Category: Rolex

The year was 1969. It was the height of the Cold War between the USA and the USSR. The Vietnam War was at its peak. The murders of Martin Luther King Jr. and Robert F. Kennedy (both assassinated the year before) were sentenced. John Lennon and Yoko Ono staged a bed-in for peace, where they recorded the song “Give Peace a Chance.” The California Zodiac Killer was making headlines. Neil Armstrong became the first man to walk on the moon. 

Amid all those major world events, a lesser-known “bombshell” was about to shake the world of watchmaking. On Christmas Day of 1969, Seiko, a relatively unknown brand outside of Japan, released the world’s first quartz wristwatch and forever changed the watch industry, creating what some watch historians would later call “The Quartz Crisis.”

While many legendary timepiece manufacturers would go belly-up, Rolex survived the crisis, answering Seiko with the Oysterquartz, their own overbuilt, quality quartz movement. Today, those quartz Rolex watches can be purchased for a relative steal compared to the typical automatic Rolex. This article serves as your collector’s guide into the world of the Oysterquartz. 

Quartz vs. Mechanical Movements

A quartz movement is powered by a battery and uses a quartz crystal to keep accurate time. The quartz crystal oscillates at a precise frequency, and this oscillation is used to power the movement of the watch hands. Quartz watches are known for their high level of precision and reliability and require very little maintenance.

On the other hand, a mechanical movement is powered by a winding spring and uses gears and levers to keep accurate time. Mechanical watches are known for their intricate design and craftsmanship and require regular maintenance, such as oiling, to keep them running smoothly.

Quartz watches are generally more accurate than mechanical watches, as they are not affected by temperature changes, shocks, and other environmental factors that can affect the performance of a mechanical movement.

However, many watch enthusiasts consider quartz watches to be inferior to mechanical watches, as they lack the craftsmanship and artistry of a mechanical movement. Quartz watches are also considered less exclusive and more widely available to the public.

One way to quickly tell if a watch is powered by a mechanical movement is the sweep of the second hand, in contrast to the tick, tick, tick of the quartz movement.

Understanding the Quartz Crisis

The railroads were among the major forces in the mid-1800s, driving the need for timekeeping accuracy. After some tragic rail accidents due to pocket watch inaccuracies, the movements were refined, and official time zones were adopted in the US and eventually globally. 

This would be one of the drives behind the birth of a new era of highly accurate watches, and Switzerland would become the de facto capital of watchmaking. That is, until a challenger from the East, Seiko, would introduce the world’s first quartz wristwatch. 

Watchmaking is as much an art as it is a science in Switzerland. Their top luxury brands, like Rolex, are known for their handmade movements crafted by expert artisans. With the advent of quartz wristwatches in the late 60s and 70s, all that seemed in question and sparked a panic, which “sunk” many notable luxury brands and put Omega into bankruptcy. 

Many wondered if Japan would become the future of watchmaking, displacing Switzerland, as quartz movements were far easier to mass-produce, significantly less expensive to manufacture, and more accurate.

Rolex managed to weather the crisis by developing its own in-house quartz movement, the Oysterquartz, while maintaining its focus and commitment to mechanical movements. This approach proved successful, as quartz eventually became synonymous with mass-produced, inexpensive watches that didn’t last generations like the fine, handcrafted timepieces Rolex was known for. 

Rolex Oysterquartz History

In the 1970s, Rolex decided to develop its own quartz movement in response to the growing popularity of quartz watches, which were becoming increasingly accurate and reliable. Rolex teamed up with a group of Swiss watchmakers and engineers to develop the movement named the Beta 21.

The Beta 21 was based on a Japanese quartz movement called the Seiko Astron and was one of the most accurate and reliable quartz movements of its time. Rolex was the first brand to put the Beta 21 in production, followed by other brands such as Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Omega.

The Rolex Oysterquartz was the first watch model to feature the Beta 21 quartz movement, and it was first introduced in 1977. The watch was available in two models, the Datejust and the Day-Date. It combined the precision and reliability of the quartz movement with the classic design and durability of the Rolex Oyster line. 

The Oysterquartz quickly became a highly desirable watch among collectors and enthusiasts. It was in production until 2001 when Rolex decided to discontinue the line and focus on its mechanical timepieces. 

Buying a Pre-Owned Timepiece

When buying a pre-owned luxury watch, such as a Rolex, it’s essential to consider several factors to ensure that you get a high-quality, authentic timepiece.

1.  Research: Before making a purchase, research the different models and styles of Rolex watches. Familiarize yourself with the features and characteristics of the watch you are interested in and its retail price. This will help you identify potential red flags when looking at pre-owned watches.
2. Buy from a reputable seller: Look for a reputable seller, such as a certified jeweler or a licensed pre-owned watch dealer. These sellers will have a reputation to uphold and will be more likely to offer a high-quality, authentic watch.
3. Check the documentation: Make sure that the watch comes with its original documentation, such as the warranty card and instruction manual. These documents must be present to ensure that the timepiece is authentic
4.  Inspect the watch: Carefully inspect the watch for any signs of wear and tear, such as scratches on the case or a worn-out bracelet. Also, look for any inconsistencies in the engravings or markings on the watch, as these can also indicate that the watch is not authentic.
5. Have it professionally assessed: Have the watch inspected by a professional before making your final decision. A professional watchmaker can confirm the watch’s authenticity and check for any potential issues.
6. Consider the price: Keep in mind that pre-owned Rolex watches may be priced higher than their retail value. Compare the price of the timepiece you are considering to its retail price and consider the watch’s condition before making a decision.

