Orange may not be one of the most common dial colors for watches, but it’s certainly one of the most interesting. Watch brands have been using orange dials for more than half a century. While the color was originally used primarily for dive watches to increase visibility, orange can be used for several different styles of watches; though, it’s generally considered more of a sports watch hue than one that’s appropriate for a dress watch.
However, that’s not necessarily a hard and fast rule. There are a handful of dressy style watches that have a pop of orange accent to add just a bit more personality to an otherwise classic look. Check out the list we’ve compiled below of orange dial watches, and you’ll likely find something that suits your style. Now orange you glad you’re reading this?
So You Have an Orange Crush?
If you’re thinking of getting yourself an orange dial watch, then there are a few things you should consider first. What you plan to use the timepiece for is perhaps the most crucial factor in choosing the best orange dial watch for you. Next is the functionality of the watch as well as your budget. Ensure all of these factors are nailed down before you make your purchase.
About Orange Dial Watches
Though it’s hard to know what was the first ever orange dial watch, the Swiss brand Doxa is widely considered one of the first major watch brands to use a bright orange dial on their timepieces. As alluded to earlier, the first orange dial watches were designed to be highly legible, and style was less of a concern. However, throughout the years, there have been a number of watches that have incorporated orange onto the dial for reasons other than strict legibility.
Should You Buy an Orange Dial Watch?
Most orange dial watches are intentionally bold designs. Some are bold to increase legibility; others are bold for the sheer fun of it. There are also a few models that just offer a slight pop of color to spruce up an otherwise ordinary dial. One thing is for sure; you probably don’t want to buy an orange dial watch if you’re afraid of a little attention.
Orange dial watches garner looks because they’re so rare. Also, if you’re looking for something with extra bright legibility, whether it’s for diving or other low-light situations, then an orange dial watch might be the perfect choice for you.
Review the following list, and you’ll be sure to pick an orange dial watch that works for you (see what I did there?).
1. Tag Heuer Aquaracer Orange (ref. WBP201F.BA0632)
Tag Heuer is one of the most well-known luxury watch brands for a reason. They’ve been making high-quality watches of all sorts since 1860. In the 20th century, they made their name as a giant in the motor racing and sports watch industries. The Aquaracer is a great dive watch that you can depend on.
With a size of 43mm, a Tag Heuer Caliber 5 automatic movement with over 40 hours of power reserve, a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, and a screw-down crown with 300 meters of water resistance, this amazing dive watch will make you wonder why you never owned one before.
This cushion-cased beauty from Doxa has some serious diving chops. Rated at 1500 meters of water resistance, there are few places that this watch can’t go under the sea. It has all the bells and whistles you would expect from a professional-grade diver, including an ample diameter of 45mm, scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, screw-down crown, helium escape valve, and even a dive suit extension. So grab your gear and get in the water ASAP!
This slightly vintage-inspired Breitling Superocean 36 makes a real statement on the wrist. For starters, the diminutive 36mm case size is a reminder of the more modestly sized watches of the past. It also has gorgeous applied dagger indices and Arabic numerals at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock.
The bright orange dial and matching silicone branded strap more than make up for the wrist presence surrendered by the smaller case. It has a sapphire crystal, a Breitling automatic movement, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and an impressive 200 meters of water resistance.
Pilot’s watches may not be the first thing you think of when you hear orange dial, but from now on, they may just be top of your mind. This beautifully muted orange dial Oris ProPilot is pure style.
It has the classic ProPilot design, including a lightweight titanium case and bracelet, the caliber 400 Oris automatic movement with a mind-boggling 120-hour power reserve, 100 meters of water resistance, and a comfortable case size of 39mm. The beautiful bracelet also has a foldover clasp, ensuring a safe and secure fit on your wrist.
5. Rolex Oysterdate Precision 6694 Orange Dial
You can never really go wrong with Rolex, and this bright orange Oysterdate Precision is the perfect evidence of that. With a small size of 34mm, it’s lightweight and comfortable. It has a Rolex hand-wound movement and date window, and it’s made from Rolex’s solid 904L stainless steel.
Keep in mind that this is a slightly older watch than many on the list. That means that the advertised water resistance may not be quite up to the standard of the others. But who needs to go in the ocean when you’re strolling around the land with a sweet Rolex strapped to your wrist?
6. Nomos Glashütte Club Campus (ref. 710)
As one of the premier watch brands in the famed Glashütte region of Germany, Nomos has built an excellent reputation for quality and refined style. The Club Campus model also adds a bit of flare to that description with its gorgeous muted orange dial variant.
It has a classic diameter of 36mm, a clean and simple sub seconds dial, a beautiful gray velour leather strap, a domed sapphire crystal, and a lumed combination of Arabic and Roman numerals. This brand’s eye for design is always impressive, and the Club Campus is a perfect example of that. For being orange, this watch is just peachy!
7. Christopher Ward C60 Sapphire Orange (ref. S60-40ADA3-S00O0-B0)
Christopher Ward offers watches of all different stripes at a reasonable price. This C60 model is inspired by the sun. It has a deep orange color sapphire dial that allows you to see straight into the movement.
It also has a sapphire crystal covering the dial, a Sellita automatic movement, a unidirectional rotating bezel, a 40mm diameter, and 600 meters of water resistance. The 38 hours of power reserve will help you be sure to always be on time, even when you’ve taken a day off from diving.
8. Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Orange
If there’s one thing that nobody does better than Bell & Ross, it’s exciting and out-of-the-ordinary designs. This interesting angular watch offers an eye-catching square case design with four screws at the corners. But it’s not just about the looks.
The BR 03-92 also has 300 meters of water resistance, a solid flexible rubber bracelet, a reasonable 42mm diameter, a screw-down crown, and an AR-coated scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. This watch is sure to garner plenty of envious glances, both in and out of the water.
While most watches on this list tend to be in the sports watch realm, Longines has a far different offering. The Dolcevita is a rectangular dress watch series that fits in almost as well with jeans and a t-shirt as it does under a suit.
This orange dial variant has a small seconds sundial, a simple, clean dial design, a highly accurate quartz movement, and a diminutive width of just 23mm. This one can also serve as a unisex model, fitting both men and women in either a casual or formal setting.
10. Seiko Orange Monster SKX781
Seiko is one of the most well-respected watch brands on earth. Solid dive watches like the SKX781 are just one reason why that won’t likely be changing any time soon. It has a sturdy and attractive stainless steel diving bezel that rotates unidirectionally and a bright and highly visible orange dial.
The handset and applied indices have ample lume, and the rubber bracelet is sturdy and comfortable. It also has a virtually bulletproof Seiko automatic movement, a screw-down crown, and a respectable 200 meters of water resistance. This one does live up to its name. It’s a monster!
11. Doxa Sub 200 (ref. 799.10.351.21)
The Doxa Sub 200 really is one of the best-looking classic dive watches you’ll find anywhere. Based on some of their famed dive watches from decades earlier, the Sub 200 has 200 meters of water resistance, a size of 42mm, making it both unassuming and legible, and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.
The supple waterproof silicone strap matches the orange of the dial, and the date window at 3 o’clock will keep you diving on time. Add to that the screw-down crown for added water resistance, and you have yourself a tangerine dream!
12. Seiko 5 Sports GMT SSK005K1
Did you think we could finish this list without at least one more offering from Seiko? We think not. The SSK005K1 is yet another workhorse dive watch from the legendary Japanese brand. This one has attractive round indices with a large inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position. All have a lot of lume, and they look great next to the slightly reflective orange dial.
The watch has an automatic Seiko movement with a GMT function. That means you can track a second time zone without doing calculations in your head. It also has a 24-hour rotating bezel and a Hardlex crystal. It also has an amazing jubilee-style bracelet for a little extra pizazz.
13. Citizen Automatic NJ0128-80
Citizen is another Japanese brand that offers solid watches at a reasonable price. This orange dial and bezel watch show why they’ve become so popular. It includes 100 meters of water resistance, a size of 43mm, a legible date window, and stainless steel construction. The screw down crown ensures the highest level of pressurization and water resistance. This one gives you a lot of orange bang for your buck.
14. Seiko Turtle “Nemo” SRPC95K1
Seiko Prospex watches were developed with ocean exploration in mind, and this watch will definitely make you want to explore. It has a day date function, navy and orange unidirectional dive bezel, applied indices, a screw-down crown, and 200 meters of water resistance.
It’s a special edition watch and incorporates the iconic and durable Seiko turtle case that is sturdy and solid. This watch’s nickname is “The Nemo”, and one look at the orange stunner will have you understand why.
15. Edox Skydiver Neptunian Orange
Edox is a brand that’s known for making well-built and durable watches. This one has a beautiful gradient orange dial and a well-finished dive bezel. The handset is well-designed and easy to read, and the rubber bracelet is flexible and comfortable.
It has a substantial size at 44mm, a mind-blowing 1000 meters of water resistance, and it’s as cool looking as all get out! If you want a slightly more substantial orange dial watch on your wrist, grab this one while it’s still available.
Conclusion
Choosing a watch is never a simple, straightforward task, especially for those with the collecting bug. But if you can take our advice, you’ll surely be on the right track. No matter which orange dial watch you choose, be sure that it meets or exceeds all of your most basic criteria. Above all, just enjoy whatever you choose. Wearing an orange dial watch should be a fun experience, so just don’t get yourself bogged down in all the juicy details.
Over the past few years, a new trend has emerged in the world of luxury watches – the rising popularity of salmon dial watches. Once considered a niche choice, salmon dials have now become a must-have feature for many luxury watch brands.
This trend is particularly visible in vintage-inspired models, where salmon dials are becoming increasingly common and are often considered a hallmark of high-end luxury timepieces. Salmon dials are characterized by their warm, pinkish-orange hue.
They are often created through a complex process of layering different colors and finishes on a silver base, giving them their unique, multi-dimensional appearance. In addition to their distinctive color, salmon dials are also prized for their ability to change appearance in different lighting conditions, from a soft, muted shade to a bright and vibrant hue.
Historical Review of the Salmon Dial
Salmon dial watches first appeared in the 1920s and 1930s, but it was not until the 1940s and 1950s that they gained widespread popularity. During this time, salmon dials were a standard feature on high-end dress watches and were often paired with gold or rose gold cases.
However, they gradually fell out of favor in the following decades as other styles of dials became more popular. Crafting a salmon dial is a complex process requiring high skill and attention to detail. The dials are typically made from a base of silver that is coated with several layers of color and finish to create the final salmon hue.
The exact process can vary depending on the brand and model, but it often involves a combination of electroplating, painting, and heat treatment. The result is a dial that has a rich, multi-dimensional appearance.
Should You Buy a Salmon Dial Watch?
The decision to purchase a salmon dial watch ultimately depends on personal preference and style. While salmon dials are currently a popular trend in the world of luxury watches, there may be better choices for some.
