Category: Grand Seiko

At a glance, you may be mistaken for thinking that the Grand Seiko Hi-Beat SLGH005 and the Spring Drive SLGA009 (released in 2021 and 2022 respectively) are the same watch, albeit for their movements. I thought so too. If that were true, however, this would be one of the shortest articles in history. The SLGH005 has been reviewed many, many times before, and the general consensus is that people love it.

Its high-end spec has been tried and tested on the wrists of avid collectors and has been analyzed to the nth degree, yet seldom can anyone find much to fault about its design. The same can be said for the SLGA009. 

But let’s be clear, this is not the same watch. In this article, I will use this space to outline the uniqueness of the “White Birch” SLGA009 and how it differs from its sister watch, the SLGH005.

Before we get into it, a little on Grand Seiko, the brand itself…

About Grand Seiko

Many don’t know this, but Seiko and Grand Seiko are not the same brand. Both, however, are part of the Seiko Watch Corporation. Here’s where it gets confusing, though. GS (Grand Seiko) was actually part of Seiko at one point. It found its feet as an entity of its own in 2017, enabling it to focus on high-end manufacturing. 

So, while Seiko has always been the Japanese brand associated with quality and affordability, GS fills the gap for those looking for quality luxury. These watches may not hold the same value as a Rolex or AP watch, but they can definitely compete in the same space. GS focuses on in-house movements, crafts unique dials, and even applies its own case finishes.

But if you were wondering what makes Grand Seiko so special, it has to be watches like the “White Birch” that demonstrate the brand’s breadth of skill and technique in classic watchmaking. Those watches offer qualities on par with any reputable Swiss (and sometimes even more). The brand’s movements are just as superior. 

They are ultra-accurate, and that includes the Spring Drive, which gives the second hand that effortlessly gliding motion you see across the dial. Many Grand Seiko watches today nod to some of the brand’s first watches. That can only mean one thing: over the brand’s 50 years of watchmaking, barely anything has had to change, and that’s a really good thing. 

During the 1960s and 1970s, designer Taro Tanaka even created a set of rules called the “Grammar of Designs”. That new design language helped GS watches truly stand out.

Despite ceasing its production of quartz watches in 1975 and being reintroduced as Seiko’s sub-brand back in 1988, Grand Seiko has come a long way. It began specializing in mechanical watches from the year 1998 and has never looked back since. The company’s Spring Drive technology, launched in 2002, promised superior accuracy, putting the brand on the map for its expertise in movement manufacturing. 

Today, watches like the “White Birch” are pillars of the brand’s success. Watches like the SLGA009 are considered to be some of the best in the industry, and you can certainly see why. So, where did the manufacturer get its inspiration from when creating this watch?

The Inspiration Behind the Grand Seiko SLGA009

In the heart of the Shizukuishi region of Japan, white birch trees spearhead the soil that Grand Seiko’s watchmaking studios sit upon. They form a dense forest around the facilities, reaching up to around 40 feet tall. 

The white birch, which grows in abundance there, is also known as the Asian birch and is renowned for its striking white bark. The forest of trees and their white, textured tree trunks create a stark contrast against the unusual landscape here. Blue skies and crisp snow make the scenery look even more graphic and sheer in the winter.

The scene is a slice of unadulterated, minimalist beauty, which I think Grand Seiko experts manage to capture perfectly in the textured dial of this SLGA009 watch. 

Without even needing an introduction here, you can see from the outset that the dial of the “White Birch” is a talking point. It draws the eye in towards its deep furrows, creating a tapestry of contrasting silvery-white shades and shadows that evoke the surface of the bark itself.

The Origins of the Grand Seiko “White Birch”

The heritage of the Grand Seiko “White Birch” Spring Drive watch harkens back to the SLGH005 and, before that, the SLGH002 and SLGH003 models. All these measure a 40mm diameter and sit at a height of 11.8mm on the wrist. If your wrist sits in the 8-inch realm, this is the ultimate “Goldilocks” size for you. 

These watches all take inspiration from the earlier Series 9 watch, which was met with resounding success back in 1967. The Series 9 was designed by Taro Tanaka, who I mentioned earlier. He helped steer the direction and framework that all future GS designs worked to by outlining these simple values.

At the time, when Grand Seiko launched its “White Birch” SLGH005 watch, it marked the first of its kind to be equipped with the then-new automatic Hi-Beat Calibre 9SA5. For those who don’t already know, this engine benefits from the brand’s “10-beat” technology (because it beats ten times per second for higher precision). 

The next generation of the “White Birch” came equipped with the Spring Drive movement, which cleverly combines the benefits of mechanical and quartz technology into one.

Both of these models, inspired by Japanese nature, belong to a greater design concept that Grand Seiko calls the “Evolution 9” philosophy. It was created a couple of years before the “White Birch” arrived and acts as the backbone to which all models adhere to. Think of the Evolution 9 style as a sort of checklist of criteria that all GS watches adhere to. The concept focuses on three key areas; aesthetics, legibility, and comfort. 

