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Omega vs Tissot – Who Wins the Battle?

Nina S

May 12, 2025

Omega and Tissot are heavyweight champions in the kingdom of timekeeping. Both originate from the world’s horological epicenter – Switzerland – representing the pinnacle of precision and authentic craftsmanship.

Although they promote themselves as independent brands to the everyday novice, both belong to Swatch Group and cater to legions of Swiss watch purists in very different ways. So, which brand is best? Tissot or Omega?

One misconception is that because Omega watches are the more expensive brand of the two, Tissot must be the one that lacks innovation and expertise.

Not true. Perhaps, if anything, this article may serve to educate those still unsure how these two brands can contend on similar parallels with one another, if at all.

A Brief Introduction to Tissot and Omega

Whether you know much about watches or not, chances are you’ve heard of Tissot. It’s one of the largest Swiss watchmakers in the world and a true leader in the realm of affordable luxury.

Even those who wear Tissot watches may not realize just how much the brand has contributed to the history of watchmaking. Allow me to explain in a little more detail…

Tissot traces its roots back to 1853 as a pocket watch manufacturer. This father-and-son watchmaking team built the company’s foundations from the ground up, growing from a small Le Locle-based company to a serious horological contender.

One early historical icon to emerge from the brand’s portfolio was the Banana watch, which was returned to Switzerland for repair but was never able to reunite with its Russian owner, following the laws put in place by the Bolshevik revolution, restricting the distribution of luxury goods. Indeed, this is just one of many short but fascinating stories from this brand’s archives.

Without going into all the milestones of Tissot’s history in date order (since there are so many), we can look at Tissot’s historical contribution to wristwear for ladies.

From an early age, the brand embraced the female market for luxury timepieces and began shifting its focus towards wristwatches for ladies in the early 20th century.

Before comparing Tissot’s heritage with that of Omega’s, it’s worth noting one particularly important milestone in the brand’s history – the release of the world’s first anti-magnetic wristwatch, following Vacheron Constantin’s release of the first magnetic-resistant movement in its 1915 pocket watch.

The release of Tissot’s innovation came at just the right time, during an era (the late 1920s and early 1930s) when the need for this technology became even more paramount.

The release of the revolutionary Tissot Antimagnetique watch was groundbreaking. As the collection grew to accommodate gold and chrome versions and several different sizes, so did its popularity. So much so, Tissot paid homage to the watch in 2018 with a modern version in a 42mm steel case.

Omega has a fascinating history, too. Founded in La Chaux-de-Fonds in the canton of Neuchatel, the brand’s story emerges from an assembly workshop.

The sons of founder Louis Brandt succeeded him, eventually moving the business to Biel and enlarging its manufacturing capacity. In 1894, the brand produced its first movement, the Omega Calibre, earning the company much respect.

Similar to Tissot, Omega has enjoyed a rich and long-lasting partnership with the world of sport (a little more on that shortly), which stemmed back to 1909 when it was tasked with timing its very first sporting event – the Gordon Bennet Cup in Zurich.

Following that, the watchmaker became a long-term supporter of the Olympics, starting in 1932. By then, Omega had merged with the SSIH (Sociéte Suisse pour l’Industrie Horlogère), which later became Swatch Group.

1957 proved to be one of the most important for Omega, indirectly connecting it to the aeronautics industry. The brand released three stylistic but functional tools: the Railmaster, the Speedmaster (initially designed for timing motorsports), and the Seamaster 300.

The Seamaster eventually found its way onto the wrist of Jacques Cousteau, who catapulted the popularity of diving as a leisure pursuit, while the Speedmaster would later become the first watch on the moon.

Model Variety

I mentioned earlier that Tissot has contributed significantly towards female watches, and to this day, the company continues to create elegant designs, including some female iterations of its most popular men’s watches, including the sporty PRX, the Everytime, and the dive-ready Seastar.

In addition to these female-flavored takes on the brand’s mainstays, there are dedicated lady’s collections too, like the Flamingo series, the timeless Bellissima, and the Lovely collection.

I mentioned Omega’s relationship with sport earlier, and here is one level on which Tissot can compete in more ways than one. Tissot maintains a long and continuing tradition with sport. This relationship began in 1938 with a chronograph used to time a series of Alpine ski races.

This chronograph inspired the famous Telemeter, marking the brand’s role as the official timekeeper for several sporting events like the 1957 Davis Cup, BMX Cycling, and the Tour de France.

Tissot has also been the official timekeeper of MotoGP since 2001 and has enjoyed partnerships with European Rugby, the Swiss Ice Hockey Federation, and the National Basketball Association.

In fact, it was the first official timekeeper of the NBA and even worked on producing a state-of-the-art timing system for the game. All this has led to many special edition watches that continue to demand collectability status on the market today.

In addition to its role as an official timekeeper to several sports, Tissot is also a pioneer in auto racing watches. Poised for a complete explosion in popularity upon its release, the PR 516 debuted in the 1960s, competing with the likes of the Rolex Daytona and the TAG Heuer Carrera.

Its bracelet was the first of its kind to feature perforated holes reminiscent of a racing car’s steering wheel. Cementing its relationship with MotoGP and the popularity of the PRS 516 (“S” representing “Sport”), Tissot still maintains a strong presence in the racing industry, having partnered with Renault Alpine in F1 and Porsche for the 24 Hours of Le Mans event.

We can’t discuss popular Tissot models and designs without mentioning its highly collectible PRX range, which remained mothballed until 2020. The brand revived it as a modern-day alternative to iconic watches like the Royal Oak and Nautilus during the height of the post-pandemic phenomenon.

Infeed, premium integrated sports watches were selling like there was no tomorrow during this time. The Tissot PRX was the affordable alternative during this resurgence, distinguished by its barrel-shaped case, integrated bracelet, and waffle-style dial reminiscent of those from the 1970s.

Onto Omega and this brand’s commitment to design is equally, if not more, impressive. Aside from the iconic Speedmaster, the Seamaster was always destined to be an Omega mainstay.

The original of 1948, however, looked nothing like the one we associate with James Bond’s wrist. Its water-ready features were groundbreaking for its time, though, featuring an O-ring gasket to uphold water resistance.

As watchmakers continued pushing the limits in dive watch technology, so did Omega, and in the 1970s, it produced the Ploprof, doubling the Seamaster’s water resistance with a 600M rating. Within a few years, that watch was followed up by a 1000-meter water-resistant reference.

The Seamaster is the brand’s largest offering today, with several sub-categories, including the equally popular Aqua Terra.

Of course, it’s the Seamaster Diver 300M that we really associate with Bond. Originals from the 1960s are still collectibles now. Seamasters have featured in several Bond films, debuting in “Golden Eye” in 1995, followed by “Die Another Day,” “Skyfall,” “Spectre,” and “No Time to Die.”

However, The Speedmaster watch has to be Omega’s most iconic watch. It was the watch that Omega designed for NASA in 1964 following a request made by the Apollo Flight Crew Operations director for a reliable, legible, and accurate wristwatch to assist with training exercises and missions.

The Speedmaster ref 105.003, with its distinctive black chronograph dial, tachymeter bezel, and steel bracelet, passed all the exhaustive tests that NASA subjected it to, assisting the wrist of Ed White in 1965 during his spacewalk as the first American man to do so.

That watch was superseded by the reference ST105.012, which accompanied Neil Armstrong on his visit to the moon, cementing its place in the annals of watchmaking history. However, the Speedmaster range has grown considerably since then, honoring the fundamental characteristics of those first iconic models.

Of course, Omega’s catalog is not limited to Speedmaster and Seamaster watches alone, although these are two of the largest collections. The Constellation is another iconic series that has garnered a reputation as one of the most elegant and timeless watch designs of all.

It’s a symbol of classic sophistication, encompassing a wide variety of designs, including “Pie Pan” dials and bezels adorned with the four claws or “griffes”. Additionally, the De Ville collection is ideally suited to small female wrists, with sub-collections like the Tresor, Prestige, and Ladymatic, making for a nice higher-end alternative to Tissot’s Ballade collection.

In comparison, Tissot’s catalog has lots of designs to choose from, mainly comprising racing-inspired chronographs and classic three-handers. Omega specializes primarily in dive watches, while its Constellation and De Ville collections are perfect for sophisticated, dressier attire.

Design and Materials

When the era of quartz took over the world, Tissot made some moves that, in retrospect, looked like desperate attempts to survive the crisis. Luckily, it made it to the other side but, like many Swiss watchmakers, endured a struggle. In 1971, the brand launched the first plastic watch, the Astrolon, followed by the “Rockwatch” a decade later, crafted by graphite mined from the Alps.

