Paul Rothbart, Author at Exquisite Timepieces
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best grand seiko watches

By Paul Rothbart

There are many watch brands that craft timepieces worthy of a collector’s attention. One that I feel is somewhat underrated is Grand Seiko. Originally part of Seiko, Grand Seiko was formed in 1960 with the intention of competing with the best that Switzerland had to offer.

That first watch was more than up to the task, earning the prestigious superior chronometer grade of the Bureaux Officiels de Contrôle de la Marche des Montres.

As time went on, the ambitious Japanese brand innovated and created timepieces that more than held their own with the world’s best. The Spring Drive movement was one of the most ingenious inventions to come from Grand Seiko’s brilliant watchmakers.

In 2017, it split off from parent company Seiko to become an independent brand. At this point, Grand Seiko became available in the U.S. In 2025, the catalog is huge, and Grand Seiko continues to grow in popularity, rivaling all competition. 

If you are looking for a Grand Seiko to add to your collection (and why wouldn’t you be?), this handy list of 15 of the best models out there may prove helpful.

It was a difficult task to choose 15 as all of Grand Seiko’s watches are pretty fabulous, but I have managed. Full disclosure: My personal tastes and opinions impacted the list, but hey, I wouldn’t steer you wrong. 

Choosing the Right Grand Seiko for You

The sheer number of beautiful models in the Grand Seiko catalog can make choosing one seem to be an overwhelming task. If we break it down into a step-by-step method, things become a bit easier. 

Type

The first step is to decide what type of watch you are looking for. Grand Seiko makes some incredible dress watches, divers, GMTs, and chronographs. Are you planning to wear your new watch  when in your best clothes? This would indicate a nice dress model.

If you are looking for an everyday wearer with both casual and dressier outfits, a tool watch would be suitable. A diver is an excellent choice, especially if you plan to swim or maybe dive while wearing it.

Chronographs are fun timepieces with a built-in stopwatch. This gives off a racing vibe with a big cool factor.

GMTs can track multiple time zones and are great for travelers and people whose work includes contact with others in different parts of the nation and the world. Once you’ve decided on type, we move on to size.

Size

The size of the watch you choose is partially connected to the type. Dress watches tend to have smaller, thinner cases, with tool watches being larger.

Watch sizes are not the same as clothing sizes in terms of a specific fit. Your personal preference plays a role but there are some guidelines to help you choose a timepiece that will look good on your wrist.

Your wrist size obviously must be taken into account. I have an average-sized wrist for men at 7.25 inches, and I prefer cases in the 40-42 mm range.

This size looks good, but I also have slightly smaller and larger watches. The shape of your wrist makes a difference as well. If the top side is flatter, you can get away with a bigger case.

What you want to avoid is having the lugs overhang the sides of your wrist. This is not a great look and can make you look like a child dressing up in mommy or daddy’s watch.

If you have a smaller wrist, you may want to look for something in the 36-38 mm range. For those with big beefy wrists, you will likely be seeking something larger than 42 mm.

Your preference is very important. If you can get to a Grand Seiko AD such as Exquisite Timepieces, you can try on several watches to find the size that suits your wrist size and taste best.

Bracelet/Strap

You’ve got to have a way to hold your watch on your wrist. The two basic options are a bracelet or a strap. Either can do the job nicely as well as add to the aesthetic of the watch.

Bracelets are made of metal, generally stainless steel, gold, or titanium, while straps are leather, crocodile, rubber, or silicone. Each has its look and purpose.

For a dress watch, either a bracelet or a strap will work, although a quality strap is considered dressier. A nice bracelet in a precious metal is a great option for your finest outfits.

Tool watches are usually on bracelets made of stainless steel, titanium, or on a strap. If you choose a diver, you’re not going to do leather. Getting it wet will ruin it. Dive watches are on stainless or titanium bracelets, or rubber or silicone straps. 

Consider how you plan to wear your watch as well as what pleases your aesthetic when making this choice.

Complications

Anything on a watch that does something other than tell the time is a complication. The most common of these is the date. It’s a very handy thing to have on your watch.

Think of how many times you wonder what the date is and pull out your phone. Having it on your watch makes it much easier. Some watches also display the day of the week, which can also be helpful.

GMT watches have an extra hand and rotating bezel for tracking extra time zones, and divers have a unidirectional rotating bezel for timing dives or anything else you may want to track. Chronographs have subdials for the minutes and seconds of the stopwatch complication and often a 24-hour dial. 

Other complications include moon phases, tourbillons, and reserve indicators. Each serves a purpose as well as adding character to your watch. This is all down to personal preference, and again, after deciding what you need, try some on and see what you like best.

Color/Texture

Last but not least, we have the color of the dial, and especially with Grand Seiko, the texture. Dress watches usually are best in conservative neutral colors, such as black, white, ivory, or dark blue. There are also fun colors like green, red, pink, or burgundy.

Tool watches can work with pretty much any color. Decide how you want to wear your watch, along with the typical color palette of your clothing. I am a big fan of blue watches. They go with everything I usually wear. If you are adding to your collection, Grand Seiko has some gorgeous greens and pinks are well.

Now to texture. A flat dial in a good color can look nice, but a textured dial really pops. Nobody, and I mean nobody, does dial textures like Grand Seiko. The Japanese revere nature, and this is reflected in the work of this luxury brand.

There are dials that have the texture of gentle waves lapping on a lake, ice crystals on frozen water, and the delicate leaves of cherry blossoms at various times of the year.

Do your due diligence and take a good look at the incredible textures Grand Seiko offers. They are truly works of art, and this may well be your toughest decision. Now, let’s look at some specific modes. 

Grand Seiko SLGA021 Lake Suwa

Grand Seiko SLGA021 Lake Suwa

This is an absolutely stunning timepiece and one of my favorite Grand Seiko models. The name refers to Lake Suwa, a pretty body of water not far from the brand’s HQ.

Typical of Grand Seiko, the dial jumps out. It’s a gorgeous deep blue with a texture that accurately depicts the waves and ripples that flow across the namesake lake. 

The case is 40 mm in diameter, a nice size for an average or larger wrist, and 11.8 mm thick, making it a good choice to wear with dress shirts or suits. The case and bracelet are titanium, which is strong and very light, adding to the comfort.

The dial and exhibition caseback are covered by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and the silver hands and indices make the time easy to read.

The Spring Drive Caliber 9RA2 movement is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per month and has a very generous 120-hour power reserve. With a 100-meter water resistance, you won’t have to worry about getting caught in the rain.

Not recommended for snorkeling or diving. This beauty retails for $10,500. Also available is SLGA019, with a medium blue dial selling for $9,300.

Grand Seiko SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba

Grand Seiko SBGH343 Sakura-Wakaba

The Japanese reverence for nature is reflected in the celebrations of the sakura, or cherry blossom trees. Festivals are dedicated to the blooming of the trees each spring. Grand Seiko has its own tributes to the cherry blossoms in watch dials.

The Sakura-Wakaba has a stunning light green dial that looks like the fresh green sakura leaves under a coating of snow. The delicate texture looks like watercolors on fine linen. It’s a nice color to have in your collection and makes a beautiful backdrop for the silver baton indices and hands. 

The 38 mm high-intensity titanium case is a nice size for dress or casual outfits, and it has a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance, so you don’t have to sweat getting caught in the rain.

A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects your work of art, and the Zaratsu polishing on the case and bracelet really make it pop. 

The Hi-Beat Caliber 9S85 movement is accurate to +5 – -3 seconds per day and has a 55-hour power reserve. At $7,700 retail, it costs significantly less than many watches that are not nearly as beautiful. 

