I’d be the first to tell you I’m a pretty verbose guy. But this time, I promise I’ll keep it short and sweet. I’m going to break down each of the two types of mechanical watches and how you should wind it, with both the essentials and a little bit more.
As a side note, if your watch is a quartz watch, you won’t need to wind it at all to keep it running: if it’s stopped and the crown is pushed in, you’ll just need a battery change. That’s all for the intro—let’s get right into it!
Automatic Watches
Most watches sold today are automatics. They use a winding rotor on the back to stay wound and keep running, so this makes your job here winding your watch a heck of a lot easier. If you’re not sure if your watch is an automatic, look for a winding rotor through the caseback (if it’s clear) or look for any sort of text on the dial or on the caseback that would indicate that it’s an automatic.
When an automatic watch stops running, you have two options to get it going again. First, you can just give it a few gentle shakes or spins to get the rotor whirling and get just enough charge back into the mainspring (the power supply for the watch) for it to get ticking again. If you’re a little too impatient for that, or just prefer manual winding, you can use the crown. Here’s how that should work.
First, take the watch off your wrist if you’re wearing it and hold it in your hand. If you wind the watch while it’s on your wrist, you can put too much tension on the winding mechanism because of the angle you hold the crown at and risk damaging something.
Now that it’s in your hand, take hold of the crown—that’s the little knob sticking out of the side, usually at 3:00—between two fingers. Make sure it’s pushed all the way in, and then slowly rotate it clockwise. You should feel and hear a light grinding.
It won’t be very tactile, sort of a light resistance and a faint whirring sound as you turn it. If you feel nothing and hear nothing, you’re probably turning it the wrong way and the winding has disengaged. Just switch the way you’re turning it.
Once the watch starts ticking again, you’re good to go! Give it another turn or two for good measure and slip the watch on your wrist after you set the time. The automatic winding rotor will make sure the watch gets wound the rest of the way to its max as you wear it throughout the day and will keep it wound as you continue to wear it.
If you take your watch off for the night and go to pick it up the next day, you should be good to go! As long as the watch is ticking already, you won’t need to worry about winding it. Just slip it on and let the automatic winding do its job.
Manual-Wind Watches
Manual-wind watches are a little trickier than automatic, but still quite easy to get the hang of. Many watch collectors find winding their manual watch to be an important daily ritual, of interacting with their watch and enjoying it before they slip it on for the day. Here’s how you’ll want to go about it.
As with the automatic winding, make sure you’re not wearing your watch before you go to wind it. Take it in one hand and be sure that the crown (again, the little knob sticking out, usually at 3:00) is pushed in all the way. Take the crown between two fingers of the other hand and gently rotate it clockwise.
Unlike the automatic watches, you should hear and feel a clear tactile tick with every slight degree of rotation. It’s a sound that, after a while, you’ll come to love. If you don’t hear that, you’re probably winding it the wrong way and should switch directions.
Continue to gently turn the crown clockwise. It’ll take quite a few full rotations before the watch gets to full wind. The crown should turn easily, without much resistance. Eventually, you’ll feel it stop. Do not turn the crown any further when you feel this resistance.
At this point, the watch is fully wound and is unable to accept any more wind. Forcibly turning the crown further could seriously damage the mainspring! But if you’re being relatively attentive and turning gently, you won’t have to worry about accidentally damaging something. You’ll feel your watch push back when you’re done winding.
Like I touched on a little earlier, manual winding is an opportunity to take a moment at the start of each day to interact with your watch and to, quite literally, give yourself the time. Enjoy it, and enjoy watching the face of your watch as you wind it.
If your watch has a clear caseback, you can also flip it over and watch the winding gears turn and watch the balance wheel sputter into life as you gently wind. It’s a moment to cherish.
Conclusion
There, I kept it nice and short and sweet, with only a little bit of waxing philosophical about watch winding. But to be fair, a mechanical watch is a thing of artisanal beauty, and it deserves a moment of contemplation and enjoyment as you wind it each day.
It’s a simple task, but one that can’t be passed up and certainly should be appreciated. Make the most of it!
Like American politics, watchmaking runs on a two-party system. Mechanical and quartz. Those are the only two domains—if you ignore the little third parties like tuning fork watches. Unlike the two-party system, however, it’s easy to appreciate and admire both sides of this wide and wonderful world.
Here at Exquisite Timepieces, we love mechanical watches. They’re hard not to love, actually. Mechanical microengineering coupled with tradition makes for some seriously beautiful works of art.
But all too often, us watch nerds overlook the humbler side of things: quartz. Quartz is usually cheaper, and mass-produced. Yet it offers precision on a level that absolutely blows any mechanical watch out of the water, for a ridiculously cheap price. It’s hard to argue with that!
But where does this technology come from? How do quartz watches manage to be so cheap and yet so precise? How did they come to dominate almost all of the watch market globally—a whopping 96%? No matter whether you’re a seasoned watch collector or just taking your first steps into this deep world, read on for the answers to these questions and more!
History of Quartz Watches
If we want to understand what a quartz watch is today, it’s important to talk about where it has come from. Or at least, so my history teachers insisted all throughout my years in school. Regardless, their past is interesting (not just to history teachers, I promise!) and I think it’s well worth a good overview.
Quartz technology has been used in timekeeping for a long time—specifically, just under a century at the time of writing this! It was first used in clocks in 1927, thanks to the brilliant mind of Warren Marrison, who was working at the time at Bell Telephone Labs.
Now I want to save a real analysis of how it works for the next section, but, for now, it’ll suffice to say that the lab discovered that quartz has some very interesting properties related to electricity, which we’ll cover later. Consider that a little teaser for what’s to come.
At the time, the equipment for quartz timekeeping was large and bulky, but it totally shook things up in the world of horology. All of a sudden, you have something that’s not mechanical at all, which is how things had been made for centuries before, and is suddenly far more accurate than even the finest hand-made mechanical clock.
That’s pretty game-changing. Even the way people think about time itself is called into question. Suddenly, the way we measure time is so precise that the most accurate quartz clocks are able to tell us almost the exact time at any given moment. No more deviation of a few seconds per day—time is now something we have full control over.
Philosophical meanderings aside, it was the well-known Japanese brand Seiko that really pushed quartz technology further from where Bell Labs left off. The technology in these quartz clocks was large and unwieldy. Shrinking it down to wristwatch size was at the time completely out of the question.
And yet, around 30 years later, Seiko began working on a quartz movement powered by a smaller 1.5V battery. Previously, their research had already led them to produce their own quartz crystals using a special process with hydrofluoric acid and a photolithography technique.
Essentially, photolithography involves creating patterns on a surface by using light. A photosensitive material is applied to a certain area, and then, when it is exposed to light in a certain pattern, a chemical reaction takes place in those areas. Notably, it’s used in making integrated circuits and silicon chips in computing today.
This technology and innovation enabled Seiko to make great leaps and bounds forward in shrinking down quartz technology beyond what anyone would have thought possible when it was first introduced.
In 1963, they created the Crystal Chronometer, a table clock that ran on a quartz movement. No more need for a tall longcase clock for quartz accuracy—now it was available to anyone in a small space in your house or on your desk.
They didn’t stop there. Just three years later, in 1966 and 1967, Seiko brought the first quartz pocket watches onto the market. Now, precision was wearable in your pocket. But wristwatches were the prevailing fashion of the day, so Seiko’s work wasn’t complete.
