Author: Daniel Louwrens

Ever had your power reserve run out just as you were about to use the chronograph function? Was your quartz movement not quite enough to impress that watch dude at your business meeting? 

Well, how about the Solar watches? Better yet, how about combining the functionality of a solar watch with the utility of a dive watch? 

Solar dive watches are not for everyone, but when you start thinking about all the versatility they offer, they might be a dark horse… 

About Solar Dive Watches

As you may know, watches either come with a mechanical or quartz movement. Well, not all. There are a few that are slightly different from the rest, like the Spring Drive from Grand Seiko. However, rising above all the rest is the Solar watch. 

As the name suggests, these types of watches are powered by solar energy or by artificial light. Typically, the solar panel(s) are located behind the crystal of the watch. From there, it’s simple physics really; sunlight is absorbed by the PV cells in the panel, and the energy is converted into electrical charges that move in response to an internal electric field in the cell, causing electricity to flow.

This electricity is then transferred into a rechargeable cell to power the watch during dark times. This unique technological approach might not seem the most romantic of all the watches you could get your hands on, but it is something that is remarkably useful in actual tool watches. 

This is why you find it in dive, field, and aviation watches. These were engineered to be as practical as possible, and what’s more practical than being powered by a massive nuclear fusion reactor millions of miles away? 

The History Of Solar Dive Watches

While watches have been worn all throughout the 1900s, the first wristwatch to be powered by the sun was the Synchronar 2100, developed by an American engineer named Roger W. Riehl in 1972. The watch was quirky, and while it was visionary, it wasn’t incredibly sleek. 

The top of the watch featured two large panels while the time was digitally displayed on the side; funnily enough, this makes it a rather food driver’s watch. This was just after Seiko released the first quartz-powered watch in 1969, so the world was eager for more development. 

From there, the technology was relegated to more cost-effective wristwatches, especially those made in Japan. While some Swiss companies have made use of the tech, it’s certainly not commonplace. 

It’s unclear which watch was the first dive watch to be powered by a solar unit, but it’s likely to come from one of the Japanese giants like Seiko, Citizen, or Orient. 

Should You Buy A Solar Dive Watch?

The big question you might be asking at the end of this list is whether you need a solar dive watch or not. Before we even dive into the list, you should first ask whether or not you even want a dive watch. Dive watches are typically bulkier and larger than others, so if you only have a 5.8-inch wrist, these may not be the best option. 

If you are a person that does regular diving, this might be the perfect watch for you, even more so for those that work on ships or boats. You might not always be moving enough to wind a rotor, and your sudden movements might damage the mainspring. A solar-powered dive watch would be perfect, seeing as it can gain power from the sun, which is always available, it’s robust enough to survive the environment, and fantastic water resistance. 

That said, there are also a lot of premier watch collectors that own some of these pieces as a ‘beater’. These are watches you wear when you know you might be in a rough-and-tumble environment and you don’t want to scratch that Rainbow Daytona you just bought. 

10 Best Solar Dive Watches

1. Seiko Prospex SNE575

Seiko is one of the most well-known brands on the planet, especially when it comes to cost-effective dive watches. The Prospex range occupies part of the market for individuals looking for something slightly more robust and upmarket than the Seiko 5. Presented here is the ref. SNE575, a 38.5mm steel diver with a no-nonsense approach to utility. 

Designed to actually be used by divers, emphasized by the “PADI” writing at the 6 o’clock position because the watch is part of the ‘The Professional Association of Diving Instructors’, and the PADI writing on the watch is exclusive to Seiko. With a lug-to-lug of 46.5mm, the watch wears very true to the 38.5mm diameter, and thanks to the 10.6mm diameter, the watch has a very subtle wearing experience despite the utility. 

The dial features an engraving reminiscent of the longitude and latitude lines of the globe featuring large hour markers filled with luminescence. A solid 200m water resistance rating with a unidirectional bezel is accentuated by the solar caliber V147 which has an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month. 

2. Citizen Promaster Diver Blue Dial (ref. BN0168-06L)

While the first ‘Pepsi-colored’ dial was created with the GMT Master ref. 1675 from Rolex, many other brands have also utilized the combination of the two contrasting colors. One of those brands is Citizen, like with this ref. BN0168-06L Promaster Diver. 

The Promaster line is the robust and utilitarian line from Citizen, as presented with this 44m steel diver matched with a blue polyurethane strap. The bezel colors continue on the dial, as the blue dial is matched with a large red minute hand and equally large hour markers. If this watch could scream, it’d be screaming utility and legibility. 

A date aperture without a cyclops is located at the 4 o’clock position to double down on the practicality of the timepiece. All the functions are powered by the caliber E168, an Eco-drive movement that is Citizen’s solar-powered unit. The watch is also ISO-compliant, with a water resistance measurement of 200m. 

3. Casio MTPS110-1AV

Casio is perhaps the single most loved brand from the kid down the street rocking his G-Shock to the collector whose daily is a Paul Newman Daytona. Both will own Casios and love them for their utility and honesty. 

This ref. MTPS110-1AV down-to-earth tool watch comes in two variations, one in blue and one in black. The dial is matched with a yellow or red minute and seconds hand, respectively, and at the 3 o’clock position, you’ll find a day-date function. 