From a legibility point of view, GS watchmakers create dial elements with flat planes and build them up on the surface of the dial to give them a three-dimensional effect. These angles reflect the light and cast shadows across the dial in ways I’ve never seen before. Moreover, the dial’s faceted features create sharp points and crisp lines that reflect the light along bladed edges, while curves are kept to a minimum to retain a sense of precision.

Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGA009: In-Depth Review

It wasn’t until I had the chance to get some hands-on time with the SLGA009 that I could fully appreciate the differences between the Hi-Beat and Spring Drive “White Birch” models. Sure, we’re still talking about subtle differences here.

However, subtle differences mean a lot in the world of horology, where just a couple of millimeters of growth in a lug-to-lug measurement can take a watch from manageable to overbearing. It is, after all, the small differences that watch connoisseurs really appreciate.  

Luckily, Grand Seiko is all about the small differences. Examples of meticulous attention to detail can be seen in so many of its watches – the subtle nods to nature here and there and the dials that capture the interplay between light and shadows, for example. 

All these practices can be attributed to Grand Seiko’s unique manufacturing processes, which I mentioned earlier. In every sense of the word, these are a class above Seiko timepieces, and for good reason.

Boy, does it make all the difference to hold this watch and turn it under the light? Suffice it to say, photos of this watch don’t do it justice. When you look head-on at the dial, those planes and polished surfaces I mentioned earlier are all there. But you don’t get to witness the three-dimensional effect of the dial until you hold it in your hand and turn it under the light. 

All the crevices, grooves, and furrows of the dial come to life as light washes over them. This is perhaps where the SLGA009 differs the most from the Hi-Beat model. It is subtler in some ways, but more effective in others.

The Dial

You really do get a sense of what those white birch trees look like in the flesh when you gaze into the dial of the Seiko “White Birch” Spring Drive watch. What initially drew me into the display was the subtle modifications that GS has thrown in during the transition from the Hi-Beat movement to the Spring Drive. 

The standout difference is that the dial texture on the SLGA009 is less aggressive. The grooves are not so prominent, and the shade of the dial is much whiter than the silvery tones of the former model. I think it’s this difference in dial color that wins me over. Give me a white dial over a silver one any day. In this case, it makes the design look cleaner and more contemporary.

At the same time, the beauty of the textured dial is subtle and more discreet. You have to work a little harder, delve a little deeper even, to appreciate its hidden beauty and I like that. On the contrary, I think the whiter dial allows you to pick up the branches of the birch tree more easily when you do take a closer look.

Next up, the date at 3 o’clock. This one is subtler in design, with a thinner frame that’s less bold and “blocky”. In reference to those integral Evolution 9 tick-list features, the faceted hour markers are ready and waiting for me to read and are meticulously polished. 

The hour hand has a chopped-off tip, and the blued second hand now has a capped pinion, which gives the dial a better feel of completion. In contrast, the Hi-Beat movement features the exposed silver pinion tip, making the display look a little unfinished. Call me “OCD”, but unless we’re talking abstract watch designs, I like my dial elements rounded off nicely and neatly. Of course, this also helps aid legibility.

If you look towards the lower portion of the dial, you’ll see the “Spring Drive” and “Five days” lettering above 6 o’clock, which brings me to talk about the power reserve. One of the first things that really interested me about this watch (and the Hi-Beat version before it) is the fact that Seiko removed the power reserve indicator from the dial and relocated it to the back of the case. 

I don’t feel this takes anything integral away from the design, nor does it add anything either. The “White Birch” is a watch that you can appreciate for its clarity, and if clarity means relocating the power reserve to the rear of the watch, then so be it. Plus, you still get to enjoy the beautiful blued hand, which displays the autonomy of the watch clearly and elegantly.

The Movement

Speaking of the power reserve, that indicator is a monitor for the beating heart of the Grand Seiko SLGA009 “White Birch” – the Spring Drive Calibre 9RA2. If you were wondering how this sophisticated movement works, it uses a thermo-compensator, which checks for fluctuations in temperature hundreds of times throughout the day. 

The spring-powered movement has an electro-magnetic breaking system and is regulated by a quartz crystal. This movement promises a power reserve of 5 days and features an off-set magic lever to allow for extra thinness.

Both the Hi-Beat and Spring Drive calibers are great movements. But if I were to pick one, I’d have to opt for the Spring Drive, mainly because this is a completely unique invention by Grand Seiko. It shows how the brand wants to pitch itself in the industry – as a boundary pusher and innovator.

Materials

The Grand Seiko SLGA009 watch is crafted from stainless steel and benefits from a ton of Zaratsu and matte finishes. The top of the bezel is flat and brushed, creating an understated frame around the textured bark-inspired dial. Zaratsu polishing is also evident on the sides of the bezel. 

Turn the case, and you’ll see the sides are also executed with a brushed finish. Grand Seiko equips the front and back of the watch with a piece of sapphire crystal glass. On the front, the anti-reflective technology on the glass grants a clear view into the dial. The glass is also incredibly hard to scratch up, helping to preserve the dial for years to come.

The Case and How It Wears

I mentioned earlier that the 40mm diameter of the “White Birch” Hi-Beat is the sweet spot for the average-sized wrist. The same can be said for the Spring Drive. But since my female wrist can’t testify to how this watch wears in real life, I researched what collectors make of the dimensions of this watch. 

