Category: Omega

Omega is a Goliath in the world of precision watchmaking. The brand’s pioneering spirit has made it one of the most loved and historically significant brands. The journey Omega has taken to simply tell the time accurately cannot be compared to any other; they are true innovators with a large and meaningful collection.

History of Omega Watches

A pursuit of accuracy and precision, founded by Louis Brandt as La Generale Watch Co in 1848 in a family-owned villa located in the small Swiss village La Chaux, the company we now know as Omega was only ever dubbed Omega after its second generation of family watchmakers took over in 1879. The Brant Brothers, in 1894, revolutionized watchmaking with the launch of the 19-Linge Calibre, an extremely accurate movement that could be serviced easily by any watchmaker. 

Bringing us groundbreaking technology by combining the winding and setting of the time via the stem and crown, the Brant Brothers crowned this achievement “Omega”, a name they deemed to signify ultimate accomplishment. Through this movement’s huge success and provenance, the company was later renamed Omega Watches and Co and shortened by 1903 to Omega.

Timekeeper of the Olympic Games

In 1931, Omega set precision records in all 6 trials at the Geneva Observatory. Its commitment to record-breaking precision caught the attention of the Olympic committee, so since 1932 Omega has been the Official Timekeeper of 30 Olympic games.

Military Heritage

Between 1940 and 1945, Omega delivered over 110,000 timepieces to the British MOD, trusted for their water resistance, shock resistance, and anti-magnetism. In 1948, to celebrate 100 years of Omega, we were introduced to the first Seamster model to commemorate their military history in making reliable water-resistant tool watches that were increasingly in demand from the consumer market.

First Constellation

By 1952 Omega launched the Constellation, named after the medallion engraved on its case back, displaying the Geneva Observatory surrounded by 8 stars, paying homage to Omega’s 8 record-breaking exploits in chronometric precision. This model was later followed by the Deville and the Ladymatic, expanding on their line of dressier offerings.

1957 Trilogy

In 1957, Omega expanded its collection with a trio of professional watches, each positioned to conquer its domain. The Seamaster 300 for diving deeper, the Railmaster for supreme anti-magnetism (being able to withstand an industry first of 1000 gauss), and the Speedmaster with the now legendary Lemania-based Calibre-321 chronograph movement for racing.

The Moonwatch

In the early 1960s, NASA launched the Apollo Project; they also set out to find a watch capable of withstanding the elements of space exploration, testing them to the point of destruction. Omega, Rolex, Longines, and Hamilton each submitted a watch.

But Omega’s Speedmaster was the only one that survived and was certified by NASA for all manned space missions and extravehicular activity in 1965. It is still today the only watch with such an achievement. 

The Speedmaster Professional would become the first watch worn on the moon in 1969 during the Apollo 11 mission, forever dubbed “the Moonwatch”. In 1970 during the Apollo 13 mission, a stranded crew equipped with Speedmasters were able to successfully time a manual 14-second engine burn to correctly align their damaged spacecraft into the earth’s atmosphere and bring them back home safely. 

To show Omega gratitude for its contributions to the success of its human space flight missions and the triumphant return of the Apollo 13 crew, NASA presented Omega with the Silver Snoopy Award in 1970, representing the highest distinction awarded by NASA Astronauts.

Co-Axial Escapement

In 1993 Omega purchased a patent for the Co-Axial escapement, the first practical mechanical escapement introduced in 250 years. Invented by English watchmaker George Daniels in 1976, the Co-Axial escapement reduces friction in the movement, a common issue in the traditionally used Swiss Lever Escapement.

By 1999, Omega was finally able to adapt a movement to the Co-Axial Escapement, making the Calibre-2500 available. In 2013 Omega launched the Co-Axial-8508, the first truly antimagnetic movement. Capable of withstanding over 15,000 gausses through the use of non-ferromagnetic materials.

The movement itself resists magnetism; it saw no need for a protective inner case, allowing for date windows and a transparent case back. This technology paved the way for a new watch certification process in 2015, the METAS Certification.

Passing a series of 8 independent tests and performing within the parameters set by COSC, Omega now qualifies its timepieces as Master Chronometers. The key attribute of the METAS Chronometer Certification is that it ensures testing of magnetic fields up to 15,000 gausses, establishing a new quality standard within the watch industry.

James Bond

In 2021, Omega hit the silver screen for the 9th time, co-starring with the world’s favorite spy, James Bond, in No Time To Die. Unlike many other Bond Seamasters, this watch took inspiration from Daniel Craig’s personal feedback on what would become the ultimate tool Seamaster, with a penchant for style.

What Is the Status of Omega Today

Omega’s competitive price point and better availability in the luxury watch segment generally allow us to position it as a healthier alternative to Rolex’s offerings. The main sticking point in the future will undoubtedly favor its recent forays in technical advancements and accuracy certifications, rendering Rolex’s current spec sheet inferior.

Omega’s status today is that of a seasoned high, pedigree watchmaker, with currently the most diverse offerings. In unrestrained fashion, it has proved to be continually innovative and stays true to its values in delivering the industry’s finest accuracy, precision, and robustness.

Its collection continues to be driven forward into the future of high watchmaking, with its own unique design language, case materials, and complications brands such as Rolex are not daring enough to challenge.

The Best Omega Chronograph Watches

For anyone who has racing in their hearts, a passion for humankind’s exploits in space travel, or any chronograph complication enthusiast, Omega’s chronograph offerings are unparalleled in diversity and history.

Following the launch of the 1957 Speedmaster, a watch initially intended for racing enthusiasts, the Speedmaster went on to conquer timekeeping in space as we know it today. Such accolades and watchmaking prowess have enabled Omega to release many diverse chronograph models, each with a different story through its aesthetics, functions, and heritage.

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is arguably the most influential and talked about watch ever made. The only timepiece to be certified by NASA for all manned space missions and extravehicular activity since 1965, this watch was part of the most remarkable journey in the history of all humankind—the journey to the Moon and back.

It shares a remarkable resemblance to its predecessors and introductory models from 1963-1969. This is a huge testament to the legacy of this model, a design language that remains timeless. Due to its long lineage, however, the continued development of this model has seen it lose some of its beloved vintage cues.

In 2021, Omega cleverly revamped the model, re-incorporating collectors’ favorite vintage elements and refining the model incrementally. We saw the return of a stepped dial, the dot over 90 on the tachymeter bezel, a revamped bracelet more fitting to its original aesthetic that rolls on the wrist better and tapers beautifully, and a new still 42mm case that’s half a millimeter thinner and a millimeter shorter to give us a better wearing experience.

The most significant overhaul is in its movement, the 3861, a METAS Certified Master Chronometer manual-wind chronograph movement, now with a Co-Axial escapement and 50-hour power reserve.

Like previous models, it is offered with a Hesalite crystal or a sapphire crystal with a sapphire caseback. The Hesalite models are equipped with a nylon fabric strap ($6,300) or a thoroughly brushed stainless steel bracelet ($6,600). The sapphire models either come with a leather strap ($7,200) or with a brushed and polished stainless steel bracelet ($7,600).

Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321(ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001)

The Speedmaster Caliber-321, also known as “the Ed White Speedmaster”, is a 2019 re-issue of the 3rd generation Speedmaster, the watch worn by Ed White during America’s first-ever spacewalk in 1965. This model brings back the legendary Caliber-321, an essential part of the Speedmaster’s original history. 

Inspired by the incredible Lemania-2310, the fabled Calibre-321, was the first movement certified by NASA for all manned space missions and extravehicular activity in 1965. It later powered all Speedmasters worn during the Apollo missions, including all six moon landings.

The Calibre-321 is so unique that Omega produces it separately from all its other calibers, except the tourbillions. It is put together in a special Atelier by Omega’s master watchmakers, each caliber assembled and regulated by the same person using a two-fold assembly method.

These manufacturing characteristics have made the Calibre-321 very limited in production numbers. At $14,600, its retail price is similar to that of a stainless steel Rolex Daytona. Its classical crown-guard-less case of 39.7mm makes for a more elegant wearing experience than the Professional Speedmaster.

It has a ceramic bezel, a laser-etched Omega logo on the sapphire crystal, galvanized dial, and a legendary and visually beautiful Sedna Gold plated movement. This is a special Speedmaster for the price of a regular Daytona. 

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon (ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003)

This year marks the 10th anniversary of the sensational Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon, originally launched in Baselworld 2013. The first official all-black Speedmaster, a huge deal for us fanboys, is a progressive model of the Speedmaster Co-Axial Calibre-9300 Chronograph launched in 2011. 

A non-Professional model for those who love the NASA heritage, cult status, and design of the original; but require the practicality of a date window, a timezone function, and a 60-hour power-reserve automatic movement.

It has a twin register sub-dial layout rather than the Professional’s triple, preserving the same functions and delivering an uncluttered aesthetic. The Dark Side of the Moon’s 44.25mm case is crafted from a single block of zirconium oxide ceramic, the dial, pushers, and pin buckle are also made to match. The ceramic case has satin-brushed and polished facets just like its steel compatriot.

Despite its larger size and thickness of 16.2mm, it is a fairly light and wearable watch due to its ceramic construction, calfskin/textile strap, and 49.7mm lug-to-lug distance. It originally retailed for $12,000, nearly double the professional model, yet worthwhile to many collectors for its entirely new novelty within the Speedmaster lineage.

Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 (ref. 318.90.45.79.01.001)

A call to the 21st century and development in the realm of quartz and digital technology saw Omega broaden its timekeeping capabilities with the launch of the X-33. First introduced as “the Mars watch”, the 2019 Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 in its third iteration is still used today.

Developed, tested, and qualified by the European Space Agency, it is the preferred choice for NASA Astronauts and cosmonauts for onboard activities on the International Space Station. The Speedmaster Skywalker X33, fashioned in Grade-2 Titanium with a ceramic bezel inlay, is an all-out industrial design taking the Moonwatch into the modern era.

Its dial features analog hands and LCD windows, with a large case size of 45mm for easy readability and legibility. The X-33 displays 3 different time zones, a chronograph, a timer, a Mission Elapsed Timer, a Phase Elapsed Timer, 3 programmable alarms (80 decibels loud), and a perpetual calendar. 

Regarding its pricing, it has a retail price of approximately $5,750, but as of writing this article, far less in the secondary market. The X-33 is one exceptional example of a non-mechanical, purpose-derived tool watch that was created for the demands of modern-day astronauts with a raft of functionality that can even be adapted to everyday use on earth.

The Best Omega Dive Watches

Omega’s military background during World War II saw massive developments in shock resistance, anti-magnetism, and waterproofness and ushered in a new era of diving timekeeping technology. 

This led to the release of the Seamaster in 1948, the Professional Seamaster 300 in 1957, the extreme Ploprof in 1967, the revamped Seamaster Diver 300M in 1993 that became 007’s first Seamaster featured in Golden Eye 1995, the dressier Aqua Terra in 2002, and the modernized Planet Ocean in 2005 that pushed the envelope in embracing sporty utility and luxury. Omega now boasts a dive watch collection for every recreational or serious diving need.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.03.001)

The Seamaster Diver 300M is easily identified by its fans as “the Bond Seamaster”. On the silver screen, Omega took charge of its storytelling prowess and showed the world that it was within its ethos to produce a luxury tool watch capable of living up to the style and technical expectations of the world’s greatest fictional spy.

Launched in 2018, celebrating its own 25th anniversary, the latest iteration of the Seamaster Diver 300M is now a Co-Axial Master Chronometer using the Calibre-8800, its most significant update that can be seen through the display case back.

This model is currently available in 5 steel variations, including the ‘Seaweed’ Green model released in 2022. Through its experimentation with ceramic, Omega has pushed its capabilities with the material extensively in the modern era. 

The updated ceramic bezel comes with white enamel inlays, the ceramic dial is laser etched with the beloved wave pattern, the skeletonized hands have been updated, the now color-matched date wheel has been moved to 6 o’clock giving more symmetry to the dial, the case size has increased to 42mm making it more legible, the iconic turned lugs remain, and there’s also an updated cone-shaped helium escape valve. 

Priced at $5,300 on a rubber strap and $5,600 on a steel bracelet, it is technically, and qualitatively one of the most advanced dive watches you can buy for under $10,000.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M (ref.215.30.44.21.01.002)

The Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M, with a stainless steel case diameter of 43.5mm and 16.1mm thick, is a beefed-up version of a traditional Seamaster diver 300M, offering twice the depth rating (600m). It pushes the envelope with a heritage-inspired design but is still modern.

Unique to it is the usage of playful 70s colors, with 4 color variants available in steel, featuring heavy or restrained use of orange elements in combination with the primary color. This model offers a black dial made of polished ceramic, with orange Arabic numerals, and a date window at 3 o’clock.

Its black ceramic bezel, for the first time, features a rubberized inlay on the first 15 minutes of the diving scale; the rest is filled with Omega’s Liquidmetal. The release of this third-generation Planet Ocean 600m in 2016 made it one of the first models to receive the amazing Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre-8800 movement.

At the time, this showed Omega’s commitment to pushing the boundaries of luxury sports utility and innovation with this model, the Planet Ocean’s mission statement, ever since. It is priced at $6,700 on a bracelet and $6,450 on a rubber strap.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M “No Time To Die” (ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001) 

Through Omega’s pursuit to create the ultimate Bond watch, in 2020, we received the Seamaster Diver 300M No Time To Die Special Edition. Designed with personal feedback from actor Daniel Craig, who plays James Bond in the 2021 movie No Time To Die. 

Made lighter and tougher for Bond in his action-packed missions, much like a stripped-down 911 GT3 RS built for blitzing the Nurburgring, the Seamaster No Time To Die features a 42mm case and bracelet fashioned in lightweight Grade-2 titanium. 

It is stripped of the date complication, giving a serious tool watch aesthetic, and made slimmer with the removal of its transparent case back, replaced by one engraved with the 007 and broad-arrow symbol. Less is more here.

The broad arrow marking also finds its way onto the dial to highlight its military inspiration. The dial is sported in rich tropical brown with faux caramel patina on its markers and hands. Paired with a matching lumed anodized aluminum bezel meant to age and wear gracefully with time.