In terms of style, salmon dials can work well with a variety of outfits and occasions. Their distinctive color can add a touch of personality and character to an otherwise simple or classic watch design. However, it’s worth considering whether a salmon dial will complement your existing wardrobe and personal style.
A salmon dial may clash or draw too much attention if your wardrobe is mostly composed of muted or monochromatic colors. Similarly, there is no specific season or work environment where a salmon dial is more appropriate.
They can be worn year-round and in various settings, including formal occasions, the workplace, and casual settings. However, it’s worth noting that a salmon dial’s warm, orange-pink tone may be better suited to spring and summer when lighter and brighter colors are more prevalent.
The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is a unique and beautiful timepiece. The 41mm platinum case has a thickness of 12.4mm and is complemented by the distinctive salmon dial, which sets this version apart from the classic silver-tone dial.
The dial features applied hour markers and multiple sub-dials to display the perpetual calendar information, including the day, date, month, and moon phase. The chronograph function is displayed through a sub-dial, allowing the wearer to accurately measure elapsed time.
The watch is powered by a mechanical self-winding movement, caliber CH 29-535 PS, which has a power reserve of up to 65 hours and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The salmon dial, combined with the platinum case, creates a warm and inviting, elegant, and modern aesthetic.
The watch is finished with a black alligator strap and a fold-over clasp, making it the perfect choice for the discerning collector who desires a unique and stylish timepiece.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo with a salmon dial is a magnificent timepiece that embodies luxury and precision. The watch features a 39mm 18-carat white gold case with a thickness of 8.1mm and is housed by the iconic octagonal bezel, secured by eight hexagonal screws.
The white gold hands and markers against the pink gold-toned dial add a touch of cordial and classic. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 2121 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. The timepiece is finished with a matching 18-carat white gold bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.
Price: $213,215
3. ROLEX AIR-KING 34MM 114200
The Rolex Air-King is simply timeless. The watch features a 34mm stainless steel case and a simple yet elegant salmon dial, accented by applied hour markers and hands in white gold. The watch is powered by the self-winding caliber 3130 movement, which has a power reserve of up to 48 hours and is protected by a durable Oyster case, making it suitable for everyday wear.
The watch is finished with a stainless-steel bracelet and a fold-over clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist. The Rolex Air-King is an excellent entry-level Rolex. Still, the salmon dial’s uniqueness and recent resurgent popularity set this version apart from the classic models, making it a standout choice for the discerning collector.
Breitling is mostly known for their dependability and the pilot functions of their tool watches, but they aren’t always considered trendsetters in the design space, at least in recent decades. This watch might just change that. The B25 Datora is timepiece artwork at its best. The watch is encased in stainless steel with a salmon dial.
The three subdials are all subtly sunken, and the day and date are set back from the main dial. The moon phase calendar is simply majestic. All the details, from the spacing of the text to the syringe hands, exude class. You could be forgiven for mistaking this timepiece for a Patek Phillippe. It’s that lovely.
In typical Breitling fashion, this watch is big, bringing you back down to earth a bit. The case size is 42mm in diameter. It’s 15mm thick and sits high on the wrist. However, if you’re used to Patek pricing, the cost of this timepiece will put a smile back on your face.
The caliber B25 movement offers a 48-hour power reserve and includes the features of time, chronograph, calendar, and moon graph. All this is paired with a brown alligator leather strap.
Price: $13,500
5. ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL 31MM 77080
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31mm 77080, with the salmon dial, is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece. The watch is powered by a self-winding automatic and is water resistant up to 100 meters, which means it is suitable for swimming and snorkeling but not deep-sea diving. The watch is encased in stainless steel, and the case size is 31mm. It features a salmon-colored dial with silver-tone hands and indexes.
The Rolex 77080 features a stainless-steel Oyster bracelet with an Oysterclasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet also features an Easylink comfort extension link that allows you to adjust the size of the bracelet without the need for tools, making it easy to get the perfect fit.
Price: $2,300
6. BREGUET TYPE XX-XXI-XXII 39MM 3820
The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantique is a sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed and crafted by the luxury Swiss watchmaker Breguet. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a rotating bezel and a salmon-colored dial, which gives the watch a unique and stylish look.
The watch is powered by the caliber 582, based on a Lemania 1350. It features a flyback chronograph function, allowing the wearer to time multiple events without the need to stop and reset the chronograph.
The Breguet Type XX-XXI-XXII Transatlantiquel also has a date display at the 6 o’clock position and is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The watch comes with a brown leather strap and a steel folding clasp, providing a secure and comfortable fit.
Price: $16,545
7. ROLEX DATEJUST SALMON ROMAN DIAL 36MM 16220
The salmon color dial with roman numeral hour markers adds a touch of uniqueness and sophistication to the watch, making it stand out from other models in the Datejust line. The dial also features a date display at the 3 o’clock position with a cyclops lens, which magnifies the date for easy reading.
The DateJust 16220 features a 36mm stainless steel case with a smooth bezel, which gives it a sleek and elegant appearance.
The 1315 automatic in-house movement features a 42-hour power reserve. As is standard on most Rolex’s, the timepiece includes a waterproof screw-down crown and is water resistant up to 100 meters.
The watch comes with a stainless-steel Jubilee bracelet with a folding clasp, which provides a secure and comfortable fit. The bracelet features a polished center link and brushed outer links, which gives it a sophisticated and refined look.
Price: $3,200
8. A. LANGE & SÖHNE DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON 41.5MM 740.056
The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon is a highly sophisticated and elegant timepiece designed by the renowned German watchmaker. The watch features a platinum case and a stunning salmon-colored dial.
The dial features a combination of Arabic numerals, baton-style hour markers, and luminescent hands. It also has subdials for the chronograph function, perpetual calendar, and moon phase indicator, which displays the current phase of the moon.
The perpetual calendar is accurate until 2100 and includes day, date, month, leap year, and day/night indicators. The case size is 41.55mm. The watch is powered by a highly complex and accurate movement, the caliber L952.2, which features a tourbillon and a flyback chronograph function.
The tourbillon is visible through the sapphire crystal case back and serves to improve the accuracy of the watch by compensating for the effects of gravity on the movement. The Perpetual Tourbillon is a limited-edition timepiece, with only 100 pieces produced worldwide.
The watch comes with a dark brown alligator leather strap with a platinum deployant buckle, providing a secure and comfortable fit. This timepiece is a masterpiece of watchmaking and is a highly desirable and sought-after timepiece, perfect for collectors and watch enthusiasts who appreciate the finest in horological craftsmanship.
Price: $278,800
9. PATEK PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR 39MM 5450P-001
The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is a stunning and sophisticated timepiece. This watch is housed in a platinum case, measuring 39mm in diameter, and features a beautiful salmon-colored dial that adds a touch of elegance to the overall design.
The watch features a perpetual calendar complication that displays the day, date, and month and requires adjustment only once a year in February. It also has a moon phase display that shows the current phase of the moon. The dial features applied white gold hour markers and dauphine-style hands.
This model is powered by an automatic movement, the caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/303, which is one of Patek Philippe’s most accurate and reliable movements. The movement has a power reserve of approximately 45 hours and features a 21k gold rotor that provides efficient winding.
The watch also features a sapphire crystal case back, which allows the wearer to admire the exquisite finishing of the movement. The platinum case is water-resistant up to 30 meters, providing ample protection from the elements.
Price: $81,250
10. GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL PANOMATICLUNAR 40MM 1-90-02-12-32-30
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar offers a unique and elegant design. The watch features a 40mm stainless steel case and a salmon-colored dial that gives it a distinctive and eye-catching appearance.
The dial features a classic Panorama Date display, along with a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and a moon phase display at 2 o’clock. The moon phase display is particularly impressive, featuring a beautiful golden moon and stars set against a deep blue background, adding an element of romance and mystery to the design.
The watch is powered by a caliber 90-02 automatic movement visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The movement features a 42-hour power reserve and is beautifully decorated with Glashütte Original’s signature three-quarter plate, a swan-neck regulator, and a hand-engraved balance cock.
The dial is completed with a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, which complements the color scheme of the watch perfectly. The strap is secured with a stainless-steel folding clasp, providing a comfortable and secure fit on the wrist.
Price: $10,409 (Priced at the exchange rate at the time of this article.
The case of the Montblanc Heritage measures 40mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is both polished and brushed, giving it a refined and modern look. The watch’s bezel is also made from stainless steel and is fixed.
The watch is powered by a Swiss-made automatic movement, the MB 24.27, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours. The sophisticated salmon dial of the Montblanc Heritage is adorned with anthracite-colored Arabic numerals markers and luminous hands.
Price: $2,435
12. NOMOS GLASHÜTTE TANGENTE RED DOT 164.S10
This limited-edition watch is a celebration of the Red Dot Design Award that NOMOS won in 2018, and it is sure to turn heads with its unique salmon dial.
The case of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot 2018 measures 37.5mm in diameter and is made from stainless steel. The case is polished to a high shine, giving it a luxurious appearance.
The watch is powered by a hand-wound mechanical movement, the NOMOS Alpha. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back and features a Glashütte three-quarter plate and blued screws, adding to the watch’s elegant and sophisticated aesthetic.
The salmon dial of the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente Red Dot is the star of the show, with its vibrant color and clean, minimalist design. The dial features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are slim and elegant, providing excellent visibility even in low-light conditions.
The dial includes a small seconds sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position, adding a practical element to the watch.
This model is finished with a brown Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather strap, which is both comfortable and stylish. The strap is secured with a stainless steel tang buckle, ensuring the watch stays securely on the wrist.
Price: $2,340
13. VARIO ECLIPSE SUNSTONE 38MM
The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is a unique and stylish timepiece combining classic design and modern flair. The watch features a 38mm stainless steel case polished to a high shine, providing a luxurious appearance. The case has a thickness of 7mm.
The standout feature of the Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch is its dial, and convex salmon color sunburst, which gives the watch a beautiful and distinctive appearance. The sunstone dial is a warm shade of orange and has a captivating shimmer, which changes depending on the angle of the light.
The dial is complemented by gold-tone hour markers and hands. The watch is powered by a Seiko VH31 mechaquartz movement. The Vario Eclipse Sunstone watch comes with a brown leather strap, which is both stylish and comfortable.
Price: $218
14. SINN 356 SA PILOT II 38.5MM 356072
The Sinn 356 case has a satin finish, which gives it a sleek and sophisticated appearance. It’s made from stainless steel and measures 38.5mm in diameter, which is ideal for both men and women. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters.
The dial of the Sinn 356 Sa Pilot II is a warm shade of salmon and features silver-tone hour markers and hands, which are coated with luminescent material. The dial also includes a day and date display at the 3 o’clock position, which adds to the watch’s practicality.
The watch is powered by the Swiss-made Sellita SW-300-1 automatic movement. The movement is visible through the exhibition case back, showcasing the watch’s intricate inner workings. Paired with a handsome brown leather strap or a stainless-steel bracelet.