Tissot even experimented with dials (and sometimes cases) made from other natural materials like basalt, jade, and jasper.

The Pearl Watch, arriving in 1988, was one of the last experimental designs and was rather short-lived, but it arguably paved the way for the modern wristwatches we see today made with stone dials.

When Tissot launched the T-Touch watch in 1999, touchscreen functionality elsewhere was still several years away. This quartz-powered ana-digi watch offered chronograph functions, dual time zones, a barometer, an altimeter, and a compass.

It was the beginnings of the Smartwatch as we know it today. The brand evolved the design with a titanium case in 2014 and later implemented it with solar-powered sophistication. That said, unlike Omega, Tissot is not considered a pioneer in material manufacture.

Omega is a master in crafting proprietary materials and has dedicated years to research and development. To Omega, materials are of utmost importance. Its cases range from robust Omegasteel to luxurious Moonshine Gold, Canopus Gold, and even LiquidMetal – an alloy bonded with ceramic for superior scratch resistance. While these materials play a pivotal role in the durability and longevity of every Omega watch, the brand’s materials extend far into the watch itself.

Similar to the silicon components found in a Tissot Powermatic watch, Omega movements are equipped with silicone balance springs to resist the damage caused by magnetic fields, while the attention to detail found in the movement decoration is leaps and bounds ahead of Tissot’s basic ETA movements, adding to the allure of these fine mechanical wristwatches.

Movements

Omega has weathered the sands of time for over a century and, in that space of time, has created some truly innovative movements, many of which are the unsung heroes of its most iconic designs. First, let me iterate that Omega makes watches crafted from quartz and mechanical movements.

Some of Omega’s finest movements shed light on the intricate craftsmanship behind the brand’s excellence.

Suffice to say, if it’s a commitment to horological mastery you’re looking for in a watch, Omega trumps Tissot by a country mile, crafting these engines in-house and setting standards in Master Chronometer certification.

One standout Omega movement series is the Calibre 8500. These engines all feature the revolutionary co-axial escapement system after the brand acquired the proprietary rights to it back in 1999.

The mechanism was a breakthrough in horology, reducing friction and improving precision long-term. The company’s Master Chronometer certification also ensures each movement withstands the rigors of daily life and beyond, with magnetic resistance up to 15,000 gauss.

Other important Omega movements include the Calibre 30T2, which evolved from the 30 series that powered the Dirty Dozen watches, and the Calibre 321, which featured in the Speedmaster Moonwatch series.

On the other hand, Tissot uses a mix of ETA movements and offers both mechanical and quartz-powered movements that reflect higher and lower price points, respectively.

In 1983, the brand became part of the watch conglomerate Swatch Group, which also owns ETA. If you didn’t already know, ETA is one of the industry’s largest suppliers of mechanical movements.

In 2011, Swatch Group embarked on a project to develop a sophisticated movement to pep up mid-tier watch brands. The elite calibre was named the Powermatic 80. Today, you’ll see versions of this in Hamilton, Longines, and Rado catalogs, to name just a few.

The movement is far from pedestrian, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve, classifying those Tissot watches powered by it as weekend-proof.

Its synthetic escapement with friction-reducing qualities and a Nivachron hairspring promise improved mechanical performance, too. The Powermatic 80 is featured in several crowd-pleasing models like the Seastar, the Visodate, and the Gentleman.

Pricing

The price of an Omega watch versus a Tissot watch is where the main difference between both brands lies. One is an entry-level brand that excels in practical sports watches, and the other is associated with more refined craftsmanship and movement components.

Tissot’s prices are much gentler on the wallet than Omega’s. However, the question remains as to whether you want a brand on your wrist that is synonymous with prestige and (in some ways) exclusivity or whether you want more bang for your buck.

The average price of a Tissot watch is around $400, though the very cheapest sits at around the $60 mark. The Heritage and Seastar collections, offering superior water resistance and a higher level of craftsmanship, can cost around $2500.

Omega watches are more collectible and retain their value better than Tissot watches, especially in the case of a Speedmaster or Seamaster. The brand’s starting price is much higher than Tissot’s, with an average of around $3,000 for lower-end models.

Higher-end pieces can cost around $50,000. The most collectible of the brand’s catalog are those from the Speedmaster series, some of the most in-demand references selling for around $30,000.

In Summary

The deliberation between whether Omega is better than Tissot and vice versa will always spark a lively debate among enthusiasts. The truth is that both are synonymous with quality craftsmanship, but they cater to very different audiences.

Omega is the older of the two, but only by a few years, and despite being slightly longer in the tooth, Tissot has an equally impressive heritage, from its mass production of pocket watches in the early days to its contribution to the sporting world and its commitment to crafting a variety of elegant ladies timepieces.

Popular modules like the PRX, Le Locle, and T-Touch series are a gateway into affordably luxury, and they are popular with those who want to experience Swiss precision without breaking the bank.

On the other hand, Omega is known for its contribution to timekeeping in space, with its iconic Speedmaster being chosen by NASA as its official watch for manned space missions in the 1960s.

Its Seamaster model is also recognized as the watch of choice for 007 agent James Bond, becoming a pop culture watch. Omega is also the innovator of the Co-Axial escapement, guaranteeing improved accuracy and reliability.

Aside from the similarities between these two brand’s revered stories, both are priced very differently. You shouldn’t expect to pay more than $2-3k for a good Tissot watch, while high-end Omega watches can run into the tens of thousands. Even so, more affordable Omega watches can be picked up for a couple thousand dollars.

Although the mechanical watches in both Omega and Tissot’s catalog are synonymous with accuracy and precision, Omega is the brand experienced in creating its own METAS-approved movements, while Tissot uses Swiss-made ETA movements – the standout caliber being its Powermatic movement.

In addition to price and reputation, design and aesthetics will determine your final decision. For a versatile sports watch that won’t burn a hole in your wallet, I’d have to recommend you opt for Tissot. For a timepiece that exudes luxury, sophistication, premium materials, and finer details – it’s Omega all day.

Movado vs Citizen: Clean and Simple or Eco Precision. Which Is Right for You?

Nina S

May 11, 2025

When it comes to brand comparison guides, we’ve covered a lot here at Exquisite Timepieces. We’ve given you run-downs on Japanese brands versus Swiss ones and compared hard hitters like Rolex with more affordable brands like Timex to see where the competition really lies in terms of value and quality.

But comparing like-for-like brands makes the most sense of all since it allows you to dig deep into where the differences lie between pricing, quality, and design.

Two brands that we are yet to do this with are Movado and Citizen. Both brands have carved out a distinct reputation for themselves and are each celebrated for their own horological innovations, albeit for very different reasons. If you’re in the throes of deciding between these two brands, read this Movado vs Citizen guide first.

Is Citizen Better Than Movado?

Is Citizen better than Movado, or is it the other way around? The discussion has become one of the most compelling topics amongst watch enthusiasts over recent years, mainly due to Movado’s gradual evolution into somewhat of a fashion-type watchmaker (but more on that later).

Despite both brands manufacturing similarly priced watches, they each bring something different to the table.

Citizen is a brand that has focussed predominantly on sustainability, accuracy, and innovation with the launch of the world-respected Eco-Drive watch and has advanced in terms of material development, too, producing Super Titanium watches that promise a 40% lighter composition than traditional steel and five times better scratch resistance.

However, Movado’s most recognizable watch is the Museum Watch, which eventually went on to represent a core component of the brand’s design language.

The design captured the essence of modernism and became a beacon of Movado’s contemporary spirit, garnering acclaim for its sophisticated simplicity.

Straight off the bat, we can see that these two brands, one Japanese and one Swiss, are recognized for very different reasons. One is revered for its innovative solar-powered technology, and the other for its minimalist approach to aesthetical timekeeping.

Still, as is always the case when looking at any watch brand, there is much more to Movado and Citizen’s story. Join us as we grapple with the nuanced dimensions of the world of Japanese affordability and Swiss innovation to see where (if anywhere) these two brands meet and where they both stand in the illustrious landscape of horology.

A Brief History of Citizen

Citizen can lay claim to a series of watchmaking records that many don’t even know about. It is one of the largest watch manufacturers on the planet, along with other affordable titans like Casio, Seiko, and Tissot.

The brand is synonymous with its advances in solar-powered technology, but its history dates far beyond that, to 1918. Citizen produced its first pocket watch in 1924 and its first wristwatch in 1931, followed by Japan’s first fully waterproof watch towards the end of the 1950s, dropping it out of a helicopter to test its durability.

The Parashock survived the ordeal, cementing Citizen’s reputation as a key producer of affordable, reliable wristwatches.