The diameter is slightly larger compared to some of the others, measuring 46.9mm. A solid 100m water resistance matched with a mineral crystal and the utility of a solar power unit makes this the perfect ‘beater’ watch, or perhaps a watch you just wear when out and about working on your yacht. 

4. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph (ref. WBP1112.FT6199)

TAG Heuer is known for making some of the better watches for their price point. The first Aquaracer was presented in 2003 and has since become a mainstay in their lineup, ranging from quartz movements to automatic versions. The ref. WBP1112.FT6199, or the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, is a solar-powered version and sports a rather stealthy appearance. 

A 40mm DLC-coated sandblasted black case is matched with a black bezel that features an insert made from carbon fused with luminous material, which massively increases legibility. The whole dial is highly legible thanks to copious amounts of lume on the hour markers and hands. 

The Solargraph caliber TH50-00 powers the watch and is based on the Citizen E168, displaying the time and the date at the 3 o’clock position on a sunray-finished black dial. 

5. Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar (ref. T121.420.47.051.00)

Tissot presents some of the best value-for-money timepieces on the Swiss market, like this T-Touch Connect Solar ref. T121.420.47.051.00. Walking a thin line between a smartwatch and a regular watch might upset a few individuals, but it does seem to walk the line rather well. 

A digital display is located on the lower half of the dial, but you still have the normal three-hand display, so, the best of both worlds. The black display is still highly legible thanks to the not-so-subtle use of red on the seconds hand and the tip of the minute hand. 

A ceramic bezel elevates both the resistance to scratches but also features the four main compass directions, which matches the utility of the ‘smart part’ of the T-Touch, which according to Tissot, includes but is not limited to an altimeter, compass, perpetual calendar, alarm, time, time zones, automatic daylight saving time, timer, chrono split, chrono lap, chrono log book, and a step counter. 

The watch measures a whopping 47.50mm in diameter, so it certainly is not for everyone, but when considering the utility of the piece, it’s to be expected. 

6. Lum-Tec Solar Marine 2

If you’re looking for a more subtle approach to the dive watch category, perhaps the Lum-Tec Solar Marine is the option for you. The watch is limited to merely 500 pieces worldwide, so it’s unlikely you’ll ever see someone else wearing one. 

Measuring at a dainty 39mm with a bead-blasted finish to improve durability. The main feature your eyes will be attracted to is the white steel insert on the bezel fixed with lume for added legibility.

The watch’s overall look is also subtle thanks to the titanium carbide gunmetal PVD hard coating on the case, creating a faded look that doesn’t draw as much attention to itself as other, more colorful divers. 

The 300m of water resistance is matched with the 6 months power reserve thanks to the solar-powered caliber VS42A, which is manufactured by Seiko. 

7. Vaer D4 Solar Diver 38mm

What about a more compact diver? The Vaer D4 features a subtle 38mm polished case matched with a brushed-finished three-link bracelet or a brown NATO strap. With a lug-to-lug measurement of only 45mm, the watch sits quite comfortably on the wrist despite the 200m of water resistance. 

The watch exudes plenty of maritime subtexts with a deep blue dial with golden lined hands and golden text at the 6 o’clock position. In fact, each highly luminous hour marker is also lined with golden effects. An anodized aluminum bezel insert featuring 120-click technology surrounds the dial in a similar blue hue.

The movement within is the Epson VS22 solar movement with an accuracy rating of -30 / +30 sec per month. The bracelet is rather special at the price point of $359 – $449. It features four micro-adjustments, solid end links, and an 18mm taper.

8. Momentum Torpedo Pro Eclipse Solar 

With a name like Torpedo, you already know what type of watch you’re about to deal with. A 44mm steel diver with 200m of water resistance thanks to a screw-down crown. The crown is located at the 4 o’clock position to avoid the “wrist-bite” we so often experience with regular crowns. 

Behind the sapphire crystal is a black dial with contrasting circular sections, the inner section being slightly transparent and the outer being glossy. Subtle pops of color are courteous of the red seconds hand and the pointer for the date aperture at 4 o’clock. The black rotating bezel features ample impressions to allow it to be easily used even when wearing gloves. 

9. Seiko Prospex Tuna “Arnie” SNJ025

Seiko is back again with something for the meathead in your life – the Seiko ref. SNJ025, nicknamed the ‘Arnie’, is a contemporary model of the famous ref. H558 worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the film The Predator. 

The aesthetics didn’t change much, and if Arnie could rock it, then you can imagine the watch being quite large. A case diameter of 47.8mm makes it a unit on the wrist and that excludes the several crowns. 

There are crowns to manage both the digital and analog display, as well as the several complications within; the power reserve display function, local time indication mode, stopwatch function, and an alarm. 

The watch is (surprise) also ISO-compliant, perhaps making it the dive watch to end all other divers. Powered by the caliber H851 with an accuracy rating of -15 / +15 sec per month. To improve the robust nature of the timepiece, a rubber outer bezel is placed around the dive bezel creating the signature look of the “Arnie”. 

