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Minute repeaters are watches that sound the time in hours, quarter hours, and minutes “on demand” with a pusher or slider on the left side of the case.

These complex, artisanal masterpieces are often regarded as the holiest grail watch of them all by niche aficionados who desire to scale the heights of the haute horology market. Retail prices are often listed with the somewhat chilly message, “Upon request.”

So, repeat after me: there is no such thing as a “cheap” mechanical minute repeater watch!

Oxymorons aside, some true minute repeaters are “cheaper” than others. So I will focus on models that are only in the low six figures (less than 500K) as opposed to seven (which many are!).

But there is hope for those with skinnier wallets who still want chimes without dishing out luxury condo money. There are chiming watches that announce only hours as they pass (sonnerie au passage).

Others are “part-time” repeaters that sound off hours and quarter hours only. Better deals can be found in the secondary  and pre-owned markets for true minute repeaters. And, of course, there’s always quartz (more on that later).

First, a little history and basic information.

A Brief Guide to Minute Repeaters

In the “Dark Ages” (heh), people often had to fumble in the dark to do anything, including telling time. Same goes for the visually impaired in any age.

So clocks, and eventually watches, that could mark the passage of time with peals of bells or chimes of gongs became highly valued.

English watchmaker Edward Barlow introduced the first minute repeater mechanism for a clock in 1676. Daniel Quare followed a short time later with the first patented repeater mechanism for a watch in 1687.

Early repeater mechanisms chimed hours and quarter hours only. As they evolved, accuracy improved with the emergence of half-quarter, 5-minute, and minute repeater designs. There were also “dumb” repeaters that vibrated only.

In the late 18^th century, the “Father of Modern Watchmaking” himself, Abraham-Louis Breguet, introduced gongs to replace bells, which allowed for thinner cases.

He followed up in the early 19^th century with redesigned mechanisms that produced more accurate and reliable repeaters that still form the basis for today’s modern versions.

Minute repeaters use two hammers that, when triggered by the user, strike metal rings (gongs) that produce varying tones.

Hours are typically high tones, quarter hours pairs of high and low tones, and minutes low tones, but this may vary. Here’s a cool video that demonstrates the variable tones produced by three different famous brand minute repeaters.

Tones are amplified and modulated in varying degrees by the case material. A minute repeater made with the same material and in the exact same manner by the same watchmaker may nonetheless differ in clarity and purity of tone than a sibling’s.

The only way to truly judge a minute repeater is to hold it in your hands, listen to its tones, and feel the action of its pusher or slider.

Minute repeaters are ultra-complicated, difficult and expensive to produce, and rely on a dizzying arrangement of, not one, but two mainsprings, along with a myriad of racks, snails (cams), hammers, gongs and governors. And screws. Lots of them.

Believe me, you do not want me to try to explain how all those fit together and work! Here’s a basic explanation and also a deeper well of information for those who really want to dive in.

Top 10 “Cheap” Minute Repeater Watches

I’ll be presenting “cheap” minute repeaters under 500K , so we’ll start with the most expensive one on the list and count down to the least expensive.

10. A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. ref. 147.025F

While typical minute repeaters are quarter hour, the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk is the first to use decimals (10 minutes) combined with a jumping hours and minutes function.

The platinum case is 44mm in diameter, and in addition to jumping hours and minutes windows, the watch has a large analog seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 12.

The dial is rhodié-colored and solid silver. The L043.5 movement is manually wound, with 18,000 vph (2.4 Hz), and a 36 hour power reserve.

It is paired with a black alligator strap with a platinum deployant buckle. Last known retail $467,700, pre-owned $280,000-320,000.

9. Patek Philippe Minute Repeater Grand Complications Cathedral Gong, ref. 5178G

This white gold 40mm case diameter Patek Philippe minute repeater was introduced at Baselworld 2017 alongside its nearly identical twin, the 38mm ref. 5078G.

The 40mm version was needed to accommodate cathedral gongs, which are twice long as standard ones and produce richer tones with more reverberation.

This is a simple, but elegant watch with traditional Breguet handset and numerals, railroad minutes track, seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, and a cream, grand-feu enamel dial.

A transparent sapphire caseback shows off the stunning details and finishing of the Calibre R 27m with its 2 gongs, black polished hammers, anglage, and guilloché micro-rotor, all done by hand.

The brown, alligator strap completes the classical, dressy look. This is a watch that has gained value: retail  in 2017 $423,780, pre-owned prices now in the 500K range.