It also features a domed sapphire with a sexy tapering milanese titanium bracelet on a deployant clasp. The whole watch is vintage-inspired but integrated uniquely and beautifully. It is priced at $9,500 on a bracelet and $8,400 on a Bond-style nato.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M (ref. 215.30.46.21.03.001)

Water resistance is essential and celebrated in watchmaking, especially within sports watch segments. Naturally, brands such as Rolex and Omega have constantly innovated to push these boundaries to broaden and improve their lineup. At the very top of the food chain now sits the Ultradeep, which in 2019 beat Rolex to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, the deepest point in the ocean, by a few meters as part of a challenging expedition of 5 deepest dives.

This was done thanks to Omega’s infusion of Liquid Metal technology into the crystal that can endure 22 tons of direct pressure. In 2021, the Planet Ocean 6000M Ultradeep, a commercial model, was finally made available with a water resistance of 6,000 meters; this is now the halo model of Omega’s dive watch lineup.

At 45.5mm and 18.1mm thick, it handles its supreme water resistance as gracefully as the technically inferior Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller. The Ultradeep is a science experiment in unique proprietary Omega materials. Featuring an O-MEGASTEEL case, black ceramic bezel, diving scale in Liquidmetal, blue to black lacquered gradient dial, 18K white Gold hands and hour markers, and an O-MEGASTEEL patented adjustable dive bracelet.

Housing a Master Chronometer Calibre-8912, the Ultradeep is one of the most hardcore wearable tool watches on offer today. It is priced at $12,000 on a bracelet and $11,700 on a rubber strap.

Best Everyday Omega Watches

From the utilitarian-derived tool watches in the Omega collection, a few models are able to find the sweet spot in the form of versatility in everyday use. The Aqua Terra, Globemaster, and Railmaster are current offerings that thread the fine line of robustness and refinement extremely well.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (ref. 220.10.41.21.01.001)

Born in the 21st century, the Aqua Terra was Omega’s take on a less professional, more elegant, refined dive watch aesthetic. For a more sophisticated look, it ditches the diving bezel for a polished one and is attached to a highly polished center flat link bracelet with a butterfly clasp.

The Aqua Terra is now heralded as a versatile daily wearer in the Omega dive watches collection with a great water resistance of 150m. From 2017, the case is now a symmetrical 41mm instead of 41.5mm, and the teak pattern on the dial is now horizontal, more identifiable to wooden decks of luxury sailboats as intended by its designers.

Also, the date window has been moved to 6 o’clock giving more symmetry to the dial. The most significant update is its addition of the METAS Certified Chronometer Calibre-8900 with 60 hours of power reserve, making it a serious contender as a robust, refined, uncompromised daily wearer. Priced at $5,900 on a steel bracelet, $5,700 on rubber, and $5,400 on leather.

Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)

In 2015, Omega chose to launch the Constellation Globemaster and debut its first METAS Certified Master Chronometer, the Calibre-8900. As a successor to the model introduced to celebrate a century of watchmaking by Omega, and a history of housing top-tier movements, the new Globemaster would rewrite the technical script. 

With an elegant pie pan dial reminiscent of the 1952 model and a fully brushed modern-vintage sized 39mm diameter by 12.6mm thin case with a steel fluted bezel reminiscent of the Genta designed 70s models, the new marries its vintage aesthetics of different eras to look like a modern, sophisticated everyday watch. 

Not forgetting its history, set into its sapphire caseback, is a relief medallion of the Geneva Observatory surrounded by 8 stars. With a 5-pointed star to finish off the dial, its overall design uses a lot of symbolism to tell the story of its achievements within the Omega lineup. Priced at $7,100 on a leather strap and $7,500 on a bracelet, the Globemaster is a tasteful, sporty, and elegant timepiece.

Omega Railmaster (ref. 220.10.40.20.01.001)

In 2018, we saw the launch of the new Railmaster, a reworked heritage model of the original 1957 Railmaster introduced for railway staff or anyone who worked close to magnetic fields. 

Working with a timeless aesthetic, we have a fully brushed stainless steel case and bracelet, a heavily sun-brushed dial offered in black, grey, and denim blue, classic 3-6-9-12 painted markings, cut-out vintage style faux patina indices, and brushed hands to create modern vintage inspired daily wear tool watch. 

At 40mm in diameter and 12mm thick, it is overall a universally wearable size. The original Railmaster could reach an industry first of 1000 gauss magnetic fields, and the new one finally gets the METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-8806 able to withstand magnetism of 15,000 gauss. 

Technically far superior to the Rolex Milgauss, and with a minimalistic timeless vintage tool watch design, the Railmaster is a tempting tool watch for $5,200 on a bracelet and $4,900 on a strap.

Best Dress Omega Watches

A good dress watch generally sacrifices conventional materials and finishes for a more elegant less-robust representation of a time-telling instrument. Generally, this requires better finishing capabilities and more intricate tolerances, with restraint from industrial design and favoring classical beauty and minimalism.

Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 432.53.40.21.02.002)

The De Ville Trésor is Omega’s relaunch of the original Trésor from 1949 that housed a legendary caliber for the time. The design has been integrated timelessly into the modern age. With a 40mm case size, it wears its past inspiration nicely.

It features a silver opaline dial with a domed vintage clous de Paris structure, a date window positioned at 6 o’clock, gold stick hour indices, and dauphine hands, matching the 10.6mm thin Sedna-Gold case. Overall, it’s a design focusing on simple elegance with high-quality watchmaking, finishing, and materials.

Underneath it all is a high-quality movement, the Master Co-Axial Calibre 8511, a manual wind with 60hr power reserve. It is priced at $14,000.

Omega De Ville Prestige (ref. 434.13.41.21.06.001)

The Omega De Ville Prestige, available since 1994 as Omega’s dress watch offering, now with an automatic movement, a power reserve indicator, and a date, is a refined dress watch with a few conveniences. Its movement is the automatic METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-8810.

This 41mm stainless steel model has a domed PVD platinum-gold dial and PVD Sedna-Gold hands with altering Roman numerals and cabochon indexes. At $5,400, with its advanced movement, elegant looks, and dimensions, it is a great offering for a dress watch that follows all the rules.

Special Omega Watches

Omega’s thirst for innovation has allowed them to create a few distinctive models with a quirky tool-derived purpose or for the purpose of showing off its ultimate representations in the form of high complications.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof (ref. 227.90.55.21.04.001)

Omega still retains the unique ’70s-inspired Ploprof in their dive-watch collection. During its time, the original Ploprof was legendary, utilizing its mono-block case to rival technology like the helium escape valve. 

The Seamaster Ploprof 600 had a unique aesthetic reminiscent of its time from 1970, an era for quirky tool-inspired design. It was heralded for being the most robust dive watch on offer, and although its aesthetics have stayed polarizing, it works for being a tough watch developed for and with COMEX divers.

Following its re-launch in 2009 and technology advancing over 40 years, it now utilizes a helium escape valve, making servicing easier. It now features a depth rating of 1200 meters, twice the depth as before, and as of 2015, is offered with a METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-9812. 

