Marcus Henry, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 3 of 5

Author: Marcus Henry

rolex cookie monster vs smurf

I grew up on Cookie Monster and the Smurfs, among various other fantastic cartoons. Do either of these watches live up to their legacy?

No. Nothing can ever match the pure joy I experienced as a child watching that blue monster gobble down an entire plate of cookies and then often the plate itself. That said… these are some pretty spectacular Rolexes.

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18K white gold, blue bezels, and Rolex’s finest movements beating away in their chests. The “Cookie Monster” and the “Smurf” are among Rolex’s best-ever offerings, enjoying massive popularity among those who can afford the sticker price. 

They represent refined, subdued luxury, and at first glance, they look like they’re made from humbler steel, thanks to the simple appearance of white gold. But to those in the know, they’re exceptional watches that demand appreciation. 

What sets the two models apart, and how could you pick one over the other? Let’s explore these two cartoon legends in-depth and dissect what factors could crown (wink) one over the other.

The Rolex “Smurf”

Rolex Smurf

The Rolex Submariner “Smurf” was first introduced in 2008. Rolex, being the snobby watchmaking house that they are, merely dubbed it “reference 116619LB,” but the fun-loving collector in all of us was quick to recognize the bright blue palette and identify it as rather Smurf-like in character. 

2008, we should note, was Rolex’s 100th anniversary as well as the 55th anniversary of the Submariner collection, so it was a big year for the Crown.

To celebrate, they released a trio of Submariners: the ref. 116618LB with a yellow gold case and blue dial and bezel, the ref. 116618LN in yellow gold with a black dial and bezel, and, of course, the Smurf.

Take a look at that gorgeous blue lacquer dial and bezel, easily the centerpiece of the watch. I absolutely adore the color combination of that bright blue over the more subdued whitish palette of the case—it’s a combo that features predominantly in the Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary, which is my first love in watchmaking. 

So, I’m certainly a little biased, but it just works so well for me. The blue lacquer is rich and smooth, with depth and shine, and the color-matched bezel is spot-on in matching hue.

Note as well the non-color matched date window, which pops against the monochromatic palette of the dial and is especially visible through Rolex’s cyclops lens. 

For an extra touch of luxury, Rolex added platinum plating to the numerals on the bezel instead of the more standard lume, thereby reducing utility for additional class.

The case is Rolex’s Submariner Super Case, constructed in this case entirely out of 18K white gold and featuring a brushed finish and prominent crown guards.

The Oyster bracelet flows seamlessly out of the lugs and features a finish that is so smurfing good with that contrast between mirrored center lugs and brushed edges. 

The hands, likewise, match perfectly with the case and bracelet in their color. Rolex has been making their own gold alloys since 2000, so their white gold is a little different from the industry standard.

It’s both more yellow and more gray, depending on how the light hits it, which enables it to stand out just a bit more from steel as well as introduce some subtle colors into the overall palette of the watch.

Due to its rather unique color, many have started referring to it as “gray gold” instead of white gold, signifying the originality of Rolex’s alloy.

Inside the Smurf is the caliber 3135, a great movement with automatic winding, 48 hours of power reserve, and hacking seconds. The caliber also enjoys Rolex’s “Superlative Chronometer” distinction, which means it is accurate to within +/- 2 seconds per day, a stunning level of precision.

It’s an incredibly durable and precise movement that, when safely ensconced within the Super Case, can weather any storm.

Additionally, there are also a few examples of the Smurf with factory diamond-set dials, where the lumed shape indices are swapped out for matching diamond cuts.

Naturally, in this case, the utility of the watch goes way down, but you add a significant level of elegance and—shall we say—bling that heightens the refined nature of the watch. These are pretty rare, but you can still find a few floating around the secondary market.

Wait—the secondary market? I hear you ask in despair. Yes, indeed, the Rolex Submariner Smurf was discontinued in 2020, to the eternal sorrow of little blue creatures all over the world.

At this time, Rolex upgraded their Submariner case to be 1 millimeter larger (41mm instead of 40mm, the Smurf size) and phased out the Smurf model to replace it with the Cookie Monster. I’ll give you a moment to weep in silence.

The Rolex “Cookie Monster”

Rolex Cookie Monster

The “Cookie Monster,” Rolex’s reference 126619LB, is in so many ways a carbon copy of the Smurf. You get the same case, just 1mm larger, and the same Oyster bracelet with an extending Glidelock clasp.

It’s still 18K white gold, and has the same lovely blue of the bezel with platinum plating on the bezel markings.

So where do the differences kick in? As I’m sure you can see from the pictures, the Cookie Monster has a rich black lacquer dial, creating a sharp contrast with the bezel and case that heightens legibility and, for some, the visual appeal of the watch.

The indices and dial text are identical to the Smurf, but the color definitely makes a serious difference in the overall presentation of the watch.

Additionally, the Cookie Monster features the new Rolex caliber 3235, an evolution of the 3135 in the Smurf. This new movement is objectively better.

It runs for around 70 hours, compared to the 48 of the Smurf, and also features Paraflex shock absorbers and Rolex’s Chronergy escapement. It’s just a better movement all around, a clear evolution of the 3135, and a factor that definitely sets the Cookie Monster a step above.

The Cookie Monster was introduced in 2020 and, unlike the Smurf, is still available from Rolex—although I’m sure you’ll still be faced with a waiting list time that will try your patience to the extreme unless you’re one of your local AD’s best customers. 

It retails for $46,600, setting it immediately at a much higher starting point than the Smurf (more on that later). Whether this is due to inflation, the price of gold, or just whatever the heck Rolex puts in their black lacquer, it’s hard to say, but the price stands as it is.

Battle of the Blue Monsters: How to Choose

So, which one do you pick? Team Smurf or Team Cookie Monster? The discontinued original blue icon or its modern successor? Let’s break down the many factors that should influence your choice.

The first and probably foremost thing you should consider is, of course, the color palette and design of each. Almost every factor in the construction of each watch’s exterior presentation has the same level of quality, so it comes down to whether the monochromatic blue of the Smurf or the contrast of Cookie Monster speaks to you more. 

Personally, I lean towards the Smurf blue-on-blue, which I think has enough contrast from the white gold case—but that said, the Cookie Monster is extra legible thanks to its improved contrast and plain black dial.

Additionally, you’ll want to think about the movements. As I said, the Cookie Monster has the caliber 3235, which is better than the 3135 in the Smurf in terms of power reserve and energy efficiency. This might not be a huge deal to you—thanks to the automatic winding, your watch will stay pretty wound if you wear it regularly. However, if you hate resetting your watch, and aren’t planning on wearing it every day, the Cookie Monster might be a better choice. 

Alternatively, you could put either one on a watch winder and achieve the same effect. Both have the same level of precision and performance, so the difference here does almost entirely come down to power reserve.