10. Citizen Promaster Aqualand (ref. BN2036-14E)

Citizen is another giant in the dive watch world with legendary models like the Promaster range, as presented here with the Aqualand ref. BN2036-14E. With a water resistance rating of 200m, the watch has been awarded the ISO6425 diving certification.

The 46.1mm case is matched with a black polyurethane strap for increased sportiness and utility. The dial not only the regular hours, minutes, and seconds but also a power reserve display, depth meter, and maximum depth memory display. The movement in charge of timekeeping duties is the caliber J250, an Eco-Drive movement with a potential power reserve of 330 days. That’s a lot of diving… 

Conclusion

Dive watches are meant to help you in one of the most stressful times you can put yourself in. With the addition of a solar-powered movement, you get all the reliability and accuracy of a quartz watch with none of the battery-dying drawbacks.

A match made in heaven to be found at the depths of the ocean. Or at your desk in the office because the watch looks cool and you like the technological aspect of it – we won’t judge – as long as it makes you happy. 

Many enthusiasts regard the humble dive watch as the best first-time watch. Durable, simple, interesting enough, and when sized appropriately, it would fit most attire. That last part is often not the case with dive watches as they are designed to be used while diving, which means sustaining massive pressure while remaining legible. 

That said, many watch brands have taken the time to create and produce dive watches that are perfectly sized at 40mm. Big enough to fit contemporary tastes while still not being quite as big as an Omega PloProf or a Rolex Deepsea Challenge. Let’s look at the 15 best 40mm dive watches you can get your hands on today. 

About Dive Watches

Back before wearing a watch was a status symbol or something to impress your Tinder date with, watches were worn as tools to help mankind on our incredible journeys throughout time. The Speedmaster went to the moon, the Explorer went up the Everest, and the Big Pilot was worn by pilots in World War II. 

Dive watches played a massive role in the marine environment. When diving, you need to keep track of time. Why? If you consume Oxygen from a tank at a certain volume per hour, you can calculate how long you get to spend in the water. Thus, with the addition of a rotating bezel, you can mark your entry hour and use it as a reference to know when to get out. 

Other characteristics include a thicker and larger case, a durable crystal, a highly legible dial with plenty of luminescence, and for some, a link extension allowing the watch to be worn over a wetsuit. 

However, if you are engaged in deepsea diving, you would need an even more robust timepiece. The pressure would be increased dramatically, and you would also run into Helium buildup, hence why many “deepsea” diving watches have a Helium escape valve built into the case. 

The History Of Dive Watches

While there is a lot of debate about which company produced the first dive watch, most believe that Omega produced the first commercially available divers watch in 1932, called the ‘Marine’. Others think the first dive watch was the Submariner or the Fifty Fathoms. That said, most believe Omega was first. 

Turn back the crown (nice little pun for you) back to the early 1900s, and you’ll find that watches are worn by individuals who need to use them for their intended purpose. In the case of dive watches, they need to be able to do quite a few things. Survive the depths of the ocean while remaining legible but also usable. 

Innovation to create a watch that could survive the pressure of diving started with Rolex in 1926 when they purchased the patent for the “Oyster” watchcase, which featured a hermetic seal that allowed it to be airtight. Mercedes Gleitze attempted to swim across the English Channel wearing the new Rolex Oyster around her neck. Ten hours later and the watch was still sealed. 

Since then, the moniker of ‘dive watch’ has changed throughout the years from a robust tool to a flex piece or even a ‘desk diver’. But the origin of the watch will always be a tool to help mankind on their most extreme marine missions. 

Should You Buy A 40mm Dive Watch?

Before diving into the list of the best 40mm dive watches, we need to consider whether you should purchase one. The first thing you must consider is that it’s still a dive watch. These have particular features that you will need to deal with. 

Dive watches are typically a bit thicker than dress watches, typically made in steel (although this has begun to change), and they almost always have a rotating dive bezel. These features give the timepiece a pretty sporty aesthetic according to contemporary tastes, which won’t be so well received at your next black tie event. 

40mm is also quite well-sized compared to some of the bigger watches on the market. It will, of course, be too big for some, but quite a few companies make the same watch in various sizes. A 40mm sized case for a 15cm – 18cm (6 – 7 inches) wrist. 

Before you purchase a watch, it would always be best to try it on if you can. If you’re purchasing online, your best bet would be to try something on that has the same size and feel as your desired timepiece.

The 15 Best 40mm Dive Watches for Men

1. Rolex Submariner Date (ref. 116610LN)

Let’s not beat around the bush and start with the ubiquitous dive watch – The Submariner. Ref. 116610LN is known as one of the ‘true’ Submariners since it is the most copied and well-known watch on the planet. 

This particular reference is not the newest model the Crown offers and was in production from 2010 until 2020. The 40mm stainless case featured a unidirectional black ceramic dive bezel which Rolex calls Cerachrom; hence why the ‘LN’ is included in the reference number. “Lunette Noir” is French for ‘black bezel’. 

This was the first model to be equipped with this bezel insert and has since become a mainstay in the Rolex catalog. The black dial contains highly legible hour markers with the Mercedes hands synonymous with the brand. You will also find the date aperture located at the 3 o’clock position with a Cyclops lens as well. 

