Whether you’re a simple high school chemistry teacher or one of the biggest drug manufacturers in Albuquerque, New Mexico, there’s no reason why your wristwear should be lacking.
Walter White knew this, and throughout the show Breaking Bad, we saw him—and many other characters—wear numerous pieces that reflected this ideology. Today, we will be looking at some of the most iconic watches from the show Breaking Bad that make even the filthiest of drug dealers look sweet and stylish.
Casio CA-53W
A simple Casio CA-53 is perfect symbolism for how we first see Walter White. At the show’s beginning, he is a highly overqualified, underpaid high school chemistry teacher. No doubt a true genius, but stuck in the poisonous loop that he’s been living in for the last 50 years.
He dresses in khakis and collared shirts and is seen wearing a simple Casio watch—more specifically, a calculator model from the 80s. The watch has a rectangular shape, a small screen at the top, and 8-digit calculator buttons below.
It displays the drastic simplicity that we feel when we first see Walter, but don’t worry, that meek demeanor first exhibited during season one will quickly evolve into something far flashier, and he will need a nicer watch to match.
The Casio CA-53W costs $30
Tag Heuer Monaco
The Tag Heuer Monaco symbolizes Walter White’s dark shift from a mildly mannered chemistry teacher to a full-on drug lord. It stands out because of the unique square shape, the sharp colors, and the price tag that accompanies most Tag Heuer models of this caliber.
This watch is gifted to Walt during one of the last episodes of the show, when he has fully embodied his dark side and is now the most dangerous drug lord in the state.
Now that he finally fits the kind of persona that would rock an authentic Tag Heuer, this watch is meant to symbolize a drastic upgrade while serving as a dark omen of the disasters that will eventually take place.
The official watch that is seen in the show is the Tag Heuer caliber 12 ref. CAW2111.FC6183, a very similar design to the original Monaco.
The TAG Heuer Monaco costs around 4- 5k.
Rolex Gold Datejust
Sleazy lawyer Saul Goodman rocks a gold Datejust to complete his flashy personality. Being a criminal lawyer has its perks, and it’s no mystery that Saul has accumulated a fabulous amount of wealth (though by very questionable means).
Of course, knowing Saul, the Datejust that we see in the show has a high possibility of being a fake, as it would fit his character perfectly for his golden beauty just to be another charade in his never-ending facade.
Nevertheless, anyone who calls Saul is greeted with the symbolic golden flash of the iconic Datejust model we all know and love.
An authentic Rolex Gold Datejust costs around $14k.
IWC Portugieser
The IWC Portugieser was seen being conservatively worn by the show’s most mysterious and terrifying villain, Gustavo Fring. Known for not being too flashy, the Portugieser was a perfect choice for the notorious “Chicken Man,” as Gus’s entire persona revolves around staying hidden in plain sight.
The Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 is an automatic watch with a perpetual date, month, and leap year. Two subdials reside at the top and bottom of this piece, reinforcing the well-rounded symmetry that, once again, is very symbolic of Gus’s character.
You see, in the show, Gus is a perfectionist who goes to strenuous lengths to keep his operations running smoothly while keeping them invisible from the public eye. It is fitting that he should be sporting a watch as well-rounded and subtly detailed as he is.
The IWC Portugeiser cost around $8k.
Cartier Ronde Louis
Moving on to a piece that is not featured on the show, but still has strong ties to Breaking Bad, the Cartier Ronde Louis was given to actor Aaron Paul, who played Jesse. According to an article on The Gentleman’s Journal, AMC gifted him the watch after he won an Emmy for his performance on the show.
It was rumored to be a pink gold variant, which is priced at around $25,000. The large model is sized at 36mm with mechanical movement and a manual winding caliber 430 MC. The case is set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds and a beaded crown with a brilliant-cut diamond totaling 0.73 karats.
The apple-shaped hands come in blue steel, elegantly ticking around the thick, vintage-looking Roman numerals that breathe the iconic Cartier essence that so many fans have fallen in love with.
This is a beautiful piece, and it’s even more comforting to know that Aaron Paul received this as an award for his incredible performance that made the show what it is. He definitely deserved it.
The Cartier Ronde Louis Costs $25k.
Conclusion
Being a big fan of the show myself, going back and looking for particular timepieces mentioned and worn was very fascinating. I’m convinced that the show’s creators knew exactly what they were doing when assigning watches for each character to wear.
Each piece holds an extreme amount of symbolism that encapsulates who that character is, and how they govern themselves. The creators must have also known a lot about timepieces because the watches featured on the show are not your everyday wristwear.
Iconic watches are featured all through various media sources and TV shows, but nothing quite hits the same as Breaking Bad. After all, it is the highest-rated show of all time, and they didn’t earn that title by accident.
Every scene is crafted with so much character and detail, and it’s obvious that the same excellence is used when picking out the character’s wardrobe. The journey of Walter White is one for the ages, and for a fan of both timepieces and the show, it is pretty special that one of the most iconic symbols of his destructive path is reflected by his choice of wristwear.
John Mayer is known for many things; his Grammy-winning music, sharp wit, and a knack for reinventing himself. But in watch collecting circles, he’s something of a legend.
With a taste for the rare and refined, John Mayer’s watch collection stands out as one of the finest in the celebrity world. In fact, his influence runs so deep, there’s even a Rolex nicknamed after him… yes really.
Rolex Daytona 116508
One of the most iconic pieces in John Mayer’s collection, the Rolex Daytona 116508 has become so associated with him that it’s now widely nicknamed the “John Mayer Daytona.”
Featuring a stunning green sunburst dial and yellow gold case, it wasn’t an instant hit until Mayer called it his “sleeper” pick during a popular watch interview. That shoutout sent demand soaring. Mayer’s deep love for Daytonas is no secret, something you’ll realise the more we get down this list.
Among the flashiest and rarest Daytonas in John Mayer’s watch collection is the white gold Rainbow Daytona 116599RBOW. While most people recognize the rose gold version that’s much easier to obtain (if you have the money), the white gold edition is a little rarer and thus a serious collector’s gem.
With a bezel set in a full spectrum of baguette-cut sapphires and diamond-set lugs, it’s a bold, over-the-top statement that somehow still feels tasteful on Mayer’s wrist. He also owns the yellow gold variant, because of course he does.
PRICE: Approx $250,000
Rolex Daytona Panda 116500LN
When the Rolex Daytona 116500LN dropped in 2016, it caused a bit of chaos (because everyone wanted it) and John Mayer was one of the first to get his hands on it.
Nicknamed the “Panda” thanks to its crisp white dial and black subdials, this model introduced the ceramic Cerachrom bezel to a stainless steel Daytona for the first time. While most of us are still on the waitlist, Mayer made it look easy, again proving his deep ties to the watch world and his knack for spotting future icons early.
Before Bamford Watch Department shifted to customizing LVMH watches, they were the kings of bespoke Rolex mods and John Mayer got in early.
His custom Bamford Roelx Daytona features a sleek black PVD-coated case and a striking baby blue dial, giving the classic chrono a totally modern, almost futuristic twist. It’s a far cry from traditional Rolex styling, but that’s the point.
PRICE: Approx $40,000
Rolex Daytona 6263 Gold Paul Newman
Now we’re in true grail territory. John Mayer owns one of the rarest Daytonas ever made: the 18k yellow gold Rolex Daytona 6263 with a Paul Newman dial, commonly referred to as the “Lemon” due to its distinctive yellow dial tone.
Only a handful are known to exist, and one sold at auction for nearly $4 million. It’s vintage Rolex at its peak with its exotic dial, screw-down pushers, and insane rarity. Mayer has also been spotted wearing the steel version, showing his deep appreciation for this legendary reference.
PRICE: Approx $610,000
Rolex Day-Date Puzzle Dial
Easily one of the most talked-about releases of 2023, the Rolex Day-Date “Puzzle Dial”, also nicknamed the Emoji, is a bold departure from tradition, and of course, John Mayer had to have it.
With a colorful jigsaw enamel dial, emojis in the date window, and daily affirmations in place of weekdays, it’s playful, weird, and wildly un-Rolex. But that’s exactly what makes it so interesting. Mayer picked his model in white gold but it does also come in rose and yellow.
PRICE: Approx $300,000
Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi White Gold 116719BLRO
You might think John Mayer’s rocking the classic steel Pepsi GMT, but look closer. His is the 18k white gold version, Ref. 116719BLRO, released in 2014. This marked the return of the iconic red-and-blue bezel after a seven-year hiatus, and it was also the first time Rolex ever used white gold in the GMT lineup.