By following these tips, you can ensure that you are getting a high-quality, authentic pre-owned Rolex watch.

Rolex Oysterquartz Models

The Rolex Oysterquartz line was initially offered in the Datejust and the Day-Date models. Both models featured the iconic Rolex oyster case, which is waterproof and highly resistant to corrosion.   

1. Rolex Quartz Beta-21 (ref. 5100)

Only 2,000 of these watches were made. It’s theorized that 1,000 were made in white gold and 1,000 in yellow gold. That makes these watches quite rare. The case size is 39mm and fits nicely on the wrist. It offers a magnified date at 3 o’clock. 

This was the first Rolex to feature a synthetic sapphire crystal, a hacking movement (meaning the movement can be stopped to synchronize with other watches), and a quick set date. Some have criticized the style of this timepiece, but to others, it’s a unique stand-out that will surely be a conversation piece. 

Price: $20,472-$30,836 (Source: www.watchcharts.com). 

2. Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust (ref. 17000)

The Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust is a luxury watch that was first introduced by the Swiss watchmaker in 1977.  The watch features a stainless-steel case with a diameter of 36mm and is water-resistant to 100m. 

The case is paired with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown, which helps to protect the movement from water and dust. The dial features a white color with gold hour markers and a date display at 3 o’clock. The watch is available with a stainless-steel bracelet or a leather strap.

One of the most notable features of the Rolex Oysterquartz Datejust is its classic and timeless design. The watch is a perfect example of Rolex’s commitment to precision and reliability while maintaining its classic and timeless design. 

The Oysterquartz Datejust is also highly collectible, thanks to its historical significance as one of the first Swiss-made quartz movements and Rolex’s first and only quartz watch, which was in production for over two decades.

Price: $4,775-$7,119 (Source: www.watchcharts.com). 

3. Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date (ref. 17013)

The Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date was first introduced in 1977, along with the aforementioned Datejust. The watch features a 36mm diameter case, available in yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold, and it’s water resistant to 100m.

The case is paired with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown. The dial features a white color with gold hour markers, and the watch features a day of the week display at 12 o’clock and a date display at 3 o’clock.

The timepiece is available with a matching president bracelet, which was designed specifically for the Day-Date. The Rolex Oysterquartz Day-Date is a highly desirable watch that offers the best of both worlds: the precision and reliability of a quartz movement and the classic design and durability of a Rolex oyster case.

The watch is also highly collectible, given the limited supply and no indication that Rolex will be producing more quartz watches at this time.

Price: $3,921-$5,749 (Source: www.watchcharts.com).

4. Rolex Lady-Datejust (ref. 69173)

The Rolex Lady-Datejust Quartz was first introduced in the late 1980s and early 1990s. It is a smaller version of the Datejust model, designed specifically for women.  

The watch features a 26mm diameter case, available in yellow gold and stainless steel, and it’s water resistant to 100m. The case is paired with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown, which helps to protect the movement from water and dust. 

The dial features a white color with gold hour markers and a date display at 3 o’clock. The watch is available with a matching jubilee bracelet, which was designed specifically for the Lady-Datejust.

Price: $3,279-$5,183 (Source: www.watchcharts.com).

5. Rolex Cellini Quartz (ref. 6623)

The Rolex Cellini Quartz is a dress watch that was first introduced in the late 1990s.  The watch features a 34mm diameter case, available in yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold, and it’s water resistant to 30m. 

The case is paired with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown. The dial features a white color with gold hour markers and a date display at 3 o’clock. The watch is available with a matching leather strap or a matching gold bracelet.

The Rolex Cellini Quartz is a classic dress watch that is designed with simplicity and elegance in mind. The watch features a timeless design that is perfect for formal occasions. The watch’s dimensions and technical specifications make it an ideal fit for a man’s or a woman’s wrist, making it easy to wear and comfortable. 

Price: $4,000 – 18c white gold version (Source: www.exquisitetimepieces.com).

Conclusion

There’s something luxurious about a mechanical movement, both in the way it’s made, requiring more human involvement than the assembly line, automated manufacturing of the quartz, and in the way the movement functions and looks. However, there are undeniable benefits to a quartz movement. 

The Rolex Oysterquartz line offers the best of both worlds, the iconic design and craftsmanship of Rolex married with the accuracy of a quartz movement. Most horologists and collectors favor the beauty and intricacy of the handmade, mechanical movements and expect that in a luxury timepiece. 

However, the Oysterquartz created a unique hybrid and became a cult favorite among some collectors. The Oysterquartz also provides an opportunity to get a Rolex at a lower price point. 