You’ll also want to think about the watch’s value and how you’re buying it. If you’re looking for an absolutely brand-new watch, you’d be better off with the Cookie Monster, which you can get directly from Rolex. There are some new-condition Smurfs still floating around out there, but you can never be totally sure of them unless you buy from a very reputable gray market dealer. 

Let’s also talk value quickly. The Smurf had an original retail price of around $39,650, and it’s currently trading hands at $33,167. Admittedly, this is significantly lower, and the watch has lost a lot of value over time, but I wouldn’t be concerned about that dropping further, as it’s held pretty steady over the past year. 

The Cookie Monster goes for $31,789 on the secondary market, which is significantly lower than its elevated retail and even lower than the Smurf, so if you’re looking for a cheaper used model, the Cookie Monster may be the way to go. Price is definitely a factor to consider, and I’d spend some time looking through available models and comparing them against fair retail and market prices, depending on their condition.

The last factor I want to touch on is the rare diamond dial available with the Rolex Smurf. If you’re really looking for something elegant and shiny, that diamond dial option provides a clear edge over the Cookie Monster and can be the deciding factor for you if you want some shine on your dial beyond what the lacquer provides.

In the end, the choice is up to you. (What, did you think I was going to give you an objective answer?) In my opinion, the clearest distinction that should inform your choice is the color palette and design of the watch. 

That’s the biggest and most visible difference between the two watches, and worth the majority of your thought. Second, consider the movement, and your needs from the watch’s power reserve and performance. Finally, consider the price and whether or not the price difference between the two should change your decision.

Conclusion

It’s not easy, dissecting the differences between two similar watches and trying to pick one over the other. And maybe you’re not here to pick at all but just to dive deeper into the world of watches. 

Whatever the reason, are you Team Smurf or Team Cookie Monster? Both are spectacular watches, and there’s a reason Rolex kept so much similar from the Smurf when they retired it and produced the Cookie Monster. You really can’t go wrong.

hublot replica vs original

Hublot Replica vs Real – How to Tell Them Apart!

Marcus Henry

May 2, 2025

Hublot is one of the best-known watch brands, thanks to their style of always pushing the boundaries of watchmaking and creating deeply polarizing pieces that shock and amaze even those who are well-grounded in the world of watchmaking.

Hublot’s first piece was released in 1980, when they paired—brace yourself, classical watch nerds—a gold watch with a rubber strap. This is barely enough to cause modern watchmaking fans to bat an eye, but at the time, it was revolutionary.

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People either hated it or adored it. Hublot continues to inspire the same reactions today, holding firm to their DNA as a brand.

For such a popular, expensive, and avant-garde brand like Hublot, it’s obvious that there are going to be fakes. And lots of them. You can find them plastered all over eBay, not to mention sites like AliExpress and Etsy.

They hook you in with shockingly low prices and present a watch that, on the surface level, looks just like a Hublot. Woe indeed to any fish who snaps at this bait. So how can you avoid the fakes and find a real Hublot that’s worth your money? Read on, and I’ll help you resolve this conundrum. 

The Telltale Signs of a Hublot Replica

Hublot watches

When you buy a Hublot, you’re spending all that money on quality. You could have gone and bought a cheap quartz watch at Walmart, but you went for a Hublot. The watch incarnates design and technical advancement.

When you splurge on a luxury watch, you’re buying quality, and so that’s exactly what you’ll look for when it comes to determining if a Hublot is real or not.

First of all, take a look at the price. There are very, very few sellers out there who are unaware of the real value of the watch they’re selling.

If you see a Hublot on the market for $200-300, you’ll almost certainly want to pass on it. Price reflects quality, and if a Hublot is selling for that cheap, it’s either a total fake or completely broken. The cheapest Hublot right now has a market value of over $3,000, so that sort of deal is too good to be true.

Of course, that’s for a new model—if it’s used, it can be a little cheaper, but you’ll need to use your judgment on what makes sense for a watch of its type.

A quick eBay search through current listings seems to show the very cheapest Hublots going for around $1,000 for vintage quartz models. Any less than that should be setting alarm bells off in your head. The price reflects the type of watch you’ll be getting.

If the price seems reasonable for the watch you’re getting, you’ll want to examine its quality. The price could of course be a total bluff by the seller, and you’ll want to make sure that your money is well-spent for its cost.

As a luxury brand, Hublot knows how to imbue their products with a pronounced sense of quality and class. One of the first marks of quality you can analyze at a glance are their characteristic H-shaped screws on the bezel. These should be very pronounced with deep cutaways for the parts that aren’t in the H.

They should be clean and perfectly executed, not marred or shallow. For example, both of the recessed areas of the H should be exactly equivalent in length, depth, and width. Furthermore, contrary to what you might expect, the screws should not be all aligned—that is to say, rotated to point the same direction.

Hublot does not ever arrange the screws in this way: they are all random, as an intentional design point to create an industrial appearance for the front of the watch, as if it was just screwed together. If they’re all perfectly aligned, the screws are probably fake and nonfunctional, so you’ll definitely want to keep an eye out for that.

Another key part of the quality of the watch to keep an eye on is text of all shapes and sizes. Brands often have a characteristic font that they use—in Hublot’s case, it’s a sans-serif font very similar to a font called Nexa Bold, if not identical.

Text that’s printed on the dial or elsewhere should be clean and with even spacing between letters (the technical term for this is kerning, for all you future typography nerds out there). Another key detail—Hublot often prints their logo on the inside of the crystal. When they do, there’s always a thin stroke outline around the text—often black for colored or white text, or white for black text.

If it’s missing this and is just straight white text, it’s probably a fake. Do note of course that this only applies to when the text is printed on the crystal rather than the dial, such as is often the case with their Big Bang collection.

Be sure to also look at the Hublot name engraving on the rotor and on the clasp—these engravings should be deep, clean, and pronounced, with the text in a font that very clearly matches the rest of the text on the dial and elsewhere.

Speaking of the clasp and rotor, there are a few more distinguishing features you’ll want to take a look at in these areas. Like I said, the clasp should have the engraved Hublot logo, but you’ll also want to note that this engraving should be framed by two more characteristic H screws on either side.

Swinging back (wink) to the rotor and movement, it’s not just the rotor that should bear the evidence of Hublot’s craftsmanship.

The movement should appear aesthetically pleasing and be engraved with the caliber number. You can easily look up this number to verify that the caliber number you see is actually used in that particular model of the watch.

Let’s touch briefly on the strap and crown, two more elements that are often overlooked for being small and so make for prime targets for identifying fake watches. The crown should be engraved with Hublot’s H logo or with the H shape of the screws.

Both of these should be executed perfectly and evenly. The strap is almost always integrated into the watch by two more H-shaped screws at the joint between it and the case. These should be just as clean and perfect as the others, and should be fully screwed into place to hold the strap.

