3 is no exception. Exceptionally thin, it’s based on the Frédéric Piguet 1150, with additional refinements such as Geneva striping, anglage, and a gold rotor engraved with Breguet’s guilloché motif.

In contrast to many women’s watches that hew closely to jewelry, Breguet’s Classique 8068 represents high horology and the pinnacle of the watchmaking art.

This watch commands a price of $28,000.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time Ref. SRP839

A beautiful watch needn’t demand a second mortgage, and Seiko’s Cocktail Time offers a very affordable alternative to the watches I’ve been reviewing.

I own and wear a Cocktail Time of my own, and I’ve been nothing but impressed with its playful, sophisticated mid-century vibe.

The round, 38.5mm case should fit most women well, and that’s a classic size for a reason. The round, exquisitely polished case outlines a soft pink dial that has some of the most beautiful texturing you’ll see for under $1,000. 

In person, this watch dazzles, and the domed crystal – an intentional design choice – subtle bends light and creates mesmering color changes and patterns.

Simple hands and delicate hour markers provide legibility without clutter, and the polished stainless bracelet looks fantastic wherever and whatever you’re doing.

Seiko’s manufacturing is on par with Rolex, and though the Caliber 4R35 is no competitor for the Breguet 537/3 or Omega 8800, it is nevertheless a robust, reliable, and easily-serviced movement.

Automatic, though it can also be manually wound, I’ve found that the 4R35 can take whatever I dish out and then some, making this an excellent no-fuss daily wearer.

If smart casual is your go-to style, Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Time will meet you where you are for just $450.

Rolex Datejust 36

The final watch on my list today, Rolex’s Datejust 36, was introduced in 1940 as part of the brand’s celebration of its 40th year in watchmaking.

Now an icon that’s instantly recognizable, it’s available in a remarkable range of dial colors and with embellishment opportunities aplenty.

Rolex offers the Datejust 36 in a wide array of dynamic colors, ranging from silver and black to green, pink, and blue.

Each of these choices is sharply executed, offering a variety of dial textures, the inclusion of diamonds, fluted bezels, and other hallmarks of distinction.

The Datejust has set the standard of luxury for nearly a century now, and its refined and tasteful combinations never leave the dial cluttered.

Rolex equips the Datejust 36 with its in-house Caliber 3235, a Superlative Chronometer capable of split-second accuracy.

An automatic with exceptional power reserve, its quality and innovation embody what Rolex means in horological circles, namely, mechanical excellence.

Rolex guarantees accuracy within plus or minus two seconds daily, not something you’ll find common at any price.

Indeed, part of what makes Rolex special is this absolute mastery of precision craftsmanship, and while the mechanism is subtly decorated with sunray brushing, polished screw heads, and their signature crown motif, they’re not chasing Breguet’s expertise in hand-finished luxury.

Rather, it’s the mechanism itself that sets this brand apart, as well as its status as the standard against which all other luxury watches are judged.

This watch starts at roughly $8,319, but rare metals and precious stones increase the price quickly.

Conclusion

While the wrist watch was first invented for women, combining a bracelet and a timepiece in an innovation pioneered by Breguet, the Quartz Crisis pushed mechanical horology toward men. 

That was an error that’s slowly being corrected.

Why?

Delicate engineering and meticulous precision are things that everyone can appreciate, and whatever your taste in watches, whatever your personal style, one – or more – of the timepieces I’ve discussed today will be a perfect addition to your lifestyle.