Grand Seiko SBGH341 Sakura-Kakushi

Grand Seiko SBGH341 Sakura-Kakushi

If you like the Sakura-Wakaba but want a dial a bit different colorwise, check out its sibling, the Sakura-Wakaba. The specs are identical, but the dial color and texture reflect the sakura leaves later in spring when they have bloomed a soft pink.

Pink is not for everyone, and it seems that every microbrand out there has a hot pink dial. However, Grand Seiko has created a subtle shade of pink with the same watercolor-on-linen texture of the Wakaba.

This color is a nice contrast to outfits of navy or medium blue, or black, and will work with bolder colors like reds or yellows. The retail price is the same at $7,700.

For a bit less than the cost of a single hi-end brand, you could own both of these Sakura gems. If you have to choose one, this model has many a happy owner.

Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari”

Grand Seiko SBGY007 "Omiwatari"

Nearby Lake Suwa is the inspiration for several Grand Seiko dials. When the lake freezes each winter, there is usually a ridge of ice across its width. The Japanese call the ridge the “omiwatari,” and it is believed to be caused by ice gods trekking across the surface.

The dial of the SBGY007 is a stunning tribute to the tradition. It’s a very soft blue, but has the ridgelike texture and subtle sparkle of the ridges on the lake. It makes for an easy-to-read, easy experience sitting behind the brushed and polished silver baton indices and hands.

A dressy watch, it has a stainless steel 38.5 mm case with Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces. A dual curved, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating covers the dial and exhibition caseback. 30 meters of water resistance is perfectly adequate for a dress watch.

The beautiful black crocodile leather strap is elegantly paired with the case. This timepiece is powered by Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Caliber 9R31 movement.

The dual-barrel structure gives it a very generous power reserve of 72 hours, and thanks to the caseback, you can see this technological marvel whenever you want. At $8,400 retail, the price is far lower than many other luxury brands, and your jealous friends may think you broke the bank on this one.

Grand Seiko SBGJ249 GMT Four Seasons “Summer Shōsho” 

Grand Seiko SBGJ249 GMT Four Seasons "Summer Shōsho"

This is a GMT, one of my particular favorites. Engineered with Grand Seiko’s typical innovation and high standards, the dial is nothing short of spectacular. In Japan, each of the four seasons has six distinct phases, or “sekki”.

The Four Seasons Summer Shosho celebrates the end of the rainy season and the start of mid-summer with its blue-textured dial that resembles the windblown ripples on the water. Like all Grand Seiko dials, it’s a work of art.

The Zaratsu polished and brushed indices and hands look great against this backdrop, and the deep blue GMT hand blends in beautifully while being easy to read. A 24-hour sits around the inner surface of the dial, and there is a date complication at 3 o’clock.

The 39 mm stainless steel case will suit a wide range of wrists and has a lion emblem on the caseback. The 30-meter water resistance is enough to protect it from splashes, but it is not meant for swimming. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects this stunning dial.

The bracelet is also stainless steel with brushed and polished surfaces that complement the case. The Caliber 98S6 GMT movement powers this gorgeous timepiece.

It has a nice power reserve of 55 hours and is accurate to +5 – -3 seconds per day. If you’re looking for a GMT, this is the one I would buy, especially given its $7,300 price tag. 

Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch Shirakaba

Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch Shirakaba

For a more subtle, yet still beautiful timepiece, I love the SLGH005. In another tribute to nature, the dial of this watch has the colors and textures of the bark of a white birch tree.

Sitting in a brushed and Zaratsu-polished stainless steel case with a silver handset and baton indices, also brushed and polished, the look is tied together for one of neutral elegance that you can wear with any outfit.

The blue needle second hand adds just the right pop of color. The 40mm size suits an average wrist nicely, and with a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance, you won’t have to worry about getting caught in the rain. 

This beauty is powered by the Caliber 9SA5 hi-beat automatic movement. It’s accurate to +5/-3 seconds per day and has a very generous power reserve of 5 days. It includes a date complication at 3 o’clock, and thanks to the exhibition case back, you can see the movement looks as good as it functions. 

The three-link stainless steel bracelet features brushed and polished surfaces and is a nice match to the case. The three-fold clasp holds it securely to your wrist. At a retail price of $9,300, the White Birch Shirakaba gives you plenty of value for your money. 

Grand Seiko SBGC275 Sport Hotaka Lion’s Mane

Grand Seiko SBGC275 Sport Hotaka Lion's Mane

If you’re looking for something unusual and fun, the SBGC275 Sport Hotaka Lion’s Mane may fit the bill. A limited edition of just 700 pieces, this Grand Seiko model is a collector’s dream. The red, beautifully textured dial represents the sun rising over Mount Hotaka.

The silver handset and baton indices are tapered at the ends to simulate a lion’s claws. The chronograph subdials for seconds, minutes, hours, and power reserve indicator have a sunburst finish, making for a more dynamic look.

A black 24-hour GMT bezel with silver numbers complements the dial nicely. Grand Seiko developed a technique called Optical Multilayer Coating that allows the dial to change shades of red in different light. 

The case is brushed and polished high-intensity titanium and has a large 44.5 mm diameter. This is a watch that truly stands out on the wrist. The crown is a screw down and the water resistance is 200 meters, so you can take it for a swim.

A sapphire crystal covers the dial and the exhibition case back. The hands and indices have a green Lumibrite, and the GMT hand and bezel number are lumed in blue for easy reading in low-light situations. 

The Spring Drive Caliber 9R96 movement is an incredible piece of Grand Seiko engineering. With both chronograph and GMT functions, this is an incredibly useful timepiece. It is accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day and has a 72-hour power reserve.

Looking at the movement through the exhibition case back, one can view the Grand Seiko lion logo in stunning 18K gold.

The bracelet is high-intensity titanium to match the case and is a brushed and polished three-link design. The three-fold clasp with a secure lock and push-button extender allows micro adjustments and keeps the watch secure on your wrist.

You would expect a timepiece this special to carry a hefty price tag. However, at $13,400 retail, it is quite a bargain.

Grand Seiko SBGA231 Spring Drive Diver Black Dial

Grand Seiko SBGA231 Spring Drive Diver Black Dial

I’m a big fan of dive watches, and Grand Seiko makes some good ones. The SBGA231 is an excellent diver with some bold and unique features. The dial is a beautiful flat black with dark grey hour and minute hands, and a black needle second hand.

Baton indices sit at 6 and 9 o’clock, a large inverted triangle at 12, and dots at the other positions. The hands and markers are luminous for easy viewing at night or underwater. There is a power reserve indicator and a date complication at 3 o’clock.

The 44.2 mm case is large and stands out. It is, however, lightweight, thanks to the high-intensity titanium. The unidirectional rotating bezel is also titanium and hard-coated in black.

The sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating. The screw-down crown and strong case give it 200 meters of water resistance, so it can accompany you on your aquatic adventures.

The Spring Drive Caliber 9R65 movement is accurate to +/- 1 second per day and has a 72-hour power reserve. The three-link bracelet is also high-intensity titanium to match the case, and the clasp is made from the same material. The retail price of $7,100 makes it a steal for a dive watch of this quality. 

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203

Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203

Tool watches are as useful as they are aesthetically pleasing. Another Grand Seiko Chronograph GMT is the SBCG203. The black dial features easy-to-read markings and subdials that make it a timepiece worth owning. 

The silver delta hands and baton indices nicely contrast the dial, and the red arrow GMT hand stands out and adds a bit of color. The date complication at 3 o’clock has a white numeral on a black background that blends in with the color scheme.

The chronograph second, minute, and hour subdials are joined by a power reserve indicator. A minute track sits just inside the bezel with 24-hour markings just beneath it. 

The stainless steel case is 43.5 mm, which is on the large size, but typical of a multifunction watch. The sapphire crystal is dual-curved and high definition with an anti-reflective coating for easy reading.

