Category: Watch Reviews

Even if you aren’t a fan of football, there’s a good chance you’ve heard the name Tom Brady before. Alongside his years of success are bound to come a few interests, one of which is high-quality timepieces.

Throughout his career, Tom has been seen sporting some pretty popular and equally unique watches on his wrist.

While his lineup has surely changed over time, there are several that are definitely worth mentioning. This article highlights several pieces that have historically stood out in the Tom Brady watch collection.

1. Rolex Daytona “John Player Special” (ref. 6241) 

Featuring a bold black dial and a manual movement you can truly appreciate, this Rolex Daytona really catches the eye. It’s crafted with a 14k yellow gold case, and I’m specifically a fan of the Jubilee bracelet and seamless folding clasp.

The case diameter is at 37mm, which is pretty modest, and part of why I feel it looks so form-fitting on Tom. More importantly, I find this specific watch unique as there are only about 300 of these on the market. It only makes it more valuable knowing this one landed on Tom’s wrist. 

The “John Player” name comes from a unique backstory as well. It stems from the black and gold Lotus F1 cars that John Player & Sons sponsored in the 70s. On a historical note, this particular watch caught the attention of many when it was worn by Tom during his Hall of Fame induction back in 2023. 

Considering its historical significance and rarity, this particular model tends to be auctioned for anywhere between $1,000,000 and $3,000,000. 

2. Patek Philippe Grand Complications Sky Moon Tourbillon (ref. 5002J-001)

This watch offers a bit of a bigger look with its 42.8mm case. However, I feel the overall design of the dial does a great job of compensating for some of this.

I say this because the general size is a bit off-putting to me, but the dial is so intriguing that I’d overlook that small detail. With four subdials and an overall beautiful design, the Sky Moon Tourbillon is a showpiece if you ask me.

It’ll easily become a topic of conversation, but I would say it’s a bit exuberant for everyday wear or a day in the office. It definitely embodies luxury, and the transparent caseback takes its beauty to a whole different level.

Aside from the time, you also get the day, month, leap year, and moon phases. I find the tourbillon functionality, as well as the minute repeater and perpetual calendar, to be a sight to see on their own. Of course, you can only imagine a timepiece as unique as this one to come at a hefty price.

Due to its history and current market status, the watch can be found on the resale market for roughly $1.2 to $1.6 million.

3. Patek Philippe ‘Jumbo’ Nautilus (ref. 3700/11J) 

A rare two-tone from Patek Philippe, the Jumbo Nautilus is one of the flashier items on this list. It’s a combination of stainless steel and 18k yellow gold. More impressively, this particular watch was crafted back in 1982, offering quite a bit of historical significance.

On the inside, you’re getting a caliber 28-255 C automatic movement. For those who aren’t already familiar with it, I like to point out that this includes 36 gorgeous jewels. Not to mention the popular Patek Gyromax balancing from the watchmaker.

Looking at this from the surface, it’s a 42mm watch face with a sharp black dial and a notable “ear” case design. I’d say this particular model does an excellent job of delivering traditional aesthetics while stepping into something different.

There are roughly only 200 of these in the world, and one being on Tom Brady’s wrist only makes it that much more valuable.

Depending on the retailer you work with, you can find this watch generally resting between $50,000 and $100,000 on the market.

4. Richard Mille Flyback Chronograph (ref. RM 72-01) 

On a few occasions, I’ve seen what looks to be a Richard Mille 72-01 on Tom Brady’s wrist from time to time. While he actually has swapped between several Richard Mille’s over time, this is one of his more neutral choices. I always have to appreciate neutrality, even when it comes to luxury.

The 72-01 from the watchmaker comes with their first in-house chronograph movement. Also referred to as the automatic winding lifestyle flyback chronograph, the watch dons a skeletonized design to truly appreciate the craftsmanship.

I honestly appreciate the functions indicators, as this includes hand-setting, winding, and date setting modes. On top of this, the case is tripartite, which also comes with ISO-standard rubbers and titanium screws. This is another point that tells me it feels durable on the wrist, yet remains lightweight.

The cost varies based on the specific RM 72-01 in question, but you can expect to find price points ranging from $250,000 to $400,000.

5. Cartier Crash (ref. CRWGCH0050)

Easily one of the most unique designs on this list; I can tell Tom was looking for something different with this one. The Cartier Crash is widely popular due to its unconventional design, as the watch case offers a warped and wavy aesthetic.

The case itself is platinum, which I always feel like offers the best contrast to a black strap. With the dial, you’re getting classic Roman numerals, as well as mechanical movement and sapphire crystal glass. If I’m being honest, I have to say a lot of the value in this watch is purely in the design.

While I generally prefer timepieces that offer more functionality, this one is meant to impress the eye. It easily does so, and I think it does a great job of accomplishing this without going over the top in its mechanical and material choices.

As far as the price is concerned, this watch has been seen on the resale market, ranging from roughly $150,000 to $450,000, depending on the specific model.

6. Rolex GMT-Master II “Bruce Wayne” (ref. 126710GRNR)

Coined as a stainless steel dual-time wristwatch, you can only wonder why someone would want a watch with Bruce Wayne in the name. Aside from that, the watch quality definitely speaks for itself. Featuring an Oyster bracelet and a reasonable 40mm case, I feel this watch found a great middle ground in its design.

The dial comes in a deep black colorway, and the reliability of their 3285 automatic movement. I get a pretty big kick out of its 31 jewels, and the sturdy look out of the screw down caseback.

What acts as a big selling point for me is the addition of the Rolex proprietary two-tone ceramic bezel. It isn’t the color that’s impressive to me; it’s the way the colors blend together for a more cohesive look.

If you’re interested in finding one for yourself, this GMT-Master II from Rolex can be commonly found between $18,500 and $19,500 for the most part.

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Grande Complication (ref. 26341ST.OO.1105ST.01

There are several looks within the Royal Oak lineup, and it seems Tom Brady opted for the sleek stainless steel. Keep in mind that there are only two of these in the entire world, which says a lot about their rarity.

It’s rather bold with a 44mm case, and not only is it accompanied by a sapphire crystal, but it’s glareproof as well. The same goes for the caseback, and it comes with stainless steel crown and pushpieces to match.

As a whole, the watch is only 15mm thick and comes with a modest water resistance of 20 meters. The transparent sapphire dial is what I can’t take my eyes off of. Moreover, the dial and its design and features are the stars of the show if you ask me.

A pinnacle example of craftsmanship from Audemars Piguet, the cost is bound to come with quite a few factors involved.

From a marketplace perspective, the price point for this watch has ranged from $500,000 to upwards of $1,000,000.

8. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 116506)

An important part of their 50th anniversary with the Daytona line, Rolex dropped the Cosmograph. Moreover, I found it interesting that it was their first Daytona, which was completely made from 950 platinum.

Even with my experience around watches, this was a poignant moment for watchmaking luxury that I’m not always used to.