The strap itself is usually rubber or an integrated bracelet, but Hublot does offer some examples with leather straps.

In these cases, take a look at the inside portion of the strap and where it connects to the clasp. This should actually be rubber, not leather, which is a bit of a calling card for Hublot as they are known for their usage of rubber in straps.

Another thing to take a look at is the watch’s serial number. Hublot watches bear a rather long serial number that should be 4 sequences of letters and numbers. You should be able to find this number on the caseback. If the number isn’t present, it’s probably a fake.

Next, look at the elements of the dial to see if they’re all executed in a pleasing manner. For example, take a look at the indices, which (if there are any) are almost always applied, meaning they’re 3D elements that Hublot machines separately and then sets into place.

Cheaper fakes will often print these on, which creates a flat and uninteresting appearance. The hands should be faceted, not totally flat, and are usually filled with lume, although this isn’t always the case.

If you’re in doubt about how your model “should” look, try looking up its reference number or scrolling through Hublot’s website until you find a similar one—you can easily compare your watch with what Hublot has online, and many of their watches even have a 3D viewer on the website so you can really get into how every detail should be.

For Hublot’s Big Bang pieces and their Classic Fusion Chronographs, there are pretty prominent pushers on the side of the case which play a role both in the aesthetic of the watch as well as a functional role. You can verify both of these things by examining the pushers and testing them out if you have the watch on hand.

Often, Hublot textures and engraves the surface of their pushers, which can create a really pleasing appearance.

If they’re totally flat and unengraved, this doesn’t necessarily mean anything (their Classic Fusion Chronographs, for example, aren’t textured), but it is something to look out for.

If you have the watch on-hand, try the pushers out to see if they actually trigger any functions. If they do nothing or do something other than start the chronograph, the watch is a fake.

Finally, if you have the watch in hand, one of the best tests of quality is the watch’s weight and feel. A well-built mechanical watch has hundreds of metal components that have gone into its construction, and you can feel a lovely sense of heft and wrist presence for most steel or precious metal timepieces.

If the watch feels cheap or light in your hand, it’s probably a fake, although it could be made from a lightweight material like titanium. You can feel the quality of a watch. It’s a product shaped from metal and produced with time and care.

If the light doesn’t glint off its surface just so, if it doesn’t feel smooth and cool in your hand, if the weight is off or it doesn’t make you aware of its presence on your wrist, then it’s probably a fake, or at least certainly not a watch worth buying.

Yes, some watches are lighter, and some more simple in finishing and design. But there is a very real and very tangible difference between a several thousand dollar luxury timepiece and a cheap fake or mass-produced watch. It’s a difference anyone can feel if you take the time to test it.

Are Hublot Replica Watches Worth it?

You should never intentionally buy a Hublot replica watch. Yes, I know—Hublot watches can be staggeringly expensive, and it feels like a good way to get that iconic look and brand name for cheap.

But ultimately, these watches are infringing on copyright and directly ripping off the design work of a large team of watchmakers at Hublot. In most cases, I don’t have too much of a problem with homage watches, which emulate the look of higher-end watches while adding their own brand name, not portraying it as the brand’s work.

A great example of a good homage watch is the Gevril Tribeca, which perfectly executed the look of vintage Rolex “Paul Newman” Daytonas. But replica watches are not just ripping off a design, but also selling it as if it was a real Hublot watch.

Putting the Hublot brand name on there is not only illegal, but morally dubious. If you’re determined to have the Hublot look for cheaper, homage watches can provide a legitimate and legal alternative without pretending to be what they’re not.

Replicas are undermining the quality and development of Hublot’s watches, which took an immense amount of thought and artisanal craftsmanship to produce. You should never knowingly buy a replica watch.

How to Avoid Getting a Hublot Replica Watch

Thankfully, there are many ways to avoid a Hublot replica. If you’re buying the watch new, stick to authorized retailers, such as Hublot itself (whether in-store or online), or other stores like the exquisite shop on whose blog you are now reading this article (we have over 260 Hublots available!).

These stores will guarantee that you receive an authentic timepiece, complete with its box and papers, without any fear or any need to use what we’ve just discussed about authenticating watches.

If, however, you’re looking at buying watches on stores like eBay, you’ll need to proceed with caution. Look for sellers who offer eBay’s Authenticity Guarantee, for example—they’ll send the watch after you order it to a third-party authenticator, who will verify that you’re receiving a real watch.

If this isn’t offered on a watch that’s caught your eye, you’ll need to proceed very cautiously. Use what we discussed above about analyzing the price and quality and, if anything feels suspicious, it’s best to play it safe and back off. 

Conclusion

Looking for your own Hublot watch can feel like a daunting and overwhelming task. Thankfully, there are ways of beating the scammers and staying one step ahead of those who are trying to sell you a fake watch. Whether you choose to order through Exquisite Timepieces or Hublot themselves or decide to brave the rough seas of eBay, I hope these guidelines will steer you a safe course.

tag heuer connected review

TAG Heuer Connected Review (READ Before Buying!)

Marcus Henry

April 4, 2025

Smartwatches are a pretty purpose-built genre. For the most part, they’re designed to exist unobtrusively on your wrist and are shaped entirely around their function. 

Popular companies such as Garmin and G-Shock love to use incredibly light materials, such as resin and titanium and are sure to advertise the utter weightlessness of their product.

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But what if it didn’t have to be that way? What if you could find a smartwatch that didn’t hide its design but embraced it? A watch that wants to be seen and felt in its position on your wrist.

I know that was a bit of a theatrical intro, but the TAG Heuer Connected is really just that. It’s a smartwatch you’ll want to flash around a little. 

Not in a “look at me, I’m wearing a luxury smartwatch” kind of way (looking at you, Hublot Big Bang e Titanium Diamonds), but in a way that whispers, “this is a quality product that is built to last.”

If you’re still reading this, something about that speaks to you that’s worth investigating. So, let’s take a look at TAG Heuer’s Swiss smartwatches: the Connected E4 and the Golf Edition.

History

TAG Heuer Connected history

The TAG Heuer Connected collection turns one decade old this year. At its unveiling in 2015, then-CEO and industry legend Jean-Claude Biver proudly declared that the watch exemplified “Silicon Valley meets Switzerland,” and I think he was certainly right to do so. 

It was originally created through a partnership with Intel and Google since the watch is powered by Google’s Wear OS but features TAG Heuer’s iconic design. 

It was designed from the start to be a luxury Swiss smartwatch alternative, for those looking for just a little extra class on their wrist but with all the functionality of modern smartwatch tech.

The collection has evolved over the years—the current edition is the fourth, the E4—but the basic DNA remains the same. 