What connects Sir Winston Churchill, Steve McQueen, Martin Luther King Jr., Elvis Presley, John F. Kennedy, and Paul Newman? Besides all being famed for their respective accomplishments in their fields, they all purportedly owned Rolex watches. 

We all know celebrities can be paid to endorse and wear a particular brand, but what drives so many of the world’s icons to choose a brand like Rolex? They don’t need to project status; everyone already knows of their success. What they likely recognized in Rolex is the brand’s unparalleled engineering quality, abiding beauty, and remarkable ability to hold their value. 

Rolex reminds me of Mercedes in many ways, especially the way Mercedes built their cars up through the 1980s. During those eras, their automobiles were handcrafted and overbuilt. In fact, some of their models were known to surpass 1,000,000 miles! It was common to hear people compare the closing of a Mercedes door to that of a bank vault door. 

I remember the first time I heard a Rolex bracelet clasp open and close; it gave me the same feeling. My father bought several Mercedes cars in the 70s and 80s, and he sold all of them for a profit because the supply in the US was limited, with long waiting lists for a new Mercedes, something Rolex is also known for.

GUIDE TO ROLEX

Rolex is a Swiss luxury watch manufacturer known for its high-quality, precision timepieces. The company was founded in 1905 and has since become one of the most recognizable and respected names in the watch industry. 

The brand offers a wide range of watches for men and women, including the iconic Submariner and the elegant Day-Date. Many Rolex watches are also considered to be valuable collectibles.

How Much Does a Rolex Cost?

The cost of a Rolex watch can vary widely depending on the specific model, materials used, and the current market conditions, from several thousand dollars to over $100,000. For example, the MSRP of a Rolex Datejust 36mm in stainless steel is around $7,400 (Source: Rolex.com), while the MSRP of a Rolex Datejust 31mm in 18k yellow gold is around $30,100 (Source: Rolex.com).

Why Are Rolex Watches So Expensive?

Rolex watches are some of the most expensive watches in the world for several reasons:

1.     Quality: Rolex watches are known for their exceptional quality and attention to detail. Every part of a Rolex watch is made to the highest standards and is rigorously tested to ensure that it meets the brand’s exacting standards.

2.     Materials: Rolex watches are made with the finest materials available, such as 18k gold, Oystersteel, and precious gems. These materials are not only durable and long-lasting but also add to the overall value of the watch.

3.     Craftsmanship: Rolex watches are handmade by skilled craftsmen and women who’ve been trained to the highest standards. Each watch is carefully assembled and inspected to ensure it meets the brand’s exacting standards.

4.     Brand reputation: Rolex has a long history of creating luxury watches synonymous with quality, durability, and precision. Their reputation for excellence and prestige has made them one of the most sought-after brands in the world.

5.     Limited production: Rolex watches are produced in limited quantities, making them exclusive and hard to find, which in turn drives up the price.
6.     Resale value: Rolex watches retain their value well over time and can even appreciate in value. This is especially true of stainless steel sports models.

Are Rolex Timepieces a Worthy Investment?

Many consider Rolex watches a good investment due to their reputation for quality and durability, as well as their ability to hold their value over time. Many people buy Rolex watches as an investment, with the expectation that they will appreciate over time. 

The value of a Rolex watch can fluctuate depending on various factors, such as the state of the market, supply and demand, and the condition of the timepiece. In recent years, long waiting lists for new Rolex models have driven up the cost of the pre-owned market. 

The Best Rolex Watches Under $10000

1. ROLEX SUBMARINER 41MM (ref. 124060)

Perched atop our list is the Submariner. The latest iteration marks more than 70 years of evolution of this model. First distinguishing itself with the military and among professional divers and later adorning the wrists of some of the biggest stars in Hollywood. Nothing exudes cool like the Submariner. 

Despite the increase in case size of the current model, it offers a return to a more streamlined case profile and less chunky appearance, in contrast to the outgoing model. The case and bracelet are made of 904L steel, which is highly resistant to corrosion and doesn’t require the watch to be rinsed after exposure to saltwater. 

“Under the hood” is the highly celebrated new in-house 3230 movement, boasting a rated accuracy within -2/+2 seconds per day after casing. Further, the timepiece offers improved protection against shock and magnetism. The hands and hour markers are 18c white gold to protect against corrosion. 

This model doesn’t include a date feature, and many purists prefer the simplicity and legibility of this dial as a true dive watch. Those seeking the date feature might consider the 126610LN model, although it might be more difficult to find under $10000. 

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 40mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial color: Black
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 300 meters/ 1000 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet with Glidelock extension system
• Features: Date display, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price $9,100 (Source: Rolex.com)

2. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 41MM (ref. 124300)

This collection represents Rolex’s first-ever sports model from 1933. The new model is slightly larger to accommodate modern design expectations while still being slim enough to easily slide under a dress shirt. 

This allows the timepiece to function as a sport and dress watch. The silver sunburst dial version, with its yellow gold indicators and hands, luster, and shimmer, changes the look of the face in different lights. The black dial, with silver hour markers and hands, gives it a clean look, with the iconic Rolex crown logo at 12 o’clock. These are just two of the various dial options for this watch. 

