The Look for Less – 11 of the Best Cheap Watches that Look Expensive

Haute Horlogerie is not just about the big players. There are many watch manufacturers out there focusing on mastering accessible luxury. This seismic shift has become apparent over the last decade and is the result of several factors, including consumer behaviours and major market forces. The truth is, the Gen-Z buyer desires value and authenticity over a name. Many modern-day collectors and young enthusiasts are seeking watches with a story behind their design. Whilst they may be price-conscious, they are interested in a brand’s legacy.

For enthusiasts like you and me, the desire to own a tangible piece of craftsmanship is more important than spending years on a waiting list for a watch you may never even acquire. And let’s not forget, the luxury watch market is somewhat bottlenecked. The demand for exclusive designs from the likes of Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet has not only created a whole lot of frustration, but it has also caused the secondary market to boom, with many models selling for double or triple their initial retail price.

The good news is that many established brands are putting an extra special focus on their core strengths, selling their entry-level watches with a side order of “legacy”. This is where this guide is going to help you. If you’re searching for the first rung of the horological ladder to place your foot on, but have no idea where to start, we have some awesome watches awaiting your approval. From German minimalist designs to Japanese daily beaters to Swiss starter watches, all the brands on this list have managed to create wallet-friendly designs (under $3000) with that all-important luxury look. Let’s go!

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time

Seiko watches from the Presage collection, particularly those from the Cocktail Time family, punch above their weight in terms of perceived value. They may not be able to compete with the upper echelons of Swiss horology, but they certainly possess a level of craftsmanship that gives you that sense of value for money. Seiko is a Japanese watch brand that rose to fame with its quartz technology and its revolutionary Spring Drive movement. This Cocktail Time reference SRPK48, however, features neither of these two. Instead, it is powered by a 23-jewel automatic movement that performs at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour, providing a power reserve of 42 hours.

The dial of the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch is the centrepiece and the primary reason for its luxurious appearance. Its golden-brown dial with radial gradations mimics the look of a freshly poured, bubbling, effervescent Half-and-Half cocktail. The two-tone display begins as a rich golden hue at the centre. It gradually melds into a darkened burnt chocolate brown colour around the periphery of the dial, its pressed pattern creating a sunburst texture. Look closer, and it even looks as though the drink is held behind a frosted drinking glass.  

Though its price tag sits below the $1k umbrella, its gold PVD-coated stainless steel case and bracelet could have you fooled. The applied hands and hour markers are also executed in a matching gold finish and are razor sharp in profile. Finally, Seiko puts its 4R35 movement on show through an exhibition caseback, celebrating its hand-finished decoration through the base of the watch.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono

Like so many of Hamilton’s watches, the Khaki Aviation series has a reputation for looking more expensive than it is. These pilot watches are very reasonably priced and have a distinctive look that can be picked out from across a crowded room. This Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono watch is dressed in rich blue hues and is a faithful recreation of a much earlier military chronograph from the 1970s. The British Royal Air Force used these tool watches, so it’s great to see that some important features have been carried over into the modern iterations.

The Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Mechanical Chrono watch boasts an impressive level of detail. The bicompax layout of its chronograph sub-counters keeps the dial looking legible and straightforward. Meanwhile, all the essential information is delivered via a coating of white luminous material for enhanced readability at night. But what’s most important here is that Hamilton does not skimp on the fundamentals. The case is a robust and sturdy stainless steel construction with a sapphire front and a diameter of 40mm.

Now that the basics are covered, let’s take a look at the manual winding Calibre H-51-Si movement sitting inside. One of the most important aspects of a mechanical watch to some connoisseurs is the beauty of an authentically engineered hand-wound movement – a chance to indulge in a ritualistic sequence each night or morning that connects the wearer to the watch as it winds up. Aside from its 60-hour power reserve and precise chronograph functions, the movement comprises a silicone balance spring that is resistant to magnetic damage – a component that you’ll often see in some of the industry’s finest mechanical timepieces.

Squale Matic S Light Blue Rubber

Squale produces some incredibly stylish but affordable dive watches. In fact, dive tools are the brand’s forte, and so is its mission to keep costs as low as possible for the consumer. First and foremost, there are some features I have to point out about the Matic S watch’s build quality. This is not your standard budget diver by any stretch of the imagination. This aqua-blue model has a professional-grade water-resistant capability of 600M. That’s the kind of water resistance you’d expect to find on a serious, high-end dive watch.

The Squale Matic S watch is crafted from 316L stainless steel, a standard for all quality watches. However, it boasts a unique symmetrical brushed effect across its surface that even continues into the inside of the lugs. If you’ve ever taken a close look at a luxury steel sports watch, you may recall the interplay between light and shadow when a case is executed to such a high standard. Squale definitely scores a home run on that front. This level of attention to detail is enhanced all the more by a beautiful domed sapphire crystal glass, a bright blue sunray dial, an attractive two-tone enamel finish on the bezel, and a reliable Sellita SW200-1 Elaboré Grade movement for good measure.

