Owning a dominant position on the primary and secondary market, and commanding name recognition second to none, there is no brand in the world as immediately recognizable.
Admirers may not be able to name the model, but they’ll know the brand at a glance.
A potent combination of exceptional workmanship, horological history, and signature aesthetics make Rolex a leader in the watch world, and there’s no doubt you know the Rolex name, even if you’re new to luxury timepieces.
Let’s explore a few of Rolex’s most popular models, explaining their enduring popularity.
Submariner
The Submariner’s place in modern horology is undisputed.
Introduced in 1954, Rolex’s Submariner was the first wristwatch to offer waterproofing to 100 meters, a horological milestone that helped cement its legacy of adventure and excitement.
Durable enough for professional divers, the Submariner was and is more than a simple tool: though typically unadorned and undecorated, the clean lines and legibility-first markings and dial offer an elegant simplicity that defined the styling of modern dive watches.
And of course, from Sean Connery’s Bond to David Beckham, the Submariner has proven itself on dry land, too.
Dressed up or down, wearing its signature bracelet or perhaps a NATO-style strap, this watch is just as much at home on a drive down the Amalfi coast as it is in a boardroom in Manhattan, and always ready for what matters to you.
Timeless, classic, and arguably the most famous timepiece in the world, Rolex’s Submariner isn’t a watch – it’s an icon.
Datejust
The Datejust, debuting in 1945, is another shining gem in Rolex’s crown. The first self-winding chronometer to feature a date window on the dial, its horological impact is so deep and so pervasive that it defined the “new” normal.
Now, a date window in the dial of an automatic timepiece is de rigueur; then, this was innovation as its most cutting-edge.
And like the Submariner, the Datejust defined the aesthetics of gentlemen’s watches from its introduction forward. A classic, elegant case with a weight and heft and shine that reflects quality.
A simple, legible dial that’s sophisticatedly sleek and undeniably handsome: that’s the challenge the Datejust lays down for its competition – if indeed it has any.
And while the Datejust is obviously designed to keep track of time, its timelessness is what keeps cognoscenti and casual buyers alike transfixed.
Many designs will fall out of favor in a year or two – some rare examples last a decade or more – but the Datejust is as beautiful now as it was almost a century ago.
Daytona
Heart-pounding, adrenaline-fueled excitement and durability that invites a grueling test: that’s what classic endurance racing at Daytona was all about.
Rain or shine, Daytona was as deadly as it was cool. And in 1963, Rolex revealed the Cosmograph Daytona, a watch every bit as iconic as the race it was named for.
Designed first and foremost to keep track of lap times, pit stops, and the critical details of endurance racing, this automatic chronograph’s aesthetics and performance are the stuff of legend.
Tough enough for real endurance racing, but smart enough to grace the wrist of the coolest of the cool, wearing the Daytona places you in enviable company.
Steve McQueen, Brad Pitt, Eric Clapton: the Daytona isn’t as much a status symbol as a calling card. Bold and adventurous, refined and discerning: this timepiece doesn’t ask for admission – it announces that you’re already there.
GMT-Master II
If you were a professional pilot in the 1980s, especially if you flew for Pan Am, you would have been familiar with the Rolex GMT-Master II.
Back then, wristwatches were still tools, and pilots needed not just precise timekeeping, but cosmopolitan options like the ability to immediately – and simultaneously – read local and Greenwich Mean Time (GMT).
And though the smartphone has largely obviated the need for a timepiece, those in the know know better.
Sharing the timeless appeal of the Submariner and Datejust, the GMT-Master II is the traveller’s watch, a sign of a life lived in the fast lane. And like the Autobahn’s left lane, it’s best reserved for the quick, the powerful, and the effortlessly elegant. A Ferrari in a world of Fords, the GMT-Master II stands out.
The people who’ve made this watch their own – celebrities like John Meyer, Tom Holland, and Duane Johnson – know that while there are much more expensive timepieces out there, there are none that carry the impact of the GMT-Master II.
Oyster Perpetual Day-Date
Even those new to the watch world are probably familiar with the classic good looks of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date.
Immediately recognizable for its day window at 12 o’clock, as well as its use of Roman numerals on the dial, this refined and understated Rolex is a choice that watch-world insiders and casual fans can agree on.
Continuing the brand’s tradition of simple case design, clean lines, and immediate legibility, the Day-Date never feels cluttered or rushed.
Instead, it carries a luxurious stillness that has time to spare. It’s unhurried by the day-to-day, owning time as it keeps time. The Day-Date is, I think, the gentleman’s Rolex, and whether you pair it with a linen shirt on vacation or a smart suit for a meeting, you’ll be remembered for it.
Conclusion
Many luxury brands stand out for the ambassadors, sharp marketing campaigns, or trendy fashion.
But they’re not Rolex.
Rolex built its brand on quality, craftsmanship, and innovation. And while certainly no stranger to advertising or fashion, a Day-Date or Datejust or GMT-Master II isn’t a watch you buy to chase clout but rather to cement your place at the front of the line.
If you’re searching for a watch that makes a statement without ever begging for attention, Rolex is a brand you can trust.
While you can find the heart of high-end horology beating away in Switzerland, cognoscenti know not to overlook the French. Watch insiders will probably be familiar with names like Breguet and Audemars Piguet, brands with French (or truly French-adjacent) origins.
But for reasons that are clear, many luxury watch manufacturers connect themselves as closely as they can with the Swiss.
Today, I’d like to draw your attention to some undeniably French watch brands, illustrating how your search for luxury shouldn’t be confined to the land of clockmakers.
Let’s get started.
Yema
Founded by Henry Louis Belmont in Besançon, France, in 1948, Yema has a long tradition of making timepieces for adventurers. From the Superman to the Flygraf, from space to the North Pole, you’ll find Yema has staked its claim for French horology anywhere men dare to explore.
Once owned by Seiko and Beckensteiner, Yema has now returned to its roots under Montres Ambre de Morteau, making it solidly Gallic again.
Expect elegant design in field watches like the capable Flygraf, built on a titanium chassis that’s as light as it is comfortable.
Easily one of the most attractive field watches at any price, Yema’s Flygraf is a testament to value: exacting materials, meticulous precision, and experience everywhere danger is commonplace.
Similar aesthetic choices, and just as much attention to wearability, comfort, and refined taste, appear in the Granvelle CMM.20. Ultra-slim rotors and case design mean that the Granvelle disappears on your wrist, ready when you need it, but not forcing itself into your attention.