Price: $2,695
15. ALPINA STARTIMER PILOT HERITAGE GMT 42MM AL-555RGS4H6
The Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage GMT is handsomely styled with a retro ‘70s look and is paired perfectly with a salmon dial, which features an eye-catching metallic sheen. The case is made from stainless steel and measures 42mm in diameter, which is an ideal size for most men’s wrists. The case has a brushed and polished finish, which gives it a classy appearance.
The date is displayed at the 3 o’clock position. The watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters. The Alpina Startimer Pilot is powered by the Swiss-made AL-555 automatic movement. The watch is finished with a brown leather strap with contrasting white stitching.
Price: $1,395
16. MONTBLANC HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH 40MM 119914
This timepiece has a charming, old-fashioned quality to the design. The Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph features a salmon dial with a sunburst finish. The hour markers and hands are black, which complements the warm tones of the salmon. The watch has a pulsometer function, which allows the wearer to measure their heart rate by counting the number of heartbeats in a set amount of time.
The pulsometer scale is printed in black on the outer edge of the dial and is used in conjunction with the chronograph function to measure the heart rate. The case of the Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph is made of stainless steel and has a diameter of 40mm.
The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch is powered by the Montblanc Caliber MB M13.21, a hand-wound movement that has a power reserve of approximately 55 hours. The watch is completed with a black leather strap with a stainless-steel buckle.
Cartier is a French luxury goods brand founded in 1847 by Louis-Francois Cartier. While the company initially focused on jewelry and other luxury items, it was in the early 20th century that Cartier began producing watches.
Since then, Cartier has become one of the world’s most iconic watch brands, known for its distinctive designs, high-quality craftsmanship, and technical innovations. This timepiece is classy and distinctive.
The salmon dial with its soft circular pattern, silver roman numerals, sharp blue hands with black lettering, and its highly polished case and fluted crown is a fine work of art.
The case size is 33mm, and the thickness is 10.16 mm. It features an automatic movement and is paired with a brushed stainless steel bracelet.
The rectangular, salmon dial of the Tetra Divine Spark has a beautiful sunburst finish, which gives it a subtle shimmer in different lighting conditions. The dial is also adorned with a small seconds sub-dial, positioned at the 6 o’clock position. The sub-dial is framed by a polished steel ring, adding elegance to the overall design.
The case of the Tetra Divine Spark is made of polished stainless steel and measures 29.5mm x 29.5mm. The watch has sapphire crystal glass curved on both sides, giving it a unique and distinctive look. The Tetra Divine Spark is powered by the NOMOS Alpha movement, a highly regarded and precise manual-wind movement that has a power reserve of up to 43 hours.
The movement is handcrafted in-house by NOMOS Glashütte, a German watchmaker that is known for its dedication to quality and precision. The timepiece is paired with a velour gray leather strap with a pin buckle.
The Montblanc Heritage GMT is a beautiful timepiece that features a unique salmon dial. The watch is part of the Montblanc Heritage collection, known for its vintage-inspired design elements and high-quality craftsmanship.
The salmon dial is characterized by its sunburst finish. The dial is also adorned with a polished domed dial with applied Arabic numerals, dots as indexes, and a domed sapphire crystal.
The case is made of stainless steel and measures 40mm in diameter. The case has a polished finish and is water-resistant to 50 meters. The watch also features a bi-directional rotating bezel that is engraved with a 24-hour scale, allowing the wearer to easily track a second time zone.
The timepiece is powered by the Montblanc caliber MB 24.05, an automatic movement that has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours.
Fears is a British watch brand that was established in 1903 by a watchmaker named Aaron Lufkin Dennison. The brand was originally called “Dennison Watch Case Company” and was primarily known for producing high-quality watch cases.
In the 1920s, the company began producing complete watches under the Fears brand name. The timepieces were known for their precision and durability and were popular among military and professional users.
The brand became especially famous for its military watches, which were used by the British military during World War II. The Brunswick’s copper salmon dial is a nod to vintage designs from the ‘40s and ‘50s and was created with 18c gold and copper and finished with a brushed look.
The skeletonized hands look blue in some lights and black in others. There’s also a sunken sub-seconds dial at the 6 o’clock position. The timepiece is encased in 316L steel, and the case size is 38mm. It’s powered by an ETA 7001 automatic movement.
Price: $3,000
PARTING THOUGHTS
Luxury salmon dial watches have become a popular trend in the world of luxury watches thanks to their distinctive and unique appearance. The warm and inviting tone of a salmon dial is a refreshing change from traditional black and white dials, making them a perfect addition to any watch enthusiast’s collection. The history and craftsmanship behind these watches are a testament to the dedication and attention to detail that goes into their creation.
While the decision to purchase a salmon dial watch comes down to personal preference and style, these watches offer a level of character and distinction unmatched by other styles. As the popularity of these watches continues to rise, it’s clear that salmon dial watches are here to stay, making them an excellent investment for collectors and enthusiasts alike.
The firmament has enthralled humans since time immemorial, but space travel has remained largely inaccessible to most. In 2021 Virgin Galactic, a space tourism company, sold 90-minute rides to suborbital space for about $450,000 per seat.
Axiom Space, another company that offers human spaceflight services to individuals and groups, was also marketing a 10-day trip to Space for $55 million at that time. The figures show how much space exploration has been reserved for the elite few.
But what if you could still have something truly out of this world without spending half a million dollars? What if you could own an extraterrestrial piece from a comet, asteroid, or meteoroid?
Introducing meteorite dial watches, the perfect amalgamation of time and space! Coming from cosmic rocks that survived a journey of hundreds of miles through the atmosphere to get to the Earth’s surface, meteorites are debris from asteroids or even exploding planets.
Here we take a look at the best watches equipped with superbly inviting meteorite dials.
About Meteorite Dial Watches
Meteorites are both astrological and mystifying. These unusual celestial materials have been used to make jewelry for decades. In 1922, a team of Egyptian excavators (led by Howard Carter) found meteorites among the objects retrieved from the tomb of Tutankhamun.
In the watch industry, however, its use is a recent occurrence. It’s not certain which meteorite watch was the very first, but in 1986, Corum unveiled a timepiece with a meteorite dial. The meteorite used was one discovered by Robert E. Peary (a famous explorer) in Greenland, and the watch was called the ‘Corum Admiral’s Cup Legend 42 Meteorite Dual Time watch‘.
Rolex is another brand that has used slices of meteorites to make elegant dials for decades within the Daytona and the Day-Date collection. Nevertheless, with the advent of the 21st century, many high-end brands began to unveil meteorite dials intermittently.
Each meteorite is literally out of this world, and the dials with them feature a naturally occurring configuration that cannot be replicated synthetically. Apart from their rarity within the horological world, they became famous for their mesmerizing appearance due to prominent Widmanstätten structures.
The striations and patterns are highlighted after the slice of meteorite to be used for the dial has been cleaned, polished, and ‘etched’ with an acid (often nitric acid). These are called Widmanstätten patterns after Beckh Widmanstätten, who was director of the Imperial Porcelain Works at Vienna in 1808.
It was he who discovered that heating iron meteorites influences their natural luster and reveals a fine interleaving of long nickel–iron crystals that are both dramatic and distinctive.
Should You Buy A Meteorite Dial Watch?
Mysterious and architectural, meteorite watches tell a compelling story that will make a difference to the wearer anytime, any day. From outer space to planet Earth and then to watch’s face, these space rocks travel billions of miles across the universe to get to a timepiece. That said, why would anyone desire anything less?
Not only do you get a chance to own a piece of the molten planetary core that has existed for billions of years, but you also get to hold a fingerprint of the universe in your hands. I say this because each meteorite dial is unique. So no two meteorite watches produced will ever appear the same.
Collectors who view their passion for obtaining rare timepieces as a convergence of time and space would find these space-material watches particularly satisfying.
Many meteorite timepieces are elegant conservative dress watches and make a great ‘tuxedo timepiece’ for formal occasions. However, some of these are also known to offer a few ‘extras’ upon closer inspection, so they end up fitting various styles and can be used in any season.
12 Best Meteorite Dial Watches
1. Rolex Day-Date Meteorite Dial (ref. 228239)
Coming in an 18kt 40mm white gold case, the Day-Date (the first timepiece to spell out the day of the week in full) is the ultimate watch of prestige. Its meteorite dial features a unique crystalline crosshatch pattern called the Widmanstätten pattern or Thomson structure.
18kt white gold hands adorn the luxe face of the dial, while baguette diamond index hour markers add excellence to the overall visage.
With a 12mm case thickness, a lug-to-lug distance of 47.4mm, and an 18kt white gold President bracelet, the timepiece epitomizes wealth, and will accommodate a variety of medium-sized wrists. Rolex’s fluted bezel with a wavy design is instantly recognizable for gracing the watch pleasantly.
An arched day indicator window can be seen at the 12 o’clock position. Beneath it is a polished Rolex logo and the words ‘Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day Date’ neatly spelled out. At the 3 o’clock position is the date window with a cyclops magnifier that has been integrated with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal to heighten the legibility of the date window.
Oscillating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is Rolex caliber 3255, an automatic movement with 31 jewels. It provides an outstanding power reserve of 70 hours.
Trends come and slowly fade out of existence, but never extolled timepieces like the Omega Speedmaster. Since the Speedmaster’s tryst with fate in 1969 when the original model landed on the moon, the collection has continued to be included in NASA’s certified equipment for space.
But the world is evolving, and the Speedmaster Professional has also been transformed into something more elegant, resplendent, and ostentatious.
The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Meteorite is one of the most glamorous versions of the collection, boasting a slice of the rare piece of extra-terrestrial rock that hit planet Earth in prehistoric times.
The sleek gray ceramic case measures 44.25mm in diameter and has two recessed chronograph pushers bordering the winding crown. The bezel is Omega’s patented 18k Sedna gold, and the red gold alloy has also been employed in the making of the hands and applied makers.
The gray dial is breathtaking and has light-colored streaks organically integrated with darker bands to give a unique combination. Two sub-dials are neatly placed at 3 and 9 o’clock, while a date window is at the 6 o’clock position. A sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment on both sides protects the dial.
The Speedmaster Meteorite is powered by the Omega Co-Axial Caliber 9300, a top-tier automatic chronograph movement that offers the wearer up to 60 hours of power reserve. It is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters and comes mounted on a gray leather strap with a titanium foldover clasp.
3. Rolex GMT Master II Meteorite Dial (ref. 126719BLRO)
The Rolex GMT Master ll meteorite watch is arguably the most practical awe-inspiring timepiece out there. That said, if you are searching for a rare watch that is refined and compelling from Rolex, look no further.
The remarkable quality of the utilitarian timepiece is akin to other sports watches from Rolex, but the magnificence of the Gibeon meteorite is what takes it to another league. The white gold case measures 40mm in diameter, comes with a screw-down case back and Triplock winding crown, and has been mounted on a white gold Oyster bracelet.
