Category: Rolex

Rolex is the legitimate king of luxury sports watches; its dive watches carry huge significance, history, and importance to its sports watch lineup. Using the oyster case that has been fundamental to its sports watch reputation and water resistance, the Submariner is the quintessential dive watch. 

Among the first purposely built watches for diving, innovated, and made better generation upon generation, the Submariner is the champion of Rolex’s pursuits into the deep. 

Rolex’s huge success in marketing, capitalization of growth, industry-leading evolution of its collection, originality, and high brand value, has made the Submariner an unchallenged icon 70 years since its inception. 

A fundamental partner and participant in the huge success of its dive watch history is the Sea-Dweller in its many forms, essentially a hardcore variation of the Submariner. Sometimes this does bring forth the debate about which is better.

About the Rolex Submariner

The Submariner first saw light in 1953 and would make its official debut the following year. It was one of the earliest examples of a modern dive watch, only to be beaten to the market by the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms by a few months. The 6204 was the first Submariner reference and would be the first watch to reach a record depth of 100m.

The Submariner would follow an evolutionary development path throughout its 70-year existence and would see many variations with minor details and upgrades that make it one of the most collectible watches of today.

In 1954 the reference 6205 first featured its synonymous Mercedes hour hand; this was followed by the 6200 in 1955, which was the first “Big Crown” Submariner and also the first to feature 200m of water resistance. 1956 saw the introduction of 6538, which was made famous for being worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr. No (1962), giving the Submariner celebrity stardom early in its life, which hugely impacted its popularity. 

1957 marked the first appearance of a military-issued Submariner with the reference A/6538, featuring fixed spring bars and a larger bezel made with German Silver for easy gripping and a tendency to dent and not crack. This would be followed in the 70s by the 5513, double-stamped 5513/5517, and the 5517. These were made to MOD specifications inspired by the MOD Seamaster, featuring updates like sword hands, crown guards, and a fully graduated bezel.

In 1959, the 5512 was the first commercial model to receive crown guards, and in 1967 the Submariner gained a date feature with the reference 1680 equipped with the iconic cyclops. This split the range into two, with a date or a no-date offering for purists who preferred the symmetrical dial. The date watches would also become available in precious metals like today. 

The 5512 would be followed by the 5513 from 1962 to 1990, the longest production run to date, during which many changes would be made to the Submariner, replacing the gilt gloss dial with a meters first matte dial, followed by non-serif typography and larger indexes known as Maxi-dials. 

The 5513 would share a timeline with the “Date Models”, 1680 and the 16800 (1977-1987). The latter would feature a sapphire crystal and a Triplock crown, making it the first Submariner waterproof to 300m, a number unchanged today in the modern line. 

A new model would also be added to the steel or full gold offerings, which would be the first two-tone reference in 1984 available in either a bright blue or black, the watch that made the 80s a very successful and memorable era for two-tone watches. 

The 168000 would introduce us to Rolex’s now proprietary 904L-Steel, followed by the 16610 (1987-2010), considered the first modern Submariner with premium white gold surround indexes and a modern movement, the COSC-Certified 3135. The “No-date” 14060 Submariner shared this modernity between 1990-2002. The 14060M would follow between 2002-2010 and became a Certified chronometer in 2007 with the 3130 movement; it would be the last Submariner to feature drilled lugs.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner in 2003, we were introduced to the “Kermit” Submariner 16610LV, replacing the black aluminum bezel of the 16610LN with a green one for the first time. The first of its kind to properly execute a daring color amongst luxury watch brands and a fitting color to commemorate its anniversary. 

In 2008, to celebrate its 100th anniversary, Rolex paved the way for a newer, more luxurious, and indestructible Submariner, the “Smurf” 116619LB, that impressed with a host of updates like a maxi case, more durable and high-end ceramic bezel insert with gold/platinum markers, solid link bracelet, and new generation Glidelock extension equipped clasp that set a new benchmark on wearability. 

In 2010, the rest of the Submariner collection finally received the same updates, introducing the 116610LN Black Date, 114060LN No date, combination, and full yellow gold models. The LV version of the 116610 would now feature a green sunburst dial and would be nicknamed the “Hulk”, becoming one of the most collectible modern references.

Always ahead of its time, highly engineered, with elegant, functional, and timeless beauty, the Submariner is an icon. It became the blueprint for any dive watch that was to follow and therefore is the ultimate realization of a professional dive watch through its timeline that has evolved with the needs of its wearers, collectors, and storytellers of its legacy.

Its ultimate status and versatility have made it the most sought-after and proven luxury sports watch in the modern era for almost any and every luxury sports watch enthusiast.

About the Rolex Sea-Dweller

The backstory of the Sea-Dweller and the quest to go deeper than ever imagined began way back in 1953 when history was made; an experimental Deep Sea Special was affixed to the exterior of an experimental diving vehicle known as the Trieste and survived an unseen crushing depth of 3,150m. This was followed in 1960 with the Deep Sea Special No 3, which made the trip down to an incredible 10,916m.

In 1967, Rolex would finally release the Sea-Dweller 1665 with 500m of water resistance, no cyclops, and featured an innovation inspired by the needs of COMEX divers that would become the hallmark of the Sea-Dweller, a helium escape valve at the side of the case to stop the crystals from popping off during decompression after full-saturation diving. 

They would further test this technology with COMEX, a French diving company specializing in engineering and deep diving operations, forming a partnership in 1971. Among the 1665 Sea-Dwellers available to Comex for testing before its commercial launch in 1971, 5514 COMEX-only Submariners with helium escape valves were also provided. 

The initial batch of the prototype 1665 Sea-Dwellers would be known as “Single-Red” and be replaced by the “Double Red” two-line red text model with an increased 610m of water resistance. In 1977, the Submariner text was dropped along with the choice of red text to white, and became known as the “Great-White”.

The 16660 would finally replace the 1665 reference in 1978, featuring a sapphire crystal allowing it to increase its depth rating to 1,220m. It was also equipped with a more modern movement, the 3035, with quickset date. A decade later, it was replaced by the 16600, which yet again received a more modern movement, the 3135 with a longer power reserve; and came with a black dial that featured three types of lume variations in its 20-year production run.

The Sea-Dweller would temporarily be discontinued in 2008, for the bigger, badder 11666 Deepsea Sea-Dweller, with a larger 44mm case and a Ring-Lock-System allowing it to reach an impressive depth of 3,900m. It would be a completely new watch not restricted by its initial concept and received many advancements that made it an outright more capable, modernized, and luxurious offering. 

Among which was the move to ceramic bezels (fully graduated) with gold/platinum markers, solid links, and an overly engineered new clasp with Glidelock and a wetsuit extension. This would be a huge success during the recent large watch trend and would be the ultimate expression of the modern-day capabilities of the brand.

Rolex returned to a 40mm Sea-Dweller in 2014, which was well received as the “Sleeper Submariner” due to its similar yet thicker specifications to a regular then-current production Submariner. 

To retain its hardcore character, it featured a fully graduated bezel and a matte black dial. This model was replaced by the current 126600, a new 43mm variant with a return to the single-red text of the old.

The Sea-Dweller and the Deepsea Sea-Dweller have proven to be Rolex’s flex of its innovation and pursuits to the deep, highlighting the extended capabilities of its original dive watch concepts that is the Submariner and the oyster case. The extended offering has been welcomed by dive watch enthusiasts that crave hardcore specifications or simply for those who have a taste for more novelty compared to the refined and elegant Submariner.

Rolex Submariner vs Sea-Dweller: Which One Should You Choose?

Model Options

Today, the Rolex diver lineup consists of 5 subcategories, divided by the Submariner No Date, Submariner Date, Sea-Dweller, Deepsea Sea-Dweller, and Deep Sea Challenge. The Submariner No Date, from its inception till today, is a watch that is considered to be available for purists. Only offered in black and only in steel, it maintains its tool legacy of not being tampered with.

The Submariner Date is a variant that has seen Rolex experiment with different dial/bezel colors and case materials over many years to form a very essential yet proven collection. In steel, the watch is offered in two variants, a black dial with a black bezel or a black dial with a green bezel, a color previously used to commemorate its anniversary models. 

Two-tone “steel and 18k yellow gold” models have a familiar choice of black dial and bezel or a sunburst blue dial with blue bezel, and full 18k yellow gold models also have the same dial and bezel offerings. The 18k white gold variant, arguably the most exclusive model in the dive watch collection, now features a black dial and a blue bezel.

The Sea-Dweller, now offered in 43mm, is available with a black dial and bezel with a vintage-inspired red line of text on the dial for the steel model. It also comes in two-tone with a black dial and black bezel.