Then, on Christmas Day, 1969, it happened. The first quartz wristwatch was put up for sale. Precision on your wrist, down to the last second. The Seiko Quartz Astron 35SQ came into the world, an elegant watch with a large cushion case, and, most importantly of all, a fully quartz movement. It would completely change the notion of what a wristwatch can be forever.
At this point, the Swiss industry was kinda freaking out. Switzerland was already associated with the finest mechanical watches, and precision was a pretty big deal for them. Many factories also mass-produced more affordable mechanical movements.
Quartz absolutely demolished the Swiss pursuit of mechanical precision and quickly outcompeted mass-produced mechanical movements, which were far more expensive to make than quartz and, of course, less accurate.
For a while now, the Swiss had been trying to get on board with quartz. In 1962, the Centre Électronique Horloger (or, roughly, “Electronic Watchmaking Center,” abbreviated CEH) was formed by 20 Swiss brands, including Omega and Patek Philippe.
If you don’t know those two names, the takeaway there is that they weren’t messing around. In 1966, they created their first prototype, the Beta-1, and the Beta-2 quickly followed in 1967.
Ultimately, the first Swiss mass-produced quartz movement would be the Beta-21, released April 10, 1970, by the CEH. 6,000 were initially made, and more followed. Member brands of the CEH put this movement to quick use, and Swiss watches by brands like the aforementioned Patek Philippe featuring a Beta-21 movement remain highly collectible today.
Despite the Swiss efforts, the introduction of quartz had a tremendously destabilizing effect on the industry. Many brands started to go under, unable to compete with the cheaper quartz markets flooding the industry.
The demand for fine watchmaking plummeted as people snapped up the latest technology, which was more affordable anyway. Because of this, the 1970s were what’s known as the “Quartz Crisis,” a time of tremendous upheaval for the industry that left Switzerland in particular much the worse for wear and companies like Seiko on top of the market.
Nowadays, if you look up the most well-known watch brands, you’ll find that they’re owned by the Swatch Group. (I promise, this is related—stick with me.) Omega, Breguet, Longines, Blancpain: these pillars of mechanical watchmaking are associated with a brand that made colorful quartz watches, Swatch.
At last, we begin to see the connection. In many ways, it was Swatch that saved the Swiss industry. In the face of Seiko’s dominance of the quartz market, they introduced their first wave of affordable quartz watches in 1983.
They were colorful, trendy, eye-catching, and reestablished Swiss watchmaking as a force to be reckoned with. Swatch was able to buy many of these other brands that were at risk of collapsing and kept them afloat.
Things stabilized. The crisis slowly faded. And with time, mechanical watchmaking took back an important place in the world of horology. Yet because of these changes, today’s watchmaking world certainly looks very different from what it did just 50 years ago.
How Does a Quartz Watch Work?
Still with me? Great! Here, we’re going to get into that long-awaited analysis of how quartz watches actually function. Remember how I mentioned the significance of quartz’s special electric properties?
As it turns out, if you squeeze a quartz crystal under a lot of pressure, it actually creates a small electrical current. That’s called piezoelectricity, in case you’re the type of person who collects big fancy words. By the same token, if you run an electrical current through a quartz crystal, something equally interesting happens: it vibrates.
If you know how a mechanical watch works, you probably know that it “beats” several times per second, usually four or five. This is due to the rotation of the balance wheel, which trips the escapement four to five times per second and thereby releases the gear train to advance.
Typically, the more times the balance wheel beats per second, the more accurate the watch is, as any errors in one beat are much more averaged out. Here’s the kicker. When you run current through a quartz oscillator, it vibrates at a stunning rate of 32,768 beats per second, or 215.
That’s the heart of any quartz watch, and it sure is an accurate one. With that many oscillations per second, it’s little wonder that quartz watches manage to be so accurate. The rest of the circuitry is designed to measure the oscillations and then trigger the movement of a small stepper motor once every 32,768 vibrations, or once a second.
Since the motor doesn’t provide as much torque as a mechanical movement does, most quartz watches feature thin, lightweight hands that won’t be a drain on the battery. The battery, of course, powers all the circuitry and the current that runs through the quartz crystal. Unlike mechanical watches, which need to be serviced every five years, a quartz movement will need a battery change every few years and, for the most part, requires no other external attention.
Eventually, it’ll break down and die, while a mechanical movement will last forever if it’s kept well-serviced. But then again, it’s a matter of a few moments and a few dollars to pop another entirely new quartz movement in the watch in the old one’s place.
Quartz Watches Today
Today, quartz watches are everywhere. Take a walk around any mall or major department store, and you’re sure to find a few for sale for less than your extra-special Starbucks order. But they’re not just limited to the lowest tiers of watchmaking. Some of the highest-end brands have made them a specialty, most notably, Grand Seiko and their 9F quartz movement.
Leave it to Seiko, of course, to continue pioneering in the field of quartz: their 9F features specially grown quartz crystals and even a regulation process and extra torque so you can use large mechanical-style hands. F.P. Journe, one of the most famous independent brands, has made its quartz Élégante a staple of its collections, and it remains one of the most sought-after watches on the market to this day.
Lastly, Seiko’s Astron collection, which started it all, is continuing to pioneer quartz in different ways. Modern Astrons automatically connect to GPS satellites to get the time with extreme precision, no matter where you are in the world, and will automatically correct themselves if you cross timezones.
Conclusion
Like it or not, quartz technology is here to stay, and it’s just going to keep getting better. As such, I humbly suggest that you embrace it wholeheartedly. Yes, even you, the seasoned mechanical watch collector in the back.
With such staggering precision and affordability, it’s little wonder that quartz watches can be found everywhere you look, from Walmart to claw machines, adorned with every imaginable case and dial from a sturdy G-Shock to your favorite lovable cartoon character.
But quartz is about more than just being cheap and making for some great character watches. It’s the future of watchmaking, and it’s already here now. It’s not for nothing that the modern Seiko Astron was one of the first watches I fell in love with, even after I discovered mechanical watchmaking.
Quartz and mechanics are yin and yang, perfect complements that make the world of watchmaking all the more wide and wonderful. What’s not to love about that?
There are many watches out there that cover all kinds of crazy functions, designs, heritage, and, most certainly, price. Not everyone can afford luxury brands such as Rolex, Omega, and so on and not everyone wants to spend that kind of money on a watch.
There are no objectively right answers to this and that is why watches are such a fun hobby, or rabbit hole, to go deep into because there is always a right watch at the right price for anyone out there.
Some people might be confused with quality and price, and think that you would have to spend a huge chunk of cash to only be able to obtain a quality watch. That is far from the truth.
Whether you are just a student getting ready to venture out into the scary and intimidating adult world or you’re just someone who just wants a nice watch to impress your first date, we’ve got you covered.
In this article, we are going to cover the 17 best watches for around $1,500 (prices might not be exactly $1,500, but we will do our best to include watches close to that price point) and will cover several different brands and also different styles.
Things to know before you buy
There are several brands from several countries, such as Switzerland, Germany, and Japan. There are no objectively “better” quality watches from where the watch is made, it is purely up to the buyer’s preference of whether they prefer a Swiss or a Japanese watch by the design and movement.
There are also different types of movement in this article, predominantly quartz and automatic watches. The main difference between the two is that quartz uses a battery to power the watch and requires a change of battery every two years or so.