With a quick look, you might miss a few details, like the deep brown on the Cerachrom ceramic tachymeter bezel. At first, I thought it was black, but this deep brown is an excellent contrast to the dial color.

The watch is powered by a Rolex Caliber 4130, which is an automatic chronograph movement. I might sound easily influenced, but it’s the icy blue dial that keeps catching my attention. It’s beautiful but not overly bold to wear, and it’s distracting from what you’re wearing.

Price points are going to vary based on the retailer, but the watch is commonly found available between $80,000 and $100,000.

9. Richard Mille “Baby Nadal” (ref. RM35-03 FQ) 

A little eccentric looking for my taste, it’s hard to argue with the stunning design of the Baby Nadal from Richard Mille. With a bold blue and white quartz TPT case, this watch looks as rugged as it is luxurious.

From a technical viewpoint, it’s a skeletonized automatic wristwatch. Richard Mille isn’t foreign to this design by any means, but it’s unique, to say the least. I personally love the fact that you can get an even more detailed view of the inner workings through the exhibition caseback.

It’s definitely on the larger side with 50 x 43mm case dimensions, but there are plenty of high-end features to make up for it. The movement is an RMAL2 caliber featuring 38 jewels, and their innovation can be seen in its butterfly-style rotor.

This is a timepiece I could yap about all day, but that’s primarily because it’s out of my price range. In most cases, the market value for this watch spans between $300,000 and $500,000.

10. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘The Roast’ Flying Tourbillon (ref. 26730BC.ZZ.1320BC.99) 

For me, this is the watch I’d want to have in my own collection the most. The blend of a stellar salmon-colored dial with 18k white gold is pure art. Tom’s watch, in particular, is famously labeled “The Roast,” as he wore it during his Netflix special ‘The Roast of Tom Brady.’

Of course, this is only one small fact about its significance. The design of this watch will always be the star, in my opinion, and this can be appreciated on every level.

Tom’s version was even customized to feature his name as a part of the hour markers. This also includes a custom rotor engraved with Tom’s signature.

You don’t necessarily have to be a football fan to see the value in these small details. The bezel is laced with baguette diamonds, on top of a matching AP bracelet. Don’t forget that this watch, being a part of the Royal Oak line, heavily weighs into its overall value. 

Considering everything there is to appreciate about this watch, it’s understandable that its cost falls between $400,000 and $800,000.

Final Thoughts

If you dig far enough, it’ll start to seem like Tom Brady’s collection is never-ending. Between personal taste, endorsements, and years of being in the spotlight, he’s had his wrist draped in plenty of high-end timepieces.

For any of you taking inspiration from this list, it’s crucial to remember the importance of a reputable retailer like Exquisite Timepieces. It isn’t hard to find a luxury watch, but it can be challenging to find a reliable and authentic buying experience.

You can have many of the same gorgeous watches Tom Brady is known for if you practice due diligence with your research.

If I’m being honest, Italy is not the first country that comes to mind when I think of the best watchmaking brands. Switzerland, of course, is certainly number one. 

Japan, Germany, and France all quickly follow suit, with brands like Seiko, A. Lange & Söhne, and historical French watchmakers like Abraham-Louis Breguet. Even England has a storied history in watchmaking, with old makers like Thomas Mudge, John Harrison, and even the famous George Daniels.

Italy has some superb watchmakers, don’t get me wrong. Panerai has been killing it with some unique and stylish watches for a long time.

Unimatic and U-BOAT are lesser-known but enjoy serious cult followings. Even BVLGARI, which makes Swiss watches but is of Italian origin. But there are relatively few well-known brands.

It should come as no surprise, then, that when I started to research this article, I was absolutely blown away by what I found. There are dozens of superb Italian watch brands out there, all of which deserve far more attention than they now receive. 

As such, I’m certain that this article will surprise and thrill you, just as researching it did me. So let’s not wait any longer—here are the 15 best Italian brands on the market today!

Officine Panerai

Could we start anywhere with anyone other than the definitive Italian luxury watch brand? Panerai was founded all the way back in 1860, making it significantly older than many old Swiss brands today. 

Their most iconic watch, the Radiomir, was created in 1935—its name references the radium used to create its glowing dial, which made this dive watch highly legible and, as such, perfect for use by the Italian Royal Navy. 

It’s a testament to the power of Panerai’s designs and watchmaking skill that they’ve been making pieces that look basically like how they did in the 1930s for almost a century now and they continue to be popular—if you think about it, that’s an accomplishment only really enjoyed by the highest of watchmaking brands, like Rolex.

But another characteristic of another advanced watch brand is that they continue to push the bounds of mechanical watchmaking forward, and Panerai has done just that with exceptional watches like the eLux LAB-ID, which uses a mechanical generator to power LED lights to illuminate the watch. 

Panerai is making exceptional watches in a unique style—large, rounded cases, with sandwich dials and prominent numerals—just as they have been for decades, and all at shockingly acceptable prices considering the history of watchmaking prowess of this maison.

Gagà Laboratorio and Gagà Milano

Gagà Laboratorio is a new and smaller brand, but it’s one that I’ve had my eyes on for quite some time now. Their design, the Labormatic, is fresh and unique, with a remarkable fluidity and harmony in its dial and case. It comes in just two colorways, the Cinquania (a lovely jade green) and Bauhaus (monochromatic grayscale). 

However, I do have to admit that I haven’t been following as well with the elder sister brand of Laboratorio, Gagà Milano. Milano was founded by Ruben Tomella as an independent brand all the way back in 2004, so by now, Tomella has some serious experience in the market. 

You’d think, based on the names, that Laboratorio is more of a chance for Tomella to unleash his full creativity with concept pieces, but in actuality Gagà Milano has been making exceptionally eye-catching and stand-out watches for years now that continue to go wildly underappreciated, though they do hold slightly more to a classic styling.

Gagà, Tomella tells us, is an Italian word for a dandy. For me, that’s the exact right word to use to describe Tomella’s creations across both Gagà Milano and Gagà Laboratorio. Their watches are big, bold, bright, and beautiful. 

And to be honest, they could very easily have fallen into the unfortunate trap of trying to do too much and ending up looking like a novelty watch.

Yet such is the genius of Tomella’s design that the watches manage to present a coherent, attractive whole, which pushes the boundaries of elegance and charm, just like any dandy.

Unimatic

Unimatic should be a familiar name to patrons of this blog and Exquisite Timepieces, as they’ve been making exceptional, minimalistic tool watches that are far from unnoticed by the watch experts here. And for good reason! 

Their watches are affordable but stylish and with solid watchmaking chops, making for excellent entry-level pieces for the collector just getting started in the watch world as well as superb lightweight additions for the more experienced collector.

Many microbrands, I’ve found, struggle intensely with establishing a clear and unique design language. Most of their initial watches clearly reference some of the bigger players in the space—be it the Rolex Submariner for dive watches or the Omega Speedmaster for chronographs, there are usually clear cues you can find at a glance. 