TAG Heuer didn’t want to create a distinctive smartwatch, but rather a smartwatch that looks in every way like a normal watch, with all the elegance that they know how to infuse in everything they make. 

This is reflected in the case profile and the ceramic bezel, as well as the display, which throughout the collection’s history has been based on various watch faces offered by TAG Heuer.

Case

At first glance, anyone could be easily fooled into thinking the TAG Heuer Connected is really a mechanical TAG watch, and a large part of creating that elegant appearance is the case structure. 

TAG offers either a 42mm or a 45mm case with two pushers and a crown, much like you might see on a chronograph. Thankfully, TAG Heuer is careful to compensate for the large diameter by adding shorter lugs, making for an overall very wearable smartwatch.

The buttons and crown are specifically designed to be extremely ergonomic, comfortable and easy to use, and they sure look it. Personally, I’m a big fan of the tapered pushers, which have such a sleek shape and really accentuate the structure of the lugs. 

The crown is engraved with TAG Heuer’s logo and looks much like a standard watch crown, really helping to sell its watch identity.

In particular, the PVD ceramic bezel is an exceptional luxury touch that you’d be hard-pressed to find in nearly any other smartwatch on the market today. 

Not only that, but the sapphire crystal actually extends over this bezel, meaning that it won’t impede your usage of the touchscreen—so you get a touch of luxury shine without sacrificing the practical usage of the watch. With this case, TAG Heuer has really pushed the boundaries of what a smartwatch can be.

Display

If the case is the outfit your watch wears, and the movement is the beating heart, the display is the face, perhaps the most important element in creating an overall elegant presentation. TAG Heuer definitely put quite a good deal of attention into creating the different display options for their Connected E4, and all of the dial options are available directly from the company. 

While this means you don’t have the incredibly wide variety that you’d get with a Garmin, where people can design dials and sell them on the Garmin store, this also ensures that each dial will be high-quality and have razor-sharp clarity.

The dial options are simple but very clean. Most come directly from watches that TAG Heuer offers—even some that are directly inspired by their mechanical offerings, such as one face that features a virtual flying tourbillon (which may just be the single most ironic thing I’ve ever seen on a watch, but I digress). Another that replicates a mechanical skeleton dial.

The display itself is a touchscreen covered by a hard sapphire crystal, so you won’t acquire too many scratches on that lovely clear display. The screen is AMOLED, so it’s very bright when it’s active. 

The dial will go into an ambient mode when not directly in use, but the screen merely dims instead of going fully dark, so you don’t have to flick your wrist around and get the watch to turn on fully just to be able to see the time. 

To me, this is yet another proof of TAG Heuer’s intentionality in producing a smartwatch that works just like any other watch they make—easy to use and just as easy to tell the time as a mechanical timepiece.

Depending on which edition of the watch you spring for, you can also get different faces. The Golf Edition, for example, comes with 5 unique golf-inspired faces. 

In the past, TAG has also made Connected collaborations with Porsche and—believe it or not—Super Mario, so if you pick up an older one of these, you can even get custom dials featuring everyone’s favorite cartoon plumber. 

Oh, and there’s a current collaboration with the Oracle Red Bull Racing team with plenty of special dials inspired by the team’s colors. Outside of the special editions, however, you’ll be stuck with the much more restrained standard dial features.

Smartwatch Features and Battery Life

Let me preface this section with a brief disclaimer. You will probably be disappointed by the features the Connected E4 has to offer. I was, anyways. It’s not exactly a winning combo. In TAG’s defense, however—that’s not really the point. 

The watch is elegant, simple, and made to have a luxury feel and design. It’s not about cutting-edge technology. Would that have been nice to see here for a watch of this price? Absolutely. But at its essence, that’s not what it’s all about.

In any case, I’m not here to make an apology for the Connected E4, so it’s up to you whether the overall design and the features that are available are worth it for this watch. Let’s start off with the battery life, which is just one day (or two if you don’t use it late at night). It’s not exactly the 40-some days you can get on a Garmin with solar charging, but it’s also not built for the things the Garmin is, like adventuring off the grid. 

You’re wearing it around your home and around town, not to go explore uncharted waters. But a little bit longer would have been nice. Thankfully, the supplied charger is pretty cool, and I love the little TAG Heuer logo which lights up when it’s charging.

In terms of basic specs, the Connected E4 comes with a heart rate monitor, a GPS, and an accelerometer for swimming, running, and other activities. These all perform relatively well, with the possible exception of the heart rate monitor—I’ve heard a few complaints that it undercounts, which can also impact other calculations like your calories burned. These basic hardware features power each of the applications the watch has to offer.

If you’re a world-class athlete, you’d be much better off training with a Garmin or COROS than this TAG Heuer. TAG’s suite of wellness applications is relatively limited when compared to most others on the market. You do get real-time calories burned and energy management for races and other competitions, along with training sessions. 

In this latter category, you can actually follow programs made by top athletes (presumably TAG Heuer ambassadors), which is relatively compelling, and also follow along with a display of how to do specific exercises on the watch screen. It’s more of an everyday hitting-the-gym companion than an athletic trainer, to say the least.

Outside of the sports and fitness applications, you do get most of the other functions you’d expect from a modern smartwatch, like notifications, weather, calendar, and music syncing with your phone. The baseline is there, and it’s pretty strong, but it’s not exceptional cutting-edge tech.

Lastly, let’s touch on the golf-specific apps, which are, of course, exclusive to the Golf Edition of the Connected E4. These are actually pretty fantastic, and I was pleasantly surprised to see pretty much everything a golfer could ask for here. You’ve got automatic scoring for you and scorecard-keeping for everyone golfing with you. 

2D and 3D maps of 40,000 golf courses around the world, plus 3D mapping of all your shots over the map as you progress. Stats and feedback on how you did after your trip is over. Recommendations on which club to use for each shot. 

I’m not much of a golfer, but I really can’t think of much more you could ask for. If you’re looking for a golf companion, the TAG Heuer Connected really stands out from its competition.

Straps

There’s not too much to say about the different strap options here, as TAG Heuer has kept it pretty simple. Almost every option comes—if you don’t configure it—on a rubber strap, which is perfectly fine, honestly. Not much to comment on, but it gets the job done and is what 99% of people who are wearing a smartwatch will be looking for. 

Can you easily swap it out for leather if you so wish? Absolutely, TAG even gives you that option upfront when buying the watch, and you can just as well swap out for your own leather strap. But it’s a simple, workhorse option that comes right with the watch, and most people won’t have any need to swap anything out. 

If you spring for the Golf Edition, you’ll get a rubber strap with a little extra texture, inspired by golf balls in a way that’s not super obtrusive or gimmicky, but actually works pretty well.