The watch is also built to last, with a construction that is both durable and precise. The case is made of 904L steel, which is known for its resistance to corrosion and scratches. The bracelet is also made of the same steel and features a folding Oysterlock safety clasp that provides added security.

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 41mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Silver, bright black, bright blue & green 
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet
• Features: Date display, central seconds hand, stop-seconds for precise time setting

Price: $6,400 (Source: Rolex.com)

3. ROLEX DATEJUST 41MM (ref. 126300)

The Datejust 41mm is a modern update to the classic Datejust line of watches. This is a broad, flat watch made for medium to larger wrists. It features a 41mm stainless steel case and is powered by the Rolex Caliber 3235 self-winding mechanical movement. 

The watch features a date display at the 3 o’clock position with a Cyclops lens for easy reading, and the dial is protected by a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

It comes with an Oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link that allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet length by up to 5mm without using any tools. The 126300 is a versatile and elegant watch, perfect for formal and casual occasions. It is a timeless watch that embodies the essence of Rolex.

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 41mm
• Case Material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Bright black, slate, slate with green roman numerals, bright blue,   bright blue/fluted motif, Azzurro blue, mint green, mint green fluted motif, silver &  white with roman numerals.  
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3235)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet with folding Oysterclasp and Easylink comfort extension link
• Features: Date display at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price: $8,050

4. ROLEX EXPLORER 36MM (ref. 124270)

“Bond, James Bond”. In the books and many of the movies, the James Bond character wears a Rolex, typically a Submariner. However, the writer behind the Bond books, Ian Fleming, who was a real-life spy for the British during WWII, was known to wear the Rolex Explorer 36mm. 

The Explorer is a no-nonsense sports watch. The dial is uncomplicated, and that’s just the way I like it. If you set this version next to older Explorers, it might be difficult to spot the differences. Rolex hit the sweet spot with this watch long ago, and they’ve been refining perfection ever since. 

This version does have larger hour markers that jump off the dial more than previous versions. The bracelet is new and far more substantial. The buckle also gets the full Rolex treatment with the EasyLink adjustment system, which is a welcome upgrade. The most significant upgrade to this model is the new 3230 in-house movement, which we’ve already discussed above.  

Specs & features:

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Black
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3132)
• Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date

Price: $7,250

5. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 36MM (ref. 12600)

For those that want a watch for the office and outdoor activities, comes the Oyster Perpetual 36mm. The specs and features of this watch are, of course, mostly identical to the 41mm model detailed above. What stands out for the 36mm model are its colorful, stylish dial options.

These include bright black, candy pink, bright blue, turquoise blue, green, and silver. I’ll discuss a couple that stand out. 

The candy pink dial is bright and vibrant on the wrist, making it an excellent option for the “legally blonde” lady lawyers out there, as well as the stylish men of LA, New York, and D.C. that aren’t afraid to don a soft pink dress shirt in the spring. 

The turquoise blue offers a “Tiffany-style” note and is another great unisex option. 

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: bright black, candy pink, bright blue, turquoise blue, green, silver.
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3230)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Oyster steel bracelet
• Features: Date display, central seconds hand, stop-seconds for precise time setting

Price: $6,100

6. ROLEX EXPLORER II 42MM (ref. 226570)

The Explorer II was first introduced in 1971 as a watch designed for cave and polar explorers. The watch features a fixed bezel with a 24-hour graduated scale. Its orange 24-hour hand makes it easy to distinguish day from night.

It also has a very legible dial that is protected by the sapphire crystal and features a date function and the ability to stop the seconds hand for precise time setting. The watch sits broadly on the wrist, and I would therefore recommend it for medium to larger wrists.

However, it does sit low enough to slide under a dress shirt, giving it sport/dress versatility. Some have complained that Rolex didn’t “upgrade” the steel bezel to a ceramic. However, the steel gives a nod to the timepieces’ 70s roots, and I think it distinguishes it nicely from other luxury watches in this space.  

Specs & Features:

• Case size: 42mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: White & black 
• Movement: Automatic (Caliber 3285)
• Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters / 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Oyster bracelet with folding clasp
• Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour display

Price: $9,650

7. ROLEX DATEJUST 36MM (ref. 126200)

The Rolex Datejust is a line of luxury wristwatches that was first introduced by Rolex in 1945 to celebrate the brand’s 40th anniversary. It was the first wristwatch to feature an automatically changing date display, which was displayed in a window at the 3 o’clock position on the dial.

This feature was made possible by developing a new movement, the Caliber 450, which was also the first to be produced entirely in-house by Rolex. There are obviously many similarities between Datejust 36mm and the 41mm previously covered in this article.

Besides the difference in case size, the 36mm model has a more classic and timeless look, while the 41mm model has a modern and bolder appearance. Staying in the sub $10000 category for the 36mm, you can get either the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet (as with the 41mm). Still, should you fancy it, you can also afford the white gold and steel materials with the fluted bezel. 

