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Time To Shine: 20 of the Best Glow in the Dark Watches

Charlotte H

October 25, 2025

It doesn’t matter who you are, humans are hardwired to be drawn to things that shine. Maybe it’s a diamond, a freshly polished car, or maybe if you’re like us, it’s the satisfying glow of a luminous watch dial lighting up the darkness.

Sure, watches can get playful with quirky complications or over-the-top designs but most of the time, these gimmicks are just for show. But glow-in-the-dark dials are the perfect meeting point where fun meets function.

We’re not just talking about a bit of lume on the hands and hour markers, we mean full lume dials that radiate light like a miniature flashlight strapped to your wrist.

They look cool, they’re surprisingly practical, and they make checking the time in the middle of the night feel like a tiny adventure. So if you’re ready to embrace your inner moth, here are 20 of the brightest, boldest, and best glow in the dark watches out there.

A Quick History on Lume Watches

Before glow in the dark watch dials became a cool feature on modern watches, luminescence had a very practical origin. In the early 20th century, especially during World War I, soldiers needed to tell the time quickly and clearly in low light.

The solution was luminous paint. But unfortunately, the first iteration of lume used radium, a highly radioactive substance that although did its job by glowing brightly came with serious health risks.

Radium was applied by factory workers, many of them women, who were instructed to shape their paint brushes with their lips, a practice that led to devastating cases of radiation poisoning.

Known today as the “Radium Girls,” their tragic story helped bring about critical workplace safety reforms and the eventual ban of radium in consumer products.

In its place came tritium, still radioactive, but much safer, and eventually the more commonly seen photoluminescent compounds like Super-LumiNova and LumiBrite, which are non-radioactive and recharge with light exposure.

And some watch brands, mostly the big names, have their own patented lumes just to show off. But whichever form it takes, lume is now not just functional but often a hallmark of watch design.

The Best Glow in the Dark Watches

From early battlefield necessity to modern-day style statement, lume has come a long way and in the same way, no matter if you’re after serious night-time legibility or just love that glow in the dark magic, there’s a long list of glow in the dark watches out there to choose from. Here are some of our personal favourites…

Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum

Bell & Ross BR-X5 Green Lum

Bell & Ross have never been shy with lume, in fact far from it. As a brand rooted in aviation and diving, legibility is in their DNA, and Super-LumiNova is a staple across nearly all of their watches.

But with their LUM collection, they’ve taken things up a notch and expanded the glow from the hands and indices to full dials, and now, even the case. One of our favorites is the futuristic BR-X5 Green Lum.

The 41mm case combines DLC-coated titanium with a glowing green composite called LM3D, giving the watch a luminous frame that shines just as much as the dial.

And the dial, also glowing bold, is made from matte black and packed with Super-LumiNova across the skeletonized hands, indices, power reserve indicator and triple-digit date windows.

Price starts from $13,300

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver

TAG Heuer might be best known for their racing chronographs, but I’ve always thought their dive watches are just as good and one perfect example is the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Night Diver.

Inspired by a 1980s “Night Diver”, a watch James Bond is rumoured to have worn once-upon-a-time, this model brings back the all-lume dial in a sleek, tactical package.

The 43mm case is fully blacked out with a matte DLC-coated stainless steel finish and a signature 12-sided bezel featuring a matte black ceramic insert. But the real star here is the dial.

It has a clean, milky white surface by day, and a full-on glowing spectacle by night thanks to an entirely luminescent coating. Paired with bold blacked-out hands and markers, it’s an absolute standout in the dark.

Price starts from $3,350

Timex T80 Glow in the Dark Limited Edition

Timex T80 Glow in the Dark Limited Edition

Glow in the dark watches don’t have to cost thousands and Timex proves that with the insanely affordable T80 Glow in the Dark Limited Edition. This retro digital piece is a throwback to the 1980s, and it nails the vibe perfectly with its nostalgic styling and bright yellow resin case and strap that glow after dark.

That’s right, the entire case and strap are coated in glow-in-the-dark material, giving it a soft greenish radiance when the lights go out. And on top of that, it also features Timex’s signature INDIGLO backlight, which lights up the digital display at the push of a button.

Sized at a compact and comfortable 34mm, the T80 includes all the digital essentials including a stopwatch, customizable alarm, and date display. It’s water-resistant to 30 meters and runs on a reliable quartz movement.

Price starts from $99

Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800

Another luxury watchmaker well-known for their use of lume in their watches in Panerai. And one of their most advanced expressions of that legacy is the Panerai Submersible Elux LAB-ID PAM01800.

Its centrepiece feature is the mechanical power-light system that lets you light up the dial, hands, and bezel on demand.

Press the patented pusher at 8 o’clock, and the watch uses stored mechanical energy to power 160 micro-LEDs, flooding the display with glow for up to 30 minutes.

The 49mm beast is also built from Ti-Ceramitech, a groundbreaking ceramized titanium that’s 44% lighter than steel and 10 times tougher than traditional ceramic.

Inside beats the complex P.9010/EL calibre, featuring six barrels, four for the light function and two for timekeeping with a 3-day power reserve.

It’s fully mechanical, water resistant to 500 meters, and loaded with Super-LumiNova® X2 and X1 in strategic places.

Price starts from $96,300

G-Shock GA2100HD-8A

G-Shock GA2100HD-8A

I love the nickname this one has obtained: the “Casiglowk”, evolving from “Casioak” but hinting at its luminosity.

The G-Shock GA2100HD-8A is part of Casio’s Hidden Glow series and features a fully luminescent dial that comes to life when the lights go out, glowing through the signature octagonal shape that helped define the GA2100’s fanbase.

The gray-on-gray palette gives the watch a stealthy look by day, but at night, the Neobrite lume lights up the dial like a lantern.

Black hour markers and skeletonized hands keep things legible even when the lume’s firing, and the subtle green tint in the day window adds just enough contrast.

Of course, it’s still a G-Shock so it’s shock resistant, 200m water resistant, ultra-durable, and ridiculously affordable.

Price starts from $110

Signum Cuda Titanium

This one isn’t just a single watch but a full collection. The Signum Cuda Titanium Full Lume offers a range of configurations built around one bold concept: extreme luminescence.

Whether you go for BGW9 blue, C5 green, or the rare dark orange dial lume, you’re getting a fully lumed dial and date wheel, all powered by Swiss Super-LumiNova.

You can also choose between shark-tooth or plain ceramic bezels, in black or blue, making this one of the most customizable full-lume offerings out there.

The 42.5mm case might sound hefty, but thanks to titanium construction, it wears light and comfortable. The matching titanium bracelet includes faceted end links that give the whole package a sharp, functional look.

Under the hood is the reliable Seiko NH35 automatic movement with a 41 hour power reserve. And it’s a true diver so there’s a 200 meter water resistance too.

Price starts from $449

Tissot PRX Quartz White

Tissot PRX Quartz White

As if the Tissot PRX wasn’t cool enough, this full lume dial variant takes it up a notch. Released in early 2023, it keeps the classic 40mm size and slim, barrel-shaped case that makes the PRX so wearable but instead elects a dial that’s a crisp, stark white in the day and right blue at night.

Pair that with a soft, quick-release white rubber strap and you’ve got a watch that’s both sleek and sporty, perfect for those who want clean style with a little extra glow. Hiding inside the Tissot PRX Quartz White, you get a reliable Swiss quartz movement making this watch super slim and low maintenance.

Price starts from $375

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceralume

A glow in the dark watch even Lewis Hamilton appreciates, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Ceralume features a fully luminescent white ceramic case, dial, bezel, and strap, all glowing brilliantly in the dark thanks to IWC’s innovative Ceralume technology.  

According to the Swiss watchmaker, years of engineering went into mixing Super-LumiNova pigments directly into the ceramic, creating a glow that lasts over 24 hours. It was clearly worth it though, becoming a material that’s super crisp and has a cool, futuristic appeal

Price TBC

Norqain Neverest Night Sight

The Norqain Neverest Night Sight is my kind of full-lume watch and a personal favourite in their Adventure collection.  Housed in the familiar 40mm Neverest case, this watch stands out with a rugged black DLC coating and a satin-brushed finish that screams sporty explorer.

But the real hallmark is the sand-colored dial crafted from X1 Super-LumiNova meaning it glows bright green in the dark for hours.

The bold 3-6-9-12 numerals were also a first for Norqain when this model was released and it works perfectly with the military-inspired edge this watch has.

The bi-directional compass bezel is a clever tool too, helping you find your way whether you’re in the northern or southern hemisphere. Inside, the COSC-certified NN20/1 movement powers the watch, offering 70 hours of power reserve.