Like many other meteorite dials from Rolex, the sliced piece of Gibeon meteorite has been treated with an acid wash to reveal the streaky surface known as Widmanstätten patterns. Applied white gold indices and bold hour markers adorn the face of the dial, and both have been generously filled with Chromalight luminous solution.
A scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the watch’s dial, while a cyclops lens magnifies the date display at 3 o’clock. The bezel features a two-color Cerachrom insert in red and blue ceramic, and the watch has been designed to tell the time simultaneously in two different time zones.
Powering the watch is the caliber 3285, Rolex’s in-house movement with a Parachrom hairspring, a Superlative-Chronometer certification, and a Chronergy escapement. The robust movement delivers an impressive power reserve of approximately 70 hours and an accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
Presented on a non‑grained alligator leather strap, the 42mm platinum-cased watch represents the height of haute horlogerie. I consider this piece an enchanting window into the world of space.
The dial is a true reminiscence of the vintage Speedmasters but is more spectacular and refined as it is fashioned out of polished black onyx. The lush onyx dial lays the foundations for the three chronograph sub-dials that are all made with slices of lunar meteorite.
The streaked slate-gray meteorite subdials have been positioned at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. At 3, you will find the small seconds subdial, at 6 is the 30-minute counter, and at 9 o’clock is the 12-hour counter. 18K white gold has been used for the hour and minute hands, while plated brass is used for the central second hands.
The dot over 90 or DO90 Bezel is a fascinating detail for ambitious collectors. Speedmaster fans will immediately notice that Omega has trailed the path of the vintage models that used this same bezel design until the 1970s. The bezel printing features a little indicator or dot above 90 on the tachymeter scale.
Other details that bear a resemblance to the original models include the double-step case back, a second hand with a teardrop tip, the memorable bezel layout, and even the Omega logo with the inscription “Professional” at 12 o’clock.
This timepiece houses the legendary Calibre 321, which is another heartwarming fact. A true veteran of space travel, the Calibre 321 still beats at 18,000vph, which is its normal slow pace; however, the power reserve is now 55 hours. It can be viewed through the sapphire-crystal case back.
5. Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon
Behold one of the most ingenious and exceptionally impressive haute horology icons. The Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon! Representing a powered sculpture as much as an accurate timing machine, this watch is a tourbillon with an avant-garde, built-on-demand moon phase that is drawn up with the help of a pusher on the case.
The timepiece, which was designed in collaboration with Renaud & Papi, comes in a platinum case that measures 47mm in diameter with a thickness of 16.65mm. The timepiece is hefty and large, going by its measurement and robust arching lugs.
But the large size contributes to revealing the ostentatious openwork construction of its breathtaking dial and the profound complication of the movement within. According to the timepiece’s name, the watch brings in the presence of planet Earth and outer space, as seen in the appearance of a polished meteorite stone and platinum.
Following the supreme tradition of Cartier Fine Watchmaking, the Rotonde de Cartier Earth and Moon watch presents two displays through an impressive interplay of indications. The usual display that shows the local time with a time zone indicator appears as a 24-hour disc on one side. Then a lunar display with a juxtaposed tourbillon and Moon-phase on-demand is on the other side.
The Ref.WHRO0013 features two sub-dials, each with a disc of meteorite stone. The subdial at the top of the timepiece houses the elegant Cartier blued-steel hands and is for telling time. It can be adjusted by the pusher at 2 o’clock.
The other meteorite disc, partly concealed at 4 o’clock, comes entirely into view with the help of the second pusher, which will automatically eclipse the tourbillon. Ticking at 21,600 vibrations per hour is the caliber 9440 MC movement with a mainspring that provides up to 72 hours of power reserve. The breathtaking movement can be savored through the case-back of the watch.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona Meteorite is presented in three elegant variants. The first option is an 18k white gold case watch mounted on an Oysterflex bracelet. It flaunts a black ceramic monobloc Cerachrom bezel and a tachymetric scale.
The second and third options are 18K yellow gold, and 18-carat Everose gold (Rolex’s proprietary rendition of rose gold) watches with metallic bezels and Oyster bracelets, respectively.
Rolex takes the trio to a whole new level by adding a flawless meteorite dial to the classic Daytona formula. Technically, the Daytona recipe has not changed; the same 40mm gold case is used here, the black ceramic or gold bezel, and the robust caliber 4130 movement powers all three watches.
Only the meteorite dial makes this watch stand out with a unique personality. The Widmanstätten pattern or streaky configuration created by the crystalline framework of the meteorite has been polished but still retains a rougher appearance than the smoothly-finished lacquered dials of other Daytonas.
The Rolex coronet logo, applied hour markers, hour, minutes and seconds hands, and chronograph register borders sport the same color as the case. The fixed bezel has an engraved tachymeter scale and a screw-down crown which uses the Rolex Triplock system to ensure the timepiece is water resistant up to 100 meters.
The hands and hour markers are generously filled with Rolex’s Chromalight for excellent legibility in low-light conditions.
Beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the self-winding caliber 4130 with 44 jewels and 201 components. The watch comes with a 5-year warranty and has an impressive power reserve of approximately 72 hours when fully wound.
7. De Bethune DB28XP
Firmly established as an innovative watchmaker in the micro space of high-end luxury watches, De Bethune is recognized for its technological mastery, avant-garde movements, ingenuity, and impressive materials.
The brand, founded by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet in 2002, has continued the art of traditional making with cutting-edge technologies. The De Bethune DB28XP is the immaculate manifestation of the brand’s watchmaking ideology.
The case has been finished in matte black Zirconium oxide, which is superior to the traditional cases used for most watches and is nearly impossible to scratch. It measures just right at 43mm and 7.3mm high and will sit snugly on the wrist, thanks to the floating skeletonized lugs from De Bethune.
The meteorite used for the dial is believed to be “Muonionalusta”, and the brand’s expertise has enabled it to create an outstanding design from the heated meteorite. The blued meteorite dial has been interspersed with marked purple tones, and finally, a lineup of white gold pins has been driven by hand into the dial’s surface.
An anthracite hour ring with pink gold Arabic numerals adorns the dial, while the arrow-shaped hour and minute hands match the surrounding chamfered blue polished steel rim.
It is fitted with the aesthetically imposing Calibre DB2115v7 that can be seen through an opening at 6 o’clock.
8. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf SS Automatic Meteorite Dial
Zodiac is a watch brand with a unique heritage. Credited with manufacturing the first automatic sports watch, the watchmaker is known for offering excellent Swiss watches with innovative designs.
Presented in stainless steel that measures 40mm in diameter, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf timepiece features a gray and orange color scheme that draws attention to the meteorite dial.
The meteorite used here is believed to be the ancient Muonionalusta Meteorite discovered in Sweden in 1906. The unique patterns give the dial a look that no other watch on Earth will share with it and enhance the natural configuration of the dark dial; gray and black accents have been used for the hands and hour markers.
The case and bracelet are DLC gray to compliment the dial, while the gray bezel inserts feature orange accents that legibly display the first indexed 15 minutes. Much attention has been given to the dial to make it ultra-legible and practical.
The hands are baton-shaped, the hour markers are rectangular, and both have been generously filled with lume to offer profound readability in low-light conditions. A lone screw-down winding crown can be seen at the 3 o’clock position, and together with a compact stainless steel case back, 200 meters of water resistance is guaranteed.
The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal and comes mounted on a 5-link stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly-style deployment clasp. Beating in the heart of the watch at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Swiss-made automatic STP 1-11, with 26 jewels that provide 44 hours of power reserve.
Jaquet Droz is a renowned mechanical genius famous for its watches, songbirds, and androids. The brand has adhered to the highest possible standards in its sophisticated designs and intricate mechanism.
Many people familiar with the elegant designs of the high-end luxury watchmaker will not find the signature figure eight on this dial strange. This time, however, it has been tilted by about 30 degrees, including the movement, so the crown has moved to the 4 o’clock position.
The meteorite dial lends the watch a distinctive character with its Widmanstätten pattern, while the eccentric Jaquet Droz-styled dial transforms the entire wristwatch into a piece of art. The timepiece is completely breathtaking, with its off-center hour and minute display being positioned towards the Northeast location of the dial.
It interlaces with the applied gold rings of the large off-centered seconds subdial, giving the entire watch a healthy dose of equilibrium. Like the rings, the hour, minute, and seconds hands have been fashioned out of 18k pink gold.
As rare as the meteorite itself, the limited collection is available in three variants. There is a pink gold case model that measures 39mm across, another variant decorated with diamonds, and a third model that measures 43mm in diameter and features a red gold case. Visible through the sapphire exhibition case back is the self-winding caliber JD 2663P that provides an impressive power reserve of 68 hours
10. Piaget Altiplano Automatic Meteorite Dial
Piaget is a brand that has firmly established itself as daring, creative, and bold, with an audacity of unmatched style. The Altiplano Meteorite watch follows Piaget’s tradition in offering this elegant timepiece in a sleek and discreet case that makes modern luxury appear easy.
The case, which is made of 18k pink gold, measures 40mm in diameter and has been thoroughly polished. The height of the watch is only 6.5mm, and this feat has been achieved by some complex technicalities, including a thin movement that stands at a mere 3mm.
Even though the caliber 1203P (visible through the sapphire case back) is very, very thin, it still provides an impressive power reserve of 44 hours and operates at 3Hz. The dial, which is a thin slice of meteorite, has undergone treatment with nitric acid to reveal the distinct Widmanstätten patterns, which appear as elongated iron crystals running parallel to each other in blocked sections.
Adorning the dial is the pink gold applied indexes and hands, which complement the 18k pink gold case and perfectly match the meteorite dial. Being that the timepiece is a sleek dress watch, every component has been well-proportioned.
The flat polished bezel, minimalistic crown, thin lugs, and even flat case band all accentuate the slim case giving the watch a personality on its own. It comes mounted on a gray alligator leather strap with an 18K pink gold pin buckle.
11. Louis Moinet Man on The Moon
Louis Moinet is famous for its utilization of meteorites and fossils, and other exotic materials in creating high-end timepieces. In addition to the brand’s expertise in astronomical indications, Moinet’s watch line exudes extravagance, with each distinct timepiece making a loud statement that travels beyond planet Earth. The Meteoris watch collection bridges the gap between terrestrial art and outer space.
Incorporated with a genuine fragment of a Lunar meteorite, the Louis Moinet Moon watch comes in a 43.2mm 316L stainless steel case that is somewhat complex. The case features a stepped bezel with the upper section firmly attached to the head of the main watch with the help of six screws.
A capsule has been positioned at 3 o’clock, and it is here that a fragment of the stunning lunar meteorite sits against the brass dial. The openwork dial was designed to mimic the moon’s surface, especially the lunar impact crater features such as Gassendi, located at the northern edge of Mare Humorum, Tycho, and Cassini.
The hours and minute hands exude a unique gracefulness and have the flamboyant Gouttes de Rosée (dewdrop) tip. The hour markers aggrandize the allure of the breathtaking dial and are somewhat suspended in mid-air.