Specs & features:

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel, white gold & steel
• Dial colors: Bright black, slate, slate with green roman numerals, bright blue,  bright blue/fluted motif, Azzurro blue, mint green, mint green fluted motif, silver & white with roman numerals.  
• Movement: Automatic (caliber 3235)
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Jubilee with folding clasp
• Features: Date display at 3 o’clock with Cyclops lens, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, unidirectional rotatable bezel, luminescent hour markers, COSC-certified chronometer.

Price: $7,450-$8,950

8. ROLEX AIR-KING 40MM (ref. 126900)

The Air-King collection has a rich history in aviation. The original Air-King model was first introduced in the 1940s, specifically designed to pay tribute to the British Royal Air Force (RAF) pilots, who played a crucial role during World War II. The Air-King models are known for their durability, reliability, and legibility, which were essential for pilots who needed to keep track of time while flying.

The 26900 case sits lower but broader than previous models. This watch fits a medium to large wrist. This timepiece features a pinned Rolex crown with a clamshell and spring-loaded Lift-Lock system and hook. 

The previous model only featured a stamped Rolex crown and Lift-Lock, so this is a big upgrade. The dial has also changed. It features loomed 3, 6, and 9 numerals. This offers a much better sense of time in the dark. The Mercedes-style hour hand is more pointed and longer. 

Specs & features: 

• Case size: 40mm diameter
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial colors: Black with white gold numerals and indicators 
• Movement: Automatic caliber 3230, self-winding mechanism
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters (330 feet)
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel, folding clasp with safety release
• Features: Centre hour, minute, and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time setting 

Price: $7,450

9. ROLEX MILGAUSS 40MM (ref. 116400GV)

The Rolex Milgauss is known for its ability to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 Gauss, hence the name “Milgauss” (a combination of “mille”, the French word for “thousand”, and the measuring unit for magnetic flux density “Gauss”). 

It’s a modern version of the classic Milgauss model that was first launched in 1956 and made for engineers and technicians. The Milgauss hasn’t been made by Rolex since the 1980s and only came back into production in 2007.

This timepiece is a good fit for a smaller wrist. It’s thin and low profile and slides easily under a dress shirt. It’s a graceful-looking watch with a handsome green-tinted crystal, paired with a matt black dial (in contrast to the typical glossy black Rolex is known for), or you can select the Z-green dial. The black dial sports two-tone luminous indicators. This model includes the Easy-Link system and raised Rolex crown. 

Specs & features: 

• Case size: 36mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial Colors: White with Roman numeral hour markers
• Movement: Automatic caliber 3131, self-winding
• Power reserve: Approximately 48 hours 
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel Jubilee with folding clasp
• Features: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Price: $9,300

10.  ROLEX GMT MASTER II 40MM (ref. 126710BLRO)

The Rolex GMT Master II is a watch developed specifically for pilots and frequent travelers. It features a bi-directional rotating bezel with a 24-hour hand that can be set to a second time zone, allowing the wearer to easily keep track of time in two different time zones. 

The black dial with luminescent hour markers and hands makes it easy to read in any lighting conditions. The 40mm case size is perfect for people with average wrists and will fit comfortably. The stainless-steel oyster bracelet with a folding Oysterclasp and an Easylink 5mm comfort extension link allows the wearer to adjust the bracelet for a perfect fit.

This model pushes our budget cap just slightly above $10000. It’s also a watch in high demand and difficult to find, so one may have to spend beyond the MSRP to acquire it. Many consider it a solid investment and worth the effort and cost. 

Specs & features: 

• Case size: 40mm
• Case material: Stainless steel
• Dial color: Black
• Movement: Rolex Caliber 3285, self-winding mechanical
• Power reserve: 70 hours
• Water resistance: 100 meters/ 330 feet
• Bracelet/strap: Stainless steel, Jubilee 
• Features: Hour, minute, and seconds hands, dual time function with independent 24-hour hand, adjustable through the crown

Price: $10,700 – $10,900

CLOSING THOUGHTS

Rolex is arguably the most recognizable luxury watch brand in the world. Many collectors also regard them as a solid investment. Their collections have been known to hold their value, and some have even appreciated selling for more than their retail price in the pre-owned market. 

The list we’ve assembled offers a guide to what we regard as the finest Rolex timepieces, sub $10000. For expert guidance in purchasing your next Rolex, contact our friends at Exquisite Timepieces. 

When I think of the classic Rolex, many come to mind, like the Submariner, the GMT-Master, or the Explorer, but these are more tool watches. The one watch that fits any style is the Datejust. It is a simple watch with a date function and a timeless design that works in every facet of modern life.

Anywhere from the office to the beach to a formal event, the Datejust can do it all. I’ll be focusing on the 31mm and 36mm variations of the model because I believe 36mm is the do it all size, with 31mm being there for the more feminine design.

And yes, wrist size is a factor for both versions, but there are numerous factors when deciding between the two. Many might say what about the Day-Date? Yes, it’s a great watch, but it suits itself best at the 41mm size, in my opinion, because of its proportions on the dial.