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 44mm, offered only in steel, is available in two variants, the first being a black dial with black bezel, and the second featuring a deep blue to black gradient dial with Kawasaki green text accompanied with a black bezel, made to commemorate James Cameron’s expedition to the bottom of the Mariana Trench.

The Deepsea Challenge 50mm, Rolex’s newest halo model diver, is only available with a black bezel and matte black dial to match its hardcore modern-era capabilities. It also features a case and bracelet entirely made of titanium, a first from Rolex.

Build Quality

Supreme build quality is synonymous with Rolex; the concept of the sports watch has journeyed great lengths thanks to the unmatched ethos of the brand to evolve rather than revolve. The “Rolex way” is continuously looking forward to using the best manufacturing and machining techniques available, never compromising on reliable watchmaking. 

In the modern day, where watches have become a status symbol rather than simply tools, its collection boasts the perfect marriage of luxury and functionality. Virtually indestructible, better, and more capable than ever before.

Rolex’s dive watch collection shares continuous refinements with its entire collection. We now see the usage of only proprietary metals, solid link tapering bracelets, industry-leading clasps, gold indexes and hands, ceramic bezels with gold or platinum-filled markings, modernized calibers, and the finest tolerances in manufacturing, making Rolex the world’s leading sports watch maker. 

When comparing the Submariner range to the Sea-Dweller, essentially one being the hardcore variant of the other, they share the same DNA. Therefore, there is no compromise on build quality to be made when choosing either model.

Movements

Rolex steadily updates all calibers across its entire range. Its dive watch models currently use the 3230 and 3235 calibers, which are identical besides a date complication. You still get ± 2 seconds a day of precision with a Parachrom hairspring and the Superlative Chronometer specification. 

What’s new is Rolex’s proprietary Chronergy escapement, allowing for more efficient and reliable precision in between service intervals, and a 70-hour power reserve, a lot more than the 48-hour previous generation calibers.

Price & Availability

The most entry-level professional dive watch from Rolex, the 124060LN Submariner “No-date”, begins at a retail price of $9,100 and has a market value of $12,100. The same 30 percent premium can be found with the 126610LN Submariner “Date” (retail $10,250, market 13,750). 

The most popular model, the 126610LV Submariner “Starbucks”, has a retail price of $10,800, and a market price of $16,700, making it the model with the highest premium of 55% above its retail price. 

With the market in preference of steel models, the addition of gold amounts to fewer premiums in pricing with the combination Submariners. The 126613LB retails at $15,600, with a market value of $17,600, while the less black version, the 126613LN, retails at $15,600, with a market value of $16,350. 

The Sea-Dweller models fetch fewer market premiums than the Submariners; however, even with the more excessive/pricier models in the lineup, they still prove to be very popular amongst collectors. The Sea-Dweller 126600, retailing at $13,250, currently fetches a nearly identical market price, while its less popular combination counterpart, the 126603, retails at $18,000 and has a discounted market price of $16,600. 

The Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660-0004 black dial retails at $14,200 and has a market price of $15,300, while its special dial variant, the 136660-0003 D-Blue, retails at $14,500 and has a market value of $17,400. The newly released Deepsea Challenge, even with its high retail price of $26,000, and highly niche target market of large watch collectors, fetches a premium market price of $32,000.

Rolex’s sport model collection has been limited to long waitlists in recent years for almost every model. The length of the waitlist and your chances of getting a desired model at retail will reflect on its market value, which also reflects its popularity in the market. This makes buying relationships with authorized dealers vital in hopes of escaping the premiums in the marketplace.

Value Retention & Investment

We have come to a point where we can almost assume that all watches discussed in this segment will be able to retain their value in the short and long term, even when the market has passed a recession as it is now, Rolex’s premium value retention is strong and in high percentages. This is due to the huge disparity in ratios in production to demand. This comes as a result of the wider knowledge available to consumers, consumers that brands like Rolex cannot satisfy over the next decade.

The Submariner’s popularity, hype, and versatility make it an easy winner in terms of investment potential compared to the Sea-Dweller. However, the novelty of the Sea-Dwellers, and the breath of playfulness and experimentation that Rolex allows for them, make the models a great investment over the long term.

Notable Submariner & Sea-Dweller Models

Rolex has forged a formidable dive watch collection with a diverse range of proprietary metals, specifications, complications, and capabilities, diving over 10 times deeper than the other. Let’s dive into some of them.

Rolex Submariner No Date 124060LN

The 124060 Submariner, known as the “No-date”, is the purest available iteration of the range, available only in 904L Steel, for the first time 41mm in diameter, returning to the more elegant tapered lugs compared to the maxi case of its predecessor, attached to an industry-leading solid link Oyster bracelet with a lug width of 21mm tapering to 19mm at the dual safety clasp that has Glidelock with 20mm of adjustment.

Due to its lack of a date window at 3 o’clock, the 124060 is loved for its symmetrical clean dial layout; it only comes with a gloss black dial paired with a black Cerachrom bezel. Its dial indexes and hands feature full Chromalight and are made of 18k white gold; its bezel features markings that are filled with platinum and has a lume pip at 12 o’clock. 

Exclusive to this model is the no-date 3230 movement, which was new in its 2020 release, giving it 70 hours of power reserve and more efficiency. This model is the foundation of every other Submariner and is an essential model to Rolex and anyone’s collection. (Retail price $9,100)

Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN

The Submariner 126610LN Date offers the same formula as the No-date with the added versatility of a date window. Still remains is the 41mm case with the more elegant tapered lugs, made in Rolex’s proprietary 904L steel, attached to a solid link Oyster bracelet that starts at 21mm and tapers down to 19mm at the clasp that is a dual safety with Glidelock.

Also maintained is its tool watch aesthetic with full brushing and only features polishing at the side of the case and bracelet, the crown, and the bezel edges. 

This LN reference comes with a black dial that features a date window at 3 o’clock magnified by the Cyclops on the sapphire on the sapphire crystal, a key feature to nearly all Date Rolexes. It is paired with a black Cerachrom bezel with platinum markings to make for one of the most recognizable sport watch layouts to date. 

As of 2020, all Submariners received a refresh, and all date models received a movement update with the 3235. Thickness remains the same at 12.5mm as the no date; its elegant implementation of specifications makes it the more practical desk diving option in comparison to the purist no date; this is also the gateway drug to other Date Submariner variations. (Retail price $10,250)

Rolex Submariner “Starbucks” 126610LV

The Rolex Submariner 126610LV is the enthusiast hit in the collection. “LV” in its reference, standing for “Lunette Verte”, which means “green bezel” in French, was first used on a Submariner reference with the “50th Anniversary Submariner Kermit”. The tradition of Rolex’s and its fans’ favorite color, “green”, has since been maintained and upgraded nearly every decade. 

The 126610LV, nicknamed the “Starbucks”, is now the grandson of the original Kermit and ditches the sunburst gold-green dial of the “Hulk” for a gloss black dial pulling off a more restrained look reminiscent of the original “Kermit”.

Case specifications of 41mm in 904L steel with the new tapered lugs, attached to a 21mm-19mm tapering dive-ready bracelet, with a full Chromalite lume dial and a Cerachrom bezel, and a 3235 movement to make it identical to its “LN” brother if not for its green bezel that has been kept forward from its predecessor. 

The choice of going back to black with the dial and the return to elegant proportions have made the “LV” reference a less flashy and more elegant alternative to its very popular sunburst Maxi-case predecessor, the “Hulk”. (Retail price $10,800)

Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” 126613LB

The Rolex Submariner 126613LB “Bluesy” is another model in the dive watch lineup that has the usage of a very sought-after color, blue, with the dial receiving a full sunburst treatment in bright blue and a matching Cerachrom bezel. 

The “excuse” for the model to receive a daring color is its main highlight, its combination of materials, 904L Steel, and Yellow-Rolesor (Rolex’s own proprietary metals). In this case, the model is fundamentally steel, with a “solid yellow gold” bezel, bracelet center link, insert on the clasp, hands, indexes, and bezel markings. 

It is identical in technical and sizing specifications to the 41mm by 12.5mm Date Submariner. Therefore, it makes for a more premium variation of the standard Steel Submariner, with the flash of gold, without the inconveniences of the excess weight and fragility of its full gold variation, which has a price tag of nearly triple this model.

The “Bluesy” has been an essential model in the collection since 1984 and was the pioneer of the combination-gold watch craze during the 80s. We are returning to those times with gold variations becoming popular again. (Retail price $15,600)

Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600

The Rolex Sea-Dweller 126600 celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Sea-Dweller and brings forth the return of the “Single-red line Sea-Dweller text” on the dial, reminiscent of the original 1957 prototypes. 