That said… TAG Heuer does also offer the option to pair a steel bracelet with a steel case watch in either size. I can’t help but love it. It feels so ridiculous in so many ways. A luxury steel integrated bracelet on a smartwatch? Where do I sign up? It’s like Hublot putting their dress watches on a rubber strap. 

It just makes no sense, and yet it works perfectly for this watch. The bracelet itself is pretty darn good, too, with very little gap between links and mirrored central links contrasting with the brushed ends. Frankly, it has no right to look this good.

On-Wrist Experience

TAG Heuer Connected On-wrist experience

TAG Heuer manages to nearly perfectly accomplish what they set out to do: create a smartwatch that has an immaculate luxury look and feel. The watch is big, to be sure, and for those with smaller wrists, you’ll definitely want to go for the 42mm size. 

That said, TAG shortened the lugs a little to make for a watch that’s ever so slightly more wearable than how its measurement sounds. This means you get a larger display, which is perfect for its smartwatch nature, with extra wearability.

The look is definitely the biggest draw of the watch because most of the smartwatch features won’t cut it for a lot of people who are looking for a serious tool to wear. The heart rate monitor and pared-back fitness features are perfectly fine for a guy like me who just drops by the gym to stay relatively in shape and spends most of his time safely ensconced within civilization. 

For me, I really appreciate the luxury look and feel of the watch, and I don’t mind as much not having the latest tech and tactical features. It’s a watch I feel comfortable wearing with most outfits and even taking out to more formal events. That’s really the draw of the watch for almost anyone, I’m sure.

A last thing I want to touch on in terms of the watch’s everyday wearability is the way it integrates with your phone. It doesn’t have any sort of built-in cellular, so everything comes directly from Bluetooth with your phone. Since it runs on Google’s Wear OS, this can cause some problems for some (but not all) iPhone users. 

I’ve heard a few reports that the watch often struggles to pair with their phone. To really get it to work well with your iPhone, you end up needing to download the Google Wear OS app, as well as the TAG Heuer Connected app, which can be problematic for both your storage and the space on your home screen. 

You also can’t directly reply to notifications on the watch with an iPhone. It just integrates a lot better with Androids as a consequence of its Google-powered innards and can be a little frustrating at times to use with an iPhone. 

If you’re an Android user, this is all well and good and can be a little extra advantage with having the watch. If you’re an Apple fan, be sure to save a little screen and storage space for the apps you’ll need.

Price & Availability

The TAG Heuer Connected E4 currently goes for around $1,450, or $1,950 for the Golf Edition. This is sort of an average value, since there are different prices for the normal one depending on case material and how you choose to configure it, but it hovers around there.

Interestingly, the retail price of the watch has been steadily going down over time, which I actually really appreciate. TAG Heuer has shown an awareness of the market, and of how competitive their product is with other smartwatches that are available right now, and since the technology of the E4 has been outstripped in several ways recently, the price has gone down accordingly. It’s still not cheap, but it’s significantly lower than it was before (well over $2,000!), and I appreciate the intentionality from TAG here.

It’s certainly an expensive smartwatch option, but it’s also a luxury item that comes with the TAG Heuer brand name and is built to last. Yes, it costs more upfront, but it can also last you longer even while others are upgrading to the latest iterations of whatever smartwatch they’re into and end up spending more money.

Note as well that TAG also offers a trade-in program, where you can sell your E4 to get some money back towards a newer edition of the watch. If they release a new collection in the future, you won’t have to worry about missing out just because you got an older version of the watch.

You can find the TAG Heuer Connected E4 for sale on the company’s website at around $1,450.

Conclusion

It’s not a watch that’s going to stun your friends with its crazy features and long battery life, but it sure is beautiful. And in the end, that’s what TAG wanted. Whether you like it as it is or not, TAG Heuer hit their goal dead-on with this one, and I think there’s something to be respected in that. 

A luxury Swiss watchmaking house stuck to its guns and made something following its own ideals, its own design, and its own character, and this is the product. Love it or hate it, it’s a pretty darn good watch that deserves a round of applause.

rolex explorer review

Rolex Explorer Review (Read BEFORE You Buy!)

Marcus Henry

April 3, 2025

Scrolling through the list of collections on Rolex’s website reveals just one icon after another. Datejust. Submariner. GMT-Master II.

The list reads more like a hall of fame for watches than a company website. You have to scroll past most of these other legends to reach the Explorer collection towards the end, almost as if Rolex is keeping this one hidden away for those with a little extra intentionality.

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That extra searching will meet with a full reward, I assure you, for the Explorer collection is one of Rolex’s very finest. It couples Rolex’s traditional heritage with the tool watch style that they do best. 

It’s simple and understated, which is central to Rolex’s historical identity. It is Rolex distilled to a single drop. No flash. No flair. Just a nearly perfect tool watch that works. And keeps on working.

Whether you’re scaling the highest mountains or clocking a 9 to 5, the Rolex Explorer captures the spirit of adventure in every moment. It can weather any storm, from a blizzard on Mount Everest to a rapidly approaching deadline. If you’re looking for a go-anywhere, do-anything watch by the watchmaking brand, look no further.

History

Rolex Explorer History

The Oyster Perpetual Explorer was first introduced by Rolex to commemorate the first-ever summit of Everest in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary. Contrary to popular belief, Hillary himself was wearing a Smiths watch, but his team was wearing Oyster Perpetuals. 

As such, the Explorer itself wasn’t on the first summit of Everest, but mountaineering is in its DNA. From the inside out, it was designed to provide extreme precision even in extreme conditions.

The Explorer was one of Rolex’s first Professional watches. It’s far from the elegant flair of a Cartier Tank—essentially, it is for professionals, those pushing the limits of what is possible.

In the most extreme conditions, you don’t want a cheap battery-powered watch on your wrist that’s barely waterproof and could die at any moment.

Or at least, so the pros say. I wouldn’t know myself. The current editions of the Explorer were relatively recently updated, with the current 36mm size introduced in 2021 and the 40mm in 2023. 

Thankfully for those of us who have a deep appreciation for vintage watches and heritage releases, not much has changed from the original edition of the Explorer—which actually first came out at the same 36mm size. 

In all, it’s a watch that has remained faithful to its past. No need for vintage reissues here: the Explorer is the real deal and looks pretty much exactly how the original 1953 Explorer would look if it was introduced today.

Case

The Explorer case gets the job done, and it does it in probably the most understated possible way. It’s very simply brushed, creating a utilitarian tool-watch appearance uninterrupted by any polished bevels or flash. 

This case can get beat up by pretty much anything anywhere and, thanks to the brushing, scratches, and divots, won’t be that visible or eye-catching. With brushed satin finishing, I often find that beat-up watches are able to wear their scars as a badge of honor in a way that highly polished watch cases really can’t, as any slight mark on their surface will interrupt their smooth shine.

