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Rolex Explorer vs Oyster Perpetual: Which Rolex Icon is Right for You?
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Let’s be honest with ourselves—watch collecting is a niche hobby. In today’s day and age, most people wear smartwatches, and if they happen to have a “nice” watch on, it’s usually something that ticks from a department store.
Not that I’m hating on quartz watches or fashion brand watches. I’m not. I just have to remind myself, sometimes, that perspective is important in trying to engage an audience with important information.
If you surveyed a room of one hundred “watch civilians,” I’d guess the following: at least 95 out of 100 could easily recognize a Rolex; at least 50 had owned a watch at some point in their lives—including cheap cereal box watches from the nineties; about 15 would consider acquiring an expensive watch as a milestone purchase one day, with virtually all of them ultimately settling on a Rolex.
Such is the iconic status of Rolex. It is truly one of the most recognizable brands today, regardless of the industry. And so, being a “watch guy,” I am often asked the inevitable: “What entry-level Rolex should I purchase?”
The question carries weight—because with Rolex, it’s never just about telling time but rather about finding the perfect timepiece for your needs. Heavy is the crown and heavier still is the choice…
The Rolex Explorer Collection
The Explorer is my favorite Rolex—period. I love the mountains and the outdoors, and something about a robust three-hander without complications just gets me going.
The Rolex Explorer’s claim to fame came in 1953 when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay wore Rolex Explorers during their historic ascent of Everest.
This iconic moment cemented the watch’s reputation as a reliable companion for those who push the boundaries of exploration. With its straightforward design and dependable build, the Explorer continues to honor that legacy, offering a blend of ruggedness and elegance that appeals to those who appreciate both adventure and heritage.
Today, the standard Explorer is available in 36mm and 40mm, fitting the vast majority of wrists out there, both male and female. The 36mm can be had for $7,350, and the 40mm retails for $7,800. If you are interested in adding a bit of “pizzazz” to your wrist, then you should opt for the two-tone explorer, available in 36mm and retailing for $12,700.
Of course, if we are discussing the Explorer collection, we have to mention the iconic Explorer II. First released in 1971 with the reference 1655, it wasn’t until the reference 16550, introduced in 1985, that the Explorer II gained a true GMT function, allowing the wearer to independently set the 24-hour hand to track a second timezone.
Since then, all subsequent Explorer II models have retained the GMT functionality, making them more versatile for travelers. Available solely in a 42mm stainless steel case, the current Explorer II can be purchased with either a black or white dial for $9,750.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Collection
Essentially the “foundation” of Rolex, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is often the first Rolex many people experience, and for good reason.
It’s the perfect blend of luxury and flexibility—a watch that can be easily worn with a pair of jeans or a suit. Its name comes from Rolex’s Oyster case, introduced in 1926 as the world’s first truly waterproof wristwatch.
Subsequently, in 1931, Rolex added its Perpetual self-winding movement—hence the name “Oyster Perpetual.” So, while the Oyster Perpetual wasn’t Rolex’s first watch, it was the watch that truly laid the groundwork for the brand.
Most Rolex watches today are technically Oyster Perpetuals in the sense that they have an Oyster case and a Perpetual movement. But the simple Oyster Perpetual model remains the purest version of Rolex’s legacy.
The Oyster Perpetual comes in a variety of stylish colors, with green being one of my favorites! The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is offered in 41mm and 36mm variations for men, with smaller 34mm, 31mm, and 28mm options also available.
This watch is crafted with a stainless steel case and a COSC-certified automatic movement, making it both robust and precise.
Don’t be tricked by the nomenclature: The Oyster Perpetual is very capable; with 100m of water resistance and Rolex’s legendary build quality, it can be a “Go-Anywhere-Do-Anything” (GADA) watch.
With a starting price of around $5,650 for the 28mm version and reaching up to $6,500 for the 41mm, the Oyster Perpetual is a great value proposition, especially when considering that these watches really don’t lose their value.
Rolex Explorer vs Oyster Perpetual – How to Choose
Ultimately, you can’t go wrong with the Explorer or the Oyster Perpetual, regardless of size, model, or case materials. Modern Rolex watches are built to extraordinary standards—they truly stand the test of time and can be passed down from generation to generation.
Don’t believe me? Take a look at the price of vintage Explorers and Oyster Perpetuals. They are highly sought after and usually priced above the MSRP of when they were first sold.
So here are some questions you need to ask yourself. Do you travel a lot? If so, does a GMT make sense to you? Do you like larger, more robust watches with rotating bezels? Then maybe you should take a look at the Explorer II, which is extremely sought after, especially for business executives on the go.
Are you an outdoorsy person who needs a rugged yet elegant watch? Do you want more options in terms of sizing while still maintaining a utilitarian style? You should take a look at the Explorer.
My preference is for 36mm, but I have 6.5-inch wrists, which is on the lower end of the average for men. Consider that “smaller” watches are currently in, and historically, a smaller watch will remain sought after, even during “larger” watch wearing trends. And if you want something bigger, the 40mm is available.
Do you like to express your style with color and flair? Or, perhaps, you desire a watch that flies under the radar while maintaining the quality and heritage of Rolex?
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You should definitely opt for the Oyster Perpetual, available in a multitude of colors, with the “Celebration” dial being the loudest, and a traditional champagne or black dial is classic, understated, and versatile.
Conclusion
Ultimately, the best thing about watches and fashion is that there is great fluidity to them. It comes down to the three p’s: preference, purpose, and personality. It comes down to you.
The Explorer and the Oyster Perpetual are two sides of the same coin—both unmistakably Rolex, yet designed for different kinds of watch lovers. If you’re drawn to the idea of a watch with a sense of adventure, a tool built for the outdoors, something rugged yet refined, the Explorer is a perfect fit.
It’s the kind of watch that doesn’t just sit on your wrist—it becomes part of your story. Whether you’re hiking, traveling, or just appreciating the craftsmanship of a well-built timepiece, the Explorer never feels out of place.
But maybe you want something simpler, something that flies under the radar while still carrying all the prestige of the crown.
The Oyster Perpetual is pure Rolex—no frills, no complications, just a timeless design that works with anything. It’s an everyday watch in the best way possible, and with its range of colors and sizes, it lets you express a bit more personality.
At the end of the day, there’s no wrong choice—just the right watch for you.
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