Controversial about this model is the usage of a 43mm case (with a black dial and a larger fully graduated Cerachrom bezel) instead of the Submariner matching diameter of its predecessors that was loved by its die-hard fans as “Sleeper Submariners”.

It is the first Sea-Dweller to feature a Cyclops for its date window; this is simply Rolex being “Rolex”, always innovating, having found a new way for the Cyclops to withstand its 1,220m dive watch capabilities. 

This model comes standard with a helium escape valve and is the entry point in the collection for saturation divers. Its usage of a larger in diameter 43mm 904L Steel case makes it a very legible and usable tool watch, especially underwater. It also allows the watch to disperse its 15mm thickness better without looking too chunky. 

Also, an upgrade is a 22mm wide Oyster bracelet that tapers to 19mm at the Glidelock clasp, making for a better wearing experience. Due to the wider acceptance of gold watches, Rolex offers the Sea-Dweller 43 in a combination variant too, featuring a full black dial and matching bezel. (Retail price $13,250)

Rolex Deepsea 136660

Rolex first introduced the “Deepsea” nameplate back in 2008, an era where larger-sized watches were trending, allowing the brand to fit a monster of a timepiece in its dive-watch lineup, that was the 44mm Deepsea 116660. 

The Deepsea was also a flex on how far the brand was willing and capable of innovating on its original dive watch concept to release a model with a stupendous depth rating of 3,900m, thanks to its Ring-Lock-System, and a larger case.

44mm in diameter and 17.7mm thick, what is most impressive about the Deepsea is the elegant and highly technical feature-packed design that allows itself to be harmonious in proportions, design, and luxury, with its far-less capable and more versatile siblings; therefore allowing it to still be a wearable watch for an average sized wrist. 

The Deepsea is now in its third iteration with the 136660 reference. The 126660 updated model in 2018 featured a shorter lug-to-lug measurement, wider bracelet, and thinner lugs, allowing for better proportions and a better fit on the wrist; it also featured an updated movement with the 3235. 

The 136660, in 2022, had minor adjustments made to the height of the bezel, a “substantial 8% increase” in the size of the date window, and the lack of a flip lock extension. This model comes with a black dial paired with a fully graduated black Cerachrom bezel and is offered with a special D-Blue dial to commemorate James Cameron’s expedition to the bottom of the Mariana trench. (Retail Price $14,200)

Rolex Deepsea Challenge 126067

Rolex’s relentless pursuit to push the envelope within its dive watch segment finally yielded a new production model in 2022, the Deepsea Challenge, with an unworldly 11,000m of water resistance, made to conquer the deepest point known to man.

To achieve such a feat, the new Deepsea Challenge would essentially be a (no-date) bloated version of the now regular Deepsea, using the Ring-Lock-System, with a 50mm diameter case and 23mm of thickness (with 9mm crystal) to endure the elements. To underwhelm its heft and match its capabilities, this is the first model to be made available in “lighter” full titanium (RLX-Titanium), featuring complete brushing and a return to chamfered lugs of old. 

While its large dimensions and niche capabilities will appeal to a smaller target audience, the Deepsea Challenge ensures that Rolex has an offering to match its modern-day capabilities. It is an exercise in tradition from the best dive watchmaker in history to push its limits. This feature-packed diver is for those who seek luxury in novelty. (Retail price $26,000) 

Conclusion

The Submariner and the Sea-Dweller were never meant to be pitted against each other; the Sea-Dweller models are merely an extension of a winning formula that is the iconic Submariner. The Submariner has always set the golden standards in form, function, and refinement for all dive watches to follow. 

Due to this mass appeal, the Submariner can seem boring to the seasoned collector. Therefore the Sea-Dweller and Deepsea models have an identity and history of their own to appeal to their own niche.

The Submariner is a versatile, elegant, and popular choice for the desk diver. The Sea-Dweller range boasts more serious specifications for the saturation diver or for those who simply appreciate the variation, novelty, and fun injected into the lineup.

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual and other models have long been key targets for counterfeit production, with many replicas emerging from China. In April last year, US Customs and Border Protection officers in Indianapolis confiscated hundreds of fake Rolex watches.

The watches came in two shipments that originated in Hong Kong and were destined for Brooklyn, New York. If sold as real, they would have been valued at more than $10 million. 

Benjamin Clymer, the founder of Hodinkee, a top watch magazine, once remarked that there are more fake Rolex watches on the market than all other fakes combined. 

With technological advancements, many producers of counterfeit Rolex watches have improved their manufacturing processes, making it extremely difficult to tell a fake Rolex watch from the real deal.

The Oyster Perpetual collection is our focus today because it embodies the brand’s exquisite craftsmanship and prestige. It features a lineup of watches that all draw inspiration from the original Oyster, which was the first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch created in 1926.  

Since it’s a very popular collection that millions have come to love over the years, thousands of replicas are produced yearly.

Below, we will be discussing everything you need to know about this legendary collection and some telltale signs of questionable authenticity to look for when buying a Rolex Oyster Perpetual.

About Fake Rolex Watches

Do you want to know why there are so many fake Rolex watches in circulation? It is because Rolex is the number one producer of G.O.A.T. models aplenty. Rolex is the apotheosis of Haute Horology. Rolex is the peak of all that luxury stands for.

Rolex is the symbol of class. Rolex is representative of precision, functionality, timeless design, elegance, and sophistication in the world of Horology, and unfortunately, not everyone can afford that.

Rolex has earned so much popularity and reputation over the years, and as they say, being the top dog in the market attracts a pack of hungry wolves. The staggering prevalence of counterfeit Rolex watches on the market makes it the most faked watch brand in the world.

If there are so many Fake Rolexes on the market, it only means one thing: massive demand for them. So the big question is, why would someone opt for a fake without an original? Well, let’s look at it this way, the demand for fake Rolex watches can be attributed to various factors, including the prestige of owning a Rolex watch.

However, Rolex has meticulous control over supply. So unlike other luxury brands, the Swiss Marque adopts a strategy of gradual production increase instead of rapid expansion to maintain controlled growth and stability. With an estimated annual revenue of over $8 billion, Rolex has created exclusivity and desirability around its products, which explains why owning a Rolex is considered an achievement.

This high demand, coupled with carefully controlled supply, has led to a surge in the availability of imitators of varying quality. For instance, the infamous Canal Street market in New York has long been associated with blatant replicas sold at dirt-cheap prices. Interestingly, they have also improved their craft and produced deceptive copies to deceive unsuspecting buyers willing to pay a premium price.

The Federation of the Swiss Watch industry reports that counterfeiters produce approximately 1.6 million fake Rolex watches annually, in stark contrast to the 1 million original ones produced by the company.

The availability of fake Rolex watches, blatantly obvious and deceptively well-made, poses a real challenge to the company. Despite this, the watch’s relentless demand and shortage of authentic pieces demonstrate Rolex’s enduring appeal and desirability among consumers and collectors alike.

What Makes the Rolex Oyster Perpetual So Special?

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a sophisticated and elegant masterpiece combining intricate detailing, exceptional craftsmanship, and remarkable reliability. It was in 1926 that Rolex launched the legendary ‘Oyster’ case, which was the world’s first case to be water- and dust-proof.

The Oyster case was hermetically sealed and featured a screw-down crown which allowed it to withstand depths of up to 100 meters. Years passed, and the first self-winding mechanical ‘Perpetual’ movement was released in 1931.

These two important inventions merged to form the Rolex Oyster Perpetual and would serve as the foundation for millions of Rolex watches from that point on, making it extremely popular.

From its groundbreaking creation as the world’s first waterproof and dustproof wristwatch in 1926 to its triumphs in the English Channel swim and record-breaking land speed races, the Oyster Perpetual has cemented itself as an icon of endurance and precision.

Below we highlight the captivating legacy of the Oyster Perpetual and its enduring impact on the world of timekeeping.

• Classic Style and Design

The Oyster Perpetual embodies an incredibly well-made construction and democratic pricing; it represents the purest distillation of Hans Wilsdorf’s vision of creating the definitive Swiss-made wristwatch.

• Timeless Form and Function

The Oyster Perpetual today inherits the legacy of the original Oyster in addition to avant-garde technicalities. This emphasis on durability and reliability has remained a hallmark of the Oyster Perpetual line.

• Direct Descendant of the Original Oyster

The Oyster Perpetual name reflects the two foundational elements of its creation. “Oyster” refers to the pioneering waterproof case, and “Perpetual” signifies the self-winding movement invented by Rolex in 1931. Over time, the Oyster’s Perpetual name became a prefix for various models within the Rolex collection, symbolizing their water resistance and automatic movement.

