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Rolex Oyster vs Jubilee: How to Choose the Right Bracelet
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Rolex is the grail watch brand for millions, and choosing the timepiece that best suits one’s taste involves many decisions. Dress watch or tool watch. Complications and functions. Dial and bezel colors. Naturally, price is a primary consideration. You get the idea.
There is also the choice of strap or bracelet. This part of a watch can’t be overlooked. It may seem simple. After all, the function of the strap or bracelet is to hold your watch securely on your wrist. There is more to it than that, though. Comfort, ease of clasping and unclasping, durability, and aesthetics all play a role.
If you have decided to go the bracelet route, you also want one that pairs well with the model you choose. There is a different aesthetic between dress and sport watches, and each is worn in different situations. Some watches are daily wearers and others are for special occasions only. This is something else to consider when choosing the right bracelet for your watch and your taste.
The two most popular bracelet styles offered by Rolex are the Oyster and the Jubilee. Which one should you choose? Let’s take a closer look at these two fine options to help you make that decision.
The Rolex Oyster Bracelet
In Rolex’s earliest days, watches came on leather straps as standard. By the early 1930s, bracelets were offered as an option and sometimes added 50% to the cost of the timepiece. You had to be willing to pony up a hefty price for a watch on a bracelet.
The first Oyster bracelets were created by Gay Frères, the legendary designer that also made bracelets for other luxury brands such as Audemars Piguet and Zenith. The first iteration of the three-link bracelet that would become the Oyster appeared in the late ’30s.
The popular bracelet continued to evolve and was patented by Rolex in 1948. The Oyster went through iterations with side rivets, stretchable links, and several different clasps. It became a standard feature on many models and proved to be popular with the brand’s legion of fans.
A testament to its enduring appeal is that the modern Oyster is a robust and beautiful bracelet as well as one of the best-selling bracelets for Rolex even today. Chances are, if you spot a Rolex out in the wild, it will be attached to an Oyster bracelet.
The Oyster has a sporty and classy look. Its flat, broad links sit comfortably around the wrist. It is available in stainless steel and precious metals, depending on the model of the watch it is attached to. It looks especially good on the tool watches, such as the Submariner, Cosmograph Daytona, and GMT Master II.
Current Oyster bracelets are paired with end links that match the shape of the case they are attached to. The Oysterlock clasp is a secure closure, and the Oystersteel Rolex uses has a higher chromium content than other stainless steel.
This makes it more corrosion-resistant and well-suited to dive watches. Current Oyster bracelets also feature the Glidelock system. This allows quick adjustments on the bracelet of up to 2 mm, helping to create a perfect fit.
Some of Rolex’s bolder models, such as the Batman, Pepsi, and Sprite, have polished center links combined with brushed outer links on their Oyster bracelets.
This helps them pop and coordinates nicely with the bold dial and bezel color combinations. The generally sporty look of the Oyster makes it an excellent choice for an everyday watch.
In terms of robustness, the Oyster is solidly crafted, and its wide links enable it to stand up to the rigors of daily wear in all kinds of situations. This is a major factoring in its continuing popularity.
The brushed surfaces do a great job of hiding scratches and are the reason tool models like the Submariner come with an Oyster that has all the links brushed. The 20 mm lug width is the most common size and will suit most wrists.
The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet
The Rolex Jubilee bracelet is the brand’s elegant and sophisticated option. As such, since 2018, it is not offered on stainless steel sport models. The Jubilee is designed to pair with the classiest dress watches, such as the Day-Date and Datejust.
The bracelet was created in 1945 to commemorate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, hence the name Jubilee. Originally made only in gold and offered only on the Datejust, the Jubilee is now available in stainless steel as well as other precious metals.
Two-tone Jubilees with gold center links and stainless steel end links look great with a two-tone case. In addition to Rolex’s dress watches, the Jubilee is also an option on the GMT Master II watches.
The distinctive look of the jubilee comes from its five-link design. The two outer links are wider than the three inner links. This creates an “x” pattern in the center of the bracelet that elevates the style. With its smaller links, the Jubilee has greater flexibility, and most Rolex fans find it more comfortable than the Oyster.
The small center links catch the light beautifully and add a nice flash of bling, further highlighting the elegant look of the watches with a Jubilee bracelet.
One downside is that, although it is a very well-made bracelet and is built to last, the links, especially on the softer gold ones, are more prone to scratches and blemishes of any kind are easily visible.
The Jubilee requires more care than the Oyster and, thus, is not recommended for an everyday timepiece. Save it for special occasions when you need to look your best.
Rolex recommends not wearing a Jubilee bracelet loosely. This causes more movement in the links and creates added wear. You will be shortening the life of the bracelet. If you bring a damaged Jubilee to an AD, they won’t repair it. Rolex will replace the entire bracelet, and this is costly. Store your Rolex on a Jubilee in its box and not in a jewelry box with other items.
Rolex Oyster vs Jubilee – How to Choose
Now that you know quite a bit about each bracelet, let’s talk about how to choose the right one for you. First up is cost. Generally, if you buy your Rolex from an AD, a Jubilee will add about $200 to the price. Grey market price differences can be as much as $2,000. Your budget will have to be considered when making the decision.
If you are looking for a stainless steel sport watch like a diver or chronograph, you don’t have an option. You will get it with the Oyster bracelet.
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This is what you want for a watch that may see some rugged wear. A GMT Master II is available with either bracelet. If that is the watch you seek, consider how often you will wear it and in what kinds of situations. If it’s going to be your travel companion, lean toward the Oyster. You will need the added robustness.
Let’s move on to dress watches. The Jubilee certainly adds elegance, class, and bling. If this is going to be your “dress-to-impress” watch, worn to important business meetings, weddings, and other special events, the Jubilee is likely the one you want. It will spend a lot of time in the box where it is protected and be an incredible accessory for your best outfits.
If you are the type who rarely wears a suit or has occasion to dress up, go with the Oyster. It is a great-looking bracelet and looks good on even the dressier Rolexes. It will hold up better, especially if you wear your Rolex to work daily and on nights out.
Scratches are going to happen to everyday timepieces, and the Oyster does a much better job of hiding them. In terms of comfort, yes, the Jubilee feels better to most watch enthusiasts, but it’s not a huge difference, and the Oyster does sit nicely on the wrist.
I’m not a Rolex guy, but if I were, given my love of dive watches and how often I wear them, I would go with the Oyster. That’s just me. Your choice will depend on your needs and tastes. Now that you’ve got the lowdown on the Oyster and Jubilee, you are prepared to choose wisely. Go for it.
Conclusion
The Rolex catalog is filled with reliable, accurate, and beautiful watches of every type. In addition to colors, movements, and complications, you have strap and bracelet choices.
The Oyster and Jubilee are the two most popular. Each is made to Rolex’s high standards and will compliment your timepiece nicely. Consider the details of each, try a few on, and then make an informed choice for a Rolex that you will love wearing.
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