With Unimatic, you really get a taste of clear, fresh, and original design that exudes power and durability. Sure, it’s not always the most useful—the rotating “dive bezel” on their U1 Classic has almost no markings at all—but it is becoming an icon in its own right. Definitely a brand to keep your eye on, and worth snapping up one of their pieces if it speaks to you!

Giuliano Mazzuoli

Watchmaking runs deep in the Mazzuoli family—his ancestors, all the way back in 1833 (that beats out Panerai, but who’s counting?), were making tower clocks, and Giuliano Mazzuoli started his own journey 20 years ago in 2005 with the creation of his Manometro. 

Like Unimatic, Signore Mazzuoli has established a clear and unique design language faintly reminiscent of vintage Disco Volante watches. In this case, it was an old air pressure gauge that inspired him to this act of creation.

Among his collections, many of Mazzuoli’s pieces exude Italian charm, such as his Trasmissione Meccanica, which has a case that references Italian racing, and even more so his Carrara, crafted from the Carrara marble used to such acclaim by the finest of Italian sculptors. 

In particular, I’m quite in love with his Carrara Chronograph, which couples the smoothly polished marble with an elegant vintage-style chronograph. Let me be the first to assure you that these are unique and startling watches that deserve far more acclaim than that which they have received so far.

Venezianico

I’m gonna be honest with you guys. I think out of all the brands on this list that I’ve discovered while researching this article, I’m most excited about Venezianico. It’s hard not to be, honestly. Something about their design—I can’t put it into words, I’m afraid—is just… chef’s kiss.

You’ll have to excuse the slight fanboy moment I just had, but it’s been a while since I’ve had a watch inspire that level of excitement and admiration in me.

Pieces like their Nereide Aureo, Arsenale Ultrablack, and Nereide Acquaforte are just absolutely stunning. Now, to be fair, it’s clear that Venezianico is a design-first brand. 

Their watches are exceptional, but most run on a simple Miyota 9-series movement. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, as it’s a solid movement that is used by a lot of microbrands.

That said, they do have something quite exceptional in the works: the caliber V5000, the first Italian-made caliber. This is the kind of brand that’s aiming for nothing short of bringing Italian watchmaking into the limelight, and I’m here for it.

echo/neutra

echo/neutra is another one of those design-first brands that absolutely crushes it at making unique, eye-catching watches with their own strong and admirable style.

Like BVLGARI (more on them later!), they put Swiss Made on their dials, but that shouldn’t be seen as taking away from their Italian heart. Rather, echo/neutra couples Swiss watchmaking prowess with Italian design, and the result is nothing short of spectacular. 

Take, for example, their Rivanera Gray, a watch so good even Hodinkee said it was one of the best microbrand watches.

It riffs on a very clear and iconic watch style, the Cartier Tank, in a way that’s completely new and really only conjures up associations with Cartier under prolonged examination. It’s architectural in its facets, but astonishingly simple and clear in every other way. 

It’s ultra-light and ultra-thin. What does that mean for the watch? It creates a clear, coherently designed whole where every single part of it remains unobtrusive and yet beautifully crafted upon examination.

A quick search through their catalog, I guarantee, will produce nothing but many more pieces in this same style.

Breil

Breil is not like many of the other brands on this list. They’re not the most design-forward or the most serious watchmakers. What they are is perhaps the most fully-formed, top-of-the-line maison out of everything else here, barring only BVLGARI (they don’t count, they’re Swiss-made). 

Breil has everything, and does it all quite well to boot: men’s and women’s watches (most other brands here focus on men’s or unisex creations), jewelry, and even smartwatches. As they’re sure to tell you straight off in their History page, Breil is an avant-garde brand that’s not afraid to push the limits. 

In this case, there’s no need to question their claims: everything they offer is crafted exclusively from steel when it would be an easy and tempting matter for a jewelry house to make precious-metal watches to increase their appeal.

Their watches aren’t boundary-breaking or genre-defining, but they are darn good-looking, and it’s just about impossible to argue with the appeal of that.

D1 Milano

Say it with me this time, folks: here we’ve got yet another design-focused brand! I’m a huge fan of what D1 Milano brings to the table. I’ve had my eye on their iconic Polycarbon Sketch for a looooong time, and any day now I’ll pull the trigger. 

In any case, D1 Milano has a huge variety of designs, both entirely different models and a wide selection of colorways for each one. Thus, like Breil, they have one of the most comprehensive catalogs on this list, making it very easy to find something that appeals to you.

D1 Milano will also be the first to tell you they are not a watch retailer in the traditional sense of the term. Rather, they focus on materials and designs, and especially the interplay of colors. They’re here to break the rules, and I have nothing but respect for the way that they do it. 

Some brands, like Hublot, aim to push the boundaries with extremely expensive, ultra-high-end watches. Others, like D1 Milano, make that avant-garde watchmaking available to anyone at affordable prices. What’s not to love?

BVLGARI

The only Italian brand that could possibly compete with Panerai has to be, without a doubt, BVLGARI. In terms of their offerings, they even far surpass Panerai, showing expertise in jewelry and even in hospitality. 

BVLGARI was founded way back in 1884 in Rome as a jewelry house, and their first watches came as highly-jeweled dainty ladies’ watches.

One of BVLGARI’s most famous watch collections today, the Tubogas and its derivative the Serpenti, first appeared in the 1940s. It wasn’t until 1980, however, that they would establish a watchmaking department in its own right.

Masterpieces of watchmaking craft and design flesh out the modern BVLGARI catalog. The Octo Finissimo and Octo Roma, Bvlgari Bvlgari, and more are recognizable at a glance by anyone even mildly introduced to the world of watchmaking. 

Their work in jewelry and other métiers d’art is without doubt a tremendous fuel for their watchmaking, and the final product is truly a work of art, no matter the model or style of the piece.

Orologi Calamai

There are not a few brands out there that do one thing, and do it exceptionally well. Breitling does adventuring and pilot’s watches. A. Lange & Söhne does classy, “old-money” pieces. Calamai does plane turbine watches.

You heard that right. Every one of their watches is forged from the turbine of an F104 fighter jet that once flew in the Italian Air Force, just like the owner’s father, Giosuè Calamai. 

The founder and owner, Francesco, was inspired by his father’s life and sought to build something that will last. He’s done exactly that here, by imparting a history to each of the watches he crafts that goes beyond what most other normal watches have. 

And it’s not as if the appeal of these watches ends there. Calami offers a wide variety of options, with different complications and each with a striking sporty look.

But front and center for each one is its gorgeously finished case, crafted from the fine steel of an F104 Starfighter jet. Each watch is offered at a quite affordable mid-range price to boot. For history and military provenance, this is your go-to.

U-Boat

You can spot a U-Boat from a mile away. They feel about as big as the eponymous submarine on the wrist, and every part of the design serves only to accentuate that, thanks to the oversized dial relative to the rest of the body of the watch. 