• Excellent Chronometric Precision

Oyster Perpetual features in-house, self-winding movements that are COSC-certified and built to exceptional standards. Incorporating advanced technologies, such as the Parachrom hairspring and Paraflex shock absorber, enhances accuracy, stability, and shock resistance.

• Timeless Choice for Men and Women

The Oyster Perpetual’s popularity transcends gender, with its more diminutive sizes initially appealing to women. However, the introduction of the 39mm model in 2015 and the 41mm model in 2020 also expanded its appeal to men. 

The watch’s design, characterized by its curved lines, slim lugs, and polished and brushed surfaces, has remained remarkably consistent since its launch in 1931. This enduring design and its versatility allow the Oyster Perpetual to complement both casual and formal attire effortlessly.

The Oyster Perpetual remains Rolex’s hallmark of intricate detailing that will continue to exude sophistication, presence, and elegance. This explains why it has become the Holy Grail for watch enthusiasts, with everyone longing to be part of the elite few who possess it, making it a target for counterfeiters.

How to Spot a Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual

We have already established that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is a direct progeny of the premier watertight Rolex Oyster timepiece manufactured in 1926. Apart from being the world’s first patented waterproof watch, the Oyster Perpetual bears the brand’s founding legacy and carries the classic and timeless spirit of its era.

The Swiss Customs Service reported that approximately 40 million counterfeit watches are released into circulation each year, and we know that Rolex watches make up the highest numbers there.

Today, with technological advancements, counterfeit Oyster Perpetual watches are looking so good and so close to the original that identifying an authentic one is quite a challenge. But there is always a way out. To help you distinguish between a fake and a real Rolex Oyster Perpetual, we have put together this detailed list of 10 factors below.

Watch Price

The Oyster Perpetual is one of the brand’s long-established models, and the brand seems to be constantly increasing the price as the months roll by. But, at the time of writing this article, the retail price for the smallest model of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual starts at $5,500 and increases with size.  

The new 2020 update introduced the Rolex Oyster Perpetual in 28mm, 31mm, 34mm, 36mm, and 41mm sizes with enchanting stand-out colorful dials that increased the appeal for Oyster Perpetual watches.

The price of a new Oyster Perpetual 41mm model, which is powered by Rolex’s new-generation Caliber 3230 movement, is $6,400 on the brand’s website at the moment.

However, new Rolex watches can be hard to find as the brand does not sell anything online, so to purchase one, you will have to get on the waitlist of any of Rolex’s 1816 authorized retailers around the world. This can sometimes be hard for prospective buyers without an established relationship with an authorized distributor, which leads people to the gray market. 

On the secondary market, Oyster Perpetual watches command higher prices. Expect to spend around $10,000 for the 41mm Ref. 124300 (or even up to $30,000 for the coveted Tiffany dial) and around $8,000 for the 36mm Ref. 126000.

It is good to be guided by these facts because while everyone loves a great discount, a Rolex Oyster Perpetual with a really low price might indicate more risk than reward.

A deep discount for such an in-demand timepiece like the Oyster Perpetual is a red flag. Period. It doesn’t matter if the vintage market is highly reputable because there are many scammers out there who sell items through trustworthy marketplace websites with great reviews too. 

If the price of the Oyster Perpetual is too good to be true, it probably is. If the low prices are so stunning that it isn’t available anywhere else, then you should figure out quickly that there’s a good reason for that – the watch is not real.

Unless you are buying from an authorized dealer, be suspicious of stores offering highly discounted Oyster Perpetual watches because there’s a good chance you’d wind up paying for a counterfeit timepiece or get absolutely nothing in return.

Serial and Reference Number

Every Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch comes with a distinctive serial number. The serial number or unique identifier can be found engraved between the watch casing lugs, under the bracelet, situated at 6 o’clock, and is equally listed on the papers (or certificate) from Rolex.

Each number corresponds to a particular year or period in which the watch was manufactured, giving you valuable knowledge on craftsmanship, authenticity, and even cult status.

Also called the model number, the reference number of your Rolex watch is a 4 – 6 digit code engraved by Rolex in every single timepiece. You can usually find it on your Oyster Perpetual between the lugs on the side of the case at the 12 o’clock position, between the bracelet. 

The Rolex reference number is equally listed on the papers from Rolex and provides useful information about the model or collection. It also tells you what material your watch is made from. Generally, the first two to four digits tell us the model or collection (i.e. whether it is an Oyster Perpetual collection, a Submariner, Sea-Dweller, or GMT-Master). 

Depending on the digits in the mix, you will be able to identify whether your Rolex watch is made of stainless steel, Everose Rolesor (a combination of stainless steel and Everose gold), Rolesium (a melange of stainless steel and platinum) or 18K Yellow/White gold. It’s best not to rely on the image alone to ascertain the watches’ inherent value. 

The reference number also determines the bezel type, whether it is engraved, engine-turned, fluted, totable, or hand-crafted. A fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch will feature a misplaced serial number or a reference number that does not match the design, materials, and model or the production year of the watch.

Again many counterfeit Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches do not have their serial or reference numbers engraved on them. Rolex has been engraving these unique numbers on their watches since the 1920s, and they always engrave them deeply into the metal. Replicas often inscribe serial numbers with acid.

Case Finishing

The devil is in the details, they say, and we know very well that it is the tiny details that make or mar the entire timepiece at the end of the day.

The finishing of the case of any watch is a major determinant of how the overall look, feel, and design will be. The finish of a case is a manufacturing process in which the surface is manipulated by polishing, brushing, and/or beveling to render an attractive surface appearance to the metal.

The price of a watch can even be justified or criticized based on the quality of the case finishing so this is a very important point. As expected from an ultra high-end brand like Rolex with over 100 years of high precision manufacturing techniques, the case always displays a superlative artisanal hand finishing capacity.

Every Rolex Oyster Perpetual receives an initial polish from a machine, but after that, it is finished and polished by hand. The finishing is often perfect, and there has never been a report of visible imperfections.

To identify a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual, examine the case closely for a high level of finishing. There should be fine details that give the case a sharp, elegant appearance. A finely polished case reflects light beautifully offering the watch a luxurious and sophisticated look.

Apart from polishing, brushed finishes are also commonly used. Straight grain and circular grain brushing are used on the more circular parts of the case, such as the case back, and the Oyster Perpetual Ref. 126000 perfectly illustrates this with a fine circular grain under the lugs and around the case back.

The case of a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual will display a very shallow level of brushing that will allow the polished surface to shine through (brushing is usually done after polishing). The lines of the case will also appear soft, dull, and smoothed over rather than crisp, sharp and reflective, and smooth as possible.

You may also notice that the hairlines don’t appear uniformly parallel, the brushing of the top and side of the case sort of ‘leaks’ into the chamfer, and the surface of the hairline finish doesn’t have a grippy surface or isn’t pronounced.

Any sign of imperfection or flaw in the finishing of the case is not something you should overlook, as it might be a fake watch.

Crown

Laser-etched Crown

Rolex is no stranger to replicas. The brand knows that many of its iconic models have been imitated by counterfeiters and is doing all it can to put an end to this. In 2002, a minuscule detail was introduced as an additional security feature to checkmate the illegal act. 

Rolex decided to engrave a crown on the sapphire glass. The laser-etched crown is so small that it cannot be seen with the naked eye. Technically, the crown is not engraved or etched on top of the protective sapphire glass but inside it. 

The easiest way to check if your Oyster Perpetual watch has this crown is to shine a flashlight at an angle on the sapphire glass. While the light is on it, take a look at the glass from the opposite end. The crown is located at the 6 o’clock position on the sapphire glass and is identical to the Rolex coronet logo, but this one features a laser-etched ‘S’ for service within. 

Even though it’s incredibly difficult to replicate since the crown is embedded within the sapphire glass, fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches also come with counterfeit laser-etched crowns, so don’t assume you’re safe just yet if you spot a watch with one.

Coronet Logo

Another red flag is a misplaced or missing crown logo. The notable Rolex coronet logo is a majestic five-point crown found on every dial of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. It is typically placed at 12 o’clock, below the sizable triangular dial marker. 

Screw-down Crown

The crown of your Rolex Oyster Perpetual is the tiny knob located at 3 o’clock. It is an important component that allows you to control the movement of the watch and adjust the time settings.

A genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual uses a screw-down Twinlock winding crown equipped with a double waterproof system. All contemporary Rolex watches have the coronet on the crown, and so does the Oyster Perpetual. 