The cutouts on the dial also reveal the movement, escapement, and offset hands. Delivering up to 48 hours of power reserve, the Calibre LM45 has been decorated with diamond-polished facets and circular-grained wheels. The timepiece is water resistant to a depth of 50 meters and is presented on a hand-sewn blue alligator leather strap with an alligator lining.
12. Zelos Mako 500M Diver Meteorite
Zelos is a microbrand known for its unique timepiece that often draws inspiration from the rarest of places. Recognized for using non-standard materials in its production process, Zelos has a catalog of impressive watches made out of titanium, bronze, and many prized ancient materials, including meteorite discs.
The Zelos Mako 500 Meteorite is one such innovative creation with an impressive water resistance rating of 500 meters. Measuring a comfortable 40mm diameter (46mm diameter lug to lug), the stainless steel case was built to suit different occasions and wrists.
The dial features a natural gray Widmanstatten Pattern and comes from a slice of the Muonionalusta meteorite. The textured dial features small circular hour markers filled with BGW9 lume. Applied triangles adjoin the hour markers at 12, 3, and 9 o’clock, while a white-on-black date display has replaced the 6 o’clock index.
The dial is uncluttered, clean, and legible with the applied Zelos logo above and the words “500m/1640 ft” and “Automatic” placed below in light blue. The hour and minute hands are slim-faceted swords in gold, while the second hand appears as a paddle with a light red tip.
Protecting the dial is a domed ‘box-shaped’ sapphire crystal that measures height to 15.4mm. On the other side, the brushed stainless steel case back features a raised illustration of a shark. It is driven by the Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic movement with 26 jewels and 38 hours of power reserve.
Conclusion
In the world of magnificence and grandeur, meteorite dial watches are known to leave a strong expression. Since crafting a dial out of a rock is a truly delicate task, they generally command high prices. This is understandable because of the brittle nature of the special matter and the fact that the dial must be cut to an incredibly thin slice which sometimes still has to undergo drilling for the hands, numerals, etc.
While some people may consider the use of meteorites in watchmaking absurd and bland, the compelling story that comes with each meteorite dial timepiece brings our existence in the universe into focus and reminds us of our place as humans.
Find more enchanting meteorite dial watches right here.
As I sit here in my home office wearing my Datejust 41 (ref. #126300), with the white dial, of course, I’m smiling to myself. You see, ever since I got into watches, I’ve always been drawn to the ones with white dials like my dog is to socks. While I haven’t quite pinpointed what it is about them, I know they look great, whether on my wrist or someone else’s.
Walk around your local downtown, grocery store, or mall, and us watch enthusiasts can spot a white dial watch from a mile away. Finding the right one can be a daunting task as there are endless options but don’t worry; we’ll discuss a few that I believe to be great.
What’s a White Dial Watch?
You probably just read the header to this section and thought, “AJ – a white dial watch is simply a watch with a white dial,” to which I would respond, “yes, but there’s more!” The dial (or face as it’s sometimes referred to) color can be very important for how the watch presents on the wrist, which I’ll touch on in a bit.
While the first introduction of these watches is open to debate, we can safely say that they can be traced back to at least the 1940s. Historically speaking, you’ll find white dials popular among dress watches, but that isn’t to say you can’t find them on sports, dive, or other types of watches.
Over the years, watchmakers such as Tudor, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have introduced models in white that have become icons. Speaking of Rolex, the Daytona (ref. #6239) has become one of the most famous watches over the years. Not too difficult, I believe, when the legendary actor and race car driver Paul Newman wore it.
To Buy or Not to Buy a White Dial Watch?
Yes, you should. Ok, I think we can move on now. I can’t make choices for you, but I’ll try to explain my fascination with these watches. You should know that I’m not a person who likes attention, but I like to zig while others zag.
Amongst a sea of black, blue, and silver dial watches, white tends to stand out a bit. I know 3 seconds ago I said I don’t like attention, but there is a certain degree of flashiness a white dial offers while not going over the top.
They’re also incredibly legible, and it’s nice to be able to quickly and easily read the time on our watches, right? Before purchasing any timepiece, it’s important to put it on your wrist, especially if you’re considering a white dial watch. You see, watches with this dial color tend to present larger than they actually are.
An example is the Rolex Explorer II. The watch comes in black and white. If you try both on or look at pictures, you’ll see that the white dial looks considerably larger than the black one, even though they’re the same size. At 42mm in diameter, it should be noted that dial color matters, especially if your wrist leans on the smaller side. Let’s discuss some other greats, shall we?
20 White Dial Watches that are Outstanding
1. Citizen Tsuyosa (ref. #NJ0150-81A)
Citizen is a great brand, so it’s no surprise they’re included. The Japanese watchmaker offers an excellent everyday watch with an automatic movement, the caliber 8210, with approx. 40 hours of power reserve. The case is 41mm in diameter and only 11.7mm thick, which are great proportions for a lot of wrist sizes.
What I love most about it is the price point, which is very accessible at under $500. The watch is also well proportioned with a running seconds hand beating at 21,600 vph (vibrations per hour) and a cyclops date window. The only text on the dial is “Citizen” at the top & “Automatic” at the bottom. Minimal text for the win! The bracelet offers high-polish center links and brushed outer links.
I think this contrast in polishing is wonderful and adds a mix of dressy and sporty. The clasp is fully brushed, so while it will scratch, it won’t show them as much as a high-polish clasp would. Citizen decided to offer an exhibition-style case back, meaning the wearer can see the movement while the watch is off their wrist. A nice touch that I personally wish more brands would offer with their watches.
Tissot has a reputation for excellence, and I love what they’re doing lately. The Tissot Gent XL Swissmatic, which I will now refer to as “The Gent” for short, comes in a 42mm case diameter, 12.3mm thick, and 22mm lug width. Lug width may not be a big deal to everyone, but for some, 20mm or 22mm size means lots of options for strap changes.
Speaking of straps, this one has the option of either leather, steel, or fabric. The case is made with 316L steel, a highly scratch-resistant and great metal. It has 100 meters of water resistance, so if you elect the steel bracelet or other waterproof straps, this one can easily be taken in the pool or ocean. Not sure I would dive too deep with it, so be weary if you’re into that sort of activity.
I’m fearful of the ocean, so you won’t find me going below a few feet anyways. What really blows me away is the movement. Tissot has a patented “Nivachoron” balance spring, a titanium-based alloy that is more resistant to magnetic fields. The cherry on top is The Gent’s 72-hour power reserve (chef’s kiss).
3. Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical (ref. #H69439411)
The hardest part of writing about watches is that I want every watch I write about. I know it’s a tough job, but someone’s gotta do it. I’m sure my fiance won’t mind if I just get one more, right? The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical is no exception.
Wow, what a watch! 38mm matte finished case, durable military green NATO strap, automatic movement, 20mm lug width, and 80-hour power reserve. Do I really need to say more?! I have yet to touch on lume, and this watch has Super-LumiNova, which means it’ll be bright and long-lasting.
If you’re unaware, lume is charged by the sun or other light sources and enables the wearer to wear the watch in low light or darkness because it offers a nice glow. Typically lume is applied on the hands and hour markers. A fun fact about the Hamilton Khaki is that it’s a recreation of the original 1960s version, and I think it does a great job of keeping that military-inspired look.
4. Victorinox Alliance (ref. #241871)
Somehow (don’t ask me how), Victorinox has pulled off a simple-looking watch that has a lot going on. That is if you allow yourself to look closer. The dial offers what they call three-dimensional, and it certainly gives that illusion with its stepped-down dial.
The company’s logo is at 12 o’clock, 9, and 3 are in Arabic numerals on the dial and a well-executed date window at 6 o’clock. That dial is mesmerizing with its grainy textured appearance. Again, we have a great size of 40mm and a lug width of 20mm, all held on with a black leather strap. I absolutely love the contrast between white dial watches and black leather straps.
The ticking happens with the ETA movement 2892, which can be viewed through the exhibition caseback. ETA movements, along with Sellita, are popular choices among big watch brands, extremely reliable, and easily serviceable. While the leather strap fancies this one up, the design of the dial brings it back to sporty, enabling this watch to be very versatile.
5. Seiko Presage (ref. #SARX055)
Only a matter of time before I mention this brand. Nicknamed the “Baby Grand Seiko Snowflake” due to its stunning textured dial, this Seiko is a real looker. First introduced to us in 2017, it offers a 40.8mm titanium case. You read that right—the first watch on the list to offer this type of metal.
If you’ve never experienced a titanium watch, they’re worth trying on and can be pretty surprising if you’re not expecting their lightness. Inside is the reliable 6R15 automatic movement with an accuracy rating of +25/-15 seconds per day.
Of course, it’s not the best timekeeping watch on the market, but it’s certainly fair given the sub $1,000 price point. What stands out most to me is the elegance of those sword-style hands and the splash of color we get with the blue seconds hand. It’s easy to get caught staring at this one. The watch leans more on the dressy side, but there’s no doubt it can be paired with a tee shirt and jeans.
I typically wear my watches with anything and don’t particularly like putting them in a specific corner. That being said, it’s tough not to look at this watch and think, “wow, what a classy-looking timepiece. That would look nice in a fancy restaurant.” For me, what puts this watch in the category of a dress watch is the calf leather, crocodile-style black strap. It also comes in stainless steel at 38mm in diameter and only 8.3mm thick. If you’re keeping track at home, that’s quite thin for an automatic movement, which in this case is the caliber L888 (a Longines exclusive) conditioned to go 72 hours on a full wind.
It has some water resistance but just enough to get a few splashes on while washing your hands. The dial is clean, with the only text besides Longines being the word “Automatic” in all caps at the bottom. Longines offers excellent watches with a rich history. My grandfather owns a gold Longines watch from the 1960s, so the brand certainly has a special place in my heart.
7. Oris Divers Sixty Five “Social Club Edition” (ref. #01 733 7707 4051 OSC-MIL-Set)
Our first dive watch! And it’s not just any dive watch; it’s the Oris Divers Sixty Five inspired by the iconic model from 1965. While there are many variations from the Swiss brand, this one is the “Social Club Edition” and is unique because a portion of the purchase goes back towards your community.
Now, I’ve always been a sucker for black/white watch combos, and this one is no exception. There’s just something about that white dial with the circular indices and the black bezel. It just pops so well. Divers can get chunky, but luckily, this one is only 40mm in diameter and relatively thin.
It’s got everything you’d want in a watch under $3,000: screw-down crown, automatic movement (Sellita SW 200-1), 100 meters of water resistance, excellent brand, and comes with a black leather strap. Just be sure to swap it for something that will handle water a bit better before jumping into the pool. What I love most about this beauty is the ability to dress it up or down, as it works in all situations.
8. Tudor 1926 (ref. #M91550-0005)
When I first look at this watch, a couple of thoughts immediately come to mind. First, the blue against the white dial is perfect. It had the danger of being too striking, but Tudor did a fantastic job of toning it down with that amazing textured dial.