The crown and chronograph buttons are screw down and give the case a 100 meter water resistance. A sapphire crystal also covers the exhibition case back.

Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive Caliber 9R86 movement powers this watch with an accuracy of +/- 1 second per day and a 72-hour power reserve.

The three-link stainless steel bracelet has a three-fold clasp with a push-button release and pairs well with the case. With a retail price of just $8,200, you get features that would cost north of $10,000 for many other brands. 

Grand Seiko SBGY035 Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition

Grand Seiko SBGY035 Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition

If you’re looking for an elegant dress watch with a bit of boldness, the SBGY035 may be right up your alley. A limited edition, this beautiful timepiece commemorates the release of the Caliber 9R, Grand Seiko’s first Spring Drive movement in 2004.

The dial is another tribute to sunrise over Hotaka Mountain. It’s deep red on the edge, gradually getting lighter toward the center. It is bolder than a standard color but still subtle enough to wear with dress clothes.

The indices and hands are silver and stand out nicely against the dial, and the dark orange second hand adds just a bit more color. 

The case is stainless steel and at 38.5 mm with a thickness of just 10.2 mm, it’s a perfect dress watch size. It has a sapphire crystal over the dial and exhibition case back. Water resistance is a typical dress watch, 30 meters, but you’re not going to be doing any swimming in it.

The Spring Drive Caliber 9R31 movement has a 72-hour power reserve and is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month.

The brown leather faux crocodile strap has a three-fold clasp with a push-button release and finishes off the very elegant design. You might expect a dress watch of this quality to be costly, but the $8,500 price tag is quite reasonable. 

Grand Seiko SBGM253 GMT Limited Edition

Grand Seiko SBGM253 GMT Limited Edition

A classy GMT that is a Grand Seiko tribute to nature is a welcome addition to any collection. The Limited Edition SBGM253 is just what the doctor ordered. The incredible light blue sunray dial is a tribute to the view of the sky from the top of Mount Iwate.

The two-tone light and dark silver baton indices and delta hands are the perfect complement to the sky blue dial, and the darker blue GMT hand fits right in. 24-hour markings in the same darker blue sit just inside the indices, making the GMT hand easy to read and keeping the aesthetic subtle. 

The 39.5 mm case is stainless steel and just 13.7 mm thick, making it a great dress watch. The water resistance is 30 meters, which is suitable for this type of timepiece. It has an exhibition case back which is covered by a sapphire crystal, as is the dial. 

The automatic Caliber 9S66 movement has a date complication at 3 o’clock, a 72-hour power reserve, and an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day. The three-link bracelet is stainless steel to match the case and has a three-fold clasp. The $5,600 retail price is especially appealing. 

Grand Seiko SBGW301

Grand Seiko SBGW301

A classy, no-frills dress watch that will go with any outfit is a good thing to have in your collection. It’s also nice if you can get it for less than $5,000. The SBGW301 is that watch.

The dial is a pretty ivory color. Neutral, but with more warmth than white. Silver baton indices and hands blend in nicely and are easy to read. 

The stainless steel case is 37.3 mm and 11.7 mm thick. It will easily fit under a dress shirt cuff and sit unobtrusively on your wrist. A sapphire crystal sits over the dial and the exhibition case back. The water resistance is standard for a dress watch at 30 meters.

The Caliber 9S64 movement is manual, but with a 72-hour power reserve, you will only have to wind it every 3 days. It’s accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day and does its job quite well.

The black crocodile leather strap is simple and elegant, and with its pin buckle, holds your watch securely on your wrist while adding to its good looks. The retail price is just $4,900. You almost have to buy one. 

Grand Seiko SBGW285

Grand Seiko SBGW285

Another simple, dress watch with a price tag under $5,000, but with a bit more color, is the Grand Seiko SBGW285. It has the same basic dial with silver baton indices and hands as the 301, but the dial is a dark, emerald green with a texture that simulates leaves at the end of summer.

The stainless steel case is 37.3 mm in diameter and 11.7 mm thick; ideal dress watch proportions. A box-shaped anti-reflective sapphire crystal covers the dial and exhibition case back. This timepiece is merely splash resistant to give you protection in the rain, but no more than that.

The manual Calibe 9S64 movement is accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day, and with a 72-hour power reserve, you only have to wind it a couple of times per week.

The crocodile leather strap with a pin buckle is the same deep green as the dial and brings the whole package together. At just $4,900 retail, this is a steal.

Grand Seiko SLGA023 Ushio

Grand Seiko SLGA023 Ushio

As I mentioned earlier, I love dive watches, and the SLGA023 Ushio is one of the nicest I’ve ever seen. Dive watch dials that evoke the texture of water are especially pleasing. I love my blue Omega Seamaster with the engraved wave pattern, but it does not measure up to the Ushio.

The deep blue dial has an incredible texture that looks amazingly like ripples and waves on the surface of the ocean. A silver arrow minute hand and sword second hand are covered with Lumbrite for easy viewing in suboptimal conditions.

Baton indices at 6 and 9 o’clock with a double baton at 12, and dots at the other positions are also lumed. The second hand has a large lumed dot at the end to make it stand out and a date complication at 3 o’clock with a power reserve indicator on the other side, completing the picture.

The lightweight but strong high-intensity titanium case is 43.8 mm in diameter. This is a good size for a diver. It has a screw down crown and a solid water resistance of 200 meters in case you do want to swim in it, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. 

The Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5 movement is accurate to +/- 0.5 seconds per day and has a very large power reserve of 120 hours. The three-link bracelet is made from the same high-intensity titanium as the case, for a light but rugged timepiece.

The three-fold clasp has a secure, locking push-button release, and the slide adjuster lets you get a perfect fit. The $12,000 retail price is significantly lower than high-end dive watches of other leading brands. 

Grand Seiko SLGH007

Grand Seiko SLGH007

If you have a large budget for your next purchase and want a classy, unique, and collectible timepiece, check out the SLGH007. This incredible watch is a tribute to Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori. It’s a limited edition release with one of Grand Seiko’s most beautiful dials.

It’s basic black with a texture that resembles the rings inside the trunk of a cedar tree. Double baton silver indices, with a triple at the top, and silver delta hands pop against the dark background. The 3 o’clock date complication is a white numeral on a black background and blends in. 

The case is a stunning platinum in a nice 40 mm diameter. The 11.7 mm thickness makes it a good dress watch, and a sapphire crystal covers the dial and exhibition case back. The automatic Hi Beat Caliber 9SA5 movement is accurate to -3 to +5 seconds per day and has a generous 80-hour power reserve.

The black crocodile leather strap with a three-fold clasp and push-button release adds to the reserved elegance. The $59,000 retail price is high, but you get so much value for the money. If you are going to splurge, consider the SLGH007.

Conclusion

There are many luxury watch brands from which to choose. They are all worthy contenders in their own way, but Grand Seiko takes a back seat to none of them. Their timepieces are innovative, accurate, reliable, durable, and absolutely beautiful. Most sell for less than $10,000.

If you are looking for a Grand Seiko, the number of watches in their catalog can be overwhelming. Take a look at these 15 as a starting point. Grand Seiko has a watch for every horological connoisseur, and your dream timepiece may just be on this list. 

rolex jubilee vs oyster

Rolex is the grail watch brand for millions, and choosing the timepiece that best suits one’s taste involves many decisions. Dress watch or tool watch. Complications and functions. Dial and bezel colors. Naturally, price is a primary consideration. You get the idea. 

There is also the choice of strap or bracelet. This part of a watch can’t be overlooked. It may seem simple. After all, the function of the strap or bracelet is to hold your watch securely on your wrist. There is more to it than that, though. Comfort, ease of clasping and unclasping, durability, and aesthetics all play a role. 