Heavier, flashier, and far more exclusive than the steel version, this Pepsi quietly flexes luxury while keeping the classic travel-watch vibe.
PRICE: Approx $45,000
Rolex GMT-Master II Batman 116710BLNR
John Mayer doesn’t just have one Rolex Batman, he has both generations. The original Ref. 116710BLNR on an Oyster bracelet was released in 2013 and became an instant fan favorite with its blue-and-black ceramic bezel.
Designed for travelers, it features a GMT hand for tracking multiple time zones which is perfect for a musician constantly hopping cities. Mayer’s been spotted wearing this one on tour, which makes total sense. It’s sporty, functional, and just plain cool. He also owns the newer version on a Jubilee bracelet.
PRICE: Approx $15,000
Rolex GMT-Master II 11570LN
Not every watch in Mayer’s collection is flashy or rare, some are just timeless. Take the Rolex GMT-Master II 116710LN for example. It has a classic black bezel, stainless steel case, and the rock-solid utility of a dual time zone display.
This was the first ceramic-bezel GMT in steel, and while it’s now discontinued, it still holds strong as a sleek, no-fuss travel watch. Mayer’s been spotted wearing it casually, proving that not every piece in his rotation has to scream for attention.
PRICE: Approx $10,000
Rolex Submariner Smurf 116619LB
Another standout Rolex in John Mayer’s watch collection is the Rolex Submariner Smurf 116619LB, a watch that blends luxury with sport. Released in 2008 to celebrate Rolex’s 100th anniversary, this was the first Submariner crafted in 18k white gold.
Its bright blue Cerachrom bezel and dial gave it the “Smurf” nickname, standing out from the more muted tones of traditional Submariners. While Mayer tends to gravitate toward GMTs, the Smurf holds a special place as the only Submariner in his lineup.
PRICE: Approx $46,000
Rolex Explorer II 1655 “Steve McQueen”
The Rolex Explorer II 1655, often called the “Steve McQueen” despite no photographic proof linking the actor to it, is one of Mayer’s more understated gems. Released in 1971, this rugged tool watch was originally aimed at cave explorers.
At first, it didn’t prove all that popular, but now, it’s a coveted vintage piece. Mayer was spotted wearing it at the 2010 Crossroads Festival, showing he appreciates its understated appeal. With its unique 24-hour dial and the classic orange hand, the 1655 has transformed into a cult favorite among collectors.
PRICE: Approx $35,000
Rolex Sea-Dweller ‘Pro Hunter’ 16600
One of the more intriguing pieces in Mayer’s collection is the Rolex Sea-Dweller 16600 “Pro Hunter,” a rugged, DLC-coated variation of the classic Sea-Dweller.
The “Pro Hunter” nickname comes from the customization by the Pro Hunter watch brand, known for its durable, matte black DLC coating that gives the stainless steel case and bezel a stealthy, tactical look.
Equipped with a black dial, date at 3 o’clock, and powered by an automatic movement, it’s also waterproof to an impressive 4,000 feet. Mayer was spotted wearing this model during the earlier days of his career while performing on stage.
Moving onto Patek Philippe, another brand John Mayer clearly has a love of, we’re starting with the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164A. With its dual-time zone function, the watch displays both local and home time, making it ideal for a globetrotter like Mayer.
Released as part of the Aquanaut family in 1997, this piece broke away from Patek’s classic designs, featuring an octagonal case and a unique tropical strap resistant to saltwater and UV rays. Crafted in steel with a 40.8mm diameter, the 5164A is not just functional but also stylish, boasting a sleek black dial with embossed numerals and a 45-hour power reserve.
PRICE: Approx $40,000
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A
John Mayer’s Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A is one of the rarest and most coveted pieces in his collection. Spotted in a September 2021 selfie, this stainless steel beauty features a sunburst olive green dial stamped by Tiffany & Co., making it a truly special find.
Retailing at $37,800, the watch now commands an eye-watering $700,000 on the secondary market. The 40.5mm Nautilus is known for its sleek porthole-inspired design and is the ultimate luxury sports watch, with some collectors waiting years for a chance to own one.
PRICE: Approx $38,000
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5270G
With a more dressy appeal, John Mayer’s Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5270G is a masterclass in horological complexity. This white gold beauty, which he wears on a matching gold bracelet, automatically adjusts for varying month lengths and leap years, a remarkable feat for any watch.
The 5270G’s dial features three sub-dials, one for the moon phase, one for seconds, and one for a 30-minute counter, along with a leap year and day/night indicator. This level of functionality comes at a price though…
PRICE: Approx $170,000
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3970EJ
Another one of Mayer’s vintage pieces is a stunning Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar in yellow gold. Released in 1986 and produced for roughly two decades, this watch features a 36mm case and an opaline velouté dial, offering both elegance and complexity.
The dial is once again adorned with a range of complications, including French day and month apertures at 12 o’clock, a moonphase at 6, a 30-minute counter, and a leap year indicator at 3 o’clock. Inside, the Calibre CH 27-70 Q movement stands as a testament to Patek’s legendary craftsmanship.
PRICE: Approx $120,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Titanium 26530TI
Like the Patek Phillipe Nautilus, the AP Royal Oak feels like something of a prerequisite for any serious watch collector. But the 26530TI isn’t your usual Royal Oak; it’s something quieter, more understated.
Made entirely of titanium, it feels incredibly light on the wrist and the dial skips the usual “Tapisserie” pattern and goes for a clean, sandblasted grey that catches the light in a really subtle way.
It’s also the first Royal Oak to feature a self winding flying tourbillon, which adds a nice touch of technical flex without screaming about it.
PRICE: Approx $250,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Gold 15550BA
When John Mayer wore this 37mm yellow gold Royal Oak with a turquoise dial on The Tonight Show, the whole world noticed, not just us watch obsessed lunatics. It’s because it’s a piece that’s loud and proud in all that it does.
The 18k yellow gold case and bracelet are already a bold statement, but paired with that vivid turquoise dial and it becomes full-on rockstar territory. AP only released a handful of these, and the turquoise stone dial (not just colored, but actual stone) gives each one a unique natural pattern.
PRICE: Approx $140,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ultra-Thin Rose Gold 15202
John Mayer’s love of watch history shines through once again in his choice to wear the 15202, Audemars Piguet’s legendary “Jumbo” Ultra-Thin.
This 39mm rose gold version, paired with a rich blue “Petite Tapisserie” dial, stays incredibly faithful to the original Royal Oak released in 1972. It’s sleek, elegant, and thin enough to slide under any cuff. Since AP discontinued the 15202, it’s become even more sought-after, especially in this precious metal configuration.
PRICE: Approx $190,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26579CB
White ceramic isn’t an easy case material to pull off, but as expected, John Mayer does it. The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 26579CB is one of the boldest pieces in his collection, crafted entirely from ultra-hard, hand-finished white ceramic.
It’s paired with a vivid blue Grande Tapisserie dial and silver-toned subdials, striking that perfect balance between playful and ultra-luxe. The perpetual calendar displays everything from the day and date to moon phases and even the week of the year.
PRICE: Approx $500,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15710ST
While most of John Mayer’s collection leans towards sports elegance, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver 15710ST is pure adrenaline.
Its 42mm stainless steel case is classic AP, but the star of the show is the punchy “Tropical Turquoise” dial which is a bold, summery shade that turns heads even in a sea of watches. Released in 2018, this model combines everyday dive functionality with high-fashion flair, making it one of the most playful pieces in Mayer’s rotation.
PRICE: Approx $55,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ultra Thin Tourbillon
John Mayer’s wrist is no stranger to standout timepieces, and the 41mm AP Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon in titanium is no exception.
A refined departure from the classic Royal Oak design, this model ditches the iconic Grande Tapisserie dial for a smooth, sandblasted smoked blue face, with white gold hour markers and a subtle white minute track. Powered by the Caliber 2950 movement, the flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock is a mesmerizing spectacle, visible through both the dial and caseback.
PRICE: Approx $350,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie Titanium
Among all the incredible pieces in John Mayer’s watch collection, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in titanium holds a special place. Released in 2019 with an upgraded version in 2021, this watch is an engineering marvel.