For discerning gentlemen looking for a watch that stands out while not being loud, a timepiece that says a lot with its silence, look no further than Yema.
Michel Herbelin
At just 26, an independent-minded Michel Herbelin began crafting watches in Charquemont, a village located in the heart of the Jura Mountains in France.
Working out of his parents’ house, Herbelin’s vision – to restore French watchmaking’s pride of place – continues to drive the company and his two sons: Jean-Claude and Pierre-Michel.
What can you expect from Michel Herbelin?
Stunning precision, sophistication, and timeless elegance.
It’s refreshing to see high horology really embracing women’s designs. A quick glance at Herbelin’s collections reveals a deep catalogue of rectangular-faced Antares, each wearing an exquisitely crafted dial, and an impressive range of bracelets and straps for these models.
Gentlemen aren’t left out in the cold, either. The strikingly elegant Inspiration, especially with its deep blue dial and understated sword hands and hour markers, makes an indelible first impression.
And in a consumer culture obsessed with the popular, choosing the Inspiration is an inspired decision.
Baltic
A newcomer to the luxury scene in France, Etienne Malec’s Baltic Watches reflect his father’s deep-seated love of horology, and that passion is front and center in this watchmaker’s collections.
Rarely does one house produce so many eye-catching designs, and if you’re on the hunt for a lesser-known alternative to big names in the luxury industry, look no further.
From the ultra-legible, no-nonsense Hermetique Tourer, available in a wide range of dial colors and matching straps, to the refined HMS, to “classics” like the Aquacaphe, Baltic knows the look of luxury.
That’s not flash or bling; Baltic’s designs draw on a clear sense of purpose translated into action, and whether you need a timepiece for dress that can serve just as ably in causal roles, or demand a precision instrument for the field, there’s a watch that’s a reflection of your esprit among their offerings.
And to my eye, the subdued, textured dial of the Aquascaphe, paired with its minimalist aesthetic, makes this perhaps the diver’s watch to own. That’s saying a lot for a timepiece competing with the likes of the Submariner and Aqua Terra.
Lip
In 1867, Emmanuel Lipmann founded a small watchmaking workshop in Besançon, beginning a horological journey that continues today. One look at LIP’s catalogue reveals a situation similar to Baltic: there are so many spectacular timepieces that it’s hard to choose just one.
The Himalaya Calendrier Automatique is the kind of watch every gentleman craves: sophisticated, yes, but ready for action, too. The deep blue dial, simple hands, and red accents are less ornaments and more a testament to clever, legible design.
This is a watch capable enough to trust with your life when summiting impossible peaks (it was – in 1950, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal reached the summit of Annapurna wearing these timepieces). It’s also perfect for a sunset cocktail party with friends by the sea.
For those who prefer pilot’s watches, the rugged Type 14 is nothing short of heart-stopping, and as with the Baltic Aquascaphe, that matte dial finish is marvelous.
Dressier occasions are met where they live by the Churchill and its many variations in dial, case, and strap. Among them, you’ll find the Churchill T18 (ref. 671000), offering the classic elegance and timeless value that the discerning demand.
Pequignet
Emile Pequignet founded this watch house in Morteau, France, in 1973. Since then, it’s been producing timepieces that rival anything you’ll find in Zurich for precision manufacture and sheer aesthetics.
My two favorites are easy choices for refined elegance: the Attitude Hallmark Viper’s Head (ref. 9060313PV) and the Royale Origine (ref. 9010437).
The Attitude is something very hard to pull off: minimalist elegance that signals taste. There’s something about that opaline-white dial and subdued hands and markers that my eye can’t let go.
And from a drive down the Adriatic coast to a weekend in Malta, this watch somehow manages to look effortlessly elegant in anything short of a tuxedo.
By contrast, the Royal Origine’s intricate details, striking blue hands, and elegant case design is perfect for everything from business casual to the opera, and no one, no matter what they’re wearing or how deep their horological savvy, will fail to be impressed.
Serica
Serica was born from the creative minds of Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette in 2019. And while this watch brand has a very limited collection, what you’ll find is nothing short of stunning.
The 5303 Diving Chronometer is an effective counterpoint to the Rolex Submariner – by any metric, the bar against which all dive watches are measured.
Rather than double down on the Submariner’s good looks, Serica took the 5303 in a different direction: a unique dial design that enhances legibility through simplicity.
By moving the hour markers toward the center of the dial, the hour hand is brought into closer communion with the indicators, making instant readability a snap.
And the oversized crown, bruised case, and mesh bracelet mean that this watch looks just as sharp for work as it does for play – something quintessentially French.
Another Serica timepiece making waves in Gallic horology is the 6190, a field watch with military origins, it neither tries to hide nor can.
Simple legibility, uncluttered elegance of purpose married to design: that’s what Serica offers with the 6190, and from afternoons in vineyards to dinner on the Champs d’Elysees, this watch is for style-conscious but not trend-driven ladies and gentlemen with a cultivated sense of taste.
Conclusion
In horological circles, “luxury” and “Switzerland” are more or less synonyms, and that stands to reason. Swiss watchmaking stands out for its mechanical excellence, its rich history, and its brand recognition.
Despite this, the style-forward French are repositioning themselves to recover Gallic horology’s well-respected roots, and companies like Serica, Pequignet, Baltic, and Yema are demonstrating that they have what it takes to compete in luxury watchmaking.
If you’re searching for a new timepiece, it’s worth travelling the path less taken and exploring what these watch houses have to offer.
In the age of the smartphone, most of us don’t need a watch.
And with the advent of quartz technology in 1969, the Seiko Astron debuted on Christmas Day that year – a real test for the watch industry emerged. If inexpensive, relatively simple quartz movements could keep exact time, why emphasize watch-making mastery, tiny gears, minute springs, and complex mechanical complications?
Once, these were the only way to make a watch that could, for instance, act as a stopwatch and keep track of the date.
But with the digital technology of the 80s on full display in watches like the Casio G-Shock DW-5000C or the Seiko “Arnie” H558-5009, measuring time accurately was never easier, more user-friendly, or less mechanically complicated.
A period of soul-searching, experimentation, and adaptation followed in the 90s, and the horological world was forced to question the value – and future – of old technology: exacting,expensive, mechanical design.
I’m delighted to report that the answer was luxury.
What separates a style-less device that keeps track of the hours, minutes, and seconds of your day from a statement of aesthetics and sophisticated luxury, what makes a luxurious timepiece more than a “watch,” is a transcendence of simple time-telling.