The Triplock crown of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is marked with a little dash underneath it. Sometimes it is protected by an integral crown guard, like in the case of the Oyster Perpetual Air-King, but smaller models like the Oyster Perpetual 36mm do not have a crown guard.

Viewing a fake and original crown guard side by side reveals that the counterfeit ones always have a more pointed appearance when compared to the genuine crown guards.

Watch Weight

The weight of a genuine Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch varies and differs from model to model, but if you have access to a scale, the weight is often between 100 and 160 grams for the Oystersteel models. 

When Rolex combines materials for the watch and uses a mix like Rolesor, which has a mileage of gold and Oyster Steel, or gold, the weight will be affected significantly and will fall between 200 to 270 grams.

That said, a real Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch will always have some weight and even feel slightly heavier than it looks. A large number of watches in the Oyster Perpetual collection are crafted with Oystersteel, which is a steel alloy specific to Rolex. 

The quality is way higher than 316L stainless steel as it belongs to the 904L steel family. As a result, it feels heavier and sturdier than regular watches. Of course, the silver and gold models are even heavier than Oystersteel, so be sure to check the weight of your Oyster Perpetual watch before buying it.

A watch that feels feather-light is made with inferior materials. If your Rolex watch doesn’t have the expected heft, you are probably dealing with a counterfeit.

Dial

The dial is essentially the face of the watch and is the first thing people notice because it acts as a background and carries certain indications, such as the hour markers and handset. It is one of the most important features of a watch because, apart from its time-telling function, it sets the tone for our reaction to the entire timepiece.

If you have been lucky enough to hold many Rolex watches in your hands, your eyes would have developed to the point where you can have an instinctive feeling about what is right and what is not.

Like every other component, the dial of the Oyster Perpetual watch is crafted entirely in-house to the highest standards. High-tech machinery and traditional techniques by hand are used to meticulously place every detail to the utmost precision and in perfect alignment.

The dial of the Oyster Perpetual generally features a solid dial color with a fine combination of circular, triangular, or rectangular lume-filled hour markers.

At the moment, there are many available dial colors in the Oyster Perpetual collection, including turquoise blue, green, candy pink, bright blue, silver, bright black, and the latest addition, a Celebration motif featuring multi-colored bubbles on a turquoise backdrop.

The majority of these dials feature a sunray pattern (etched super fine lines) that radiates out from the center while others have a glossy surface akin to the colorful lacquer ‘Stella’ dials.

To identify a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, check the date aperture to see if the edges are wobbly, too small, or too large. Look out for small spelling mistakes, mismatched font style and size, awkward spacing of features, crooked or misplaced text, and misaligned hour and minute markers.

The Cyclops glass at 3 o’clock is made to magnify the date underneath by 2.5x legibility, and the date is instantaneous, which means it automatically jumps to the next date at midnight. Again the Cyclops glass is never flat. Never. It always protrudes like a bubble slightly above the sapphire glass. Whatever appears to be substandard or aesthetically off is worthy of closer inspection.

Hands & Indices

The hands and indices of a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch are always sharply finished. Even though the configuration of the hour markers might differ between the 36mm and 41mm models when compared with their smaller siblings, they are always refined. 

Check for hour markers that are not perfectly refined or are unsymmetrical with a visibly cheaper quality. Often the smaller models come with a single luminous baton positioned at each marker except for the 12 o’clock marker. 

The larger models, on the other hand, feature double baton markers at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions for enhanced legibility. Rolex uses a special kind of lume (Chromalight) on the dials of certain watches, which has an afterglow that lasts longer in the dark than Super-LumiNova. 

The finishing of the hands should also be superlative. The ticking of the second hand is another important indication that helps you identify a fake Oyster Perpetual. A real Rolex watch should have a second hand that just sweeps smoothly across the dial without pausing to mark each second. 

If you hear that “tick, tick, tick” sound from the second hand, the watch is powered by a quartz movement and is fake.

Caseback

Another way to identify a counterfeit Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch is by looking at the rear cover of the case. The caseback is what protects the interior components of the watch. Apart from the Sea-Dweller models, Rolex does not engrave words, numbers, or logos on the outside of their case backs at all. 

The Sea-Dweller is the only known model to feature the words “Rolex Oyster Original Escape Valve” engraved in an arc-like manner on the back of the case.

If the caseback of a supposed Oyster Perpetual watch features engravings or is transparent and allows you to view the inner workings, then it is most likely a fake one.

Movement

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual uses a self-winding Perpetual movement. This means the watch is constantly wound by the wrist’s movement of the wearer. The in-house patented movement is certified as a chronometer by the COSC. The Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) is an organization that determines the accuracy and precision of high-end watches using several parameters. 

Each of these movements is further scrutinized at Rolex’s laboratory for precision, rate stability, self-winding capabilities, and power reserve. A fake Rolex watch will most likely be powered by a quartz movement which will reflect in the motion of the second hand.

The high-quality movement in the Oyster Perpetual gives it a smooth and continuous sweep across the dial (about 28,800 per hour). Even though some fake Rolex watches come with Swiss-made movements, the second hand still jumps rather than sweeps. If it sweeps, however, your best bet is to take a step further and investigate everything the movement inside the watch. 

Unfortunately, this will mean opening the case back lock, and you need specific tools for this. Once inside, examine the finishing and look for an engraved ”Rolex” on the movement as some fake movements do not bother to include this detail. All the current models of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual use either the caliber 3230 or the smaller caliber 2232.

Bracelet

A real Oyster Perpetual bracelet feels robust, strong, solid, and well-built. Like the overall feel of the watch, a quality bracelet will have some weight to it because it is manufactured exclusively from superlative materials. 

Any visible difference in weight and quality is worthy of further investigation. The signature Oyster bracelet with the Rolex Glidelock extension system is a common feature on all Oyster Perpetual watches. 

Ask and answer the following questions; Does the clasp snap open and shut easily? Is the entire bracelet incredibly engineered? What about the fit and feel? Again is the engraving on the bracelet well executed? 

Why You Should Avoid Fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual Watches

Back in April 2020, about 7000 counterfeit Rolex watches were crushed under the orders of federal authorities by a multi-ton double-drum vibrating roller in Philade

The gravity of the prevailing fake watch enterprise made Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH) start up a publicity campaign with one message; “Fake Watches Are For Fake People.”

Joining the waiting list for a Rolex Oyster Perpetual can feel like waiting for a shooting star, so most people take the shortcut and opt for fakes instead. However, here are five reasons why rocking a fake watch is a terrible idea.

• Poor Quality and Performance: Original luxury watches are meticulously crafted using high-quality materials and undergo rigorous testing to ensure optimal performance. Conversely, we can’t say the same for fake watches.

• Legal and Ethical Implications: buying and wearing fake luxury watches in some parts of the US, France, and China is an outright offense. Customs agents will seize them and bag you hefty fines and, in worse cases, enough time behind bars.

• Limited Lifespan: Real luxury watches are built to last for decades, with models like Oyster Perpetual emphasizing longevity. In contrast, fake watches have short lifespans and quickly get worse with time.

• Reputation and Resale Value: We can’t say this enough, but wearing a fake watch can make you look ‘dumb’ among people who know the original, instantly tarnishing your reputation and credibility.

• Impact on the Luxury Watch Industry: Lastly, you’re hurting the original brand that produces the timepiece by wearing a fake luxury watch. It also means you’re encouraging the fraud behind it.

lphia. This act was carried out in front of press cameras to send a strong message to would-be counterfeiters and their prospective buyers. The offender was also sent to jail.

In March 2023, a music manager, Emmanuel Odunlami, was stabbed to death in the UK over a fake luxury watch worth over $300,000. Fake watches abound to gratify the desires of people who cannot access the real deal but still want to portray the same status and prestige associated with ultra-high-end brands like Rolex and Patek Philippe.

People also opt for fake watches to pose an air of superiority to uninformed people of low status. However, fake watches are illegal. Unlawfully copying the name, logo, and other trademarked elements of a brand to design a replica aesthetically is a crime.

How to Ensure You Buy a Real Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Spotting a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch can be tough but not impossible. That said, you can take responsibility and do something about it. Here are five tips to help you get the real deal.

• Do Your Research

To ensure you get the real Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch, you need to take some time to properly research the product before you buy it. The web is one of the best resources out there to help you out, especially if you have not yet seen the model you want up close.  

Read through blogs and forums about the Oyster Perpetual and learn first-hand from users about the watch model you want to buy. Post whatever questions you may have on social media and some collectors’ forums. 

You could also ask your friends and family what they think about the retailer (if you hope to buy it from the grey market) and the product. Get the right information concerning the movement, bezel, dial, case, and bracelet to help you determine the authenticity of the watch before buying.