With its deep blue dial, the piece showcases AP’s technical mastery, especially with its minute repeater complication, which chimes the time using a unique sound technology called “Supersonnerie” for a louder, clearer tone. Limited in production and notoriously difficult to acquire, this is a watch that commands attention and a hefty price tag.
PRICE: Approx $400,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph 26587TI
If there’s one watch that blends futuristic design with timeless craftsmanship in John Mayer’s collection, it’s the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon Chronograph 26587TI. Released as part of AP’s experimental Royal Oak Concept line, this 45mm titanium beauty is a tech-lover’s dream.
The skeletonized dial reveals the inner workings of the Caliber 2949 movement, complete with a tourbillon, chronograph, and a sea of intricate details. The sandblasted titanium case, paired with ceramic pushers and a white rubber strap, gives it a sporty, sleek aesthetic that Mayer clearly loves for a weekend watch.
PRICE: Approx $300,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Music Edition 15601BC
Since he’s clearly a fan of the AP Royal Oak, it seems only right the musician owns the brand’s limited Music Edition model. Released in July 2022 and limited to just 250 pieces, this watch is an unapologetic tribute to sound and color.
Its blue aventurine dial features a rainbow VU meter motif, echoing the equalizer lights on mixing boards. That theme continues onto the bezel, which is set with baguette-cut gemstones in a spectrum from red to blue.
Powered by AP’s Calibre 4309 with a 70-hour reserve and finished with a blue rubber strap, this piece hits every note, horologically and visually.
PRICE: Approx $222,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Spiderman
Another fun, albeit very different watch for John Mayer is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Spider-Man”, a 250-piece limited edition born from AP’s unexpected Marvel collaboration.
Worn during a 2023 benefit concert alongside Ed Sheeran (who was also rocking the same model), this 42mm piece takes bold design to superhero levels. Its standout feature is the fully sculpted 3D Spider-Man in painted white gold, suspended inside a skeletonized movement with a tourbillon visible at 6 o’clock.
PRICE: Approx £215,000
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ‘John Mayer’ Limited Edition 26574BC
A different kind of masterpiece in John Mayer’s collection, the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer” Edition isn’t just a watch he owns but was co-designed by Mayer himself. Limited to 200 pieces, this 41mm white gold watch features a mesmerizing “Crystal Sky” dial, an electroformed, faceted surface that mimics the texture of a starry night.
It’s also powered by AP’s Calibre 5134 offering full perpetual calendar functionality. If anything proves you’re a legendary watch collector, it’s getting to design your own Audemars Piguet.
PRICE: Approx $180,700
G-Shock Casio DW6900JM22
A major shift from the ultra-luxury timepieces we’ve touched on so far, the G-SHOCK DW6900JM22-2 is a playful, nostalgic piece designed by John Mayer in collaboration with Casio.
Inspired by his first keyboard, the 1980s Casiotone SK-5, the watch features dusty blue resin, peach and turquoise highlights, and PT-1-style accents. It’s rugged, affordable, and brimming with sentimental value. As part of a trilogy, it celebrates the creativity of childhood and democratizes collecting. It’s also just nice to have a watch that’s accessible to us mere mortals.
A standout among Mayer’s non-Rolex/AP/Patek pieces, the Panerai Luminor 1950 PAM00127 “Fiddy” is a rare, vintage-inspired beast.
Released in 2002 in a limited run of 1,950 pieces, it pays homage to Panerai’s 1950s military roots. Its oversized 47mm case, sandwich dial, and iconic domed crystal exude old-school dive watch charm.
A surprising yet refined choice in John Mayer’s watch collection is the F.P. Journe Élégante in titanium. Originally designed as a women’s watch in 2015, its success led to a larger 48mm version for men two years later.
Mayer has been seen wearing this ultra-light, quartz-powered piece on tour, showcasing his appreciation for comfort, innovation, and horological craftsmanship. The watch automatically enters sleep mode after inactivity to preserve battery life, then instantly wakes when moved which is pretty cool.
Back in the early days of his music career, and his watch collecting career for that matter, John Mayer was known to favour IWC Schaffhausen, particularly the Swiss watchmaker’s Pilot’s collection.
One watch spotted on his wrist was the IWC Pilot Chronograph 3706, a no-nonsense classic from IWC’s tool-watch lineage. With its 39mm stainless steel case, legible black dial, and clean chronograph layout, the 3706 exemplifies utilitarian style. It’s powered by a reliable automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve.
Last but certainly not least is the IWC Big Pilot Platinum Ref. 5002, a deeply personal piece for John Mayer. After falling in love with the original Big Pilot, it quickly became more than just a watch but a part of his identity, even inspiring the inlay at the 12th fret of his Martin signature guitar.
Eventually, Mayer upgraded to the rare platinum version, solidifying his connection to IWC. This bold 46mm timepiece, with its iconic oversized crown and clean, highly legible dial, represents Mayer’s early and lasting love affair with serious, functional watchmaking.
PRICE: Approx $20,000
Conclusion
John Mayer’s watch collection blends rarity, personal storytelling, and true collector’s insight. From grail-level Daytonas to playful G-Shocks, his passion, influence, and eye for horology truly does cement his status as one of the most iconic collectors in the game.
James Bond isn’t just a beloved agent of His Majesty’s Secret Service: he’s a style icon for men across generations and a watch-brand ambassador like no other. And from lounging by the pool to elegant soirees, 007 shows us how alluring the right timepiece can be, no matter the occasion.
And Bond doesn’t just demonstrate what to wear – he shows you how to wear these watches.
If you want to look like you’re always ready for action, a sophisticated party, or a romantic evening with a stunning partner, 007 has a watch option you’ll love to make your own.
Let’s take a closer look at Bond’s iconic watches across the franchise.
Gruen Precision 510
Dr. No’s introduction of Sean Connery as Bond is immediately recognizable. Suave, seductive, and in control, Bond deals a few hands of baccarat – specifically the Chemin de Fer variant – allowing him to play tete-a-tete against the stunning Sylvia Trench.
“Le Cercle’s” guests are impossibly elegant, and Bond pairs his black tux with a Gruen Precision 510 on an onyx fabric strap.
The simple, clearly legible Gruen is more than a dress watch: it’s a field watch for high society, a timepiece that reveals the man of action beneath all that luxury. Understated in its size – the case measures just 34mm – the 510 features a manually-wound 17 jewel movement, a brushed case, and Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9.
Manufactured from 1958 to 1972 by the now-defunct American watchmaker, 510s in running order fetch prices starting in the high $700s. And while perhaps not as iconic as the Omegas and Rolexes of later films, the Gruen Precision 510 is the most elegant of the franchise’s wristwatches.
Bond’s penchant for action means that a dress watch just won’t do – at least not while he’s in the heat of things. And reflecting Ian Fleming’s own taste in timepieces, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 was chosen as a working timepiece for 007.
The 6538 is the Submariner, and its distinctive stainless case, dial, and unguarded but oversized crown, hit just the right notes as the Bond theme plays in films like Dr. No, From Russia with Love, and Goldfinger. Paired with a wide variety of straps and bracelets, the 6538 demonstrates its flexibility from scene to scene and movie to movie.
Rugged and ready, but a far cry from a laborer’s timepiece, the Rolex Submariner was an essential bit of kit for Bond, often customized by Q-branch in ways that allowed 007 to escape certain death.
Manufactured from 1956 to 1959, this model cemented the allure of the Submariner in the minds of the public. And iconic as it is, working models fetch prices easily into the six figures.
Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002
For the plot of Thunderball, Bond required a watch fitted with a Geiger counter, and Q-branch was happy to oblige with a modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002.
The film’s prop department heavily modified the case of the Breitling, providing it with a sturdy, massive case that’s perfectly fitting, given its purpose.
A black dial wearing tachometer markings and silver subdials at 3 and 9, makes this a striking wristwatch for more casual wear in the film, and it’s just as at home shooting clay pigeons as it is infiltrating a secret base underwater.
Unfortunately, as a unique piece, you can’t get your hands on the original, but a modern Top Time runs roughly $4,250.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The 6538 began Bond’s love affair with the Rolex Submariner, and he was more committed to this brand and model than any woman featured in the films.
On Her Majesty’s Secret Service found Lazenby wearing the (now) more contemporary 5513, often on an Oystersteel bracelet – and just as often equipped with powerful magnets, a buzz-saw bezel, and other upgrades courtesy of Q.
And while those added extras were pure movie magic, the 5513 was the real deal: a rugged, durable, no-nonsense tool that told the time with style to spare.