The Day-Date is also more of a blingy watch, no matter the version. The Datejust is a more understated watch overall, in my opinion. For this article, I will focus on the current catalog and not vintage or discontinued models of the 31mm and 36mm variations of the Datejust.

History of the Datejust

In 1945, Rolex was celebrating its 40th anniversary as a watchmaking company, and with that, a new watch was designed and produced to celebrate the occasion. The result of this anniversary was the Rolex Datejust. 

It wasn’t just the timepiece that made a significant splash, but the bracelet it came on, the now famous jubilee, that many companies have copied or tried to emulate over the years. The Datejust, in its current catalog, offers the watch in both the jubilee and Oyster bracelets.

Many people who buy watches today are aware that a date complication is very common, but what they don’t know is that this function was first introduced with the Datejust. An automatic watch that instantly changes over the date at midnight.

The first reference of the Datejust was the 4467, and it came in 18k gold. There have been many versions since in precious metals, stainless steel, and of course, the famous two-tone or Rolesor (gold and stainless steel). 

The purpose of the Datejust is simple. It’s a versatile watch at 31mm and 36mm sizes for men and women for anything from a walk in the park, to a board meeting, to a night out with friends, dressed up or dressed down.

31mm Versus 36mm

For all intents and purposes, the similarities between the 31mm and 36mm versions of the Rolex Datejust are very apparent. They have similar case shapes, dial layouts, and bracelets and have the signature date function with the cyclops magnifier.

The differences are subtle in that the 31mm is obviously smaller and looks the part. It’s of a more feminine design and plays that part as it is usually the choice for women. 

That being said, many women look great in the 36mm version of the watch, and I also think there are some men that the 31mm Datejust would look right at home. Yes, of course, wrist size plays a determining role in the correct fit and look of one’s watch.

Another difference of the 31mm is that many of its designs are geared toward the more feminine. Many of the watches are gem set on the bezel and the indices. Not that the 36 mm doesn’t have these things, but the 31mm version does it with more of a jewelry design in mind. Just look at the flower, diamond design of one of the new 2022 31mm Datejust models.

The 36mm sticks to a more classic design, with things like honeycomb dials, solid color design, the classic Wimbledon dial, roman numerals, etc. Yes, both the 31mm and 36mm versions have many of the same dial designs, but the 31mm leans more towards the feminine side of design, whereas the 36mm leans more towards the traditional, as shown in this black dialed, two-tone Everose gold 36mm Datejust.

Other common traits between the Datejust 31mm and 36mm include the smooth and fluted bezel options, baton hands, roman numerals, and gem-set design. Regardless of the size, any Datejust model on the wrist is instantly recognizable as a Rolex.

What’s the Best Rolex Datejust Size for a Man?

This next part might be obvious. What is the correct size of watch for a man when comparing the 31mm and 36mm Datejust? Most people would say that it’s obviously the 36mm version. The 36mm version may be the right choice for many male wrists, but not everyone has the same wrist size. 

I also say whatever feels most comfortable on your wrist and what you think looks and feels best should be the watch that you choose. For example, the Cartier Tank is a much smaller watch and adorns the wrist of many men and women, no matter their wrist size. Sometimes it just comes down to being able to wear timeless designs no matter the size of one’s wrist. Just as an example, Muhammad Ali famously wore a Cartier Tank.

I also think smaller watches are on the comeback. The celebrities back in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s all wore for the most part sub 39mm watches. That’s both men and women. I myself own both large and smaller watches. I have an average-sized male wrist and I find myself going with my 36mm Explorer most of the time.

What’s the Best Rolex Datejust Size for a Woman?

What is the right size of Datejust for a woman, 31mm or 36mm? This comes down to preference and opinion. Yes, wrist size is a factor, but to me, it’s not the main factor when it comes down to it. 

Some women may be attracted to the more feminine design of the 31mm, but I think just as many women would be attracted to the more traditional designs of the 36mm. Choosing a watch always comes down to personal preference. Whether you are a man or a woman, you want what you want.

Some women may want something small on their wrist that is more in line with a piece of jewelry, like a bracelet, but some women may prefer more of a wrist presence, showing they have a timepiece on their wrist.

Another important factor for a woman to consider when choosing a Datejust size is the dial variations. While a dial with diamonds on it might seem out of place on a man’s wrist, a woman can easily wear this type of fancy watch as well as a more traditional monochromatic dial.

Choosing the Right Datejust for You

Throughout the article, I have mentioned many reasons why someone, man or woman, would choose the 31mm or the 36mm version of the Datejust. It just comes down to personal preference and what you want on your wrist. Something small with a feminine design or slightly larger with a more traditional watch design.

For myself, I would choose the 36mm option as I feel it fits my wrist the best, and I like the proportions of the dial layout. That’s my personal preference. I would go for the classic fluted bezel with a solid color on the dial, jubilee bracelet, and in stainless steel. I’m a sucker for simple, classic designs as I own a Rolex Explorer 1 (36mm) in stainless steel. 