Like Ressence, many of their watches are filled with oil to further emphasize the dial and make it legible from any angle. Interestingly, U-Boat takes this innovation a step further by also bathing the movement in oil, which supposedly helps with its lubrication as well. 

Say what you will about the enormous cases and pronounced dials of U-Boat’s creations, they are striking and recognizable at a glance, and not a few celebrities swear by them.

If you’re craving something countercultural to swim against the tide of modern watchmaking trends, look no further than U-Boat.

Gucci

Like many other fashion brands, Gucci has recently made such a concerted effort to improve its watchmaking division that it would be hard for me not to include it on this list.

They’ve got a huge catalog of well-designed watches for men and for women, all of which are clean and trendy without slipping into the domain of “Walmart watch” infamy. 

Perhaps most of note, however, is Gucci’s High Watchmaking collection, which cleanly surpasses all but Panerai and BVLGARI on the rest of this list.

This specialty department has constructed some absolutely spectacular timepieces, several of which have received a GPHG nomination—equivalent to an Oscar nomination in watchmaking. 

Their Gucci 25H Minute Repeater and G-Timeless Planetarium dazzle and amaze with superb clean design and watchmaking prowess that simply cannot be overlooked.

And even if you’re not in the market for a several-hundred-thousand-dollar timepiece, look no further than Gucci’s G-Flat collection, which is exquisitely designed and a well-respected watch in any collector’s eyes.

Officina del Tempo

Few other brands walk so perfectly the line between maximalism and minimalism. Indeed, many brands will structure their entire identity on one side or the other of the line: Jacob & Co is (in)famous for its maximalism, and NOMOS Glashütte excels at Bauhausian minimalism. Officina del Tempo does both, and does it spectacularly well. 

Almost every other collection they offer is one and then the other, seesawing from unobtrusive dress watches to spectacularly overengineered racing behemoths. 

This is completely Made-in-Italy watchmaking at perhaps its apogee, where almost every concept in horology finds expression in one of many watches that have been offered by the brand celebrating its 25th birthday this year.

Here, heritage is married to limitless contemporary design, and the product is nothing short of exceptional.

Anonimo

As I was exploring Anonimo a little more to prepare for this article, one thought kept coming back to my mind: this is the Italian Jacques Bianchi! Rest assured, I mean that in every way as a compliment, because I’m a huge fan of the French diving-focused microbrand and what they do. 

Anonimo has a very similar origin story and makes watches that are similar in concept, but certainly quite distinct in style, which lets these two brands marvelously coexist in the market today.

While Jacques Bianchi makes more classical watches, Anonimo loves to play with design in typical Italian fashion, making striking professional divers that are also just as comfortable out of the water as in it. 

You’ll want to take a particular look at their bronze pieces, which especially when diving will take on a lovely patina and age to a unique and tasteful sea green. Anonimo’s lovely and striking watches are anything but anonymous: their style and design will be recognized at a glance by those in the know.

Zannetti

For large watchmaking brands, a certain amount of the quality and price associated with their pieces comes from the name on the dial.

If we’re being honest, a Patek Philippe would be significantly cheaper under many other names—part of it is the heritage, doubtless, but the name carries a significant weight to it. Others make their way through sheer craftsmanship. 

Zannetti is a member of the latter camp, a name that carries little weight with most enthusiasts but whose craftsmanship can be easily appreciated by expert collectors at a glance.

Each piece, Zannetti proudly declares, is unique, and a dizzying array of métiers d’art are brought to bear across all their offerings for such a small independent brand. 

Zannetti is nothing short of one of the most exceptional producers of watches in the world and deserves infinitely more attention than it now receives.

Conclusion

Italy may not be the best-known country for horological advancement, but it’s clear that its true skill has gone completely unrecognized. 

From independent craftsmen like Zannetti to watchmaking powerhouses like BVLGARI, Italy provides something for even the most discerning collector, or beautiful watches that serve well as entry pieces for those just getting into the watch world. 

Each of these brands deserves your attention and appreciation—what are you waiting for?

If you were to ask me what one kind of watch you need in your collection, I’d say hands down, it’s a dress watch. Sure, they’re not going scuba diving with you or hiking up a mountain, but for everything else like travelling, meeting at the office, dinner out, weddings, first dates, they’re your best-dressed companion.

A good dress watch quietly exudes elegance, polish, and timeless style which is what most of us want from a watch most of the time.

But I know that for most of you, when you think of dress watches, you probably conjure up images of solid gold cases, moonphase complications, and a price tag with too many zeros.

But that doesn’t have to be the case. In fact, there are plenty of affordable dress watches out there in 2025 that bring serious style without breaking the bank.

What is a Dress Watch?

Simply put, a dress watch is the kind of watch you’d wear with a suit, dress or anything a little more elevated than jeans and a hoodie.

The name says it all: it’s meant to be worn when you’re “dressed up.” But please don’t let that box you in, because a good dress watch is versatile enough to elevate even your more casual fits. That’s coming from a watch collector sitting writing this article wearing a dress watch with sweats.

Traditionally, dress watches are slim, elegant, and minimal with clean dials, simple markers, often just stick indices or Roman numerals, and a refined case that easily slips under a cuff.

They’re usually on leather straps, although some modern versions rock metal bracelets and most avoid loud colors or oversized cases since subtlety is key – but of course, as with everything, are a few exceptions to that rule.

You won’t usually find chunky bezels, dive scales, or tons of complications here either. A date window is common, maybe small seconds, but overall, dress watches keep things understated. And that’s the point, because they’re about timeless elegance, not about being loud and over-the-top.

The Best Affordable Dress Watches

Now that we’ve covered what makes a great dress watch, let’s get into the fun part of finding one that fits your style and budget. Whether you’re after something classic, modern, minimalist, or with a hint of vintage charm, these are the best affordable dress watches you can get in 2025.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time

It seems only right to start with the watch I’m wearing as I write this, because not only is it my go-to dress watch for the everyday, it was also the first dress watch I ever added to my collection.

Inspired by Japan’s world-class cocktail culture, each model in the collection is named after a specific drink and designed to capture its essence with stunning dial textures and rich, vibrant colors that play beautifully in the light.

Originally created in collaboration with legendary Japanese bartender Ishigaki Shinobu, and later inspired by Hisashi Kishi of Tokyo’s Star Bar, these watches are all about capturing elegance and artistry in an accessible package.

Expect domed crystals, polished cases, and dials that look way more expensive than they are. They’re also powered by Seiko’s reliable in-house automatic movements making them one of the best valued modern dress watches of all time.

Prices start from $425

Tissot T-Classic Le Locle

The Tissot T-Classic Le Locle is a love letter to traditional Swiss watchmaking and a fitting tribute to Tissot’s birthplace in Le Locle, a town nestled in the Jura Mountains and steeped in horological heritage. This collection has become a go-to for those seeking timeless style with genuine Swiss pedigree.