On the flip side, the watch will always run and will be much more accurate as compared to the automatic movement. However, for an automatic watch, everything is mechanical, and as long as you wear it on your wrist, the watch will run. There is a charm to that, especially for watch enthusiasts.
Thus, it depends on the occasion that you’re planning to wear it. If you are wearing it during special occasions, quartz movements are more preferred as it will always run, and you do not have to worry about adjusting the time when it stops. Also, usually quartz watches are thinner and hide under your sleek cuffs on your special night out.
If you want an everyday watch, automatic movements are preferred because as long as you wear it, the watch will always run, making it more reliable, and there is no headache of changing the battery every few years.
Obviously, this is just a guide and not something that you have to follow. Be your own and choose whatever you wish, and I am sure you will enjoy the watch regardless.
In this article, we will be separating into two sections: automatic watches and quartz watches.
Best Automatic Watches
In this section, Seiko arguably dominates this category because of its affordable price and in-house movements, made entirely in Japan since 1881.
They also have one of the best price points with an automatic movement, as most automatic watches are usually slightly more expensive because of their complex nature of movement. There are also different “tiers” for Seiko, such as Seiko 5, Seiko, and Grand Seiko (which we will not cover in this topic due to the lack of budget).
There are also other brands from Switzerland and Germany. They are also a great price for value as Swiss watches (especially) are always viewed as a more reputable and more expensive counterpart due to their long horology history and also strong heritage that Swiss watch brands have cemented.
Seiko Prospex SPB143
The SPB143 is well-known among the Seiko enthusiasts and is very well-loved around the world. It is reminiscent of the legendary 62MAS, the first dive watch ever released by Seiko, and it still maintains that similar look with stick markers and a flat cushion-styled stainless steel case.
Powering this watch is the reliable and in-house automatic 6R35 movement with a power reserve of 70 hours. It is part of the Seiko Prospex line, which is more professional and aimed at divers. It has a water resistance of 200m, which is perfect for everyday wear or swimming.
With a case size of 40.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 47.6mm made from entirely stainless steel, this watch would fit a medium to large sized wrist, suitable for most people out there. You can find the watch for $1,200 at authorized Seiko retailers such as Exquisite Timepieces.
Seiko Presage SPB495
The Presage collection from Seiko is part of their dressy line, which exudes class and elegance. The SPB495 pays homage to the first-ever pocket watch made by Seiko themselves back in 1895.
It has an extremely unique enamel dial which gives this porcelain-white look, giving it a high contrast with the deep blue hands and black Roman numerals. The entire dial is not only easy to read with the contrast but also very timeless looking.
The watch is powered by the Caliber 6R5H, an automatic movement with 3 days power reserve. It also features a classy black cowhide strap made from leather, adding more dressy points to the watch.
The SPB495 features a 40mm stainless steel case and also an open case back where the wearers can enjoy the movement of the watch.
Usually, watches with an enamel dial come at an exorbitant price due to the highly complex process of creating the dial. But the SPB495 only comes in at $1,400, making it one of the most affordable watches with an enamel dial.
Seiko Prospex SPB379
This is recently released by Seiko to introduce an extra GMT function to their very famous Alpinist line of watches. The original Alpinist was very popular among watch collectors as it features a quirky crown at 4 o’clock that is actually a crown that rotates the inner bezel, which is a compass.
The SPB379 has a matte black dial with a striking and contrasting red second hour hand to show the second time zone. This makes the watch incredibly legible and has that field watch look to it. Powering the watch is the Caliber 6R54, a mechanical automatic movement that has an approximate power reserve of 72 hours.
Sizing of the watch is not too huge either with a case diameter of 39.5mm and a thickness of 13.6mm, suitable for most wrists out there. The SPB379 also has a 200m water resistance, perfect for everyday wear.
As with most Seikos, it is very well priced at just $1,150.
King Seiko SPB283
The King Seiko was discontinued for a while but recently, Seiko has brought it back to life. The King Seiko fills the gap between Seiko and Grand Seiko, offering a good balance between luxury and relatively affordable prices. The SPB283 is no exception.
The SPB283 is one of the most versatile-looking watches that offer exceptional finishing on the sunburst black dial and a comfortable bracelet that is suitable for everyday wear and also dressier occasions.
It also features one of the smallest dials in this list with a 37mm stainless case and 12.1mm thick. What makes it more unique than the others is the box-shaped sapphire crystal, offering an extra vintage look to improve legibility under direct sunlight.
The movement of the watch is King Seiko’s mechanical automatic caliber 6R31 with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The retail price is slightly more than the price suggested in this list at $1,700.
Seiko Prospex SPB257 1970 Mechanical Diver’s Modern Re-interpretation
The list deserves something slightly more special and does not have that standard stainless steel-look case, and the SPB257 is perfect for that. The SPB257 uses an iconic cushion case shape that watch enthusiasts call this series of Seiko dive watches the Seiko Turtle.
What makes the SPB257 unique is the black hard coating on the 42.7mm stainless steel case, giving that extra cool factor. The case size might look big, but it wears smaller than that due to its extremely short lug-to-lug distance of just 41.6mm.
The orange accents on the bezel and the minute hand give it a fascinating contrast and improve legibility, especially at night or under the sea. Completing the watch is the fabric strap that is made in Japan which is extra resistant to sunlight and prevents degradation over time.
Powering the watch is the automatic Caliber 6R35 with a power reserve of 70 hours. The retail price for the SPB257 is $1,300.
Seiko Presage SPB219
So far, we have mostly black dials and white dials, and I think a bit of color would not do any harm. Green is the new hyped-up color recently and it seems like every brand out there is introducing their own versions of green dials.
Luckily, the SPB219 has one of the most striking and beautiful green dials on the market, especially at just $1,400. It has a striking deep emerald green along with sharp-edged patterns on the dial, also known as “Tokima” or evergreen trees.
As this is part of the Presage lineup, it looks slightly more to the dressy side but also has extra features such as a GMT function that has a 24-hour GMT painted in yellow, a power reserve indicator, and a date window. It also has an open case back where you can see the beautiful Caliber 6R64 29-jewel automatic movement and a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.
Longines Hydroconquest Black Dial Automatic
Our first Swiss watch entry is this list and it has to be a Longines. They offer amazing products at a very good price point, especially for Swiss-made watches.
This Hydroconquest on this list is the older version of the current Hydroconquest line, but it is still an amazing watch, especially at just $1,375 (the newer ones are about $700 more). The Hydroconquest is Longines’ take on modern-style dive watches that feature bold numerals and very legible indices.
It features a very distinctive black dial that improves legibility and also maintains its timeless looking design. It is powered by the Caliber L888, an automatic movement that has a power reserve of approximately 72 hours and a water resistance of up to 300m.
Longines Hydroconquest Black Dial Steel PVD Automatic
Although it’s 99% the same watch as the above, we thought it would be a great addition to the list as this features a yellow PVD coating on the stainless steel bracelet and also on the bezel, crown, indices, and hands.
This is a great addition for someone who wants more of that vintage look and looks a bit more expensive and luxurious, offering that two-tone look. This is essentially a two-tone watch at a bargain, as most watches would include gold plated/solid gold to give that look. And it only costs a bit more than the standard Hydroconquest at $1,550.