Seiko 5 Sports SNXS Series

We’ve already talked about how Seiko’s Presage Cocktail Time watch series is full of budget-friendly dress watches despite the promise of uncompromised materials and technology. The Seiko 5 Sports SNXS is no different. This range of rugged sports tools offers the consumer so much bang for buck, including tried and true movements, visually attractive designs, and a vertically integrated approach to watchmaking.

This Seiko 5 Sports SNXS has a sunray brushed deep blue dial that begs for attention. The light bounces off the surface of the dial, creating the illusion of depth and dimension in a way that dials made by the likes of Rolex and Omega do. What’s more, the brushed and polished surfaces of the model’s steel case and bracelet indicate a high level of manufacturing. With the Seiko 5 Sports watches, you get a sense of retro proportions, similar to the steel sports watches of yesteryear. A 37.5mm diameter is plenty enough for those with slender wrists, while a curved Hardlex crystal front draws the proportions of the watch in even further.

Similar to the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time watch we featured earlier in this guide, Seiko puts the movement on show through an exhibition caseback. Although the movement isn’t exactly decorated elaborately, the opportunity to observe the inner workings of the watch is still a great feature to own in a watch costing less than $500.

Tissot PRX

The perception of luxury in a watch like the Tissot PRX comes from its clever design and its use of high-quality materials. To start with, the PRX is Tissot’s more affordable version of a high-end sports watch. It can compete in this category because there aren’t many other brands offering anything similar for the same price point. Tissot takes the shaped case, the textured dial, and the integrated bracelet and slams a very affordable price tag on it. Most models from the series cost less than $1k.

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The key feature of this Tissot PRX watch is its yellow gold PVD-coated stainless steel case, which evokes the splendour and indulgence of the gold Royal Oaks of yesteryear, innovated by no other than the legendary Gerald Genta himself. Tissot does a remarkable job applying a satin-brushed finish to the surface of this case, yet the polished bevels and facets of the integrated bracelet dynamically catch the light. This watch screams affordable luxury. Tissot’s waffle-effect dial is one of the PRX’s signature features (AKA the “Clous de Paris” dial pattern). In this design, blue is the chosen colour to perpetuate its three-dimensional aesthetic.

Of course, Tissot selects some excellent materials for this sports watch, including a sapphire glass front and a Swiss-crafted movement with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. So, if you want all the allure and sporty elegance of the Nautilus and Royal Oak, but haven’t got the budget for either, the Tissot PRX deserves to be the next watch you check out after reading this guide.  

Longines Spirit

The Spirit series is Longines’ collection of watches dedicated to pioneers of the air, land, and sea, and it perfectly bridges the gap between a mid-range watch and a genuine luxury timepiece. A glance at this watch would suggest it would retail for far more than it does. Take, for example, its COSC-certified movement sitting inside a robust yet compact 37mm stainless steel case. The movement has been independently certified by Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres and must pass a series of rigorous processes before it can become a designated chronometer. This means it also guarantees an accuracy of -4 to +6 seconds per day.

Many high-end watch collectors consider the COSC certification a non-negotiable mark of high quality in a timepiece. Meanwhile, this Callibre L888.4 also features a silicone balance spring and is resistant to temperature fluctuations.

The top of the Longines Spirit watch case features a satin-brushed finish, whilst the brushed and polished techniques applied to the links of the bracelet create a sumptuous two-tone effect, further enhancing a feel of luxury. Underneath a domed sapphire crystal glass front is a beautiful blue sunray dial with applied numerals that have been treated with lashings of Super-LumiNova.

Above all, however, it is Longine’s brand heritage and autonomy that serve this watch with such a charming and luxurious presence. The brand’s resources and expertise deliver products that meet strict Swiss quality standards, making this Spirit watch a legitimate value-for-money watch that you should seriously consider adding to your collection.

Junghans Max Bill Quartz

Junghans watches have an incredible design philosophy, so much so that it shines most in designs like the Max Bill series. The timepieces strip everything back to basics, displaying only the essential elements of a dial and perfectly capturing the beauty of the brand’s Bauhaus design heritage and its seminal art movement.

The watches from this collection were designed by a legendary Swiss artist, Max Bill, whom Junghans began commissioning during the 1960s. Unsurprisingly, the designs were an instant hit, making an impact with their clean lines, minimalism, and clarity. Today, Max Bill watches look just as fresh and relevant, with several elegant designs to choose from, including this clean white number, featuring discreet five-minute increments around a minute scale and slender straight hands inside a bezel-less case.

Junghans completes this watch on a quality latte-brown leather band and fits a quartz movement into the case to keep its price so affordable. Another distinctive design feature that serves to reduce manufacturing costs is its domed crystal glass, forged from plexiglass. Though not as scratch-resistant as sapphire crystal, plexiglass has become a signature design feature of a Junghans watch and creates a beautiful, magnifying curve across the dial.