The case is what Rolex calls their proprietary Oyster case. Originally introduced all the way back in 1926, it enabled Rolex to create the first-ever waterproof wristwatch.

At its core, it involves screwing the bezel and the caseback into place, using the tight seal created by the threads and by rubber gaskets to add water resistance. Today, the Explorer has 100m of water resistance thanks to this, which is more than enough to take it swimming, if not a little diving, without any worries.

As a watch nerd, I love the effect created by contrasting areas of polish on a case or bracelet. I’m a big sucker for that sort of visual contrast, and thankfully, the Explorer provides just that with its mirror-polished bezel atop the brushed case.

It’s a little extra flash and shine that pairs so well with the glossy black dial (more on that later) and really turns this watch into something that you can dress up when you want to.

That spectacular Oyster case construction that I touched on earlier is crafted entirely out of Rolex’s proprietary Oystersteel, a special type of steel in the 904L family.

According to Rolex (personally, I’ve never put one of their watches through its paces, but maybe one day), it’s significantly more corrosion-resistant and has a unique radiance when compared to standard stainless steel

Again, Rolex is all about quality and simplicity. Corrosion resistance and a shinier, more precious-metal-like appearance? I’ll take both, please. The case is simple and fantastic. It gets the job done and protects the watch in a powerful and elegant way.

Dial

With the recent editions of the Explorer, Rolex has slightly altered the dial, with the primary changes being repositioning some text and switching the color from a matte black to a glossy black. 

I’m a huge fan of this change—the text is now in the same configuration as the original Explorer, and the glossy black dial is just so much deeper and more elegant than a matte black could be. It’s the elegant shine of a black silk bow tie—simple and timeless.

Overall, the dial is designed to be as legible as possible. It features numerals at 3, 6, and 9, which are even larger than those in the last edition of the Explorer, as well as square lume plots at the others and a triangle at 12:00.

This layout is so iconic and so legible that it’s been copied on hundreds of watches throughout history. I think I’ll let that speak for itself.

Both the applied indices and the hands are filled with Rolex’s special Chromalight lume, which is a bright white during the day and, when charged by UV light, emits an intensely blue glow at night. 

It’s a relatively recent development, from 2008, and it was updated in 2021 to make it an even more intense and longer-lasting shine.

Essentially, it’s a really high-quality lume that is definitely one of the key factors that will set the Explorer apart from similar but less expensive tool watches which will have vastly inferior lume.

The hands are quintessential Rolex, with the “mercedes” hour hand and simple pointed minute hand. I actually am quite fond of the seconds hand, with its round lume plot and round counterweight.

It’s just so visually and physically balanced and, to me, conveys a lovely sense of precision which is, of course, backed up by the powerful Rolex movement beating away inside.

Along the rehaut, you’ll find the iconic “ROLEX-ROLEX-ROLEX” repeated text engraved into the metal. A bit of a history lesson: all the way back in the 18th century, perhaps starting with Abraham-Louis Breguet, watchmakers were making fine and precision engravings in order to distinguish the quality of their work from that of counterfeiters. 

It’s a lovely way to both add that hefty Rolex branding and, by adding such a delicate and difficult-to-reach engraving, provide a way to authenticate the watch at a glance.

Finally, the printed text is very evenly spaced and balanced, with clean kerning (the space between letters) that shows a lovely attention to detail characteristic of Rolex quality. 

Every element of the whole dial shows a profound perfectionism, which is exactly what you pay for when you buy a Rolex or any other quality luxury watch. It’s legible and sporty but elegant, simple and restrained but refined. I really just can’t find any fault with it.

Movement

For a watch like the Explorer, you desperately need a movement that can take a few knocks in intense environments and keep right on ticking. Rolex has placed their in-house caliber 3230 in this role, which was developed in 2020. 

It’s an automatic movement with a whopping 70-hour power reserve, so if you wear this watch every two days, it’ll always be wound. It’s COSC-certified as a chronometer, and to this, Rolex has added their own certification process, earning it the title of “Superlative Chronometer”, which means it keeps time to within +/- 2 seconds per day.

So how does it stand up to life’s adventures, wherever they may be? The cal. 3230 features all three of Rolex’s recent watchmaking developments: the blued Parachrom hairspring, the Rolex Chronergy escapement, and Paraflex shock absorbers. 

Without getting too into the technical details of each of these, each one definitely brings some major benefits to the power and durability of this watch. The Parachrom hairspring increases the watch’s resistance to magnetic fields and also keeps great time even over a long span of time without regulation. 

It’s also more resistant to breaking than standard hairsprings and silicon hairsprings, which have become the standard for the rest of the industry. The Chronergy escapement is what gives the cal. 3230 such a long power reserve, thanks to a significant increase in efficiency for the movement.

In all, it’s a movement designed to resist whatever life throws at you, especially since it’s safely ensconced within its strong Oyster case. There’s not much else I can say about it—it’s a workhorse time-only beater that will power you through all of life’s explorations.

Straps

The Explorer comes normally on a classic Rolex Oyster bracelet, as if the heritage inspiration couldn’t get any better. Once again, there’s not too much to say here and certainly nothing to nitpick at. The bracelet was first developed in the 1930s, so its design actually precedes the Explorer collection, interestingly enough. 

Rolex has equipped this bracelet with both an Oysterlock folding clasp, which snaps over the buckle to hold it tightly shut and prevent it from coming open, and an Easylink rapid extension system, which can quickly add an extra 5mm to its length via a folding link. 

This latter tool is much more useful than you’d think—your wrist actually fluctuates a little in size throughout the day depending on your level of physical activity and other factors, so the option to quickly pop 5mm onto the length can be actually super convenient.

I would strongly recommend keeping your Explorer permanently on its bracelet. The 36mm version has a 19mm lug width, which is quite difficult to find a good strap for—although the 40mm version is at 20mm, which is much easier. 

That said, both of them are made with slots in the case wall between the lugs to better integrate the end link and make it look like it flows right into the case. This means that without the bracelet, you have those slots revealed, which can be a pretty ugly look from some angles. 

Thankfully, the Oyster bracelet is great, and it’s really not too much of a loss. You can try to put a strap on it if you really want, but like I said, keeping it on the bracelet is probably the best option.

On-Wrist Experience

Rolex Explorer On-Wrist Experience

The Rolex Explorer wears amazingly and has a super unobtrusive presence on the wrist—just like you would expect, considering all the rest of the under-the-radar details we’ve discussed so far.

The 36mm version, in particular, is quite small by modern standards, and its 19mm lug width keeps its wrist presence rigidly restrained. It can definitely take some getting used to its small size, so you might need to give it a little more wrist time to adjust to it. 

Once you do, however, I’ve found that it becomes natural and easy to wear, especially for those of us with smaller wrists. Honestly, 38mm is right around the sweet spot for me, so I don’t mind a 36mm version in the least, especially when it’s the vintage size.