8. H. Moser & Cie Minute Repeater Tourbillon Steel Blue Fumé Enamel Dial, ref. 6905-1200

With tourbillons becoming more numerous and accessible, minute repeaters have gained even more prestige as the rarest and grandest  of all complications.

This H. Moser & Cie features both a minute repeater and a tourbillon for the best of both worlds. It starts with the distinctive Streamliner concept shaped 42mm stainless steel case and matching integrated bracelet.

The encircling gongs, hammers,  handset, and flying tourbillon  stand out in sharp relief against the textured, “Grand Feu” blue enamel dial.

The movement is the manually wound Caliber HMC 905 and has an impressive power reserve of 90 hours. Retail $319,500, pre-owned undetermined.

7. Breguet Classique Grand Complication Répétition Minute Repeater, ref. 737BB

Since the “Father of Modern Watchmaking” Abraham Louis-Breguet played such a prominent role in the story of minute repeaters, it’s only fitting we should have one of his namesake watches on the list.

The Classique 7637BB has a 42mm diameter white gold case and blued Breguet hours and minutes hand set. The silver dial’s various guilloché patterns and concentrically brushed periphery form the perfect backdrop for the Roman numeral hour indices, 24-hour subdial at 3 o’clock, and power reserve indicator at 9.

The manual wind 567.2 movement has 40 hours of power reserve, and the watch is paired with a black alligator strap. Retail $305,900, pre-owned $100,000-200,000.

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater, ref. Q5011410

Perhaps the most striking feature of the limited edition (100 pieces), 44mm 18K yellow gold JLC Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater is its dial.

There is a central minutes hand paired with a large hours subdial at 12 o’clock and a smaller seconds subdial at 6.

A partially-truncated subdial power at 8 indicates power reserve, another one at 4 shows barrel torque, and through a skeletonized portion of that dial, the hammers are shown striking the gongs.

It’s a busy dial, but with the ample negative space and the use of guilloche, it still comes across as clean and balanced.

The JLC 947R movement has an amazing 14 day power reserve, and it comes with a black crocodile strap. Retail $221,000, pre-owned and new, unused $95,000-170,000.

5. Blancpain Villeret Répétition Minutes, re. 6635 3642 55B

Many minute repeaters tend to be on the thicker side, but the Blancpain Villeret’s 40mm 18K rose gold case measures in at only 9.9 mm.

It has traditional styling such as rose gold-tone leaf-style hands and Roman numeral hour markers. With its minimal space script and branding, the opaline dial is remarkably clean and unassuming; the watch lets the chimes do all the singing.

The Caliber 25 automatic movement has 40 hours of power reserve, and the watch is water resistant to 100 feet (more than most minute repeaters), both of which make it a suitable choice for everyday wear.

The strap is brown alligator leather and has a deployant clasp. Retail $223,200, pre-owned, $100,000-$200,000.

4. Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Minute Repeater, ref. J011033202

This 18K rose gold Jaquet Droz minute repeater is a limited edition (28 pieces) model that combines old world pocket watch charm with modern design cues for a refreshing and captivating package.

The dial is ivory Grand Feu enameled and has an avant-garde twist—Roman numeral hour indices and rose gold hours and minutes hands are set within a smaller subdial at 12 o’clock, while the seconds are displayed in a larger subdial at 6, with the two slightly overlapping.

There is also an artsy treble cleft flourish, Jacquet Droz branding and logo, and classical Latin script indicating the numbered piece.

Its automatic movement is displayed through the sapphire caseback, and a black alligator strap completes the classy package. Retail $203,000, pre-owned $100,000 range.

3. Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, ref. 103669

When it comes to making the world’s thinnest watch, Bulgari takes a backseat to—almost—no one. But when it comes to the category of minute repeaters, Bulgari takes the “most slender” prize with its svelte 3.12mm Octo Finissimo ref. 103669.

The 40mm diameter sandblasted titanium case has the bold lines and octagonal shape we’ve come to expect from Bulgari. About the only “classical” feature you’ll see on this watch is the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock on the matte blue dial.

The unique cutout indices not only allow a teasing glimpse at the beautiful, manual wind BVL362, but also the sound of the chimes to pass through with more amplification. It comes on a matching blue FKM rubber with faux fabric finish. Retail $190,000, pre-owned $90,000-100,000.

2. IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater, ref. IW544907

International Watch Company (IWC) has quietly produced and improved its historically significant and well-crafted Portugieser line since 1939.

The Portugieser Minute Repeater’s case is 18K rose gold with a 44mm case diameter, and its simple, silver dial has Arabic numeral indices and a seconds subdial at 6 o’clock.