And especially for gentlemen, a wrist watch is one of the few remaining accessories that allow personal expression in a professional environment.
Let’s take a closer look at the icons of style, my picks for the top 10 most luxurious watch brands in the world today.
Rolex
Founded in 1905 as Wilsdorf and Davis, Rolex became the brand we now know by 1920 through a change in names and location.
Headquartered in Geneva since then, Rolex is the brand in horology, easily outselling its rivals year after year and decade after decade. And from horological innovations like the first waterproof watch to the Perpetual rotor self-winding mechanism, what Rolex unveiled, everyone else adopted.
High-mechanical precision, exquisite craftsmanship, and rugged sophistication define Rolex. And thanks to screen legends like James Bond and icons of cool like Steve McQueen, models like the Submariner are immediately recognizable.
Indeed, the right Rolex on your wrist is a marker of taste, a subtle hint that you know how to spend money on what counts, not on fads or gaudy displays of wealth.
Omega
Founded by Louis Brandt in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1848, and adopting the Omega name in 1984, this watch company has an enviable reputation in horology.
Responsible for the moonwatch – the Omega Speedmaster worn by Neil Armstrong on his lunar mission – brand ambassadors like George Clooney or Daniel Craig demonstrate the timeless appeal of their designs.
In addition to the moonwatch, models like the Seamaster and Aqua Terra communicate effortless style, discerning taste, and concern for craftsmanship and quality that set Omega apart from fashion brands.
An Omega says that you appreciate luxury, but are mature enough to avoid ostentation and self-restrained enough to draw a distinction between luxury and conspicuous consumption.
And while perpetually chasing Rolex’s market dominance, watch aficionados will agree that Omega plays second fiddle to no one.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe enjoys the distinction of being the oldest, family-owned Genevan watch manufacturer, connecting the latest innovations to horological tradition in an unbroken line.
As much a maker of movements as watches simply, Patek Philippe is responsible for some of the world’s most complicated mechanical timepieces.
And while complexity and luxury aren’t synonyms in most cases, in horology, the attention to detail, meticulous design, and hand-worked movements behind the dial of a Patek are testaments to refined luxury.
Stunning models like the 6159G and 5236P, as well as understatedly elegant options like the 5227G mark Patek Philippe, set it apart from the fold. And it’s not just that watch enthusiasts will recognize what you’re wearing; it’s that even people who don’t care about timepieces will find these designs eye-catching and sophisticated.
Breitling
The story of Breitling begins in 1884, in Saint-Imier, Switzerland, when Leon Breitling founded his watch company. Since then, the company has changed hands, and the Breitling name has become synonymous with refined aviator watches that pair mechanical precision with high style.
And from the Top Time to the Navitimer, horological cognoscenti can wax eloquent about the movements, quality, and craft behind the name. The former has graced the wrist of 007; the latter is a favorite choice of Dave Chappelle, John Travolta, and Charlize Theron.
Elegant quality and impeccable attention to detail are the beating heart of Breitling’s designs, and whatever your particular tastes, you’ll find a model that reflects your self-expression.
IWC
IWC has a history nearly as complicated as its most impressive movements. Headquartered in Schaffhausen, Switzerland, IWC is legendary for its pilot-inspired watches like the Portugieser and Portofino.
Luxury, married to an impressive legacy of military pilots’ watches, means that you can expect a clean aesthetic that leans toward legibility. But if you think this means bare-bones, just check out the amazing Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 or its close relative, the IW501001.
Stunning mechanical precision, eye-catching designs that just ooze class: that’s what you can expect from IWC.
These sophisticated yet playful designs are favored by the likes of John Malkovich, Bradley Cooper, and Quentin Tarantino, as well as young talents such as Kyle Soller and Anthony Boyle.
Breguet
Unless you possess a deep familiarity with horology, you’re probably unfamiliar with Breguet. This French watchmaker, founded in 1775, is behind some of the most important innovations in wrist watch history, including its invention.
With that rich history, you’d be forgiven for thinking that Breguet could rest on its laurels. But far from it: constant innovation, an obsession with beauty, and award after award driven by current designs, not respect for tradition.
To my eye, Breguet is impossible to beat for elegance, and catching a glimpse of a deep blue enamel dial tells me immediately that whoever’s wearing one is discerning and polished.
Breguet makes many watches; for me, there is only one: the Classique 5177 Grand Feu Blue Enamel. Unrivalled in its elegance, and grounded in a history so deep that the design of its hour, minute, and second hands are called “Breguet” by the industry broadly, and you get a sense of how wearing this watch places you apart from the crowd.
Bonaparte, Victoria, Churchill, Bugatti, Rachmaninoff, and Dre: you’ll find these watches on the wrists of legends, not lackeys.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin, like Breguet, draws on a watchmaking history that traces all the way back to 1755. Revered – not just known – for their mechanical complications, Vacheron Constantin isn’t just a fashionable choice: it’s a knowledgeable decision that reflects a sense of taste beyond trends and fashion that’s anything but fast.
Models like the Overseas Dual Time or Chronograph, the Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and Historiques 222 in both gold and stainless steel have graced the wrists of Daniel Kaluuya, Brad Pitt, Steph Curry, and Alexander Skarsgard, among others.
Why? You can certainly spend more than you would on a Vacheron Constantin, and you could certainly choose a more popular brand. But then that’s not what sets those who wear these watches apart. Instead, it’s taste, refinement, and a real appetite for luxury that’s not out of reach for the rich, but rather a marker of quiet distinction, like Breguet.
Audemars Piguet
Founded by Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet in 1875, and currently headquartered in Le Brassus, Switzerland, Audemars Piguet is another brand that’s not front and center precisely because its clientele is discerning.
Quincy Jones knew a few things about style and sophistication. Travis Scott is nothing less than cool, dropping the temperature several degrees just by walking into the room. And Serena Williams is no one’s marketing ploy or billboard.
What unites them? Their love affair with the Royal Oak.
No one familiar with horology can mistake it for anything else than the flagship Audemars Piguet. Refined, effortlessly cool, and unmistakably “insider” luxury, the Royal Oak has been described as “Hollywood’s favorite watch.”
But don’t overlook the unforgettable Code 11.59. That’s the Audemars Piguet foremost in my mind, and for those searching for discreet luxury, this collection deserves attention.
Seiko, especially Grand Seiko
Seiko doesn’t normally make the cut when you think luxury, but that’s mostly because the company is better known for its affordable collections like the 5 Sports or Cocktail Time. I own and wear both – and if you haven’t taken a closer look at the dials and designs of the Cocktail Time, you might be in for a shock.