This model comes with an electric blue ceramic bezel with Super-Luminova markings, a lacquered white dial with orange aluminum and varnished blue hands, a Grade-5 titanium case and clasp, with a Grade-2 titanium polished shark-proof mesh bracelet to make up a fun, retro, and tough dive-watch. It is priced at $12,600.

Omega De Ville Prestige (ref. 434.13.41.21.06.001)

The Omega De Ville Prestige, available since 1994 as Omega’s dress watch offering, now with an automatic movement, a power reserve indicator, and a date, is a refined dress watch with a few conveniences. Its movement is the automatic METAS Certified Master Chronometer Calibre-8810.

This 41mm stainless steel model has a domed PVD platinum-gold dial and PVD Sedna-Gold hands with altering Roman numerals and cabochon indexes. At $5,400, with its advanced movement, elegant looks, and dimensions, it is a great offering for a dress watch that follows all the rules.

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Master Chronometer (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

An achievement in watchmaking can always be celebrated with another achievement that further emphasizes a brand’s capabilities. This is the case with the De Ville Tourbillon, with the first-ever manual winding central tourbillon movement to be Master Chronometer Certified.

This watch is an exercise in Omega delivering haute horlogerie level watchmaking, in combination with the robustness of their everyday watches. The best of Omega’s proprietary materials are used to match its high complication. Its 43mm case is a blend of Sedna-Gold and Canopus-Gold. 

Its Sedna-Gold dial is treated in black PVD, and polished Sedna-Gold indexes and hands are visible. Its seconds hand is set in the tourbillon titanium bridge, giving it a distinctively theatrical, high-complication look. With a Sedna-Gold movement at the back to enjoy, this watch comes with a heavy price tag of $183,500.

Conclusion

With over two centuries of industry-leading watchmaking technology, Omega has maintained a legacy of being the most approachable, illustrious, and trustworthy partner in humanity’s pioneering expeditions in outer space, at the deepest point in the ocean, in 30 Olympic Games, and on the silver screen. 

A passion for reliable chronometric precision to be used in the real world has created legacies upon which Omega’s storied collection is built. Looking into the future, Omega’s diverse and legendary collection offers a great platform for evolution and innovation, a timeless luxury that will be enjoyed by its collectors for decades and centuries to come.

When you think about Omega, you think of the Speedmaster; went to the moon. Seamaster; went to the bottom of the ocean. MoonSwatch; went to the Gala Awards evening on the wrist of James Bond.

Unfortunately, the rich history of Omega’s dress watches and their contemporary offers drowns in a sea of sports models (pun intended). However, upon a closer look, you’ll realize that Omega has some of the best dress options you can actually get your hands on.

About Omega Dress Watches

As mentioned, Omega is famous for its sports models; in fact, Jack Forster even mentioned on a “Hey Hodinkee” video that most people forget about their dress options simply because their sports models are such good value. 

This is actually a pity seeing as how Omega has some brilliant options for those who prefer a bit of opulence rather than added water resistance. The Constellation line has been a mainstay for years, and the original pie-pan Constellation is on everyone’s list of must-haves. The Globemaster presents itself rather subtly and still remains one of the best luxury-orientated daily watches on the market. 

The De-Ville line hardly needs an introduction. With sophisticated style and more variety than you could ever need, this line certainly has the valor to stand up against the other giants in the Omega display case. The Seamaster is one of the best entry-level luxury divers, and the Speedmaster, well, they don’t call it Speedy Tuesday for nothing. 

History of Omega Dress Watches

Omega set up shop originally in 1848 under the name La Generale Watch Co., founded by Louis Brandt, and officially switched to Omega SA in 1984. The first wristwatches bearing the Omega name were produced in 1900 and were used by English army officers. 

It is not entirely clear what the first Omega dress watch was, seeing as the description of a dress watch has changed throughout the years. Perhaps the first minute-repeater wristwatch released in September 1892 by Louis Brandt & Frère (precursor to Omega) was the first. 

The Constellation line is still in production today, and while it has gained sporty elements to keep up with the modern taste, it was anything but sporty upon its release in the early 1950s. Perhaps the De Ville line is what you would describe as their first dress watch, which was released in 1967. 

The Best Omega Dress Watches

1. Omega Constellation Globemaster 39mm White Dial (ref. 130.30.39.21.02.001)

The Globemaster line is perhaps the most underrated line within the Omega brand. Beneath a sea of Seamasters and Speedmasters, you have, in essence, the perfect everyday watch for those that prefer a bit more luxury than what the Aqua Terra offers. 

Sporting a 39mm diameter matched with an interesting fluted bezel constructed of tungsten for added durability without sacrificing the beautiful lines created by the highly polished case. The case sits on a beautifully finished three-link bracelet but can be dressed up with a leather strap as well. 

The model line also features various configurations, some with more luxurious undertones like the ones finished with rose or yellow gold or the blue-dialed versions. This particular reference presents itself with the white pie pan dial similar to the 1952 Constellation model. 

The movement within highly reliable Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8900 equipped with a 60-hour power reserve and resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss.

2. Omega De Ville Prestige 39.5mm (ref. 424.13.40.20.02.006)

Since its launch in 1976, the De Ville line has been a mainstay in the Omega catalog as a ‘dressier’ offshoot of the Seamaster but has since become a standalone series. The classy and elegant design is reflected in the small-by-today’s-standards 39.5mm case and is presented on a ‘hunter green’ leather strap. 

Several formal attributes are found on the dial, like the blackened hands, the black Roman numeral hour markers, and the six blackened cabochons. The silvery white dial features a silk-like pattern with an opaline finish and a subtle date aperture at 3 o’clock. 

3. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 38mm Black Dial (ref. 220.13.38.20.01.001)

The contemporary Aqua Terra line is reminiscent of the original 1948 Seamaster and is perhaps the most versatile Omega in the current lineup. The model presented here is no longer in production, but you’ll easily get this timepiece on the second-hand market. 

Sticking to the maritime theme, the dial features a black horizontal “teak” pattern similar to what you might find on a yacht. The dial remains extremely legible thanks to rhodium-plated hands and indexes, all filled with Super-LumiNova. A tenuous date function is located at the 6 o’clock position to increase the utility of this luxury-orientated everyday watch. 

Within the highly polished case is the Master Chronometer caliber 8800, certified by METAS and equipped with a 55-hour power reserve. 

4. Omega Constellation Globemaster 41mm Annual Calendar (ref. 130.53.41.22.03.001)

If you’re looking for an interesting spin on the annual calendar complication, perhaps the Constellation Globemaster Annual Calendar might be the watch for you. Presented with a classic size of 41mm and rose gold (or Sedna™ gold) construction mounted on a blue leather strap that matches the blue dial. 

The dial is perhaps the most special part of this watch. Between each of the pie pan facets, you’ll find the different months of the year written in cursive gold. The hands and the applied hour markers are also finished in gold. 

Flipping the case reveals even more gold presented with the rotor featuring Geneva waves in arabesque. The movement in question is the Master Chronometer caliber 8923, equipped with a 55-hour power reserve.  