Citizen was also quick to adapt to the quartz watch climate, investing hugely in automated production lines. By the mid-1980s, it was producing more watches than any other brand in the world!

More industry firsts followed, with the first electronic watch and the first radio-controlled watch made from full metal, complete with an antenna.

Its Mega Quartz watch was the first in the world to measure an annual accuracy within 3 seconds. However, one of its most significant feats was the Eco-Drive, which led the way forward with its innovative solar-powered qualities.

A Brief History of Movado

Movado was founded in 1881, its name meaning “Always in Motion.” The company began by mounting and assembling pocket watch movements, but by 1903, the first use of the name Movado officially began appearing on designs.

The brand was one of the first to invest in watchmaking machinery, becoming a giant with a workforce of around 300 employees by the late 1940s. The early 1900s, however, marked the era of the Polyplan – an ultra-ergonomic timepiece with a uniquely curved case and movement.

Next came the Movado Ermeto, marketed as a trusty travel watch. It later acquired a mechanism allowing the movement to be wound via an opening in its hermetically sealed case.

Aside from Movado’s signed Ermeto collaborations, bearing prestigious names like Cartier, Tiffany, and Hermes on its dial, the brand experienced great success with a model named the Museum Watch.

The dress watch was a simple and beautiful timepiece designed by American-Jewish industrial designer Nathan George Horwitt in 1947. It focussed on the dot above the hands at 12 o’clock, a motif inspired by the sun. Once designed, Horwitt sold it to the Brooklyn Museum and then to the New York Metropolitan Museum.

Early in the 1950s, the then-merged Zenith Movado company produced an unauthorized version of the watch. Thus, a lengthy legal battle began between Horwitt and the watchmaker. 1975, the case was settled, and the Museum Watch aesthetics have since become the face of almost all of Movado’s modern designs.

Over the years, Movado’s gradual but growing emphasis on visually appealing watches as opposed to Swiss craftsmanship has led to the brand’s association as a fashion watch brand rather than a serious contender in the realm of Swiss luxury.

Model Variety

One thing Citizen doesn’t cut back on is variety. Thanks to a range of collections – each with a distinguishable aesthetic – there is a design for every occasion. The Tysoya is a playful sports watch that comes in several bright colors, perfect for exploring if you want your wrist to pop.

They have a slightly Tissot PRX-esque vibe, albeit without the tonneau-shaped case. The Tysoya features an integrated bracelet and tough steel case.

The self-titled Citizen range is sporty but in a different way. It’s a collection you should consider if you like the look of Grand Seiko watches but don’t have the budget for one. In contrast, the Promaster Diver features all the hallmarks we associate with dive watches from the Rolex Submariner era.

Think bold 1950s-inspired cases and chunky, luminous hour markers. The Promaster Air is equally as robust but is born for aviation, with a practical display, dual time functions, 99-minute count-down timers, alarms, and atomic clock synchronization.

Lastly, Citizen’s Eco-Drive collection is one of the largest and most diverse, with styles ranging from dress watches to chronographs – all of which utilize the brand’s solar-powered technology through a translucent dial.

It’s worth mentioning, however, that most Citizen watches are behemoths, so finding the right fit for a small wrist could prove somewhat challenging.

Movado’s catalog is not quite as diverse since many of its collections follow the design language of the famous Museum Watch. Subsequently, this minimalist dial, characterized by a large singular dot marker at 12 o’clock, has formed the backbone of the brand’s identity.

While some collectors feel it supports a strong and instantly recognizable brand DNA, others believe the watches lack innovation and creativity.

Still, if you do like the look of the single dot design, you’ll have plenty of choice since the Red Label, Bold, Esperanza, and Masino collections all faithfully follow the two-handed, hourless dial layout.

For something ultra-feminine, Movado offers the Bela line, with models in dainty 30mm cases that achieve a look of opulence and refinement, showcasing mother-of-pearl dials and scintillating diamond decoration.

The Movado Edge collection is another subtly different design, with a textured ripple-like dial pattern and a super-thin metal bangle for the bracelet.

For a design that steers away from the minimalist Museum Watch and its many similarly-inspired collections, the Swiss 800 is Movado’s sportier offering. These athletic watches have colored rotating aluminum bezels for measuring elapsed time underwater and a 200-meter water resistance.

Build Quality, Materials and Design

Comparing Movado with high-end watchmakers emphasizes the different aspects of luxury that exist across the industry because Movado is still classed as a luxury brand despite its association with the fashion brand sector.

It maintains high design standards but adopts a more accessible approach to watchmaking, highlighting the diverse interpretations across the horological world.

Movado uses high-grade stainless steel combined with materials like sapphire crystal and, occasionally, precious metals.

The brand challenges traditional notions of luxury with designs that, although powered by reliable Swiss movements, are not considered quite as adventurous as some of its most important competitors.

This factor alone has gone some way to diminishing its credibility among connoisseurs, even though its vintage models are some of the most collectible.

Aside from manufacturing its own movements, Citizen has dedicated many years to researching quality materials like titanium, even producing its own proprietary Super Titanium.

The material combines lightweight properties with surface-hardening technology for a more durable finish. The material is used alongside sapphire crystal glass, stainless steel, and straps, sometimes made from recyclable materials.

Comparing both brands, Citizen outshines Movado on the material and build front, especially since the brand is committed to sustainable practices and reducing its environmental impact with its innovative range of Eco-Drive watches – a series with which the brand is most synonymous.

Movements

Believe it or not, before the year 1970, pretty much every movement powering a Movado watch was engineered and designed in-house by the brand. It acquired around 98 Swiss patents between the years of 1900 and 1969.

The most notable movement of the lot was the Polyplan’s engine, designed to fit inside a curvaceous and wholly unique case back in 1912. As you can imagine, the movement itself needed to comply with the shape of the case, garnering the brand a ton of credit for its development of the Calibre 400.

The brand’s earlier mechanical movements of the hand-winding type bore a distinctive architecture, too, comprising scalloped wheel bridges and beautiful interior angles that demonstrated superior Swiss craftsmanship.

Even compared to Longines and Omega movements, Movado’s craftsmanship trumped the lot for its time. Those Movado watches that weren’t powered by an in-house movement were just as (if not more) popular, including the chronograph caliber 90M and 95M – both of which were head and shoulders above Valjoux and Omega movements.

The brand was among the first to develop a full range of automatic movements, dubbing one of its movements the “Futuramic,” thanks to its unique, forward-thinking architecture.

In 1969, Movado merged with Zenith and later became known as the Movado Group. The new entity marked a move towards more quartz and third-party mechanical movements.

On the other hand, Citizen has and still does produce its own movements. In fact, the brand owns the machinery used to make these movements and watches.

Each movement is a blend of precision machinery and the skill of a talented craftsman’s hand. From components so small you need a microscope to see them to others as thin as a strand of hair – Citizen’s integrated approach to watchmaking enables Citizen to have complete control over every stage of the process.

Citizen’s first movement for a wristwatch was the manual wound Calibre F in 1931, followed by its first electronic watch in 1966 and then the first quartz movement in 1973, before releasing the first solar-powered analog quartz watch in 1976.

Today, the brand offers a mix of automatic and quartz-powered watches. Yet, a commitment to harnessing the power of light has led to an outstanding range of economical watches that require no battery replacement.

Price

Generally speaking, Movado watches are priced between $500 and $3000 – some of the most expensive being those from the pre-owned market. Those fetching good prices on the second-hand market include the Kingmatic and the Edge.

They aren’t really considered good investments because of their low resale value, but vintage models garner a lot of attention from fans, notably the Museum Watch. These make for a great collectible timepiece and a unique talking point amongst enthusiasts.

You could expect to pay around $2000 for a brand-new Museum Classic watch – the brand’s most iconic design. Automatic chronographs, however, can cost a lot more. For around the $4000 mark, you can take home the Alta watch, one of the brand’s sportier designs.

However, Movado’s pricing can be considered rather adventurous for those who place importance on mechanical movement manufacture and have some knowledge of the competitive landscape surrounding different price points in the horological sphere.

The brand’s mass dependence on the quartz movement and its large-scale manufacture should technically reflect a less aggressive pricing structure, especially when compared with serious competitors like Tissot, Hamilton, and Longines.

In fact, these brands offer mechanical movements that are far more challenging to produce and are on par with the price of a Movado quartz.

Many collectors would consider the $2-4k mark a gateway into true entry-level watchmaking, and, to be honest, Movado’s materials, craftsmanship, and style are not in line with the likes of the most affordable Omega watches or a top dive watch from Seiko.