But here I want to single out the Grand Seiko, a Japanese expression of wearable elegance. Consider the Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary Limited Edition, an impossibly sophisticated expression of taste, or the Grand Seiko SLGH007, sporting a wood-grain black dial that captures “the natural beauty of annual growth rings of cedar trees in Shizukuishi Shrine near Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi.”
True, it’s not a celebrity watch – at least not outside of Japan – but then, for some people, that’s a feature, not a bug.
Why follow when you can lead?
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Last, but most certainly not least, I’d like to mention Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Founded by Antoine LeCoultre in 1833, this Swiss company is as well known for its meticulously designed and crafted movements as it is for its timepieces. And with a history almost equal to Breguet – and that’s not something I say lightly – Jaeger-LeCoultre simply can’t be passed over when considering top luxury brands.
I’m not sure that there’s a watchmaker that offers so many beautiful timepieces, and you could probably pick one at random and fall in love immediately. But I’d recommend you take a close look at the Reverso, Polaris, and Master Control collections.
Jay-Z has been seduced by the Reverso, while Benedict Cumberbatch prefers the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel in white gold. And Timothee Chalemet can’t get enough of his 33mm Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Second.
Conclusion
Luxury isn’t just about how much you pay for something.
It’s about style, discernment, and value.
And while high-mechanical complications, rare metals, and diamonds can make any design expensive, they can’t replicate true luxury. That comes instead from a heady combination of history and innovation, substance married to style, and discernment and sophistication that eschews fast fashion.
Wear one of these watches for a day or two, and you’ll see exactly what I mean
James Bond isn’t just a beloved agent of His Majesty’s Secret Service: he’s a style icon for men across generations and a watch-brand ambassador like no other. And from lounging by the pool to elegant soirees, 007 shows us how alluring the right timepiece can be, no matter the occasion.
And Bond doesn’t just demonstrate what to wear – he shows you how to wear these watches.
If you want to look like you’re always ready for action, a sophisticated party, or a romantic evening with a stunning partner, 007 has a watch option you’ll love to make your own.
Let’s take a closer look at Bond’s iconic watches across the franchise.
Gruen Precision 510
Dr. No’s introduction of Sean Connery as Bond is immediately recognizable. Suave, seductive, and in control, Bond deals a few hands of baccarat – specifically the Chemin de Fer variant – allowing him to play tete-a-tete against the stunning Sylvia Trench.
“Le Cercle’s” guests are impossibly elegant, and Bond pairs his black tux with a Gruen Precision 510 on an onyx fabric strap.
The simple, clearly legible Gruen is more than a dress watch: it’s a field watch for high society, a timepiece that reveals the man of action beneath all that luxury. Understated in its size – the case measures just 34mm – the 510 features a manually-wound 17 jewel movement, a brushed case, and Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9.
Manufactured from 1958 to 1972 by the now-defunct American watchmaker, 510s in running order fetch prices starting in the high $700s. And while perhaps not as iconic as the Omegas and Rolexes of later films, the Gruen Precision 510 is the most elegant of the franchise’s wristwatches.
Bond’s penchant for action means that a dress watch just won’t do – at least not while he’s in the heat of things. And reflecting Ian Fleming’s own taste in timepieces, the Rolex Submariner Ref. 6538 was chosen as a working timepiece for 007.
The 6538 is the Submariner, and its distinctive stainless case, dial, and unguarded but oversized crown, hit just the right notes as the Bond theme plays in films like Dr. No, From Russia with Love, and Goldfinger. Paired with a wide variety of straps and bracelets, the 6538 demonstrates its flexibility from scene to scene and movie to movie.
Rugged and ready, but a far cry from a laborer’s timepiece, the Rolex Submariner was an essential bit of kit for Bond, often customized by Q-branch in ways that allowed 007 to escape certain death.
Manufactured from 1956 to 1959, this model cemented the allure of the Submariner in the minds of the public. And iconic as it is, working models fetch prices easily into the six figures.
Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002
For the plot of Thunderball, Bond required a watch fitted with a Geiger counter, and Q-branch was happy to oblige with a modified Breitling Top Time Ref. 2002.
The film’s prop department heavily modified the case of the Breitling, providing it with a sturdy, massive case that’s perfectly fitting, given its purpose.
A black dial wearing tachometer markings and silver subdials at 3 and 9, makes this a striking wristwatch for more casual wear in the film, and it’s just as at home shooting clay pigeons as it is infiltrating a secret base underwater.
Unfortunately, as a unique piece, you can’t get your hands on the original, but a modern Top Time runs roughly $4,250.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 5513
The 6538 began Bond’s love affair with the Rolex Submariner, and he was more committed to this brand and model than any woman featured in the films.
On Her Majesty’s Secret Service found Lazenby wearing the (now) more contemporary 5513, often on an Oystersteel bracelet – and just as often equipped with powerful magnets, a buzz-saw bezel, and other upgrades courtesy of Q.
And while those added extras were pure movie magic, the 5513 was the real deal: a rugged, durable, no-nonsense tool that told the time with style to spare.
This Rolex, more than perhaps any other, has come to typify what we expect from a dive watch: a rotating bezel with minute increments marked up to 15, tan/gold markings on the dial and hands, and a chunky stainless steel case measuring a big 44mm, especially in 1974, when gentleman’s timepieces were almost always more svelte.
No longer produced, the 5513 in good shape can fetch upwards of $13,000, a testament to its lasting appeal.
In On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, Bond goes undercover, and his watch reflects that. Posing as a respected genealogist, Lazenby’s wrist introduced a more elegant Submariner, the stunning 6238.
Without downplaying Bond’s flair for adventure, this silver-faced chronograph in stainless steel on a matching, two-toned brushed and polished bracelet did something new: the red seconds hand was modified by Q-branch to serve as a compass, allowing 007 to find and infiltrate Blofeld’s secret lair in the Swiss Alps.
And while not as flashy as a buzz saw, that modification was no less essential for Bond’s mission.
Discontinued in 1968, this beautiful wrist watch showcased small subdials and all the bells and whistles you’d expect from a fine chronograph, and its undeniably cool vibe and manly aesthetics paved the way for the Daytona of legend.
Expect to pay somewhere in the neighborhood of $40,000 for a pristine example.
Hamilton’s Pulsar P2 2900
While automatic movements are the standard of luxury now, the 1970s witnessed the rise of quartz technology and some very forward-looking designs that sought to introduce wider audiences to high-end quartz watches.