5. Omega De Ville Prestige 41mm Power Reserve (ref. 434.53.41.21.10.001)

Matching dark green with gold has become tremendously popular in recent years, and Omega capitalized on this with a De Ville Prestige sporting this exact color scheme. The dark green dial features a stunning sun-brushed finished green dial that contrasts greatly against the golden Roman numerals and cabochon indexes. 

Two subregisters are located at the 6 and 9 o’clock positions displaying the power reserve and small seconds, respectively, improving the utility of this dress piece – something to chat about at dinner. The 41mm golden case is a classic design with a highly-polished bezel and lugs. 

Flipping the case reveals the sapphire caseback displaying the Master Co-Axial caliber 8810. The Co-Axial feature not only improves accuracy but also extends how long the watch can run before a service is needed.

This particular self-winding movement is approved by METAS and is resistant to magnetic fields of up to 15,000 gauss in case you go wandering around any heavy machinery with your dress piece. 

6. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 41mm Sedna Gold Brown Dial (ref. 220.53.41.21.13.001)

If the combination of gold and deep green isn’t what you like, then perhaps a more subtle brown would suit you. This Aqua Terra is decked out with Sedna™ gold (or rose gold) and a deep brown dial that complements each other beautifully. 

Like other Aqua Terras, the movement powering this dressy Aqua Terra is the Master Chronometer caliber 8901, certified by METAS and equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. But the movement is not where this timepiece shines but rather shines on the dial.

The sun-brushed brown dial combined with the horizontal “teak” pattern creates a beautiful contrast against the golden hands and applied hour markers. The mahogany theme continues with a brown strap and Sedna™ gold foldover clasp to create an integrated and upper-class look.  

7. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 39mm Gray Dial (ref. 131.13.39.20.06.002)

The Constellation namesake has been in production since the 50s but has only recently become its own line. While some might not like the contemporary Manhattan design, it is still one of the most opulent options produced by Omega. 

This 39mm steel ref. 131.13.39.20.06.002 features typical markers of the Constellation line, the fixed steel bezel with Roman numeral markers, and the “claws” on the side of the case. The sapphire caseback displays the expertly finished Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8800 equipped with a Rhodium plated finish with Geneva waves in arabesque.

Yet again, it’s the dial where this timepiece shines. A horizontally-brushed ruthenium-grey dial is matched with blued numeral indexes, hands, and Omega scripture.  

8. Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm Stainless Steel Silver Dial (ref. 435.13.40.21.02.001)

While the Tresor line was originally reserved for smaller sizes and for women in particular, the modern versions are offered in larger options and even worn by men since all watches are actually unisex. 

Unlike many of the options that feature a quartz movement, the reference presented here features a Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8910, a hand-winding movement with expertly finished elements visible through the sapphire caseback.  

The case is perfectly sized for a contemporary dress piece, 40mm in diameter and 10.1mm thick. Moving from the highly polished case inwards to the domed opaline silver dial that displays nothing more but the 18K white gold hour indexes and a subtle date aperture at the 6 o’clock position. 

9. Omega Seamaster Olympic Official Timekeeper (ref. 522.53.40.20.04.002)

Omega has a rich history with the Olympics; in fact, Omega has been the official timekeeper of the Olympics for the past 28 Olympiads since 1932. They have also been known to produce limited-edition Olympic-themed watches such as this Olympic Official Timekeeper. 

This particular reference is a throwback to the vintage dress pieces produced by the brand in the 20s and sports various vintage-inspired attributes. A no-date eggshell white enamel dial embellished with a pop of color thanks to the red vintage Omega logo located at the 12 o’clock position matched with period-appropriate white gold leaf hands. 

The timepiece also sports a 39.5mm case constructed from Canopus Gold™, which is an alloy of 18k white gold with platinum, rhodium, and palladium. This material has been used by Omega since 2015 and is known for both its optic appeal and resistance to scratching.

A taught lug-to-lug measurement of 44.5mm means the watch will fit most wrists perfectly and, with a thickness of merely 12mm, will slide under any dress cuff. 

10. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 36mm White Dial (ref. 131.10.36.20.02.001)

While many of us would love to wear a vintage Constellation on the wrist, they can be hard to find and maintain. The contemporary version lives up to the namesake by being just as visually appealing while holding true to the standards of Omega’s technological prowess. 

The Master Chronometer 36mm comes in many iterations, and this silver-dialed steel version presents itself as a subdued and subtle luxury dress piece. With classic sizing of 36mm in diameter and a 39.2mm lug-to-lug, the watch would not look out of place at a black tie event. 

The steel-on-steel aesthetic of the fixed steel bezel and steel case is a design synonymous with the Manhattan Constellation introduced in 1982. A sun-brushed silvery dial is matched with 18K white gold indexes for added opulence behind, which beats the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8800, a highly reliable self-winding movement with a 55-hour power reserve. 

11. Omega De Ville Prestige 41mm Small Seconds (ref. 434.13.41.20.10.001)

The De Ville Prestige line has been adorning the wrists of Omega enthusiasts since 1994 and finds itself in its third generation, still upholding its values of elegance combined with unusual optical aesthetics. While the 41mm polished case of this model might seem regular, the dial is anything but. 

The dial color can only be described as pine green and features a random vertical pattern in a sun-brushed finish – potentially making each dial individual. Golden-applied indexes and hands contrast beautifully against this color. The thin Roman numerals and cabochon indexes create a minimalist quality synonymous with dress pieces. 

Behind the intriguing dial sits the Master Co-Axial caliber 8802, which is also visible through the sapphire caseback. A self-winding movement with a decent 55-hour power reserve displaying time, small seconds, and a date at the 3 o’clock position. 

12. Omega Seamaster 300 (ref. 233.20.41.21.01.001)

The Seamaster namesake hardly needs an introduction. Originally introduced in 1948, and has been in the catalog in one way or another ever since. While the Seamaster 300 Professional covers the sporty and diving section, the contemporary Seamaster 300 would appear to be a bit more grown-up. 

The model referenced here is finished in steel and 18K Sedna™ gold (rose gold) and features a ceramic bezel insert. The sand-blasted black dial has a brilliant contrast against the golden hands and patina-colored indexes, creating a dichotomy between sportiness and luxury. 

With the Master Co-Axial caliber 8400, the watch also presents itself as a rather usable traveling watch. With no date function to worry about, you’ll be able to set time easily and worry-free. There is a blue-dialed version of this reference as well but that veers more towards sportiness rather than dressiness. 

13. Omega Speedmaster 38 (ref. 324.32.38.50.02.001)

The Speedmaster is perhaps the only watch that all enthusiasts unanimously all respect. Whether it be a 321 version or even the Snoopy, there’s a Speedy out there for you. But what if you find yourself in the company of affluent folk? Which Speedmaster would you wear then? Well, the ref. 324.32.38.50.02.001, of course (I don’t expect anyone to remember the reference number of any of these pieces but it’s simply called the Speedmaster 38 okay). 

As the name suggests, this is a 38mm Speedy sporting interesting attributes compared to the mainstream brothers. First, it’s worn on a light leather strap making for a more dressy aesthetic. Elongated gold indexes on the dial match the minimalist approach when combined with the smaller seconds track on the outer rim of the dial. 