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If you have decided to go the bracelet route, you also want one that pairs well with the model you choose. There is a different aesthetic between dress and sport watches, and each is worn in different situations. Some watches are daily wearers and others are for special occasions only.  This is something else to consider when choosing the right bracelet for your watch and your taste.

The two most popular bracelet styles offered by Rolex are the Oyster and the Jubilee. Which one should you choose? Let’s take a closer look at these two fine options to help you make that decision. 

The Rolex Oyster Bracelet

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Bracelet

In Rolex’s earliest days, watches came on leather straps as standard. By the early 1930s, bracelets were offered as an option and sometimes added 50% to the cost of the timepiece. You had to be willing to pony up a hefty price for a watch on a bracelet.

The first Oyster bracelets were created by Gay Frères, the legendary designer that also made bracelets for other luxury brands such as Audemars Piguet and Zenith. The first iteration of the three-link bracelet that would become the Oyster appeared in the late ’30s.

The popular bracelet continued to evolve and was patented by Rolex in 1948. The Oyster went through iterations with side rivets, stretchable links, and several different clasps. It became a standard feature on many models and proved to be popular with the brand’s legion of fans.

A testament to its enduring appeal is that the modern Oyster is a robust and beautiful bracelet as well as one of the best-selling bracelets for Rolex even today. Chances are, if you spot a Rolex out in the wild, it will be attached to an Oyster bracelet.

The Oyster has a sporty and classy look. Its flat, broad links sit comfortably around the wrist. It is available in stainless steel and precious metals, depending on the model of the watch it is attached to. It looks especially good on the tool watches, such as the Submariner, Cosmograph Daytona, and GMT Master II.

Current Oyster bracelets are paired with end links that match the shape of the case they are attached to. The Oysterlock clasp is a secure closure, and the Oystersteel Rolex uses has a higher chromium content than other stainless steel.

This makes it more corrosion-resistant and well-suited to dive watches. Current Oyster bracelets also feature the Glidelock system. This allows quick adjustments on the bracelet of up to 2 mm, helping to create a perfect fit.

Some of Rolex’s bolder models, such as the Batman, Pepsi, and Sprite, have polished center links combined with brushed outer links on their Oyster bracelets.

This helps them pop and coordinates nicely with the bold dial and bezel color combinations. The generally sporty look of the Oyster makes it an excellent choice for an everyday watch.

In terms of robustness, the Oyster is solidly crafted, and its wide links enable it to stand up to the rigors of daily wear in all kinds of situations. This is a major factoring in its continuing popularity.

The brushed surfaces do a great job of hiding scratches and are the reason tool models like the Submariner come with an Oyster that has all the links brushed. The 20 mm lug width is the most common size and will suit most wrists. 

The Rolex Jubilee Bracelet

The Rolex Jubilee bracelet is the brand’s elegant and sophisticated option. As such, since 2018, it is not offered on stainless steel sport models. The Jubilee is designed to pair with the classiest dress watches, such as the Day-Date and Datejust.

The bracelet was created in 1945 to commemorate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, hence the name Jubilee. Originally made only in gold and offered only on the Datejust, the Jubilee is now available in stainless steel as well as other precious metals.

Two-tone Jubilees with gold center links and stainless steel end links look great with a two-tone case.  In addition to Rolex’s dress watches, the Jubilee is also an option on the GMT Master II watches.

The distinctive look of the jubilee comes from its five-link design. The two outer links are wider than the three inner links. This creates an “x” pattern in the center of the bracelet that elevates the style. With its smaller links, the Jubilee has greater flexibility, and most Rolex fans find it more comfortable than the Oyster. 

The small center links catch the light beautifully and add a nice flash of bling, further highlighting the elegant look of the watches with a Jubilee bracelet.

One downside is that, although it is a very well-made bracelet and is built to last, the links, especially on the softer gold ones, are more prone to scratches and blemishes of any kind are easily visible.

The Jubilee requires more care than the Oyster and, thus, is not recommended for an everyday timepiece. Save it for special occasions when you need to look your best.

Rolex recommends not wearing a Jubilee bracelet loosely. This causes more movement in the links and creates added wear. You will be shortening the life of the bracelet. If you bring a damaged Jubilee to an AD, they won’t repair it. Rolex will replace the entire bracelet, and this is costly. Store your Rolex on a Jubilee in its box and not in a jewelry box with other items. 

Rolex Oyster vs Jubilee – How to Choose

Now that you know quite a bit about each bracelet, let’s talk about how to choose the right one for you. First up is cost. Generally, if you buy your Rolex from an AD, a Jubilee will add about $200 to the price. Grey market price differences can be as much as $2,000. Your budget will have to be considered when making the decision.

If you are looking for a stainless steel sport watch like a diver or chronograph, you don’t have an option. You will get it with the Oyster bracelet.

This is what you want for a watch that may see some rugged wear. A GMT Master II is available with either bracelet. If that is the watch you seek, consider how often you will wear it and in what kinds of situations. If it’s going to be your travel companion, lean toward the Oyster. You will need the added robustness. 

Let’s move on to dress watches. The Jubilee certainly adds elegance, class, and bling. If this is going to be your “dress-to-impress” watch, worn to important business meetings, weddings, and other special events, the Jubilee is likely the one you want. It will spend a lot of time in the box where it is protected and be an incredible accessory for your best outfits.

If you are the type who rarely wears a suit or has occasion to dress up, go with the Oyster. It is a great-looking bracelet and looks good on even the dressier Rolexes. It will hold up better, especially if you wear your Rolex to work daily and on nights out.

Scratches are going to happen to everyday timepieces, and the Oyster does a much better job of hiding them. In terms of comfort, yes, the Jubilee feels better to most watch enthusiasts, but it’s not a huge difference, and the Oyster does sit nicely on the wrist. 

I’m not a Rolex guy, but if I were, given my love of dive watches and how often I wear them, I would go with the Oyster.  That’s just me. Your choice will depend on your needs and tastes. Now that you’ve got the lowdown on the Oyster and Jubilee, you are prepared to choose wisely. Go for it. 

Conclusion

The Rolex catalog is filled with reliable, accurate, and beautiful watches of every type. In addition to colors, movements, and complications, you have strap and bracelet choices.

The Oyster and Jubilee are the two most popular. Each is made to Rolex’s high standards and will compliment your timepiece nicely. Consider the details of each, try a few on, and then make an informed choice for a Rolex that you will love wearing.

Tissot vs Movado: Which Swiss Brand is Superior?

Paul Rothbart

April 21, 2025

Although there are other nations that make great watches, Switzerland has long held the title of the land of fine horology. Brands such as Patek Phillipe, Rolex, and Omega are legendary. However, there are lesser-known and lower-priced brands that are well worth checking out, especially for beginning watch collectors. 

Two of these brands are Tissot and Movado. Each has a long and distinguished history and produces timepieces that are accurate, reliable, and beautiful. If you are looking for your first luxury watch, or maybe something nice to add to your collection, these brands should be considered. Let’s take a closer look at Tissot vs Movado.

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Brand Heritage

Both Tissot and Movado were founded in the 19th Century and thus have more than 100 years of experience in crafting their signature styles. Each brand has traveled its own path, but both are worthy of consideration. 

Tissot

Tissot PRX 40

In 1853, Charles-Felicien Tissot founded the company along with his son, Charles-Emile Tissot. It should be noted that the brand is not at all connected to Mathey-Tissot. Apparently, in Switzerland, the name, “Tissot” is like “Smith” in the U.S.

The father and son team began making pocket watches in their home in Le Locle, including the world’s first mass-produced pocket watch and the first that tracked two time zones. Tissot’s timepieces sold very well in the Russian Empire and amongst members of the Tsar’s courts, prompting the younger Tissot to move to Moscow in 1885. 