This Rolex, more than perhaps any other, has come to typify what we expect from a dive watch: a rotating bezel with minute increments marked up to 15, tan/gold markings on the dial and hands, and a chunky stainless steel case measuring a big 44mm, especially in 1974, when gentleman’s timepieces were almost always more svelte.
No longer produced, the 5513 in good shape can fetch upwards of $13,000, a testament to its lasting appeal.
In On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Bond goes undercover, and his watch reflects that. Posing as a respected genealogist, Lazenby’s wrist introduced a more elegant Submariner, the stunning 6238.
Without downplaying Bond’s flair for adventure, this silver-faced chronograph in stainless steel on a matching, two-toned brushed and polished bracelet did something new: the red seconds hand was modified by Q-branch to serve as a compass, allowing 007 to find and infiltrate Blofeld’s secret lair in the Swiss Alps.
And while not as flashy as a buzz saw, that modification was no less essential for Bond’s mission.
Discontinued in 1968, this beautiful wrist watch showcased small subdials and all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a fine chronograph, and its undeniably cool vibe and manly aesthetics paved the way for the Daytona of legend.
Expect to pay somewhere in the neighborhood of $40,000 for a pristine example.
Hamilton’s Pulsar P2 2900
While automatic movements are the standard of luxury now, the 1970s witnessed the rise of quartz technology and some very forward-looking designs that sought to introduce wider audiences to high-end quartz watches.
Among them, count the Hamilton’s Pulsar P2 2900, a chunky wrist watch with a red LED display. On Roger Moore’s wrist in Live and Let Die, the Hamilton oozed high-tech with a sleek, futuristic design.
Billed as revolutionary, this quartz watch had no gears to wind, no springs to wear out, and required no tuning to achieve startling accuracy – just split-second time on demand.
That practical simplicity (despite the very real idiosyncrasies of setting the time) resonated with Bond’s readiness for action and sparked a brief challenge to the dominant position of high-mechanical horology.
Discontinued almost a lifetime ago, vintage P2s are available for as little as $500.
Seiko 0674 LC
Introduced in 1976, just in time for The Spy Who Loved Me, the Seiko 0674-5009 continued the trend toward futuristic design and quartz simplicity.
Worn by Roger Moore, this timepiece was more about pushing Q-type tech into the foreground, especially for a viewing public unfamiliar with horological developments at the time. Clean, forward-looking, and easy to read, the Seiko’s stainless case and bracelet looked like something 20 years in the future, leapfrogging traditional wrist-watch aesthetics.
Its functions included time, seconds, light, date, and weekday indicators, just what you need as you move from country to country and time zone to time zone, often in just hours.
Long since discontinued, the Seiko 0674 LC is available in good condition for roughly $450, and its retro appeal is still strong among fashion leaders.
Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar
While probably not a watch we would now consider fitting for the always-stylish Bond, Seiko’s M345 Memory Bank Calendar, like the 06774 LC, was a gesture toward emerging horological technology.
Quartz accuracy, and the bells and whistles it made possible, were still exciting and new when Moonraker debuted on screen, and the space-themed adventure demanded something more than analogue simplicity.
The M345 delivered this in spades, offering calendar and memory functions, as well as impeccable digital time. A rare watch in 1979, it’s even harder to find now, and working examples are difficult to come by.
Expect to pay a minimum of several hundred dollars for this wearable piece of Bond history.
Seiko 7549-7009 “Golden Tuna”
As Bond races the Russians to recover the British Automatic Targeting Attack Communicator (ATAC) from a sunken submarine in For Your Eyes Only, it’s only fitting that he be equipped with a capable, handsome dive watch. This 1981 film sees Seiko’s legendary “Golden Tuna,” a striking timepiece by any standard, on 007’s wrist.
Capable of saturation diving and sporting a quartz heart in a machined titanium case, the Golden Tuna is as rugged as it is attractive, much like Bond himself. Flashier than the Omegas and Rolexes that typically grace the silver screen, this wristwatch marries a professional-grade tool to an adventurous agent like almost nothing else.
And the eye-catching gold details, a clean diver’s style dial, and 600m water resistance combine to make this a quartz watch that tempts even the most die-hard fans of high mech.
If you’re tempted by the “Golden Guna,” you’re not alone, and rest assured that they keep immaculate time to this day. A quick search will find this legendary model at prices starting around $2,000.
Seiko H357 Duo Display
The early 80s witnessed plenty of love for Seiko timepieces in Bond films, and the H357 Duo Display graces 007’s wrist for most of the film in For Your Eyes Only.
And while showcasing what was unbelievable tech for the time, the H357 is the most understated and attractive of the digital watches Bond is equipped with in this period, matching his Q-branch modified Lotus for cool without missing a beat.
The H357 Duo Display, as its name suggests, offers both an analogue and digital display. Driven by a quartz movement, accurate time was reliably on hand while wearing this watch. The Seiko used in the film was reportedly modified by the prop team, so a perfect match with the original isn’t possible.
And as you’d expect, this model is hard to come by. Pristine examples command prices in the mid-$300s to high $400s, when you can find them.
Seiko G757 Sports 100
Roger Moore’s Bond was as loyal to Seiko as he was to Queen and country, and 1983’s Octopussy found 007 jousting again with the Russians and a nuclear threat.
Continuing the trend toward the high-tech, he was equipped with the amazing Seiko G757 Sports 100, tricked out by Q-branch to include a digital locator. An important tool for Bond’s mission, this Seiko receives more than its fair share of close-ups as he hunts down a Faberge egg.
Time, date, alarms, stopwatches: the digital G757 was a step in the direction of modern timepieces like the Casio G-Shock, and one glance at the divided digital dial makes their kinship obvious.
Rare and prized, authentic models of this watch still command prices in the neighborhood of $500, a hefty sum for a more than 40-year-old digital timepiece.
Seiko Chronograph White Dial 7A28-7020
Quartz technology was evolving rapidly in the early 1980s, and while digital displays were seen as the future, the Seiko Chronograph White Dial 7A28-7020 recaptured the look of analogue elegance with a stunning white dial and subdued sword hands showcased by a polished steel body.
Several subdials, the usual tachymeter markings, and pushers to actuate its features mark this watch out as special, and 007 makes full use of its undeniable good looks in A View to a Kill. From rescuing Stacey Sutton to seducing her in good time, Bond’s watch is every bit as precise, sexy, and capable as the spy himself.
Expect to pay a reasonable premium for this beautiful vintage watch, with pristine examples commanding prices in the mid-$600s.
Seiko H558
1985’s A View to a Kill offered its audience plenty of stunning Seikos, and the H558 continued the high-tech trend toward digital-analogue combinations with a look that’s just as fresh now as it was then. And while “quartz chic” may be something of an oxymoron these days, there’s no question that this vintage Seiko looks every bit the Bond watch.
Designed along the same general lines as the Seiko “Tuna,” the H558 is a bit sleeker, adding cool details like a day/date digital window to the timeless appeal of the Seiko diver’s dial.
Rugged, dependable, and ready for action, the H558 on Bond’s wrist was the perfect choice for 007’s daring adventures.
This Seiko in running order starts in the $400s, but mint examples can go for as much as $800 depending on the auction.
Seiko 6923-8080
Any real Bond aficionado knows that 007’s mastery of style comes down to carefully chosen, timeless essentials, and the two-tone Seiko 6923-8080 is a perfect timepiece for everything from business to pleasure, which for the spy could mean pairing this striking watch with a sport coat and khakis (complete with cravat).
The steel case, two-toned president bracelet, and elegant dial ooze class and sophistication, while still signaling excitement. A quartz analogue, the 6923-8080 draws inspiration from the Rolex Datejust, sounding just the right notes of old-moneyed taste.
This is certainly a choice that men can still be proud to wear, and this Seiko hasn’t lost a step in the intervening decades since its release.
Excellent examples command prices in the mid-$300s, making this an affordable option for those looking for a refined look that demands respect.
Rolex Datejust
Roger Moore’s personal Rolex Datejust also appeared in A View to a Kill, making its debut in the scene in which Bond finds a very dead Sir Godfrey Tibbett in Zorin’s Rolls Royce.
Whether this was an intentional choice or not, the return to Rolex in this scene represents a change in direction for 007’s timepieces. Out are the Seikos and quartz movements; back are the automatics from Rolex and other premium European brands.