The bezel is finished in aluminum and doesn’t seem to have the same visual noise as the bezels found on other Speedmasters. Interestingly enough, this reference also has a 100m water resistance rating, double that of a normal Speedmaster, which is excellent if your formal occasion happens to have a pool and you feel inclined to take a dive. 

14. Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm Small Seconds (ref. 435.13.40.21.03.002)

Moving back to purely dress-oriented pieces with the De Ville Trésor. The Trésor line has been in production since 1949, and this contemporary version is a no-nonsense dress piece that, if it were alive, would scoff at the word “sporty”. 

Embodying elegance in a simple 40mm stainless steel case featuring highly polished edges and lugs matched with a domed deep blue dial. The long and slender 18K white gold hands are complimented with elongated white gold hour markers to create a rather slender look, matching the slender case thickness of 10.1mm. 

Thanks to the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8926 within, the timepiece tells hours and minutes with the addition of a small seconds sub registrar located at the 6 o’clock position. This METAS-certified movement has a rather robust 72-hour power reserve and features a manual-winding mechanism allowing for the entire case to be thinner due to the lack of a self-winding rotor. 

15. Omega Seamaster 1948 (ref. 511.93.38.20.99.002)

With a Speedmaster for every Tuesday of the month, you could opt for a Seamaster for every other day. If you like your Seamaster with a tad of grandeur, perhaps the Seamaster 1948 could be the one for you – released to celebrate the very first Seamaster models of 1948 with vintage styling and modern technology. 

Platinum was used to construct the 38mm polished case, a material we rarely see used in the horology world. In fact, the domed opaline dial is also finished in platinum and features rose gold hour markers, dauphine hands, and a vintage Omega logo. 

The distinctive design continues when you flip the case, revealing the METAS-certified Master Chronometer caliber 8807 behind the sapphire caseback. The sapphire crystal is laser-engraved and lacquered (by hand) with a Chris-Craft boat and a Gloster Meteor aircraft. These vessels were used in WWII, and the aviators wore, you guessed it, Omega. 

16. Omega Constellation Master Chronometer 41mm Black Dial (ref. 131.33.41.21.01.001)

The Manhattan Constellation might not be for everyone, but this black option might persuade you otherwise. Sized for contemporary tastes at 41mm and features a blend of a steel case, a polished black ceramic bezel, and something called Liquidmetal™. This is a blend of titanium, zirconium, and copper, which Omega bonds with ceramic to allow for increased hardness which allows them to use different finishing methods. 

The unembellished sun-brushed black dial is subtly decorated with the use of rhodium-plated hour markers, hands, and the Omega logo. Timekeeping duties are dealt with by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8900. METAS-approved and equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. 

17. Omega Seamaster Boutique Editions (ref. 511.13.40.20.11.002)

Boutique and limited editions are something you either love or hate, but we cannot deny just how special these pieces sometimes are. Omega Boutiques had the opportunity to sell this Seamaster featuring visual appeal like nothing else in the product line. 

A 39.5mm polished case with a gorgeous burgundy lacquered domed dial displaying a gradient color change from a lighter center to a deeper outer dial. 18K white gold hour markers and hands make the dress-orientated piece highly legible with a subtle date aperture located at the 6 o’clock position.  

The caseback displays more of Omega’s craftsmanship, with several different engravings paying tribute to the brand’s iconography and achievements over the centuries. The same pattern can be found on the inside of the special World of Omega watch box.

18. Omega De Ville Trésor 40mm Sedna Gold Gray Dial (ref. 435.53.40.21.06.001)

From one minimalist piece to the next, here we have a De Ville Trésor sporting an 18K rose gold case measuring 40mm in diameter and with a 44.8mm lug-to-lug the watch wears comfortably on most wrists. A snug 10.8mm thickness means it’ll slide under most cuffs, but you wouldn’t want to hide this piece. 

The domed grey enamel dial is subtle yet beautiful to behold and juxtaposes elegantly with the elongated rose gold hour indexes and thin hands. The dial finish is thanks to the Grand Feu technique, or the art of fusing glass to metal which is incredibly hard to execute.  

Matched with a grey leather strap and the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8929, the watch not only shines in beauty but in technological prowess as well – a manual-winding movement, METAS-certified, and with a robust 72-hour power reserve. 

19. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra GMT Worldtimer Sedna Gold (ref. 220.50.43.22.02.001)

The world timer complication was officially featured on a wristwatch for the first time in 1931, thanks to the innovation of Louis Cottier, a brilliant Swiss watchmaker. Omega’s contemporary version finds itself in the everyday option of their catalog – the Aqua Terra. 

To add to the dressy aesthetic of this piece, the case and three-link bracelet are fully constructed from 18K yellow gold or Sedna™ gold. The hour markers and hands are also finished in gold and are filled with lume. 

While the case is something special, the dial is where the noteworthy craftsmanship of Omega begins to show. They took an unusual spin on the world timer complication using texture, color, and finishing techniques to make a busy dial appear a lot more visually appealing. 

In the center, you’ll find a grade 5 titanium plate that has been laser-engraved to display a realistic globe as well as the watch’s namesake at noon. Chemical processing on said globe allows Omega to display topography and different biomes without the use of paint.

Surrounding this titanium plate is a 24-hour display behind a Hesalite crystal, split to display day and night time hours. As with other world timers, you’ll find the names of cities towards the outer edge of the dial, some between the faceted hour makers and some on the rehaut (or flange). 

It would be hard to find another world timer that features such attention to detail at the price point, and while many would prefer a normal Seamaster or a Speedmaster, those that know will know just how special this piece is. And those who don’t know might just appreciate the globe on your watch because it looks quite cool. 

20. Omega De Ville Tourbillon (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

While the Tourbillon might not be essential in the world we live in today, it was essential not so long ago. The first Tourbillon wristwatch caliber was actually created by Omega in 1947, but the first Tourbillon was created by legendary watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801. Originally created to be used in pocket watches to massively improve accuracy, they are slightly useless on wristwatches. 

When you first see this watch, you realize the Tourbillon is purely there for aesthetics. Somewhat reminiscent of the Omega La Magique, the 43mm rose and white gold case features the Tourbillon in the center of the sun-brushed dial. Every part of this opulent piece is handmade by a select group of horologists at Omega’s Atelier Tourbillon. 

Across the Tourbillon sits a titanium bridge from which the seconds hand runs, forged from rose gold; something you won’t see often and sets the watch apart from the other Tourbillon options on the market. Turning the case reveals the expertly finished Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 2640 finished in pure 18K rose gold. 

Conclusion

If you’re looking for a timepiece that breaks away from the onslaught of sports models we’ve seen over the past 20 years, you’ve got plenty of options now. Omega has a rich history of creating some of the most desirable and iconic dress-orientated models, and there’s a version for each of us. If not, simply buy a vintage pie pan Constellation; nothing beats a vintage gold Omega. 

Imagine that you’re a new watch enthusiast. You have fallen in love with that Omega Seamaster 300 you saw strategically posed on Instagram and know that you need to have one. Being new to the game, you probably haven’t quite reached the levels of delusion allowing you to believe that $5000 plus on a watch is a “great value”, so it’s time to start searching everyone’s favorite auction site searching for the deal of a lifetime. 