And second? It’s dressy in nature when you consider the 7-row steel bracelet, but then it has that mix of arrow/numeral indices and “Self-winding” text that appears to smile up at the wearer. The watch is going to fit a lot of wrists with a steel case of 39mm. It’s a time and date watch powered by the caliber T601 movement, with a power reserve of approximately 38 hours.
This piece also comes in a variety of sizes ranging from 28mm to 41mm and can be paired with various straps from Tudor. If you didn’t know, Tudor is a sister company to Rolex. They make many incredible watches, and what I love is that you get that Rolex quality but at a more affordable price. By the way, the watch is called 1926 because that’s the year Tudor was founded by Hans Wilsdorf.
9. Nomos Tangente (ref. #101)
Can we take a quick moment to thank Nomos for that easy-to-remember and, most importantly, short reference number? Other companies can learn from Nomos’ ways (looking at you, Omega). The first German watch to be discussed today, the Tangente’s unique design makes this a winner to me.
Dimensions are great: 35mm case diameter, 6.2mm thick, and only 45mm lug-to-lug. A quick note: the lug-to-lug measurement is important when discussing the wearability of a watch because a large size here can make the timepiece hang off either side of your wrist. In other words, it’s the length from the bottom of the lug to the top.
It’s powered by the caliber “alpha manual,” an in-house movement that is manual wind. This means that the wearer will need to wind the watch once every two days, according to Nomos. It has a small running seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position and the only text being “Nomos Glashutte” at 12 o’clock. It stays on the wrist with the help of a Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan black strap. Bravo Nomos, and please keep them coming.
10. Cartier Tank Must Watch Large (ref. #WSTA0041)
I must confess something. I’ve been into watches for years, but until recently, I didn’t pay much attention to Cartier as a watch brand. That’s a mistake I’ll have to live with forever, but luckily, I’m on board now. The Cartier Tank Must Watch Large is beautiful, coming in steel with a case dimension of 33.7mm by 25.5mm and 6.6mm thick.
This model contains a high-autonomy quartz movement, although there are other options. The other quartz movement is the “small” version and has dimensions of 29.5mm by 22mm and 6.6mm thick. Lastly, there is an automatic option called the extra-large model. It has a case size of 41mm by 31mm and a thickness of 8.4mm, all while being the only option with a date function.
The Tank Must watch comes on an interchangeable black-grained calfskin strap. When I look at the watch, my eyes immediately fixate on those blue hands and how they perfectly align with the second, minute, and hour markers. These fine details in watchmaking make me absolutely adore this wonderful work of art.
As a watch geek, I can get caught up in the nerdy technical specifications of a watch in an instant. So when I see that this watch, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic, is COSC certified, it grabs my attention. A COSC certification is only for Swiss-made watches, and means that the watch has been tested and passed a certain level of accuracy and precision. In other words, it’s going to keep great time.
Baume & Mercier has been making incredible timepieces for a while now, since 1830, to be exact. Not only does the Clifton Baumatic look awesome, with its perfectly proportioned dial, but it has 5 days of power reserve!
The movement beats at 28,800 vph and is protected by a 40mm steel case at only 11.3mm thick. It also comes on a black alligator strap and has an exhibition caseback, allowing the movement to be visible. The minute/second numbers on the edge of the dial make it just a smidge casual and easier to wear with almost anything.
12. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra (ref. #220.10.41.21.02.001)
Look, as a collector, there is no such thing as a one-and-done watch. My wallet doesn’t love me for saying that. That being said, if there was such a timepiece, this is the watch you’re looking for (to quote the great Obi-Wan Kenobi). The Aqua Terra lineup from Omega is superb, and this particular model comes with a stunning white dial. The lovely, horizontal lines across it sort of resemble wood planks across a wall.
The arrow indices pop, and the color contrast between the hands and the dial makes seeing the time extremely easy. We also get a few hints of color, which I love, with orange splashes on the seconds hand, every 15-minute mark along the outside, and the iconic “Seamaster” text. It comes in a 41mm diameter steel case that’s 13.2mm thick and has a water resistance of 150 meters.
The movement is a co-axial, anti-magnetic one from Omega, the caliber 8900, and has 60 hours of power reserve and is resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. If that weren’t enough for you, it’s also METAS certified as a Master Chronometer, meaning it has undergone extensive testing. It’s the highest certification a Swiss watch can achieve, so yeah, it’s a fantastic watch.
13. Grand Seiko SBGA289
Finding a watchmaker who makes a better dial than Grand Seiko would be difficult. Their finishing ain’t half bad, either. The SBGA289 has a 39mm case size, is 12.5mm thick, and comes in white gold. It’s simply breathtaking when you see it.
The dial is textured, with a sword-style handset and a blue seconds hand. The movement is the 9R15, a spring dive with a power reserve of up to 72 hours and an accuracy of +/- 10 seconds per month. That’s right, per month! I nerd out with mechanical movements, but when you watch a spring drive tick, it’s mesmerizing how it sweeps across the dial.
The dial also includes a power reserve indicator, so you never have to wonder how much power your watch has left. It comes on a black crocodile strap, which is a color combination I never tire of. It’s been stated by many that no one in the watch industry works harder for your money than Grand Seiko, and I can’t help but agree with that statement.
14. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. #5015-1127-52A)
Blancpain markets this watch, which is a part of a larger collection, as the “first modern diver’s watch.” In recent years, vintage-inspired dive watches have largely taken over watch enthusiasts’ Instagram feeds, but with a quick look at this Blancpain, one can spot a fresh look immediately.
The case size is a bit larger than the previous pieces we’ve encountered here. A 45mm steel case diameter at a thickness of 15.4mm is no small watch, but everything is wonderfully proportioned. The unidirectional rotating bezel is a glossy white with a silver 60-minute indicator. The quite impressive power reserve of 120 hours is due to Blancpain’s caliber 1315 movement.
With a water resistance of 300 meters, this watch should be suitable for recreational divers, and it even comes with a fabric strap. This, to me, is one of those watches that would look awesome on various colored straps to break up the tone of it with a splash of color. Do that, and you got yourself one heck of a watch.
Details, details, details! The 40mm 18K white gold case, sapphire crystal, “Grand Feu” enamel dial, Arabic Breguet numerals, blued steel hands, and that offset small seconds hand tucked in nicely between the 5 and 6. This watch is pure class and is wrapped up beautifully with a black leather strap.
The piece is powered by the automatic caliber 502.3 SD with a 45-hour power reserve. The small details are, in my opinion, what set this watch apart from the rest.
The only text on the dial is “Breguet” in the iconic font, along with the words “Swiss Emaille Grand Feu” in small text that wraps around the bottom from the 8 to the 7. The minute indicators are quite pleasing to look at as well. Along with the 18k white gold version, this watch also comes in rose gold as another white dial option.
If you’ve been even a little bit into watches, then you’ve likely heard of Omega. That means you’re probably aware of their most famous watch, the Speedmaster. This iconic lineup of watches has a wide array of options, but if you’re looking to go against the norm, the “White Side of the Moon” is a good place to start.
The case is 44.25mm in diameter and machined from a single ceramic block. Since it is made out of this material, it will be highly resistant to scratches. It features 50 meters of water resistance, so while I wouldn’t recommend swimming around, it certainly can get caught in the rain and be just fine.
The sapphire crystal has anti-reflective treatment on both sides, making it very easy to see the time even as the light reflects off it. Omega’s co-axial caliber 9300 powers this timepiece, and its automatic movement has 60 hours of power reserve. When it comes to iconic chronographs, one would be hard-pressed to beat out the Speedmaster.
17. A. Lange and Söhne Lange 1 (ref. #110.029)
Certain brands are known to many, even if you’re not much of a watch person. Other brands, such as A. Lange and Söhne, may not be as recognizable to non-watch folks but do not make any mistake about it: they pack quite a punch.
This watch, in particular, the Lange 1, immediately requires a double take upon first viewing. The case is 18k white gold and measures 38.5mm in diameter and 10mm thick. The ticking comes from the caliber L901.4, which includes the patented big date at 2 o’clock and an impressive 72-hour power reserve.
Since it’s a manual wind watch, the exhibition caseback allows us to see that incredibly finished movement without the rotor covering it up. I know I’ve stated my love for the white dial/black strap combo, but this one works so well with that dark brown alligator strap. This watch proves you don’t need dial symmetry to have an excellent timepiece.
Tough to mention Audemars Piguet, or AP, without immediately thinking of the Royal Oak. How can I blame you? But AP makes other incredible watches, too, including this Code 11.59. The dial is “white lacquered” and surrounded by an 18K pink gold case. An interesting tidbit about this watch is the sapphire crystal.
It’s actually double-curved and gives off a unique perspective to the wearer in terms of depth as it moves around. The real estate taken up on the wrist is 41mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick. While there are other strap options, selling me on anything other than the hand-stitched brown alligator strap with the 18k pink gold pin buckle it comes on would be tough.
Finally, the caseback. You know, I have a love/hate relationship with beautiful exhibition casebacks. Obviously, I love looking at a well-finished movement, and well, it’s AP, so you know it’s going to be spectacular. What’s difficult is that it would always be on my wrist, which makes seeing the movement a challenge.
19. Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. #5116G)
This is THE dress watch. All right, everyone, dust off your hands, and let’s go home. Ok, I may be slightly kidding, but this watch is it. The case is 36mm in 18k white gold and is manual wind (caliber 215 PS), time only. It features a double Hobnail bezel and comes on a black alligator strap.
The Roman numeral style handset ties in so well with that small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. The exhibition caseback displays a beautiful-looking movement, which is finished to perfection. One would expect nothing less from one of the finest companies in the history of watchmaking.
20. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony (ref. #81180/000G-9117)
Remember when I said that the Patek Philippe Calatrava was THE dress watch like 5 seconds ago? This is the problem (beauty?) with watchmaking: there are so many amazing options out there. Honestly, I would feel like the luckiest watch collector in the world with either of these. Inspired by the watches of the 1950s, this VC Patrimony comes in a white 18k gold 40mm case.
The dial is simple, with only hour and minute markers sweeping across the “Vacheron Constantin Geneve” text. The strap is black alligator called “Mississippiensis.” The movement is manual wind, the caliber 1400, and has a power reserve of 40 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph and is stamped with the “Hallmark of Geneva” certification. Not many certainties in life, but I can say for sure that this watch is timeless.
Conclusion
As a multi-white dial watch owner, I can admit my biases in this discussion. Earlier, I talked about how when you walk through your local grocery store, mall, and restaurant, you’ll see an abundance of blue, silver, and black dial watches.
Do not mistake my intention here because there is nothing wrong with that. But if you’re in the market for something less common, go try on a watch with a white dial. The best part? As you’ve just seen, there’s something for everyone.
No matter your stance on watches as “investments”, or a new alternative “asset class”, it can’t be denied that the secondary market values of these objects traditionally worn on the wrist have jumped in recent years.