Price starts from $3,510

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen”

A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold

A glow in the dark watch that’s a little out of most of our budgets but is too insanely cool not to mention is the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold “Lumen.”

Marking 25 years since the original Datograph, this 2024 release combines a flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar with oversized date, and a one-minute tourbillon with stop-seconds, all in Lange’s exclusive Honeygold case with a “Lumen” dial.

The dial is a semi-transparent smoked sapphire coated with Super-LumiNova, making the date discs, subdials, and moonphase glow brilliantly in the dark.

The display also features a precise jumping minute counter, rapid calendar corrections, and a beautifully finished tourbillon visible through the case back. All this is powered by the in-house calibre L952.4 with 684 parts and 50 hour power reserve.

Price starts from €620,000

Citizen Promaster Aqualand Depth Gauge

The Citizen Promaster is a popular watch with any affordable watch collector, especially those that love a durable diver’s piece. But for those that want something with a little extra flair, the Aqualand Depth Gauge is where it’s at.

First launched in 1985, the Aqualand stood out by combining a quartz movement with an electronic depth gauge which was pretty cutting-edge for its day.

Even now, the depth gauge on the side gives it a unique profile, making it instantly recognizable, and not just a gimmick since it really does work underwater, measuring your depth accurately up to 200 meters.

The watch’s analog-digital combo, now fully luminous, keeps things clear and useful without overwhelming you with clutter. It’s a wonderful nod to the past and a no-nonsense dive watch in every sense of the word.

F.P. Journe Élégante 48mm Titanium

Journe Élégante 48mm Titanium

When it comes to glow in the dark watches, few manage to blend cutting-edge innovation with true haute horology like the F.P. Journe Élégante 48mm Titanium. This is one of the world’s most expensive quartz watches and for good reason.

Inside its sleek, flat tortue-shaped case lies a revolutionary electro-mechanical movement that shuts down to conserve energy when not in use, then springs back to life when you pick it up, instantly resetting the hands to the correct time.

For lume lovers though, it’s all  about the full luminescent dial. Inspired by mother-of-pearl, it glows with an ethereal clarity, while the bold hands sweep over it like silhouettes in a shadow play.

The 48mm case may sound large, but it’s surprisingly wearable thanks to its lightweight titanium construction and ergonomic rubber strap.

Price starts from $70,600

Doxa Sub 300 Carbon Whitepearl

Doxa Sub 300 Carbon Whitepearl

Doxa is no stranger to color having executed their Sub 300 watch in almost every colour under the rainbow, but with the Sub 300 Carbon Whitepearl, they’ve taken a sharp left turn.

This isn’t just another white-dial dive watch because despite its monochrome look inclusive of a matte white dial and stealthy forged carbon case, its display is wholly luminous thanks to a full coating of white Super-LumiNova.

The 42.5mm case is forged carbon, making it super lightweight, while a titanium inner case and screw-down crown ensure it is dive ready to 300 meters.

Inside is a COSC-certified ETA automatic movement, so performance is as solid as the looks and you can choose from a black or white silicone strap, both working perfectly with the monochromatic attire.

Price starts from $4,090

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

Bulgari has never played by the rules and their Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is just one of many examples.

This ultra-thin, hyper-modern timepiece, created in collaboration with The Rake and Revolution, takes everything you thought you knew about ceramic watches and dials it way, way up. Thanks to a full Super-LumiNova dial, this thing glows, not in a subtle, occasional way either.

To pull it off, Bulgari had to rethink lume entirely. Because the dial is just 0.3mm thick, traditional lume-coated markers were out.

So designer Fabrizio Buonamassa painted the whole dial with Super-LumiNova, allowing all subdials and hands to pop in negative relief.

The result is a chronograph that looks sleek and stealthy by day, then explodes with light at night. Add in the ceramic case, 55 hour power reserve, second time zone, and world-record-thin BVL 318 movement, and you’ve got a statement piece with real watchmaking firepower.

Price starts from $17,300

Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Full Lum

Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Full Lum

Another glow in the dark watch from Bell & Ross is the BR V2-94 Full Lum but unlike the bold BR-X5, this one brings its fully luminous dial with a softer, vintage personality.

In fact, this model was Bell & Ross’s first time applying its FULL LUM concept to the rounded, retro-inspired BR V2-94 case and the result is a chronograph that’s part aviation instrument, part glowing curiosity, and all charm.

During the day, the dial wears a calm, pastel green tone that’s subtle and stylish, almost chalky in texture. But when the lights go out, the whole watch transforms.

Thanks to a trio of Super-LumiNova pigments, it lights up in multiple colors: the main dial glows green, the chronograph minutes counter at 9 o’clock glows blue, and the hands and markers pop with a yellow hue, all framed in crisp black outlines for contrast.

It also has a 41mm case, fixed aluminum bezel, and domed “box” sapphire crystal to add to the 1960s energy.

Price starts from $5,100

Boldr Venture Field Blue Moon 

Boldr Venture Field Blue Moon

Unlike many tool watches that rely on just luminous markers or hands, the Boldr Venture Field Blue Moon glows entirely from dial edge to edge thanks to a full coating of BGW9 Super-LumiNova.

By day, it’s an ultra-legible field watch with black hands and markers standing out crisply against the pale dial. But once darkness falls, the dial transforms into a glowing beacon of icy blue, living up to its namesake and then some.

Inside the 38mm matte titanium case beats the ever-reliable Seiko NH35A automatic movement, offering 42 hours of power reserve and 200 meters of water resistance which is more than enough for outdoor adventures.

The flat sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating keeps things clear, and a screw-down crown at 4 o’clock adds a nice functional feel.

Price starts from $299

Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum Meteorite

Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum Meteorite

It makes sense that a watch that pays tribute to the moon offers plenty of luminosity. The suitably named Luna Magna Platinum Meteorite by Arnold & Son is exactly that with a 12mm spherical moon phase, the largest of its kind, crafted from meteorite and luminous white opal at the centre.

This celestial orb rotates within a deep aperture at 6 o’clock, with the meteorite side symbolizing the dark far side, and the opal evoking the glowing near side visible from Earth.

The main dial, too, is meteorite and etched with the distinctive Widmanstätten pattern and treated with a sandy PVD finish that mimics moondust.

Above, an opal subdial at 12 o’clock displays time with Roman numerals and heat-blued hands. Both the subdial and moon glow ethereally at night with Super-LumiNova. Housed in a 44mm polished platinum case is the hand-wound A&S1021 calibre with a 90 hour power reserve.

Price starts from $80,700

Mühle Glashütte’s S.A.R. Rescue-Timer Lumen

Mühle Glashütte’s S.A.R. Rescue-Timer Lumen

Built for life-saving missions and unforgiving conditions, the S.A.R. Rescue-Timer Lumen from Mühle Glashütte is engineered for maximum legibility and resilience.

Originally developed in partnership with the German Maritime Search and Rescue Service, this updated version takes visibility to the next level with a full Super-LumiNova dial that glows a vivid blue-green in the dark.

Its 42mm stainless steel case is fitted with a soft rubber bezel that minimizes impact and prevents injuries during rescue work.

A massive 4mm thick sapphire crystal, three times stronger than standard, offers extreme shock protection, while water resistance up to 1,000 meters ensures survival in the harshest aquatic environments.

The movement used is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with Mühle’s proprietary woodpecker neck regulation for reliable precision.

Price starts from $2,250

Christopher Ward C1 Worldglow

This was one of the first watches from British brand Christopher Ward that really caught my eye. The C1 Worldglow takes the classic worldtimer concept and adds a bold twist: a fully lumed dial that lights up the map, 24 hour ring, and city disc with a soft blue Super-LumiNova glow. It’s surprisingly functional in the dark and undeniably cool.

At 43.5mm wide and just under 52mm lug-to-lug, it’s large for a dress watch but the size gives the dial room to breathe.

The worldtime function is intuitive, using a rotating 24 hour ring and city disc, with a red marker to track a second city. Inside is a modified Sellita SW330-1 with Christopher Ward’s JJ03 module and a 42 hour power reserve.

Price from $1,995

Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT

Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT

And finally, the fully-lumed Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver GMT takes a vintage cult classic and injects modern utility and glow-in-the-dark charisma. With its cushion case, domed sapphire crystal, and signature 3D crystal hour markers, this dive-style flyer GMT is bursting with retro charm.

But it’s the lume-dial variant that is easily the most distinctive of the lineup, thanks to its cream-colored dial and fully luminous bezel and markers that absolutely light up in the dark.