The two-toned Datejust, featuring Roman numerals, a cyclops-style lens over the date, and an elegantly decorated bezel and crown, matches Bond’s sense of classic fashion perfectly. This Rolex, perhaps more than any other watch to date, typifies the 007 aesthetic.
This model still attracts attention from collectors and wearers alike, and you can find nice examples starting at around $5,000.
TAG Heuer Professional Night-Dive Ref. 980.031
Timothy Dalton took the helm as Bond in 1987’s The Living Daylights, and the opening sequence sees him wearing a black TAG Heuer Professional Night Dive.
This deep black timepiece shows a luminous dial to fantastic effect, and like the other dive watches of the franchise, this one is as lovely as it is capable.
Introduced when physical vapor deposition was still a new tech, these timepieces tend to show their wear, but when pristine, they offer a luxuriant black backdrop for what was and is a real show-stopper.
The Bond-specific model is very hard to find, and despite its use of a quartz movement – the last of this kind of 007 – it still runs roughly $2,000 in good condition.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800
Dalton returned in 1989 as 007, with a Rolex Submariner 16800 gracing his wrist. Unfortunately, the model has confused some fans, as his stunt double wore a very similar model, sans the cyclops date window.
But Bond flexed his inimitable style with the last Rolex (so far) of the franchise. And like the dive watches of previous films, “the spy who loved watches” was able to dress up or down this striking timepiece.
A matte dial, an unpolished case, and perfectly applied lume strike just the right balance between elegance and action, connecting Connery’s Submariners to the Omegas to come.
One of the rarer models, given its short production run, the 16800 is very hard to find, and prices can skyrocket for mint examples at auction, with some examples fetching as much as $175,000!
Omega Seamaster Professional Ref. 2541.80
Q-branch may have taken some time off from advanced gadgetry during the late 1980s, but GoldenEye witnessed not only a dramatic shift to Omega from Rolex and Seiko, but also the return of fantastic timepiece features like lasers.
Pierce Brosnan’s Bond marks a new era for 007’s wrist, and the Omega Seamaster Professional gestures to the Submariners and Seikos while charting a course of its own. This quartz-driven diver appears with both a black strap and the standard steel bracelet, allowing its dazzling deep blue dial to do the talking.
A uniquely machined bezel draws the eye, and while taste is largely subjective, I think this Omega is nothing short of beautiful, a memento from an era when quartz tech was reshaping the industry and its brands.
This vintage Seamaster Professional can be had for roughly $2,000 at auction or from reliable resellers.
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2531.80.00
Brosnan would continue to showcase Bond’s new love for Omega, wearing a newer model Seamaster in each of the next three installments: Tomorrow Never Dies (1997),
The World is Not Enough (1999), and Die Another Day (2002).
This Seamaster retained the aesthetic of the earlier watch, but offered rhodium plating and a mechanical movement in place of the stainless steel and quartz. Responding to the trend of luxury watches to embrace high-mech and skip the simple quartz movements, 007’s wrist allows horological history a place on the silver screen.
As attractive a choice now as it was two decades ago, his Omega can be found for fair prices in the mid-$2,000s.
Omega Seamaster 300M Co-Axial 2220.80.00
Omega seems to have captured Bond’s heart for longer than any of his female co-stars, displaying remarkable loyalty to the brand.
That makes a lot of sense when you step back a bit.
Omega knew they were on to something with the styling of the Seamaster, and it comes as little surprise that, at first glance, Daniel Craig’s Bond seems to be wearing the same timepiece as Brosnan.
But a deeper dive into the watch gracing his wrist in much of Casino Royale reveals a new, rhodium-plated co-axial movement under the hood, an upgrade to be sure from quartz as well as the mechanical movement of the 2531.80.
But while the beating heart of this watch may be changed, the panache and presence of the Seamaster carry the Bond mystique perfectly.
Carefully tended examples can fetch prices as high as $4,000 for this model, a fair price for an iconic timepiece.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 232.30.42.21.01.001, 2900.50.91, and 2201.50.00
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean spends a lot of screen time on Craig’s wrist over the next films, keeping its clean look and the co-axial movement that sets the real players apart from the pretenders, just as Bond does at the poker table.
A black dial, clean, uber-legible markings, and understated straps and bracelets lend these Seamasters a quiet confidence and the good looks to attract the eye of the beautiful Vesper Lynd.
Returning to the elegant simplicity of the early dive watches of Connery’s Bond, the Planet Ocean is simply stunning, working as well with casual clothing as it does with 007’s formal evening attire.
These vintage watches can be found in excellent condition for several thousand dollars.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Ref. 231.10.42.21.03.003
Craig’s Bond is a more stripped-down, hard-edged version of 007 when compared to Moore, Dalton, and Brosnan, and the choice to equip him with the Aqua Terra in Skyfall reflects this.
Perhaps the most attractive of the spy’s sport watches – at least to my eye – the Aqua Terra showcases a beautiful manufactured and finished dial, elegant legibility, and a case and bracelet that are at home whatever Bond is up to: fleeing assassins, car chases, gun fights, or just looking effortlessly cool against exciting backdrops.
It harkens to an error when watches were signature tools, necessary equipment for keeping meetings, promises, and deadlines. Sleek, elegant, sexy, and daring, the Aqua Terra isn’t just for show; its heart is the co-axial calibre 8500, a refined, luxurious movement that keeps impeccable time.
If you need a watch that looks as good on your wrist as it does on screen, your search has ended. The MSRP for this watch from Omega is $6,000.
Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001
Bond’s military experience is essential to believable action sequences, and when pressed to his limits, you’ll find 007 sporting a special Omega Seamaster 300. Omega released this timepiece in a limited series, explaining why they can be hard to find on the used market.
Fitted with a five-stripe black and gray NATO strap, the black face, 12-hour bezel, and vintage Super-Luminova coatings draw a direct line to the spy’s history while staying fresh and new. Powered by the exciting co-axial 8500 movement, long gone are trerh days of quartz movements, digital displays, or fancy gadgets.
More forceful than the Aqua Terra, and clearly more commando-inspired by design, this Seamaster is ready for anything SPECTRA can throw at Craig.
Models in pristine condition can fetch prices in the high-five figures.
Finally, we come to 007’s latest watch, an Omega designed with the help of Daniel Craig. The 007 Edition of the Seamaster Diver wears a brown tropical aluminium bezel ring and dial over a titanium case and mesh bracelet (or a NATO strap).
Powered by the co-axial master chronometer 8806, the subdued tones and feather-weight materials speak to wearability, function, and rugged dependability, without sacrificing the aesthetics that draw the eye to the Seamaster.
No Time to Die is probably not the end of Bond, or his love for Omega watches, and if you can’t live without this 007 memento – or its legendary cool – it’s available from the manufacturer for just $10,600 (with the bracelet).
Conclusion
From Dr. No’s Gruen Precision 510 to Skyfall’s Aqua Terra, Bond captured the essence of manly style with a sophistication that’s never stodgy. Braced for action, but charmingly refined and elegant, 007’s wrist has showcased more than a few horological treasures.
Among these iconic timepieces, you’re sure to find a few that capture your imagination and enhance your sense of style.
A solid gold watch has often been regarded as a memento marking an important milestone in a person’s life. That was especially the case in the mid-20th Century when gold watches were relatively more accessible and affordable than they are today.
If you say “solid gold watch” now, many think only of elusive and extravagant 18K Rolex Daytonas or Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oaks. Good luck purchasing one of those for the retirement party honoree!
However, gold is still timeless and desirable. So what’s a gift giver to do?
Fortunately, all is not lost. There are still ways to buy a relatively “cheap” gold watch, even an 18K one, especially if you’re open to smaller dress watch styling, quartz movements over mechanical, and leather straps.
Allow me to be your guide by showing you some options. At the end, I think you’ll see you don’t have to be a monarch with megabucks to still enjoy gold, “the money of kings.”
Things to Know Before You Buy
Keep in mind that “cheap solid gold watch” is a relative term.
For instance, a retail price of $12,000, which will serve as our starting point, is relatively much “cheaper” than ones above $20,000 where so many popular well-known brand offerings reside today.
However, you might be surprised to discover that some 18K gold watches can be found for under $3,000—and I promise to get you into that range before we’re done!
Remember that “solid gold” is a bit of a misnomer.