Just like the SLGH005, the case wears well, but only on those wrists measuring at the top end of the 6” scale. Anything below that may not feel the full benefit of the case’s angular profile and its short lugs. Still, the watch has a low center of gravity, enabling it to sit better on the wrist.

I like the fact that Grand Seiko opts for a very slightly domed sapphire glass top. It does protrude slightly over the top of the bezel, but its design helps keep the dimensions of the watch in proportion and protects the dial from impact. 

The crown is another obvious difference compared to the Hi-Beat version. It’s larger and grooved for an easy grip. It still bears the Grand Seiko logo on its surface but feels and looks more prominent.

The Bracelet

The matte sides of the case feature drilled lugs that make for easy strap changes. That said, strap options for a 22mm to 20mm tapering bracelet may be harder to acquire than, say, a 22mm to 18mm. This is only a gently tapering bracelet, but it helps bring the profile of the watch down and fits better on the ventral side of the arm. 

The bracelet is a stainless steel three-link design with a three-fold clasp and push-button mechanism. I’ve seen the watch on a black alligator leather band; it looks equally stylish and classic. What I think would look particularly cool is a brown leather strap on this watch to bring out its more casual side.

Conclusion

Quite often, Japanese watches are considered cheaper alternatives to traditional Swiss timepieces. But that’s not always the case. Brands like Grand Seiko break that mold with designs like the “Snowflake” and the “White Birch”. 

The Japanese watchmaker crafts timepieces from high-end materials and uses cutting-edge technology to create some of the industry’s finest sports and dress watches. Grand Seiko is a name I often use to argue against these stereotypical views on Japanese quality.

As I mentioned, there are some subtle but significant differences to note between the Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGA009 and the Hi-Beat version. That said, this is a beautiful watch in its own right. Its key features are a distinctly smooth sweeping second hand, courtesy of the Spring Drive movement, and an attractive, white birch-inspired dial leveraged by artisan finishes and high-end case executions. 

The dial is white now, and the crown is larger. The watch also promises greater accuracy and boasts a more discreet dial decoration that somehow achieves an even truer bark-effect finish.

I’d love to see more dial techniques emerge as Grand Seiko continues to grow and evolve. For models like the “White Birch”, this is about as good as it gets. This is a watch for daily wear. It’s sophisticated enough to pair with elegant attire, but it also looks great in a jeans and shirt ensemble. 

But remember to err on the side of caution if you’re looking at donning your 5-6” inch wrist with a Grand Seiko like this. Go try one on to get a feel for whether the tapered bracelet and shortened lugs feel in proportion with your wrist.

Whether it be the texture of snow, the ripples on a lake, or the color of the sky at a particular time of the day, Grand Seiko has pretty much interpreted every aspect of nature seen outside their factory windows onto a watch dial. 

The Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi is nestled in a quiet forest in Japan’s Iwate Prefecture. It’s here that the original Grand Seiko watch was created and that their new watches and 9S mechanical movements are made.

It seems that outside these windows, Grand Seiko is treated to an abundance of breathtaking scenery from which they can draw inspiration when designing their watches. Whether it be cherry blossoms in bloom in Japan’s early springtime, a garden path through a bamboo forest, or the sight of rain falling on Mt. Iwate, Japan’s nature has well and truly been honored by a Grand Seiko dial more times than we can count.

And yet, just when you think their inspiration must be running thin, they launch one of the most brilliant-looking watch dials I have ever seen. The Grand Seiko SLGH005, nicknamed the “White Birch” for obvious reasons, is inspired by Shirakaba, the Japanese term for white birch trees. “Shira” signifies “white,” and “kaba” combines the kanji for “wood” and “beauty”. 

In images I had seen online, the dial finish looked immaculate, but I had not seen the watch in person… until now. So now that I have it on my wrist, the question is: does the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 live up to my expectations?

The History of the Grand Seiko SLGH005

Before we get into the nitty-gritty details of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005, I want to first mention the impact this watch had on its release. When it launched in early 2020, it felt like the start of a new chapter for Grand Seiko. It wasn’t wholly new in any sense, really; we’d seen the sleek and dynamic Evolution 9 case and bracelet already, and we’d enjoyed several models equipped with their in-house Caliber 9SA5 movement. 

However, what set the SLGH005 apart from its predecessors was that it marked their first regular production model. It wasn’t exclusive to any part of the world nor limited to a specific number of designs to celebrate the company’s 60th anniversary. 

This might not seem all that extraordinary, but when a brand debuts a new case architecture and a new movement to go with it, there’s always some uncertainty about how well it will fare, both in popularity and reliability. 

So, the launch of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 as a permanent addition to the brand’s portfolio was proof these aesthetics and technologies were here to stay.

The Evolution 9 Case 

For me, dimensions can make or break a watch. I have fairly slender wrists, at around five-and-a-half inches wide, so when I saw that the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 had some healthy proportions, I knew we were off to a good start. 

The case measures 40mm in diameter, 11.7mm in height, and a 47mm lug-to-lug. And for those interested, I measured the end link-to-end link diameter as 50.3mm. These are classic dimensions for a daily beater watch and would happily suit wrists similar to mine or bigger.