For some, this lens ruins the look of the watch, but for others, it’s needed for legibility in a dive watch. Some even joke that “If you need to know the date while diving, you’re probably screwed”. 

Of course, since the watch has been discontinued, you can only purchase it on the second-hand market. You can expect to pay anything north of $10,000 depending on the condition and what’s included.

2. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda (ref. 5008B 1130 B52A)

As far as legendary dive watches go, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is, well, legendary. The original was released in 1953, and many assume it’s the first professional dive watch ever created and was used by the French, German, and Polish military.

In 2019, Blancpain launched the new Fifty Fathoms Barakuda as a tribute to the original, with limited production of 500 pieces. While 40mm is the perfect size for most people, it is the smallest in the lineup, seeing as these were and are tool watches. 

The Barakuda does feature quite a few attributes that are extremely similar to the original. Red and cream hour-marker finished with an “old radium” type Super-LumiNova, pencil-shaped hands, and the classical diamond-shaped marker at 12 o’clock on the bezel.

To keep with the essence of a true dive watch, there is a distinct lack of Cyclops on the date aperture.  Visible through the caseback is the Blancpain caliber 1151 with a pretty robust power reserve of 100 hours, thanks to the twin-barrel architecture. If you are in the market for one, you can expect to pay north of $14,500.

3. Panerai Luminor Quaranta (ref. PAM01270)

Panerai is about as subtle as a hammer. Worn by giants like Arnie, ‘Sly’ Stallone, and the Rock, these watches are usually large and bulky but still have their own unique design language you won’t find anywhere else. The Quaranta is one of their lesser-known models, a petite by Panerai standards 40mm brushed steel case. 

The ref. PAM01270 is presented with a deep blue sun-brushed dial with a clean design, a date aperture at the 3 o’clock position, and a small seconds sub-register at the 9 o’clock position. The blue dial is matched with an alligator ‘blu profondo’ strap. 

The Luminor line has been a staple in the Panerai lineup but usually features a larger case. The Quaranta offers a better wearing experience for those who have smaller wrists but still want the cushion case shape experience offered by Panerai. 

4. TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Date (ref. WBP2111.BA0627)

TAG Heuer gets a bad wrap because they cover a segment of the market that is neither incredibly affordable but also not the epitome of horology. However, TAG does this perfectly. They are priced appropriately, and the Aquaracer line has been a great offering from the brand for those looking for a great value dive watch. 

The Professional 200 offers, surprise, 200m of water resistance thanks to a robust 40mm stainless case and features a dodecagon-shaped bezel. The deep blue dial is reminiscent of the ocean and is finished with horizontal banding meant to evoke the teak deck on a yacht. Despite the artistic finish, the dial remains extremely legible and is adorned with plenty of luminescence. 

The case is matched with a simple yet handsome three-link bracelet with a thin, tapered profile equipped with an extension link that allows for a far easier wearing experience. Inside the case is the reliable caliber 5, based on either the ETA 2824-2 or the Sellita SW200. 

5. Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18)

Oris is another cult favorite among enthusiasts and collectors and is actually one of the few independent brands left in the Swiss watch market. Whereas the Aquis is perhaps the best first luxury watch for most people, the Diver Sixty-Five is a retro-inspired diver designed and built to modern standards. 

The contemporary features continue with a wearable 40mm design but also have an old-timey domed sapphire crystal. Behind said crystal, you’ll find a simple and legible dial with yellowish hour markers and hands. A rotating dive bezel and screw-down crown solidify the dive capabilities. 

The Sixty-Five is a true enthusiast’s watch. Retro style, a modern Oris 733 caliber which is based on the SW 200-1, and you have a timepiece that’ll make you smile every time you check the time. Available in various dial configurations and priced at a reasonable $2,400. 

6. Seiko Prospex Diver SLA017J1

Seiko is known for producing some of the most legendary dive watches of all time but also some of the best value-for-money ones as well. From the SKX to this limited-edition ref. SLA017J1, a modern re-interpretation of the famous Seiko ref. 6217 diver produced in 1965. 

The ref. 6217 was actually the first dive watch Seiko ever created, so the ref. SLA017J1 has a lot to live up to. The watch features a lot of structural and technological upgrades from the original, obviously. For starters, the 39.99mm case features a better coating compared to the vintage model to improve durability and finishing. 

The diver gains an extra 50m of water resistance totaling 200m, even though we know Seikos survive way past their listed rating. Within the case beats the high-grade caliber 8L35 equipped with a 60-hour power reserve. 

The black dial has a no-nonsense approach to diving which means high legibility along with plenty of lume – even the date aperture lacks the Cyclops we see in many other divers to stay true to the original. 

7. Hamilton Khaki Navy Scuba Auto (ref. H82335131)

Hamilton is known as the first place you go if you’d like a value-for-money tool or military spec watch made to Swiss watch standards. The Khaki is one of the watches the brand is known best for, and while the Navy Scuba perhaps doesn’t garner as much attention as the rest of the lineup, it’s still a great option. 