Among them, count the Hamilton’s Pulsar P2 2900, a chunky wrist watch with a red LED display. On Roger Moore’s wrist in Live and Let Die, the Hamilton oozed high-tech with a sleek, futuristic design.
Billed as revolutionary, this quartz watch had no gears to wind, no springs to wear out, and required no tuning to achieve startling accuracy – just split-second time on demand.
That practical simplicity (despite the very real idiosyncrasies of setting the time) resonated with Bond’s readiness for action and sparked a brief challenge to the dominant position of high-mechanical horology.
Discontinued almost a lifetime ago, vintage P2s are available for as little as $500.
Seiko 0674 LC
Introduced in 1976, just in time for The Spy Who Loved Me, the Seiko 0674-5009 continued the trend toward futuristic design and quartz simplicity.
Worn by Roger Moore, this timepiece was more about pushing Q-type tech into the foreground, especially for a viewing public unfamiliar with horological developments at the time. Clean, forward-looking, and easy to read, the Seiko’s stainless case and bracelet looked like something 20 years in the future, leapfrogging traditional wrist-watch aesthetics.
Its functions included time, seconds, light, date, and weekday indicators, just what you need as you move from country to country and time zone to time zone, often in just hours.
Long since discontinued, the Seiko 0674 LC is available in good condition for roughly $450, and its retro appeal is still strong among fashion leaders.
Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar
While probably not a watch we would now consider fitting for the always-stylish Bond, Seiko’s M345 Memory Bank Calendar, like the 06774 LC, was a gesture toward emerging horological technology.
Quartz accuracy, and the bells and whistles it made possible, were still exciting and new when Moonraker debuted on screen, and the space-themed adventure demanded something more than analogue simplicity.
The M345 delivered this in spades, offering calendar and memory functions, as well as impeccable digital time. A rare watch in 1979, it’s even harder to find now, and working examples are difficult to come by.
Expect to pay a minimum of several hundred dollars for this wearable piece of Bond history.
Seiko 7549-7009 “Golden Tuna”
As Bond races the Russians to recover the British Automatic Targeting Attack Communicator (ATAC) from a sunken submarine in For Your Eyes Only, it’s only fitting that he be equipped with a capable, handsome dive watch. This 1981 film sees Seiko’s legendary “Golden Tuna,” a striking timepiece by any standard, on 007’s wrist.
Capable of saturation diving and sporting a quartz heart in a machined titanium case, the Golden Tuna is as rugged as it is attractive, much like Bond himself. Flashier than the Omegas and Rolexes that typically grace the silver screen, this wristwatch marries a professional-grade tool to an adventurous agent like almost nothing else.
And the eye-catching gold details, a clean diver’s style dial, and 600m water resistance combine to make this a quartz watch that tempts even the most die-hard fans of high mech.
If you’re tempted by the “Golden Guna,” you’re not alone, and rest assured that they keep immaculate time to this day. A quick search will find this legendary model at prices starting around $2,000.
Seiko H357 Duo Display
The early 80s witnessed plenty of love for Seiko timepieces in Bond films, and the H357 Duo Display graces 007’s wrist for most of the film in For Your Eyes Only.
And while showcasing what was unbelievable tech for the time, the H357 is the most understated and attractive of the digital watches Bond is equipped with in this period, matching his Q-branch modified Lotus for cool without missing a beat.
The H357 Duo Display, as its name suggests, offers both an analogue and digital display. Driven by a quartz movement, accurate time was reliably on hand while wearing this watch. The Seiko used in the film was reportedly modified by the prop team, so a perfect match with the original isn’t possible.
And as you’d expect, this model is hard to come by. Pristine examples command prices in the mid-$300s to high $400s, when you can find them.
Seiko G757 Sports 100
Roger Moore’s Bond was as loyal to Seiko as he was to Queen and country, and 1983’s Octopussy found 007 jousting again with the Russians and a nuclear threat.
Continuing the trend toward the high-tech, he was equipped with the amazing Seiko G757 Sports 100, tricked out by Q-branch to include a digital locator. An important tool for Bond’s mission, this Seiko receives more than its fair share of close-ups as he hunts down a Faberge egg.
Time, date, alarms, stopwatches: the digital G757 was a step in the direction of modern timepieces like the Casio G-Shock, and one glance at the divided digital dial makes their kinship obvious.
Rare and prized, authentic models of this watch still command prices in the neighborhood of $500, a hefty sum for a more than 40-year-old digital timepiece.
Seiko Chronograph White Dial 7A28-7020
Quartz technology was evolving rapidly in the early 1980s, and while digital displays were seen as the future, the Seiko Chronograph White Dial 7A28-7020 recaptured the look of analogue elegance with a stunning white dial and subdued sword hands showcased by a polished steel body.
Several subdials, the usual tachymeter markings, and pushers to actuate its features mark this watch out as special, and 007 makes full use of its undeniable good looks in A View to a Kill. From rescuing Stacey Sutton to seducing her in good time, Bond’s watch is every bit as precise, sexy, and capable as the spy himself.
Expect to pay a reasonable premium for this beautiful vintage watch, with pristine examples commanding prices in the mid-$600s.
Seiko H558
1985’s A View to a Kill offered its audience plenty of stunning Seikos, and the H558 continued the high-tech trend toward digital-analogue combinations with a look that’s just as fresh now as it was then. And while “quartz chic” may be something of an oxymoron these days, there’s no question that this vintage Seiko looks every bit the Bond watch.
Designed along the same general lines as the Seiko “Tuna,” the H558 is a bit sleeker, adding cool details like a day/date digital window to the timeless appeal of the Seiko diver’s dial.
Rugged, dependable, and ready for action, the H558 on Bond’s wrist was the perfect choice for 007’s daring adventures.
This Seiko in running order starts in the $400s, but mint examples can go for as much as $800 depending on the auction.
Seiko 6923-8080
Any real Bond aficionado knows that 007’s mastery of style comes down to carefully chosen, timeless essentials, and the two-tone Seiko 6923-8080 is a perfect timepiece for everything from business to pleasure, which for the spy could mean pairing this striking watch with a sport coat and khakis (complete with cravat).
The steel case, two-toned president bracelet, and elegant dial ooze class and sophistication, while still signaling excitement. A quartz analogue, the 6923-8080 draws inspiration from the Rolex Datejust, sounding just the right notes of old-moneyed taste.