The gunmetal-plated stainless steel case measures 41mm wide and 45.2mm lug-to-lug, with a 14.6mm thickness that wears smaller than expected due to the short lugs. Inside beats the Miyota 9075, a true travel GMT movement with a jumping local hour hand.

Price starts from $1,950

Conclusion

I don’t know about you, but there’s something undeniably satisfying about a fully luminous watch. Beyond the visual punch, they serve a real purpose, offering quick, clear legibility when you actually need it. And hopefully as this list proves, you don’t have to stick to one style.

From rugged dive watches and tactical pilot chronographs to minimalist dress pieces and everyday beaters, there’s a glow-in-the-dark option out there for just about everyone. Some lean technical, others lean fun, but they all make checking the time feel a little more alive after dark.

best china brand watches

The 20 Best China Brand Watches That Might Surprise You

William Boyd

October 22, 2025

When people think of products made in China, the word “cheap” often comes to mind… sometimes fairly, sometimes not. It’s true that China has long been known for its fast, large-scale manufacturing.

But in recent years, the country has been carefully rewriting that narrative, especially in the world of watchmaking.

Most of us know China as a global leader in technology, design, and innovation. They’re miles ahead from the rest of us, which means they can mass-produce a smartwatch for under $50 and at the same time, handcraft a mechanical masterpiece that rivals even some of the biggest known Swiss icons.

Yes, you’ll always find low-cost options on the market but if you look hard enough, you can also find several Chinese made timepieces that are beautifully engineered, created with high levels of precision, creativity, and surprising levels of luxury.

In this blog, we’re looking at 20 China brand watches that prove this, from smaller microbrands to larger watchmakers you might have already heard of.

Are Chinese Watches Any Good?

Like most things, it really comes down to what you’re looking at. The reality is, there are plenty of watches floating around the internet that, to put it gently, aren’t all that great and they’re often made in China. I’m talking about those watches that are so cheap, they almost feel too good to be true. Which is often the case.

They’re typically made from low-grade materials, powered by movements that barely function and more often than not, feature designs that are just knockoffs of bigger-name brands. And look, no shame if you’ve ever wanted something that looks like a Rolex Day-Date without the painful price tag.

I can’t afford a Rolex either. But in my opinion, you’re much better off choosing a watch that’s actually a watch. One that can keep the time, handle more than a few hours of daily wear and actually comes from people who genuinely care about what they’re making.

Because the truth is, while some Chinese watches are clearly made to be sold fast and forgotten faster, there’s also a growing number that are designed with real passion.

The brands listed below are doing exactly that, making watches that are stylish, functional, and built with surprising levels of care.

They’re proof that Chinese watchmaking isn’t just about affordability, but about creativity, quality and craftsmanship. These are the Chinese made watches worth your time, attention and wrist real estate.

The Best China Brand Watches

With all that in mind, let’s get into it. Below are 20 of the best China brand watches that are doing it right. Some you might have heard of already, while others will no doubt be completely new to you. And let’s be honest, there’s nothing better than finding a new hidden gem in the world of watches.

Addiesdive

Addiesdive

If you’re looking for an affordable dive watch, then Addiesdive is a Chinese watchmaker worth knowing. Despite having shockingly low retail prices, they’ve built a solid reputation for creating rugged, well-specced timepieces that punch well above their price point.

Many of the designs feel familiar, with several reminding me of classic Seiko dive watches and some even named after iconic Seiko nicknames like “Monster” and “Turtle”. And to their credit, they don’t just copy the look but come surprisingly close in feel too.

Most Addiesdive watches are powered by reliable Japanese automatic movements like the NH35A and are fitted with sapphire crystals, ceramic bezels, and 316L stainless steel cases, features you’d normally expect from watches costing much more.

Water resistance ranges from 200 meters to 1000 meters, making them perfectly capable for casual diving and daily wear alike. The one downside that many report on is the metal bracelets, so that’s something to keep in mind. But thankfully, it’s an easy part of the watch to swap out.

Prices start from $42.99

Atelier Wen

So, from surprisingly affordable to a little more elevated, we now have Atelier Wen. Founded by two young entrepreneurs with roots in both French and Chinese culture, this company wanted to create a brand that celebrated Chinese craftsmanship not as a cost-saving shortcut, but as a point of pride.

The name itself says it all, Atelier (French for workshop) and Wén (文, Chinese for culture), is a nod to the fusion of design, heritage, and artistry that defines each timepiece.

While many brands shy away from showcasing their Chinese production, Atelier Wen leans all the way in, collaborating with local artisans and proudly spotlighting traditional techniques like hand-engraved guilloché dials and intricate case finishing.

Their best-known model, the Perception, has become a cult favorite, thanks to its beautifully executed integrated bracelet design and genuinely hand-crafted details, yet it still clocks in under $4,000.

Prices start from $3,320

Behrens

Now, stepping fully into the world of modern innovation, we have Behrens. Founded in 2012 in Shenzhen, a city quickly becoming China’s horological hotspot, Behrens is one of the most exciting names in independent watchmaking today.

This isn’t about homages or minimal tweaks on classic designs. Instead, Behrens builds its own lane entirely, creating futuristic, sculptural timepieces that rethink how time can be displayed.

The brand was started by Lin Bingqiang and is powered by a young, forward-thinking team of engineers and watchmakers who love pushing boundaries.

Think satellite displays, orbital indicators, and architectural dial layouts that look more like kinetic art than traditional watches. Despite the avant-garde styling, the technical chops are real.

Behrens has in-house R&D, production capabilities, and even earned a GPHG nomination in 2020 which is no small feat for a relatively young brand.

Prices start from $1,395

Benyar

Benyar

Another Chinese watchmaker that sharply avoids any steep price tag is Benyar. Known for its ultra-affordable timepieces that don’t skimp on design, Benyar has carved out a niche for offering watches that look far more premium than their price suggests.

Whether you’re into classic chronographs, sporty divers, or sleek dress watches, there’s likely a Benyar model that’ll catch your eye.

Founded with a love for traditional watchmaking and a focus on accessible luxury, Benyar blends modern design with respectable specs like stainless steel cases, automatic movements (or quartz in some models), and reliable build quality.

The Benyar 5177, for example, is a personal favourite of mine. It sports a bold 41mm case, a 50 meter water resistance rating, and a scratch-resistant hardlex crystal.

Prices start from $34.90

Boderry

Boderry

Guided by the motto “Be Distinctive. Be Limitless,” Boderry is a relatively new Chinese brand that has quickly gained a reputation for making high-quality, feature-packed watches that again impress with low price points.

Makes sense, since the company’s goal was to create affordable timepieces that look sharp, perform reliably, and give wearers a sense of identity.

I’ve heard great things about the Boderry Voyager, a model that many enthusiasts argue is the best sub-$100 automatic field watch on the market.

It features a lightweight but durable titanium case, sapphire crystal, and the ever-trusty Seiko NH35A automatic movement.

Prices start from $79

Celadon

Shifting gears once again, we come to Celadon, a brand that doesn’t just embrace its Chinese heritage but elevates it. Founded in 2012, Celadon is unapologetically proud to stamp “Made in China” on its watches, and for good reason.

These aren’t your run-of-the-mill, mass-produced pieces. This is haute horlogerie, reimagined through the lens of Chinese artistry and history.

Led by Singaporean collector Benjamin Chee, Celadon HH (Haute Horlogerie) is part of a larger mission to restore pride in Chinese watchmaking.

Every model is a deeply considered work of art, often featuring cloisonné dials, hand-engraved case backs, and traditional Chinese motifs.

You’ll even find custom mechanical movements developed with master watchmakers like Lin Yong Hua. These watches are easily some of the most beautiful timepieces I’ve ever seen.

Prices start from $3,900

CIGA

CIGA

CIGA Design is another Chinese watchmaker where they’ve cleverly combined avant-garde artistry with prices that feel almost too good to be true.

And it’s a brand that isn’t just respected in China but has become an international award magnet, winning nine Red Dot Design Awards (including two “Best of the Best” titles), two iF Gold Awards, and even the prestigious GPHG Challenge Prize.

Probably their most iconic piece so far is the CIGA Blue Planet, a domed, rotating miniature Earth that tells time with a compass rose and challenges everything you thought a watch could be.

It’s bold, poetic, and genuinely moving, intended to evoke the “overview effect” astronauts describe when seeing our planet from space.

Prices start from €129

Lin Yong Hua

Lin Yong Hua

One of China’s most gifted independent watchmakers, Lin Yong Hua began his horological journey in 1991 at just 18 years old, working in quartz production.