Characterized by elegant Roman numerals, leaf-shaped hands, and a textured dial that adds just the right amount of flair, the Le Locle walks the line between classic and contemporary.

The case size sits comfortably at around 39mm, with a slim profile that tucks easily under a cuff. If I had to pick, I’d go for one of the Powermatic 80 models. With an 80 hour power reserve, you can set it down on Friday and it’ll still be ticking Monday morning.

Prices start from $650

Rado Coupole Classic

The Rado Coupole Classic is everything you’d want in a modern dress watch. It’s refined, reliable, and just that little bit different. Inspired by Rado’s designs from the 1960s, it blends vintage charm with the clean, contemporary lines the brand is known for.

Rado’s reputation for durable, high-quality materials carries through here. You get a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, polished case finishes, and beautifully detailed dials that shine without being flashy.

There are super affordable models with a Swiss quartz movement as well as some automatic variants boasting another impressive 80 hour power reserve.

Prices start from $1,300

Orient Bambino

This is another affordable dress watch I have in my collection, and while I don’t wear it as often as I probably should, the Orient Bambino still offers a fantastic value proposition and a genuinely beautiful design.

With its vintage-inspired domed crystal and clean, elegant dial, the Bambino nails that classic dress watch look. The white dial variant is especially sharp, but if that’s not your style, there are plenty of color and design variations across the different Bambino generations to choose from.

Inside, you’ll find Orient’s in-house F6724 automatic movement, which offers hacking seconds, hand-winding, and a 40-hour power reserve, all rare specs at this price.

Sure, the crystal is mineral rather than sapphire, but honestly, with the level of finish, charm, and mechanical quality here, it’s a trade-off I’ll happily take.

Baltic HMS 003 

Every now and then, a watch comes along that feels like it was designed by someone who really gets why so many of us collectors love vintage style, but also knows how to make it feel fresh.

That’s exactly the vibe with the Baltic HMS 003. It’s one of the most charming neo-vintage dress watches out there right now, and it nails the little details in a way that makes a big impact.

The 36.5mm stepped case, inspired by 1940s design, wears beautifully and catches the light with its mix of polished and brushed finishes.

The dial is where it really shines, though featuring a subtle mix of textures including a brushed railway minute track, a sector-style center, and sandblasted finishing that adds depth and contrast. Inside, the reliable Miyota 8315 automatic movement gives you a solid 60-hour power reserve.

Prices start at $385

Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase 37

This is another watch I’ve had plenty of hands-on time with, and while it’s a little on the thicker side for a dress watch, the rest of the design more than makes up for it.

The Christopher Ward C1 Moonphase 37 is genuinely beautiful, and there just aren’t many watches out there offering this level of detail and an oversized moonphase complication at this price point.

The standout here is the aventurine dial, which sparkles like a starry night sky thanks to tiny flecks of copper oxide. Sitting front and center is a large, luminous 3D moon crafted from Globolight, a sculpted ceramic-Super-LumiNova blend that glows brilliantly in the dark.

Powering it all is CW’s in-house JJ04 moonphase module, which tracks the actual lunar cycle with remarkable accuracy for 128 years. This really is British watchmaking at its finest, and a worthy challenger to those from the Swiss.

Prices start at $2,485

Raymond Weil Millesime

The Raymond Weil Millesime was one of my favourite dress watches of last year and a real surprise hit. It’s a sector dial dress watch that absolutely nails the details, from its slim 9.25mm profile to the brushed and polished finishes on the 39.5mm case.

Elegant without trying too hard, the Millesime brought some well-deserved attention back to RW as a serious player in the space.

This model follows the small seconds variant that won the GPHG Challenge Prize in 2023 and carries that same refined energy. I personally love the clean, complication-free dial layout with just a two-tone sector dial, minimalist branding, and a perfectly proportioned sword handset.

This year, Raymond Weil also added two smaller 35mm models to the lineup for those of us that like our dress watches even more compact.

Prices start from $1,890

Timex Marlin

I promise my watch collection isn’t made up entirely of affordable dress watches but the Timex Marlin is another I own, and it’s easily one of my favourites.

It hits that sweet spot of looking sharp without ever feeling too precious. Because it’s so affordable, I never hesitate to wear it out casually, but it still pulls its weight when I need something refined.

The collection channels the look and feel of 1960s wrist wear in the best way possible. Its compact proportions give it genuine vintage charm, and the hand-wound mechanical movement only adds to the nostalgia.

At under $200, it’s one of the most accessible mechanical watches out there and still manages to feel thoughtful and well-executed.

Prices start from $169

Frederique Constant Classics

The Frederique Constant Classics is another collection of dress watches that looks significantly more expensive than what the price tag reads. 

It’s a family that hits that rare balance of refinement, quality, and accessibility, making it a great choice for anyone wanting a proper mechanical dress watch spending too much.

What’s impressive is just how expansive the Classics line has become. From clean, minimal three-handers to more complicated models with moonphase or open-heart dials, there’s a wide variety of case sizes, dial colours, and strap options to suit nearly every taste.

Most of the models are powered by the FC-303 movement, based on the rock-solid Sellita SW200-1, so it’s not just about looks either, you get hacking, hand-winding, and a reliable 38-hour power reserve.

Prices start from $995

Tissot Gentleman

Another from Swiss watchmaker Tissot, the Gentleman is one of the most well-rounded watches you can find, and a perfect everyday piece that blends subtle elegance with practical versatility.

While it leans dressy, it doesn’t feel out of place in more casual settings, especially when paired with the stainless steel bracelet.

The standout feature here is the Powermatic 80 movement, offering a huge 80-hour power reserve and an anti-magnetic silicon balance spring, tech that’s rare at this price point.

At 40mm in diameter and just over 11mm thick, the Gentleman wears comfortably on most wrists and slips easily under a shirt cuff. The finishing is solid too, with polished and brushed surfaces adding depth to the classic design.

Prices start from $415

Longines Master Collection

The Longines Master Collection is a standout in the world of dress watches, combining timeless elegance with impressive craftsmanship at a reasonable price point.

Since its debut in 2005, this collection has beautifully captured Longines’ rich heritage and commitment to innovation. The dials, often adorned with a delicate guilloché pattern, adds subtle texture and refinement that speaks to the brand’s attention to detail.

And if you like the idea of having a dress watch with more than just a classic date window, the automatic winding timepieces often feature complications such as moonphase displays, chronographs, day-date windows, and even GMT functions which are rare for dress watches.

Prices start from $2,150

Oris Artelier S

Oris may be best known for its dive and pilot watches, but the Artelier S proves the brand is just as capable when it comes to refined, minimalist dress pieces. This model takes the classic Artelier formula and strips it back to its essentials, offering a clean, contemporary aesthetic that still feels timeless.

Housed in a 38mm polished stainless steel case with a pebble-like silhouette, it wears comfortably thanks to curved lugs and a modest 11mm thickness and that’s including the heavily domed sapphire crystal. The real star for me though is the dial.