Of all the brands associated with value for money, Citizen must be near the top of that list. The brand’s innovations are synonymous with precision, and, what’s more, they last.

Citizen is one of the few brands to offer a five-year warranty, and when you pay for a watch made by this Japanese brand, you’re paying for a trusted name with over 100 years of experience crafting timepieces.

Citizen watches vary from around $200-$5000, averaging out at around $300. More surprisingly, the brand’s Eco-Drive watch is one of the most affordable of all, costing an average of around $200.

Suffice to say that if you want more innovation and bang for your buck in a watch, Citizen is the clear winner here.

Conclusion

There has always been a community for Movado watches. And while it may be dropping the ball with its modern pieces, a niche audience is still waxing lyrical about its vintage models.

They are flat out some of the best watches of their era, and Movado’s history is a rich one, whether you’re a fan of its more style-conscious models of today or not.

And who is to say the brand won’t revisit some of its most popular models of yesteryear? If it did, it would likely resuscitate an entire legion of cult-like followers who have long awaited the brand to revert to its old watchmaking approach. If done the right way, these heritage-inspired pieces would really matter today.

Right now, though, the brand continues to inspire new upstart brands who are looking to reference what the brand has in its archives. If that sounds like you, and you like the idea of a Cartier Prive but can’t stand to part with that much money, a pre-owned Movado may be just the ticket for you. The brand has it in spades.

As it stands, Movado is a watch brand targeting the affordable luxury watch sector. It aims to satisfy a specific type of collector – someone who wants a recognizable name on the dial but prefers the ease of a simple, low-maintenance quartz watch.

Likewise, the brand’s automatics are aimed at fans of Swiss design but aren’t led by in-house manufacturer when choosing a watch.

Citizen watches are unquestionably more sophisticated on a technical level than Movado watches. The brand’s wide range of watches occupies an accessible price point, appealing to an equally broad audience, from classic dress watch wearers to sports watch collectors and robust adventure watches.

Its Eco-Drive technology is also a major draw for environmentally conscious consumers, while Citizen’s lightweight and ergonomically crafted titanium sports watches are perfect for outdoor goers and athletes.

Neither Movado nor Citizen are high-end luxury watchmakers. Instead, they appeal to consumers looking for affordable luxury. But while Movado watches will resonate with those with an appetite for modern simplicity and sleek, minimalist aesthetics, Citizen’s fan base is the tool-focused type.

Because Citizen watches offer more by way of features and materials and are more technically complex, they provide remarkable value-for-money and even have a cheaper starting price than Movado.

On the contrary, watch collectors struggle with Citizen’s lack of small sizes for less-endowed wrists. However, some options like the classic-looking Tsuyosa and ultra-thin models like the Eco-Drive One make their respective watch’s overall proportions feel more manageable.

To summarise, Movado is a suitable option if you’re looking for a brand that focuses on an elegant design language instead of mechanical engineering. But if innovative technology gets you excited and you want more functionality from your watch, it has to be Citizen all the way.

Rolex vs Timex – The Analogy You Didn’t Think Existed

Nina S

May 10, 2025

Timex is a watch brand predominantly associated with creating affordable, good-looking watches for everyday wear. But in recent years, it has upped its game with releases like the North Expedition.

The expensive tool watch occupies a niche space within the brand’s catalog, appealing to higher-end collectors for the first time.

This release threw the brand into an arena with the likes of TUDOR and its big sister, Rolex. And while you’d be right in thinking that Timex and Rolex compete on very different levels, there are indeed some ways in which we can compare both manufacturers to see how a budget brand like Timex fairs up against the world’s most famous horological giant, Rolex. Here is an in-depth guide to Timex vs Rolex.

Brand Heritage

Both Timex and Rolex have impressive histories stretching over a century. Rolex, founded in 1905, is very much the legacy of one man, Hans Wilsdorf, who coined the Rolex name in 1908. In the early days, Rolex was already winning awards for its chronometer-certified designs and received the Class A Precision from the Kew Observatory in 1914.

The first office was opened in La Chaux de Fonds, and the brand soon gained a reputation for excellence, crafting the first waterproof and dustproof watch in 1926, followed by the first waterproof, self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual rotor.

Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual watch was deemed technically proficient when worn on the wrist of Mercedes Gleitz – the first female to swim across the English Channel in 1927, while its completion of the Everest expedition on the wrist of Sir Edmund Hillary marked not just a technical first but one of the greatest human achievements in history.

Rolex is still innovating today, drawing from its expertise as a vertically integrated company and using that control and power to its advantage when creating its many examples of horological alchemy.

Timex was founded in 1854 and was initially named the Waterbury Clock Company – a name that Timex later went on to name one of their watches after.

It produced its first wristwatch in 1950, following its success as a pocket watchmaker. In 1960, it made the Timex Marlin, known for its slim silhouette, followed by its first waterproof watch, the Mercury.

Over the years, the brand has maintained a close relationship with sports, releasing the Ironman, which became an icon amongst sports watches and a watch of choice for many professional athletes.

In 1992, the company launched its Indiglo backlight technology, illuminating a dial with a simple button press. It was a major breakthrough for its time and still serves as one of the key hallmarks of Timex’s watchmaking.

Model Variety

The great thing about Timex is that its models start from as little as $25 and never really crest above the $500 mark. Its catalog is vast, turning many young enthusiasts to the world of watches before they even realized they had an interest in them.

For others, Timex is a brand associated with childhood, being the first brand name they recall seeing on the dial of a watch.

Quartz options exist for those buying on a budget, and automatics are available for those curious about entering the world of horology.

One model that really signifies the brand’s contribution to mechanical watchmaking is the Giorgio Galli, which takes its name from the Milan-based Timex designer. The Giorgio Galli features hollowed lugs, giving it a distinct appearance compared to other models in the brand’s portfolio, especially when viewed side-on.

One watch you may have heard of is the Timex Marlin. The brand redesigned and reissued the watch a few years ago, preserving some subtle 1960s-esque features and equipping it with a hand-wound movement.

The brand produced some collaborative efforts in the form of the Marlin, including the iteration created with designer and retailer Todd Snyder.

These simple-looking watches feature Arabic numeral hour tracks, unlike the more contemporary-looking Easy Reader watch.

According to Timex, the Easy Reader was the most popular wristwatch during the late 1970s, putting legibility and simplicity at the forefront of its design with a bare white dial and crisp black numerals.

Rolex may sometimes get accused of playing things too safe, but even Timex stands by some rather unimaginative designs like the classic and simple Timex Standard. These models range in size from 34mm to 43mm and come in chronograph form as well, while the Timex Waterbury is a stylish mid-century timepiece with bucketloads of class and charm.

The Arabic numeral hour markers and leaf-shaped hands of a Waterbury watch timelessly capture the brand’s heritage.

These features combine with a sloping set of lugs and polished round bezel, enabling the watch to wear neatly on the wrist, even in the case of the larger sizes of the collection, which measure up to 42mm in diameter.

Timex’s more masculine offerings are just as good-looking. Take, for example, the Expedition watch, infused with the charm of a field watch.

An inner 24-hour track notches the functionality factor up a gear, while the Timex Navy looks incredibly cool on a striped NATO strap for those seeking a watch with strong military vibes.

Suffice to say, the Timex catalogue has an impressive array of designs that span from the understated and simple to the edgier, slightly vintage-inspired tool watch.

And if you’re spoilt for choice, you could potentially own several Timex watches for the same price as one Rolex, so you’ll certainly have a variety of styles to play around with.

On the other hand, Rolex has a much smaller offering for collections and styles. Those collections it does offer have been around for decades, with differences in dial colors and sometimes materials often being the only newness Rolex brings to the table each year.

That said, its huge fan base often has very little to complain about when these lines are extended. The hype that builds around the speculation before a release sends collectors into a frenzy, propelling prices on the pre-owned market each time a new, highly desirable model is launched.

The oldest model in Rolex’s catalog is the Oyster Perpetual, which traces its lineage back to 1926. Still, the most collectible is arguably the Submariner, which launched almost thirty years later, incorporating the Oyster case and serving as an archetype for all dive watches that followed.

Its highly legible hands, rotating timing bezel, and robust, water-resistant case instantly made it the tool of choice for professional and recreational divers. Yet, over the years, Rolex has extended the line with several iconic collectibles, like the “Kermit,” “Hulk,” “Starbucks,” “Bluesy” and “Smurf.”

The Rolex Sub was the watch worn on Bond’s wrist in the 1962 film “Dr, No.” securing itself a strong position in the pantheon of pop culture.