Ball NM9050C-S1-BE Roadmaster Perseverer 40mm Blue Dial
Ball watches are often under the radar and are one of the most underrated Swiss watches in the current market. The Roadmaster is one of their entry-level watches that is perfect for everyday wear, but the finishing on the bracelet and the 40mm case is seamless. What I really like is the deep dark blue dial with contrasting white indices and just a pop of red that writes “Automatic” and the seconds hand.
It has an integrated 904L stainless bracelet type of look that can easily be dressed up or down, offering lots of versatility for the wearer. Not only that, the 904L stainless steel is a unique alloy that offers exceptional corrosion resistance. Powering the watch is the automatic Caliber Ball RR1103, which features a date function. The watch comes in at a very respectable price of around $1,550.
Junghans Max Bill Automatic 027/3500.02
Our first German brand on this list and Junghans is the perfect brand at this price range. The Junghans Max Bill is one of the most minimalist looking watches but looks modern at the same time with its Arabic numerals. The Max Bill is mostly known for its Bauhaus design offering incredible legibility with an extremely clean white dial.
The Junghans Max Bill is also extremely wearable, with a 38mm stainless steel case and a thickness of just 38mm. The watch also comes in a black calfskin strap that offers better comfort and extra casual points.
Powering the Max Bill is the automatic Caliber J800.1 with a power reserve of 38 hours, and the price tag is $1,460.
Raymond Weil 2925-STC-80001 Millesime
Another new brand added to this list is the Swiss brand Raymond Weil. They have been manufacturing watches since the 70s and have always been making solid watches ever since. The Millesime collection offers a very simple design and has a sector dial look. It is made to pay homage to the heritage and the traditions of horology of this brand.
We particularly picked this configuration that features a salmon dial, as it really brightens up the watch and gives it much more character. It also has two types of finishes on the bezel and case, offering an extra level of finishing. The watch comes in a case diameter of 39.5mm and just 9.25mm with a glassbox-type sapphire crystal.
The watch has an open case back, and you can enjoy the RW4200 automatic movement from behind and you can see the unique and signature W-shaped oscillating weight. It is priced at $1,650.
Frederique Constant FC-303NB5B6 Index Automatic 40mm
Frederique Constant has slowly been on the rise for Swiss-made watches and is continuing to creep up the ranks. The classic index collection is Frederique Constant’s entry-level watches for men, featuring a simple black dial with contrasting black indices.
This watch has a matte finish and provides a timeless aesthetic, making it perfect for everyday wear. Giving an extra bit of character is the calf leather with nubuck finishing and crocodile pattern for the strap to ensure great comfort and classiness.
The watch has a 40mm case and is powered by the automatic FC-303 with a power reserve of 38 hours. The Classic Index is priced at $1,195.
Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Automatic Blue Rubber ZO9270
If you’re after a super fun watch with bright colors and fun contrasted dials, Zodiac is the brand for you. Zodiac goes a long way back in 1882 and is also Swiss made. The Super Sea Wolf is one of their most popular and iconic dive watch collections, as it really stands out from the crowd.
The current selection features a super bright white dial and bezel with contrasting orange minute hand and minute track. This watch is perfect for those summer times at the beach or just taking a stroll in the city. It also features a wearable 40mm stainless steel case paired with a high-quality rubber strap and with a 200m water resistance.
The Super Sea Wolf is powered by an automatic movement STP 1-11 and is priced at $1,295.
Squale 1521 Classic Blue Sand Blasted on Strap
Another bright and fun watch brand with a rich heritage and history that goes back to the 50s for making reliable dive watches is Squale. They have been creating and testing to manufacture the best of the best dive watch cases for a lot of big Swiss brands back in the day and now have created their own.
The 1521 features a bright blue dial and bezel with a contrasting orange minute hand to improve legibility, especially under water. It also has the best water resistance on this list, with 500m, and is perfect for hardcore divers out there.
The case diameter is 42mm, and uses the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with a power reserve of 38 hours. Price of this watch is $1,040.
DOXA SUB 200T 804.10.351.10 Professional Iconic Dial
Continuing the list of fun looking dive watches, the Doxa Sub 200T is no doubt one of the most iconic Swiss dive watches out there at this price range. The striking orange dial, the sophisticated beaded bracelet, the stainless steel cushion case are what makes the Sub 200T, the Sub 200T.
It is one of the most wearable dive watches on this list with a 39mm diameter and just at a thickness of 10.7mm. The unidirectional rotating bezel is also super unique with its integrated US Navy no-decompression limit table that describes the benchmark for a diver’s safety.
It is equipped with a Swiss automatic movement that is decorated exclusively by Doxa with a power reserve of around 38 hours. It is priced at $1,590.
Best Quartz Watches
Longines L4.330.4.11.0 Elegant Collection Moonphase White Dial on Strap
Ladies watches should deserve some love too, and for all the ladies reading this blog, we got you covered.
The Longines Elegant collection is, as the name suggests, a super elegant looking dress watch that has a simple white dial and a moonphase at the 6 o’clock. This offers a bit of character with Roman numerals with some extra functionality such as the date as well. The watch comes in different strap colors too but in this example, we went for the light green colored strap to make the watch slightly more unique.
The watch features a Quartz Caliber L296 in a 30mm case diameter and a thickness of just 8.5mm. And at its price point of $1,350, it’s the perfect date night watch!
Longines Dolcevita L5.255.4.71.6
Second entry to the ladies watches in this list is the ever-so classic Dolcevita. This watch is the first rectangular shaped stainless steel case, a case dimension of 20.8mm x 32mm, on this list as it was inspired by a model from the 1920s that offers better proportions and exudes class and elegance without losing its original identity.
This classy watch features a Quartz Caliber L178 with roman numerals and a small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. What makes this watch super classy is its blue hands and silver, textual dial color that really shows off the elegance of the watch. The Dolce Vita also features a 5 link style bracelet for maximum comfort and versatility.
As the name suggests Dolce Vita, also means “sweet life” in Italian, can be true for you at just $1,425.
Conclusion
As you can see on this list, you do not have to break the bank to buy a solid and reliable watch. Doesn’t matter if it’s Japanese or Swiss or German, every watch is different in their own way.
There is no perfect watch out there, only a watch that is perfect for you.
With an ever-expanding market, I’ll admit it’s becoming a little more challenging for pieces to ACTUALLY be worth their price.
Sure, there are plenty of cheap watches out there that you can order online right now, but without proper research and knowing where to look, you could wind up with something either disappointing or non-functional altogether.
Today, this is for all you diver fans who are tired of spending an arm and a leg on pieces you trust but leave your bank account rather dry. I know you’re tired of it.
If you love watches but hate spending excessive amounts, these pieces hang around the $500 mark, ensuring you are getting the most out of your dollar.
All of these pieces are from big-name brands that have a rich history of producing high-quality watches, so there’s no reason to leave any room for uncertainty. Let’s dive in.
History of Dive Watches
In 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster case, a massive leap forward in water resistance technology for timepieces. Now, Rolex didn’t necessarily have the intention of making an authentic dive watch (mostly because nobody really knew what that was yet) but the Cartier Tank Etanche took the formula for the Oyster case a step further, manufacturing the first-ever water-resistant watch in 1931.
Funny enough, it was Omega who was responsible for the leap of water-resistant watches into true dive watches with the Omega Marine. The Marine solved the water resistance issue in a way that no other watch had managed to do, being tested in depths that no other watch had dared venture.