Over the next two decades, his fascination with high-complication mechanical watches led him to master some of the most complex movements in the craft like tourbillons, minute repeaters, jump hours, and perpetual calendars.

So in 2009, Lin opened his own restoration workshop in Shenzhen, eventually launching his independent brand LYH Watches in 2016.

His first creation, the Vinyl Record, was a poetic tribute to the analog music era, fitting for a man who sees art and mechanics as inseparable.

To this day, LYH’s work blends technical virtuosity with deeply personal artistic vision whether it’s the LYH-6 or his stunning mother-of-pearl dials.

Prices start from HKD $27,800

Neo Kung

Neo Kung

Neo Kung may be a new name in independent watchmaking, but his debut piece, the Orienta, speaks with the depth and confidence of a seasoned artist.

Formerly the Chief Product Officer at both Seagull and Shanghai Watch, two of China’s most storied brands (that are coming up shortly) Neo has spent years immersed in the mechanics and meaning of horology.

At first glance, the Orienta feels like a time capsule with its sleek platinum case, hand-finished chronograph dial and vintage soul. But it’s so much more than that.

Its movement, the Cal. NK-01, traces its roots to the Venus 175, the same architecture that formed the foundation of China’s first chronograph six decades ago. It’s a beautiful watch with an equally beautiful story behind it.

Prices start from $40,000

Octopus Kraken

Octopus Kraken

Octopus Kraken is a brand born from a deep love of mechanical timekeeping and a passion for design. Since 2017, the team behind Octopus has specialized in crafting vintage and dive-inspired timepieces, watches that evoke adventure, heritage, and the romance of flight and the sea.

They focus mainly on using high-quality materials like CuSn8 bronze, titanium, and stainless steel, paired with components like Swiss Super-LumiNova, domed sapphire crystals, and reliable automatic movements.

One of my personal favorites is the Octopus Kraken OCT005 Retro Bronze. Made from solid CuSn8 bronze, it ages gracefully with a unique patina, making every piece one of a kind.

With its domed crystal and pilot-style charm, it reminds me of the Oris Big Crown but at under $300, it offers a level of value rarely seen in automatic watches, let alone bronze ones.

Prices start from $190

Pagani

Pagani

Pagani Design is refreshingly upfront about what they do: crafting stylish watches inspired by the big names in luxury horology.

Established in Guangzhou in 2012, this independent brand focuses on delivering high-quality timepieces that echo the iconic aesthetics of brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet but at a fraction of the price.

There are watches that will appeal to adventure-seekers as well as sophisticated jet-setters and everything in between, just so long as you want the look and feel of luxury without the luxury price tag.

Their watches bring precision and passion to wrists worldwide, making stylish, accessible horology a reality. It’s a brand unafraid to embrace homage, with a clear focus on quality and value.

Prices start from $80

Proxima

Proxima

If you’re into well-built tool watches with a strong sense of identity, Proxima is a brand worth knowing. Founded in 2016, this independent Chinese watchmaker has carved out a loyal following by combining serious materials, reliable mechanical movements, and a direct, no-fluff approach to watchmaking.

From day one, Proxima focused on crafting timepieces that felt purposeful, drawing from the DNA of iconic dive watches like the Seiko 62MAS and Marine Master, but never just copying them outright.

They keep production small and hands-on, using premium calibres like SW200 and NH35 automatic movements, double-domed sapphire crystals, and high-grade materials including CuSn8 bronze, Grade 5 titanium, and marine-grade stainless steel. Even their black cases use advanced IPS coating rather than traditional PVD for better durability.

Prices start from $99

Qin Gan

Independent Chinese watchmaker Qin Gan is another brand redefining what “Made in China” really means in the world of haute horlogerie.

Based in Chongqing, Qin’s journey began in his father’s repair shop, where he developed a hands-on love for mechanical watchmaking.

After years working as both a designer and a restorer, most notably for Poly Hong Kong, he launched his first fully hand-finished watch in 2014.

But it was the release of the Pastorale in 2021 that truly put him on the map. Now in its second generation, the Pastorale II is a refined, gold-cased dress watch that highlights Qin’s obsessive attention to detail.

Every component, from the enamel-filled dial and heat-blued hands to the meticulously beveled bridges of the in-house caliber 1810, is finished by hand in his workshop. He produces just 15 pieces per year, making each one a rare reflection of his craft.

Price starts from $46,000

San Martin

San Martin

San Martin may have started out building homage watches, but it has quickly earned a reputation as one of China’s most respected value-driven microbrands.

Founded in 2016 by Mr. Liao JiaMing, a veteran and watch enthusiast, San Martin’s early days were hands-on and gritty, learning from factory floors, experimenting with bronze dive cases, and building everything from scratch.

But what that means, is you now have a Chinese watch brand that understands watchmaking from the inside out.

Now headquartered in Dongguan, close to many of China’s best manufacturing hubs, San Martin has grown into a company known for original designs, robust construction, and exceptional finishing, often punching far above its price point.

Their watches use proven movements like the Seiko NH34 GMT, and feature enthusiast-friendly touches like toolless micro-adjust clasps and high-spec lume.

Prices start from $138

Seagull

Seagull

Probably the best-known Chinese watchmaker out there, Seagull is a name most watch enthusiasts are already familiar with, and for good reason. 

Founded in 1955 as part of a government initiative to jumpstart China’s domestic watchmaking industry, Seagull has since grown into the world’s largest producer of mechanical movements, reportedly responsible for around 25% of global output.

Based in Tianjin, Seagull doesn’t just power hundreds of other microbrands; it also produces watches under its own name, from tourbillons to dive watches to pilot’s instruments and classic dress pieces.

But none are more revered than the Seagull 1963. Originally developed for the Chinese Air Force and powered by the ST19 movement (based on the Venus 175 column-wheel chronograph), the 1963 offers a slice of vintage military charm with real horological significance.

Prices start from $109

Seestern

Seestern

Seestern is a Chinese microbrand that’s built a reputation for crafting high-quality homage dive watches, some so faithful to their inspirations, it’s hard not to do a double take.

The brand operates under Sugess, a company with over a decade of experience in mechanical watchmaking, particularly in complications like chronographs and tourbillons. Seestern, however, represents their focused plunge into the world of dive watches.

At the helm is Coco, a watchmaker and enthusiast with deep industry experience. While Seestern doesn’t operate as a factory, its small-scale, microbrand status allows for more meticulous attention to detail during assembly, something often lost in mass production.

This approach helps deliver impressive value for money. Their now-iconic 300T model is perhaps the boldest homage in their catalog, taking obvious cues from the classic Doxa diver.

Prices start from $179 

Steeldive

Steeldive

Steeldive is a relatively young brand, but one that’s quickly made a name for itself in the world of affordable dive watch homages.

Founded in 2018, Steeldive initially gained attention by producing watches for other companies but soon pivoted to launching its own line, focusing on retro-inspired dive watches with serious bang for buck.

Powered almost exclusively by reliable Seiko NH35 movements, Steeldive’s pieces often channel iconic models from brands like Seiko, Blancpain, and Rolex, with designs that lean heavily into vintage military and tool watch territory.

Their “50-Fathoms” model, for example, isn’t trying to hide its inspiration and instead is a clear nod to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, right down to the bezel and dial layout.

Prices start from $89

Sugess

Sugess

Sugess is the parent company behind Seestern, and while Seestern focuses on dive and homage watches, Sugess leans into technical watchmaking, especially complications like chronographs and tourbillons.

They’re best known for affordable ST19 chronograph watches, using a respected column-wheel movement derived from the Swiss Venus 175.

But their boldest and most impressive move, in my option, is their Tourbillon Master collection. Yes, this really is a fully functioning mechanical tourbillon watch for under $500.Built around the Chinese-made Seagull ST8230 calibre, it offers what used to be an ultra-luxury complication at a fraction of the price. That alone makes them one of the most fascinating players in Chinese watchmaking today.

Prices start from $229

Tan Zehua

Tan Zehua

Tan Zehua is one of China’s most accomplished independent watchmakers and a full member of the prestigious AHCI since 2019.

Trained under his father in the 1960s and later running his own workshop, Tan spent decades restoring antique timepieces before turning to full-scale independent watchmaking.

His focus is pure horological craft, so hand-built movements, traditional finishing, and an obsession with escapement innovation.

He has developed four in-house calibres, including a 10-day movement and the impressive Work No. 3, featuring a constant-force mechanism via a third barrel.

But probably his most exciting development is the Di-Axial escapement, a next-gen take on George Daniels’ Co-Axial, designed for lower friction and no lubrication. Sadly, Tan’s watches are ultra-limited so they’re not easy to obtain, but it’s definitely worth trying.

