20 BEST Enamel Dial Watches [Omega, Cartier, Seiko, & More]
We at Exquisite Timepieces see hundreds of watches with exceptional dials each year. Even though we all have different preferences regarding the ones we most admire, an enamel dial is one feature that gets us hot under the collar. Created by skillful artisans, these dials feature a forgotten artistic technique that conjures mesmerizing images of serenity.
In contrast to industrially manufactured dials, enamel dials have a distinctive twist of elegance with an understated vibrant flair. They are also known to maintain their radiance forever, which heightens their aesthetic appeal.
Of all the decorative techniques bequeathed to watches (engravings, lacquering, etc.), the most laborious is enameling. Reserved for only the most exquisite metiers d’art pieces, each enamel dial is very time-consuming and can take several days to produce with a very high failure rate.
Claude-Eric, director of Donzé Cadrans, even told the New York Times that up to 75 percent of its enamel dials are abandoned due to defects. Despite the difficulties tied with the making of enamel dials, they are increasingly getting popular for all the right reasons.
Their complexity, captivating details, and magical decorations have revived an intense desire in the hearts of many collectors. From Jaquet Droz to anOrdain, read on to discover the most refined, desirable, and alluring enamel dials in the watch world.
About Enamel Dial Watches
The ancient technique of creating an enamel dial lies somewhere between art, science, and alchemy. Strongly associated with jewelry and gold since antiquity, the first records of enameling have been traced back to some Greek sculptures dated 600 – 501 BC.
The technique of enameling itself was mastered only by a handful of craftsmen. This ancient skill has been passed down over the years from master to apprentice, and much of its apprehension remains with only a small group of artisans.
As with other special skills found in the horological world, a shroud of mystery surrounds the beginnings of the use of enamel dials in watches. However, the first instances date back to the 17th century with the advent of pocket watches.
The distinct aesthetic element of each enamel dial makes them popular among watch aficionados because each one cannot be replicated synthetically. Enameling involves the application of a fine coat of ground glass to the base of the dial (often a metal disc), which is then heated to ultra-high temperatures.
During firing, a fusion between the ground-up enamel and the metal base occurs, creating a mesmerizing dial with a radiant gleam. Given the allure and elegance of enamel worked dials, they have become exceedingly desirable by collectors, even on the secondary market.
Should You Buy an Enamel Dial Watch?
Enamel making is one of the most recognizable crafts in the world of Horology, and purchasing a timepiece with an enamel dial can never be a mistake. Given the seductiveness and profound value of these dials, it is not entirely surprising that watch enthusiasts have revived an ever-increasing interest in them.
One of the reasons why watches with enamel dials are so compelling is the fact that there are zero allowances for mistakes. That said, collectors with a knack for exceptional watches that bridge the gap between haute horology and art would find these timepieces particularly spellbinding.
Apart from displaying the time legibly, enamel dial watches provide a refined accent to formal dress styles. Whether they look better in a specific work environment is subjective, but they will certainly elevate your game anytime, any day.
Grand Feu means “great fire” in French. Probably the most commonly used technique in making enamel dials, the process involves coating a metal disc with enamel and firing it up at temperatures of 800°C – 900°C. The process is repeated severally to achieve the desired texture, color (usually white, beige, or opaque), and motif.
Guilloché and Flinqué Enamel
A “Guilloché” dial involves a decorative technique where straight, curved, or broken lines are engraved into a dial to create intricate patterns. Guilloché and flinqué enamel dials feature a transparent enamel that beautifully showcases the pattern below.
Camplevé enameling technique is an ancient art mostly used in gold smithery to decorate metal items. The word ‘Champlevé’ means “raised field”, and the process requires the joint effort of an expert engraver and enamel artist. Spaces or three-dimensional cells are carved into the surface of a metal disc. An enameller then fills the cavities with vitreous enamel and fires it briefly at several hundred degrees.