The 40mm option is much larger and feels more modern in its sizing. It definitely doesn’t take over too much, but it’s enough to give it much more of a modern sports watch feel and look, sprawling over the wrist with its larger case size and lug width. 

I’m really fascinated by just how much of a difference the case size can make in the overall appearance of the watch. The 36mm is quiet, elegant, and simple, with a pronounced vintage feel. The 40mm is bold but not over-the-top, sporty, and fresh.

Both are great watches in their own right and completely identical on every other level. But the difference in size is definitely something important to consider when purchasing your Explorer.

It’s a watch that, as I’ve mentioned before, can take anything you throw at it. I’m not exactly the type of guy who wanders around climbing mountains, but you can really just feel a sense of bravery and confidence when you wear the watch. Maybe it’s the Rolex name, maybe it’s the solid build and structure of the case, but it just feels strong. 

In a way, it’s inspirational too. If I ever was going to climb a mountain, I’d wear an Explorer to do it. Maybe Rolex should test to see if some of the cal. 3230’s crazy high power reserve actually runs me, too, along with the hands when I’m wearing it…

Price & Availability

Currently, there are three different Explorer models available on Rolex’s website. There are two editions, all in Oystersteel, the 36mm and the 40mm versions. The 36mm goes for $7,350, and the 40mm is just slightly higher at $7,800. Finally, if you’re looking to really accentuate that elegant glossy black dial, you can spring for a two-tone yellow gold Rolesor model (only at 36mm) for $12,700.

I also want to touch quickly on the current market value of these watches since the gray market may be a better move if you don’t necessarily need it directly from Rolex, and they are, of course, expensive investments. 

The 36mm and the 40mm Oystersteel versions are currently reselling for around their market value, with the 36mm slightly lower and the 40mm slightly higher. The big difference is in the Rolesor model, which has a lower market price of around $9,169. 

Definitely not the watch to pick if you’re planning on reselling it, but that really shouldn’t matter. Pick the watch that you love, and that speaks to you!

Conclusion

Every time I take one of these deep dives into a Rolex collection, I walk away with a newfound appreciation for the simplicity and charm of Rolex’s work, and I hope I’ve conveyed that to you as well here. 

The Explorer marries simplicity, refined elegance, and utilitarian strength in a way that many others have striven to emulate since its inception in 1953. It is, in many ways and for many people, the tool watch. Will it be yours?

rolex gmt master ii vs submariner

Rolex. The name alone is dripping with class and opulence. Their watches have adorned the wrists of hip-hop stars, presidents, prime ministers, and princes. Everyone knows the names of their icons: the Submariner, the Day-date, the GMT-Master, or at least their classic look. The brand’s logo is a crown for a reason.

Rolex had humble beginnings all the way back in 1905, founded in London by a young man named Hans Wilsdorf. Wristwatches at the time were barely starting to take off, and he sought to create small wearable timepieces that were both precise and durable. Precision, wearability, and functionality have always been at the heart of what Rolex does. 

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Their Oyster case, introduced in 1926, allowed Wilsdorf to create the first-ever waterproof wristwatch. Rolex didn’t stop there. Inventions came thick and fast through the decades: one of the first automatic movements; a date function displayed through a small window in the dial; the development of special 904L steel; a new hairspring, escapement, and balance wheel design; and so much more. 

Comparing two icons from Rolex is a lot like trying to debate the superiority of Michelangelo’s sculpture of David or his work on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Each is distinct and yet masterfully crafted.

Such is the case with the Submariner and the GMT-Master II, each of which has carved out a prominent niche in history and in the watch market today. Their functionality is distinct, but their appearance is strikingly similar. 

So which one should you pick, between the two? Whether you’re here for a thought experiment or some practical buying advice, follow along as I break down these two giants of watchmaking and get to the heart of what makes these pieces unique.

The Rolex GMT-Master II Collection

The Rolex GMT-Master II Collection

The Rolex GMT-Master collection was introduced in 1955, so it’ll be celebrating its 70th anniversary this year—making it much older than me and probably most of you reading this. This means it has an extremely long and storied history. It’s been worn by icons like Daniel Craig and Marlon Brando. 

It was originally developed to help Pan-Am pilots as they crossed time zones. That’s an airline that doesn’t even exist anymore, but the watch has lost none of its appeal as it steps effortlessly from the vintage era to the modern. It’s served wearers faithfully for generations and stood the test of time to continue as an icon of the modern era.

Its popularity has led to the creation of several affectionate nicknames for the differently-colored models of the past, such as the immensely popular GMT-Master II “Pepsi” with a bi-colored red and blue bezel which I find really charming. Anyone else suddenly craving a cold soda?

Although the essentials remain the same, the collection spans a wide range of case materials and colors, with some even adorned with copious amounts of diamonds for the blinged-out rappers among Rolex’s clientele (or the inner magpie in each of us…). 

Each one features the Rolex Super case, which has prominent crown guards and thick lugs to create a durable watch with a clean, utilitarian air to it. The case is constructed from Rolex’s “Oystersteel,” which is the 901L steel I mentioned above.

It’s less corrosive and holds a better finish than normal high-grade 316L steel, giving the GMT-Master an extremely elegant appearance that will last for a long time. 

In my opinion, the most attractive part of every GMT-Master II is the accent color that it features, both on the bezel and on the dial, which usually has a pop of color for its GMT hand and for one matching line of text on it.

All these features, the colorful elements as well as the restrained utilitarian case, combine to create a product that’s enjoyed extreme popularity for decades.

Currently, Rolex only offers 9 models in production, and several others have been phased out. Among these are the popular “Sprite” (green and black bezel), “Root Beer” (black and brown), “Batman” (blue and black), “Bruce Wayne” (all black), and an as-yet unnicknamed model with a Pepsi bezel and meteorite dial, among others.

It’s a powerful lineup, with a variety of case materials. All are 40mm in diameter, which is a solid wearable size for most wrists, and at 12.0mm thick, it’s not going to wear like an ungainly block of steel.

Before we leave our analysis of the GMT-Master II, you’re probably wondering where the “II” came from. Of course, it was first released under simply the name “GMT-Master.”

The collection experienced an important evolution in 1985, which led Rolex to introduce the number after its name. (I wonder if their other collections will ever have a change like this… a “Submariner II,” anyone?) 

The key difference here was to make the GMT hand completely independent of the hour hand. Previously, you had to use the GMT hand alongside the rotating 24-hour bezel to track a second timezone. 

Now that the GMT hand is independent, you can track a second time zone with the hand and now use the bezel to track a third at the same time. Otherwise, the watch is the same heritage-inspired beauty, just with an extra boost of functionality that is an objective change for the better.