Prices start from HKD $100,000

Thorn

Thorn

Finally, we arrive at the last of today’s featured Chinese watch brands: Thorn. A lesser-known name even within microbrand circles, Thorn quietly produces handsome, classically styled mechanical watches powered by the reliable Japanese NH35 movement.

While their designs may echo vintage greats, the value proposition is all their own with high-spec builds, tasteful finishing, and unbeatable pricing.

Though still relatively niche, Thorn takes its mission seriously, to create high-quality, low-cost mechanical watches that punch well above their weight.

Every piece is crafted with an attention to detail that aims to win over discerning collectors, not just casual buyers. If you’re after an accessible daily mechanical that delivers sharp looks without cutting corners, Thorn is worth a closer look.

Prices start from $69

Conclusion

It’s clear the world of watchmaking is no longer the exclusive playground of Switzerland. From the artistic mastery of Celadon to the futuristic engineering of Behrens, Chinese watchmakers are proving they have both the skill and the soul to compete on a global stage.

Yes, not every brand hits the bullseye every time, but many are creating genuinely remarkable timepieces that combine craftsmanship, innovation, and value in ways few others can.

Even the more affordable homage brands deserve credit for delivering solid watches to everyday enthusiasts. Hopefully we’ve proved that China’s growing watch scene offers something for everyone, no matter the tastes of your wrist.

best tank watches

The 10 Best Tank-Style Watches OF ALL TIME

Alex DeVane

October 21, 2025

Introduction

The tank-style watch. Now, when anyone mentions tank watches, my mind always goes to the iconic design from Louis Cartier, characterized by the immaculate square case that truly changed the game.

With a tight focus on elegance and precision, Cartier opened the door for a lot of different brands to try the formula out for themselves, leading to an entire sub-genre of watches that most refer to as tank-style or tank-inspired pieces. 

What exactly is a tank-style watch? 

Most Tank watches are defined by a rectangular or square case that perfectly encapsulates everything that they are about. The vertical sidebars on the case resemble tank treads, and they provide the watch with a very structured look that, surprisingly enough, features a lot more curvature than you would expect.

Cartier Tanks always include Roman numerals, and most tank-style watches do as well, though you will occasionally come across one every now and then that uses standard Arabic numbers.

I, for one, will always gravitate toward those that keep it traditional and follow the Cartier design to a tee because, in my opinion, the Roman numerals are what define the watch, other than the case itself, of course.

All in all, tank-style watches are some of the most radiant pieces on the market, carrying with them a rich history and unique presence. It’s no wonder they are a fan favorite.

That’s why today, we will be taking a closer look at the top tank-style watches on the market, exploring what makes them great and hopefully providing you with a lot more clarity on which piece best suits you. 

Tank Louis Cartier Watch

Tank Louis Cartier Watch

Obviously, we had to begin the list with the watch that started it all. In 1917, a legend was born. With its reserved rectangular appeal and iconic blue cabochon crown, this watch set the standard for countless future pieces and provided the legendary framework for what would be one of Cartier’s most successful designs.

The Tank Louis Cartier of today remains the most faithful variant of the original design, and it is one of the most widely appreciated pieces among the fan base.

There’s simply no going wrong with this iconic masterpiece. The design remains largely unchanged today, and it has been equipped with all the modern innovations that ensure flawless performance. 

The Tank Louis Cartier Watch costs $13,500.

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver

Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver

Moving on to the non-Cartier tank-style watches, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is probably the second most iconic choice for an authentic, rectangular watch.

The sleek, silvery appeal will undoubtedly draw you in, and after that, you will be too transfixed on the bottom right sub-dial to get distracted by anything else.

This watch carries with it a classy swagger that is quite difficult to explain. It’s a luxury staple through and through (most everything from Jaeger is), but it’s so subtle that it’s difficult to pinpoint exactly where to place it.

The clearest description I can give is that the Tank heavily inspires it and builds upon that foundation to give its wearers something unique. 

The Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso GMT SS Silver costs $10,900. 

IWC Da Vinci Chronograph

IWC Da Vinci Chronograph

IWC’s best take on the tank-style would have to go to the Da Vinci Chronograph. There’s a lot to unpack here. First of all, two sub-dials reside on the top and bottom of the dial, and being a big sub-dial guy myself, I was immediately drawn to everything this piece was about.

The indices are a lot and depending on how you feel about that, it could be a make-or-break scenario. Regardless, however, you can’t deny that this piece captures a very unique voice that is perhaps unmatched.

For starters, the white gold established a clear sense of luxury, and the automatic IWC Caliber 89360 is one of the most elegant movements that could have accompanied a watch of this style. 

The IWC Da Vinci Chronograph costs $10,500. 

Cartier Tank Americaine

Cartier Tank Americaine

Circling back to Cartier, the Tank Americaine is arguably the most coveted Tank variant today. Its slim dimensions and shiny appeal transfix the wearer at every turn, not to mention the iconic curves that have single-handedly elevated the value of this watch simply by how the lugs seamlessly blend into the bare edges of the bracelets.

The dial is slimmer as well, with the iconic Roman numerals set within a tighter space, allowing the design to be a little more creative in presenting them appealingly.

They orbit around the elegant sky-blue hands, creating a truly magical experience. This watch is and will forever be a timeless staple of true luxury watches at their finest. 

The Cartier Tank Americaine costs $6,250. 

Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase

Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase

The German watchmakers over at Glashutte really went all out to provide a retro, modernized piece that also simultaneously checks all the boxes for vintage fans. What I mean is that upon first glance, you’ll notice the modernized moonphase feature, which is obviously the key theme of the design.

However, this watch also holds onto a lot of history, particularly in how it handles its sub-dials. The indices appear to mimic a vintage aesthetic as well, and the slim hands provide a slick little extra layer of glorious detail, especially when you’re looking at the entire watch as a whole and aren’t focusing on one exact feature.

The square dial is also fairly curvy, which I know some of you go absolutely crazy for. Overall, this piece could be the perfect fit, capturing the essence of two different times, all on a gorgeous palette. 

The Glashutte Original Karree Moonphase costs $5,000.

Bulova 96B107

Bulova 96B107

You can’t go wrong with the basics. Bulova has captured just the right amount of the tank style with their 96B107, without overplaying their hand. The simple rectangular casing is quite spacious, with not a lot of features on the dial itself, instilling a calm, relaxed look that will draw many of you in.

The Roman numerals are arguably the most notable feature, and, in my opinion, they look just as good as the Cartier design that inspired them, if not even better.

Something about them is just so alluring, perhaps it’s the silver on silver coloring or the fact that they are elevated to provide the dial with a little more texture. Regardless, this is a piece that you should seriously consider, and when looking at the price, you might even be tempted to pull the trigger. 

The Bulova 96B107 costs $221.

Seiko SUP896 

Seiko SUP896 

Another design rooted in utmost simplicity, the Seiko SUP896 holds quite an iconic heritage, as chances are you have probably heard of this watch in some form or fashion.

It’s carved a very well-earned reputation for itself as being an extremely simple, affordable tank-style watch that wastes no time bringing out the best features.

The simple dial has no numerals but still manages to capture an elegant flair, not distracting from the gold markers and hands that have been finished in a gold champagne color, which, in my opinion, complements the design quite well.

It’s powered by a V115 quartz movement that uses a power cell to recharge, essentially making it maintenance-free. 

The Seiko SUP896 costs $215.

Cartier Santos Dumont SS Black Lacquer 

The mission with the Santos was to build off of the original tank design, but this time, make the dial even more square. They obviously succeeded. This particular edition comes in a jet-black dial with a prestigious-looking detail.

As with any Cartier, the Roman numerals steal the show, but what makes this piece so special is the unique layering of the background pattern, which provides the watch with many subtle details that may be easy to miss upon first glance.

I really like how smooth the metal is as well, and the flatness of the dial will either greatly appeal to you, or it will turn you away. Regardless, this watch is a masterpiece and deserves to be praised for its radiating beauty. 

The Cartier Santos Dumont SS Black Lacquer costs $8,350. 

Citizen BH1678-56E

Citizen BH1678-56E

The grand allure of this Citizen will undoubtedly attract those of you who want a taste of the lavish lifestyle but don’t necessarily want to spend an arm and a leg.

The silver and gold hue is attractive, but I think what really makes this piece stand out is the black dial that serves as a target for the eyes, and with detail that will not be noticed upon first glance, your eyes will most definitely linger on the center of this piece for much longer than you would expect.