Measuring 40mm in width and a quite thin profile of 12.95mm the timepiece has a very wearable profile. The black dial features a 24-hour dial to improve legibility and utility, and this effect is doubled down with a red top on the seconds hand. The nice thing about the Navy Scuba is that it comes in all different dial and bezel configurations, including but not limited to all black, all blue, and a combination of blue and white. 

Within the brushed steel case beats the caliber H-10 with a robust 80-hour power reserve. Priced appropriately at CHF 795, the Scuba offers a great entry-level watch for those looking to get into either the Swiss market or the massive world of dive watches. 

8. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 600

Christopher Ward is a British watchmaker that has made waves in the industry, especially in the tool and dive watch segments. The Trident has been the classic dive watch they offer, and this Mark 3 edition combines everything CW has learned over the years to produce a more robust yet usable tool. 

The 40mm light-catcher™ case, and more aggressive bevels compared to the Mk 1 and 2, give the timepiece immense dimension and appeal when considering the price south of $1000. Another upgrade featured on the Mk 3 was the addition of full lume on the ceramic bezel adding to the utility of the dive watch. 

The Trident Pro 600 offers, surprise, a rather impressive 600m water resistance rating, something we don’t typically see at this price point. The movement within is a third-party movement, the Sellita SW200-1, a Swiss automatic movement equipped with a 38-hour power reserve. 

9. Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 Compression (ref. ZO9287)

Zodiac finds its watchmaking origin in 1882, but the original Sea Wolf only started production in 1953. The original was somewhat of a legend but measured merely 34mm in size, a lot smaller than what modern tastes prefer. The modern Sea Wolf was introduced only in 2015, and the ref. ZO9287 presented here stays incredibly true to the original philosophy. 

The size has been increased to 40mm to improve water resistance and fit contemporary tastes, the former being 200m. The dial and bezel color combination creates a beautiful yet subtle contrast, from a light blue dive bezel to a deep blue dial. 

The dial features large square hour markers matched with a similar design language used on the hands, and the minute hand having a similar color to the bezel creates a nice touch. Legibility is boosted with the exceptional use of C3 Super Luminova. The movement within is the STP (Swiss Technology Production) 3-13, a movement based on the ETA 2824-2 and features a reliable 44-hour power reserve. 

10. Monta Oceanking

Monta is not a brand you hear about every day, but the Oceanking is certainly here to make a case for itself. It presents itself as a rather precise dive watch. Despite being a 40mm diver, the 49mm lug-to-lug makes it wear more like a 42mm watch. 

Behind the sapphire crystal lies the glossy black dial with a crisp white test. The “OCEANKING” scripture is finished in red, creating a nice sporty pop of color. On closer inspection, you can see that each hour marker the extra bits of detail, like how each is beveled at its tip as it meets the dial, and each is filled with a considerable amount of lume. 

This is matched with the sword hands that feature a similar finish and attention to detail, like the seconds hand that features a spear tip – something you don’t see much of. The 60-minute track dive bezel has a glossy black finish and is equipped with a 60-click system; in fact, Monta has a patent on their bezel mechanism.

11. Bremont S300 Kaimu

Bremont is a British watch company that has been at the forefront of bringing British watchmaking back to the heights it used to be. Their weapon of choice seems to revolve around tool and military-inspired watches. Where some divers have a no-nonsense approach to utility only, the Kaimu presents itself with a rather interesting story as well as matching aesthetics. 

The name Kaimu refers to Kaimu Beach in Hawaii, a beach that is unlike the norm. In early June 1990, the Kilauea volcano erupted and covered a lot of the island and beach areas with a deep black Basaltic lava. This color scheme was used on the S300 Kaimu dial and bezel. 

The inner dial is raised and features a matte-applied tapestry finish. The outer dial is actually metal and has rose gold plated applied indexes. The rehaut also has a pop of gold for added contrast displaying the minute track. Rose gold plated hands filled with Super-LumiNova complete the overall philosophy of this dive watch, having some class to go with the utility. 

A ceramic insert on the bezel, a screw-down crown allowing for 300m of water resistance, and an elegantly finished three-link bracelet. What more could you want? 

12. Seiko Prospex SPB143

From a diver that’s quite focused on aesthetics to one that is solely focused on utility, we have another Seiko Prospex, this time the ref. SPB143. Priced at $1,200, this Prospex offers great value due to its simple yet durable design. The 40.5mm brushed steel case features a ‘super hard coating’ to resist bumps and scratches when you’re in the deep. 

The screw-down crown might allow for 200m of water resistance but does not have crown guards, which does create a vintage-like silhouette. Both the dial and the unidirectional dive bezel are finished in black, the bezel being slightly darker. The grey-black dial has one function, and that is certainly legibility.

Large hour markers are filled with copious amounts of LumiBrite (luminescence), and the date aperture does not feature a cyclops, doubling down on the watch’s vintage theme. The movement within is the caliber 6R35, a workhorse automatic movement in the Seiko catalog. With a power reserve of 70 hours, what more could you ask for from a daily driver?

13. Dan Henry 1970

Dan Henry is a new company on the block eager to make vintage-inspired watches made to appeal to real enthusiasts. Take this 1970 automatic diver, for instance. Only a few companies still make a compressor-style diver, and Dan Henry hit it out of the park with this one. 