It has a soft sunburst finish in understated tones of green or black that play subtly with the light and a sparse layout with just polished baton hands with lume, and a simple minute track. Inside, the Artelier S runs on Oris’ Calibre 733, based on the Sellita SW200-1.

Prices start from $2,200

Fears Brunswich 38

The Fears Brunswick 38 is one of the most elegant cushion-cased watches available today and a standout example of British watchmaking done right.

Inspired by a 1924 cushion-case model from the Fears archives, the Brunswick blends vintage charm with contemporary craftsmanship in a beautifully balanced 38mm stainless steel case.

Every curve is deliberate, from the softly brushed and polished surfaces to the rounded lugs that hug the wrist perfectly.

A personal favourite of mine is the Brunswick Copper Salmon, which features a warm, rich salmon-tone dial, a homage to Fears dials from the 1940s and 50s, accented with hand-applied numerals and crisp black printing.

It’s powered by a hand-wound ETA 7001 movement, visible through a sapphire caseback, and paired with either a handmade buffalo leather strap or a 5-link bracelet with a butterfly clasp.

Prices start from $4,200

Hamilton American Classic Boulton

With its elegant Art Deco lines and compact, curved rectangular case, the Hamilton Boulton is a near-perfect modern dress watch. Slim, refined, and thoughtfully detailed, it wears with ease under a cuff, thanks to its svelte 7.8mm thickness and modest 27mm by 31.6mm proportions.

The polished yellow gold PVD finish lends just the right level of vintage charm, contrasting beautifully with the crisp white dial and its combination of golden sword hands, printed numerals, and a snailed small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.

While most might associate Indiana Jones with rugged tool watches, this refined piece was in fact worn by Harrison Ford in Dial of Destiny. It’s an unexpected choice, but undeniably stylish and proof of Hamilton’s enduring presence in cinema.

Powered by a Swiss quartz movement and paired with a soft brown calfskin strap, the Boulton offers timeless elegance at an accessible price.

Prices start from $795

Bulova Hudson

Elegance and texture meet in the Bulova Hudson, a refined dress watch that punches well above its price point. With its entirely new case design, this model blends classic form with modern detail featuring a convex stainless steel case, soft contoured lugs, a domed sapphire crystal, and an onion-shaped crown that adds a subtle vintage flair.

The dial is where the Hudson truly stands apart. A rich interplay of textures culminates in a central basket weave motif, bordered by polished baton markers and bold Roman numerals at 6 and 12.

A date window at 3 o’clock adds daily practicality, while silver-tone hands maintain a minimalist elegance. Inside beats a 21-jewel automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve.

Prices start from $476

Farer Lethbridge Gold

As we mentioned in the introduction, many of us picture dress watches as slim, understated pieces clad in opulent gold cases. But when it comes to affordability, solid gold is rarely part of the equation.

That’s what makes the Lethbridge Gold from Farer so refreshing. It’s a watch that delivers the golden warmth and elegance of a traditional dress piece, without the prohibitive price tag.

A first for Farer, the yellow gold PVD coating of the Lethbridge case brings a refined richness to their signature cushion silhouette. Measuring 38.5mm across and just 10.5mm thick, the proportions are near-perfect for a modern dress watch, offering presence without bulk.

The PVD finish isn’t just for show either, it adds durability and resistance to tarnish, thanks to its titanium nitride base. The dial matches with a champagne-toned metallic surface divided by a raised satin ring.

Prices start from $1,145

Zodiac Olympos

Zodiac is a brand best known for bold divers like the Super Sea Wolf, but tucked in their portfolio is a dressier gem: the Olympos. Originally released in 1961, it stands out for its manta ray–shaped case, an asymmetric design that still feels futuristic today.

The polished sunburst dial, applied markers, and bold hands give it a refined yet distinctive character, far from the usual dress watch formula.

Add in sapphire crystal and an automatic movement and you’ve got yourself a standout dress watch that surprises with a price tag for less than $1,000. This is definitely one for those looking for something outside the round-case norm; it’s a refreshing alternative with serious vintage charm.

Prices start from $895

Junghans Max Bill Automatic

An affordable dress watch that’s currently on my wish list is the Junghans Max Bill Automatic. This German watchmaker has mastered the slim, minimalist dress watch, and truthfully, there are a number of beautiful dressy designs worth mentioning in their collections, but the Max Bill Automatic feels like the purest expression of their ethos.

Inspired by Bauhaus design principles, this watch keeps things incredibly clean with slim hands, unobtrusive Arabic numerals or baton markers, and a perfectly balanced time-only dial.

Typically found at 38mm wide and just 10mm tall, it glides easily under any cuff and works beautifully as a unisex option. Case finishes range from classic stainless steel to elegant gold plating, and each version is powered by the J800.1 automatic movement with 38 hours of power reserve.

Prices start from $1,590

Meistersinger Neo

As we mentioned earlier, not all dress watches need to be gold-clad classics. Some, like the MeisterSinger Neo, bring a fresh, artistic spin to refined simplicity.

Known for its single-hand display, the Neo embraces the idea of slowing down and viewing time through a different lens. It tells the time to the nearest five minutes, which, honestly, is precise enough for most of life.

The 36mm case is pebble-like and slim, slipping under a cuff with ease, while the sapphire crystal and 50 meter water resistance adds in some modern practicality.

Dial options include elegant ivory, deep sunburst blue, or more unconventional but tasteful pastel shades like powder blue or blush pink. All maintain the minimalist charm with a strong identity and the modified Sellita SW200 automatic movement.

Prices start from $1,330

Ball Trainmaster Eternity

Finally, American-Swiss watchmaker Ball is a brand that often flies under the radar and even when they don’t, they’re better known for rugged tool watches than refined dress pieces. But the Trainmaster Eternity deserves your attention.

The 39.5mm stainless steel case houses a beautifully brushed dial with an incredibly fine, almost hairline texture that reminds me of some of Grand Seiko’s famous finishing, but at a far more accessible price.

Housed within is Ball’s automatic RR1102 movement with day-date complication, protected by shock resistance up to 5,000Gs and anti-magnetism to 4,800 A/m.

It also boasts Ball’s famous tritium gas tubes on the dial’s markers, a technology that offers constant night visibility without needing a charge. It’s a rare and functional feature in dress watches, and subtly executed here.

Prices start from $2,199

Conclusion

Whether you prefer classic minimalism, vintage-inspired charm, or something more modern, there is an affordable dress watch for everyone in 2025. 

These timepieces show that you don’t have to spend a fortune to get beautiful design, reliable craftsmanship, and versatile wearability. With a variety of sizes, features, and finishes available, it’s easy to find a dress watch that truly fits your personality and occasions.

In the end, a great dress watch doesn’t need to cost a fortune, it just needs to combine timeless elegance with everyday practicality without over stretching your budget.

In the age of the smartphone, most of us don’t need a watch. 