On the inside, Japanese quartz swiftly powers the entire design, which contributes to the smaller price. I always appreciate it when a watch focuses on simpler elements to reduce the price while ensuring that the quality of the piece as a whole is not compromised. The Citizen BH1678-56E definitely adheres to that ideology. 

The Citizen BH1678-56E costs $190. 

Hamilton H13519711

Hamilton H13519711

Perhaps the most Cartier-like piece that isn’t made by Cartier themselves, this Hamilton could most likely pass as one of the Tanks in the Cartier lineup, and no one would be able to tell.

The white dial features the large, back Roman numerals, which, as you know by now, might as well be a trademark for the Cartier legacy, and three blue hands that are as thin as paper.

Sound familiar? The rectangular curve of the case provides an elegant outer shell to house this masterpiece, and because of the virtually flawless Swiss engineering, the inside movement is mechanically hand-wound, as the Swiss caliber is simply too grand not to show off. 

The Hamilton H13519711 costs $995. 

Conclusion

The Tank will go down as one of the greatest watches of all time, as its massive success has allowed watch brands to get more creative with their approach and create new designs that push the limit of what’s capable.

A lot of what you love today can be directly connected back to the first Tank, so it’s important that we remember how far we’ve come and how much more room there is to grow.

Cartier has truly inspired the masses, and it’s a beautiful testimony to their brilliance that other brands have fought to vividly recreate their timeless design while adding in unique elements.

The Tank has fostered so much creativity in the past, and as the watch world continues to evolve, I can only dream of what’s next for these masterminds.

best leather watch straps for high end watches

10 Top Leather Straps for Luxury Watches

Michael Brown

October 17, 2025

Buyers of luxury timepieces sometimes focus so much on the choice of watch that they overlook the importance of the strap or bracelet that binds it to their wrists.

A high quality, artisanal leather strap, for instance, can improve the “wrist presence” of high-end watches, particularly dress pieces, not to mention comfort on the wrist.

The type and texture of the animal hide, along with color, padding, softness, durability, stitching, shape, thickness, flexibility, lining, and taper, all factor into whether or not the leather strap compliments and enhances a watch’s appearance.

Another added benefit of a quality leather strap is that a timely and well-executed “swap out” can give a watch a fresh vibe and help scratch that “new watch itch” that occasionally plagues us all.

In this article we’ll cover 10 top types of leather straps from different manufacturers that can be paired with high-end watches and improve both the look and overall wearing experience.

10 Top Leather Straps 

The following list covers a representative range of the type of leather straps currently available for luxury watches.

1. Calfskin

Calfskin is cowhide taken from younger cows and is a widely-used material in premium watch straps today. Calfskin is less expensive than exotic leathers and is characterized by its tight-grain, smooth texture, suppleness, durability, and pleasing patina that develops over time.

Full-grain calfskin uses all layers of the hide and tends to develop a more unique patina due to its non-uniform surface. Top-grain calfskin has had the top layer of the hide removed and is generally more uniform from polishing and finishing.

A good example of a premium calfskin strap is the black, bespoke Classic 3.2 from renowned French leather maison Jean Rousseau. It has a patterned embossed finish that evokes the look and feel associated of vintage, high end watches of yesteryear. Retail $160.

2. Alligator

Alligator is a premium leather strongly associated with classic luxury dress watches. It is derived from the belly of the alligator and costs more than calfskin due to  hunting regulations and the high expense of farming them.

Alligator leather has distinctive scales which are uniform, squarish, and elevated, lending the strap depth and texture. The leather tends to be stiff at first but softens with wear, and if cared for properly, can look and feel great decades later.

The Patina Beige Alligator strap from Haddn has warm, glossy, variable hues providing interesting contrast and would work well with gold or gold-colored watches.

Made to your specifications, it also boasts a water-resistant lining, stainless steel pin-buckle, and quick release spring bars for fast and easy change-outs. Retail $165.

3. Crocodile

Like its alligator cousin, crocodile leather is also rarer and more expensive. In contrast, crocodile scales are slightly rougher and larger with rounded edges that are less discrete.

Delugs offers genuine crocodile straps in a wide range of colors, including this Glossy Grey Crocodile Signature strap.

It features a choice of silver, yellow gold, or rose gold-colored buckles with the option of a deployant clasp. The straps are hand-sewn with 0.35m thick linen thread using a durable saddle stitch technique that creates two independent stitches that form a knot at every stitch. Retail $205.

4. Lizard

Since your typical lizard is smaller than an alligator or a crocodile, it’s no surprise that the scales are also smaller, intricate, and more uniform.

Lizard leather is also thinner and more flexible than alligator and crocodile, making it a natural pick for smaller watch cases, particularly vintage ones.

Holben’s sells a black, genuine lizard skin strap manufactured by Hirsch, a family-owned tannery founded in 1765 and located in Klagenfurt, Austria.

It’s available in a wide variety of sizes and buckle materials and finishes, and it comes with “Hirsch’s Velvet Glove lining leather” that is “hypoallergenic and gentle on the skin,” and quick-release bars for easy removal. Retail $115.95.

5. Shell  Cordovan

Shell cordovan leather is derived from horses, and it’s known for dense fibers which lend it rugged durability, smooth grain, and a glossy sheen which develops a beautiful patina over time. The manufacturing process is meticulous and takes many steps over the course of several months.

While shell cordovan is a great choice for elegant dress watches, its reputation for resilience also makes it a natural choice for sports and field watches. Veblinist offers a bespoke shell cordovan, single pass, NATO-style strap in 3 colors, black, navy blue, and brown, that provides extra protection should one spring bar fail. They are only 1.3mm thick and unlined, so they are extra soft and require no break-in period.  Retail $145.

6. Saffiano

Saffiano is calfskin that has a characteristic cross-hatched pattern that is pressed onto the leather. It is treated with wax which gives it excellent durability, resistance to scratches, and both heat and water resistance.

Saffiano is also a popular material in high-end handbags. Maintenance is easy—simple cleaning with a damp cloth will keep them looking good for a long time.

French company Molequin offers an excellent assortment of Saffiano leather watch straps with colors ranging from conservative black and brown to more playful green, caramel, and “Blue Dawn”. Retail $123.50.

7. Suede

Suede is usually calfskin, sometimes lamb, and is “split-grain,” meaning that the top layers of the hide have been removed, exposing the inner layer.

It is known for its soft, velvety feel, comfort on the wrist, and its extraordinary ability to absorb a wide variety of dyes to produce a rainbow of color options. However, suede is not very water resistant.

Since it is not glossy, many consider suede a more casual or sport option, but a muted black or brown one paired with a high-end dress or vintage watch can be appropriate for many occasions.

While many suede straps are thin with no padding, WatchGeko offers the padded Italian leather Stanton Conceria in 5 different colors, contrasting stitching, and quick release spring bars. Retail $95.

8. Ostrich

If you’re wanting a strap even more exotic than alligator or crocodile, then ostrich leather may be for you. Regarded as a very premium leather associated with high-end luxury watches, it has distinctive round “bumps” from the bird’s quill follicles that can vary in size and thickness.

Ostrich leather is very soft, supple, and flexible, and makes for a very luxurious wearing experience. It is also very durable and naturally water resistant.

The Strap Tailor has an excellent variety of ostrich straps in a wide range of colors. But if you want that kind of premium feel that stands out from the crowd, you’ll pay extra—retail $167.

9. Vegan

Let’s say you want the look and feel of leather but out of principle want to stay away from animal products. If so, take a look at vegan leather which mimics the look and feel of leather but is made from synthetic materials like polyurethane (PU) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC), or plant-based materials such as pineapple leaves, cactus, cork, and grapes. Note that the durability may not be as good as genuine leather.

Spanish company Hurtig Lane specializes in vegan watch straps with various styles, colors, and source materials. Most of their offerings retail in the $100 range.

10. Hybrid leather/rubber

Leather straps generally do not play well with water. One solution that has become more popular in recent years is hybrid leather/rubber, which uses rubber as the inner lining with a genuine leather on top, the latter waxed and polished for more durability and water resistance.

Despite being treated, the leather will still show its natural characteristics and develop a unique patina over time.

Milano Straps offers several hybrid alligator and crocodile rubberized leather straps, including this eye-catching electric blue with orange stitching which retails for $145.