This is certainly a choice that men can still be proud to wear, and this Seiko hasn’t lost a step in the intervening decades since its release.
Excellent examples command prices in the mid-$300s, making this an affordable option for those looking for a refined look that demands respect.
Rolex Datejust
Roger Moore’s personal Rolex Datejust also appeared in A View to a Kill, making its debut in the scene in which Bond finds a very dead Sir Godfrey Tibbett in Zorin’s Rolls Royce.
Whether this was an intentional choice or not, the return to Rolex in this scene represents a change in direction for 007’s timepieces. Out are the Seikos and quartz movements; back are the automatics from Rolex and other premium European brands.
The two-toned Datejust, featuring Roman numerals, a cyclops-style lens over the date, and an elegantly decorated bezel and crown, matches Bond’s sense of classic fashion perfectly. This Rolex, perhaps more than any other watch to date, typifies the 007 aesthetic.
This model still attracts attention from collectors and wearers alike, and you can find nice examples starting at around $5,000.
TAG Heuer Professional Night-Dive Ref. 980.031
Timothy Dalton took the helm as Bond in 1987’s The Living Daylights, and the opening sequence sees him wearing a black TAG Heuer Professional Night Dive.
This deep black timepiece shows a luminous dial to fantastic effect, and like the other dive watches of the franchise, this one is as lovely as it is capable.
Introduced when physical vapor deposition was still a new tech, these timepieces tend to show their wear, but when pristine, they offer a luxuriant black backdrop for what was and is a real show-stopper.
The Bond-specific model is very hard to find, and despite its use of a quartz movement – the last of this kind of 007 – it still runs roughly $2,000 in good condition.
Rolex Submariner Ref. 16800
Dalton returned in 1989 as 007, with a Rolex Submariner 16800 gracing his wrist. Unfortunately, the model has confused some fans, as his stunt double wore a very similar model, sans the cyclops date window.
But Bond flexed his inimitable style with the last Rolex (so far) of the franchise. And like the dive watches of previous films, “the spy who loved watches” was able to dress up or down this striking timepiece.
A matte dial, an unpolished case, and perfectly applied lume strike just the right balance between elegance and action, connecting Connery’s Submariners to the Omegas to come.
One of the rarer models, given its short production run, the 16800 is very hard to find, and prices can skyrocket for mint examples at auction, with some examples fetching as much as $175,000!
Omega Seamaster Professional Ref. 2541.80
Q-branch may have taken some time off from advanced gadgetry during the late 1980s, but GoldenEye witnessed not only a dramatic shift to Omega from Rolex and Seiko, but also the return of fantastic timepiece features like lasers.
Pierce Brosnan’s Bond marks a new era for 007’s wrist, and the Omega Seamaster Professional gestures to the Submariners and Seikos while charting a course of its own. This quartz-driven diver appears with both a black strap and the standard steel bracelet, allowing its dazzling deep blue dial to do the talking.
A uniquely machined bezel draws the eye, and while taste is largely subjective, I think this Omega is nothing short of beautiful, a memento from an era when quartz tech was reshaping the industry and its brands.
This vintage Seamaster Professional can be had for roughly $2,000 at auction or from reliable resellers.
Omega Seamaster Professional 300M Ref. 2531.80.00
Brosnan would continue to showcase Bond’s new love for Omega, wearing a newer model Seamaster in each of the next three installments: Tomorrow Never Dies (1997),
The World is Not Enough (1999), and Die Another Day (2002).
This Seamaster retained the aesthetic of the earlier watch, but offered rhodium plating and a mechanical movement in place of the stainless steel and quartz. Responding to the trend of luxury watches to embrace high-mech and skip the simple quartz movements, 007’s wrist allows horological history a place on the silver screen.
As attractive a choice now as it was two decades ago, his Omega can be found for fair prices in the mid-$2,000s.
Omega Seamaster 300M Co-Axial 2220.80.00
Omega seems to have captured Bond’s heart for longer than any of his female co-stars, displaying remarkable loyalty to the brand.
That makes a lot of sense when you step back a bit.
Omega knew they were on to something with the styling of the Seamaster, and it comes as little surprise that, at first glance, Daniel Craig’s Bond seems to be wearing the same timepiece as Brosnan.
But a deeper dive into the watch gracing his wrist in much of Casino Royale reveals a new, rhodium-plated co-axial movement under the hood, an upgrade to be sure from quartz as well as the mechanical movement of the 2531.80.
But while the beating heart of this watch may be changed, the panache and presence of the Seamaster carry the Bond mystique perfectly.
Carefully tended examples can fetch prices as high as $4,000 for this model, a fair price for an iconic timepiece.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 232.30.42.21.01.001, 2900.50.91, and 2201.50.00
The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean spends a lot of screen time on Craig’s wrist over the next films, keeping its clean look and the co-axial movement that sets the real players apart from the pretenders, just as Bond does at the poker table.
A black dial, clean, uber-legible markings, and understated straps and bracelets lend these Seamasters a quiet confidence and the good looks to attract the eye of the beautiful Vesper Lynd.
Returning to the elegant simplicity of the early dive watches of Connery’s Bond, the Planet Ocean is simply stunning, working as well with casual clothing as it does with 007’s formal evening attire.
These vintage watches can be found in excellent condition for several thousand dollars.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Ref. 231.10.42.21.03.003
Craig’s Bond is a more stripped-down, hard-edged version of 007 when compared to Moore, Dalton, and Brosnan, and the choice to equip him with the Aqua Terra in Skyfall reflects this.
Perhaps the most attractive of the spy’s sport watches – at least to my eye – the Aqua Terra showcases a beautiful manufactured and finished dial, elegant legibility, and a case and bracelet that are at home whatever Bond is up to: fleeing assassins, car chases, gun fights, or just looking effortlessly cool against exciting backdrops.
It harkens to an error when watches were signature tools, necessary equipment for keeping meetings, promises, and deadlines. Sleek, elegant, sexy, and daring, the Aqua Terra isn’t just for show; its heart is the co-axial calibre 8500, a refined, luxurious movement that keeps impeccable time.
If you need a watch that looks as good on your wrist as it does on screen, your search has ended. The MSRP for this watch from Omega is $6,000.
Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. 233.32.41.21.01.001
Bond’s military experience is essential to believable action sequences, and when pressed to his limits, you’ll find 007 sporting a special Omega Seamaster 300. Omega released this timepiece in a limited series, explaining why they can be hard to find on the used market.