The Caliber 98950 is manual wind and has a beautiful finish, but, unlike most other minute repeaters, it is concealed beneath a solid caseback, a cost shaving measure.

The brown alligator leather strap completes the clean, classy look of this “budget” piece which comes in at the most affordable price point of any mechanical options in the list: Retail $89,100, pre-owned $50,000 range.

1. Citizen Eco-Drive G900 series Minute Repeater—Quartz, (many references)

If you’re willing to leave the mechanical beauty and heritage behind and go the quartz route, take a look at pre-owned Citizen Minute Repeaters.

Not only can you get a pre-owned minute repeater for a few hundred bucks, but the Caliber G900 quartz movement gives  a perpetual calendar, chronograph, and several other complications as well.

You don’t get the pure sound of mechanical gongs, but it still gets the job done (check it out there). Citizen has discontinued this watch, but they still display their last known reference on their website, the titanium  “Grand Complication” ref. BZ0016-50E, listed at $1,395.

That particular one is hard to find on the secondary market, but there are a lot of earlier, preowned references out there that are in the $500 +/- range.

Conclusion

Without a doubt, mechanical minute repeaters are uber-expensive and the most anachronistic of all watches, but they are still a wonder on the wrist and remain the pinnacle of haute horology. I’ll most likely never own one, but I enjoyed learning and writing about them, and of course, listening to the music.

When people think of products made in China, the word “cheap” often comes to mind… sometimes fairly, sometimes not. It’s true that China has long been known for its fast, large-scale manufacturing.

But in recent years, the country has been carefully rewriting that narrative, especially in the world of watchmaking.

Most of us know China as a global leader in technology, design, and innovation. They’re miles ahead from the rest of us, which means they can mass-produce a smartwatch for under $50 and at the same time, handcraft a mechanical masterpiece that rivals even some of the biggest known Swiss icons.

Yes, you’ll always find low-cost options on the market but if you look hard enough, you can also find several Chinese made timepieces that are beautifully engineered, created with high levels of precision, creativity, and surprising levels of luxury.

In this blog, we’re looking at 20 China brand watches that prove this, from smaller microbrands to larger watchmakers you might have already heard of.

Are Chinese Watches Any Good?

Like most things, it really comes down to what you’re looking at. The reality is, there are plenty of watches floating around the internet that, to put it gently, aren’t all that great and they’re often made in China. I’m talking about those watches that are so cheap, they almost feel too good to be true. Which is often the case.

They’re typically made from low-grade materials, powered by movements that barely function and more often than not, feature designs that are just knockoffs of bigger-name brands. And look, no shame if you’ve ever wanted something that looks like a Rolex Day-Date without the painful price tag.

I can’t afford a Rolex either. But in my opinion, you’re much better off choosing a watch that’s actually a watch. One that can keep the time, handle more than a few hours of daily wear and actually comes from people who genuinely care about what they’re making.

Because the truth is, while some Chinese watches are clearly made to be sold fast and forgotten faster, there’s also a growing number that are designed with real passion.

The brands listed below are doing exactly that, making watches that are stylish, functional, and built with surprising levels of care.

They’re proof that Chinese watchmaking isn’t just about affordability, but about creativity, quality and craftsmanship. These are the Chinese made watches worth your time, attention and wrist real estate.

The Best China Brand Watches

With all that in mind, let’s get into it. Below are 20 of the best China brand watches that are doing it right. Some you might have heard of already, while others will no doubt be completely new to you. And let’s be honest, there’s nothing better than finding a new hidden gem in the world of watches.

Addiesdive

If you’re looking for an affordable dive watch, then Addiesdive is a Chinese watchmaker worth knowing. Despite having shockingly low retail prices, they’ve built a solid reputation for creating rugged, well-specced timepieces that punch well above their price point.

Many of the designs feel familiar, with several reminding me of classic Seiko dive watches and some even named after iconic Seiko nicknames like “Monster” and “Turtle”. And to their credit, they don’t just copy the look but come surprisingly close in feel too.

Most Addiesdive watches are powered by reliable Japanese automatic movements like the NH35A and are fitted with sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels, and 316L stainless steel cases, features you’d normally expect from watches costing much more.

Water resistance ranges from 200 meters to 1000 meters, making them perfectly capable for casual diving and daily wear alike. The one downside that many report on is the metal bracelets, so that’s something to keep in mind. But thankfully, it’s an easy part of the watch to swap out.

Prices start from $42.99

Atelier Wen

So, from surprisingly affordable to a little more elevated, we now have Atelier Wen. Founded by two young entrepreneurs with roots in both French and Chinese culture, this company wanted to create a brand that celebrated Chinese craftsmanship not as a cost-saving shortcut, but as a point of pride.