Cloison means “partition” in French, so in the ”Cloisonné” method of enameling, partitions are created on the dial using a gold wire to place the enamel with utmost precision. The technique, usually used in gold jewelry, produces a polished surface with a smooth finish.
20 Best Enamel Dial Watches
Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel (Ref. 5177BB/2Y/9V6)
Inspired by the pocket watches from the brand in the 19th century, the Breguet Classique 5177 “Grand Feu” Blue Enamel watch is the ultimate dress watch of prestige. In lieu of the conventional enamel colors (white or black), the resplendent dial is dark blue, sleek, and brilliant.
The 18k white gold case measures 38mm in diameter and has a thickness of 8mm with long elegant lugs that ensures it sits a little wider than its measurement suggests.
The vitreous enamel dial is adorned with Breguet’s signature numerals, while the minute markers are star-shaped. The hour and minute hands have been finished in rhodium-plated steel and feature the usual ‘Moon Tip Watch hands’ that Breguet first introduced in the 1780s.
With the oversized silvered numerals, the conservative dress watch is given a mirthful personality that is extraordinary and second to none. An unconventionally shaped aperture displays the date at 3 o’clock without disrupting the dial’s symmetry, creating a legible and serene look.
It is powered by the sensational Calibre 777Q with 243 parts and 26 jewels that offer a power reserve of approximately 55 hours when the watch is fully wound.
Omega DeVille Trésor (ref. 4126.96.36.199.03.001)
As one would anticipate from a marque with an innovative heritage, the execution of the DeVille Trésor is first class. Launched by OMEGA in 1949, the slim Trésor line was distinguished by its notable 30mm Calibre. But with the passing decades, the brand has gotten more technologically advanced, and this stunning timepiece is an accolade for its craftsmanship.
The classic gents’ line now has watches with manual-winding Master Chronometer movements and come in stainless steel or 18K gold cases that measure 40mm in diameter. The ref. 4188.8.131.52.03.001 is particularly alluring because it features a domed blue enamel dial that gives it a refined, elegant look.
The vitreous, or Grand Feu enamel dial, has undergone an expert finishing, so it now has an avant-garde and somewhat extravagant appearance. Speaking of extravagance, the color of the date disc at 6 o’clock corresponds to that of the dial, and the hands, as well as the hour markers, have all been crafted from 18-carat white gold.
According to the brand, the logo and wording on the dial have been embellished by enamel prints through a ‘Petit Feu’ technique giving the timepiece an overall magnificent look. It is powered by the cal. 8929 with a magnetism resistance of over 15,000 Gauss and a power reserve of 72 hours.
Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010)
Introduced at Baselworld in 2017, the Patek Philippe Grand Complications (ref. 5078G-010) is a true connoisseur’s watch. Featuring complications like timing, chiming, and a perpetual calendar, the classic dress watch comes in a white gold case that measures 38mm in diameter.
With a height of 10.18mm, the timepiece is well-proportioned and will sit snugly on various medium-sized wrists. The brilliant black enamel dial with harmonious arabesque patterns is adorned with applied white gold markers that compliment the white gold case.
The firing at ultra-high temperatures has melted the enamel into a smooth consistency that is unique to this technique alone. The alluring arabesque patterns consist of a subtle contrast of matt and polished surfaces that offers a unique effect only an enamel dial can produce.
The overall quality of the dial is further illustrated by how the slender leaf-shaped hands reflect flawlessly on its surface. Discreet lozenge-shaped applied hour markers grace the face of the dial and offer excellent legibility. At the same time, a sub-dial at 6 o’clock turns pleasantly without disrupting the dial’s symmetry.
Beating at the watch’s heart at a frequency of 3 Hz is the caliber R 27 PS, a self-winding movement with 342 parts that features an exquisitely decorated mini rotor in 22K gold. Striking the hours, quarters, and minutes with a distinct tone on demand are two classic cathedral gongs.