The technical term is “gold alloy,” meaning that 18K (K=karat, a unit of measurement indicating purity) “solid gold” will typically consist of 75% pure gold, with the rest other materials such as silver, copper, zinc, palladium, or even platinum, depending on whether it is yellow, white, or rose in color.
Recognize that an 18K option from an entry or mid-level “affordable luxury” brand like Tissot or Longines is more likely to yield affordable and accessible options, especially in the new, unworn category.
Pre-owned and vintage pieces will open more doors in the sub-$10,000 range, even with iconic brands like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Phillippe.
Above all, make sure the watch is solid gold and not gold-plated if you want the distinction of owning the “real deal”!
Top 12 Modern 18K Gold Watches Under $12,000
This Top 12 list of new, unworn solid 18K solid gold watches will assume a budget of $12,000 or less and will count down from most expensive to least. Read all the way down for the “cheapest” award winner!
12. Omega De Ville Trésor Sedna Gold Quartz 36mm (ref. 428.58.36.60.02.001)
I was surprised to discover a 36mm 18K gold watch from renowned brand Omega for under $12,000. A slender 8.9mm thick, this reference is not only composed of the brand’s proprietary Sedna™ “rose gold” alloy but also has diamond paving along the sides of the case, as well as a small diamond set in its highly polished crown.
The dial color is lacquered silver and it has rose gold Roman numeral indices and handset. The crystal is domed sapphire, and the caseback is solid with a mirrored finish and engraved floral pattern—it’s technically from Omega’s “Ladies Selection”, but there’s nothing stopping the right fellow from pulling it off.
The strap is grey alligator leather, and the movement is Omega’s quartz caliber 4061. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $11,600.
11. Nomos Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39 (ref. 1180)
This elegant dress watch is executed in an 18K rose gold case with wire lugs that is 38.5mm in diameter and 8.4mm thick. It has a domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire display caseback which showcases the beautiful in-house automatic Caliber DUW 3001 with a power reserve of 43 hours.
The dial is simple and clean and is galvanized, white-silver plated with round, gray hour indices (larger ones at 3,6,9, and 12 o’clock), and smaller ones with Arabic numerals every 5 minutes in the minutes track. The hands are rose gold, and there is a small seconds subdial in the 6 o’clock position.
The strap is 19mm cordovan brown Horween leather with a 19mm width, rose gold winged clasp, and quick-change spring bars. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $10,920.
10. Tank Louis Cartier, Small Quartz (ref. WGTA0342)
The Cartier Tank has been a symbol of understated luxury and good taste since 1919. This one has an 18K yellow gold, 29.5mm x 22mm Art Deco-style case with the vertical brancards and beaded crown with blue sapphire cabochon that lend the watch its classic aesthetic.
The dial is silver-grained and Cartier-branded with Roman Numeral indices and the familiar “tank tread” minutes track. The hours and minutes hands are sword-shaped and blued steeled. The thickness is a super slender 6.35mm including the mineral crystal.
The strap is light brown alligator leather with an 18K yellow gold tang buckle. It is powered with a highly accurate quartz movement—and since there’s no seconds hand, no one at the soirée will notice it’s not automatic! Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $10,200.
As you’ll see, Longines offers several accessibly priced 18K gold watches. This first one has a 38.5mm diameter, 9.2mm thick, 18K pink gold case with both a sapphire crystal and display caseback. The dial is silver with a fine “barleycorn” textured pattern that adds an extra touch of class.
The hour markers are painted Art Deco-style Arabic numerals, and there is a date window at 6 o’clock. The chapter ring is a minutes track with different-sized hashes combined with hashes Arabic numerals at 5-minute intervals.
The handset is blued steeled. The caliber L888 movement beats at 25,200 bph and has a long-running 72 hr. power reserve. It comes on a brown alligator strap with white stitching and a triple safety clasp with a push-piece mechanism. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $8,600.
8. Baume & Mercier Clifton (ref. 10802)
Baume & Mercier has been around since 1830 but remains somehow of a sleeper brand for many people. Still, the recently launched and handsome satin-finished 18K rose gold Clifton deserves high praise. It has a 39mm diameter, 11.5mm thick case capped with a domed sapphire crystal and display caseback.
The cross-hair dial is silvery-white with a grained finish, a black minutes track, along with rose gold trapezoid-shaped indices (Arabic Numeral at 12) and alpha-shaped hands. There is a discreet date window at 6 o’clock that enhances both symmetry and functionalism.
The movement is the self-winding Baumatic BM13-1975A which beats at 28,800 bph and boasts a whopping 5-day power reserve. The strap is red-brown alligator leather with a steel Ardillon buckle and quick-change feature. Water resistance 50m/164ft. Retail price: $8,500.
7. Ball Trainmaster Standard Time 18K (ref. NM3888D-PG-LCJ-WH)
The Ball brand was founded in 1891 by Webb C. Ball who investigated the head-on collision of two trains near Lipton, Ohio and helped create standardized time. Now Swiss-owned, Ball celebrates its railroad heritage with a script “RR” emblazoned on every dial.
This reference has an 18K rose gold case measuring 39.5 in diameter and 10.5mm in thickness, covered with a sapphire crystal and display caseback. The white enamel dial is adorned with Arabic numeral hour indices and lumed with tritium gas tubes.
There is a date window and small seconds subdial, at 3 and 6 o’clock, respectively. The spade, syringe, and arrowhead handset is blue steeled and lumed.
This timepiece is 18K pink gold and has an Art Deco-style “tonneau”-shaped case that measures 23mm x 30.6mm in diameter and is 8.5mm thick. It has a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with antireflective coating and a solid caseback.
The dial is silver and has a stunning sunburst “flinqué” pattern created by guilloché engraving and translucent enamel. The handset is blue-steeled and matches the distinctive blue crown tube.
The hour indices are painted black Art Deco-style Arabic numerals, the handset blue steeled, and there is an unassuming but handy date window at 6 o’clock. It’s paired with a brown alligator strap with white stitching and a tang buckle.
The movement is the automatic caliber L592 which beats at 28,800 bpm and has a power reserve of 45 hours. Water resistance is 30m/110ft. Retail price: $7,550.
5. Longines Dolcevita (ref. L5.512.8.75.2)
The Dolcevita line has been increasing in popularity, especially since actor and brand ambassador Jennifer Lawrence has been spotted wearing one on her wrist. Still, like the Cartier Tank, its rectangular Art Deco case shape and classic styling have cross-gender appeal as well.
This reference in particular gives off some “masculine vibes” with its black leather strap complimenting the no-date, black matte sector dial with painted pink gold lines and Roman numeral indices and white, inner chapter ring minutes track.
The 18K pink gold case has a wrist-conforming curve and measures 23mm x 37mm in diameter with a 7.2mm thickness.
The handset is pink gold-colored with hours and minutes sword hands and a small baton hand for the small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The movement is the quartz caliber L176. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $6,700.
4. Longines Elegant 37mm (ref. L4.787.8.12.4)
This reference is a quintessential “thin gold” dress watch, 18K pink gold with a vintage-sized 37mm diameter case, wired 19mm wide lugs, and a svelte 8.1mm thickness.
The matte white dial has only Longines print and the winged hourglass logo in the top half, and “Automatic” in the bottom half, for an unadorned, yet “Elegant” look as the name suggests. It has both a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and display caseback.
A date window sits at 3 o’clock. Hour indices are applied, baton-shaped and paired with a painted peripheral minutes track. The strap is black alligator with a triple safety folding clasp and push-piece opening mechanism.
The caliber L888 movement has a guilloche, rose-gold colored rotor with “Longines” script and a winged hourglass skeletonized cutout, along with a 72-hr. power reserve. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $5,450.
I told you I’d find some 18K gold options for under $3000, and here we are! The Tissot Excellence is simply stunning, and the first item that grabs your attention is its gradient “chocolate” brown-black dial.
The solid 18K yellow gold case’s 40mm diameter is a more modern dimension, but the thickness measures in at a svelte, vintage-like 5.85mm for an easy slide under the cuff.
Its gold-colored, no-lume handset and indices also exude a more retro vibe, and the only print is the” Tissot” and “1853” at the top and “Swiss Made” at the bottom edge, giving it an exceptionally clean look.
The matching black, alligator-style leather strap is a versatile 22mm width. There is 30m/100ft The movement is a Swiss quartz. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail: $2,995.
This Tissot no-date, classically styled, 18K rose gold reference has that 38mm diameter “sweet spot” size that fits a wide variety of wrists. However, it’s very thin (only 4.9mm!) which makes it ideal for formal occasions and long sleeve shirts.