As the brand’s developments in dive watch technology advanced, more water-resistant watches arrived, such as the 1970s Sea-Dweller and the much later Deepsea, which launched in the 2000s.

Rolex’s GMT-Master II is yet another highly covetable model, following on from the former GMT-Master – a watch released for Pan American World in 1955. It was used as a timekeeping tool for long-haul flights.

Equipped with a 24-hour scale on the bezel, the brand’s blue and red-themed “Pepsi” version earned itself an iconic nickname, while the “Batman” and “Batgirl” versions are the non-soda-themed alternatives to collectibles like the “Root Beer.”

Just like Timex offers a range of dressier timepieces, Rolex’s Day-Date and Datejust models are perfect for pairing with a more classic wardrobe. The Day-Date is a more dressed-up model yet no less sturdily crafted. It was the first watch to bear the date and day on its dial.

This watch has steel, platinum, and gold variations and many dials and sizes to choose from. Movie stars, athletes, and world leaders have sported the Day-Date over the years, while the Datejust is another resolutely classic companion, marking an earlier release date and the first watch to feature a date window on the dial. It was released to commemorate the brand’s 40th anniversary, becoming its bestselling model.

Of all the sports watches in the world, the Rolex Datejust has to be one of the most popular. Styled on the wrist of Paul Newman, some models have become the most expensive to own in the world.

The Daytona has a strong motorsport-inspired aesthetic with a trio of chronograph sub-dials and a tachymeter scale, the Paul Newman iterations proving the most desirable of all (one of which was owned by the legendary actor himself, selling for $17.75 million).

Design

Despite Rolex and Timex having very different backgrounds and histories, both brands share similar-looking designs. Take, for example, the Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi and Timex’s Q GMT. Both of these models sit at significantly different price points but look very similar in design.

First and foremost, the GMT-Master II is one of Rolex’s most iconic designs, so for two watches at such disparate price points, it becomes somewhat difficult to objectively compare quality and materials, especially when a lot of the value in a Rolex watch equates to status.

Still, both models are crafted from stainless steel, and both feature the instantly recognizable “Pepsi” bezel that Rolex made famous in 2014, albeit with the GMT-Master II featuring a black dial and the Timex Q GMT presenting time on a blue one. Of course, being a much more affordable option, a difference in quality can undoubtedly be seen and felt in the Timex model. The stainless steel bracelet is not as well engineered, but the watch does boast some incredible retro-inspired styling.

Rolex is globally renowned for its world-class superlative chronometers, too. But for an easy, fuss-free daily beater, the Timex Q GMT is undoubtedly a great alternative and one that benefits from the accuracy of a simple quartz movement.

In that same vein, both Rolex and Timex offer a white steel sports watch with loosely similar features and aesthetics. The Timex x Huckleberry Navi XL Automatic Arctic watch and the Rolex Explorer II have bright white dials, steel bezels, and matching orange accentsaccents but are priced very differently.

The layout of the Timex watch is more diverse than the field, with chunky luminous hour markers and a Cyclops date window.

On the other hand, the Rolex Explorer II – a fully fledged adventure watch – shares the same 24-hour inner scale but features a jumping hour GMT hand. Both watches are powered by mechanical movements, too.

But while the Timex x Huckleberry features more of a workhorse movement than a monument to horological handcraft, the Explorer II movement has the build, quality, and refinement synonymous with a superlative chronometer, boasting Rolex’s Chronergy escapement and Parachrom hairspring.

Build Quality and Materials

Let’s get one thing clear: Timex doesn’t make its own materials, which should automatically put the brand on the back foot when compared to a brand like Rolex. And it kind of does, to an extent.

You can’t really compare the quality of a Timex watch vs a Rolex watch because the latter will win hands down on innovation. What you need to know, however, is that Timex watches are still reliable and robust despite not being made from proprietary materials.

Most Timex watches are crafted from stainless steel with acrylic, mineral, and sapphire crystals. Of course, sapphire is a premium material, and that’s why Rolex uses sapphire in all of its watches.

Also, some Timex watches are crafted from titanium, offering a stronger and lighter composition than traditional steel.

Ever wondered what all of Rolex’s terms mean? Like Rolesor, Oystersteel, and Everose? These are the brand’s proprietary materials, developed in-house at the company’s material research and design center.

Rolex even produces its own gold and uses premium 904L stainless steel – a material used extensively in the aeronautics industry.

The ability to smelt its own metals is one thing, but the brand also has its own name for bi-metal designs, namely Rolesor, relating to the company’s gold and steel two-tone innovations. This term can denote an Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold combination or those models that combine Oystersteel with Everose – the brand’s own rose gold metal.

Rolesium refers to the brand’s steel and platinum models, offering extra toughness and a weightier finish on the wrist, while Cerachrom is Rolex’s own ceramic material, which proposes anti-fading qualities, which the company utilizes in its bezels.

Back to Timex, however, one of its most remarkable feats was the development of its patented Indiglo light technology. It was an instant revelation. The fact that the brand could lay claim to an in-house development gave the watches featuring Indiglo technology superiority.

Timex created and patented the Indiglo Corporation, allowing it to control the technology similarly to how Rolex has purchased practically every third-party vendor to claim every aspect of Rolex watchmaking as its own.

Movements

So, as you’ll have gathered by now, Timex doesn’t produce its own movements, but the movements it does use are incredibly precise, some of which trump Rolex for accuracy. Timex watches come in analog, digital, and ana-digi combos.

The brand also uses a mixture of quartz, automatic, and hand-wound movements, so there’s certainly an option for every budget.

Some of the brand’s hand-wound watches are powered by Seagull ST6 movements and are made in China. Understandably, sourcing these movements keeps the brand’s costs down. Other movements are Japanese-crafted, such as the Miyota 8215, used in the Expedition Titanium.

Rolex movements are certainly superior to Timex movements and are all developed in-house, benefitting from several technological feats.

One is the Parachom hairspring, which is designed for superior precision and enhanced by the brand’s very own shock-absorbing Paraflex components. The brand also manufactures its own take on the Swiss lever escapement, which promises increased energy efficiency.

Rolex acquired the Aegler company, which manufactured its movements in 2004, absorbing it into the brand. The most popular Rolex movements to date are those such as the Calibre 3135, which is utilized for its simplicity and reliability in models like the Submariner, Yacht-Master, and Datejust.

Rolex technologies are continually advancing, with recent details emerging of the brand’s quest to develop a natural escapement.

Price Point

It’s a well-known fact that Timex is a much more affordable brand than Rolex. Even if you know very little about the watch world, you’ll have guessed that acquiring a Rolex takes a fair amount of saving up.

Timex watches can be purchased for under $50. You’ll get a standard quartz movement and a very basic design for that. But as the watches creep up the price scale, you begin to get a feel for the brand’s value-for-money ethos.

Some of the hand-wound and automatic-powered watches can cost less than quartz, indicating that you pay for the functions and features of these watches as much as the movement type itself.

Rarely will a Timex watch reach the $1k price tag, but those that do are the contemporary-looking S2 watch and the most recent of all – the titanium-crafted Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti.

In contrast, the cheapest Rolex watches are those like the Milgauss, which sells new for around £8,500, and the Explorer for around $6,500. Additionally, you can pick up the no-date Sub for around $7,500.

On the other end of the spectrum, highly covetable models sell for much more on the pre-owned market, like the Submariner “Hulk,” for which you can expect to pay around $18,000.

Conclusion

Rolex is the king of luxury; there is no arguing that fact, but that doesn’t mean a watch from the Crown brand is your best bet.

There are circumstances where a Timex watch may be a better option, and although the two brands are worlds apart in some respects, in others, they can be compared, at least to a degree. Even some avid Rolex fans would argue a case for the Timex being a neat alternative to their favourite Rolex.

Think about it. Would you choose to do yard work in your 18k gold Sub when you can put a cheaper Timex tool on your wrist?

Timex is the more accessible brand of the two, and unlike Rolex, its watches don’t come with an extortionate price tag and a ridiculous waiting list.

And regardless of how much you scour the pre-owned market hoping to drop on a complete steal, you’ll never find a Rolex watch as cheap as a Timex unless it’s a counterfeit.

Accuracy-wise, there’s also an argument for Timex. The brand’s Ironman has an accuracy rating of +/- 5 seconds per week compared to the Rolex Sea-Dweller’s accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day.

At the end of the day, time is time, and if accuracy is your utmost priority in a watch, it makes sense to spend less on a more accurate watch, especially when the difference between the two is some $9000.

Believe it or not, Timex was also a watch of choice for presidents. Sure, Rolex has a history steeped in celebrity status (the brand even has a collection dubbed the President’s Watch), but Bill Clinton and Bush also wore Timex watches during their time as presidents.