Laco Pilot Watch Friedrichshafen Erbstüeck

It is down to the art of artificial ageing that gives this Laco Friedrichshafen Erbstüeck pilot watch such charm and character. It’s the single most important factor to its success and one of the reasons why it looks like a covetable collector’s piece. Artisans at Laco have had to apply a combination of techniques to create the realistic scratches, discoloration, and patina you see across the dial’s surface. By doing so, the brand achieves this unique lived-in aesthetic that is both raw and rugged all at the same time.

The luminous material on the hands and 5-minute increments around the dial are made to look like they have discoloured over time. In other places, the treated lume surfaces look cracked. Of course, none of this would mean a thing if it weren’t for the brand’s history in developing “B-Uhr” watches for the German Luftwaffe in the 1940s. The watch features the oversized onion crown, reminiscent of the brand’s vintage models, a reliable Swiss-made movement, and a domed sapphire crystal glass front that creates a beautiful distortion effect around the edges of the display.

Oris 01 733 7792 4194-07 4 19 64FC Aquis Date Diamonds 36.50mm

Oris is the Swiss king of affordability. It also pledges to create mechanical watches exclusively – each one characterised by a customised red rotor. This specific model features diamonds for the hour markers, creating a luxurious edge to the brand’s flagship dive watch. The Oris Aquis watch displays the time against a rich black surface, with hands having been given a generous dose of luminous material.

Although engineered for life underwater, the Oris Aquis Date watch is seldom worn solely as a dive watch, just as the Rolex Sub is worn predominantly as a status symbol. The Aquis Date looks almost too good to take underwater, with its scintillating baguette-cut diamonds for hour markers and glossy black ceramic unidirectional bezel. Still, don’t let this more luxurious take on the dive watch fool you. Oris equips this with everything you need in a dive tool and prices it most affordably.

The 24mm steel model is perfect for the slender wrist and boasts a high-quality finish, with brushed and polished elements that enhance the shape of its case. Oris describes the Aquis watch as a “real watch for real people,” and that message is definitely felt in this design. The brand equips the watch with a mechanically-driven heart that is put on show through an exhibition caseback – a key value proposition for a watch at this price point.

Raymond Weil Millesime

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Raymond Weil is another brand that uses finishing techniques and materials typically found on watches of a much higher price. The manufacturer has won several prestigious awards for this very reason, including the “Challenge Prize” at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG).

This Raymond Weil Millesime watch boasts a stunning sector dial in blue, with a vertically brushed centre, a smooth hour track, a snailed outer minute ring, and a recessed sub-seconds counter at 6 o’clock. Suffice it to say, the attention to detail in this design is second to none, evoking the look and feel of a much more expensive watch than its $2k price ticket suggests.

In addition to the intricate layers of its dial, the Millesime watch features a high-quality finish on the case and bezel. The juxtaposition between the satin brushed surfaces and smooth polished elements is dynamic and is enhanced by a scratch-resistant and glare-proof glassbox sapphire crystal. Lastly, exquisite details like the brand’s customised W-shaped oscillating weight and other intricate workings of the movement are put on show through an exhibition caseback.

Nivada Grenchen Black Ceramic Meteorite on Bracelet

Take multiple high-end, premium features and combine them with a sleek black silhouette. What do you get? You get a stealthy ceramic number with a meteoric dial, closely inspired by the Royal Oak by AP. The Nivada Grenchen Meteorite watch in scratch-resistant black ceramic will defy the laws of physics, retaining its youthful look for years and years to come, and the best bit? It costs no more than $2k.

The most impactful element of this watch has to be that meteor dial, which picks up flecks of colour and tone like a magnet attracting tiny metallic debris. The modern matte black finish of the case sets this meteor dial apart from anything else like it on the market. Its unique crystalline patterns are a wonder to admire. You can trace the many lines and inclusions across the surface of the dial as if you were observing the nuances of the cosmos.

This is the F77 design, which pays homage to the iconic “sport chic” watch of the 1970s and features the much-loved integrated bracelet design. For its deceptively low price, you even get a Swiss-made movement from Soprod, all wrapped up in a blacked-out build that immediately evokes the exclusivity of some of its most famous predecessors.

Conclusion

Now you’ve seen the magic, you know the secrets behind some of the world’s most successful mid-priced watch brands. The next logical step is to buy one. Owning an affordable watch is not about buying cheap imitations. You can acquire a masterpiece in design and horological value without it costing a bomb or compromising on your own values.

All the suggestions in this list prove that the top one percent does not entirely govern the future of watchmaking. New generations of watch collectors are influencing the direction that horology is taking, and with more affordable yet luxurious watches to opt for than ever before, it seems only natural that today’s enthusiasts want to spend less money and own more watches.