The dial is white with no-lume, gold-colored indices and sparse branding which leaves a lot of pleasing negative space. The date window at 3 o’clock makes it a practical everyday piece, especially if your work requires business casual attire or above.
Other desirable features include a sapphire crystal, and a black leather strap with a 20mm width, making for easy strap swap-outs. It has a Swiss quartz movement with a battery end-of-life (EOL) indicator that causes the seconds hand to jump every 4 seconds when a new one is needed. Water resistance is 30m/100ft. Retail price: $2,595.
Drumroll please . . . our winner of the “Cheapest Solid 18K Gold Watch Award” is the Tissot Goldrun Hesalite! It projects an early 60s Mad Men retro look with its 33.7 case diameter, 6.55 thickness, silver colored dial, and domed, warm-toned, acrylic Hesalite crystal.
You can dress this one up for formal events, but with its date window at 3 o’clock and Super-LumiNova® lumed, gold-toned handset and indices, it can also function as a daily driver that still looks good with a tee shirt and jeans.
The strap is black, alligator-style leather and has an 18mm width. It is powered by a reliable and accurate quartz movement powered with an EOL indicator and runs on a Renata 371 battery. Water resistance is 30mm/100ft. Retail: $2,200.
Honorable Mention
Although I’ve focused on 18K gold, I’d be remiss if I didn’t also mention a 14K choice that stands out: the Hamilton Ventura Quartz Gold/Limited Edition ref. H24311730.
At $11,000 dollars retail, it’s more pricey, but in return you get an “Elvis Presley in Blue Hawaii–Men in Black (MIB)” classic with the triangular, early 60s “atomic age” case shape that is sure to draw attention and serve as a conversation starter.
“Solid Gold” Reflections
When I retired as an optometrist, I didn’t wait for anyone to give me the proverbial “gold watch”. Instead, I bought myself a $2,500 1961 vintage “birth year” watch, a 34mm stainless steel Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a 14K gold, engine-turned bezel to commemorate my career.
Paired with a premium leather strap, it receives more compliments than any other watch in my collection despite its unassuming looks and vintage size.
The bezel’s ultra-fine, engraved stria are worn to a smooth luster on the left side, a reminder of a previous owner who wore the watch so much their long sleeve shirt cuffs “left their mark”.
Such “honest wear” is an important chapter in a watch’s story, one accentuated by a soft, precious metal like gold. It’s a reminder for me to leave my own “mark” in this life by living honorably and well.
Steel and other metals are awesome in their own right, but reflections like that are “solid gold”.
It’s not for nothing that the tourbillon is considered the pinnacle of watchmaking craftsmanship. Every brand has to have one to be considered true haute horlogerie. Some will even make them an integral part of their identity—think Jaeger-LeCoultre’s spectacular gyrotourbillon or Breguet’s superb dual tourbillon watches.
There’s something viscerally fascinating about watching the stately rotation of a tourbillon. It’s almost unimaginably complex and nearly impossible to craft and hand-finish. It should come as no surprise, then, that these watches are usually accompanied by high 5-figure price tags—or even upwards of $100,000!
And yet what IS surprising is that just a handful of these beautiful tourbillons go for much less. No, you won’t be picking up a true tourbillon for $100-200. As a matter of fact, if you see something advertised as such with that cheap of a price tag, it’s almost certainly a fake tourbillon.
So what if you’re looking for a beautiful watch featuring this stunning complication but without the financial means to get your hands on one of the 5-figure stunners out there? Look no further than this list.
History of the Tourbillon
The tourbillon is one of the oldest and most exceptional complications in watchmaking, so it should come as no surprise that it was invented by the greatest watchmaker to ever live, Abraham-Louis Breguet, in 1801.
Indeed, it actually predates the wristwatch by over 100 years, as it was first featured in pocket watches. As you may be aware, the tourbillon’s central purpose is to cancel out the effects of gravity on a watch’s accuracy.
It contains the entire escapement in a cage that typically rotates once every 60 seconds, thus completely neutralizing gravity’s pull by canceling it out over the arc of its positions. You can easily imagine why this makes a lot of sense for a pocket watch, which spends most of its life nestled in the same position relative to the ground in your pocket.
Shockingly, the tourbillon actually serves little to no purpose in a wristwatch, since it’s in constant motion and so gravity won’t have quite the same effect on it. In this context, it’s mostly just for show, a display of true craftsmanship and elegance. But after all, isn’t that the purpose of a mechanical watch today anyway?
Today, tourbillons have been carried to an extreme in terms of development and accuracy. I mentioned the superb Jaeger-LeCoultre gyrotourbillon earlier: this little contraption takes up not much more space than a normal tourbillon and yet is able to rotate in 360 degrees over all three axes in 3D space.
Jacob & Co is also notorious for its use of gyrotourbillons, and their Astronomia movement is practically one massive tourbillon itself as it rotates everything around in the case.
But what about the tourbillons we’ll be seeing on this list? As it turns out, many of the best tourbillons for the price today were crafted by Olivier Mory, an independent watchmaker who owns BCP Tourbillons and makes these movements himself in his La Chaux-de-Fonds workshop.
He’s one of the most brilliant minds in the industry to be able to make these movements for so much cheaper than anyone else. It’s also definitely worth checking out his own watch label, Skill Watches, which he runs with his brother Thomas. The other tourbillons on the list are supplied by the Chinese brand Seagull, a bit lower quality than the BCP Tourbillons movements but quite advanced and beautiful nonetheless.
Let me wrap up with a final note about some of the tourbillons we’ll be seeing on this list, which aren’t pure tourbillons per se but rather what is known as a “karrusel.”
The karrusel is a type of tourbillon that’s simpler to make and, to put it simply, involves a few extra gears to help rotate the tourbillon cage.
A lot of brands will call these “co-axial tourbillons” to try to cover up that they’re actually karruseles. That said, these are still exceptional watches and functionally tourbillons, so they should not be disdained for not being “pure” tourbillons.
The 10 Best Cheap Tourbillon Watches
As I said before, you won’t be able to get your hands on a tourbillon for super cheap (though we do have one item on the list for sub-$1,000… stay tuned!), due to their advanced craftsmanship. That said, on this list you can find 10 truly exquisite tourbillons, all at a significantly reduced price compared to the average tourbillon. Let’s get right into it!
Frédérique Constant is known for offering high-quality watches at prices that are significantly more affordable than those of other Swiss brands.
In this case, their Classic Tourbillon is more expensive than most of the other options on this list, but it’s absolutely worth every penny and much cheaper than it has any right to be. Unlike the other watches here, the tourbillon movement is developed in-house by FC, not purchased from another supplier.
And for that matter, it’s absolutely gorgeous: just take a look at the blued screws and bright blue escape wheel visible through the tourbillon window at 6:00!
The rest of the watch is incredibly restrained and elegant, with beautifully shaped and finished applied indices and exquisite alpha hands—my favorite type. With a 39mm case and just 11mm thick, it’s super wearable.
Flip it over and take a look through the exhibition caseback while you’re at it—could you ask for anything more than the perlage, Côtes de Genève, blued screws, and engraved skeletonized rotor at this price?
Xeric is known for their characteristic display style, which features the hours and minutes printed on the dial so that the time is indicated by the halo hands that encircle it. Even more impressively, the numbers are also printed with lume, so you’ll be able to read the time just fine in the dark, too.
The rich emerald color is absolutely stunning, especially thanks to the variety of finishes over different sections of the dial. As for the tourbillon itself, it’s left ample room to be appreciated thanks to the hemicircular time indicator, and it certainly merits such appreciation.
Xeric doesn’t specify what movement they use, but it looks to my eyes to be a Seagull-made tourbillon, which is certainly supported by the price. At just $2,000, it’s a shockingly affordable piece for such unique, eye-catching style and class.
Peacock Climber Tourbillon Green Dial – $2,788
The Climber Tourbillon is much sportier than the other two we’ve looked at here, which allows it to play to a totally different niche in terms of collector interest. The design is clearly inspired by Hublot, with the rubber strap and “porthole”-esque screws, but it’s not an overt homage since the screws aren’t in Hublot’s characteristic H shape.
The dial is quite eye-catching in its rich alpine green shade with a Clous de Paris guilloché-style finish. And the power reserve at 12:00 is a unique style that’s quite sporty and legible.