Indeed, when Aurel Bacs hit the proverbial hammer on October 26, 2017, at the Phillips auction house in New York with the record-setting $17.8-million dollar sale of the “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona, a new era of watch collecting was ushered in.
To be clear, particularly rare vintage watches have commanded high secondary market prices on the auction block for years. But, with the advent of new technologies such as social media and popular internet blogs, the attention on the watch space has never been greater, impacting the scene from vintage all the way down to modern, new watches as well.
And while not every watch will garner the attention and multi-million dollar valuation of the “Paul Newman” Daytona, it’s clear that collectors are now acutely aware of the residual values when purchasing a watch.
Oftentimes, it may be the deciding factor when deciding to buy or not. Whether secondary market values are the lowest rung on your ladder of watch purchase decision-making or the top factor in building your watch “portfolio”, let’s explore the idea further.
Why Do People Invest in Watches?
Beanie Babies, baseball cards, comic books, and more. No matter the hobby, collectors will always seek to differentiate themselves from their peers by seeking out the rarest or most special items. If you’re looking for an error-tag Snort/Tabasco Beanie Baby, look no further than my childhood closet. And with rarity comes value (the old “supply and demand” adage); It’s no different in the watch hobby.
But when spending upwards of thousands of dollars on a single item, it’s arguably more responsible to understand both the inherent value (the “why” of a particular watch; what draws you to it, what sparks your joy, why to hold on to it), and the secondary market value (if you had to sell it, how much would it go for, does it lose, gain or hold its value, how fast would it sell, would anyone even want to buy).
And when we’re talking thousands of dollars, to even hundreds of thousands and millions, we enter into the realm of true asset classes. Indeed, watches have become a way to diversify and spread wealth, similar to how automobiles and fine art have in recent decades. On the one hand, we have profit-seeking, and on the other, the mere comfort of knowing your money is generally “safe”.
How to Choose the Best Investment Watches?
None of us have a crystal ball. And we certainly can’t predict the future or offer any financial advice to propose what is or will be, the next big watch hit in which you can safely place your money. But we can make our best-educated guess based on historical market trends and the factors that led to high valuations of specific watches to better understand where we may see these patterns again in the future. So what makes a good investment watch? Consider the following factors:
Rarity. We’ve said it before, and it bears worth repeating. Low supply generally yields high demand. The rarer a watch may be, whether from low production numbers, limited edition makeups, age, and so on, the higher the secondary market price may go. In a hobby as personal as watches (these are goods of self-expression, after all), collectors will continue to seek ways to differentiate themselves from the masses. The more different or expressive a watch can be, the more they’re willing to pay.
Condition. And yet, not all watches are the same, even if they are within the same make. We have to factor in the condition of a timepiece when determining its value, and the better a watch’s relative condition is, the higher its price can command. For example, a vintage 1680 Rolex “Red” Submariner with a cracked crystal should generally be less valuable than the same 1680 Red Sub with its crystal intact.
Authenticity. Hand in hand with the condition is authenticity. Is the watch true to its original makeup when it left the factory? Are there any replacement parts, and have the replacements been disclosed to the public? Has the watch been serviced, and does it include official documentation or papers from the manufacturer and all original accouterments (good old “box and papers”)? All factors here will impact the added value.
Heritage. Does the watch come from a particularly popular brand or has a storied history with documented use in research, development, and beyond? (Insert your favorite Moonwatch story here).
X-Factor. The hardest to determine, and oftentimes overlapping with rarity and condition, is the “X-Factor”. This can be thought of as something that makes a watch particularly special outside the normal attributes. Think “Khanjar” or Tiffany stamped dial Rolex or your favorite celebrity wearing a timepiece courtside. Indeed, the “Paul Newman” Daytona wouldn’t have reached its record-breaking heights without relation to the actor. Even the Domino’s Pizza Rolex Air King is seeing its heyday.
Which Are the Best Watch Brands to Invest In?
The easy answer: Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and popular independents such as F.P. Journe and Akrivia.
The vaguer answer: Watches of good investment value can be found across the full spectrum, from Swatch and Seiko to the upper echelons of masters like Philippe Dufour and Roger W. Smith, model dependent.
The truth: Any brand worth investing in will have some mix of the factors listed above, namely rarity, condition, heritage, and some shade of “X-Factor”.
These brands will be harder to get (ex: the Rolex “waitlist”), have documented histories of greatness or contributions to the watch craft and industry, and will find their own organic popularity through the movers and shakers of the hobby, ultimately garnering more interest from the community at large (ie, more demand).
The 20 Best Investment Watches of 2023 (for your consideration):
As a premier flagship steel sports Rolex model, arguably any iteration of the Rolex GMT Master can be considered an investment piece due to the iconic status the watch holds in Rolex’s lineup and pop culture. However, particularly in the 16710 produced from 1989 through 2007, we see an “end of an era” in true tool watch form before Rolex makes the switch to upgraded materials decidedly more luxury leaning such as a ceramic bezel, updated bracelet and maxi dial and case size.
Available with the iconic red and blue “Pepsi” bezel insert, the black and red “Coke” insert, or the all-black bezel variation, the 16710 is heralded by collectors for its iconic looks and tool watch practicality. And with its 40mm case diameter, 12.4mm thickness, 47.5mm lug-to-lug, and 20mm lug width, we have classic case size proportions suitable for various wrists for those who find the modern variant a bit too large.
Of note, a collector will find a few iterations within the 16710 model line: the “SWISS T25” dial with tritium hour markers and hands pre-1999; the transitional “Swiss Only” dial dated to 1999, and the “SWISS MADE” dial featuring SuperLuminova hour markers and hands from 2000 onwards.
Another darling of the watch-collecting zeitgeist (perhaps THE darling), the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, discontinued in 2021, is perhaps a surefire addition to any watch investment portfolio. Originally debuting in 2006 with several references among its ilk in steel, gold, platinum, and gem set beauties over the years, the 5711 was not actually all that popular upon its initial release.
With its 40mm diameter case, svelte 8.3mm thickness, and that iconic Gerald Genta case design (call them “ears”, and you’ll never unsee it again), the stellar casework and finishing combined with a top-of-the-line comfort on the wrist meant that what was once under the radar and eclipsed by its kin such as the reference 5712, would soon see eventual success with the more recent craze of steel sports integrated bracelet watches (which I dub the “Genta Wave”).
Another case of an overlooked watch becoming a hit under all the right conditions: The brand heritage of Patek, the storytelling X-Factor of Genta design, and the rarity of steel sports Patek watches all almost guaranteed the success of the 5711 which would eventually see auction results more than six times its MSRP.
Quick exercise: Picture a watch in your head. Any watch. What did you see? Chances are, you saw a dive watch with a black rotating bezel, a black dial with white hands and indices on the archetypal oyster bracelet. Its name? The Rolex Submariner.
Originally launched in 1953, the Rolex Submariner and its Date counterpart (there is truly only the “Submariner” and “Submariner Date” in official Rolex terms) are definitive icons not only in the watch community but in the broader world community as well. If Rolex is the most famous luxury watch brand, the Submariner is, by default, its most iconic watch.
And you don’t have to take (pre-Brosnan era) James Bond’s word for it, or everyone who decided to mark a milestone in their lives by purchasing a Submariner in the decades since. Among its evolutionary line, the 114060 is a particularly interesting watch from an investment standpoint. Being the last of the 40mm case size Submariners (replaced by the 41mm 124060 in 2020), the 114060 actually came out a year after its date steel counterpart (116610LN).
With a shorter run than the 116610LN and its relatively smaller overall production numbers (with the Date version eclipsing the Submariner with an estimated 2:1 ratio), the 114060 occupies a unique slot within the Submariner lineup as a safe investment given the overall popularity of the Submariner line, and the relative rarity the 114060 presents within it.
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 “Jumbo”
An icon, and one of the most popular watches on the planet, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202 “Jumbo” was discontinued in 2021. Discontinue any watch of the 15202’s iconic stature and status, and you’ll almost always find a safe placeholder in your watch collection.
After all, if an uber-popular watch isn’t being made anymore and fewer and fewer can be found, rarity and price sensitivity ensue. Acting as a clear call back to the original steel Royal Oak as designed by Gerald Genta, the contemporary 15202 was announced in 2012 as part of the 40th anniversary of the Royal Oak.
In the years since, we’ve seen various stunning interpretations of the 15202 in White Gold (15202BC), Titanium and Platinum (15202IP), and even full Yellow Gold (15202BA). But, it’s arguably the original steel reference (15202ST) that is the definitive luxury sports watch.
After all, the Royal Oak is the original luxury sports watch. With a 39mm size case, 8.1mm thickness, powered by the calibre 2121, and finished to perfection, anyone lucky enough to have the 15202 on their wrist has already made it; investment potential be damned.
5. Omega Speedmaster First Omega In Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)
When speaking of brand icons, the Omega Speedmaster is a genuine archetype. Nearly synonymous with the achievements of NASA in the space age for watch geeks, it was the Speedmaster CK2998 worn on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra (his own, purchased privately) that holds the title of the first Omega watch in space, dating back to October 3rd, 1962 on the Mercury-Atlas 8 mission.
It was in commemoration of Schirra’s achievement (orbiting the Earth six times onboard the Sigma 7 spacecraft) that Omega decided to launch the 60th-anniversary reference to the original in the “First Omega In Space” Speedmaster (FOIS) in 2012.
Now discontinued in 2020, the FOIS took inspiration from the original CK2998 with its 39.7mm diameter case size and symmetrical straight lugs (as opposed to the now emblematic twisted lugs of the “Professional” Speedmaster) worn on a leather strap, anticipating an era of vintage leaning aesthetics in a contemporary watch design that continues to this day.
From an investment standpoint, we have here in the FOIS a variant of an all-out watch archetype with a limited eight-year production run (an estimated 15,000-16,000 made based on numbered edition marked watches listed on the secondary market), with a vintage fit and appeal no longer available in the Speedmaster line.
6. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5968G-010
The heavy hitters continue. It was John Mayer who once described the Patek Philippe Aquanaut as “the Chuck Taylor version of Patek Philippe”. If you can afford one, or even afford the opportunity to buy one, count yourself among the lucky. For when even a watch’s composite rubber strap is highly collectible, you know the timepiece it’s attached to is even more special.
Often thought of as the more affordable alternative to the Nautilus and supposedly geared towards a younger demographic, aside from the flex and literal buy-in required to purchase the watch, at its core, Mayer’s assertion is correct.
Available in Khaki Green (Electric Blue and Bright Orange variants exist, among others), with a modern 42.2mm diameter and 11.9mm thickness, the grenade-like dial and vibrance of the Aquanaut imbue the wearer with the ultimate sense of high-low in watch wear.
The best of old-world watchmaking and finishing with the Patek name and brand values (cue in the precious metal white gold case material), with the modern and punchy design to take a kicking and keep on ticking. These characteristics make the Aquanaut a highly in-demand model to this day.