The brand saw continued success as it began crafting wristwatches. When the worldwide economy collapsed in 1929, Tissot formed a partnership with Omega to ensure its survival. The brand thrived and became the official timekeeper for Swiss ski races in 1938 and in 1957 for the Davis Cup. In 1930, Tissot became one of the first brands to make anti-magnetic watches. 

Tissot was an innovator in the use of other materials as well, creating the first plastic watch in 1971, the first mother of pearl in 1987, and the first wood watch the following year. Today, Tissot is part of the Swatch Group, a parent company that includes Omega, Breguet, Hamilton, Longines, Blancpain, and Tissot, among many other brands. Tissot is one of the Swatch Group’s mid-range market brands. 

Movado

Movado 1881 Automatic History

A member of a Jewish watchmaking family, Achille Ditesheim founded the company that would become Movado in 1881 La-Chaux-de-Fonds, the heart of the Swiss watchmaking industry. Ditesheim partnered with his brothers, Leopold and Issidore, and called the company, L.A. & I. Ditesheim. They built one of the first modern factories in the area and over the next 20 years, the company grew to employ 80 workers.

By 1905, Ditesheim’s business had 150 employees and changed its name to Movado, which is Esperanto for “always in motion”.

Over the next several decades Movado created innovative watches such as the Polyplan, which featured a curved case to match the contours of the wrist, the Soldier’s Watch with a pierced metal cover for protecting the crystal in battle, and the Acevatic, the brand’s first water-resistant case with a screw-down crown.

In 1945, Movado released the minimalist Museum dial, which would become an iconic symbol that instantly identifies a timepiece as a Movado. Working together with Zenith, the brand introduced the El Primero, the world’s first automatic chronograph movement.

This innovation had a huge impact on horology and even Rolex used the movement in their Daytonas and used it as the basis for creating their own chronograph movement. 

The North American Watch Company purchased Movado in 1983. Although the brand’s corporate HQ is in the U.S., the timepieces are still manufactured in Switzerland and live up to that nation’s high standard of quality.

Movado continues to make reliable, accurate, and distinctive timepieces at a lower price point than many other luxury brands. The Heritage Collection offers classic designs. Along with the modern models, Movado offers a wide variety of stylish watches. 

Model Variety

Both Tissot and Movado have several collections that feature a nice variety of timepieces from dress watches, to casual, and sport watches like divers and chronographs.

Tissot

Tissot offers a large number of watches on leather straps and stainless steel bracelets. Cases and bracelets are available in gold-colored stainless steel as well as plain stainless. There are also two-toned stainless and gold-colored bracelets. 

Dials are available in many colors including black, white, blue, Tiffany blue, gold, green, and ivory. Both quartz and automatic movements are offered in classic dress styles, sport watches, and more casual timepieces.

Among the most popular models are the Powermatic 80, PRX, PR100, and Gentlemen’s watches. Tool watches include the Supersport Chrono series of chronographs and the Seastar Dive watches. The Seastars have a generous water resistance of 300 meters, putting them on a par with much more expensive dive watches.

Tissot also has several higher-end models in its Le Locle collection that use 18K gold and rose gold in the cases and bracelets. These have higher prices but are still below $2,000. Tissot has models for both men and women and many have a date complication.

Movado

Movado is best known for its iconic Museum Classic, so named because the original Museum dial, released in 1947, was put on display at New York’s Museum of Modern Art as a permanent exhibit in 1960. It was the first watch dial to be so honored.

Designed to mimic a sundial, the Museum Classic is a plain black dial with a single precious stone set at 12 o’clock to represent the sun. It’s a bold design that stands out. It’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but the Museum Collection is perhaps the most popular of Movado’s offerings. 

The Museum Sport Collection uses the classic Museum template to create a series of chronographs. The dot at 12 combines with a variety of dial colors, bezels, straps, and bracelets to create a collection of unique and inspired chronographs.

The Movado Bold Collection also shows artistic flair. These models have a dot at 12 o’clock but some have indices like a standard timepiece.

There are dressy models on leather straps and metal bracelets as well as casual models with black-colored stainless steel cases and bracelets. The bold collection includes chronographs and a wide variety of dial colors and textures. 

The Movado Face Collection features the trademark minimalist dial in bold, playful colors for a variety of fun casual watches. Leather straps, stainless steel, and mesh bracelets offer a variety of options to suit fashion-forward horology fans. The Face watches are truly unique timepieces that can make a statement about their wearer.

No watch brand can be a player in the industry without divers and Movado offers those. The SE Diver Automatic comes with a blue or black dial and unidirectional rotating bezel, the signature dot at 12, and a stainless steel case and bracelet.

These timepieces have a respectable 200 meters of water resistance with a screw-down crown and date complication.

Design

Design philosophies differ greatly between the two brands and there is zero chance you would ever confuse a Tissot for a Movado or vice versa. 

Tissot

Tissot timepieces are designed in line with classic watch styles in mind. This is not surprising, given the brand’s longtime connection with Omega. Sword hands, three and five-link bracelets, and stitched leather straps are typical on most models as are dot and baton indices and Roman numerals. 

Tissot does offer a variety of standard dial colors and textures such as the check pattern on the Powermatic series. There are models that are a bit bold and feature square cases and skeleton dials, but for the most part, Tissot sticks with a more conservative design.

Movado

Movado’s design philosophy is unique in the world of horology and has been linked for decades with the style of modern art. The Museum dial is at the forefront of this design and influences pretty much every model in the catalog.

Movado watches run the gamut from classy to wildly playful. They’re not for everyone but their fans are loyal to the brand and they have several celebrity ambassadors. Movado lives up to its name as it is always moving forward.

Build Quality & Materials

Beng brands on the more affordable side, the materials used and finishing of Tissot and Movado timepieces are not on the level of high luxury brands. Nevertheless, both companies use quality materials and are built by experienced watchmakers emphasizing reliability and durability. 

Tissot

Most Tissot models have stainless steel cases and the brand uses industry-standard 316L stainless on its cases and bracelets. Scratch-resistant sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating cover dials and exhibition case backs.

Some models in the higher-end Le Locle collection use 18K yellow or rose gold. There are the Gentlemen models that use lighter weight and durable titanium.

Tissot uses the combination of brushed and polished surfaces prevalent in the industry on its cases, indices, and hands. It’s a nice finish but again, not on the level of a luxury watch. Hold a Tissot side-by-side with an Omega and the difference is obvious. Some models are coated in a gold or black color.

Many models use Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands for excellent visibility in darkness. Straps are not the highest quality leather, but genuine leather which is a fairly durable and attractive option. 

Movado

Movado too, is not on the level of luxury brands but does use similar quality materials in its timepieces. Stainless steel cases, bracelets, and hands are made with the same 316L that Tissot uses and some models have 18K gold cases.

Unlike Tissot, Movado uses some less common materials in some of its watches, particularly those in the Face Collection.

Acrylic is used in cases and on the hands of these models for a casual and modish look. Personally, I think they look cheap, kind of like a Swatch, but to each their own.

Some of the Museum Classic watches have cases covered in gold PVD. They have a blingy look without being too expensive. Like Tissot, Movado uses scratch-resistant sapphire coated with an anti-reflective and Super-LumiNova.

Some of the higher-end models use semi-precious stones for the dot at 12 o’clock. Bracelets are stainless steel and straps use genuine leather, ceramic, or silicone. Stainless steel surfaces are brushed and polished like Tissot and do like nice.

They are certainly not anywhere near the Zaratsu polishing of Grand Seiko, but the price point is significantly lower.

Face models are just brushed and most are coated in a color coordinated to the dial and strap. They certainly make a statement but don’t scream luxury.

Movements

Tissot and Movado differ significantly in their movements. Although Tissot uses generic Swiss movements in some models, it also builds some very good in-house movements some of which are COSC-certified.