• Always Buy from a Reputable Seller

There are a few ways to purchase a Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. The first and most secure way will be to acquire one from an authorized Rolex retailer. There are 317 authorized dealers across the United States, meaning there is one in every city. 

This way, a genuine Oyster Perpetual watch is guaranteed, and you get your product with a certificate of authenticity, a 5-year warranty that covers replacement parts and labor, complete papers, and everything there is.

Unfortunately, stores are regularly out of stock, so I can’t guarantee you’ll find one as soon as you hit the streets in search of it, as there might be a long waitlist for such a popular model. Your best bet will be to develop a relationship with your local Rolex boutique and also join their waiting list statistics by getting your name down.

The next place to find an Oyster Perpetual watch is in the thriving and rich secondary market, also called the grey market. This is where you’ll need to carefully examine and vet the timepiece before purchase to ensure authenticity and quality.

Reviews are among the top ways to figure out how safe a seller is, so carry out an extensive search on the reputation of the seller. As a general rule, retailers with a high number of feedback ratings and a positive feedback score of over 90% indicate that the seller is reputable.

A reputable dealer would have affiliations with respected watchmaking organizations, and it’s also worth checking social media channels to see if the retailer has a genuine following.

• Ask For Photos And Documents

If you are getting your Oyster Perpetual from a brick-and-mortar store, there should be a showroom where you can inspect and physically try out the watch while being assisted by an expert. 

But if you’re getting your luxury watch online, it is compulsory, very compulsory, to have images and details of the actual watch provided to you by the retailer. I say actual images because sometimes the retailer might have just factory images.

Most watch experts recommend completely servicing your Rolex every three to five years, so if you are getting a pre-owned Oyster Perpetual watch, ask the retailer whether the timepiece has been serviced and if any parts have been replaced. If it has been repaired previously, ask for the original pieces. Remember to request the paperwork or documents for the repairs during the buying process. 

The Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program allows people to purchase used Rolex watches from the crowned house with official dealers. Every timepiece obtained through this program is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity, the famous green seal, and a 2-year international warranty for pre-owned watches without papers.

For pre-owned watches from the grey market, ask for original boxes, papers, and sales receipts, as these all contribute to the provenance of a watch. However, the absence of these items does not mean the watch is fake. They only help in verifying the authenticity and legal ownership.

• Do Not Buy On Impulse

Impulse purchases are triggered by an irresistible force to buy an item without fully evaluating its consequences. Retailers love impulsive shopping habits and will encourage prospective buyers to give in to an impulse buy. 

This usually has a lot of disadvantages because it stems from our psychological weakness. First off, it could lead to many buying mistakes, including buying a fake Rolex Oyster Perpetual watch. 

It could also lead to financial strain, feelings of regret, and other negative outcomes. To avoid this, clarify your budget for the Oyster Perpetual watch and stick to it. Give the purchase time while you do proper research, and purchase it only when you’re in the right state of mind.

• Get An Expert’s Opinion

Rolex experts have a deep knowledge of every aspect of the brand and the watches produced. Many true experts, like the seasoned team at Exquisite Timepieces, have developed the ability to identify an authentic Oyster Perpetual watch. They can also recognize its corresponding parts, such as the case, bracelet, dial, hands, and so forth, with several years of experience. 

Conclusion

With all that being said, success procuring your Rolex Oyster Perpetual! Even though the astronomically high demand for it, which outstrips supply by far, might make buying an authentic one a daunting operation, the process is very rewarding and can also be a smart investment option depending on the model you opt for. Explore our iconic collection of pre-owned Rolex watches at Exquisite Timepieces.

Some models rise above the rest in the horological world to achieve iconic status. Born from an unlikely collaboration between Rolex and Zenith, the Zenith-powered Daytona 165xx series is a legendary branch in the Daytona family that marked a significant evolution in the model’s history.

Its commercial success is partly due to its development into a “brand within a brand”. Dedicated Daytona collectors often set themselves apart from the broader group of Rolex enthusiasts. A ridiculous example of this phenomenon was demonstrated by the record-setting sale of Paul Newman’s own Rolex Daytona to an anonymous bidder for over $17 million.

But that watch was from the first generation of Daytonas. Soon after, the brand was completely reformed by the Zenith-powered second generation, which brought many significant upgrades besides its movement. The rarity of the short production run and the iconic characteristics described within this article made the Rolex Zenith Daytona the ultimate racing icon.

About the Rolex Zenith Daytona

This particular model marks a significant turning point in the history of the Daytona series. It marks the first Rolex Daytona model that featured an automatic movement instead of the original hand-winding one. And this movement was the famous Zenith El-Primero movement. 

This caliber wasn’t made in-house by Rolex; however, it had heavy modifications that distinguished it from the original construction. Over the Zenith Daytona’s limited production run, a stainless steel, an 18k yellow gold version, and a combination of both were also featured.

History of the Rolex Zenith Daytona

Rolex’s Daytona collection, named after the famous Daytona Beach raceway in Florida, was launched in 1963. It quickly gained acclaim for its precision and reliability in motorsport timing.

The first generation of Rolex’s racing line had a hand-winding mechanical movement when it was manufactured until one day, in 1988, the brand released the very first automatic Daytona. It was powered by a modified Zenith El-Primero movement. 

Rolex drastically altered the original high-beat El Primero, reducing its frequency from 36,000 vibrations per hour to a more standard 28,800. Together with some additional changes, this collaboration resulted in the Rolex Calibre 4030.

The watch created has started a new avalanche of desirability and popularity for the Daytona collection. The Zenith movements were only featured until 2000, at which point Rolex unveiled its in-house caliber 4130. New Daytona models from then on only featured the caliber 4130.

The Rolex Zenith Daytona Caliber 4030

The Zenith “El Primero” movement was known for its high-beat frequency, date function, and integrated automatic chronograph design. Then Rolex came along and chose to use this movement for the Daytona after making several changes to it:

Beat Rate

As mentioned earlier, Rolex reduced the frequency from 36,000 vibrations per hour to 28,800 vibrations per hour. Thus, they have managed to increase the longevity and reliability of the movement.

Date Function Removal

The Zenith El Primero movement originally included a date function. Rolex removed this feature to keep Daytona’s design clean and focused on the chronograph function.

Chronograph Modification

Rolex completely redesigned the chronograph mechanism. They aimed to increase the durability of the watch while simplifying the user experience with these changes.

The original El Primero used a lateral clutch engagement system for the chronograph function (Imagine two gears sitting side by side on a table. When you want to engage the chronograph, you push one gear into the other, meshing their teeth together. This starts the chronograph mechanism). 

In contrast, Rolex modified it to a vertical clutch system (imagine stacking those two gears one on top of the other, so when you engage the chronograph, you’re pressing down the top gear onto the bottom one. This system generally allows for a smoother start without the jump seen in lateral clutches).

This change reduced wear on the mechanism when the chronograph was engaged for extended periods of time and improved its accuracy at the same time.

Balance and Hairspring

Rolex replaced the Zenith’s balance wheel (the wheel that oscillates back and forth, it’s responsible for keeping time in the watch) and hairspring (makes the balance wheel swing back and forth at a consistent rate) with its own, featuring Microstella regulating nuts (adjustable weights on the balance wheel that Rolex uses to fine-tune the accuracy of the watch) and a Breguet overcoil (a specific design of the hairspring, that helps the balance wheel swing more consistently and improves the watch’s accuracy), respectively. This allowed for more accurate adjustments and better resistance to temperature variations and shocks.

Escapement

The escapement in a watch transfers energy to the timekeeping element (the balance wheel) and ensures the timepiece keeps time accurately. It’s the heart of the watch. It involves two main components: the escape wheel (toothed wheel driven by the watch’s mainspring) and the pallet fork (a lever with two jeweled ‘pallets’ that interact with the teeth of the escape wheel).

In the original Zenith El Primero movement, a ‘Swiss lever’ escapement was used. However, Rolex decided to replace this with their own in-house design, known as the ‘Chronergy’ escapement, when they adopted the El Primero movement for the Daytona. The Chronergy escapement is an improved version of the Swiss lever escapement with modifications to the escape wheel and pallet fork that increase efficiency and reduce energy consumption.

Finishing and Decoration

When Rolex acquired the Zenith El Primero movements to use in their Daytona watches, they applied their unique aesthetic standards before putting them into production, such as Engraving, Polishing, and Gold Plating.

These modifications transformed the high-beat El Primero into the Caliber 4030, a movement that matched Rolex’s standards at the time. They’ve managed to improve the precision, reliability, and longevity of the movement before putting it onto the production line. It was these significant changes that helped elevate the Daytona’s status.