And with the advent of quartz technology in 1969, the Seiko Astron debuted on Christmas Day that year – a real test for the watch industry emerged. If inexpensive, relatively simple quartz movements could keep exact time, why emphasize watch-making mastery, tiny gears, minute springs, and complex mechanical complications?

Once, these were the only way to make a watch that could, for instance, act as a stopwatch and keep track of the date. 

But with the digital technology of the 80s on full display in watches like the Casio G-Shock DW-5000C or the Seiko “Arnie” H558-5009, measuring time accurately was never easier, more user-friendly, or less mechanically complicated.

A period of soul-searching, experimentation, and adaptation followed in the 90s, and the horological world was forced to question the value – and future – of old technology: exacting, expensive, mechanical design.

I’m delighted to report that the answer was luxury.

What separates a style-less device that keeps track of the hours, minutes, and seconds of your day from a statement of aesthetics and sophisticated luxury, what makes a luxurious timepiece more than a “watch,” is a transcendence of simple time-telling.

And especially for gentlemen, a wrist watch is one of the few remaining accessories that allow personal expression in a professional environment. 

Let’s take a closer look at the icons of style, my picks for the top 10 most luxurious watch brands in the world today.

Rolex

Founded in 1905 as Wilsdorf and Davis, Rolex became the brand we now know by 1920 through a change in names and location.

Headquartered in Geneva since then, Rolex is the brand in horology, easily outselling its rivals year after year and decade after decade. And from horological innovations like the first waterproof watch to the Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanism, what Rolex unveiled, everyone else adopted.

High-mechanical precision, exquisite craftsmanship, and rugged sophistication define Rolex.  And thanks to screen legends like James Bond and icons of cool like Steve McQueen, models like the Submariner are immediately recognizable. 

Indeed, the right Rolex on your wrist is a marker of taste, a subtle hint that you know how to spend money on what counts, not on fads or gaudy displays of wealth.

Omega

Founded by Louis Brandt in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1848, and adopting the Omega name in 1984, this watch company has an enviable reputation in horology. 

Responsible for the moonwatch – the Omega Speedmaster worn by Neil Armstrong on his lunar mission – brand ambassadors like George Clooney or Daniel Craig demonstrate the timeless appeal of their designs.

In addition to the moonwatch, models like the Seamaster and Aqua Terra communicate effortless style, discerning taste, and concern for craftsmanship and quality that set Omega apart from fashion brands. 

An Omega says that you appreciate luxury, but are mature enough to avoid ostentation and self-restrained enough to draw a distinction between luxury and conspicuous consumption.

And while perpetually chasing Rolex’s market dominance, watch aficionados will agree that Omega plays second fiddle to no one.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe enjoys the distinction of being the oldest, family-owned Genevan watch manufacturer, connecting the latest innovations to horological tradition in an unbroken line. 

As much a maker of movements as watches simply, Patek Philippe is responsible for some of the world’s most complicated mechanical timepieces.

And while complexity and luxury aren’t synonyms in most cases, in horology, the attention to detail, meticulous design, and hand-worked movements behind the dial of a Patek are testaments to refined luxury. 

Stunning models like the 6159G and 5236P, as well as understatedly elegant options like the 5227G mark Patek Philippe, set it apart from the fold. And it’s not just that watch enthusiasts will recognize what you’re wearing; it’s that even people who don’t care about timepieces will find these designs eye-catching and sophisticated.

Breitling

The story of Breitling begins in 1884, in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, when Leon Breitling founded his watch company. Since then, the company has changed hands, and the Breitling name has become synonymous with refined aviator watches that pair mechanical precision with high style.

And from the Top Time to the Navitimer, horological cognoscenti can wax eloquent about the movements, quality, and craft behind the name. The former has graced the wrist of 007; the latter is a favorite choice of Dave Chappelle, John Travolta, and Charlize Theron. 

Elegant quality and impeccable attention to detail are the beating heart of Breitling’s designs, and whatever your particular tastes, you’ll find a model that reflects your self-expression.

IWC

IWC has a history nearly as complicated as its most impressive movements. Headquartered in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, IWC is legendary for its pilot-inspired watches like the Portugieser and Portofino.

Luxury, married to an impressive legacy of military pilots’ watches, means that you can expect a clean aesthetic that leans toward legibility. But if you think this means bare-bones, just check out the amazing Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 or its close relative, the IW501001.

Stunning mechanical precision, eye-catching designs that just ooze class: that’s what you can expect from IWC.

These sophisticated yet playful designs are favored by the likes of John Malkovich, Bradley Cooper, and Quentin Tarantino, as well as young talents such as Kyle Soller and Anthony Boyle.

Breguet

Unless you possess a deep familiarity with horology, you’re probably unfamiliar with Breguet. This French watchmaker, founded in 1775, is behind some of the most important innovations in wrist watch history, including its invention.

With that rich history, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Breguet could rest on its laurels. But far from it: constant innovation, an obsession with beauty, and award after award driven by current designs, not respect for tradition. 

To my eye, Breguet is impossible to beat for elegance, and catching a glimpse of a deep blue enamel dial tells me immediately that whoever’s wearing one is discerning and polished.

Breguet makes many watches; for me, there is only one: the Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel. Unrivalled in its elegance, and grounded in a history so deep that the design of its hour, minute, and second hands are called “Breguet” by the industry broadly, and you get a sense of how wearing this watch places you apart from the crowd.

Bonaparte, Victoria, Churchill, Bugatti, Rachmaninoff, and Dre: you’ll find these watches on the wrists of legends, not lackeys.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin, like Breguet, draws on a watchmaking history that traces all the way back to 1755. Revered – not just known – for their mechanical complications, Vacheron Constantin isn’t just a fashionable choice: it’s a knowledgeable decision that reflects a sense of taste beyond trends and fashion that’s anything but fast.

Models like the Overseas Dual Time or Chronograph, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and Historiques 222 in both gold and stainless steel have graced the wrists of Daniel Kaluuya, Brad Pitt, Steph Curry, and Alexander Skarsgard, among others.

Why? You can certainly spend more than you would on a Vacheron Constantin, and you could certainly choose a more popular brand. But then that’s not what sets those who wear these watches apart. Instead, it’s taste, refinement, and a real appetite for luxury that’s not out of reach for the rich, but rather a marker of quiet distinction, like Breguet.

Audemars Piguet

Founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875, and currently headquartered in Le Brassus, Switzerland, Audemars Piguet is another brand that’s not front and center precisely because its clientele is discerning.

Quincy Jones knew a few things about style and sophistication. Travis Scott is nothing less than cool, dropping the temperature several degrees just by walking into the room. And Serena Williams is no one’s marketing ploy or billboard. 

What unites them? Their love affair with the Royal Oak.

No one familiar with horology can mistake it for anything else than the flagship Audemars Piguet. Refined, effortlessly cool, and unmistakably “insider” luxury, the Royal Oak has been described as “Hollywood’s favorite watch.”