It also accompanied many divers on their expeditions, exploring the vast depths of the sea while staying perfectly intact. Now, diver fans can look back at the ancestral history of these pieces and smile because technology has only improved, and dive watches have only grown strong, being able to handle deeper pressures than ever before.
Seiko Prospex SRPE03 King Turtle
$625
The SRPE03 oozes with functionality. Of course, it’s a Seiko watch, so we have all come to expect only the best, and they have delivered once again. With a 45mm stainless steel case and a ceramic display on the bezel, this is a very tight piece that embodies the diver persona perfectly.
Weighing in at 198g and with a water resistance of 200m, diver fans will certainly be pleased. The thick hands of the dial and bright indices ensure perfect legibility, and the Lumi Brite feature makes it certain you will not be squinting to read the time at night.
The 4R36 Caliber gives this piece 41 hours of battery life with a stop-hand function and a day/date display. A perfect utilitarian piece that looks sturdy and smooth. It’s a classic Seiko.
Orient Kamasu (ref. RA-AA0001B39B)
$335
This business-style dive watch is suitable for both business environments and outdoor explorations. It measures 41.8mm in diameter and features a stainless steel case with a water resistance of 200m. Keeping the same feel of a familiar dive-watch, everything—once again—feels very tight.
The black dial doesn’t stand out, and the hands are fairly subtle, but the aesthetic isn’t attempting to embody anything it’s not, which in and of itself is admirable.
A very classy feel for certain, and the metal is very smooth and bright. A caliber F6922 Automatic movement powers the piece, delivering a 40-hour power reserve, and the unidirectional bezel further implements that utilitarian strength that diver fans crave.
Citizen Promaster Diver (ref. BN0168-06L)
$300
Switching up the aesthetic, the Citizen Promaster Dive is a bold blue with many sharp features that make the piece stand out. The stainless steel case is 44mm wide with a blue dial that delivers a nautical vibe that can be felt throughout the piece.
Along the bezel, a sharp red contrasts the silver and blue while also complementing the red outline of the hour hand. I can just imagine a warm afternoon on a boat, commandeering the ship while proudly sporting this watch on my wrist.
It seems to be encouraging you to explore the sea, almost as if its true aesthetical prowess can only be unlocked amidst the waters. This is an Eco-Drive watch that can be powered by any life source, which eliminates the need for batteries.
Casio G-Shock GWB5600CY-1
$120
This rugged piece comes in a bold, eye-catching black and yellow aesthetic, with a digital screen that allows for flawless connection to your mobile device. It is a Tough Solar watch (solar powered) and was constructed with the aim of providing a fully functional piece that is suitable for any outdoor activities. The case and bezel are made of Rezin and measure 42mm in diameter. Because of the high legibility of the screen, it’s very easy to read at night, and the watch can connect to up to 39 different time zones.
Seiko Prospex SRPE93 Turtle
$495
No, you are not misreading this. The SRPE93 is pretty much identical to the King Turtle previously mentioned. It measures and fits the same with the same stainless steel case and 4R36 movement. It has a darker color than the king turtle and a slightly dark bezel, which gives it a more subtle feel.
It still holds up the same underwater, with a 200m resistance, and it keeps that unidirectional bezel that Seiko loves so much.
Realistically, the only major difference is the price, which is surprisingly much cheaper than the King Turtle. I don’t really know the exact reason for the price drop, but I’m not complaining at all. Both pieces offer a high-quality dive feel and are worth every penny.
Lorier Neptune
$499
The Neptune is designed as if it came straight out of 1957, with a classic size, gilt details, a flat link bracelet, and a bubbly dome. It measures 39mm in diameter with a bracelet that fits up to 8-inch wrists.
This is one of the most stunning combinations of luxury and utility I have ever seen in a piece. It has an incredible finish, and the black dial has traces of little gold outlines along the hands and indices that make it shine.
Loreir fully embodies that vintage feel they are known so well for and gives us a piece that is both modern and efficient while paying homage to so many classics that have come before it. The Miyota 90S5 beats at 28,800 vph, while also delivering a 200 m water resistance that can handful any sort of strenuous activity you throw at it.
Scurfa Diver One Titanium
Price is TBD
The Diver One features a T2 Titanium case with a brushed finish, sapphire crystal, and luminous highlights to make this a fully functional dive watch as well as a fashionable watch that you can wear every day.
The black version features a stunning matte black dial with thick, glossy white hands to maintain that perfect legibility everyone craves on divers of this kind.
The case measures 40mm in diameter, and the watch is powered by an ETA F06.402, which is a Swiss-made movement. While I’m writing this, the Scurfa Diver One Titanium is scheduled to restock on February 17th, so keep an eye out for this magnificent piece that will return with all sorts of different colors for you to enjoy.
Dan Henry 1970 Diver
$310
This super-compressor-style watch is modeled after the Exactus Super Compressor. The 1970 Diver is available in both 40mm and 44mm stainless steel casing with small details that give it a more modern tone than the vintage Super Compressor.
The Seiko Caliber NH35 movement powers the piece, making it great for daily wear, and the rubber Tropic-style strap stays faithful to its vintage origins. This is a very chunky watch, measuring 14.8mm thick, making itself known on your wrist.
While this is built to withstand anything you throw at it, the Dan Henry Diver seems to be much more suited for casual wear as the aesthetic is more relaxed despite being quite large on the wrist. This is another one of those watches I can imagine wearing on a boat or perhaps at a garden party.
Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm Black Dial (ref. T120.410.11.051.00)
$450
The Seastar oozes in modern style, prioritizing performance and versatility above all else. The 40mm stainless steel watch caters to those who prefer a chic, tasteful watch that can offer the most efficient technical performance at all times.
The Seastar 1000 is named the Seastar 1000 because it can withstand 1000 feet of water pressure (300m), taking the diver title quite seriously.
It also offers a uni-directional rotating bezel for timely underwater activity, and of course, to offer legibility in the darkest of places, Super-LumiNova is applied to the watch’s hands and hour markers that omit low light. This is a quartz watch with a Renata 371 battery type—a far simpler variety of movement than we have seen on these other pieces.
Seiko Prospex SNE593 Solar Blue Dial
$495
The aim of Seiko Prospex is to meet every challenge they face with technological excellence. This Solar Diver has been upgraded with a larger case with a sleeker profile and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with solar efficiency that provides a 10-month power reserve when fully charged.
The highly legible blue dial is equipped with LumiBrite and a date window that is engineered to provide perfect legibility for the 200 meters that this watch is capable of exploring.
The case measures 42.8mm in diameter, making it a fairly large piece and providing a lot of space for the look of this watch to come alive. The rich blue stays true to other Seiko Divers of similar structure, but I feel like this one is the most detailed.
Citizen Promaster Dive Super Titanium (ref. BN0200-56E)
$440
The sturdy titanium is the highlight of this edition of the Promaster Superdive. It is five times harder and 50% lighter than stainless steel; and it looks far cleaner and is able to catch light in a transfixing way. Not only that, but it is also scratch-resistant and skin-friendly—essential features for any dive watch fan.
Another fairly quiet watch on this list, with nothing too grand about the aesthetic. It maintains a subtle look that is much more preferable in dive watches with a black dial and white indices that are—once again—enhanced with LumiBrite.
The bezel is simple and rotates in a satisfying manner, and the handsome undertone of this watch preaches a message of practicality that will stand out to enthusiasts.