Movado stopped making in-house movements in 1970 and all models use very good generic Swiss movements. Both brands offer automatic and quartz-powered watches.

Tissot

Tiisot’s best in-house movements are its 11 ½” automatics that are COSC certified and have a solid power reserve of 38 hours. It offers lower-priced watches powered by in-house automatic movements that are not COSC-certified, but still accurate and with 30-hour power reserves. 

At lower price points, Tissot has ETA quartz and automatic movements. All are Swiss-made and solidly built for accuracy and durability. For those who like to take a look at the works of their timepieces, Tissot has models with exhibition case backs. The movements are nicely designed and pretty to look at.

Movado

As stated earlier, Movado no longer makes in-house movements. However, their automatics use the ETA-2824-2 Swiss movement, which is well-made and used by many companies. The quartz Movado timepieces are powered by Citizen Miyota movements, which are solid as well. 

By using generic movements, Movado can keep its prices down. Although these are fine movements and reliable, you aren’t getting anything special that you can’t find in many other brands. There are Movado models with exhibition case backs. The movements look well-made but not especially aesthetically pleasing. 

Price Point

Both Tissot and Movado are in the “accessible luxury” category, meaning that they make quality watches that are affordable for most people looking for a nice timepiece. A great thing is that most chain jewelry and department stores carry both brands. You can take a trip to your local mall and try on models from both to see which you prefer.

Tissot

Tissot offers a wide variety of watches that are priced below $500. Their higher-end automatics range from $500-$1,000. Even their top-of-the-line Le Locle models made with precious metals sell below $2,000, topping out at $1,800. 

When you consider that Tissot uses quality materials and builds in-house movements, some of which are COSC-certified, you realize the brand offers a lot of value for the money.

Movado

Movado fits into the same affordable luxury category and has a similar range of prices as Tissot. The watches of the Face Collection sell for less than $500, but frankly, look like inexpensive watches.

Most of the other collections range in price from $500-$1,000 but in the Heritage and Museum Classic Collections, there are several models that run significantly higher, above $2,000. Some of the Alta Series come in at just under $4,000.

Movado does make stylish, quality timepieces, but considering it doesn’t offer in-house or COSC-certified movements, I can’t say the value for the money is equal to Tissot. Honestly, Movado appeals to a niche section of horology lovers who like a style that is atypical of most brands.

Conclusion

A good watch does not have to be prohibitively expensive. Tissot and Movado are two Swiss brands that prove this. Although not on the list of high-luxury watches, these timepieces are available in a variety of types, styles, and colors, that are perfect for the beginner on a budget or filling out the collections of experienced horological connoisseurs. 

If you’re looking for a quality watch at an affordable price, Tissot and Movado are two candidates worthy of your consideration. I much prefer Tissot for its value for the money, in-house movements, and more classic designs. 

Having said that, Movado has plenty of fans and if you are an avant-garde type of person, the brand might just suit you perfectly.

rolex 16700 vs 16710

Rolex is easily the most well-known watch brand on the planet. It has legions of devoted fans, and many horology buffs dream of owning one. With a long history that dates back more than a century and a variety of collections ranging from classic dress watches to divers to chronographs in stylish colorways, there are plenty of Rolexes to choose from. 

Like any luxury brand, Rolex also makes excellent GMT watches. Originally designed for pilots of PanAm in the 1950s, these watches helped usher in the jet age by allowing wearers to track more than one time zone. A useful function for world travelers as well as aviators, Rolex continued to evolve these beautiful tool watches from the GMT Master to the GMT Master II collections.

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Today, those seeking one of Rolex’s classic fine timepieces can choose between the Rolex GMT Master 16700 and the GMT Master II 16710. Which is right for you? Let’s take a closer look at these two luxury watches.

The Rolex GMT Master 16700

The Rolex GMT Master 16700

The Rolex GMT Master Ref. 16700 is the older of these two timepieces. In production from 1988-99, the 16700 is the culmination of the GMT Master series that started in 1955. Jet-powered aircraft and international business made the world a smaller place.

A watch that could track multiple time zones was useful to pilots and travelers as well as anyone who worked or did business with others across the globe.

The Rolex GMT Master 16700 is powered by the brand’s caliber 3175 automatic movement. It has a non-independent GMT hand with a date complication and a hacking function. It’s COSC-certified and has a 48-hour power reserve.

The case is stainless steel and 40 mm in diameter. With a screw-down crown, this watch is water resistant to 100 meters, a good number for a non-diver.

With a black dial and Rolex’s classic handset, consisting of a sword minute hand and the Mercedes hour hand, it’s easy to read, as all of the brand’s watches are. It also has a red arrow GMT hand and a needle second hand. Early models used a tritium lume, while the later ones have Luminova.

The bi-directional 24-hour bezel has an aluminum insert and was available in either two-tone red and blue, called the Pepsi, or all black. You have the option of a bold or subtle dial and bezel combination.

The key feature of the 16700 is its ability to track two time zones. The hour hand goes around the dial once every 12 hours, as is standard, while the GMT hand makes one circuit every 24 hours. The two hands are tied together and cannot be set independently.

The GMT hand essentially displays military time. So, for example, at 9 am, the hour hand will point to the baton at nine on the dial, while the GMT hand points to the nine on the bezel. At 9 pm, the hour hand again points to the baton at nine, but the GMT hand will point to the 21 on the bezel.

The way to track an extra time zone is to turn the bezel so the correct time in the zone you desire is lined up with the GMT hand. All you have to do is read the hand the corresponds to the time zone you are monitoring.

Although the 16700 can only track two time zones, a nice feature is the quick set date, which comes in handy at the end of the shorter months, especially February. 

The GMT Master 16700 comes on either a stainless steel Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, both of which pair nicely with the case.

This timepiece was one of Rolex’s best sellers until it was phased out in 1999 in favor of the GMT Master II 16710. You can still get one on the used market, and they remain popular with horology fans. 

The Rolex GMT Master II 16710

The Rolex GMT Master II 16710

In 1989, Rolex upped its game with the release of the GMT Master II 16710. It offered the ability to track three time zones as well as a new movement and an additional colorway. Production of this update GMT watch ran until 2007, and it was a hit and is still popular on the preowned market.

The early 16710 models were powered by the caliber 3185 movement, with the later ones upgraded to the caliber 3186.

Both movements offer a slightly upgraded power reserve of 50 hours and are COSC-certified. Both movements have a date complication, a hacking function, and a quick set GMT hand. The stainless steel case comes in the same 40 mm size as the 16700 and has a screw-down crown and 100 meters of water resistance. 

Like the 16700, the 16710 has a black dial and the same classic Rolex handset, including the red arrow GMT hand. Up until 1997, the 16710 used a tritium lume and switched to Luminova in 1998 and 1999. For the rest of its run, this watch used Superluminova.

The bi-directional bezel is made from anodized aluminum and is a 120-click bezel. In addition to the red and blue Pepsi and all black bezels, Rolex added a third option. A red and black bezel, which came to be known as the Coke, offers a compromise between the subtle all black and the bold Pepsi. 

The main additional feature of the 16710 is that it can track three time zones. The hour hand travels around the dial once in 12 hours and the GMT hand once in 24 hours, just like the older 16700. However, each hand can be set separately.

This allows the user to track one time zone with the hour hand and a second with the GMT. By adjusting the bezel to a third time zone, you’ve got a triple-threat GMT. There is no quick-set date adjustment, but it’s a small price to pay for the extra time zone tracking.

The 16710 comes on a stainless Oyster or Jubilee bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp. This clasp is more secure than the one that precedes it, and the steel has a greater chromium content. This makes it more corrosion-resistant, offering further protection from water. 

Rolex still makes GMT Master II watches, but the 16710 is out of production and only available as a pre-owned option. It nevertheless is still a popular choice for Rolex collectors.