Unlike any of the other watches mentioned, the bezel on the 1970 is actually on the inside of the sapphire case and can be turned using the auxiliary crown located at the 2 o’clock position. The lower crown will be used to adjust the time. A design feature commonly used in the early days of dive watches but has given way to the ‘external’ bezel we see so often today. 

The 1970 comes in various configurations ranging from black and orange to white or even light blue. All of these can either come as a ‘date’ or ‘no date’ powered by the Seiko Caliber NH35, a self-winding movement with a 41-hour power reserve. 

Overall, the design of the 1970 is a good combination of fun and utility. The use of colors for both aesthetic and legibility purposes is done brilliantly; it’s only a shame they were limited to only 1970 pieces. 

14. Helm Komodo 03AR3 

From a watch that can almost be seen as fun to one with a much more serious approach. The Helm Komodo is named after the Komodo island, which is where the Komodo dragon resides, and boy, does this watch have a lot in common with them. 

The ISO 6425 compliant Komodo is built from steel and features a thick and large unidirectional bezel. This makes the watch’s dial a lot smaller, which could make reading the time underwater a lot easier, especially when you consider the not-so-subtle use of red on the hands.

The robust 40mm case is 15.5mm thick, which contributes to the 300m water resistance rating.  At full weight, the watch is also a hefty 215 grams, which is quite heavy considering its size. This is partly thanks to the stainless steel bezel and single-link bracelet.

However, with a standard 20mm lug width, you have a lot of freedom to exchange the bracelet for any rubber strap before your next dive. Powering this rugged diver is the tried and tested Seiko caliber NH35. It features hacking and manual winding capabilities and is equipped with a 40-hour power reserve. 

15. Zelos Swordfish 40mm Ti Salmo

Salmon dials are quite hot right now, with various higher horology brands using the color in everything from integrated sports watches to perpetual calendars. But what if you only had $429 to spend on your diver? Well, the Zelos Swordfish Ti Salmon appears to be a great option.

The ‘salmon sunburst’ dial is laid out with legibility in mind and features large hour markers filled with luminescence and equally robust and luminous hands. You’ll find a 120-click bezel with a ceramic insert on a titanium case and bracelet. Within the 40mm case beats the Seiko caliber NH35 with a power reserve of 40 hours.

The Swordfish also offers 200m of water resistance, which is certainly not the most on this list but still enough for 99.9% of the planet. With a price that low, it’s hard to beat this automatic titanium diver that has a ceramic bezel and a dial color you don’t see all that often. 

Conclusion

There is probably a diver for each and every person on the planet; if you look hard enough, of course. For most people, a 40mm would be the perfect fit. Divers are supposed to be a bit bulkier, to carry some heft, to have an “I’m here to do my job” attitude. That said, you needn’t go for a 50mm monster anymore, as any of the divers on this list can do their job and then some.

Some of them even have some style and precious metals to go along with the utility. It’s a nice touch. It makes you feel special, whether you’re 100 feet under or merely desk-diving on a Monday morning. Damn, I have a meeting in five. I could probably use my bezel to time how long it’ll take… 

The romantic gesture of an automatic watch is just that; a romantic idea that you and the machine are one, reliant on the other. Unfortunately, unlike your motor vehicle or favorite appliance, you’re not really able to tell how much life is left within the movement.

That is unless you have a Power Reserve Indicator. Some find this complication essential as it tells the wearer just how much life is left, whereas others feel this is a tad polarizing. Unnecessary, and all it does is spoil the lines of the design.

The reality is this used to be an essential part of a working man’s pocket watch, and unsurprisingly the complication has stood the test of time. Let’s look at the 15 Best Watches with a Power Reserve Indicator.

About the Power Reserve Indicator

You’ll often see that watches or calibers have a listed “power reserve”, such as the Seiko caliber NH36 which has a power reserve of 41 hours, or the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar Limited Edition IW5035-10 which has a 7-day power reserve. 

Remember, unlike a quartz watch, an automatic movement works with the power built up by the rotor (or by the manually wound crown). This energy is then stored or coiled into the mainspring and slowly released to make the watch work. 

It is often explained in relation to the little cars we played with as kids. You pull them back to wind them up and release them, and they shoot forward as the energy is released. A watch is meant to keep time, so, the energy release isn’t as aggressive as the little car.

Though, given the option, I’m sure any 4-year-old would prefer a bright red sports car over an A. Lange & Söhne. A power reserve is a display on the dial that relays to the wearer how much power reserve is left in the movement at any given time.

Originally used in the marine and railroad sectors (on pocket watches), the Swiss-French watch company Breguet created the first wristwatch with this complication, but it was merely a prototype. The first brand to offer this technology to the general public was Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1948 (obviously), with a line of watches called the Powermatic. 

What Is The Purpose of a Power Reserve Indicator in Watches?

Simply put, to tell you how much power is left! This might seem like a simple answer, but it goes a little bit deeper than that. Watches were originally worn as tools. These were tools humanity wore on our greatest missions and adventures, and they had to work. 