It wears a little lower on the wrist than its height suggests, too. That’s helped by the double-stepped case, the low flanks of the bezel, and the beautiful downward-turned lugs. The case is entirely machined from stainless steel and follows the architecture of previous Evolution 9 models. The Evolution 9 series is designed to be a more modern watch compared to some of GS’s more traditional collections like the Heritage and Elegance. 

It cleverly blends a range of aesthetics sourced from Grand Seiko’s design history to create a watch that’s not quite a sports watch nor a dress watch but one somewhere in between. 

This makes the SLGH005 extremely versatile, working just as well with denim as a black tie. Part of the reason it feels like a sports watch is the screw-down crown, which offers 100-meter water resistance, a specification far higher than the typical dress watch standard. 

The contrasting finishes used on the case are also to blame. There’s satin brushing on the case sides and bezel top, which juxtaposes nicely with the bright polishing used on the bezel sides and lug edges. The latter is achieved using Grand Seiko’s famous Zaratsu polishing technique, which is done entirely by hand and is a rather lengthy process. The result, though, is stunning with a mirror-like finish. 

On top, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 delivers high-quality sapphire crystal glass that is both cambered and box-shaped. The box section is seen outward while the cambered shape is central, creating a seemingly flat but beautifully undistorted view of the dial. Sapphire crystal is also featured on the case back, so you can admire the in-house movement inside when the watch is off your wrist.

The White Birch Dial

Due to its name, I expected the dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 would be white. But it’s not. In fact, the textured display is entirely silver with a metallic finish inspired by the look of the white birch trees spotted outside the Shizukuishi studio. 

I was pleasantly surprised upon unboxing the SLGH005. Part of me had wondered if a white dial would make the design look all too similar to the GS Snowflake. Instead, the silver dial really makes this watch a novelty in its own right. 

The dial texture well and truly looks like the grain of a white birch branch or trunk. I don’t know how Grand Seiko does it, but they are experts in mimicking the colors and textures of nature onto dials. 

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 is one of the same. It has very deep grooves that give the dial an almost rustic-like appearance and provide plenty of visual interest. It’s one of those displays you can get lost in all too easily. 

According to Grand Seiko, creating the SLGH005’s dial is no easy feat. It requires up to 20 steps to fabricate, many of which involve clear coating the surface. This is done up to 14 or 15 times before the finishing touches are done to create the final silver color and texture. It’s only after that that the Japanese watchmaker can begin adding the GS logo, silver-bordered date window, and hands and minute markers. 

For the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 watch, the indexes are hand-applied and faceted with the 12 o’clock marker featuring the Evolution 9’s double-faceted profile. The hour hand is uniquely shaped, with a flat end, while the minutes and seconds are kept nice and sharp. 

The latter is steel and fired blue for a brilliant contrast against the rest of the monochromatic display. There’s no lume in sight, but the bright polishing of all the hardware provides plenty of legibility, at least in the daytime.

Movement 

With so much going on with the case and dial, it’s easy to forget that the movement within the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 watch is just as much, if not more impressive. 

The movement in question is Caliber 9SA5, an in-house manufacture movement that brings together some of Grand Seiko’s greatest proprietary technologies into one place. The result is a movement with a weekend-proof 80-hour power reserve and a high beat frequency of 36,600 vibrations per hour.

One of the biggest draws of the Caliber 9SA5 is the escapement design. It has a dual-impulse, increasing energy efficiency and allowing for such a high frequency and long power reserve. 

I won’t go into too much detail about how this works because I’m no engineer, but I do know it’s technology garnered plenty of applause and is considered a real example of haute horlogerie. It’s also 15% slimmer than previous 9S calibers, measuring to just 5.18mm tall. This is achieved by placing the barrel and gear trains in a special horizontal layout. 

In addition to being technically impressive, the Caliber 9SA5 is a beautiful movement. Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can view the breathtaking bridges designed to mimic the flowing lines of Mt. Iwate and the Shizukuishi River. The surfaces are treated with striping, polished bevels, and perlage, and the oscillating rotor has a more openwork design compared to previous 9S Calibres, giving us a better view of the components below that are hard at work.

Straps

Like all the watches in the Evolution 9 Series, the Grand Seiko “White Birch” SLGH005 is finished by a modern and broad metal bracelet. It matches the case in its stainless steel construction and has a wonderful array of finishes including polished links on the outer face and a satin-brushed top. 

I particularly like the staggered link alignment, as this adds to the watch’s sporty persona, plus the bracelet has an integrated end link to remove any awkward gaps between the case and strap. 

The buckle is just as beautifully finished with both satin and polished finishing and the GS logo in relief. It’s a single-fold deployment clasp with a twin trigger release, so it’s not easy to accidentally pop open. 

The strap is 22mm wide, so swapping it out for another is made easy, plus its length can be adjusted by screws. My only real complaint, as is normally the case with Grand Seiko bracelets, is that there’s no fine adjustment clasp. But there are varying ranges of link sizes that can be taken out, so finding a good fit won’t be too difficult.

On-Wrist Experience

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a unique offering from the Japanese watchmaker for many reasons, one being its wearability. On paper, the dimensions are extremely wearable and don’t get me wrong, this is a comfortable watch, but it is a little larger than some of their other models. 