Caliber 4030 vs Caliber 4130: What Changes Did Rolex Make For Its In-House Movement?

The Caliber 4130 is the first movement entirely developed and manufactured in-house by Rolex, which replaced the Zenith-based Caliber 4030. It features a longer power reserve of 72 hours. It also has a similar vertical clutch mechanism to its predecessor for the chronograph function. 

However, the 4130 was the first Rolex caliber to introduce the brand’s “Parachrom Bleu” hairspring (that was unaffected by magnetic fields and was much more shock-resistant).

Rolex Zenith Daytona Watch Models

Rolex Zenith Daytona 16520

The 16520 is the stainless steel Zenith Daytona. Its material provides a sporty aesthetic over the other two models. It launched with either a black or a white dial option. Later on, a silver dial and an exotic “Daytona Paul Newman” dial also became available. The bezel on this specific watch is made out of stainless steel with an engraved tachymeter scale.

Rolex Zenith Daytona 16523

The 16520 is a combination of the stainless steel and the yellow-gold Zenith Daytona. The case and bracelet have a two-tone design, with the central links of the bracelet in gold. It featured the exact same dial options as the 16520 stainless steel model. The bezel on this specific watch is made out of 18k yellow gold, with a similar engraved tachymeter scale.

Rolex Zenith Daytona 16528

The 16520 is the 18k yellow gold Zenith Daytona. Its material gives it a luxurious and prestigious appearance. It featured the exact same dial options as the other two models. The bezel on this specific watch is also made of 18k yellow gold.

What’s Different About the Rolex Zenith Daytona Dial?

Both the Caliber 4030 and the Caliber 4130 Daytona models have a trio of subsidiary dials. Although these dials are positioned in a similar way, they line up in different order at the 3, 6, and 9-hour mark.

The Caliber 4130 models have the running seconds dial at 6 o’clock, while the 12-hour counter at the 9 o’clock position. The Zenith Daytona models have it switched, meaning the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock and the running seconds dial at the 9 o’clock position. 

Both watches have their 30-minute counter at the 6 o’clock position. These subsidiary dials sit closer to each other on the Zenith-powered model, leaning more to the center compared to later models.

The Zenith Daytona also has a thinner set of luminated markers, making it harder to read in low-light conditions. Finally, the ref. 16520 stainless-steel version of the Zenith-powered Daytona uses a different color for its subdial rings on both the black and the white dial version.

How Difficult Is It to Get Your Hands on a Rolex Zenith Daytona?

This watch model has developed a significant following among collectors, and as it ages, interest in it only continues to grow. The Daytona, in general, is often described as a brand within a brand, with its own dedicated group of collectors.

The Zenith-powered Daytona is no exception, and it has appreciated steeply in value over time, especially when new versions of the Rolex Daytona are released​. Introduced as the first self-winding chronograph from Rolex, it marked a significant leap in the brand’s technical prowess.

This watch model also has a reputation for being hard to get a hold of from authorized dealers. Because of this, obtaining one has always been something of a “dark art.”

In addition, the Zenith-powered Daytona has various significant variations in the dial and bezels, which makes it even more appealing to collectors. People who dedicate their lives to obtaining the most iconic watches will always appreciate unique details on a timepiece, such as the different versions of the Zenith Daytona from MK1 to MK5.

To conclude, it’s very difficult to get your hands on a Zenith-powered Rolex Daytona. As its market price keeps growing over time, your competition will not only consist of Rolex enthusiasts but big-money investors as well.

Conclusion

While the Zenith Daytonas are no longer in production, their influence on the horological world remains unchanged. Their legacy extends further than the mechanical watch industry. These timepieces managed to form a worldwide community of racing watch enthusiasts within the Rolex brand. As the watch is likely to keep appreciating in the future, investors and motorsport fans will retain constant competition to get their hands on one.

In the realm of Rolex, few timepieces embody the spirit of adventure quite like the Explorers. With a heritage steeped in exploration and innovation, these iconic wristwatches have become veritable symbols of resilience and precision.

From their early days as tool watches, the Rolex Explorers have evolved and adapted, encapsulating the essence of discovery.

Join us on a captivating voyage as we delve into the fascinating history, compare the legendary Explorer I and Explorer II, and reveal the most notable pieces of this remarkable collection – the 10 best models that have left an indelible mark on the landscape of timekeeping.

Prepare to ignite your passion for horological exploration as we unlock the captivating tales of these timepieces beyond the boundaries of ordinary wristwear.

About the Rolex Explorer

The Rolex Explorer is a renowned collection of professional sports watches that was first introduced in 1953. Designed with the needs of mountaineers and explorers in mind, the Explorer quickly gained popularity among adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts. 

With its simple yet elegant design, robust construction, and accurate timekeeping, the Explorer has become a staple choice for individuals seeking a reliable timepiece. Despite its exceptional quality, the Rolex Explorer remains one of the more affordable options within the Rolex lineup, making it a favorite among collectors and enthusiasts.

History of the Rolex Explorer

The story of the Rolex Explorer began in 1952, a time when the summit of Mount Everest remained unconquered. Rolex, the renowned watchmaker, aimed to have their timepieces accompany climbers on their journey to the peak. 

In that same year, Rolex provided the British climbers with large-size Oyster watches, which would later serve as prototypes for the future Explorer models. The successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay solidified the Explorer’s association with exploration and durability in extreme conditions.

Throughout its history, the Rolex Explorer has achieved notable milestones. The Explorer has been worn by esteemed characters and individuals such as James Bond, Neil Armstrong, and Buzz Aldrin, further cementing its status as a timepiece of choice for adventurers and celebrities alike.

As a result, the Rolex Explorer has gained popularity among collectors and investors due to its rich heritage and lasting appeal.

Rolex Explorer I vs Explorer II

Within the Explorer collection, there are two distinct model families: the Explorer I and the Explorer II. While both models share the Explorer name, they have key differences that set them apart.

The Rolex Explorer I is characterized by its classic and understated design. It features a clean dial with luminous and iconic “369” Arabic numerals and hands, providing excellent legibility. The Explorer I is known for its traditional 36mm stainless steel case, but it briefly appeared in a 39mm case and now exists in both 36 and 40mm versions.

On the other hand, the Rolex Explorer II takes a more rugged approach with its design. Introduced in 1971, the Explorer II was specifically designed for speleologists and cave explorers. 

It features a larger 42mm case, dots and dashes for hour markers, and an additional 24-hour hand, which allows for tracking two timezones simultaneously. The Explorer II has evolved over the years, with the latest reference being the 226570, offering modern features and advancements while staying true to its roots.

Rolex Explorer Models

There have been at least 19 models (the list is not exhaustive) of the Rolex Explorer since 1953, 4 of which are currently still on the production lines of the Genevan factory.

Model	Production Years
Explorer 6150	1953 (Pre-explorer)
Explorer 6350	1953-1955
Explorer 5518/0	1962-1964
Explorer 6610	1955-1959
Explorer 1016/0	1960-1990
Explorer 5500	1958-1967
Explorer 1016 Space-Dweller	Uncertain
Explorer 6429 (Known as “Commando”, very rare)	Uncertain
Explorer II 1655/0	1971-1983
Explorer II 16550	1983-1990
Explorer 14270	1991-2001
Explorer 114270	2002-2010
Explorer II 16570	1989-2011
Explorer II 216570	2011-2021
Explorer 214270	2010-2021
Explorer II 226570	2021-
Explorer 124270	2021-
Explorer 124273	2021-
Explorer 224270	2023-

Prices and Values

Prices for Explorer I and II models in the current production range between $8,700 and $13,300.

Explorer II 226570, 42mm, stainless steel: $10,900

Explorer I 124270, 36mm, stainless steel: $8,150

Explorer I 124273 36mm, stainless steel & yellow gold: $13,300

Explorer I 224270, 40mm, stainless steel: $8,700

On the secondary market, the first 2 models trade for a premium on the retail price. Overall, Rolex Explorer models usually sell for between $4,700 and $18,600 (for a Rolex Explorer 1016) on the pre-owned market. 

One of the most popular pre-owned Explorer is the 214270 reference, a 39mm edition whose first version (Mark 1) came with notoriously short hands as they hadn’t been adjusted up from the previous 36mm version.

An Understated Legacy

While the Explorer may not command the same attention and high prices at auction as some other Rolex models, its significance as a reliable tool watch cannot be understated. From its historical debuts to being associated with James Bond and its endorsement by renowned figures like Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin, the Explorer has garnered a reputation for its versatile elegance.