Rolex GMT Master II 16700 vs 16710 – How to Choose

So, we have two very fine watches in the GMT Master 16700 and the GMT Master II 16710. If you’re looking for a classic Rolex, how do you choose? This depends on the features you need and desire and also the look you prefer.

Starting with aesthetics, if you have your heart set on the Coke color scheme, you will have to go with the 16710, since the 16700 only has the all black and the Pepsi. In these two colorways, the timepieces look virtually identical, and most people would be hard-pressed to tell them apart.

With its stainless bezel and aluminum insert, the 16700 has a slightly vintage look. If that’s important to you, take it into consideration. The anodized aluminum bezel of the 16710 has a subtly slicker look. You have to look very closely to see this, but it does matter to some watch collectors. 

The major difference between these two classic watches is, of course, the ability to track two vs. three time zones. For many people, two is sufficient for their needs.

When you add in the convenience of the quick-set date, the 16700 is a good choice. Not everyone needs to track three time zones, but if, say, you work in the New York office of an international company that has branches in London and LA, you may find the added time zone useful. 

The dials and handsets are identical, but there is the question of lume. If you are a tritium fan, there are far more 16700s out there with that option. The 16710 only used tritium briefly. You should have no trouble finding either of these watches with Luminova, but if you prefer Superluminova, you’ve got to go with the 16710. 

In terms of movements, the 16710 is available with the updated 3185 or 3186. However, the 3175 of the 16700 is every bit as accurate and reliable, so this is really just a matter of an additional two hours of power reserve. Both watches are available with either the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet, but if you are a fan of the Oysterlock clasp, that points you to the 16710. 

Conclusion

Throughout its long history, Rolex has produced a large number of classic watches that are stylish, reliable, and accurate. The GMT Master series watches are among the best timepieces of that type on the market.

Two of the most popular among horology connoisseurs are the GMT Master 16700 and the GMT Master II 16710. If you like the look of these timepieces, consider what options are most important to you, and search the pre-owned market for the one that floats your boat.

Upon reading the title of this article, many of you probably thought, “Tissot vs Rolex? That’s like a mediocre Division 3 college football team taking on the Philadelphia Eagles”. Yes, the two brands do inhabit different levels of the horological hierarchy.

Nevertheless, it’s a worthwhile comparison. If you are a newbie watch collector who dreams of a Rolex, you’re not there yet. For an entry-level timepiece, Tissot is a brand well worth considering. 

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Both Tissot and Rolex are Swiss-made and have long and illustrious histories. Each has contributed to the art of watchmaking and, to this day, continues to craft stylish, accurate, and reliable watches. In fact, even after you get your first Rolex, you may well want a Tissot or two in your collection.

Brand Heritage

When it comes to heritage, both Tissot and Rolex are loaded with it. Both have more than a century of watchmaking behind them. Both are based in Switzerland, still considered the capital of the horological world. Although each targets different sectors of watch lovers out there, both have plenty to be proud of.

Tissot

Tissot Gentleman

Tissot’s story begins in the mid 19th Century; 1853 to be exact. The father and son team of Charles-Felicien and Charles-Emile Tissot started crafting pocket watches in their home in Le Locle. Among their early successes was the first mass-produced pocket watch as well as the first that could track two time zones. 

The Tissots’ timepieces became popular throughout Europe and particularly in the Russian Empire, where nobles purchased many of the pocket watches. Such was the demand, that Charles-Emile moved to Moscow in 1885. In the post-World War I era, when men began wearing wristwatches, Tissot jumped in with both feet, crafting some reliable, accurate, and popular timepieces.

When the Great Depression began in 1929, it impacted industries worldwide, including watchmakers. Tissot was determined to stay in business and partnered with Omega.

The move proved to be a wise one and Tissot thrived, creating one of the first anti-magnetic watches in 1930. As the decade moved on, Tissot became the Official Timekeeper for Swiss ski races in 1938, its reputation growing.

When it came to using uncommon materials for watches, Tissot was near the front of the pack. In 1971, the brand made the first watch with a plastic case. It was innovative for the time and Tissot followed up in 1987 with the first mother-of-pearl dial.

A year later, Tissot created a watch that used wood, a material that is still fairly rare today. The brand now has a reputation as one of the best entry-level watches on the market. It sits under the umbrella of the Swatch Group along with Omega, Hamilton, Breguet, Longines, Blancpain, and several other quality brands.

Rolex

Rolex 1908 History

Perhaps more impactful than any innovation or watch model, is the reputation Rolex has created throughout the world. The company was founded in London in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf, a fine watchmaker and a brilliant marketer. He registered the name “Rolex” in 1908, and following the First World War, moved his company to Switzerland where it thrives to this day as one of the nation’s greatest products.

In 1926, Wilsdorf demonstrated his marketing savvy when he purchased the patent for a water-resistant and dust-resistant case. Rolex developed it into its Oyster case.

Wilsdorf greatly boosted the brand’s reputation a year later, when a British nurse named Mercedes Glietze swam across the English Channel with an Oyster watch draped around her neck. The timepiece came out of the water functioning perfectly and Rolex got a huge amount of publicity.

In its early years, Rolex was an innovator, inventing the perpetual rotor in 1931. The metal semicircle attached to the back of the movement and rotated when the user moved their arms. This wound the mainspring and is the principle behind the automatic watch

As the years moved forward, Rolex developed a reputation for building quality, durable, and accurate tool watches. Divers, chronographs, and GMTs were offered alongside dress watches and Rolex became the “it” brand.

Today, Rolex has settled into its reputation. It is by far, the best known watch brand on the planet. Even those who don’t know a crown from a bezel know Rolex. So great is the demand for their watches, that Rolex cannot keep up, and obtaining one can involve a long wait and building a relationship with an AD, not to mention shelling out a lot of money. 

Model Variety

Although each brand sits on a different tier, both Tissot and Rolex have large catalogs filled with a variety of models of all the types of watches you would hope to find. 

Tissot

Tissot offers a wide variety of men’s and women’s watches in several case sizes. Cases and bracelets are available in stainless or gold-colored stainless, as well as two-tone. Genuine leather straps in multiple colors are other options that allow customers to choose their perfect timepiece.

Tissot has a nice selection of dial colors and textures. Standard hues such as white, black, and blue sit in the catalog along with bolder colors such as green, gold, and ivory. Sport watches and casual timepieces are offered along with classy dress watches with either automatic or quartz movement.

Some of the brand’s more popular sport watches are the Seastar divers, which have a water resistance of 300 meters, equal to dive watches available in much higher priced brands.

Fans of chronographs have some nice options in the Supersport Chrono series. The Gentlemen’s, PR100, and PRX models are classic dress watches and are some of Tissot’s best-selling timepieces.

The Le Locle collection features Tissot’s most expensive watches. While being priced below $2,000, these models are available with 18K gold or rose gold cases and bracelets. They add luxury to your wrist at entry-level prices. 

Rolex

Rolex also makes men’s and women’s watches and has many different models in its catalog. The classy, dressy Day-Date and Date Just watches are as reliable as they are elegant. Each features a date window at three o’clock magnified by Rolex’s Cyclops lens.

The Day-Date displays the day of the week at 12. These watches come in several precious metals as well as multiple case sizes and dial colors. 

One of many popular Rolex models is its first automatic water-resistant watch, the Oyster Perpetual. It’s available in many dial colors and textures and has a solid water resistance of 100 meters.

Rolex has several collections of dive watches with amazing levels of water resistance. The 300-meter Submariner is the base model and since its release in 1953, has maintained a position as one of the most popular dive watches with horology lovers. The classic design has changed little and the dials and bezels are available in numerous color combinations to suit a wide variety of tastes.