Much of that is down to the lug-to-lug distance of 50.3mm when you include the male end links. It still wears nicely on my five-and-a-half-inch wrist, but it felt more like a statement timepiece than a real daily beater. I’d recommend that if you want this watch to be your everyday go-to, you’ll need to be an individual with 6.75-inch wrists or more. 

That said, it has a nice low profile, making it feel a touch more compact. It’s the perfect height for a dress watch, as it’ll slip under the cuff of a shirt without issue. But I have to say, with a dial like this, I wouldn’t want to hide the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGH005 under a sleeve. I’ll say it again, but this dial is beautiful. I want to stare at it and have others stare at it, too. 

Price & Availability

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 retails brand new for $9,100 or can be found on the second-hand market for between $5,000 and $7,000. It’s a non-limited edition, so it is currently part of the brand’s permanent collection. If you’re interested in this model, we recommend purchasing a watch of this caliber through an authorized retailer like Exquisite Timepieces.

Conclusion

There’s no putting this any plainer: the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 “White Birch” SLGH005 is a beautiful watch and represents the very best of what this Japanese watchmaker can do. The case’s design language, the exquisite finishing of the dial and the technology incorporated within the high-beat movement is just exceptional and there are very few watches made to this standard available under $10,000.

My favorite feature of the model will come to no one’s surprise. It’s the dial. The intense metallic silver color with its shimmering tree bark effect is breathtaking, and it creates an almost mesmerizing coherent finish with the metal case and bracelet. This really is a watch you deserve to see in person. Sadly, I’m not sure even my writing skills can translate this watch’s immaculate beauty.

There’s a long list of Grand Seiko watches I’ve always wanted to get hands-on with. I’ve been fortunate to tick some of them off my bucket list already, but one that has been sitting close to the top spot for quite some time is the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002.

Why? Because this is one of those watches that looks absolutely breathtaking in pictures. The warm 18-carat rose gold case, and the rich burgundy dial are enough to make your wrists sweat. And then you have the texture of the dial; it’s a display that looks as if it’s almost made of hair with Urushi lacquer creating a fine and unique texture. But is the Grand Seiko SBGK002 as impressive in person? I’m excited to say I finally found out.

A Pre-Baselworld 2019 Launch

There’s never been a shortage of dressy and elegant Grand Seiko watches. Ultimately, the company’s founder Kintaro Hattori set out to create a “perfect” watch, one that was durable, legible, precise and most importantly, beautiful. He certainly succeeded as proved by Grand Seiko’s unquestionable execution in both their mechanics and aesthetics.

Just before Baselworld (RIP) opened its doors in 2019, the Japanese watchmaker launched a collection of four watches that embraced the qualities of a dress watch even further. We’re talking about high-end case materials, thin dimensions, Urushi lacquer dials (a first for GS at this time), and a new movement. The series was known as the Grand Seiko Elegance Collection and featured four references noted as SBGK002, SBGK004, SBGK005, and SBGK006.

The first, and my personal favorite at the time, reference SBGK002, is the very model we’re reviewing today. It features a solid rose gold case and a deep red dial. In contrast, SBGK004 pairs its rose gold case with a black dial, SBGK005 opts for a blue dial and steel housing, and SBGK006 (the only non-limited edition in the line-up) sports a white dial and a yellow gold case. 

All four felt very different from the Grand Seiko watches we’d seen before. Sure, Grand Seiko already had plenty of dress models in their portfolio, but these stood out. It wasn’t just because they used Urushi lacquer for the first time. 

They chose a more refined case with fewer sharp and angular elements, plus a set of dimensions that made them perfectly suited to almost any wrist size. Everything just sounds too good to be true. So, does the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 live up to its reputation?

A Vintage Rose Gold Case

First impressions: The case of the Grand Seiko Elegance SBGK002 watch might be one of the most impressive cases I’ve seen on a GS watch yet. It’s immediately elegant, but the more you stare at it, the more you realize just how complex its construction is.

It has a generously sloped architecture that seems to be made from one single block of 18-carat rose gold. It’s beautifully soft, with round corners and edges and little to no shared elements. For example, while most Grand Seiko cases have a facet on the internal side of the lugs, this model has no boundary separating the case band and lugs. The lugs’ width is also only 19mm, which adds to the design’s 19th-century-inspired aesthetic.

The dimensions of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 add to its dressy personality further. It arrives with a diameter of 39mm and a height of just 12mm. Lug to lug is also just 44mm making this one of the most wearable Grand Seiko watches on the market. As someone with a generally small wrist size compared to the average at five-and-a-half inches, this sits comfortably without fault. 

The top surfaces of the case are finished with the Japanese watchmaker’s famous Zaratsu tin plate polish for a brilliantly dressy, almost mirror-like shine. In contrast, the case sides, which are remarkably slim in their profile, are detailed with satin finishing that runs vertically. The cambered underside has the same Zaratsu polished finish as the top. The crown, also in 18ct rose gold, is gently knurled and embossed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It has a slight counter-sink into the case’s profile.