The Best Rolex Explorer Models

1. Rolex Explorer 40 (ref. 224270)

The newest Rolex Explorer is a faithful update with a larger 40mm case that has lovers of assertively sized sport watches rejoicing. What’s an even bigger change is that the Explorer now exists in two size options (36mm and 40mm).

The dial of the new Explorer has undergone a thoughtful revision, showcasing the “Explorer” name positioned near the top, aligning with the design choice of its smaller 36mm counterpart. This departure from the previous iteration, where the name was located at 6 o’clock on the 39mm version, adds a harmonious touch to the overall aesthetic.

It remains powered by Rolex’s robust 3230 self-winding movement with a 70-hour power reserve and comes fitted on a stainless steel Oyster bracelet. A combination of mostly brushed, and some polished surfaces give it the crisp and straightforward look I love in an everyday timepiece.

The new Rolex Explorer 40 sits at the top of decades of continuous improvements and refinements to the Explorer collection and, as such, embodies the very best of it.

2. Rolex Explorer II White Dial (ref. 226570-0001)

Let’s look at the 2021 Explorer II. It’s got a few new features that make this 42mm sport watch even better than the previous model.

First and foremost, the star of the show is the new 3285 movement that beats at the heart of this timepiece. With an impressive power reserve of 70 hours, this watch keeps ticking even when you decide to take a break.

You can confidently leave it on your dresser for the entire weekend, knowing it will remain in perfect sync until you pick it up again on Monday. The bracelet and clasp have also been redesigned. The bracelet is now wider and more comfortable to wear, and the clasp has been updated with a new, more secure design.

Finally, the hour markers and hands now use new-generation Chromalight luminescent material. This material glows brighter and longer than previous luminescent materials, making it easier to read the time in low-light conditions. These evolutions make the 2021 Explorer II one of the most well-executed Explorer models to date.

3. Rolex Explorer 36 (ref. 124270)

When the Explorer 36 made its highly anticipated debut in 2022, it instantly captured the attention of watch enthusiasts, and it’s easy to see why!

One of the most notable features of this release is the return to a 36mm case size, a change that delighted many devoted followers of the Explorer II. The downsized case brings enhanced comfort to the wearer and broadens its appeal to those with petite wrists.

As an added bonus, the reduced dimensions allow the watch to seamlessly transition from an outdoor companion to an elegant dress watch, offering versatility for any occasion.

But the improvements don’t stop there. The new 3230 movement represents a significant upgrade over its predecessor. This movement boasts a longer power reserve of up to 70 hours, as well as greater accuracy. The size and versatility of the 124270 make it one of the most interesting Explorer watches out there.

4. Rolex Explorer II Black dial (ref. 226570)

Released along with the “Polar” white dial version in 2021, this black edition presents a surprising difference in its dial.

On the black dial of the Rolex Explorer II Black dial, the hour, minute, and 24-hour hands undergo a subtle yet impactful transformation. Crafted from precious white gold, these new hands elevate the design of the watch.

This thoughtful update harmoniously aligns the hands with the markers on the dial, creating a seamless and visually striking ensemble. The choice of white gold for the hands is not merely an aesthetic enhancement but a deliberate design decision.

The contrasting hues of the white gold hands against the black dial create an exquisite interplay of light and shadow. This only adds to the superior pedigree of the 226570 in the Explorer’s team.

5. Rolex Explorer 36 Two-Tone (ref. 124273)

The Rolex Explorer 36 Two-Tone emerges as a captivating rendition of the timeless Explorer 36 watch fusing stainless steel and yellow gold.

This audacious design choice sets it apart from the crowd, exuding an air of confidence and style. The contrasting combination of materials adds a touch of opulence to the timepiece, elevating its aesthetic appeal and making it a true statement piece.

As the focal point of the watch, the black dial exudes simplicity and elegance in equal measure. Its refined design serves as a captivating backdrop for the luminescent Chromalight material, ensuring optimal legibility in even the most dimly lit environments.

Combining a bolder yet elegant look and all the credentials of a time-tested model, the Two-Tone is an Explorer model that stands out.

6. Rolex Explorer 1016

The Rolex Explorer 1016 is a vintage Rolex watch that truly captures the essence of a tool watch. It stands out with distinct features, such as the iconic “369” font. But what makes it exceptional are its two records: it’s the longest-running 4-digit reference, reigning for an incredible 30 years, and it’s the final 4-digit reference in the Rolex catalog, last produced in 1989.

The design of the Explorer 1016 has stood the test of time since its debut in 1953, showcasing a rugged elegance that never goes out of style. In recent years, the Explorer 1016 has gained in popularity, becoming a highly sought-after choice for collectors.

And its rarity only added to its appeal. Prices for the Explorer 1016 can range from around $12,000 to $45,000, depending on its condition and production period. Despite being a vintage watch, the Rolex Explorer 1016 has remained relevant and captivating to this day. Its historical importance and enduring aesthetic appeal make it one of the most notable Explorer models.

7. Rolex Explorer 1655

Initially overlooked, this vintage gem now commands the attention of collectors worldwide. Let’s delve into its intriguing past, unique design, rarity, and enduring appeal.

Designed as a tool watch for daring expeditions and adventures, the Explorer II 1655 embodies Rolex’s unwavering commitment to precision and durability. Its unconventional 24-hour dial, big orange hand (“freccione” in Italian), and steadfast non-rotating bezel set it apart from other Rolex timepieces.

The robust 1970s aesthetics, including the sturdy case and plexiglass crystal, exude a charm that will speak to enthusiasts of the era. While it carries the vintage appeal, the Explorer II 1655 holds its own against modern watches.

Though its 24h dial may require a discerning eye, it adds to the watch’s distinctive character once mastered. The less common 1970s look of the 1655, and its distinctive design features make this Explorer a model to remember.

8. Rolex Explorer 14270

The Rolex Explorer 14270, especially the “Blackout” version, holds a special place among collectors. Released in 1990 as an improvement over the iconic ref. 1016, it featured a gloss dial, sapphire crystal, and distinctive black enamel-filled Arabic numerals.

These unique dial details make the “Blackout” Explorer instantly recognizable and highly sought after by collectors. In fact, these early models are considered the rarest sapphire crystal Rolexes

The Explorer 14270 strikes a balance between vintage and modern aesthetics with upgraded details and a classic 36mm case size. Its comfortable feel and understated presence make it versatile and appealing.

Despite being underrated, the Explorer ref 14270 has a rich history and enduring style. It represents the concept of “youngtimer” in the watch market, gaining collectability. The distinctive aesthetical peculiarities of the 14270 and its sheer scarcity give it a unique position in the Explorer constellation.

9. Rolex Explorer II 16570

The Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16570 holds historical importance as one of the iconic young timer watches. It represents the transitional period between vintage and modern models, offering a blend of cool design, modern features, and accessible prices.

The 16570, positioned between vintage and modern models, features a classic Oyster case made of stainless steel, which hosts Rolex’s 3185 calibre. Its timeless design captures the essence of the Explorer series, with a fixed 24-hour bezel and a clean dial available in white or black. 

The watch’s distinct design elements, such as the angled brushing on the lugs and the textured and graduated bezel, contribute to its overall appeal. One particularly sought-after variation is the white “Polar” dial, which adds a touch of retro charm to the timepiece.

Its availability at a relatively affordable price compared to other Rolex models makes it an excellent choice for watch enthusiasts and collectors alike. The watch’s enduring appeal and value contribute to its status as one of the most appealing Explorer watches.

10. Rolex Explorer 39 (ref. 214270)

The Rolex Explorer 39 214270 introduces some important new features that enhance its appeal. One notable modification is the larger 39mm case diameter, providing a more balanced dial with prominent Arabic numerals.

In addition, the Rolex Explorer 39 214270 retains several key elements from previous editions. The watch continues to uphold its iconic design with a minimalist black time-only dial, baton hour markers, and an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock.

The movement inside the watch remains the 3132 calibre, a COSC-certified self-winding movement known for its reliability and precision. While the 39mm case size deviates from the traditional 36mm diameter of previous Explorers, it offers a contemporary twist and a more balanced dial layout.

The Rolex Explorer 39 214270 represents what Rolex does best: consistent, gradual improvement and mastery of execution.

Conclusion

The Rolex Explorer collection embodies the spirit of adventure and has captivated horological enthusiasts worldwide. From its rich history to its constant technological advancement, it has left an indelible mark.

These 10 best Explorers stand as testaments to the brand’s commitment to excellence, and each one is remarkable in its own right.

Let their tales inspire you to embrace the unknown and pursue your passions. The adventure continues—time is yours to conquer. Which of these Explorers will you slap on your wrist to embark on your horological odyssey?