Final Thoughts

The right Rolex Datejust is out there for you, and as I didn’t mention vintage, that’s an option as well. Modern and vintage, Rolex makes an excellent watch in 31mm and 36mm Datejust models.

Happy Rolex hunting to all the men and women out there looking for the “Classic Watch of Reference”, the Rolex Datejust. 

Nothing will shake up the watch industry like a new release from Rolex! Every Facebook Group, watch blog site, and YouTube personality erupts with positive and negative opinions immediately following any release, regardless of how subtle the changes are.

The release of the new Rolex Deepsea Challenge was different. Sure, everyone was quick to react with an opinion, but the changes they discussed were far from minute; some may even say they were huge! To better understand this new release from Rolex, let’s explore the path Rolex has taken to lead to their latest bragging right.

Rolex has always had an affinity for pushing the limits of what is possible with a mechanical wristwatch. From accompanying Sir Edmund Hilary on his Everest expedition to the deep explorations of the Undersea World of Jacques Cousteau. It is the later explorations that helped cement Rolex as the premier tool watch of choice for any type of modern explorer.

Through the expertise and technology derived from the commercially available Submariner line, Rolex pushed the limits once again while accompanying the Trieste on a record-breaking dive to nearly 11,000 meters in Mariana’s Trench back in 1960 with a specifically designed watch.

Fast forward to 2008, and Rolex was at it again. After nearly perfecting their Submariner and Sea Dweller lines, Rolex was after something that could once again push the limits. This resulted in the Rolex Deepsea, a commercially available dive watch capable of withstanding pressure at 3900 meters.

Four years later, in 2012, Rolex developed a special Rolex Deepsea Challenge to accompany James Cameron to another exploration of Mariana’s Trench. Although never commercially available, this watch is the inspiration for what was released in 2022.

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge, reference 126067, is the culmination of the last 70 years of Rolex innovation and their pursuit of dive watch perfection. Let’s look at 10 facts about this new watch and what its release means for Rolex and the rest of the watch industry as a whole.

1. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is Large and in Charge!

Before diving into this new release, we need to address the elephant in the room. The 50mm elephant! The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is a very large watch. Coming in at 50mm wide and 23mm thick, this watch would have difficulty sliding under even the loosest cuffs.

The Deepsea Challenge dwarfs the standard Deepsea model at 44mm, a timepiece openly criticized for its large dimensions. Despite this large size, the watch remains “relatively” wearable considering what it is capable of. Afterall, the Deepsea challenge is not meant to melt away on your wrist when paired with a suit; it’s a tool engineered for a purpose.

2. New Materials! At Least New to Rolex

Rolex is not a brand known for pushing the boundaries of exotic materials. Sure, they like to experiment with little brother Tudor, but Rolex doesn’t usually get in on the fun. The Deepsea Challenge utilizes Rolex’s new RLX titanium. This metal is grade 5 titanium, a material known for its corrosion resistance and lightweight properties compared to stainless steel. Why is this a big deal? This is the first time Rolex has constructed a watch entirely out of titanium.

It has been used for the case back on previous models but never for an entire piece. With a watch sized at 50mm, titanium allows this piece to be somewhat wearable at “just” 251 grams, as opposed to the 350+ that it would be had it been fashioned out of stainless steel. The rest of the industry has been much quicker to adopt titanium. But, by Rolex acknowledging its functionality, there is no doubt that many other brands will be lining up to do the same.

3. This Watch Can Go Deep!

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge has a water resistance of 11,000 meters. If you find yourself casually strolling the deepest depths of the ocean, you will be as dead as a person can be, but at least your watch will still be ticking away. There have been a few watches accompanying dives to this depth, so what makes this watch special?

If you wanted one of those other watches, you needed to be a museum curator, an eccentric billionaire collector, or James Cameron (who honestly might be all 3). The Rolex Deepsea Challenge, however, is a commercially available watch, meaning that this technology is finally available for the everyday consumer.

Will we ever need a watch rated to go down to this depth? Absolutely not! Is it fun to know that your wristwatch could reach the deepest depths of our planet? Hell yeah!

4. Bells and Whistles!

How does Rolex manage to achieve these great depths? There are a few very clever enhancements from the standard Submariner line that help differentiate this model. The first is the helium escape valve. This technology is fairly common today, but when first introduced in the 1960s was instrumental in allowing watches to reach great depths.

The condensed version is that, at great depths, compressed helium particles, which are smaller than water, can enter the watch and create a pressure difference during the decompression process. This would cause the crystal of a timepiece to pop off, effectively ruining your watch and your day. The Helium Escape Valve allows these helium particles to freely enter and escape your piece without the possibility of water ingress.

The other enhancement to the Deepsea Challenge comes in the form of the Ring Lock System. This system is a nitrogen-alloyed stainless steel compression ring that helps to absorb the pressure experienced through the caseback and crystal of the watch. With this compression ring, the water-tight seals maintain their shape and ensure a proper fit.

These innovations may not seem as groundbreaking as they did in 1967 and 2008 upon their introduction. But, combined with other refinements, they allow this watch to go deeper than any commercially available watch.