On the other hand, Rolex, a younger watch on paper compared to Timex, has a much more impressive history, having produced its proprietary waterproofing system for its casing (the Oyster case with threaded crown), as well as the first perpetual wristwatch and the first timepiece to display the date on the dial.

Rolex made a product line and never really deviated from it. Some would say this was far from adventurous and could accuse the company of being boring or playing things too safe. Nevertheless, its core lines have a solid, unwavering track record of success, amplifying its reputation.

Consistency is key and fosters a strong relationship with its consumer base, who have a very clear image of what a Rolex is and what they want in a watch.

And there it lies: the pros and cons of the Timex watch versus the Rolex watch. For brand recognition and superior materials, it has to be Rolex.

But for affordability, fun, and a good quality movement, Times seems to be a solid low-to-mid-priced contender for the Crown brand, and fans of both sides are beginning to realize this as Timex’s designs continue to move towards the upper echelons of watchmaking.

Is It Fair to Compare Invicta With Rolex? Let’s Find Out

Nina S

May 9, 2025

For fans far and wide across the globe, Rolex watches are the epitome of everything a grail watch should be. Quality craftsmanship, iconic codes of design, and in-house mechanics.

Can most of us afford one? No. It begs the question, how good is Invicta compared to Rolex, and can its watches quell the desire for a grail watch, even if only until we can afford that platinum Daytona? Let’s see…

The burning question that gets in the way of determining a clear-cut winner when it comes to the Rolex vs Invicta debate is, “Are Invicta watches any good?” It’s the million-dollar question because we already know that Rolex is a good brand.

Indeed, the proof is in the pudding with a Rolex watch. The brand produces classic models that never fail to capture the hearts (and wallets) of nations with their exceptionally well-built designs.

Whether you have the money to buy a Rolex is another matter. And unless you’ve recently discovered abundant oil reserves in your backyard, you’ll unlikely have the finances to buy more than one. Instead, affordable alternatives are the reality for most of us.

Even serious Rolex collectors will admit they have a cheap daily “runabout” watch for yard work. So, could an Invicta be “that watch”? Could it even suffice as a work watch?

A Monday through Friday kind of companion? Could it be the tool watch you’d rather wear because you don’t want to prang your gleaming gold Rolex up?

Before we go any further and compare these two brands for factors like craftsmanship, quality, and design, let’s recap on each brand’s standout features.

Some Quick Facts About Invicta Watches

Interestingly, Invicta started as a Swiss brand but has also earned its place amongst some of the most reputable American brands, too. Why, you ask? Well, although the watchmaker was founded in La Choux de Fonds, it later moved to Hollywood, Florida, after being sold to an American family after the Quartz Crisis.

The relocation of the brand’s headquarters to the US and its growing popularity in America during the 1990s made it particularly affordable. Then, in 2000, Invicta began making its own proprietary movements as part of Technical Swiss Ebauche.

Invicta is a brand that mass produces watches, enabling it to keep prices low, where the differences between this brand and Rolex become more apparent.

As a matter of fact, the accessibility of an Invicta watch compared to a Rolex watch is what makes it somewhat less desirable. Rolex watches are produced in much more controlled quantities to feed consumer demand.

At a glance, there are pros to an Invicta watch. The brand offers a vast range of choices, with over 4000 different designs available, and the fact that they’re so financially accessible makes them fun to wear and collect.

To an extent, I do believe that investing in a cheaper watch subconsciously alleviates any inhibitions you may have about wearing a $30k watch, for example.

On the other hand, Invicta has been accused of being an homage brand. There is nothing illegal or wrong about an homage watch, and it should not be confused with a fake or counterfeit one.

Even so, homage watches appeal to those shopping on a budget, and if you are going to choose an homage Rolex watch, Invicta is one of the best out there.

For some, the Pro-Diver is the closest they’ll ever get to owning a Submariner, and its quality and price certainly aren’t to be scoffed at, either.

Lastly, because Invicta started as a Swiss company but set up home in America, many watch enthusiasts see the watchmaker as nothing more than a fashion brand. Still, there is more to this brand than meets the eye, and if affordability and quality materials are important to you, you could certainly do a lot worse than an Invicta watch.

Some Quick Facts About Rolex Watches

Here’s a plot twist for you. Rolex was not founded in Switzerland. The brand emerged from London in 1905, founded by a German watchmaker living in the UK. Much to people’s disbelief, the name “Rolex” means very little when you break it down.

It wasn’t named after its founder and bears no relevance to the brand’s history. In fact, when creating the name for this brand, all its co-founder Alfred Davies was looking for was a five-letter word that looked good on a dial.

Rolex pioneered the first waterproof wristwatch in 1926. It was named the Rolex Oyster and featured a case design that later became the backbone of every watch to follow.

The brand can also lay claim to several world record-breaking moments, including being strapped around the neck of the first woman to swim across the English Channel and the first watch to reach the summit of Mt. Everest.

The launch of its first self-winding rotor also became a pivotal moment in the watch world in 1931, and the brand has a long list of iconic watches under its belt.

But whether it’s the brand’s ability to create watches that can reach depths of 35,798 meters underwater that appeals to you most or its vertically integrated setup, no one can deny the reputation of this world-renowned brand.

Brand Heritage

Here’s the thing you may not have even expected to read about Invicta. The brand does actually have a history.

And that history stems back to when Invicta was committed to manufacturing everything from elegant calendars to complicated pocket watches, which explains why some of the company’s vintage models add value and interest to a collection.

Invicta was a family-led company right up until the point it hit financial troubles. This wasn’t unusual for a Swiss watchmaker. In fact, many businesses closed down altogether as a result of the crushing Quartz Crisis.

Those that didn’t do so had to change course and find a way to survive, many of them (including Rolex) producing quartz examples. Invicta is now owned by American brand Invicta Watch Group, which also owns Glycine.

Despite any misconceptions about this brand being a fashion watch company with zero history, it’s pretty plausible that many collectors have uncovered a more profound interest in watches through this brand. Invicta can trace its origins back to 1837, and its name, representing the Latin word for “Invincible,” is a nod to the company’s grit and determination over the centuries.

Although the brand tried to survive the 1970s by manufacturing quartz options, it eventually hit financial difficulty, selling its assets to an American company in the 1990s.

Many don’t realize that Invicta became a leader in the online shopping concept, selling its watches on many different e-commerce platforms and penetrating all corners of the world. From this point onwards, Invicta grew and is now the creator of some incredibly bold, larger-than-life designs. Some of the company’s most famous designs today are the Pro Diver, the Speedway, and the Aviator.

Rolex’s history, however, began with one man’s vision to create a watch with equal elegance and reliability. The brand’s relentless persistence for chronometer precision quickly led to its success, and in 1919, it became the first brand to be awarded a certificate for chronometric precision.

This horological feat was quickly followed by the first waterproof watch in 1926 after the brand relocated to Geneva from Bienne.

A few years later, Rolex mastered the ingenious system of the perpetual rotor, releasing the first self-winding watch. Before long, the brand was discovering ways to showcase the technical performance of the Oyster in different ways, namely in motorsport, aviation, and sports watches. 1945 saw the arrival of the iconic Datejust watch with a date window on the dial.

Its Jubilee bracelet and fluted bezel were immediate giveaways of this unique-looking design, while the 1950s welcomed the brand’s GMT-Master as the height of the transatlantic flight.

The famous Pan Am Airlines became synonymous with the design, its most visual feature being the two-tone bezel with defining night and day sections.

Before this milestone launch, however, Rolex had been making waves in the dive watch world, inventing the iconic Submariner watch in 1953 with a water-resistant capability of 100 meters and a rotating bezel for measuring immersion time against the central minute hand.

The 1960s was defined by the motorsport-inspired Cosmograph watch, which wasn’t actually an instant hit until it was sported on the wrist of Paul Newman. The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona had a tachymetric scale and a chronograph dial that later became one of the brand’s most expensive collectibles.

Between the 1970s and 1990s, Rolex focused on creating exceptionally robust watches like the Explorer II, the 1,200-meter water-resistant Sea-Dweller, and the Yacht-Master. In recent years, Rolex has been building on these collections, modifying each design’s defining features and crafting its components with a vertically integrated infrastructure.

Model Variety and Design

So, we’ve established that Rolex is a master at creating iconic designs. Some of the brand’s most influential have featured on the silver screen and the wrists of many famous Hollywood stars, athletes, and political personnel.