The name itself says it all, Atelier (French for workshop) and Wén (文, Chinese for culture), is a nod to the fusion of design, heritage, and artistry that defines each timepiece.

While many brands shy away from showcasing their Chinese production, Atelier Wen leans all the way in, collaborating with local artisans and proudly spotlighting traditional techniques like hand-engraved guilloché dials and intricate case finishing.

Their best-known model, the Perception, has become a cult favorite, thanks to its beautifully executed integrated bracelet design and genuinely hand-crafted details, yet it still clocks in under $4,000.

Prices start from $3,320

Behrens

Now, stepping fully into the world of modern innovation, we have Behrens. Founded in 2012 in Shenzhen, a city quickly becoming China’s horological hotspot, Behrens is one of the most exciting names in independent watchmaking today.

This isn’t about homages or minimal tweaks on classic designs. Instead, Behrens builds its own lane entirely, creating futuristic, sculptural timepieces that rethink how time can be displayed.

The brand was started by Lin Bingqiang and is powered by a young, forward-thinking team of engineers and watchmakers who love pushing boundaries.

Think satellite displays, orbital indicators, and architectural dial layouts that look more like kinetic art than traditional watches. Despite the avant-garde styling, the technical chops are real.

Behrens has in-house R&D, production capabilities, and even earned a GPHG nomination in 2020 which is no small feat for a relatively young brand.

Prices start from $1,395

Benyar

Another Chinese watchmaker that sharply avoids any steep price tag is Benyar. Known for its ultra-affordable timepieces that don’t skimp on design, Benyar has carved out a niche for offering watches that look far more premium than their price suggests.

Whether you’re into classic chronographs, sporty divers, or sleek dress watches, there’s likely a Benyar model that’ll catch your eye.

Founded with a love for traditional watchmaking and a focus on accessible luxury, Benyar blends modern design with respectable specs like stainless steel cases, automatic movements (or quartz in some models), and reliable build quality.

The Benyar 5177, for example, is a personal favourite of mine. It sports a bold 41mm case, a 50 meter water resistance rating, and a scratch-resistant hardlex crystal.

Prices start from $34.90

Boderry

Guided by the motto “Be Distinctive. Be Limitless,” Boderry is a relatively new Chinese brand that has quickly gained a reputation for making high-quality, feature-packed watches that again impress with low price points.

Makes sense, since the company’s goal was to create affordable timepieces that look sharp, perform reliably, and give wearers a sense of identity.

I’ve heard great things about the Boderry Voyager, a model that many enthusiasts argue is the best sub-$100 automatic field watch on the market.

It features a lightweight but durable titanium case, sapphire crystal, and the ever-trusty Seiko NH35A automatic movement.

Prices start from $79

Celadon

Shifting gears once again, we come to Celadon, a brand that doesn’t just embrace its Chinese heritage but elevates it. Founded in 2012, Celadon is unapologetically proud to stamp “Made in China” on its watches, and for good reason.

These aren’t your run-of-the-mill, mass-produced pieces. This is haute horlogerie, reimagined through the lens of Chinese artistry and history.

Led by Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee, Celadon HH (Haute Horlogerie) is part of a larger mission to restore pride in Chinese watchmaking.

Every model is a deeply considered work of art, often featuring cloisonné dials, hand-engraved case backs, and traditional Chinese motifs.

You’ll even find custom mechanical movements developed with master watchmakers like Lin Yong Hua. These watches are easily some of the most beautiful timepieces I’ve ever seen.

Prices start from $3,900

CIGA

CIGA Design is another Chinese watchmaker where they’ve cleverly combined avant-garde artistry with prices that feel almost too good to be true.

And it’s a brand that isn’t just respected in China but has become an international award magnet, winning nine Red Dot Design Awards (including two “Best of the Best” titles), two iF Gold Awards, and even the prestigious GPHG Challenge Prize.

Probably their most iconic piece so far is the CIGA Blue Planet, a domed, rotating miniature Earth that tells time with a compass rose and challenges everything you thought a watch could be.

It’s bold, poetic, and genuinely moving, intended to evoke the “overview effect” astronauts describe when seeing our planet from space.

Prices start from €129

Lin Yong Hua

One of China’s most gifted independent watchmakers, Lin Yong Hua began his horological journey in 1991 at just 18 years old, working in quartz production.

Over the next two decades, his fascination with high-complication mechanical watches led him to master some of the most complex movements in the craft like tourbillons, minute repeaters, jump hours, and perpetual calendars.