But don’t overlook the unforgettable Code 11.59. That’s the Audemars Piguet foremost in my mind, and for those searching for discreet luxury, this collection deserves attention.

Seiko, especially Grand Seiko

Seiko doesn’t normally make the cut when you think luxury, but that’s mostly because the company is better known for its affordable collections like the 5 Sports or Cocktail Time. I own and wear both – and if you haven’t taken a closer look at the dials and designs of the Cocktail Time, you might be in for a shock.

But here I want to single out the Grand Seiko, a Japanese expression of wearable elegance. Consider the Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Limited Edition, an impossibly sophisticated expression of taste, or the Grand Seiko SLGH007, sporting a wood-grain black dial that captures “the natural beauty of annual growth rings of cedar trees in Shizukuishi Shrine near Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi.”

True, it’s not a celebrity watch – at least not outside of Japan – but then, for some people, that’s a feature, not a bug. 

Why follow when you can lead?

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Last, but most certainly not least, I’d like to mention Jaeger-LeCoultre. 

Founded by Antoine LeCoultre in 1833, this Swiss company is as well known for its meticulously designed and crafted movements as it is for its timepieces. And with a history almost equal to Breguet – and that’s not something I say lightly – Jaeger-LeCoultre simply can’t be passed over when considering top luxury brands.

I’m not sure that there’s a watchmaker that offers so many beautiful timepieces, and you could probably pick one at random and fall in love immediately. But I’d recommend you take a close look at the Reverso, Polaris, and Master Control collections.

Jay-Z has been seduced by the Reverso, while Benedict Cumberbatch prefers the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel in white gold. And Timothee Chalemet can’t get enough of his 33mm Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Second.

Conclusion

Luxury isn’t just about how much you pay for something.

It’s about style, discernment, and value.

And while high-mechanical complications, rare metals, and diamonds can make any design expensive, they can’t replicate true luxury. That comes instead from a heady combination of history and innovation, substance married to style, and discernment and sophistication that eschews fast fashion.

Wear one of these watches for a day or two, and you’ll see exactly what I mean

Whether you’re a simple high school chemistry teacher or one of the biggest drug manufacturers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, there’s no reason why your wristwear should be lacking.

Walter White knew this, and throughout the show Breaking Bad, we saw him—and many other characters—wear numerous pieces that reflected this ideology. Today, we will be looking at some of the most iconic watches from the show Breaking Bad that make even the filthiest of drug dealers look sweet and stylish. 

Casio CA-53W

A simple Casio CA-53 is perfect symbolism for how we first see Walter White. At the show’s beginning, he is a highly overqualified, underpaid high school chemistry teacher. No doubt a true genius, but stuck in the poisonous loop that he’s been living in for the last 50 years.

He dresses in khakis and collared shirts and is seen wearing a simple Casio watch—more specifically, a calculator model from the 80s. The watch has a rectangular shape, a small screen at the top, and 8-digit calculator buttons below.

It displays the drastic simplicity that we feel when we first see Walter, but don’t worry, that meek demeanor first exhibited during season one will quickly evolve into something far flashier, and he will need a nicer watch to match. 

The Casio CA-53W costs $30

Tag Heuer Monaco

The Tag Heuer Monaco symbolizes Walter White’s dark shift from a mildly mannered chemistry teacher to a full-on drug lord. It stands out because of the unique square shape, the sharp colors, and the price tag that accompanies most Tag Heuer models of this caliber.

This watch is gifted to Walt during one of the last episodes of the show, when he has fully embodied his dark side and is now the most dangerous drug lord in the state.

Now that he finally fits the kind of persona that would rock an authentic Tag Heuer, this watch is meant to symbolize a drastic upgrade while serving as a dark omen of the disasters that will eventually take place.

The official watch that is seen in the show is the Tag Heuer caliber 12 ref. CAW2111.FC6183, a very similar design to the original Monaco.  

The TAG Heuer Monaco costs around 4- 5k.

Rolex Gold Datejust

Sleazy lawyer Saul Goodman rocks a gold Datejust to complete his flashy personality. Being a criminal lawyer has its perks, and it’s no mystery that Saul has accumulated a fabulous amount of wealth (though by very questionable means).

Of course, knowing Saul, the Datejust that we see in the show has a high possibility of being a fake, as it would fit his character perfectly for his golden beauty just to be another charade in his never-ending facade.

Nevertheless, anyone who calls Saul is greeted with the symbolic golden flash of the iconic Datejust model we all know and love. 

An authentic Rolex Gold Datejust costs around $14k. 

IWC Portugieser

The IWC Portugieser was seen being conservatively worn by the show’s most mysterious and terrifying villain, Gustavo Fring. Known for not being too flashy, the Portugieser was a perfect choice for the notorious “Chicken Man,” as Gus’s entire persona revolves around staying hidden in plain sight.

The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 is an automatic watch with a perpetual date, month, and leap year. Two subdials reside at the top and bottom of this piece, reinforcing the well-rounded symmetry that, once again, is very symbolic of Gus’s character.

You see, in the show, Gus is a perfectionist who goes to strenuous lengths to keep his operations running smoothly while keeping them invisible from the public eye. It is fitting that he should be sporting a watch as well-rounded and subtly detailed as he is. 

The IWC Portugeiser cost around $8k. 

Cartier Ronde Louis

Moving on to a piece that is not featured on the show, but still has strong ties to Breaking Bad, the Cartier Ronde Louis was given to actor Aaron Paul, who played Jesse. According to an article on The Gentleman’s Journal, AMC gifted him the watch after he won an Emmy for his performance on the show.

It was rumored to be a pink gold variant, which is priced at around $25,000. The large model is sized at 36mm with mechanical movement and a manual winding caliber 430 MC. The case is set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds and a beaded crown with a brilliant-cut diamond totaling 0.73 karats.

The apple-shaped hands come in blue steel, elegantly ticking around the thick, vintage-looking Roman numerals that breathe the iconic Cartier essence that so many fans have fallen in love with.

This is a beautiful piece, and it’s even more comforting to know that Aaron Paul received this as an award for his incredible performance that made the show what it is. He definitely deserved it. 

The Cartier Ronde Louis Costs $25k. 

Conclusion

Being a big fan of the show myself, going back and looking for particular timepieces mentioned and worn was very fascinating. I’m convinced that the show’s creators knew exactly what they were doing when assigning watches for each character to wear.

Each piece holds an extreme amount of symbolism that encapsulates who that character is, and how they govern themselves. The creators must have also known a lot about timepieces because the watches featured on the show are not your everyday wristwear.

Iconic watches are featured all through various media sources and TV shows, but nothing quite hits the same as Breaking Bad. After all, it is the highest-rated show of all time, and they didn’t earn that title by accident.

Every scene is crafted with so much character and detail, and it’s obvious that the same excellence is used when picking out the character’s wardrobe. The journey of Walter White is one for the ages, and for a fan of both timepieces and the show, it is pretty special that one of the most iconic symbols of his destructive path is reflected by his choice of wristwear.