Fitted with a five-stripe black and gray NATO strap, the black face, 12-hour bezel, and vintage Super-Luminova coatings draw a direct line to the spy’s history while staying fresh and new. Powered by the exciting co-axial 8500 movement, long gone are trerh days of quartz movements, digital displays, or fancy gadgets.
More forceful than the Aqua Terra, and clearly more commando-inspired by design, this Seamaster is ready for anything SPECTRA can throw at Craig.
Models in pristine condition can fetch prices in the high-five figures.
Finally, we come to 007’s latest watch, an Omega designed with the help of Daniel Craig. The 007 Edition of the Seamaster Diver wears a brown tropical aluminium bezel ring and dial over a titanium case and mesh bracelet (or a NATO strap).
Powered by the co-axial master chronometer 8806, the subdued tones and feather-weight materials speak to wearability, function, and rugged dependability, without sacrificing the aesthetics that draw the eye to the Seamaster.
No Time to Die is probably not the end of Bond, or his love for Omega watches, and if you can’t live without this 007 memento – or its legendary cool – it’s available from the manufacturer for just $10,600 (with the bracelet).
Conclusion
From Dr. No’s Gruen Precision 510 to Skyfall’s Aqua Terra, Bond captured the essence of manly style with a sophistication that’s never stodgy. Braced for action, but charmingly refined and elegant, 007’s wrist has showcased more than a few horological treasures.
Among these iconic timepieces, you’re sure to find a few that capture your imagination and enhance your sense of style.
Like many watch collectors, I’m a sucker for a beautiful movement, but I find my friends’ patience is tested when we’re having dinner or drinks, and I keep staring through a crystal case back at a ticking movement. Some people are addicted to their screens; me – I’m a watch guy.
A watch with an “open heart” exposes its movement through an aperture, giving you a glimpse of the mechanical complexity and precision normally hidden by the dial. I’m not always a fan of this design, and it’s tough to get it just right. But when it’s done well, I like the sophisticated addition to the dial that an open heart creates, and there are some amazing examples out there that are worthy of closer attention.
Open heart watches have an aperture cut into their dial that reveals the escapement, a small part of the movement that converts rotational energy into lateral movement, or the balance wheel, which acts like a pendulum.
At their best, they combine beautiful dial design with a stunning glimpse of the mechanism behind the time and complications. They differ from skeletonized watches in that the dial exposes only a part of the movement; a skeletonized watch reveals as much of the inner workings of the watch as possible.
For me, the best examples of open heart watches marry an elegant, simply sophisticated dial to a small window into the movement. A busy dial, paired with an open heart, can make the watch hard to read – and it can look really gaudy if it’s overdone.
But when executed properly, using high-end movements that have been polished and decorated, there’s nothing like glancing at the dial and seeing the movement beating away.
History of Open Heart Watches
Open heart watches are a relatively recent development in horology, dating to Revue’s use of the name “Open Heart” in 1979. A his and hers pair, the men’s version was skeletonized; the women’s featured what we now call an open heart.
But it wasn’t until 1994, when Frederique Constant revealed its “Heart Beat” model, that this dial design became truly popular, spreading across the watchmaking world.
Since then, a wide array of brands and models feature an open heart design, made all the more complicated by the need to balance beauty and function.
12 Best Open Heart Watches
The best open heart watches work real magic, like sleight of hand in reverse, revealing exactly what’s in the magician’s hat. Instead of concealing the mechanical wonder that keeps the hands moving in perfect time with the movement of the sun, they give you a glimpse of what’s behind the curtain.
And like the magician’s assistant, the open heart needs to be eye-catching without being too revealing. It should draw your attention but not steal the show from the other elements of the dial and case. Let’s take a closer look at how the open heart design can be executed to perfection.
Chronoswiss is known for its fascination with color, pattern, and aesthetic balance, and nowhere is that more evident than in the Open Gear Flying Tourbillon Paraiba.
Limited to just 15 pieces and priced at $44,400, this exquisite watch features a 44mm stainless steel case with both polished and vertically brushed finishes and an onion crown. Knurled details add to its elegance, but one glance at the dial is all I need to know that this watch is a Chronoswiss.
The multi-level dial’s bold textures and striking colors recall the blues and greens of prized Paraiba tourmalines, and as light plays across your wrist, the dial will change color and hue. The textures themselves are works of art: the Côtes de Genève and hand-guilloche details are breathtaking.
A subdial at the 12 tells the hour, while the minute hand rotates from the center of the dial. And, of course, at the 6, you’ll see the Flying Tourbillon, the heart of the manual-winding Caliber C.303 movement.
In 1994, Frederique Constant’s Heart Beat Automatic brought the open heart concept out into the open, as it were, and there’s little question as to why once you see this watch. Its 41mm stainless steel case is an elegant combination of brushed and polished finishes that remind everyone that sophistication and simplicity go hand in hand.
And it sets off a matte black dial with an embossed globe that adds a touch of texture. Simple sword hands tell the hours, minutes, and seconds, and even the indexes are simple illuminated markings – nothing fancy.
But that’s as it should be because, at the 12, you’ll find the open heart of this watch, visible through a window centered under the double index at the top of the dial. In imitation of anatomy, the central jewel on which the balance wheel turns is just left of the center, right where a heart should be.
Inside, you’ll find the FC-310 movement, based on the Sellita SW300-1. Retailing for $2,295, Frederique Constant’s Heart Beat Automatic demonstrates how the open heart should be designed.
Seiko’s Presage collection constantly threatens my bank account, and Seiko may as well have my credit card info stored for permanent use. Seiko’s Presage Classic Semi-Skeleton Shiroiro is understated, as you’d expect, offering casual luxury and the option for daily wear.
Priced at $1,125, it’s within reach of most enthusiasts, but it looks a lot more expensive than that. Shiroiro is Japanese for the color of unbleached textile, and this watch’s design is centered on the traditional use of that material in Japanese culture.
From the dial’s soft texture and delicate color to the rounded details of the case to the curved and recessed sundial and open heart, this watch is all about elegance and sophisticated design details. Familiarize yourself with the Presage Shiroiro, and you’ll catch the Seiko bug, too.
The second limited-edition Chronoswiss I’d like to discuss today, the Flying Regulator Open Gear Blue Spark, is another masterpiece of design and precision, retailing for just $11,600. The 41mm case is machined from stainless steel and then coated with an electric-blue CVD finish.
The case and crown are identical in every other respect to the Open Gear Flying Tourbillon Paraiba. But the dial – wow! Amazing texture, incredible detail, and stunning design.