You’re armed with a little bit of knowledge and a lot of eagerness to be the next one to post a “New Watch Alert” in your favorite Facebook group. After a few weeks, you’ve found it! You’re almost shaking with excitement as you find “the deal of a lifetime” and can’t put your payment information in fast enough.

After a few minutes, the rush of excitement has likely subsided, and you have come off of cloud nine and returned comfortably to reality. Did you really just score a like new Omega Seamaster 300 for 1/3 of the MSRP because the seller “needs to sell ASAP”? 

As reality settles in, you probably start doing what many of us would do in this situation. Frantically researching to see if you genuinely scored a deal or just learned a very expensive lesson.

Although this scenario plays out several times a day amongst several brands in the watch industry, we will specifically take a look at Omega and what to look for to avoid the pings of regret that this hypothetical new enthusiast is feeling right about now.

Why Are There So Many Fake Omega Watches?

With a history dating back to 1848, Omega is one of the most prestigious luxury watch brands in the industry. In terms of iconic models, few watch brands come anywhere near what Omega has been able to accomplish. 

In particular, the Seamaster and Speedmaster lines have become synonymous with luxury watch design and are often victims of homage timepieces taking subtle (or not so subtle) inspiration from their design. There is a point where this flattery crosses the line, and for many people, that happens with the name on the dial. 

If there is money to be made on the name of a product, there is someone illegally using that name to make a profit. There is no shortage of brands assembling watches and placing luxury brand names on the dial. These range from comically poor design and quality, to 1:1 super clones that require a very highly trained eye to determine the real from the replica. 

8 Ways to Check Omega Watch Authenticity

We are going to focus this list on the super clones. From a picture, or sale listing, they look great, but how can we separate a luxury timepiece from one of the most prestigious brands in the industry from a piece of counterfeit trash? Get your loupe out; we’re taking a deep dive into the details of this one.

Serial Number

Depending on how good your eyes are, you might not need the Loupe just yet. The first thing to look for is a serial number on your Omega watch to verify authenticity. This serial number will be 7 to 8 digits and etched into the backside of your watch’s lug.

If you purchased a watch with the box and papers, these numbers should match. Just because a timepiece has a number etched into the lugs with matching paperwork does not always mean it’s authentic. A great next step will be to perform a simple Google search with the serial number on your watch.

Counterfeiters often produce an entire run of models using the same serial number to save cost, and you will see others listed for sale. These serial numbers are unique to the watch. If you find another one, it is almost certainly, unless you’re the unlucky owner of the original serial number that has been counterfeited, not an authentic watch (this is why you should never post a picture of your serial number).

Dial Printing

One of the most challenging and often overlooked characteristics of a watch is the printing on the dial. Whether it is just the chapter ring, or also the logo and branding or specifications, crisp and straight dial printing are hard to perfect (Just ask Seiko! Only kidding…sort of).

If you take out your jeweler’s loupe and closely inspect the dial, you should see very crisp printing with even spacing and perfectly level placement. If it looks less than perfect, you should be suspicious. Any brand can make a mistake (just look at Rolex with their double 9 Rolex Explorer), but Omega is one of the absolute best regarding these details.

Date Wheel

One of the most often ignored areas, even by the counterfeiters with the highest standards, is closely related to the dial printing. Even the best dial printing counterfeiter seems to haphazardly throw a standard date wheel in their watch 99/100 times.

An authentic Omega watch is going to feature a date wheel that is perfectly aligned and spaced properly over the entire date window. Much like the printing on the dial, the replica will not look anywhere near as crisp as what you should expect to find with a genuine Omega. These details are subtle from a distance, but with the help of your jeweler’s loupe are figuratively and literally magnified.

Solid Construction

If you have ever owned or tried on an authentic Omega watch, one thing that truly stands out is just how solid the construction is. Everything is machined to such a tight tolerance, and there is no doubt that you are wearing a luxury timepiece on your wrist.

Despite having some visual similarities, most replicas really lack that same feeling of heft on the wrist.  Many of them are constructed decently, but it would be like comparing an entry-level Hamilton to an Omega. There are less precise tolerances, and the watch naturally loses some of that heft on the wrist.

There is nothing wrong with the construction of a watch like a Hamilton, but as much as enthusiasts love the brand, there would be more than a few eyebrows raised if they tried to price their timepieces in the same range as Omega, as many replicas are trying to do.

Case Finishing

Another area Omega is known to excel in is that of case finishing. Few brands can match the crisp transitions of brushed to highly polished, like Omega. Compared to an authentic Omega, a replica will have a much softer transition of brushed to polished surfaces. 

When viewed on its own, it may appear well done and crisp, but compared side to side, the differences become much more apparent. The brushed surfaces will generally have a more aggressive brushing having ever so slight brush lines that you can detect with the very scientific fingernail test. The polished surface will likely not be as uniform and reflective as what you find with an authentic example either.

Movement Design

One of the hardest areas to replicate for a counterfeiter is the engine powering the watch. Many replica watches will feature a replica ETA 2824. These movements have a very generic finish that does not match the type of finish you would find on an authentic model. 

Some higher-end counterfeiters will take things up a notch and replace the rotor with a similarly finished one. When looking through an open caseback, the movement will appear to be OK but spin the rotor out of the way, and the movement quickly reveals its secrets. 

Movement Technology

One thing that is incredibly hard, if not impossible, for counterfeiters to replicate is brand-specific movement technology, such as the Co-Axial escapement featured on most of Omega’s modern watches. Unless you are very familiar with watchmaking, I’d leave this next level of identification to a professional watchmaker. 

When opening up the watch and inspecting the movement, a trained watchmaker can quickly tell if the movement utilizes a Co-Axial escapement or just a dressed-up Swiss Lever escapement looking to play the part.

Trusted Seller

Of all of the things to look for on a watch to ensure authenticity, there is only one that is guaranteed to work. Counterfeiters are continuing to get better and better and are actively working to improve on the differences we have already pointed out on this list. 

There is one thing counterfeiters will never be able to do, though, and that is to get their watches into an authorized Omega dealer. If you purchase from a trusted authorized dealer, you are guaranteed to have an authentic timepiece. 

If your budget restricts you from purchasing brand new, take a look at their pre-owned inventory. If a watch shop is an authorized Omega dealer, you can rest assured that their preowned examples are also authentic. 

The further your seller dilutes themselves from the original Omega source, the higher the risk is for you as a buyer. This is not to say that you shouldn’t trust any seller that is not an authorized dealer, just that you need to accept the fact that extra effort is required on your part to verify the piece you are looking to purchase is genuine.

Conclusion

If you are lucky enough to be considering a new or preowned Omega watch, congratulations! You are truly going to love your new timepiece. If you’re still saving and able to delay the gratification of the “New Watch Alert” post for a little while longer, save up until you can buy from a trusted source. 

If you find a watch that seems like a good value and passes the guidelines we have presented here, spend a couple of extra dollars to have the watch authenticated by an authorized Omega dealer, preferably before you separate from your hard-earned cash.