However, I must admit that I’m not a fan of all the extra screws that are present on the dial, some seemingly randomly dotted throughout and others supposedly holding down all the subdials. They feel distracting and take away from the elegance of the guilloché pattern.
As for the tourbillon movement, it’s the caliber SL5215D, which has automatic winding and is a karrusel-type tourbillon. The tourbillon itself looks lovely through its 6:00 aperture with some pretty decent finishing to give it a luxurious shine. It checks all the boxes for me!
BA111OD Chapter 4.7 Onyx Tourbillon – $8,670
I love onyx dials. They’re so rich and dark in a way that even black enamel can’t quite capture. Now pair the classy black onyx with a superb tourbillon from Olivier Mory, and you’ve got a recipe for a stunning watch for the finest of black-tie occasions.
It’s 40mm in diameter and 11mm thick, so it’s pretty wearable for a stone-dial tourbillon and should slip under a shirt cuff with relative ease.
The back of the dial also features what BA111OD calls a “mirror film” and says it will reflect the upper face of the movement, but I’ve struggled to observe this in any pictures—perhaps it’s just one of those things you need to see hands-on with the watch.
Interestingly, as our friends at Fratello have pointed out, the movement itself is rotated in the case so that the crown is positioned at 4:00 instead of 3:00 and the tourbillon at 7:00 instead of 6:00.
I’m not a huge fan of this choice, as this feels like a watch that should have been kept a little more traditional due to its class and charm, but it is certainly interesting and shows more intentional design than merely slapping a stone dial over a tourbillon dial and calling it a day.
The movement itself is a caliber BA.01, based on a tourbillon by Olivier Mory, which is manual-winding and has a whopping 100-hour power reserve. Its striking black finishing can be admired through the exhibition caseback, and certainly should be!
Horage Autark Tourbillon Salmon – $15,300
Horage is a little-known independent brand that’s been shaking up the industry much more than most people know with their new MicroReg system.
While this watch doesn’t feature that (unfortunately, because MicroReg with a tourbillon would be insane), it’s still a superb sporty tourbillon, definitely worth your attention. It’s practically perfect in size at 39.5mm by 9mm thick, and as an integrated sports watch, it’s sure to find some love for its sporty design.
The dial is in a gorgeous salmon color with an unusually-placed power reserve indicator at 11:00, which introduces a few pops of color. The bezel is brightly mirror-polished and stands out beautifully atop the brushed case.
The movement is Horage’s caliber K-TMR, a superb tourbillon with micro-rotor winding. This watch isn’t cheap, but for a micro-rotor tourbillon, it’s incredibly affordable.
Thanks to its micro-rotor, it’s just 3.6mm thick, which helps keep the rest of the watch thin and wearable. The 60-second flying tourbillon is made from titanium and weighs just 0.29 grams. And just look at the blacked-out bridges, with hand finishing! Truly an exceptional watch for its price.
CIGA Design Central Tourbillon Mount Everest Homage Edition – $3,999
CIGA Design is a little-known Chinese designer watch brand with a strong multinational team of designers that produces shockingly affordable watches. In this case, their homage to Mount Everest is incredibly striking and beautiful.
Let me get this out of the way first—a tourbillon is one thing, but a central tourbillon is another altogether, and is usually reserved for the upper limits of haute horlogerie.
The hands, of course, are shaped like mountaineers’ picks, which makes reading the time very difficult and probably makes scaling Mount Everest much easier.
The watch was released to commemorate the 70th anniversary of the summit of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary, so the first four flags atop the mountain are hung from the minutes hand: Britain, Nepal, India, and the United Nations.
The base of the dial, believe it or not, is actually crafted from stones taken from the base of Everest, and the strap is textured in a similar style. Overall, it’s a watch that is full of little winks and careful design inclusions, making for a playful and well-made timepiece.
Agelocer Tourbillon Men’s New Hollow Gold Mechanical Watch Ceramic Bezel Blue Gold – $999
Sure, this watch might not have the best name. It also might not be quite your style. But for $999, with that lovely combination of white on rose gold on blue, I can’t help but let it tug on my heartstrings a little.
And after all, its design was crafted by Étienne Ruffieux, who has worked for brands like Zenith and Parmigiani Fleurier. It also received awards at the Europe Design Awards and French Design Awards.
Still not convinced? Just look at the superb level of skeletonization Agelocer has achieved here, even with a movement featuring two barrels and a flying tourbillon.
A lot of brands cite architecture as the inspiration for their case, but in this case, it’s actually believable if you examine the faceting of the case and the contrast of brushed and mirrored surfaces.
Inside, the watch runs on the caliber 9001, which uses two barrels to create an 80-hour power reserve. The flying tourbillon is elegant, but I do wish they had treated the balance wheel with a rose gold finish so that it doesn’t stick out quite so much in yellow gold. That said, it sure does make for an eye-catching appearance.
Sugess Tourbillon Master SU8230SW – $659
This is it. Does it really get any cheaper than this for a real, functioning tourbillon? I personally believe it’s the cheapest decently-made tourbillon out there. It’s classy, clean, and simple. Mirror-finished case, white enamel dial, and printed Breguet numerals.
The Breguet hands aren’t the best, but they’re still elegant and simple even if they’re not totally faithful to the original style. The crown is a little large and a little too fluted for my taste, but it is helpful for the manual-wind movement.
And then we get to the movement. Just look at that 6:00 tourbillon. To be fair, this is a karrusel, supplied by the Seagull ST8230.
But that is a real, honest-to-goodness tourbillon for under $700. You’ve even got a decent effort at finishing with blued screws and some sort of radial Côtes de Genève-esque finishing on the bridges. That is a whole lot of watch for not a lot of cash.
BA111OD Chapter 4.1 T.V.D. – $9,200
The T.V.D. is much like the Onyx Tourbillon I covered earlier in this list, but a little more expensive and with a totally different style. It’s sporty, fresh, and modern.
The entire case has received a DLC treatment to make it a lovely tantalum gray finish, which works beautifully with the blue accents on the dial.
The skeletonized dial puts Olivier Mory’s fine craftsmanship on full display. All the stats are the same as the Onyx Tourbillon, except for one thing, which I want to linger on for a moment, as I’ve never seen it before in watches.
The T.V.D. features a sapphire crystal with special NFC technology that is only in the crystal, so the entire rest of the watch is perfectly mechanical and traditional.
This is supplied by the Swiss brand STISS, which I’d never even heard of until I stumbled across this watch while researching this article.
They specialize in specialized sapphire glasses with different technological advancements, including their Augmented Glass (which has contactless payment technology) and in-development Key Glass, which will provide your authentication for crypto and NFT services.
The T.V.D. features its simpler ID glass, which creates a totally unique digital signature for the watch. The crystal can be scanned with your phone just by holding it in close proximity, and immediately, information about the watch is available at your fingertips, making it almost impossible to counterfeit.
In my opinion, that’s a major advancement in the true spirit of the tourbillon: making the watch truly unique and exceptional.
TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T CAR5A90 – ~$10,000
All the other watches on this list are from small brands or Chinese manufacturers. A watch like this, from a big-name Swiss brand, with a chronograph and tourbillon, for significantly less than other brands.
Now the prices for many of these models have been raised on TAG Heuer’s website to around $30,000 (those darn tariffs).
But here’s the real kicker—you can pick up a TAG Heuer CAR5A90 for a market price of a hair over $10,000 on the secondhand market, and can even find some as low as $7,000. For context, the Omega Speedmaster, a perfectly standard chronograph with no tourbillon, runs for over $7,000. That is insane value.
But wait, there’s more! The chronograph in this watch uses a column wheel, which is the most complex and luxurious way of doing it.
And allow me to remind you that none of the other watches on this list could do anything beyond the tourbillon and an occasional power reserve. It also has 65 hours of power reserve and automatic winding.
Now for the mic drop moment: the Heuer-02T is COSC-certified, so it’s accurate to an insane -4/+6 seconds per day. That is the true spirit of a tourbillon: focusing on precision above all. This just might be the ultimate everyday wear tourbillon for its price.
Conclusion
A good tourbillon watch will never be cheap, but price doesn’t need to be a barrier to adding one of these horological marvels to your collection. Yes, they won’t all run perfectly forever or keep perfect time like a tourbillon from one of the finest Swiss brands.
But if you’re just fascinated by that little spinning cage, never fear—there are options for you, my fellow watch nerd.
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