So in 2009, Lin opened his own restoration workshop in Shenzhen, eventually launching his independent brand LYH Watches in 2016.

His first creation, the Vinyl Record, was a poetic tribute to the analog music era, fitting for a man who sees art and mechanics as inseparable.

To this day, LYH’s work blends technical virtuosity with deeply personal artistic vision whether it’s the LYH-6 or his stunning mother-of-pearl dials.

Prices start from HKD $27,800

Neo Kung

Neo Kung may be a new name in independent watchmaking, but his debut piece, the Orienta, speaks with the depth and confidence of a seasoned artist.

Formerly the Chief Product Officer at both Seagull and Shanghai Watch, two of China’s most storied brands (that are coming up shortly) Neo has spent years immersed in the mechanics and meaning of horology.

At first glance, the Orienta feels like a time capsule with its sleek platinum case, hand-finished chronograph dial and vintage soul. But it’s so much more than that.

Its movement, the Cal. NK-01, traces its roots to the Venus 175, the same architecture that formed the foundation of China’s first chronograph six decades ago. It’s a beautiful watch with an equally beautiful story behind it.

Prices start from $40,000

Octopus Kraken

Octopus Kraken is a brand born from a deep love of mechanical timekeeping and a passion for design. Since 2017, the team behind Octopus has specialized in crafting vintage and dive-inspired timepieces, watches that evoke adventure, heritage, and the romance of flight and the sea.

They focus mainly on using high-quality materials like CuSn8 bronze, titanium, and stainless steel, paired with components like Swiss Super-LumiNova, domed sapphire crystals, and reliable automatic movements.

One of my personal favorites is the Octopus Kraken OCT005 Retro Bronze. Made from solid CuSn8 bronze, it ages gracefully with a unique patina, making every piece one of a kind.

With its domed crystal and pilot-style charm, it reminds me of the Oris Big Crown but at under $300, it offers a level of value rarely seen in automatic watches, let alone bronze ones.

Prices start from $190

Pagani

Pagani Design is refreshingly upfront about what they do: crafting stylish watches inspired by the big names in luxury horology.

Established in Guangzhou in 2012, this independent brand focuses on delivering high-quality timepieces that echo the iconic aesthetics of brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet but at a fraction of the price.

There are watches that will appeal to adventure-seekers as well as sophisticated jet-setters and everything in between, just so long as you want the look and feel of luxury without the luxury price tag.

Their watches bring precision and passion to wrists worldwide, making stylish, accessible horology a reality. It’s a brand unafraid to embrace homage, with a clear focus on quality and value.

Prices start from $80

Proxima

If you’re into well-built tool watches with a strong sense of identity, Proxima is a brand worth knowing. Founded in 2016, this independent Chinese watchmaker has carved out a loyal following by combining serious materials, reliable mechanical movements, and a direct, no-fluff approach to watchmaking.

From day one, Proxima focused on crafting timepieces that felt purposeful, drawing from the DNA of iconic dive watches like the Seiko 62MAS and Marine Master, but never just copying them outright.

They keep production small and hands-on, using premium calibres like SW200 and NH35 automatic movements, double-domed sapphire crystals, and high-grade materials including CuSn8 bronze, Grade 5 titanium, and marine-grade stainless steel. Even their black cases use advanced IPS coating rather than traditional PVD for better durability.

Prices start from $99

Qin Gan

Independent Chinese watchmaker Qin Gan is another brand redefining what “Made in China” really means in the world of haute horlogerie.

Based in Chongqing, Qin’s journey began in his father’s repair shop, where he developed a hands-on love for mechanical watchmaking.

After years working as both a designer and a restorer, most notably for Poly Hong Kong, he launched his first fully hand-finished watch in 2014.

But it was the release of the Pastorale in 2021 that truly put him on the map. Now in its second generation, the Pastorale II is a refined, gold-cased dress watch that highlights Qin’s obsessive attention to detail.

Every component, from the enamel-filled dial and heat-blued hands to the meticulously beveled bridges of the in-house caliber 1810, is finished by hand in his workshop. He produces just 15 pieces per year, making each one a rare reflection of his craft.

Price starts from $46,000

San Martin

San Martin may have started out building homage watches, but it has quickly earned a reputation as one of China’s most respected value-driven microbrands.

Founded in 2016 by Mr. Liao JiaMing, a veteran and watch enthusiast, San Martin’s early days were hands-on and gritty, learning from factory floors, experimenting with bronze dive cases, and building everything from scratch.