5. It’s Not a Cheap Watch! But Would It Be a Rolex if It Was?

Rolex sports models are not necessarily known for their bargain prices. This Deepsea Challenge is certainly no different, coming in at about $26,000. That’s a lot of money for a tool watch, but to Rolex’s credit, this watch is doing something that no other commercially available watch can do.

Considering that a standard Rolex Submariner can set you back more than $15000 on the preowned market, if you can acquire this watch at retail, you would be getting an absolute bargain. The most surprising part of this equation is that, in a world of complete scarcity regarding new Rolex models’ availability at retail, people are having some success with this model.

Although anecdotal, my timeline has been full of people trying this watch on for fun but ultimately turning it down due to its size or higher retail price. Given the history of Rolex sports models, could we be sleeping on the next auction house sweetheart?

6. Consistency in Design

If there is one thing that differentiates Rolex from its competitors, it is its ability to stay consistent. This glacial pace of refinement leads to some people getting bored with the design of many Rolex models. This iconic look has allowed a Rolex watch to create a distinct identity. This new Deepsea Challenge model is very distinctly a Rolex dive watch.

There are changes to the size and the rehaut, but the timepiece is still a refinement of the original design. If you compare this watch to a vintage Rolex Submariner, although the Submariner will look downright diminutive, you will be able to see the design characteristics that have carried through several new iterations and models. Consistency has always been one of the keys to Rolex’s success.

7. Rolex vs. Omega

Rolex and Omega are no strangers to doling out right hooks to each other. As soon as one company reaches a milestone, the other is there to one-up them. There is no greater example of this back and forth than when it comes to deep sea exploration. With the release of the Rolex Deepsea in 2008, Rolex set the standard for a commercially available dive watch by achieving a water resistance of 4000 meters.

In early 2022, Omega put the watch industry on notice by releasing the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep. This large titanium watch’s capability of reaching depths of 6000 meters not only gave them the title of deepest depth rating for a commercially available dive watch, but it did so in a convincing fashion, surpassing the Rolex by 150%.

Rolex was officially in second place, a position they did not take too fond of occupying. The “pressure” was on, and less than a year later, we received this new Deepsea Challenge. A watch that doubled the depth rating of the Ultra Deep and delivered what could only be described as the gut punch of a lifetime to Omega.

8. How Does This Watch Impact Tudor?

When it comes to the relationship between Rolex and Tudor, the lines have become very blurred over the last few years. Every time we think we have this relationship figured out, Tudor decides to introduce a solid gold watch, or Rolex refocuses on the tool watch market, completely confusing every watch enthusiast. The release of the Deepsea Challenge further complicates how we view these two intertwined brands.

For the last couple of years, the trajectory was heading toward a path of Rolex making high-end luxury watches, while Tudor filled in the hole in the market Rolex left behind for premium tool watches. Rolex focusing on new materials like titanium and creating a timepiece aiming to push the limits of a tool watch feels very “old Rolex” and something we thought Tudor would be concentrating on. Perhaps the relationship between these two brands isn’t as clear-cut as we all assumed.

9. What This Means for the Future of Rolex

The new Deepsea Challenge says more for the future of Rolex than almost any other modern release over the last few years. Rolex can now manufacture watches out of titanium. The possibilities there are endless. Can you imagine an RLX titanium Submariner? I am sure that would be an easy watch to get at retail!

Looking beyond just the possibilities with materials, Rolex can now do something they have rarely been able to do over the last several years. They’ve proven that they still have the ability to surprise us. Maybe their next release will push the limits again in terms of specification, or we may see another unique material, like a ceramic case. The only thing that’s certain is that we might have something a little more interesting than 1mm in case size to debate about next year.

10. A Call Back to the Past

The Deepsea Challenge represents a return to form for Rolex. Not just in their ability to surprise us or make a tool watch but their ability to push the limits of what is possible. For a company that earned its reputation through accompanying real-life explorers as they discovered the previously undiscovered, the modern luxury status of Rolex just never seemed to fit.

These watches have been on people’s wrists, pushing boundaries and setting records. They were meant to be a tool; and not just a tool to increase wealth by sitting in a bank safe and appreciating in value. I am sure this watch will one day be an investment, but it certainly wasn’t designed to be.

Let the call back of the beautifully chamfered lugs of the Deepsea Challenge transport you to a time when Rolex not only took the extra time for aesthetic detail but also prided themselves on creating watches that were meant to be used!

The Leviathan of the Past Rises Again

The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is, in many ways, a misunderstood release from Rolex. It has quite a few detractors who see this release as nothing more than an oversized Submariner. When you view this watch through a narrow lens of their luxury prestige, I can see how one could come to this opinion.

It’s important to remember that although Rolex has undoubtedly played into that luxury image with some of its pieces, they still produce fully capable tool watches. In many ways, the second-hand market has elevated these pieces to an ultra-luxury status. The Deepsea Challenge is an evolution of Rolex’s prestigious tool watch history, not their luxury one.

When you view this watch through that lens, although still being very large, the Deepsea Challenge is the modern definition of a tool watch.