As you’d expect from Chronoswiss, it’s a multi-level affair: the bottom layer is hand-guilloched, while the top features screwed-on skeletonized train-wheel bridges for the hours and seconds displays. The seconds display – with an amazing hand design – reveals the open heart of the Flying Regulator. The minute hand rotates from the center, balanced by the seconds and hours displayed above and below.
Seiko’s Presage collection tends to be dressy, but the mid-century looks of the Style ‘60s capture the essence of Sean Connery’s Bond in You Only Live Twice: elegant, refined, and yet incredibly capable.
An undeniably homage to the Seiko Crown Chronograph from 1964, the Style ‘60s has a brushed 40.8mm stainless case on which a black bezel rides. Gold markers on that ebon ring add a sporty flair, transforming what would otherwise be a purely dress watch into something more – something ready for wherever the evening might take you.
The dial design is simple and elegant: black with silver and gold details. The hands are illuminated, and at the 9 and 10:30, slightly overlapping, you’ll find a 24H compilation and the aperture revealing the heart of the mechanical Caliber 4R39 movement. At just $460, this watch is a steal!
You’ll remember that I praised the elegant application of an open heart on a sophisticated dial. Is it any surprise that Frederique Constant gets this just right? Their Heart Beat Moonphase Date model is everything a dress watch should be and then some.
The refined, simple 40mm case stands out behind a detailed dial that gets all the little things right. From the multiple rings delineated by carefully applied textures to the Clous de Paris guilloché center to the Roman numeral hours and outer date complication, this watch is all class.
At the 12, you’ll find the open heart – and yes, the central jewel on which it turns is ever so slightly left of center. Below that, at the 6, Frederique Constant has placed a moonphase window that adds visual interest without subtracting from the elegance of this timepiece. Priced at $1,995, this watch punches well above that price point on the wrist.
Orient Bambino Open Heart (ref. RA-AG0002S10A)
Orient’s Bambino Open Heart demonstrates that luxury needn’t break your budget. With a 40mm stainless case featuring an elegant pairing of brushed and polished finishes and a pure white dial that enhances the beauty of the polished hands, indexes, and yes, even the escapement bridge visible just a touch south of the 9, this watch channels old-money understatement.
Everything about the Bambino Open Heart is dialed-in, polished, and refined, down to the onion crown and brown croc-embossed strap. If you appreciate simple refinement and unadorned luxury – the look that says wealth rather than money – the Orient Bambino Open Heart is perfect for you at an unbelievable $225.
Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart 40mm Black Dial (ref. H32565735)
If you’re the kind of guy who just oozes cool, a modern-day Miles Davis, so to speak, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart can help you chill a room and smooth your vibe like careful aging polishes a good whiskey.
The sophisticated stainless case holds a dial that refuses to be nailed down as either open heart or skeletonized – giving free play to the beating movement it reveals. Against a black-as-night dial adorned with funky Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, 9, and 12, as well as polished hour, minute, and second indexes, the open aperture makes a statement that can’t help but be heard.
The carefully polished and engraved H-10 automatic movement is a show-stopping background to the dial. Effortlessly cool always stylish, the Jazzmaster Open Heart will only set you back $995.
For fans of open heart designs, Tissot offers the Gentleman Powermatic Open Heart, a watch that’s perfect for daily wear, white-collar work, and casual evenings with friends. The key to that versatility is refined simplicity. The 40mm case combines brushed and polished surfaces, harmonizing with a polished bezel that enhances the beauty of the deep blue dial.
Polished silver-tone hands, indexes, and minute and second markers really stand out against this dark color, and the open heart—really two open hearts slightly overlapping—gives you a glimpse of the automatic caliber 80.601 movement. Paired with a brushed and polished bracelet, the Tissot Gentleman Powermatic Open Heart takes work and play seriously and is available for $895.
Bulova Classic Automatic Open Heart (ref. 96A201)
It’s not easy to make a watch that is both elegant and sporty, perfectly wearable when you’re in a suit, and just as fitting when you’re dressed casually and just hanging out with friends. But Bulova gets that balance perfect with its Classic Automatic Open Heart.
A 41mm matte stainless case encloses a soft black dial punctuated by crimson lines that divide the dial into quarters. Simple, polished hands mark the time against elegant indexes, and of course, you’ll see the beating heart of the automatic movement.
That balance of red and silver against a dial as soft and dark as fine velvet allows this watch to move seamlessly with you, wherever you are, however you’re dressed. Available for $499, the Bulova Classic Automatic Open Heart is always whatever your style needs it to be.
Rado’s Centrix Automatic Open Heart is a study in contrasts, pairing a ceramic brown so dark it looks almost black with polished stainless – and a polished and decorated movement. Certainly closer to a skeletonized design than an open heart, the angular dial is barely there, revealing more of the in-house automatic movement than it covers.
Simple lance hands tell the time, matched by simple indexes at the edges of the dial. We don’t need watches to keep track of the time these days, and timepieces are statements more than necessities, jewelry rather than tools.
That’s certainly true of the Rado Centrix Automatic Open Heart, and legibility has been sacrificed for a closer look at the movement. That said, the result is handsome, elegant, and eye-catching. And for the fashion-forward, this $2,495 watch will turn heads, just as it should.
Zenith Chronomaster Open El Primero (ref. 03.3300.3604/69.M3300)
Zenith’s Chronomaster Open El Primero is a greatly improved and updated version of the original Chronomaster Open, down-sizing the case to more manageable proportions and – to me, at least – upgrading the aesthetic appeal of this watch.
This new Open El Primero retails for $10,300, and every penny is well spent if you like open heart watches. The new case measures 39.5mm, and it sports both brushed and polished finishes. The bezel is slim and highly polished, a bit more than some would want on a chronograph that’s designed for a sporty appearance.
The matte silver dial shows off tri-color counters, as well as a transparent counter for the running seconds. And not one, but three, open heart apertures overlap from the 7 to the 10. The Caliber 3600 chronograph rotates its hand around the chronometer ring 10 times a second – an impressive feat of design and engineering – adding to the horological street cred this watch undoubtedly deserves.
Conclusion
Open heart watches may not be for everyone, and there are certainly poorly executed examples aplenty. But when manufactured by a company with the horological chops to design them well, they are a stunning testament to the watchmaker’s art.
And for those who just can’t get enough of the open heart design, the good news is that many excellent brands produce them, offering a wealth of choices for the discerning buyer.
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