Conclusion

The effect of a luxury watch doesn’t have to stop at the tip of the lugs. A well-chosen, complimentary leather strap will extend a timepiece’s aesthetic impact around the wrist, even as it performs the daily and less glamorous task of keeping it attached to its owner.

best mechanical watches under 1000

It isn’t necessarily difficult to find a mechanical watch under $1,000, but it’s more about finding the right quality. You get the benefit of reliable craftsmanship that doesn’t come with a retail price that’s out of range. The way I see it, mechanical watches under the $1,000 mark are a great option for the everyman.

Whether you’re a first-time buyer or consider yourself an enthusiast, you’d be surprised at how many quality timepieces you can find in this category. There’s definitely no shortage, but you want to get into the technical details before you start spending money.

From my perspective, every model listed in this article has the balance you need to validate the cost. Get a closer look at 16 of the best mechanical watches that you can find for under $1,000 right now.

Choosing the Right Mechanical Watch

If you aren’t familiar with the terminology, mechanical watches work off of a wound spring, but they can be automatic as well. That’s also the reason I find it so important to look into every layer of the design, so you know what you’re getting into.

Considering the price point, reliability is what I like to focus on most. I fully intend to keep the watches I buy for a lifetime, and that requires a decent amount of research. Personally, I’m a fan of hand-wound designs as it offers a more tactile experience.

Although the technical details matter, that doesn’t mean you should overlook style. Every timepiece mentioned in this article is bound to impress and surely doesn’t look cheap in any sense of the word.

Regardless of how much experience I have in the industry, I prefer to get into the fine details, as that’s what really sells a price tag for me. 

Best Mechanical Watches Under $1,000

In reality, there are definitely more than 16 stellar options on the market, but those mentioned in this article stood out for more than one reason. Over the years, I have definitely broken the bank just to get my hands on a nice watch, but that’s not what we’re doing here.

Don’t let the under $1,000 mark fool you, as each timepiece mentioned here looks far more expensive than it retailed for. Of course, this comes from personal opinion, but I wouldn’t throw just any mechanical in this list if I didn’t feel it was worth the buy.

1. Hamilton Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)

Hamilton Field Mechanical 38mm

Featuring a military-inspired design, the watch might look simple, but Hamilton knows a thing or two about functionality. It’s reminiscent of a 1960s soldier’s watch with a modern spin on the engineering.

You’re working with a hand-wound movement, an H-50 caliber, more specifically, on top of a sizable 80-hour power reserve.

I honestly love the field specs of this watch, as the brand definitely took a classic approach. This can be seen in the stainless steel 38mm case, with a bold black dial and durable NATO strap as well. In today’s world, the watch carries pop culture appeal, but don’t let that make you think it’s a gimmick.

The watch comes with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a noticeable 50-meter water resistance. I’m personally not a fan of bulkier watches, so the slim 9.5mm thickness of this design works perfectly for me.

For the price point, you’re facing $625 out of the door, and it’s yours.

2. Seiko Prospex Sea “King Turtle” (ref. SRPE03)

2. Seiko Prospex Sea “King Turtle” (ref. SRPE03)

Built to be adventure-ready, this particular model is geared towards water-sport enthusiasts. It’s a popular and affordable choice for those who like diver watches, and it meets 200-meter ISO standards for water resistance.

Although this might sound pretty normal, I like to highlight the reliability of the screw-down crown and caseback.

Durable construction matters, too, as it can be felt in the 45mm stainless steel case and bold and black ceramic rotating bezel. The sapphire crystal is anti-reflective, which can be pretty crucial in the water.

For those looking for easy readability and bold wrist presence, this is a timepiece that’ll stand out. On my end, it’s always the internal that I’m the most interested in.

An example of this would be the movement that’s being used. The King Turtle works off of a 4R36 automatic caliber movement, which includes 24 impressive jewels. More importantly, it promises a 41-hour power reserve, which can be automatically or manually wound.

Affordability is the name of the game here, and the watch will only run you $625.

3. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm (ref. T137.407.11.041.00)

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm

With a Powermatic 80 automatic movement, this translates to an 80-hour power reserve and a patented Nivachron hairspring.

In short, you’re getting more than enough precision and anti-magnetism here. I’m very much inspired by the retro-design choices, as the watch has some similarities to the original Tissot case design from 1978.

The 40mm case is a great middle-ground for most people, and its thickness sits just under 11mm. I can’t deny the aesthetics of this watch, but that isn’t the only thing that matters. Thankfully, Tissot delivers a high-quality build with 316L stainless steel on top of a tonneau-shaped case.

I’d also like to point out the bracelet, as I’m a huge fan of butterfly clasps. What you’re looking at in this watch is Swiss-made reliability, which is hard to question if you ask me.

Between 100m water resistance, a beautiful see-through case back, and everyday reliability, the PRX Powermatic is a winning choice in my book.

When it comes to the price, all you have to swing is $775, and it’s yours.

4. Hermétique Tourer Blue (ref. N/A)

Hermétique Tourer Blue

Stemming from the Hermétique collection, the Tourer Blue stands out amongst the other colorways, if you ask me. What I appreciate is that they didn’t get too bold with the color choice, and it blends very well with the surrounding steel.

Another watch that keeps exploration in mind, you’re getting 150-meter water resistance and an integrated crown for ambidextrous usability. Even better, the watch boasts double-dome sapphire, so you won’t be easily breaking this one. 

It may not be hard to come by, but legible design is a crucial focal point and one that I’m pretty critical about. This watch meets the standard with a matte finish on the dial, polished syringe-style hands, and Super-Luminova BGW9 for bright visibility.

You can choose between an FKM rubber strap or stainless steel for a better match. This makes it a perfect option for indoor and outdoor environments.

The cost for this one sits at $632.50, making it more than reasonable for everyday wear.

5. Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Super Titanium (ref. NB6021-17E)

Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Super Titanium

Another diver’s watch that’s worth the attention is the Promaster Fujitsubo from Citizen, which takes inspiration from their 1977 Challenge Diver. Considering this watch will continue to tick after extensive water exposure, you’ll feel like you never have to take it off.

The watch works off of an in-house automatic Caliber 9051. This comes with a 42-hour power reserve and the mechanical quality you’re looking for.

I was actually pretty surprised at how protected this watch is inside and out. What I mean by this is the sapphire crystal, antimagnetic resistance, and 16,000 A/m will have your back for a long time.

If you consider yourself somewhat of a collector, this is a great model to add to your lineup. It ships in a dive tank box and boasts a very classic appeal that’ll never go out of style. Those who like to get in the water can rely on the 200m water resistance and durable black polyurethane strap.

A little pricer than some others on this list, the Promaster Fujitsubo remains affordable at $825.

6. Seagull 1963 38mm (ref. N/A)

Seagull 1963 38mm

For this watch, you’re looking at a mechanical chronograph watch with a very vintage appeal to its design. I can’t deny that the simplicity of this watch is what makes me want one for myself.

It operates with a Seagull ST19 hand-winding movement, which is also based on the Swiss Venus 175. I always have to look for it, and I was happy to learn the movement includes 21 gorgeous jewels.

Add on the fact you’re getting 21,600 BPH and a 42-hour power reserve, and the watch can easily last a lifetime. It’s important to note there’s quite a bit of historical significance here. For starters, the watch is inspired by the first military aviation watch in China. 

Other important technical details include a reliable 316L stainless steel case, 47mm lug-to-lug length, and a 3 ATM water resistance rating. The 12.7mm thickness is a bit much for me personally, but it offers a good balance to the rest of the specs.

The price point is hard to argue with, as you can grab this watch for only $382.

7. Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Spider (ref. 32023A09)

Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Spider

The first thing I noticed about this watch is its silver sunray dial, which features eight “spider leg” lines. Flaring from the center of the watch, this is one of the most unique details about the watch if you ask me.

I’m also loving the fact that they went with the classic Dauphine hands and vintage reissue of the rare 1970s Nivada Grenchen model.

While the movement is pretty standard here, that doesn’t mean you won’t get reliability. It’s a Swiss-made Soprod P024 automatic movement with a screw-down crown. The build itself is pretty refined, featuring a 38mm stainless steel case, 11.1mm thickness, and the 20mm lug width is pretty reasonable if you ask me.

Durability takes a modern approach with this watch as it promises 100m water resistance and a double-domed sapphire crystal. I’m actually pretty glad they’re versatile with the strap options on this model. Whether you prefer leather, flat link, or even rice bead design, you have several to choose from.

Sitting closely under the $1,000 mark, the Antarctic Spider retails for $945.

8. Formex Field Automatic 40mm (ref. 0660.1.6543.723)

Formex Field Automatic 40mm

I always have respect for a 40mm case, as it looks sturdy but not too bold for my skinnier wrists. This Field Automatic from Formex is built with the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which comes with 26 jewels, a clear date display, and a 41-hour power reserve. Even better, this particular movement can easily be serviced in most parts of the world if needed.