The case is topped by domed sapphire crystal glass which again elevates its vintage feel and presents an unadorned 18ct rose gold bezel with a slight conical profile. Again, the bezel has a high polish finish. Turning the Grand Seiko SBGK002 over reveals a glimpse into the 9S63 movement within, one protected by a simple 30-meter water-resistant rating.

A Complex Urushi Lacquer Dial 

It’s not often you’ll find a Grand Seiko dial that is anything but mesmerizing. Let’s be honest, this Japanese watchmaker has well and truly mastered the art of dial design. It’s surprising though, that it took until 2019 for the company to use Urushi lacquer on one of their watches. 

The rare technique involves the sap from Urushi, a tree grown around the town of Joboji that lies under Mt. Iwate, the very mountain seen out the windows of Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio. The sap is then turned into a lacquer that hardens, becoming extremely durable with a breathtaking, glossy finish. 

In the case of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch, the lacquer is dyed in a rich burgundy hue and applied carefully to create this intricate, fur-like finish. Grand Seiko calls it their “Mt. Iwate pattern” since it is inspired by the ridgelines of the magnificent mountain. It’s the kind of dial you can stare at forever, getting lost in its complexity. The rich shade of red is also the perfect companion for the rose gold case, with the warmth of both creating a truly luxurious-looking watch.

At first glance, the hardware on the Grand Seiko SBGK002 watch’s dial may appear simple, but it’s anything but. The off-gray hour markers and “GS” letters of the Grand Seiko logo are decorated with a traditional Japanese technique called Maki-e. Done by hand by master Isshu Tamura in his studio in Kanazawa on the west coast of Japan’s main island, it’s a process that combines platinum powder with lacquer, taking great dexterity and patience. Every marker has the same depth and shape, created by applying layer after layer of the lacquer. It gives the numeral and markers a three-dimensional profile for a nice level of legibility. 

In contrast, the hands for the hours, minutes, small seconds, and power reserve indicator are crafted from rose gold and hand-finished using diamond-tipped tools. The hour and minute hands are faceted with satin brushing on the top and polished on the bezels.

I have to applaud Grand Seiko for the perfect symmetry achieved in the placement of the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. It’s not easy to add a power reserve indicator to a dial without the aesthetic feeling cluttered, but it’s been done here perfectly, giving us extra functionality without losing out on any level of elegance.

A Rare Manual-Winding Movement 

It would have been all too easy for Grand Seiko to place one of their well-known and highly regarded automatic movements into the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, but they didn’t, and thank goodness they didn’t. Why? Because this is a vintage-inspired watch that deserves the traditionalism of a manual winding movement.

When the Excellence collection was released, the Caliber 9S63 marked Grand Seiko’s first manual winding movement in six years. They didn’t go easy on themselves either, creating a caliber with a 72-hour power reserve, 33 jewels, a frequency of 28,800vph, and a chronometer-busting accuracy rate of +5 to -3 seconds per day. It’s also been tested and regulated to extremely high standards, tested in six positions in a controlled environment for 12 days.

The movement is nicely finished. It has typical Grand Seiko striping and polished chamfers, and the sapphire crystal glass that protects the caliber is decorated with the company’s logo.

Straps

One aspect of the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch that I wasn’t expecting to love so much was the strap. Not because Grand Seiko is in any way bad at crafting straps; it’s just that I’m usually too infatuated by the case or dial to take much notice. This time, though, things are different. The strap was actually one of the first things I noticed when I took the Grand Seiko SBGK002 out of the box.

More often than not, straps – even those by some of the most famous Swiss watchmakers – have a level of stiffness to them. It’s not a bad thing; they just require some warming up and wear to get them feeling comfortable. 

In the case of the SBGK002, however, the Japanese-made dark brown alligator leather strap has an almost buttery finish to it. It basically melts straight onto the wrist. It feels worn-in already, yet it looks brand new. It’s the best of both worlds and is quite possibly one of the finest leather straps I have experienced. 

It utilizes alligator leather on the upper side and calfskin leather on the underside. There’s monotone stitching, a folded edge, and printing to confirm that the strap is handmade by Grand Seiko. The buckle is 18-carat rose gold with bevelling, polishing, and a satin finish. Some might expect a deployment buckle on a watch of this price, but I actually like the pin buckle in this case. It suits the Grand Seiko Excellence’s classic personality more.

On-Wrist Experience

If you’ve read this far, it’s probably going to come as no surprise that this watch is an absolute pleasure to wear. The 39mm width, 12mm height, and beautifully sloped case make it sit low and unassuming on the arm – and that’s coming from someone with a smaller-than-average wrist at five-and-a-half inches. It’s still going to look the part if your wrist is bigger too. I’d suggest anyone with arms below 8 inches could pull this model off. Any bigger and you might want to check out one of Grand Seiko’s larger timepieces.

Wearability is made all the better by the leather strap. It has this incredible buttery feel that feels as if it’s been broken in, even when you pick it up for the first time. I’m normally more of a metal bracelet kind of wearer, but this Grand Seiko leather strap and the design of the SBGK002 overall, have tempted me to broaden my strap horizons.