The Rolex Submariner Collection

Rolex Submariner

If any watch can go toe-to-toe with the GMT-Master II in the heritage battle, it’s the Submariner, which was introduced just one year earlier in 1953. At its release, it was the first-ever watch with 100m of water resistance, and it now can go much further underwater with 300m of water resistance. 

Unlike the GMT-Master II, the Submariner is much more subdued, with a typically black dial and its monochromatic bezel being limited to black, blue, and green. Without a doubt, the most iconic Submariner is the simple black-on-black ref. 124060 or the ref. 126610 with date. 

It’s interesting to see how the basic design of the Submariner is what makes it iconic, rather than the colors of the GMT-Master II, where the “Pepsi” is the best-known model. Overall, it’s clear that the appeal of the series is for its strong utilitarian design and tool-watch focus rather than the slightly elevated flair of the GMT-Master. 

The dive bezel of the Submariner is made of Cerachrom scratch-resistant ceramic, just like the GMT-Master, and instead of the 24-hour scale, it has a graduated timing scale for tracking the length of your dives. 

If you’re like me and you prefer to stay on dry land, its simple design means that you can easily track anything in your day-to-day life. I find it’s a nice way to get the functionality of a chronograph with a much simpler design that doesn’t have to sacrifice water resistance to add pushers.

Like the GMT-Master II, it’s also built around the Rolex Super case, with the same strong crown guards and lugs, but it’s just a hair larger at 41mm and a bit thicker at 12.5mm. All models are the same size, but they do vary in the material used and, as I mentioned before, the color of the bezel. 

Rolex GMT-Master II vs Submariner: How to Choose

Now that we’ve had a formal introduction to each of tonight’s contenders let’s get right into the matchup. Each watch is strikingly similar in a lot of ways. Both feature a rotating bezel and the Rolex Super case. Both are distinctly tool watches and are purpose-built, each for different purposes. 

Both have a long and pronounced heritage and have greatly influenced watch design since their introduction. To be frank, you’d be hard-pressed to find a standard GMT or dive watch that looks very different from these two models, with the exception of a few icons like the Omega Seamaster or the DOXA Sub. Some are even just blatant ripoffs (*cough* Invicta Pro Diver *cough*) 

Both also feature COSC-certified movements with Rolex’s classification of “Superlative Chronometer,” which means they’re actually twice as accurate as standard COSC certification, which is +/- 2 seconds per day.

Each one also has 70 hours of power reserve and an automatic winding movement, so the beating hearts of each of these watches are almost identical, even though they feature different functions and are given different numerical designations.

Okay, so both are very close and very exceptional pieces. Where do we start to separate them? One of the first things that catches my eye between the two is the overall presentation of the watch. While both feature nearly the same case, there are a few clear differences in their appearance. The Submariner has monochromatic bezels in muted colors. Many of the GMT-Master models are flashy, and almost all are bicolored. 

Furthermore, while both feature a flat-link Oyster bracelet, the Submariner has an entirely brushed bracelet, while the GMT-Master has brushed outer links and polished center links. Overall, this combines to set the GMT-Master II apart as a slightly flashier and more elegant watch, while the Submariner is very starkly utilitarian in most of these factors.

Another clear aspect to consider is the difference in intention behind each of these watches. The Submariner was built with a whopping 300m of water resistance and a dive bezel to measure your time underwater. Its bracelet also comes with a sliding Glidelock extension system which makes it easy to slip it over a wetsuit. 

The GMT-Master II, of course, has an independent GMT hand and bidirectional rotating GMT bezel for tracking three time zones. This makes it the perfect companion both for travelers and those who frequently work with others in other time zones. 

Both do have particular applicability to everyday life: the Submariner’s dive bezel can time almost anything under 60 minutes and the GMT-Master II can keep you temporally connected to people far away. It’s just a distinction of which you’d rather have functionally, at this level.

Another key distinction to think about is the investment value of each of these watches. While I personally am not a fan of the idea of buying watches expressly as investments (they were made to be worn and enjoyed, not stuck in a safe!), it is also important to consider whether your watch will increase in value in the event that you need to resell it. 

For this comparison, let’s take a look at the “standard” Submariner (all black, no date) ref. 124060 versus the “standard” GMT-Master II “Bruce Wayne” ref. 126710GRNR.

Both are in steel and have an all-black colorway, so there’s not any distinction except the basic differences for the watches. The retail price of the Submariner is $9,200, while it currently goes for $11,079 on the market right now. 

On the other hand, the GMT-Master II has a slightly higher retail price of $10,800 (no doubt due to its increased functionality and complexity) and a market value of $18,069. Most of the other references that are like these two on either side are relatively close to the same market value, although there is naturally some fluctuation based on the desirability of each color. 

It’s clear that the GMT-Master II is a watch that—at least for the moment—enjoys a lot more popularity on the market, and it currently changes hands for a lot more than its retail. 

While this isn’t in any way a suggestion to buy and immediately resell your Rolex just to make a quick buck (please don’t…), any luxury watch is a big investment, and you should definitely think about its value over time when you go to buy it. In this case, the GMT-Master II has the edge over the Submariner, assuming you can get both at retail. 

So which one should you choose? There’s no clear option that’s categorically correct. Each one serves a different purpose, and offers a different style.

Yes, they’re very similar in a lot of ways. But each one is very distinct when it comes down to the fine details that really come together to make the watch unique. The GMT-Master II offers elevated elegance, with the extra finishing on its bracelet and its flashy colored bezel. 

The Submariner offers a refined, under-the-radar tool watch look that can provide extremely useful everyday functionality thanks to its dive bezel.

The GMT-Master II is, at the moment, more of a value piece thanks to its high market value, but it’s also clear that the Submariner is a steady rock in the market and won’t experience the fluctuation that the GMT-Master could if its popularity wanes. The Submariner has water resistance for swimmers or just bad weather, but the GMT-Master has additional timezones.

In the end, both are spectacular watches. They serve different purposes, and they each contribute to the wonderful world of horology in unique ways. Let’s boil it down to this for those of you who are only satisfied with a straightforward answer. 

If you’re looking for an everyday beater watch that can follow you underwater or take some serious knocks without losing any polish or shine, or for something that will fly under the radar while also giving you strong functionality, the Submariner is the pick for you. 

If you travel frequently, work in other timezones regularly, or are looking for a little extra polish and shine, go with the GMT-Master II.

Conclusion

It’s been a close fight between these two Rolex heavyweights, and in the end, I’m forced to call it a draw. Each is spectacular (“superlative,” to use Rolex’s favorite adjective) in its own way and will be a great pick for whatever your situation might be. 

There’s no clear-cut right or wrong in the world of watches. Wear what you love and what speaks to you. In the end, all I’m here for is recommendations. Your watch is, above all, yours, and only you can make the right choice in the end.

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