Barack Obama, Winston Churchill, Steve McQueen, Martin Luther King, Jay-Z, and Paul Newman are among some of the most famous wearers of the Rolex name, not to mention sporting professionals Roger Federer and Tiger Woods.

But we can use examples like the Pro Diver and Submariner in comparing the design and model variety of a Rolex watch vs an Invicta watch.

The Pro Diver is Invicta’s powerful dive watch, and while many would argue this watch lacks innovation due to its similarities with the Sub, it also makes for one of the best alternatives to Rolex’s famed diver, mainly for its price point and materials. But how good are Invicta watches when compared to Rolex?

These two watches may look like twins, but one is a lot more expensive, and these differences will be easy to pick out by any hardcore Rolex collector.

To the untrained eye, the Pro Diver is a solid option with diver-like hour markers and hands similar to the Sub and a unidirectional bezel. The Invicta option, however, is not quite as water-resistant as the Submariner, offering 200m water resistance as opposed to Rolex’s 300m.

But you’d be wrong if you thought the Pro Diver is flimsier because it’s cheaper. The finish is good on this more affordable alternative, and it’s made from stainless steel (not 904L, mind you).

It also benefits from the reliability of a Seiko movement that can compete with a Rolex caliber on several levels. The main plus, however, is that you can wear the Pro Diver without worrying about the cost of repairing or replacing it if it gets damaged.

On the whole, wearing a Rolex watch is about conveying that all important sense of luxury and sophistication with a range of timepieces that lean towards classic styles. On the other hand, Invicta watches are about affordability, with bold, large, and slightly more modern design language.

Build Quality and Materials

Build quality and materials are where Rolex trumps Invicta and many other affordable competitors on the market, too. Rolex is a vertically integrated company that builds its watches from the ground up.

What this means is that the brand has complete freedom and flexibility over its design approach. The company also has its own research and development department dedicated to innovating proprietary movements like its Everose alloy and Cerachrom – a durable ceramic compound that resists the effects of fading caused by sunlight.

Rolex also creates the components it uses inside its meticulously engineered movements, including the Parachrom hairspring and its Chronergy escapement system.

It’s not the only brand manufacturing movement components, but this factor alone appeals to devoted collectors who wouldn’t consider buying anything other than a timepiece powered by a Manufacture movement.

Invicta watches do not possess the same appeal and instead conduct themselves somewhat differently. Sometimes, the brand opts for cheaper alternatives to keep costs down, like mineral glass instead of sapphire and gold-plated case materials that can scratch and wear more easily.

The phrase “you get what you pay for” applies when comparing Rolex and Invicta watches. Rolex materials justify the brand’s insane prices, but that’s all part of their appeal as statements of luxury.

Movements

So, Invicta doesn’t manufacture its own case materials or watch components, and its design process does not happen in-house. But it does equip its watches with movements manufactured by the most famous of all Japanese brands – Seiko. Seiko movements are respected globally for their reliability and precision.

One of the company’s most popular and well-used engines is the 4R36, which guarantees an accuracy of around +45 to -36 seconds a day. Higher grade examples are those like the 6R15, with an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. This manufacturer developed the Hi-Beat movement and innovated the revolutionary Spring Drive movement that you see in elegant Grand Seiko collectibles.

In contrast, the development and manufacture of a Rolex movement takes place at the foot of the Jura mountains, in the brand’s Bienne-based facilities, where the picturesque landscapes of the Swiss mountains and crisp, bright blue skies form the backdrop to the brand’s roots.

As a manufacturer dedicated to pure, unadulterated Swiss precision, each Rolex movement guarantees longevity, strength, and stamina. From Rolex’s perpetual rotor to its durable hairsprings, each watch bearing this prestigious name on its dial exemplifies this in-house expertise and meticulous craftsmanship, making it just as respected for its movements as for its design.

Price

There are no two ways about it: Rolex watches are much more expensive than Invicta watches. Brand prestige, quality materials, and movement are all factors that determine the high price of these watches.

On average, you can expect to pay around $13k for a Rolex. But for pre-owned models, it’s very common to see sought-after models from the Daytona Submarine of GMT-Master lines go for double or triple that price.

The opposite can be said for Invicta watches. These are cheap to start with, costing around $300, but they sell for a third of the price in the pre-owned market.

Since these watches are abundant on the primary and secondary market, they aren’t considered collectibles and don’t retain their value. On the other hand, Rolex is the king of value retention.

Of all the prestigious luxury watchmakers on the market, Rolex produces watches that hold their value or appreciate the most. So, if you’re looking for an investment proposition, Rolex wins hands down on this front.

Conclusion

Choosing between Invicta or Rolex depends on what you want in a watch. If you don’t mind the idea of a third-party movement and a not-so-well-known brand name, Invicta is certainly worth some consideration.

For some enthusiasts, an homage watch is their only reality; there’s nothing wrong with that. The brand’s sports, dive, and aviation watches still deliver on the quality front, although not to the same degree as an immortal Rolex.

Comparing two brands that compete on two different levels is tricky. One is esteemed for its revolutionary designs that carry iconic status; the other produces cheaper alternatives en masse for those who don’t want to pay Rolex prices.

For many, an experienced collector, nothing will ever come close to a Rolex. But for those working on a different budget, Invicta could provide a gateway into the watch-collecting sphere with adequate materials, quality movements, and bold designs.

Cartier Tank vs Santos – Comparing These Two Iconic Models

Nina S

April 12, 2025

There seems to be a general consensus amongst luxury watch enthusiasts that only those brands with at least a century’s worth of history and experience behind their designs are worthy of being amongst the elite of the Haute Horlogerie universe.

Of course, that’s not true, and there are many up-and-coming names and micro-brands, not to mention young watchmakers making waves across the industry with their influential designs.

But for the purposes of comparing one Cartier watch with another, we can at least say that both of these models come from the same respectable, independent watchmaker, who has over 100 years of know-how and heritage behind its name.

The Cartier Santos and Cartier Tank are among the French luxury brand’s most famous and popular watches of all time. They’re also loved for very different reasons.

Cartier has an illustrious history, and the Tank and Santos have served as two pillars of outstanding craftsmanship and success, marking watershed moments for the brand.

Should you be contemplating which model you’d like to embellish your collection with, you may require a little extra assistance to accompany your research. In this article, we’ll compare the history, materials, design, movements and the prices of both models as the Cartier Tank goes head- to-head with the Cartier Santos.

The Cartier Tank

To many, the Cartier Tank may seem very simple in design. But while it embodies a purity that is appreciated amongst discerning collectors, it also tells the story of an unlikely design.

One that didn’t follow the conventional shape, yet reached the heights of popularity in a profound way with a unique design inspired by military tanks of the First World War…

The History of the Tank

The Cartier Tank first came to life in 1917 with its bold rectangular design that stood out drastically amongst a sea of Art Nouveau-inspired timepieces.

It echoed the profile of the Renault FT-17 machines of WWI with clear, structured lines that defied the conventions of its time, marking the beginning of a creative era in watchmaking.

The Tank set a new precedent for modernity and outside-of-the-box thinking. The case was formed by a set of parallel lines that Cartier likes to call “brancards” and the dial was occupied by sword-shaped hands and Roman numeral hour markers.

The crown at the side of the case was set with a blue sapphire cabochon – a hallmark of many Cartier watches. Lastly, its simple yet decadent design came equipped with a traditional leather strap for easy wearing.

The Tank actually took some influential cues from its predecessor, the Santos, yet the gently elongated case shape and clean lines gave it an elegant personality of its own.

It was one of the first examples to take influences from the Art Deco style, appealing to those brave enough to wear something that went against the grain.

It would be 1919, however, before the first Cartier Tank watch would go on sale. It’s what we now call the Tank Normale, which preceded the Tank Cintree – both of which were led under the innovative direction of Louis Cartier himself.

The Cintree, however, was slightly more elongated, fully celebrating the unusual appeal of the rectangular case with a cambered case and stretched Roman numerals. The inaugural Normale, however, was produced in limited runs, making these originals some of the most covetable of all.

The watch also became ubiquitous on silver screen, starring in the 1926 film “The Son Of The Sheik”. The brand re-launched many historical Tank designs much later on, including the aforementioned Tank Cintree, which arrived in 2018 with iterations available in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold.

The Cintree is an acquired taste. Because it looks rather different to other Tank models, it’s often overlooked until experienced on the wrist.

Back to the Tank’s history, though. The Tank Chinoise arrived later, resuming the more squared case shape similar to the Normale. It featured upper and lower brancards inspired by East Asian temples.

As time went on, subtle changes were gradually implemented into the collection, including the gently rounded corners of the Tank Louis Cartier case, donating a softer, albeit geometric profile.