Price & Availability

Since its launch in 2019, the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002 watch has been available to order from authorized Grand Seiko retailers like Exquisite Timepieces. It’s a limited edition of just 150 pieces and currently retails for $29,000. It’s not one of GS’s most affordable watches, but when you take into account the level of craftsmanship, insanely detailed dial, and solid gold case, it’s a figure that makes sense. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find second-hand examples of the model for around $17,000.

Conclusion

It’s not often I review a watch and have nothing bad to say. But with the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ SBGK002, I really can’t think of anything I would change. If I had to use one word to describe this model, it would be “luxury”. Everything about the design feels lustrous, glossy and opulent.

The case is finished beautifully, and the combination of the Zaratsu polished case elements with the shiny Urushi lacquer dial is perfect. The warm rose gold and rich burgundy make me feel like royalty, and the dial alone is something I could stare at all day. The dimensions are also well thought-out; it’s compact enough for small wrists like mine and yet still exudes a presence worthy of larger arms.

Finally – and last time, I promise – I need to rave about the leather strap. Normally straps are where most watch brands fall short. It makes sense because most watch wearers don’t give much thought to something that can be easily swapped out. 

In this instance, though, I can’t imagine ever wanting to swap out the ultra-soft and supple alligator leather on the SBGK002. It’s comfortable and attractive and suits the colorway of the dial and case beautifully. All I have left to say on the Grand Seiko Elegance Mechanical ‘Urushi Maki-e’ is: bravo Grand Seiko, bravo.

The Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” watch has been around for a few years, since 2021, to be more exact. But if it just so happens to have slipped past you while scouring the market for an elegant dress watch or a Grand Seiko timepiece, then now is your opportunity to explore it in more detail.

Grand Seiko is a brand synonymous with exquisite dial textures. Some are achieved via cutting-edge technology and state-of-the-art machinery, while others are the handiwork of highly skilled Japanese artisans. The world-renowned watchmaker has an aptitude for capturing the unique interplay between darkness and light that we seldom get to enjoy in other watches within the same price bracket.

Sure, these timepieces are not the most affordable on the market. But they sit under a relatively accessible umbrella for most serious watch aficionados. They are, after all, a level up from Seiko, both companies of which are owned by Seiko Watch Corporation. Those who share an enthusiasm for this brand, however, will agree that Grand Seiko watches sit in a caliber of their own. They are, in more than one sense, “next level”. 

Many of Grand Seiko’s timepieces are inspired by Shinshu’s ephemeral beauty and its majestic snow-dusted Hataka mountains, which reach high into skies of the bluest blue, like the Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari.” The picturesque landscape serves as a backdrop to Grand Seiko’s design studios, especially in the winter—a season with a beauty of its own.

For example, if you’ve ever perused Grand Seiko’s Four Seasons collection, you’ll have gained some perspective on the brand’s range of dial effects. Some are engraved to resemble the three-dimensional profile of a flower petal. Others feature subtle indentations that mimic the look of moving foliage in the breeze. Faint ripples and delicate wave effects are other popular techniques that beautifully capture the natural elements of Japan’s changing seasons.

Recently, Grand Seiko unveiled a new dial technique named Optical Multilayer Coating. This dial-coloring method achieves a captivating display via physical vapor deposition (PVD). Here, nanoscale films are applied to the dial, layer by layer, enabling light to shift across their surfaces, creating different nuances depending on the angle they are viewed. 

The Grand Seiko SBGY007 is also part of the Four Seasons series. Nicknamed “Omiwatari,” its unique surface effect recalls the frozen waters of Lake Suwa, a place rich in Japanese folklore and held in high regard by religious traditions.

History and Inspiration

At Lake Suwa, cackling ice forms a phenomenon across the surface of the famous waters, where legend has it that gods walked upon. Locals believe that once a year, a god descends to travel across this mysterious pathway to the other side of the lake. The guardian of Suwa, named Takeminakata-no-kami, is believed to have left his sanctuary to meet his wife on the opposite bank, where the god becomes reunited with his love once more. 

Those ever lucky enough to witness the natural wonder occurring across the waters of this picturesque location in Japan will agree that it conjures images of a whimsical fantasia. The hot springs below the lake’s frozen surface create pressure ridges and ice patterns that are quite the spectacle for anyone unfamiliar with the sight.

The Case

The stainless steel case of the Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” watch is beautifully hand-finished. In part, the opulent execution of its graceful architecture lends itself to the brand’s “Zaratsu” polishing technique. The company has been employing this case finish for several years, along with the hairline finish technique. The two are a natural match, complimenting one another effortlessly. Rarely is one seen without the other.

The case measures 38.5mm in diameter and sits at a height of 10.2mm on the wrist. Lug-to-lug, the watch measures 43.7mm and offers a water resistance of 30 meters, a standard for most dress watches. One particularly tasteful touch is its rich satin-brushed case sides. 

A hairline polished bevel also features on the outer edge of the shoulders, complete with a polished bezel that frames the dial perfectly. The watch is topped with a strong sapphire crystal glass front, with anti-glare and scratch-resistant properties. It’s the same glass that is used on the back of the watch, providing a glimpse of the movement as it performs.