The Speedmaster helped put man on the moon, the Deepsea helped numerous divers, and the G-Shock has been used by more military personnel than you, or I could possibly fathom. These timepieces need to work, and part of that means it needs to have power… 

Having an idea of how much power is left can help you in many tight spaces or places. If you’re diving and your watch is about to run out of power but need it to time your dive, you best get out quickly. If you’re timing intervals as an engineer and suddenly lose your timing tool, your measurements afterward won’t be worth much. 

15 Best Watches With Power Reserve Indicators

Patek Philippe Nautilus Moon Phase (ref. 5712/1A)

The first Nautilus was launched in 1976 with the ref. 3700, and has since become one of the most sought-after watches on the planet. The ref. 5712 was launched in 2006 and elevates the steel Nautilus by integrating several popular complications, a moon phase, radial date, and a power reserve. 

The 40mm steel case houses the caliber 240 PS IRM C LU, which is equipped with a 48-hour power reserve. If you turn the watch, this movement presents itself thanks to a sapphire caseback, allowing you to view the Cotes de Geneve across the bridges and the 22K gold micro-rotor.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time Power Reserve (ref. 26120ST.OO.1220ST.01)

The original Royal Oak was designed by the legend Gerald Genta, who also designed the Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur, and various other big hitters. This Royal Oak features the same angular shape and integrated bracelet. The white tapisserie dial features various complications, such as a radial date, a second time zone with day and night indication at 6 o’clock, and a power reserve indication at 9 o’clock.

Despite the high complications, the watch remains incredibly wearable with a 39mm case. This case houses the caliber 2329/2846, which has a power reserve of 38 hours. This particular reference was discontinued in 2015. 

Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day Date (ref. 4400E/000A-B437)

Completing the Holy Trinity, we have the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Day Date, which honors the original model from 1956. A timeless case design matched with a silver dial featuring subdials that are finished with concentric circles. 

The polished 40mm case is matched with a leather strap to make a particularly useful dress watch. Complications include a day-date function and the power reserve indicator, which shows how much of the 40-hour power reserve the caliber 2475 SC/2 has. 

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down (ref. 234.026)

Perhaps one of the most iconic design languages belongs to A. Lange & Söhne as presented with the 1815 Up/Down. Finished in 18K white gold, the 39mm case has a thickness of merely 8.7mm, meaning it can slide under any cuff. 

As far as complications go, this reference may not be as inspiring as other models in the range. But, the watch still features the quintessential blued hands, Arabic numerals, and an exceptional hand-wound movement.

Caliber L051.2 offers the wearer a 72-hour power reserve which they can track courtesy of Patent No. 9349. This patent was granted to A. Lange & Söhne on 18 May 1879, allowing the Maison to indicate the power reserve on their pocket watches. 

Omega De Ville Trésor (ref. 435.53.40.22.03.001)

Omega is certainly known for its sports models, but they have an extremely well-executed dress range as well, such as the De Ville Trésor. A thin and elegant rose gold case (or Sedna^TM Gold) is matched with a blue dial and blue strap. 

The dial is relatively simple, focusing on a clean aesthetic. You’ll find a power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, indicating the power left in the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 8935. This movement is equipped with a 72-hour power reserve. 

Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

Grand Seiko is known both for exquisite finishing as well as some impressive technological advancements—the ref. SBGA211 or otherwise known as the ‘Snowflake’ embodies this duality perfectly. Released in 2017, the 41mm case is constructed from Grand Seiko’s “high intensity” titanium, an alloy stronger but significantly lighter than stainless steel.

The finish on the case is something to behold, a high gloss with Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing method done by hand. The razor hands are powered by the Spring Drive Caliber 9R65, which also indicates its power reserve on the dial. Of course, this complication is also an aesthetic event and features guilloche patterns. 

Glashütte Original PanoReserve (ref. 1-65-01-26-12-61)

Glashütte Original is a German watch company based in Glashütte – obviously. Their design language is in line with other Germanic brands and makes itself known with the PanoReserve. A 40mm polished and satin-brushed stainless steel case is matched with an asymmetrical galvanic deep blue dial. 

The dial features various sub-registers and complications, such as a time indicator, small seconds, power reserve, and a large date function. When the 42 hours of power reserve is fully loaded, the power reserve indicator will display “AUF”, which means up in German. Conversely, if your watch is running low on energy, it will display “AB”, which means down. 

Turning the case over reveals the caliber 65-01, which is expertly finished as you would expect from one of the leading Germanic manufacturers. A nice touch to the movement’s finish is the addition of blued screws, truly combining utility with art. 

Breguet Classique 5277 (ref. 5277BR/12/9V6)

Despite what the second-hand market would make you believe, Breguet is one of the most important and definitive watchmakers on the planet. The Classique 5277 lives up to this moniker by combining extraordinary finishing with technological prowess. 

A 38mm rose gold case houses the caliber 515DR, a hand-wound movement with a staggering 96-hour power reserve. On the silvered gold dial, you’ll find hand finishing matched with their namesake blued Breguet hands. The watch is also offered in a white gold case, but the rose gold gives you a greater contrast. 

Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days (ref. 405.NX.0137.LR)

Hublot is known for its avant-garde design paired with some of the most precious metals you can come by. Paired with a black leather strap, the polished and satin-finished titanium case offers extremely great contrast.