You won’t have any issues with legibility, and I’m a pretty big fan of the sandwich-style dial features. Recessed numerals offer some depth to the dial, and I’d encourage anyone to appreciate the vintage Super-LumiNova.

The watch is resistant to water up to 150m, and the construction of the watch makes it viable for outdoor treks. From tool-free strap options to the overall focus on physical comfort, Formex found a great middle ground of luxury, affordability, and comfort.

Sitting pretty close to the $1,000 limit, the Field Automatic from Formex is available for $995.

9. BOLDR Venture Wayfarer-Khaki (ref. N/A)

BOLDR Venture Wayfarer-Khaki

Featuring a 24-hour sundial design, this affordable watch from BOLDR is one that I feel shouldn’t be overlooked. Paying homage to the vintage 24-hour design, it definitely caters to the outdoor crowd. More specifically, anyone who operates outside of normal day/night cycles could easily wear this watch all day. 

Legibility won’t ever be an issue with this model, and it’s more than adventure-ready with the promise of 200m water resistance. Once again, I was reeled in by the choice of a matt dial. Regarding the movement, it’s a Miyota 8217 automatic and can be hand-wound as well.

Although I can understand why people love stainless steel, I would roll with titanium every single time. This watch boasts a lightweight titanium case.

Even with the 12mm thickness, 38mm case, and 44mm lug to lug size, the watch doesn’t feel as big as it looks. One caveat to consider is that this Venture Wayfarer includes a tough nylon strap, a material that isn’t necessarily my first choice.

If this sounds like it would be fitting for your collection, there isn’t much holding you back at $339.

10. Traska Freediver Carbon Black (ref. 1187)

Traska Freediver Carbon Black (ref. 1187)

What really struck a chord with me about this watch is its generally robust construction of it. For the most part, this is seen not only in the 316L stainless steel but also in the special hardening treatment it has received. Don’t worry about knocking your wrist on counters or door frames; this watch can take it.

Aside from that, it’s a great watch for people who prefer boxed sapphire crystal instead of the standard circular style. Even with the double-domed sapphire, you won’t have to worry about light messing with your view.

You get a pretty standard movement here, but a reliable one at that. I’m easily sold on the Japanese Miyota 9039 movement, but this doesn’t come with date information.

However, if you opt for the Miyota 9019, you’ll get a date window. It’s a comfortable watch that promises a higher quality than what’s seen on the surface level.

I have to say the price is pretty modest too, sitting at $705 and even cheaper if you go pre-owned.

11. Flygraf Flieger French Air Force (ref. YFLY24AA-AAS)

Flygraf Flieger French Air Force

Maybe I’m biased due to my family’s history, but I always have respect for a quality military-inspired timepiece. More specifically, this Flygraf Flieger French Air Force watch is a direct collaboration with the French Air and Space Force.

Due to this alone, you’re looking at a timepiece wristwatch that you can rely on for the rest of your life. It even comes with official French military markings and a lightweight titanium case, which is a winning choice for me.

The dial is a beautiful piece of work featuring sword-shaped hands, Arabic numerals, and a sandwich-style triangle at the 12 o’clock position.

Even better, the watch includes an in-house YEMA2000 movement, which is a mechanical and automatic movement featuring 29 individual jewels. Although you don’t get an exhibition caseback here, the titanium construction makes up for it in my opinion. 

The price point is more than reasonable, asking $990 brand new.

12. Lorier Falcon Series III (ref. N/A)

Lorier Falcon Series III

Channeling the vibe of mid-century explorer watches, the Lorier Falcon Series III is one you’ll want to be proactive with. It features a classic 3-6-9 dial layout, and the vintage styling makes it easily legible.

Refinement is an important focal point here, highlighting a versatile black/silver honeycomb dial and a more ergonomic Ternion bracelet.

What I really appreciate about this watch is the middle ground they created between vintage and modern styles. Don’t let the 316L marine-grade stainless steel make you think this watch is anything but average.

You get a decent 100m water resistance and the dome Hesalite crystal, which really adds to the vintage aesthetic.

Of course, you get a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement with hand-wound capabilities. The mechanical nature allows you to be a lot more hands-on with the watch, which is something I’m always looking for. 

I honestly expected a higher price tag for this watch based on the description, but it will be available here soon for $499.

13. Baltic HMS 002 Silver (ref. HMS 002)

Baltic HMS 002 Silver

A combination of 1940s Baltic elegance and modern Art Deco style, the HMS 002 dons a sandblasted texture on the dial.

The polished leaf-shaped hands complement this, and the contrasting brushed sector dial is a beauty to look at. I have always appreciated a 38mm case, and the design is meant to support those with more active lifestyles.

It still carries a very professional look, but this watch isn’t meant to reside only in the office. It features 316L stainless steel and a 13mm thick case, so durability isn’t really much of a concern for me.

If you still aren’t sold on it, consider the benefits of the Miyota 8315 movement with a 60-hour power reserve.

What I really love about this watch is that you get the option of either a closed or exhibition case back. For me, I’m choosing the open caseback every time.

Other notable and practical features you should know about include 50-meter water resistance, a beautifully engraved crown, and multiple strap options. For the best possible match to the case design, I highly suggest going for the Italian calf leather strap.

Considering there’s so much to appreciate about this watch, it makes the price of $414 entirely worth it.

14. Vero Open Water 41 – Daybreak (ref. N/A)

Vero Open Water 41 - Daybreak

With a 41mm case that’s matte bead-blasted and made of 316L stainless steel, you’re getting style and durability all in one. The Open Water 41 from Vero, as you might expect, caters to those who can appreciate a solid diver’s watch.

You can rely on its rugged performance, and it’s powered by a movement previously mentioned, the Sellita SW-200-1 automatic.

Falling into the mechanical movement category, it’s another timepiece that’s built for those who like being hands-on. Since it’s crafted with divers in mind, legibility will never be an issue here either.

I’d consider this watch to look relatively modest on the surface, and although orange isn’t my color, it definitely makes the dial noticeable.

More specifically, case dimensions are sitting at a 40mm width, including 11mm thickness and 20mm lug width. If you ask me, I’d say this is pretty versatile, making it a viable choice for many different types of people and style preferences.

Based on what you’re getting, I’d say the cost of $890 is pretty reasonable here.

15. Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver (ref. N/A)

Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver

First and foremost, I have to point out that this is a limited edition diver from Dan Henry. Aside from the multiple colorways available, the deep black looks the best to me. There are only 1,970 pieces made, hence the name, which gives the watch plenty of long-term value.

Most of the specs on this watch are pretty standard, but the 14.8mm thickness definitely stood out to me. Inside the watch, you’ll find a Japan-caliber NH35 automatic movement, but that doesn’t count out its hand-wound capabilities.

The water resistance rating sits at 200 meters, and you can easily switch between a canvas leather or rubber strap. Versatility isn’t hard to find with this timepiece, and the cost makes it all feel much more worth it.

To be completely honest, reading about this watch made me expect a bit of a higher price tag, but I was definitely wrong.

This diver’s watch from Dan Henry is retailing for $310 right now.

16. Marathon 34mm Black GPM Type II Field Mechanical (ref. 6645-00-066-4279)

Marathon 34mm Black GPM Type II Field Mechanica

Delivering a military-grade feel and built to U.S. MIL-PRF-46374G standards, this watch is crafted to go to work for you. Between general reliability and functionality, this watch is meant to be used on a daily basis.

You’re getting a mechanical movement with the Seiko NH35A, which includes 24 jewels but no date complication. There isn’t much water resistance here, but you do get a legible and tactical diversity.

To highlight this further, I’m talking about titanium gas tube illumination and 12 to 24-hour scales. I was also pretty impressed with the case, which is 34mm in size and made of high-impact composite fibreshell.

The watch is pretty modest with its dimensions, but it doesn’t lack when it comes to durability and even weight distribution. 

Of course, I have to respect the price point as it doesn’t get much better than $382.50, making it more than accessible to most watch lovers.

Let’s wrap up

Finding the perfect mechanical watch isn’t always a linear decision-making process. Whether it’s focusing on every layer of the design or finding a reliable retailer, I advise anyone to take their time and ask questions.

The biggest win here is that every one of these watches is affordable, without compromising on long-term quality. Your best bet to land a mechanical watch that aligns with you is by speaking with reputable industry-dedicated retailers, such as Exquisite Timepieces.

That’s how you get your hands on the details and discover the confidence that can be hard to find through spec sheets alone.

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