Timex Deepwater Reef 200 Titanium Automatic 41mm
$479
The Deepwater Reef—as its name suggests—is engineered to go deeper. This piece merges resilience and elegance with crucial functions for underwater activities. A 41mm grade 2 titanium case offers 200m of water resistance that feels lighter than stainless steel.
The Miyota 8215 21-jewel Japanese automatic movement powers the watch with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.
Timex manufactured this piece to give deep-sea explorers everything they could ever need in a diver. The bezel has an incredible sense of luminosity that you can fully rely on as you explore beyond what you thought possible.
Casio Duro MDV106-1A
$69.95
The stark black and white of the Casi Duro combine to give us a very special aesthetic. The color pallet is simple, but it is done in a way that provokes a sense of refinement and luxury despite being one of the cheapest pieces on the list.
Measuring 44.2mm in diameter, this is another large piece that offers the standard protection of a diver, ensuring the wearer 200m of water resistance and a sturdy Resin band.
A straightforward diamond in the rough that will probably fly over most people’s heads due to the minuscule price. A bigger price doesn’t always mean the quality will match; this piece delivers a level of quality that overlaps the price tag numerous times.
Seiko Prospex “Arnie” SNJ025
$525
This watch is marketed for those who treat life as the ultimate adventure. Inspired by the landmark 1982 Hybrid Diver’s watch, this is a more modern take on the same piece that accompanied many explorers on their expeditions to Mount Everest, as well as making an appearance in many hit action films.
So, yes, the 1982 Hybrid left some very big shoes to fill. Fortunately, this is Seiko, and it seems like no matter how big the expectations are, they always deliver.
The Arnie measures 47.8mm but is incredibly lightweight due to the black matte material. It has a 200m water resistance and a Hardlex crystal, providing the most durability and scratch resistance you can find anywhere. The Caliber H851 powers this watch by light alone—no battery change required—with a 6-month power reserve once fully charged.
Luminox Military Navy Seal
$495
This watch was first introduced in 1994 and was developed strictly for the Navy SEALs. The numbers and dial on the bezel are famous for their clarity, and with one of the best nocturnal modes I have ever seen, this watch virtually remains fully legible even in the dark of night.
It measures 43mm in diameter with a CARBONOX case. The Swiss quartz movement offers simple yet efficient movement with a unidirectional rotating bezel that further solidifies this piece as a utilitarian marvel.
The strap is made from one of the firmest rubbers on the market, and it fits like a glove, making you forget how heavy-duty this military-minded piece truly is.
Conclusion
Dive watches continue to capture that utilitarian and elegant bliss that attracts many enthusiasts. When you market a piece as being able to withstand anything you throw at it, people become interested, but when you also equip them with some of the most elegant and transfixing designs of anything in the watch world, then folks are quick to pay attention.
Divers have a certain swagger that has transcended personal styles, appealing to one of the most broad fanbases in the industry. It’s simply because anyone who loves watches will find something to gush about on a diver.
There are small divers, there are big divers. There are bold divers; there are subtle divers, solar-powered, automatic, quartz, manual…the list just goes on and on. The good news is that divers seem to be in fashion, and there is no short supply of high-quality pieces waiting to be discovered.
I hope this list gave you some insight on the best bang for your buck watches that go toe to toe with even the multi-thousand dollar behemoths dominating the market, and I hope you learned you don’t always have to spend an arm and a leg to get something worth your while.
Rolex are Rolex. We all know them, so many of us love them, and it’s all for good reason. They’ve become the ultimate symbol of style, success, and craftsmanship, and that doesn’t change if you’re a die-hard collector or just someone who appreciates a great watch.
Why is Rolex so special? That’s not an easy question to answer in a few sentences. But they’ve somehow mastered the art of precision, durability, and timeless design, so timeless in fact that Rolex watches will effortlessly take you from an adventurous underwater situation to something formal in a boardroom.
But with a successful history comes options, and with over a century under this Swiss watchmaker’s belt, there are many Rolex watches out there to consider.
You have the Submariner, the Daytona, the Datejust and so many more, each with their own set of unique characteristics and story. So how do you choose? Well a good place to start is right here, exploring some of the best Rolex watches of all time.
How To Choose the Right Rolex Watch For You?
Before we get into the best Rolex watches of all time, first take a moment to consider what you want in a watch. Because at the end of the day, the perfect Rolex isn’t just about picking the most popular model but about finding the one that best suits you.
There are a few key things to consider like budget, style, sizing, and design preferences. Rolex watches are an investment, and while prices vary, even the most affordable options come with several zeros on the price tag to make up for that craftsmanship and prestige.
It’s also worth noting that Rolex is a brand built on timeless design. Their DNA has changed very little over the decades, and rightly so because they nailed it from the start.
Most models exude a classic, enduring style that never goes out of fashion so if you want something overly bold and funky, a different brand might be a better option. Although don’t leave just yet, because Rolex do have a small handful of bold exceptions you’ll see later.
It’s also true that different Rolex families are designed with specific environments in mind like the diving-inspired Submariner, the motorsport-driven Daytona, and the adventure-ready timepieces like the Explorer. But that doesn’t mean you need to be a diver to wear a Submariner, nor a motorsport enthusiast to rock a Daytona.
At the end of the day, choose the watch that speaks to you, offers the functionality you want, and has a style you’ll throw on effortlessly every day. The best Rolex for you is the one that brings you joy every time you glance at your wrist.
The 20 Best Rolex Watches of All Time
With so many iconic Rolex models out there, narrowing it down to the best of the best is no easy task. But that’s exactly what we’ve done here. Whether you’re into classic dress watches, legendary tool watches, or statement-making timepieces, we’re pretty confident there’s a Rolex watch down below that’s going to suit you.
Rolex Submariner
In the top spot, unsurprisingly, we have the Rolex Submariner. This isn’t just one of the best Rolex watches of all time, but it might just be one of the most important watches ever. Since its debut in 1953, the Submariner has shaped the entire world of dive watches and set the standard for what a luxury sports watch should be.
Its appeal is universal. The Sub has been on the wrists of explorers, divers, celebrities, and even James Bond cementing its place as a true icon. It’s rugged yet refined, designed for the deep sea but just as at home under a suit cuff. Over the decades, it has seen updates in materials, movements, and case proportions, but the core design remains as timeless as ever.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual
Before anything else, it’s important to clear up a common misconception. The words Oyster Perpetual appear on almost every Rolex, but here we’re talking about the actual watch model, not the technology behind it.
Oyster refers to Rolex’s famous waterproof case from 1926, while Perpetual represents the automatic movement introduced in 1931. Together, they make up the foundation of Rolex watchmaking.
The Oyster Perpetual itself is as classic as it gets. No date window and no complications; it’s just a clean, refined, and highly versatile design. For years, it was seen as a quiet classic rather than a headline grabber, but that changed in 2020.
New dial colors including vibrant turquoise and bright pink, along with a larger 41mm case option, has made it an instant favorite among collectors. The playful “Celebration” dial pushed things even further and has proved that Rolex can be bold when they want to be.
Rolex Explorer
When Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first climbers to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953, they carried a Rolex Oyster Perpetual with them. Inspired by this historic achievement, Rolex launched the Explorer later that year, cementing its place as the ultimate go-anywhere, do-anything watch.