Even though the size is a hefty 45mm, thanks to the lightweight titanium the watch feels quite versatile on the wrist. But, of course, the main attraction is the dial with the tourbillon, a feature that essentially plays no role in a wristwatch other than being eye candy.

And when in the familiar case of the Big Bang, it’s quite the attraction. Behind the skeletonized dial beats the caliber HUB6016, a manually wound movement with a staggering 115 hours of power, which you can track thanks to the addition of a power reserve function on the dial. 

Blancpain Ultraplate (ref. 6606A 1127 55B)

Blancpain is the world’s oldest watch company, founded in 1735. They are known for relying heavily on their heritage diving models as they used to be up there with Submariners and Superoceans. The Ultraplate referenced here is not a dive watch but a dress piece with an elegant feel matched with a sleek dial.

The timepiece forms part of their ‘Villeret collection’, which is based on tradition and prime aesthetics. The 40mm steel case measures only 8.55mm in thickness, making it perfect for any dress cuff. The ultrathin watch houses the caliber 11C5.4, a hand-winding movement displaying a small seconds hand as well as a power reserve, which is rated at 72 hours. 

Longines Master Collection Power Reserve (ref. L2.908.4.92.6)

Longines is widely known as being one of the best value-for-money Swiss watches you can get your hand on, especially the Master Collection, where Longines displays elegance combined with high complications. The ref. L2.908.4.92.6 does just that, as it presents itself as a slightly more dressy daily watch. 

The 40mm case can be fitted with a steel bracelet or a leather strap and can come with a ‘Sunray Blue’ or ‘Silver “barleycorn”’ dial. The latter of which is matched with blued steel hands creating a beautiful contrast.

At the 6 o’clock position sits the power reserve indicator, and a date aperture is located at the 3 o’clock position. Internally, the watch is powered by the caliber L602 based on the ETA 2892. This self-winding movement is equipped with a 42-hour power reserve.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time “Sky Diving” SSA343J1

The Presage line is the dress watch line from the popular Seiko brand. Based in Japan, Seiko is more known for its sports and dive models; however, these dress watches have proven to be quite versatile. 

The ‘Sky Diving’ is the light blue version in the Presage line and offers a dial finish you will not get anywhere else at this price point. The 40.5mm case is matched with a leather strap and houses the caliber 4R57.

This caliber is automatic but has hand-winding abilities and a power reserve rated at 41 hours. The power reserve is indicated in a rather unique way that has not been seen on this list so far.

It is located within the hour markers, and the hand stems from the center, where the hour and minute hands also stem. This unique attribute perfectly fits the watch’s overall aesthetic and is a welcome change to regular power reserve indicators.

Oris Big Crown ProPilot Calibre 111 (ref. 01 111 7711 4163-Set 1 22 72FC)

Oris is one of the last independent Swiss watch companies today and is certainly not afraid to push the envelope of design and technology. The Big Crown line has been a mainstay for the last couple of years, and with the introduction of the caliber 111, the watch has been elevated to a new status.

The 44mm case features various other pilot watch characteristics, such as a highly legible dial, a large crown (as the name suggests), and various complications. The anthracite dial features a small seconds sub-register and a date aperture at 9 o’clock, something you don’t see every day. 

On the 3 o’clock position sits the power reserve indicator, which displays how much of the 10-day power reserve is left. If 10 days sound like a lot, that’s because it is. The movement features various technical anomalies, like a 1.8m (5′ 11″) mainspring, to allow for the extended power reserve. 

IWC Portuguese Automatic 7 Day Reserve (ref. IW500710)

The ‘Portuguese’ was originally developed for two Portuguese clients, and throughout its long history, the name has been changed to Portugieser. The Portugieser has remained a mainstay of the dress lineup in the IWC catalog, and this contemporary version is no different. 

The deep blue dial features three complications, a date function at the 6 o’clock position and two subregisters displaying small seconds and the power reserve. At 42.3mm, the watch stays true to being large but not quite as large as the other offerings in the IWC catalog. 

The movement powering the watch is the caliber 52010, which is part of IWC’s 52000 family. First launched in 2015, this is widely known as IWC’s 7-day automatic movements, in reference to the staggering 7-day power reserve. 

Panerai Luminor GMT 10 Days (ref. PAM00986)

To round off the extreme power reserve timepieces, we have the ref. PAM00986, a Luminor Marina, presents a beautiful deep blue dial that contrasts greatly with the classic stainless steel case. Legibility is fantastic, as you might expect from Panerai, with the use of large hands and hour markers, the former of which is filled with luminescent material. 

The 44m Panerai doesn’t just display the power reserve but also features an AM/PM indicator as well as a GMT function. This is all thanks to the caliber P.2003, which, as the name suggests, has a 10-day power reserve. The case also features the trademarked crown bridge guard, which solidifies the tool watch moniker of the watch. 

Conclusion

To some, the power reserve indicator may seem moot in this day and age. But when you think about it, isn’t the idea of an automatic watch a romantic one? If you look at it like that, a power reserve indicator is functional and has a connection to your watch. You can see time pass in more ways than one; now that’s something a smartphone won’t be able to do.