Its scalloped edges offered a striking take on the watch and soon became the classic “Tank” style by which all other models are compared to.

The Tank Louis Cartier, otherwise known as the Tank LC was by far one of the most iconic interpretations of the Tank during the roaring 20s and was exclusively manufactured in precious metal, making it an appealing dress watch option for special occasions.

These models were eventually made available in quartz-powered versions, however the purist of ways to experience the model today would be in manually wound form.

This brings us to the historical chapters that outline some of the most important versions of the Tank watch – each one becoming a renowned component of the larger Tank collection. Here they are in a little more detail.

The Tank Models

Let’s fast forward to 1977 – the year of the Cartier Tank de Must – a watch that launched during the era of the Quartz Crisis and a more affordable period of watch collecting. To keep up with the demand for accessible wristwatches, Cartier released the Tank de Must in gold-plated silver or brass.

Today, this line still exists, accommodating the Solar Beat variations that absorb light through their dials. A second sub- line has since been built out, too – the Tank Solo – a series of affordable quartz-powered steel models.

The Tank Americaine followed the quartz period with a curved case that looked similar to the Cintree. These iterations featured a small seconds or moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, adding another layer of technical sophistication to the Tank design.

These models are curved on the dial side with flat casebacks and have recently launched in steel for the first time (2017).

Cartier continued the legacy of the iconic Tank watch in 1996 with the launch of the Tank Francaise, boasting a squared case design and a refined link bracelet that exuded a sportier presence.

In 2012, Cartier released the Tank Anglaise – a much bolder and more modern design with prominent brancards and a chunkier profile for a bolder wrist presence.

This design showcased the crown embedded into the brancards, forming one of the most distinctive designs within the collection. This blend of traditional and modern features serves to articulate the journey of the classic Tank and its evolution over the decades.

Today, the Cartier Tank is still one of the most alluring designs to own and has been spotted on the wrists of royalty, as well as famous faces like Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy and Andy Warhol.

Above all, it’s a highly popular collectible due to its minimalist design, striking rectangular shape, timeless aesthetics, impeccable movements, and its ability to retain value.

The Cartier Santos

Similarly, the Cartier Santos is one of the brand’s most enduring designs to date and is once again defined by its unconventional shaped case.

Suffice to say, if you like to steer away from the traditional round case and you like vintage-looking watches that carry a curious and intriguing history, either the Tank or Santos is going to appeal to you for similar reasons.

Yet the Santos is steeped in an aviation heritage, blending luxurious square-shaped aesthetics with pilot-friendly functionality.

The collection ranges from stainless steel models to exquisite diamond-set creations and skeleton editions that show the workings of some of Cartier’s most impressive mechanical movements.

The History of the Cartier Santos

The story of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont highlighted the need for a highly practical wrist-worn tool for flying. The pocket watch was impractical for such duties, thus Cartier responded to the request with a flat watch with a square bezel and a strap.

Santos-Dumont became the first pilot to sport the wristwatch during flight. The design was inspired by an earlier square-shaped Cartier pocket watch and featured an Art Deco-inspired dial that was crisp and highly legible and went on to define the 1920s and 1930s, as did the Tank.

Earning the distinction of being the first men’s wristwatch, the unorthodox watch design went down in history and is still available today. The first models were made available to the general public in 1911 but have since undergone modifications that have helped evolve the watch into the practical, yet instantly recognisable model it is today.

The Santos Models

With screws that bolted down the watch glass, inspired by the legs of the Eiffel tower and a Roman numeral hour track that echoed the streets and boulevards of Paris, there is no denying that the Cartier Santos watch was unique, both in design and aesthetics.

When the watch hit the shelves in 1911, options in platinum and yellow gold became available. The brand then went on to create the deployant clasp (before innovating the QuickSwitch clasp) and played a pivotal role in defining the era that made the man’s wristwatch both acceptable and stylish.

During the 1970s, Cartier was inspired by the stainless steel sports watch and the penned Gerald Genta designs that took the world by storm.

It turned to the Santos to capitalise on the trend, redesigning it and renaming it the Santos de Cartier in 1978. It switched out the classic leather band for an integrated metal bracelet and debuted in stainless steel.

Similar to changing tactics during the quartz era with a battery-powered Tank, Cartier also revised and renamed the Santos during the 1980s with the large-wearing Santos Galbee, before the arrival of the Santos 100 in 2004, marking the model’s centenary.

After lying dormant for a decade, the brand relaunched the Santos in 2018 with a modern collection of timepieces each featuring curvier lugs and cases. The range came with several patent-pending features including a SmartLink system for its bracelets and the aforementioned QuickSwitch mechanism.

The latest range is the Santos-Dumont, which launched a year later in two-tone options, featuring dials that look similar to early 1900 vintage models.

Despite the many variations of the Cartier Santos and the fact that it’s the oldest design in the brand’s current catalogue, there is still a strong appetite for this aviation watch. It still looks good on the wrist some 100 years later, as does the Tank, making the decision process between the two particularly tricky.

Which Is the Right Model for You?

It goes without saying that the Cartier Tank leans into dress watch territory with its simple, classic and undeniably elegant aesthetics.

Though both share the crisp black Roman numeral hour markers and signature blued hands of the true unadulterated Cartier style, the Santos is bolder and more functional, benefitting from a QuickSwitch strap, as well as superior water resistance. It’s an ideal go-to watch that straddles the line between dress and sports watch.

As well as capturing the brand’s pioneering heritage in aviation watchmaking, the Cartier Santos shows more technical sophistication, exposing elements of its fine watchmaking through skeletonised designs and industrial-inspired elements like the bezel screws, though these features may be too aggressive for some and it’s price too high when compared to entry-level Tanks.

The Tank however, excels in formal environments with its slim profile and elegant proportions. Great for business attire, the unisex designs from this collection are versatile across gender preferences thanks to their timeless design language and their cultural significance across the course of history.

At the end of the day, however, it’s the Cartier Santos that stands out for its practical adaptability. The implementation of its strap-changing features makes customising the watch easy while on the go, eradicating the need to use tools and providing more configurations for those who like to switch up the style of their watch as they go.

Of course, deciding between the two depends on personal preference and requires some level of consideration in what you need in a timepiece and what your watch-wearing habits are.

The Cartier Tank and Santos as Investments

Understanding the investment side to collecting Tank and Santos watches is important. Both stand out for their strong value retention, but as with every model, market demand and price is affected by rarity, materials and condition.

From the Tank collection, models like Louis Cartier Tank watches hold their value well, while the Tank Must designs have provided a more accessible price point for collectors, strengthening the brand’s market position and appealing to a wider audience.

Like many sports watch offerings, the Cartier Santos demonstrates good value retention, especially those that have since become discontinued, like the Santos 100.

Enhancing market appeal further are features designed for comfort and practicality like Cartier’s redesigned case proportions and strap-fitting mechanisms, benefitting from enhanced build quality whilst still preserving the links to it is heritage.

Contrastingly, while the Cartier Tank commands premium prices when in precious metal form, the value of the Santos can be found within its steel sports watch offerings. For a new Cartier Tank quartz, you can expect to pay around $3k and within the region of $20k for a precious metal model.

For the Cartier Santos, prepare to part with around $7k to $40k depending on the complication, or more than original retail price for a vintage or discontinued model on the pre-owned market.

Conclusion

The word “iconic” is thrown around all too often in the world of watch collecting. But if there is one watch that lives up to that terminology, it’s the Cartier Tank. The watch has graced the wrists of many luminaries over the years, from Princes Diana and Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol and Muhammed Ali.

Although the watch has undergone many changes over the years, most have been functional upgrades rather than aesthetical ones. Indeed, the Tank has needed to change very little to keep up with current tastes.

It will remain amongst some of the most timeless designs in history thanks to its enduring shape and endlessly elegant style. Above all, the Tank is one of the most influential and recognisable luxury designs on the planet and is widely appreciated as a unisex design.

Likewise, the Cartier Santos will always have a palace in the heart of aviation fans and pilot watch collectors, and appeals to a more niche segment, resonating with fans of the brand’s aviation roots, not to mention dedicated Cartier watch collectors who generally share an appreciation for the classic and timeless beauty of its unconventional case shape and suite of distinctive features.

The recent boom in vintage watches has no doubt kept the Cartier Tank and Santos watches towards the top of the wish list for many discerning collectors. For those looking for a more modern interpretation of either watch, Cartier’s current line-up offers a little something for everyone.

And while neither the Santos or the Tank are the cheapest of investments, they do retain their value well and promise to make some of the best heirlooms you could opt for on the current market.

Author: Nina S

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