Seventy years later, the Explorer remains largely unchanged and that’s exactly why people love it. The 36mm case, clean black dial, and bold 3-6-9 numerals make it one of the most versatile watches Rolex has ever created.
It’s sleek enough for the office yet rugged enough to withstand extreme conditions. The Rolex Explorer reference 1016, a model that has been produced for nearly three decades, remains one of the brand’s best-known cult favorites.
Rolex Explorer II
The Explorer II takes everything great about the original Explorer and dials up the adventure factor. While the Explorer I is all about simplicity, the Explorer II adds a bold, functional twist with a 24-hour hand and fixed bezel designed to help wearers distinguish between day and night.
But interestingly, the bezel doesn’t rotate, and in earlier versions, the 24-hour hand was linked to the main time, rather than independently adjustable so it’s not your standard GMT watch.
It’s a model ideal for cave explorers, polar adventurers, or anyone spending long periods in environments where the sun doesn’t rise or set. But let’s be honest not many people buying an Explorer II today are actually using it for spelunking.
What keeps this watch in high demand is its rugged, sporty design, larger case size, and that eye-catching orange hand, which gives it just the right amount of flair.
Rolex GMT-Master
The Rolex GMT-Master isn’t just a sharp-looking watch that’s also a large part of Rolex’s aviation history. Back in the 1950s, when long-haul flights were becoming a reality, Pan Am needed a timepiece that could track two time zones at once for its pilots. Rolex delivered, and in 1955, the GMT-Master was born, complete with a 24-hour bezel and an extra hour hand to track a second time zone.
The first-ever ref. 6542 came with a fragile Bakelite bezel, which Rolex quickly swapped for aluminum. By 1959, the legendary ref. 1675 arrived, bringing a larger 40mm case, crown guards, and the first COSC-certified movement in the series.
The GMT-Master I is no longer in production, but it remains highly sought-after, especially classics like the ref. 1675, which has been a collector’s favorite – albeit an expensive favorite – for many years.
Rolex GMT-Master II
The Rolex GMT-Master II took everything great about the original GMT-Master and made it even better. While the first GMT-Master is now discontinued, the GMT-Master II remains in production, proving just how popular and enduring this model is.
At first glance, the two watches look nearly identical, but the biggest upgrade came in 1983 when Rolex introduced a movement that allowed the 24-hour hand to be set independently from the main hour hand.
This simple tweak meant wearers could now track three time zones instead of two, one on the main dial, another with the 24-hour hand, and a third by rotating the bezel. It’s still one of Rolex’s hottest and hardest-to-get watches, especially in stainless steel, while older, discontinued versions offer great investment potential.
Rolex Datejust
The Rolex Datejust might not be the flashiest watch in the lineup, but it’s the backbone of Rolex’s success and one of the most instantly recognizable timepieces ever made. It debuted in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary and became the world’s first watch with a self-changing date window, setting the standard for modern date complications. It also brought us the Jubilee bracelet, an alternative to the sportier Oyster bracelet that adds a little extra refinement to the mix.
For many, the Datejust is their first Rolex since it’s the perfect blend of affordability, versatility and history. And while it may not grab headlines like the Explorer or Submariner, its everlasting appeal keeps it firmly at the heart of Rolex’s catalog proving that sometimes, the classics never go out of style.
Rolex Lady Datejust
Some of you might think this one’s a bit high on the list, but hear me out. The Lady-Datejust absolutely deserves its spot. As mentioned above, the classic Datejust has been a Rolex staple since 1945, and just over a decade later, in 1957, Rolex introduced a version tailored specifically for women.
Same iconic design, just in a more compact size. And while it might not get the same hype as some of Rolex’s better known sports models, by volume, it outsells many of them.
The Lady-Datejust keeps everything that made the original great like the Oyster case for water resistance, the self-winding movement, and that signature date window at 3 o’clock.
It just offered a much more compact design for those with smaller wrists. It’s a collection that also offers insane levels of variety with the case available in every metal finish, from Oystersteel to Everose gold, platinum, and even two-tone Rolesor models.
Rolex Day-Date
If this list were purely based on dream watches, the Rolex Day-Date would be sitting right at the top for me. There’s just something about it. It has the perfect blend of luxury, prestige, and practicality. It’s not quite a sports watch, but it’s not strictly a dress watch either.
The Day-Date made history when it launched in 1956 as the first watch to display both the date and the full day of the week. It also arrived with the legendary President bracelet, which debuted on this model and went on to earn the watch its famous “Rolex President” nickname. That nickname was also cemented by U.S. Presidents Lyndon B. Johnson, JFK (rumored, at least) and Ronald Reagan who had their own.
Rolex Daytona
The Rolex Daytona is the only chronograph in the Swiss watchmaker’s lineup and has become a symbol of the brand’s deep-rooted connection to motorsports. Since its debut in 1963, the Daytona has gone from a tool for race car drivers to one of the most coveted, valuable, and recognizable watches in the world.
If there’s one watch that defines vintage collecting, it’s the Paul Newman Daytona, a version of the ref. 6239 with an exotic dial that became legendary thanks to the actor and racing enthusiast himself. His personal watch sold for $17.8 million in 2017, setting the record for the most expensive vintage wristwatch ever sold.
That moment single-handedly launched the Daytona into another stratosphere of desirability. But even beyond vintage models, the modern Daytona is a grail piece for many collectors. Try walking into a Rolex boutique and asking for one and you’ll be met with years-long waitlists or a hefty price tag on the pre-owned market.
Rolex Perpetual 1908
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 launched in 2023 and quickly became Rolex’s answer to those seeking a sophisticated, dressier timepiece. With its sleek 18k yellow or white gold cases and minimalist black or white dials, it filled the gap left by the discontinued Cellini collection.
The watch features a subtle railroad track printing, applied markers, and Breguet-style hands, blending modern design with vintage elegance.
In 2024, Rolex introduced a platinum version with a stunning “rice-grain” guilloché pattern and a cool icy-blue dial, taking the Perpetual 1908 to new heights of luxury. Still young, this collection shows promise as one of Rolex’s most refined dress watches in years, offering an elegant balance of classic charm and modern precision.
Rolex Yacht-Master
The Rolex Yacht-Master, introduced in 1992, is another of Rolex’s well known sports watches. Designed with the boating community in mind, hence the name, it combines a sleek, diver-inspired aesthetic with high-end materials like gold and mother-of-pearl. Initially crafted from 18k yellow gold, it soon expanded to include a variety of metals and sizes, giving it widespread appeal among collectors.
Rolex’s Yacht-Master II came later, launching in 2007 and elevated the design with an additional regatta timer designed specifically for competitive sailing. It’s a Rolex all about precision and timing, making it a tool for sailors rather than casual enthusiasts. Although of course, you don’t have to be on board a boat to appreciate its design.
Rolex Sea-Dweller
While the Submariner is a great everyday dive watch, the Rolex Sea-Dweller is built for those who truly want to push the limits of underwater exploration. Introduced in 1967 for saturation divers, it offers more than triple the water resistance of the Submariner and features a helium escape valve to prevent crystal issues during decompression.
The most popular Sea-Dweller is without doubt the Deepsea reference worn by James Cameron during his Mariana Trench dive. It’s a watch with an astonishing 3,900 meter water resistance. Modern-day references continue to be a symbol of technical achievement and durability, whether it’s the larger 43mm case in 2017 or the luxurious Yellow Rolesor Sea-Dweller which joined in 2019.