But what that means, is you now have a Chinese watch brand that understands watchmaking from the inside out.

Now headquartered in Dongguan, close to many of China’s best manufacturing hubs, San Martin has grown into a company known for original designs, robust construction, and exceptional finishing, often punching far above its price point.

Their watches use proven movements like the Seiko NH34 GMT, and feature enthusiast-friendly touches like toolless micro-adjust clasps and high-spec lume.

Prices start from $138

Seagull

Probably the best-known Chinese watchmaker out there, Seagull is a name most watch enthusiasts are already familiar with, and for good reason. 

Founded in 1955 as part of a government initiative to jumpstart China’s domestic watchmaking industry, Seagull has since grown into the world’s largest producer of mechanical movements, reportedly responsible for around 25% of global output.

Based in Tianjin, Seagull doesn’t just power hundreds of other microbrands; it also produces watches under its own name, from tourbillons to dive watches to pilot’s instruments and classic dress pieces.

But none are more revered than the Seagull 1963. Originally developed for the Chinese Air Force and powered by the ST19 movement (based on the Venus 175 column-wheel chronograph), the 1963 offers a slice of vintage military charm with real horological significance.

Prices start from $109

Seestern

Seestern is a Chinese microbrand that’s built a reputation for crafting high-quality homage dive watches, some so faithful to their inspirations, it’s hard not to do a double take.

The brand operates under Sugess, a company with over a decade of experience in mechanical watchmaking, particularly in complications like chronographs and tourbillons. Seestern, however, represents their focused plunge into the world of dive watches.

At the helm is Coco, a watchmaker and enthusiast with deep industry experience. While Seestern doesn’t operate as a factory, its small-scale, microbrand status allows for more meticulous attention to detail during assembly, something often lost in mass production.

This approach helps deliver impressive value for money. Their now-iconic 300T model is perhaps the boldest homage in their catalog, taking obvious cues from the classic Doxa diver.

Prices start from $179 

Steeldive

Steeldive is a relatively young brand, but one that’s quickly made a name for itself in the world of affordable dive watch homages.

Founded in 2018, Steeldive initially gained attention by producing watches for other companies but soon pivoted to launching its own line, focusing on retro-inspired dive watches with serious bang for buck.

Powered almost exclusively by reliable Seiko NH35 movements, Steeldive’s pieces often channel iconic models from brands like Seiko, Blancpain, and Rolex, with designs that lean heavily into vintage military and tool watch territory.

Their “50-Fathoms” model, for example, isn’t trying to hide its inspiration and instead is a clear nod to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, right down to the bezel and dial layout.

Prices start from $89

Sugess

Sugess is the parent company behind Seestern, and while Seestern focuses on dive and homage watches, Sugess leans into technical watchmaking, especially complications like chronographs and tourbillons.

They’re best known for affordable ST19 chronograph watches, using a respected column-wheel movement derived from the Swiss Venus 175.

But their boldest and most impressive move, in my option, is their Tourbillon Master collection. Yes, this really is a fully functioning mechanical tourbillon watch for under $500.Built around the Chinese-made Seagull ST8230 calibre, it offers what used to be an ultra-luxury complication at a fraction of the price. That alone makes them one of the most fascinating players in Chinese watchmaking today.

Prices start from $229

Tan Zehua

Tan Zehua is one of China’s most accomplished independent watchmakers and a full member of the prestigious AHCI since 2019.

Trained under his father in the 1960s and later running his own workshop, Tan spent decades restoring antique timepieces before turning to full-scale independent watchmaking.

His focus is pure horological craft, so hand-built movements, traditional finishing, and an obsession with escapement innovation.

He has developed four in-house calibres, including a 10-day movement and the impressive Work No. 3, featuring a constant-force mechanism via a third barrel.

But probably his most exciting development is the Di-Axial escapement, a next-gen take on George Daniels’ Co-Axial, designed for lower friction and no lubrication. Sadly, Tan’s watches are ultra-limited so they’re not easy to obtain, but it’s definitely worth trying.

Prices start from HKD $100,000

Thorn

Finally, we arrive at the last of today’s featured Chinese watch brands: Thorn. A lesser-known name even within microbrand circles, Thorn quietly produces handsome, classically styled mechanical watches powered by the reliable Japanese NH35 movement.

While their designs may echo vintage greats, the value proposition is all their own with high-spec builds, tasteful finishing, and unbeatable pricing.

Though still relatively niche, Thorn takes its mission seriously, to create high-quality, low-cost mechanical watches that punch well above their weight.