Rolex makes two dive models with astonishing levels of water resistance. The Sea-Dweller is water resistant to 1220 meters and the Deepsea is rated to a mind-blowing 3900 meters. Certainly, these are not practical levels of resistance, but they have come about because of the fierce competition between Rolex and Omega.

In 1935, Sir Malcolm Campbell, a British racing driver set a world land speed record while wearing a Rolex, establishing the brand’s longtime connection to motorsport. The record was set in Daytona, Florida, and inspired the name for Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona Chronograph.

One of the most desired and difficult-to-obtain timepieces on the planet, the Daytona was legendary actor Paul Newman’s favorite watch. Available in numerous dial colors, and material options, it’s easy to see why people love it. 

Yet another category in which Rolex excels is GMT watches. The GMT-Master was released in 1954 and is extremely popular throughout the world of watch collecting. These models are available in many dial colors with bidirectional rotating bezels that have two colors that nicely coordinate the dial. This has earned them nicknames such as “Batman”, “Root Beer”, “Coke”, and “Pepsi”. 

Design

Tissot and Rolex both tend to embrace classic watch design. Rolex likes to stay with established favorites with proven sales records while Tissot is a bit more adventurous.

Tissot

Tissot’s partnership with Omega has influenced its design philosophy. The brand sticks with classic features such as dot and baton indices, Roman numerals, and sword hands. Straps are stitched leather and bracelets three and five link. T

he Powermatic series offers a check texture to the dial, and there are subtle and bold colors available on the brand’s dials. Most models are conservative in design but Tissot does offer some skeleton dials and square cases for watch lovers with more free-spirited tastes. 

Rolex

Since its beginning, Rolex has carefully crafted its reputation as the most desired watch on the market. It has been the classic retirement, special achievement, and graduation gift for decades.

For many, it’s the grail of grails. As such, the brand does not mess with success and maintains the same design philosophy that launched it to such lofty heights.

Back in earlier days, Rolex was an innovator in the development of automatic movements and water-resistant timepieces. These days, the brand tends to rest on its laurels but still employs expert watchmakers who craft stunning timepieces of the best materials. These watches are reliable, durable, and among the most accurate in the world. 

Rolex does still come out with some boldly-designed watches such as the Daytona Eye of the Tiger. The Oyster Perpetual Gumball is another wild dial that has sold very well. For the most part, though, Rolex stays with the classic designs that have carried to the top. A Submariner from the 1950s or ’60s looks very much like that model does today. 

Quartz Rolexes are very rare and the brand has largely stayed with its high-quality automatic movements. The brand also tends to eschew exhibition and elaborately engraved case backs. Doing what you do best when you have a large and enthusiastic fan base is good business sense.

One area where Rolex has had to make some design changes is in making it easier to tell a real Rolex from a fake. No other watch brand is counterfeited nearly as much. Rolex has addressed this by adding features such as a laser-engraved crown logo on the crystal. 

Build Quality & Materials

Tissot

Although not a luxury brand, Tissot does use quality materials in their timepiece. Cases, hands, indices, and bracelets are made with industry-standard 316L stainless steel. The surfaces are alternately brushed and polished for a look that pops. 

Crystals and exhibition case backs are made from scratch-resistant sapphire coated with an anti-reflective material. This is a nice touch for watches at this price point. The Le Locle collection features some models that have 18K yellow or rose gold cases and bracelets. The popular Gentlemen collection offers titanium cases and bracelets. 

Straps are made from genuine leather. Although not top-of-the-line, the straps look great and hold up well to daily wear. Super-Luminova is used on the hands and indices of numerous models. This ensures you can easily read the dial in low-light conditions.

Tissot watches are well-built by qualified watchmakers. Hold one next to a Rolex and the difference is clear, yet a Tissot is still a quality timepiece, especially given the much lower cost.

Rolex

Rolex uses the highest-quality materials in all of its watches. The brand uses its own unique blend of 904L stainless steel, called “Oystersteel”, in cases, bracelets, indices, and hands. It’s durable and looks incredible when brushed and polished.

Precious metal models are made with 18K yellow gold and everose gold. These metals are stunning to look at and are among the most prestigious timepieces in the Rolex catalog.

Rolex covers its dials in top-quality scratch-resistant sapphire crystals, which are anti-reflective coated. This same material is used in the Cyclops lenses that sit over date complications. Divers and GMTs have ceramic bezels that shine and resist scratches. 

Straps are made from the highest quality leather, including crocodile. They’re comfortable, durable, and stylish. Rolex continues to live up to its reputation as a crafter of tough tool watches and classy dress watches. Their standards are high and you can be sure that every watch that leaves the factory lives up to them. 

Movements

The movement is the heart of a watch and if it doesn’t function well, the looks don’t matter. Rolex is renowned for its movements and Tissot’s watch works are accurate and well-crafted.

Tissot

Tissot does make in-house movements, the best of which is its 11 ½” automatic. These have a useful 38-hour power reserve and are COSC-certified. The brand also has in-house movements that are accurate but not to COSC standards and have 30-hour power reserves. Naturally, these cost less.

Tissot uses generic ETA quartz and automatic movements in its lower-priced timepieces. They are Swiss-made and solidly built with a good degree of accuracy. Tissot’s movements are designed to be admired and with the exhibition case back models, you can do just that.

Rolex

Rolex was an innovator in developing automatic movements during its infancy. They excelled at modifying new advancements from other brands to create their own movements. A great example of this is the modified Zenith movement that Rolex used in the first Daytona models. 

Currently, Rolex tends to stick with what works and their watches are powered by movements that are COSC-certified, reliable, durable, and some of the most accurate in the world of horology.

The power reserves are generous and the materials and craftsmanship are second to none. Rolex has rarely made quartz movements and doesn’t make exhibition case backs. Although you can’t see the movements, they are works of art.

Price Point

In the category of price point, there is a huge gap between these two brands. This is to be expected, as Tissot is an entry-level brand and Rolex occupies the luxury level. 

Tissot

If you are just getting into watches, Tissot is one of the first brands you should look at. They offer many models that sell for less than $500.

Their in-house automatics can be had for $500-$1,000. At the top of the catalog are the Le Locle models, with the highest price settling in at $1,800. Quite a bargain for a precious metal timepiece.

Tissot gives you a ton of value for what you pay. High-quality, in-house COSC-certified movements, 18K gold, and all models prices below $2,000.

Rolex

Ah, Rolex. If you want one, you are going to pay. The brand takes advantage of its lofty status and even the lowest-priced models are close to the $10,000 mark. Once you start getting into the more desirable Rolexes, you’re talking north of $10,000 and even $20,000. 

It is also difficult to obtain a Rolex. The brand simply cannot keep up with the incredible demand and Rolex ADs often will not have the model you are looking for.

You have to put your name on a list of interest and compete with regular customers who will take priority. Waits for Submariners, Daytonas, and GMT-Masters are usually measured in years.

An alternate way to go is to buy one on the grey market. However, you will likely have to pay much higher than retail.

Although Rolex makes extremely high-quality and beautiful watches, I have to score them low on value for the money. You are paying a premium for reputation and prestige. Is it worth it? I say no, but that’s for you to decide.

Conclusion

Comparing Tissot and Rolex is a stretch considering the difference in their status in the horological world. Despite this, both are excellent brands. If you are just starting your watch collection, I urge you to check out Tissot. You can easily find them.

Most major department stores carry Tissot and you can try a bunch on and for a reasonable price, walk out with the one you love that day. Going through the hassle and expense of getting a Rolex doesn’t make sense for beginners. Your tastes will change so why spend that much at the start?

Rolex has the rep and the street cred. If it’s your grail, then go for it. Just be warned, you will be shelling out a lot of money and going through loopholes. If you are a more experienced collector and have the money and patience, by all means, grab yourself a Rolex.

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