Rolex Air-King
The Rolex Air-King, introduced in 1945 to honor RAF pilots from WWII, is one of the longest-running models in Rolex’s catalog. Initially a dress watch, it has evolved into a more rugged, professional tool watch. The modern version, revamped in 2022, features a 40mm case and a dial inspired by cockpit instruments, giving it a distinctive, utilitarian feel.
The Air-King’s legacy includes a variety of design updates over the years, from engine-turned bezels to concentric dials, but the most recent version seems to have struck the right balance. With its understated elegance, green accents, and aviation roots, it’s a watch that offers both historical significance and a unique place within Rolex’s professional tool watch lineup.
Rolex Cellini
The Rolex Cellini line sadly no longer exists, debuting in 1968 as the brand’s attempt to enter the world of luxury dress watches – something which was far removed from their tool-watch reputation. The Cellini was crafted with refined designs, precious metals, and sometimes even gemstones, making it the perfect choice for black-tie occasions. It was also pivotal in helping Rolex shift its brand identity, with a focus on luxury as much as functionality.
While the Cellini may not have received the same widespread affection as Rolex’s sportier models, it was an essential piece in the brand’s collection. Named after the Italian goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini, the line highlighted impeccable craftsmanship and elegance. The Cellini was also favoured by influential figures like former President Barack Obama, cementing its place as a symbol of understated luxury. Sadly, this historic line has come to an end, leaving behind the aforementioned Rolex 1908.
Rolex King Midas
The Rolex King Midas is undoubtedly one of the brand’s boldest and most unique creations. Released in 1964, this asymmetrical, 18k gold watch was designed by Gérald Genta (the very man behind the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus) and became the heaviest gold watch of its time.
With its chunky bracelet, crafted from a single block of gold, and its unconventional urn-shaped case, the King Midas was both a luxury piece and a statement of artistic design.
For a while, it was also the most expensive Rolex available and its exclusivity was underscored by its limited edition status. Famous owners like Elvis Presley and John Wayne continued to cement its value. The King Midas was eventually absorbed into the Cellini line and was later discontinued but it still remains one of Rolex’s most intriguing and rare models.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Milgauss was introduced in 1956 to cater to professionals working in environments with strong electromagnetic fields, like scientists, engineers, and doctors. Before its release, traditional watches would lose accuracy in high magnetic fields, but the Milgauss was designed to resist up to 1,000 gauss which was a significant breakthrough in horology at this time.
Initially tested at CERN, the watch quickly became a vital tool for those in the scientific community with its most distinctive feature being the lightning-bolt second hand, a nod to its scientific roots.
The Milgauss had a brief early history with models like the ref. 6541 and ref. 1019, and was later revived in 2007, with the most recent version featuring a unique green-tinted crystal. But it was discontinued again in 2023, and thus remains a rarity, making it a popular one with collectors.
Rolex Oysterquartz
The Rolex Oysterquartz was Rolex’s entry into the quartz revolution during the 1970s, a period marked by the rise of electronic timekeeping. Rolex spent five years developing its own quartz movement, and the result was a luxury watch that combined Rolex’s precision with the new-age technology of quartz.
Produced from 1977 to the early 2000s, the Oysterquartz is a quintessentially ’70s piece, featuring angular cases and integrated bracelets, reminiscent of the era’s design trends seen in watches like the Royal Oak and Nautilus.
The Oysterquartz was available in two main lines, the Datejust and Day-Date, with cases typically measuring 36mm. Despite being produced for 25 years, fewer than 25,000 Oysterquartz watches were ever made, making them relatively rare compared to Rolex’s other offerings.
While often overlooked today, the Oysterquartz remains a fascinating chapter in Rolex’s history, showcasing their commitment to innovation during a pivotal time in the watch industry.
Rolex Prince
The Rolex Prince is perhaps one of the brand’s most unexpected models, and it offers an intriguing glimpse into Rolex’s early innovation.
Introduced in 1928, the Prince was a rectangular watch with a distinct Art Deco design, and while it was intended for elegant, black-tie occasions, it became particularly popular with a specific group of professionals: doctors.
The Prince featured a seconds sub-dial that allowed medical professionals to measure a patient’s heartbeat, making it an unusual but highly practical tool for healthcare.
The original Rolex Prince was discontinued in 1940, but Rolex revived it in 2005 as part of the Cellini collection, before retiring it again in 2015. It’s definitely not the most famous Rolex watch, but it’s a fascinating example of a model built for function and style, and still an important piece of Rolex history.
Rolex Sky-Dweller
The Rolex Sky-Dweller, introduced in 2012, was designed to compete with luxury travel watches like the GMT-Master but with a more sophisticated, flashy twist.
While the GMT-Master catered to pilots, the Sky-Dweller was aimed at high-end travelers, offering a stylish 42mm case, mostly in precious metals like gold. It was a departure for Rolex, as it didn’t have a rich historical lineage to draw from, allowing the brand to create a completely new design.
Some of its most notable features include the Ring Command bezel which allows the wearer to adjust the month, date, and two time zones easily and the annual calendar and GMT complications.
It feels like Rolex is still writing its history on this one, since it’s still relatively new to their portfolio compared to so many of their other references, so who knows where its popularity will go.
Rolex Pearlmaster
The Rolex Pearlmaster was introduced in 1992 as the brand’s ultra-luxury, diamond-adorned variation of the Datejust. Exclusively crafted in precious metals, it featured an eye-catching, opulent design with a mirror-polished case and bracelet, adorned with at least 12 diamonds or gemstones.
It was initially offered in smaller sizes of 29mm and 34mm before eventually including some 34mm and 39mm versions.
This is a Rolex that was never a mainstream hit but garnered attention for its extravagant nature, appealing mostly to celebrities and the ultra-wealthy who appreciated its high jewelry aesthetic. For 30 years, the Pearlmaster stood as Rolex’s most flamboyant offering, with its bling-filled design eventually being integrated into other Rolex models.
It was eventually discontinued in 2022 but continues to live on as a symbol of Rolex’s brief flirtation with ultra-flashy, gemstone-studded timepieces.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual True Beat
Finally, we have the Rolex Tru-Beat. This is a watch introduced in 1954 and is something of a fascinating anomaly in watchmaking history. Featuring a “deadbeat” seconds hand, it ticks once per second, just like a quartz watch, but with the mechanical precision Rolex is known for. This rare complication was designed specifically for medical professionals to measure a patient’s pulse rate more easily.
The Tru-Beat’s mechanism was incredibly complex, as it had to slow down the usual sweeping motion of a mechanical movement to advance the seconds hand just once every tick. Despite its innovative design, the Tru-Beat was a niche product with limited appeal, and Rolex only produced it for five years. Consequently, the Tru-Beat is one of the rarest Rolex models, often commanding high prices when found at auction.
Conclusion
With so many incredible Rolex models out there, each offering something different from the next, choosing the right one can feel like an impossible task. Some models have been discontinued and are now only available on the second hand market, while others are so in demand that the waiting lists stretch for years.
But at the end of the day, the best Rolex isn’t just about rarity or price but about what speaks to you. Whether you’re drawn to a classic design like the Datejust, the rugged appeal of the Explorer, or the prestige of a Daytona, the best Rolex is the one that fits your style and lifestyle. Find the one that tickles your wrist in just the right way, then go out and make it yours. It won’t be cheap, but it’ll be worth it.
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