That nominal fee will be worth every penny, whether it gives you peace of mind or prevents you from making a costly mistake. If you are browsing watches and find something that looks too good to be true, it probably is! Regardless of how cheap you are, don’t be tempted by the possibility of being able to score the deal of a lifetime due to someone else’s ignorance or need to sell something ASAP. 

In this day and age, nobody is ignorant enough to list something without first doing a google search or impatient enough to give up thousands of dollars for the sake of selling a few hours sooner (you can price a watch aggressively to sell and not necessarily give it away). 

Sometimes it’s obvious what we should avoid; other times, even seasoned collectors can end up bamboozled. If you do your research and follow these guidelines, you can ensure that you are enjoying an authentic Omega watch and greatly reduce the risk of making a costly mistake.

Happy watch hunting!

The Omega Seamaster 120 is a model that’s not discussed very often, but that’s beginning to change (right here, in fact!). While the history of the legendary Seamaster 300 is well documented, the Seamaster 120 requires a little more in-depth (pun intended) research.

Whether you’re looking for an Omega Seamaster 120 review, a chronology of the reference, or just a few photos of this beautiful timepiece, it’s not always easy to find. That’s why we decided to compile this handy buying guide to offer whatever you may be looking for all in one place.

Omega Seamaster 120 History and Defining Characteristics

The Omega Seamaster range was launched by the vaunted brand in 1957. It coincided with the simultaneous releases of the Speedmaster and Railmaster lines and marked the beginning of Omega’s foray into the world of dedicated dive watches.

The original Seamaster 300 had a depth rating of 200 meters. At the time, 200 meters of water resistance was more than enough for the casual diver, let alone the average suburbanite who was more likely to wade in the local swimming pool than the ocean.

In 1966, Omega launched the Seamaster 120, a smaller version of the Seamaster 300, with a depth rating of 60 meters. The idea behind the Seamaster 120 was to offer a more affordable version of the Seamaster to a customer base that was more likely to wear it while driving their Barracuda than diving next to one.

While, in 1966, the Seamaster 300 had a case size of 42mm, the Seamaster 120 came in at a more diminutive 37mm, making it a better fit for the office or a backyard barbecue. There was also a 31mm women-sized case available.

Aside from the case size being different than its forebearer, the Seamaster 120 also had a slightly different case shape. Omega utilized a cushion-styled tonneau-shaped case, which offered a slightly more elegant wear than the tool-styled case of the Seamaster 300.

Overall, the Seamaster 120 was a popular alternative to the Seamaster 300, which is why you can still find several vintage pieces available for sale on the secondary market. The following are the most common references and basic price ranges for the Seamaster 120.

Seamaster 120 References and Pricing

Omega Ref. 135.027

• Movement – Omega manual wind calibers 601, 611
• Power reserve – 48 hours
• Complications – N/A
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $2200 – $3200
• Dial – Black

This 17-jewel variant was the first iteration of the Seamaster 120. In comparison with later models, it may seem like a somewhat bare-bones option with a manual wind movement and no date complication. However, this is also a big part of its vintage charm.

Prices for this reference fall between $2200 – $3200

Omega Ref. 136.027

Movement – Omega manual wind caliber 613

• Power reserve – 48 hours
• Complications – Date
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $2000 – $2800
• Dial – Black

The next Seamaster 120 model for Omega saw little change in form and function, with one exception. This version included an updated movement that came with a date complication, evidenced by the three o’clock date window and white date wheel.

Prices for this reference fall between $2000 – $2800

Omega Ref. 165.027

• Movement – Omega automatic caliber 554
• Power reserve – 50 hours
• Complications – N/A
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $2200 – $3200
• Dial – Black

This reference had an upgraded automatic caliber, which also increased the power reserve by two hours to 50 hours. It also had no date function, unlike its predecessor. 

Prices for this reference fall between $3800 – $4700

Omega Ref. 166.027

• Movement – Omega caliber 565
• Power reserve – 50 hours
• Complications – Date
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $3,000 – 11,000
• Dial – Black

This model is virtually the same as the 165.027, except that it included a date window at the three o’clock position. 

Prices for this reference fall between $3500 – $4500

Omega Ref. 166.073 ST

• Movement – Omega caliber 565
• Power reserve – 50 hours
• Complications – Date
• Beat rate – 19,800 VPH
• Price range – $4300 – $9900
• Dial – Blue

This reference had the same technical specs as Ref. 166.027, although it had sharp sword hands, a bakelite bezel, and a deep blue dial and bezel color. It also had a major dial “shakeup” with the widening of the white luminescent indices and the addition of short applied stick indices on top of those.

Prices for this reference fall between $4300 – $6500

Considerations When Buying a Seamaster 120

Mechanical Considerations

Buying any vintage watch can be a nerve-wracking experience, and searching for the perfect Seamaster 120 is no different. When shopping for a vintage watch, the mechanical functioning and accuracy are of the utmost importance. Be sure to wind the movement and check that it functions properly. If the watch is mechanically solid, then ensuring it’s authentic is the next factor in making your choice.

Authenticity

Being a vintage watch, any Seamaster 120 will likely show some wear and tear unless it’s a NEW OLD STOCK model. So, make sure that the timepiece looks its age. Beyond that, there are a few things you can check for to make sure it’s authentic.

The case of the Seamaster 120 has a small notch in the case at three and six o’clock when looking at the watch from the side. The case back should also have a Seamaster engraving in the center, which is relatively shallow. The automatic case backs are slightly domed, while the manual wind versions are flat.

Buy the Seller

To avoid purchasing a less-than-authentic Seamaster 120, you should only buy from reputable sellers. Even if you purchase from an individual, asking them for references is perfectly acceptable. Be sure to verify the integrity of the seller’s claims by researching their sales history.

Service and Ownership History

You’ll also want to ask for any service history paperwork the seller may have. While many people dispose of receipts and other records of service, some keep meticulous records, which is a convenient way to verify how well the watch was cared for. Along with the service paperwork, you can also ask for a history of the watch’s ownership.

While the seller may not know the entire history of the watch, they may be able to tell you who they purchased it from and how long that owner had it. Any bit of information you can gather helps you to piece together the history of the watch, giving you a clearer picture of what you’re buying.

Where to Buy a Seamaster 120

You can find well-cared-for models of the Omega Seamaster 120 at a number of different outlets, both online and in person. While buying a vintage watch from an individual is not necessarily bad, it’s best to purchase through an online marketplace or another professional intermediary to ensure your investment is made with a reputable source.

Always do your research before buying any luxury watch. Sites like exquisitetimepieces.com (that’s us!), crownandcaliber.com, and even chrono24.com all offer a wide selection of watches and some form of guarantee to protect you when you purchase from them.

A Greatly Underappreciated Model

While the Omega Seamaster 300 is rightfully the top dog in the Omega dive watch hierarchy, the vintage Omega Seamaster 120 is a greatly underappreciated model that’s quickly gaining a cult following. So if you’re a lover of classic designs and want to buy a watch with some under-the-radar collectability, then the Seamster 120 might just be the perfect vintage pool to dip your toes into.