7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (ref. 26470OR.OO.1000OR.01)
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph (26470OR) was first introduced in 2014. Featuring a pink gold case, bracelet, and dial, encased in a 42mm diameter and 14.6mm thickness water resistant to 100m, the Offshore Chronograph is an unabashed luxury sports watch.
With the Offshore line being traditionally a testing ground for Audemars Piguet in materials, limited edition models, and endorsements, this particularly robust (read “massive”) Offshore is a thick chunk of pink rose gold material, accentuated with an integrated bracelet recalling the original Royal Oak beauty of yore, while coupled with ceramic crown surrounds and chronograph pushers, a remarkably modern addition, along with a sapphire display case back.
AP is truly at the top of the game with their level of finishing and refinement, and it’s no wonder that the dichotomy of the Offshore’s seemingly uncharacteristic bold and rough sportiness coupled with a sense of ultra sophistication has created one of the more popular watches for collectors of the brand to date. In terms of investment, sometimes you need to spend money to make money, and the Offshore is indeed one fun way to do it.
8. Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500V Brown Dial
At Vacheron Constantin’s 2016 showing at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the third generation of the Overseas (4500V) was released to much fanfare. In blue and silver dial variations, the updates over the previous generation Overseas models (all the way back to 1996) showed us that the Overseas was a line that again deserved to be in the conversation alongside outside brand rivals in the Royal Oak and Nautilus integrated bracelet, steel sports range.
Featuring a 41mm stainless steel case in tonneau style, the 4500V is 11mm thick and water resistant to 150 meters. The movement is protected against magnetic fields up to 25,000 A/m with its soft iron casing ring and is available on a steel bracelet, rubber, or leather strap.
And while the blue and silver dial variants are drool-worthy in their own right with their refinement and build quality, it was the brown dial 4500V/110A-B146 variant released in May 2016, a few months after SIHH, that’s a particularly good investment for the discerning collector as it was discontinued only one year later.
Again, we fall back to rarity and X-Factor; A holy trinity grade watch, representative of a steel sports/integrated bracelet line, limited to a one-year production, with arguably the loveliest shade of brown on a luxury watch yet (Seriously; Why aren’t there more?).
9. Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (ref. 116500LN)
No surprises here; The Rolex “Panda” Daytona (116500LN) makes the list. With a history going as far back as 1963, the first Cosmograph chronograph was decidedly not a hit. Despite its associations with the Daytona Speedway 24-Hour endurance race (of which Rolex became the official timekeeper for in the 60s), it was a watch famously sold off at a heavy discount and often coupled with the purchase of full gold Datejusts in the 70s and 80s (anecdotal, but you catch my drift) which were the best sellers at the time.
In other words, it was the unwanted outcast of the bunch. But where unpopularity ends, rarity and scarcity take hold. Throw in the celebrity factor (insert Paul Newman), and keen heads began to take note. Ultimately, we know the modern ceramic Daytona as one of the most unattainable watches at retail in current times, with supposed waitlists in the double-digit years.
And yet, regardless of the hype and phenomenon that accompanies the Daytona legend, we have a watch that at its core has evolved on a technical level with the calibre 4130 (quiet progress; Rolex’s way) in a 904L Oystersteel case and bracelet, measuring 40mm in diameter (officially; on the wrist, it’s closer to a 39mm) and 12.2mm thick. All of which to say, a watch that wears perfectly. Whether you purchase it for the hype or investment purposes or to simply enjoy it on your wrist, you won’t find disappointment here.
Timeline: the early 1970’s. NASA is considering exploration of the dark side of the moon; Omega develops an outer case for the Speedmaster watch to help withstand the harsh and extreme temperatures of Outer Space. Its name: “Alaska Project”. Fast forward to 2008, when Omega decides to release a limited and numbered edition of the “Alaska Project’ to the public, in 1970 pieces available world wide in commemoration of its historic exploits.
With it’s stark white dial, contrasted against the now iconic sub dial “Apollo Hands”, the Alaska Project Speedmaster is an otherwise standard Speedmaster Professional case and calibre 1861 movement that also features a large red-anodized aluminum outer case (57mm diameter x 23mm thick) which when coupled to the watch, enables it to withstand temperatures between -148 degrees celsius, to +250 degrees celsius. It’s big, it’s bold, and it’s rare.
11. Rolex Daytona “John Mayer”
The second Daytona on our list, everything we said prior still rings true for the “John Mayer”, reference 116508. In fact, the “John Mayer” name came only from its association with the famous singer-songwriter after he revealed the watch as part of his collection.
He regarded it as an obvious hit that was being overlooked, and just like that, the solid yellow gold watch with its stunning Rolex green dial became an overnight sensation. Consequent rumors of its eventual discontinuation year after year since have only added to increased speculative values. John was right; this one’s a hit.
Omega’s ties to the James Bond cinematic empire date back to the Pierce Brosnan era of the 1990s. With the traditional wave dial Bond Seamaster now being an icon in its own right, we propose looking at what could be that model’s antithesis; The straight lug, broad arrow Seamaster 300 Spectre edition based on the CK2913 of the late 1950s.
The Spectre is an attractive watch that leans into the design cues and aesthetics of the 50s and 60s, coupled with the modern innovations of Omega technology such as the Co-Axial and calibre 8400 movement. In total, 7007 pieces were made.
13. Richard Mille RM055 “Bubba Watson”
Bubba Watson, the famous American professional golf player, has partnered with Richard Mille since 2011. Though many models have been built for Watson (for example: the RM038, a direct inspiration for the RM055), the RM055, in particular, is a highly technical and innovative sports watch hand-finished to high watchmaking tradition standards.
Richard Mille, renowned for their unique case and baseplate materials and research, combines rubber, titanium, carbon fiber, sapphire, and ceramic in a highly skeletonized tonneau case with the “Bubba Watson”. Built to handle extreme sports and high impact, truly any Richard Mille watch is an investment in both price to acquire and expressive (yet functional) design.
14. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R
A 45-hour power reserve, fly-back sports chronograph in 18k rose gold, the 5980/1R simply oozes class with its 40.5 mm diameter x 12.2mm thick case, all the while water resistant up to 120 meters. With a 21k gold central rotor powering its manufacture CH 28-520 C movement, what truly sets the 5980/1R apart is its solid rose gold bracelet (and that finishing), formerly available in rose gold only on a leather strap before 2013. This is a bold watch for the boldest of collectors only, and at over 253 grams unsized, it’s a true investment piece that could be the center of any watch portfolio (if not said portfolio’s center of gravity).
15. Richard Mille RM27-04 “Rafael Nadal”
Surely, any watch with a million-dollar price tag should be considered an “investment”. But what makes the RM27-04 “Rafael Nadal” special? Why the price tag? Limited to 50 pieces, we have a watch with a suspended tourbillon and movement within a micro-blasted, stainless steel mesh joined to two PVD-treated gold tensioners.
Anchored at the 1 and 5 o’clock positions, its forward-thinking design allows the watch to withstand upwards of 12,000 G’s, which sure sounds a heck of a lot more than anything Nadal (or you and I, for that matter) could swing a tennis racket at.
16. IWC Ingenieur SL “Jumbo” Ref. 1832
Stainless steel sports watch: Check. Integrated bracelet: Check. Actual honest Gerald Genta (not derived) design: Checkmate. While we often think of the Royal Oak and Nautilus as the two main pillars of Genta design, for true nerds, the Ingenieur is right up there as the third pillar in the designer’s achievements (you weren’t thinking of his Mickey Mouse watches, were you?).
A 40mm tonneau-shaped case, 12.5mm thickness, with a five-drilled hole round bezel and graph paper like guilloché, we have all the hallmarks of a Genta classic, and as an investment piece, you could do much worse.
17. Tudor Submariner 7928
Originally conceived by Rolex founder, Hans Wilsdorf, to be the affordable alternative to the Rolex brand, Tudor watches have earned their place in history as much more than just the “little sibling to big brother”. With ties to historic expeditions of their own to partnerships with militaries the world over, vintage Tudor watches, in particular, have seen a massive spike in interest in recent years as collectors become outpriced or disinterested in the evergreen Rolex model equivalents.
Introduced in 1959, the Tudor Submariner, reference 7928 in particular, saw production for nearly 10 years. It had two notable firsts: the introduction of crown guards and a larger case size (up from 37mm of the reference 7924 prior to 39mm in the 7928). Over its ten-year production span, upwards of at least six documented variants were produced. However, the MK1 “square crown guards” variant is among the rarest, with only an estimated 100 known in existence.
18. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Infinity Edition
Continuing the theme of steel sports, integrated bracelet watches dominating the collectors market, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42 Infinity Edition was released in limited production (188 units) in partnership with watch retailer Wempe, sold exclusively through Wempe locations in London, Germany, and New York after its debut in 2020.
As the name implies, the watch is 42mm in diameter, matched with a thickness of only 10.7mm, featuring an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and display caseback whilst providing 100m of water resistance and 54 hours of power reserve. But perhaps the true star of the show is that black onyx dial contrasted with pink gold markers. To infinity and beyond.
19. F.P. Journe Elegante 48
Independent darling brand (and living watchmaker) F.P. Journe has seen a meteoric rise in the watch-collecting market in the past decade. With its unique and unrivaled sense of design and innovation respecting the tradition of watchmaking, it was no coincidence, given the level of watchmaking and scarcity of its product.
Among such achievements, in the Elegante 48, we see the Calibre 1210, 8 years in development. A largely hand-finished quartz movement that can put itself to sleep after 35 minutes of inactivity, a microprocessor then remembers the time so that when reactivated from physical movement, the hands jump back to the correct time.
Impressively, with regular use, the battery can provide upwards of 8-10 years of life, whereas its theoretical maximum is an unthinkable 18 years of life if left in a dormant state. Embrace the quartz revolution with the Journe Elegante 48.
20. Tudor Prince Day Date
Debuting in 1952, the Tudor Prince line was the foundation of Tudor watches, occupying the space equivalent to the Datejust and Day-Dates of the Rolex world. Classically styled, the Prince Day Date, in particular, features an oyster style case with a jubilee bracelet and the unmistakable day wheel at 12 o’clock, with a traditional style date and date magnifier at 3 o’clock a la the Rolex “President”.
Though now discontinued, the 76200 reference available since the 1990s can still be found in good condition as an alternative daily wearer to more expensive options from Rolex and even the current Tudor catalog. As collectors look back to uncover neo-vintage gems from the 1990s and early 2000s, Tudor’s brand popularity today almost guarantees that models like the Prince Day Date won’t be overlooked for much longer.
Conclusion
“Investment” has become almost a dirty word in the watch hobby. But the factors that make a good investment watch are also the things that make a watch worth collecting: Rarity, personality, differentiation, and time-proven design.
Furthermore, understanding investment value and thinking of watches as an asset doesn’t need to negate the joy we get from owning them. It’s merely one part of the spectrum in our collective watch journeys and ultimately helps us understand our tastes and preferences in a new light.