The Dial

It comes as no surprise that the main talking point of this Grand Seiko watch is its mesmerizing dial. If there is one model with a dial that we can draw some similarities between, it would be the “Snowflake” SBGA211. That watch came equipped with a date window and power reserve indicator but left enthusiasts wondering what the watch would be like in a more simplistic, pared-back form. 

The answer to that came in the form of the Ref. SBGY007 to an extent. Its dial is absent of any complications, donating more space to the three-hand layout and, of course, enabling the wearer to appreciate that meticulous surface finish. Technically, however, the dials are different. 

The fact that the dial of the “Omiwatari” is void of a date aperture surely divides opinions. Some love the feature, and some feel it serves little purpose in a world where date-tracking technology is within arm’s reach. For me, the decision to remove the date was a well-thought-out one. It looks and feels like a purist timepiece, especially with its supermodel thinness and gracefully gliding seconds hand. 

The collectible does a fine job of bridging the gap between modern and classic. The slim baton hour markers, for example, are elegant and conventional. At the same time, the smoothness of the sweeping hand is the result of a complex high-performance mechanical innovation – the Spring Drive movement (more on that later).

The dial is a pale blue color and the hands are razor-sharp and exquisitely polished. Suffice it to say Grand Seiko cuts no corners in the execution of this dial. The needle-fine points of the hands are beautifully faceted, meaning that only the smallest amount of light can create a huge visual impact (no need for luminous coatings here!). 

The watch is available in a white dial version, too. The reference SBGY013  captures mid-winter tones via the same ripple-effect display, handcrafted by Takumi artisans working at Grand Seiko’s ateliers. For me, however, the ice blue shades of the SBGY007 have the edge over the white. 

The Movement 

The Seiko SBGY007 is powered by the Calibre 9R31 – a unique timekeeping technology named the Spring Drive, which took a total of 28 years to master, not to mention 600 prototypes. To simplify things, this innovation blends an automatic movement with an electric Tri-Synchro Regulator, which replaces the escapement found in a mechanical movement. 

What makes the movement so special is its 300 hand-assembled components and the level of precision required in hand-adjusting these components, which all fall within one-hundredth of a millimeter deviation from the original design.

This mechanical beating heart is meticulously engineered, intricately hand assembled, and offers a power reserve of 72 hours. Any timepiece with an ample power supply like this is considered a “weekend-friendly” watch. You could take it off the wrist on a Friday evening after work and come back to it on a Monday morning to find it has kept the perfect time for you. 

In the design of the Spring Drive movement, the Tri-Synchro Regulator controls the speed at which the mainspring unwinds. Thanks to its quartz aspect, the Spring Drive propels the second hand around the dial in a smooth, effortless, gliding motion, as opposed to operating with a “ticking” motion. Understandably, this further adds to the allure of the watch. Additionally, it promises an accuracy of +/-1 seconds per day.

The Strap Options

The only downside to the Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” watch is the lack of strap options available for its 19mm lug width. The most common lug width for a watch is 20mm, making the 19mm options a little harder to come by. That said, I have seen this timepiece paired with a beautiful grey saffiano and grey Epsom strap, as well as a brown leather band and a grey ostrich strap. All look equally as fetching but achieve a somewhat more casual finish on the wrist.

Still, the classic black leather band it comes fitted on certainly manages to achieve a dressy, timeless aesthetic. The color and alligator effect complement any wardrobe. The black embossed alligator leather band secures to the wrist with a classic stainless steel three-fold clasp with a push-button release mechanism and the engraved Seiko name. 

On the Wrist

As aforementioned, the Grand Seiko SBGY007 measures a comfortable diameter and height, constituting a great option for slender wrists. Its unimposing depth enables it to slide effortlessly under the cuff of a work shirt, pairing well with formal or sophisticated attire. 

The model’s smooth hand-applied case polishing and the ergonomic flow of its slender profile are all great dress watch elements. I can imagine that, despite its compact nature, it still delivers all the desirable wrist presence you’d expect of any Grand Seiko watch. You can enjoy this watch every day of the week or reserve it for dressier occasions at the weekend. Either way, the “Omiwatari” is a companion that is easy-going, flexible, and versatile. 

Anyone who has spent some time with a Grand Seiko watch will understand what I mean when I say that the full extent of this watch’s tactile, visceral, and palpable beauty is something that you can only fully appreciate upon handling it. When you observe the way that light hits the surface of the case’s contours and how the dial catches pockets of light depending on the angle you tilt it, you can value its beauty from a holistic point of view. 

Price and Availability 

This is not a limited edition Grand Seiko watch, but it certainly feels like a “rare gem”. For $8,300, you get a high-end case finish, an in-house movement, and an artisan dial inspired by the Japanese brand’s esteemed heritage. For me, the watch is very fairly priced and carries a reputable name that people instantly recognize for its quality, craftsmanship, and authenticity. 

Wrapping Up

The Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari” is a divine union of nature and mythology. But if none of those things resonate with you, it’s still a beautiful, classic dress watch that is abundant in exquisite dial and case finishes.

Like so many of Grand Seiko’s premium watch designs, the “Omiwatari” leverages environmental muses in an unusual way. These timepieces look like no other design on the market, and because of their price point, they offer exceptional value for money.