Every piece is crafted with an attention to detail that aims to win over discerning collectors, not just casual buyers. If you’re after an accessible daily mechanical that delivers sharp looks without cutting corners, Thorn is worth a closer look.

Prices start from $69

Conclusion

It’s clear the world of watchmaking is no longer the exclusive playground of Switzerland. From the artistic mastery of Celadon to the futuristic engineering of Behrens, Chinese watchmakers are proving they have both the skill and the soul to compete on a global stage.

Yes, not every brand hits the bullseye every time, but many are creating genuinely remarkable timepieces that combine craftsmanship, innovation, and value in ways few others can.

Even the more affordable homage brands deserve credit for delivering solid watches to everyday enthusiasts. Hopefully we’ve proved that China’s growing watch scene offers something for everyone, no matter the tastes of your wrist.

Introduction

The tank-style watch. Now, when anyone mentions tank watches, my mind always goes to the iconic design from Louis Cartier, characterized by the immaculate square case that truly changed the game.

With a tight focus on elegance and precision, Cartier opened the door for a lot of different brands to try the formula out for themselves, leading to an entire sub-genre of watches that most refer to as tank-style or tank-inspired pieces. 

What exactly is a tank-style watch? 

Most Tank watches are defined by a rectangular or square case that perfectly encapsulates everything that they are about. The vertical sidebars on the case resemble tank treads, and they provide the watch with a very structured look that, surprisingly enough, features a lot more curvature than you would expect.

Cartier Tanks always include Roman numerals, and most tank-style watches do as well, though you will occasionally come across one every now and then that uses standard Arabic numbers.

I, for one, will always gravitate toward those that keep it traditional and follow the Cartier design to a tee because, in my opinion, the Roman numerals are what define the watch, other than the case itself, of course.

All in all, tank-style watches are some of the most radiant pieces on the market, carrying with them a rich history and unique presence. It’s no wonder they are a fan favorite.

That’s why today, we will be taking a closer look at the top tank-style watches on the market, exploring what makes them great and hopefully providing you with a lot more clarity on which piece best suits you. 

Tank Louis Cartier Watch

Obviously, we had to begin the list with the watch that started it all. In 1917, a legend was born. With its reserved rectangular appeal and iconic blue cabochon crown, this watch set the standard for countless future pieces and provided the legendary framework for what would be one of Cartier’s most successful designs.

The Tank Louis Cartier of today remains the most faithful variant of the original design, and it is one of the most widely appreciated pieces among the fan base.

There’s simply no going wrong with this iconic masterpiece. The design remains largely unchanged today, and it has been equipped with all the modern innovations that ensure flawless performance. 

The Tank Louis Cartier Watch costs $13,500.

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver

Moving on to the non-Cartier tank-style watches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is probably the second most iconic choice for an authentic, rectangular watch.

The sleek, silvery appeal will undoubtedly draw you in, and after that, you will be too transfixed on the bottom right sub-dial to get distracted by anything else.

This watch carries with it a classy swagger that is quite difficult to explain. It’s a luxury staple through and through (most everything from Jaeger is), but it’s so subtle that it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly where to place it.

The clearest description I can give is that the Tank heavily inspires it and builds upon that foundation to give its wearers something unique. 

The Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver costs $10,900. 

IWC Da Vinci Chronograph

IWC’s best take on the tank-style would have to go to the Da Vinci Chronograph. There’s a lot to unpack here. First of all, two sub-dials reside on the top and bottom of the dial, and being a big sub-dial guy myself, I was immediately drawn to everything this piece was about.

The indices are a lot and depending on how you feel about that, it could be a make-or-break scenario. Regardless, however, you can’t deny that this piece captures a very unique voice that is perhaps unmatched.

For starters, the white gold established a clear sense of luxury, and the automatic IWC Caliber 89360 is one of the most elegant movements that could have accompanied a watch of this style. 

The IWC Da Vinci Chronograph costs $10,500. 

Cartier Tank Americaine

Circling back to Cartier, the Tank Americaine is arguably the most coveted Tank variant today. Its slim dimensions and shiny appeal transfix the wearer at every turn, not to mention the iconic curves that have single-handedly elevated the value of this watch simply by how the lugs seamlessly blend into the bare edges of the bracelets.

The dial is slimmer as well, with the iconic Roman numerals set within a tighter space, allowing the design to be a little more creative in presenting them appealingly.

They orbit around the elegant sky-blue hands, creating a truly magical experience. This watch is and will forever be a timeless staple of true luxury watches at their finest. 

The Cartier Tank Americaine costs $6,250. 

Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase

The German watchmakers over at Glashutte really went all out to provide a retro, modernized piece that also simultaneously checks all the boxes for vintage fans. What I mean is that upon first glance, you’ll notice the modernized moonphase feature, which is obviously the key theme of the design.

However, this watch also holds onto a lot of history, particularly in how it handles its sub-dials. The indices appear to mimic a vintage aesthetic as well, and the slim hands provide a slick little extra layer of glorious detail, especially when you’re looking at the entire watch as a whole and aren’t focusing on one exact feature.

The square dial is also fairly curvy, which I know some of you go absolutely crazy for. Overall, this piece could be the perfect fit, capturing the essence of two different times, all on a gorgeous palette. 

The Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase costs $5,000.

Bulova 96B107

You can’t go wrong with the basics. Bulova has captured just the right amount of the tank style with their 96B107, without overplaying their hand. The simple rectangular casing is quite spacious, with not a lot of features on the dial itself, instilling a calm, relaxed look that will draw many of you in.

The Roman numerals are arguably the most notable feature, and, in my opinion, they look just as good as the Cartier design that inspired them, if not even better.

Something about them is just so alluring, perhaps it’s the silver on silver coloring or the fact that they are elevated to provide the dial with a little more texture. Regardless, this is a piece that you should seriously consider, and when looking at the price, you might even be tempted to pull the trigger. 

The Bulova 96B107 costs $221.

Seiko SUP896 

Another design rooted in utmost simplicity, the Seiko SUP896 holds quite an iconic heritage, as chances are you have probably heard of this watch in some form or fashion.

It’s carved a very well-earned reputation for itself as being an extremely simple, affordable tank-style watch that wastes no time bringing out the best features.

The simple dial has no numerals but still manages to capture an elegant flair, not distracting from the gold markers and hands that have been finished in a gold champagne color, which, in my opinion, complements the design quite well.

It’s powered by a V115 quartz movement that uses a power cell to recharge, essentially making it maintenance-free. 

The Seiko SUP896 costs $215.

Cartier Santos Dumont SS Black Lacquer 

The mission with the Santos was to build off of the original tank design, but this time, make the dial even more square. They obviously succeeded. This particular edition comes in a jet-black dial with a prestigious-looking detail.

As with any Cartier, the Roman numerals steal the show, but what makes this piece so special is the unique layering of the background pattern, which provides the watch with many subtle details that may be easy to miss upon first glance.

I really like how smooth the metal is as well, and the flatness of the dial will either greatly appeal to you, or it will turn you away. Regardless, this watch is a masterpiece and deserves to be praised for its radiating beauty. 

The Cartier Santos Dumont SS Black Lacquer costs $8,350. 

Citizen BH1678-56E

The grand allure of this Citizen will undoubtedly attract those of you who want a taste of the lavish lifestyle but don’t necessarily want to spend an arm and a leg.

The silver and gold hue is attractive, but I think what really makes this piece stand out is the black dial that serves as a target for the eyes, and with detail that will not be noticed upon first glance, your eyes will most definitely linger on the center of this piece for much longer than you would expect.

On the inside, Japanese quartz swiftly powers the entire design, which contributes to the smaller price. I always appreciate it when a watch focuses on simpler elements to reduce the price while ensuring that the quality of the piece as a whole is not compromised. The Citizen BH1678-56E definitely adheres to that ideology. 

The Citizen BH1678-56E costs $190. 

Hamilton H13519711

Perhaps the most Cartier-like piece that isn’t made by Cartier themselves, this Hamilton could most likely pass as one of the Tanks in the Cartier lineup, and no one would be able to tell.

The white dial features the large, back Roman numerals, which, as you know by now, might as well be a trademark for the Cartier legacy, and three blue hands that are as thin as paper.

Sound familiar? The rectangular curve of the case provides an elegant outer shell to house this masterpiece, and because of the virtually flawless Swiss engineering, the inside movement is mechanically hand-wound, as the Swiss caliber is simply too grand not to show off. 

The Hamilton H13519711 costs $995. 

Conclusion

The Tank will go down as one of the greatest watches of all time, as its massive success has allowed watch brands to get more creative with their approach and create new designs that push the limit of what’s capable.

A lot of what you love today can be directly connected back to the first Tank, so it’s important that we remember how far we’ve come and how much more room there is to grow.

Cartier has truly inspired the masses, and it’s a beautiful testimony to their brilliance that other brands have fought to vividly recreate their timeless design while adding in unique elements.

The Tank has fostered so much creativity in the past, and as the watch world continues to evolve, I can only dream of what’s next for these masterminds.