The wearer can activate the gongs by using a slide piece at the left flank of the case. The strap is dark brown alligator leather with square scales fitted with an 18k white gold fold-over clasp.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Moon Enamel (Ref. Q1368480)
Jaeger-LeCoultre is a brand that knows how to release breathtaking timepieces. Coming in a limited edition of 100 pieces, the white gold case of the Ultra Thin Moon Enamel watch measures 39mm in diameter and is 10.04mm thick.
The classic watch with a contemporary appeal features a guilloché-enamel dial that bestows profound depth to the face of the watch. A translucent enamel has been applied over the guilloché engraving on the dial in a process known as flinqué, giving off a very stunning effect.
The guilloché sunray pattern has fine, straight lines running from the center to the peripherals of the dial. The vivid midnight blue color of the transparent enamel becomes highly pronounced and sparkles when it hits the light just right.
The attention-grabbing watch is adorned with applied hour markers that are a little thinner and elongated than those featured in other Master Ultra Thin variants. A disc of mirror-polished white gold makes the moon shine brightly at 6 o’clock against the blue starry sky.
The date is displayed neatly on a ring framing the moon phase aperture, and this ring has been delicately engraved. The dauphine-shaped hour and minute hands, in white gold, sweep against the textured background discreetly, adding radiance and style to the stunning dial.
The watch is powered by the robust Caliber 925/2. Unlike the regular Caliber 925/1 fitted into the Ultra Thin Moon collection watches, this movement now provides an impressive power reserve of 70 hours (from 43 hours). The watch comes mounted on a black alligator leather strap and has a water-resistant rating of 50 meters.
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 (ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99)
Audemars Piguet launched the Code 11.59 Bolshoi Limited Edition in November 2019 to mark the 10th anniversary of the its sponsorship of Bolshoi Theatre. The theater, which is in Moscow, is the parent organization of the world-famous Bolshoi Ballet.
The Code 11.59 featured two outstanding variants; a minute repeater and a flying tourbillon that both came with smoked enamel dials. The ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99 measures 41mm across and is 10.7mm thick but wears a little larger than the measurements suggest, thanks to the skeletonized lugs attached only to the bezel.
The compelling blue dial is a breathtaking piece of craftsmanship. The enamel dial is smoked and conjures all kinds of emotions with its dusky effect as it graduates from a solid blue hue in the center to a darker rim. A slightly denser enamel coating at the edges of the dial transitions smoothly to the black lacquered flange for the minute numerals.
Much attention has been given to the execution of the dial as very few subtle imperfections can be noticed, unlike many other enamel dials. A date display lies discreetly between 4 and 5 o’clock and has been well integrated into the dial. The applied hour markers are in white gold, while the minute track comes in enamel print.
A sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides protects the dial. The watch is powered by the caliber 4302, a high-end movement with a combination of machine and hand-applied finishes. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a power reserve of 70 hours.
Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Enamel Dial (ref. 3657.20.31)
The Broad Arrow Enamel Limited Series was first launched in 2002, commemorating Omega’s novel self-winding chronograph movement (the caliber 3303). The timepiece has nearly the same dimensions as in the original 1957 “Broad Arrow”, but a few differences can be noticed.
The prominent features are still the broad arrow hour and minute hands, asymmetric crown guards, and laser-engraved tachymeter scale. The finely executed enamel dial appears practically perfect, with no visible imperfections exhibiting an outstanding quality in its execution. Bold Arabic numerals in black grace the glossy dial, which is protected by a domed sapphire crystal.
A generous application of Super-LumiNova on the indices and hands ensures optimal legibility and makes the distinctive hands stand out in lowlight conditions. The diameter of the case is the same reasonable, yet contemporary 42mm, and it comes mounted on a black alligator strap. It is powered by the caliber 3320 and is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters.
Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde (ref. 66260-3633-55B)
Famous for inventing one of the most complicated mechanical watches (Blancpain 1735), Blancpain continues to defy easy categorization by staying loyal to its tradition of innovation. The Villeret Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minutes Rétrograde is one of such technically challenging timepieces with top-notch craftsmanship.
Launched in 2018 at Baselworld, this is the first watch from Blancpain that features a flying tourbillon, jumping hours, retrograde minutes, and an enamel dial. The timepiece measures 42mm in diameter and has a height of 11mm. The enamel dial has the brand’s figure-of-eight display that offers an almost perfect symmetry, except for the funky off-center hour window.
Despite the unconventional time display, legibility is excellent though reading the precise minute might take a while. The expensively executed glossy white look is a result of the champlevé dial. Engraving has been carried out on the discs to form the elevated borders surrounding the minute register and tourbillon aperture.
Vitreous enamel has then been filled into the recessed areas and fired in an oven. The tourbillon rings and that of the hour window have been diamond polished, and together with the glossy enamel dial, the watch has an impressively sophisticated look.
Oh, and the tourbillon looks like it’s floating since it’s delineated from the main dial, which is just breathtaking. The timepiece is powered by the robust in-house caliber 260 MR with an impressive 12-day power reserve.
Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999
Credor is a word taken from crête d’Or in French, which means “crest of gold”. Created by Seiko in 1974, the elegant dress watch line is the ethos of Japanese aesthetics and craftsmanship. The Eichi II is Seiko’s idea of minimalism with exceptional execution. Everything from the case, dial, and design has been carefully crafted by elite watchmakers nestled at Seiko’s Micro Artist Studio in Shiojiri, Japan.
The platinum case gives it a heft despite measuring just 39mm across. With a thickness of 10.3mm, the timepiece is likely to slide under a cuff but still feels solid in construction with its crocodile leather strap. The hand-made dial is emphatically devoid of adornments, but the white porcelain dial conceals a depth that is impossible to ignore.
The dial is hand-decorated and bears only heat-blued hands with tapering tips (which are strikingly elementary but also very pleasant), hour markers, and the word ‘Credor.’ The Credor Eichi II Platinum GBLT999 uses a Spring Drive movement that is water-resistant to a depth of 30 meters and has a power reserve of 60 hours.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Tourbillon Handwerkskunst (ref. 704.048)
A. Lange & Söhne is a globally renowned icon amongst the highly recognized top-shelf luxury watch manufacturers. “Handwerkskunst” is German for craftsmanship, and the collection promises timepieces with extraordinary artistry that have been crafted to perfection.
Instantly recognizable on the dial are the off-centered subsidiary seconds dial, a big date window, a power reserve indicator, and an impressive view of the one-minute tourbillon. The tourbillon, nestled at the base of the 38.5mm watch at 5 o’clock, might take the spotlight, but the dial is magnificent in its simplicity.
The glossy black dial is a champlevé dial, which, as explained earlier, has first been carved out to fashion the indices and texts before being filled with vitreous enamel. Afterward, it is fired at about 800°C and polished.
The enamel dial has a striking appearance with floral engravings and a polished appearance that reflects the light just right as you move your wrist around. The hands of the watch and date surround are in white gold, and the enamel has been laid on a white gold disc (as against the general copper disc used for dials).
Overall, the dial is superbly finished and will retain its quality for decades. Beating at a rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour is the in-house caliber L961.3 with 378 parts and a power reserve of 72 hours.
H. Moser & Cie Heritage Tourbillon (ref. 8804-0200)
The Heritage Tourbillon from H. Moser & Cie pays tribute to the brand’s historic watches, which were technically challenging with superb craftsmanship. Expert hands that range from guilloché workers to enamellers have come together to produce this no-nonsense timepiece with an elegant display.
The 18kt white gold case is fully polished and measures a wearable 42mm by 12.2mm. The round shape of the case is reminiscent of vintage wristwatches and pocket watch features such as wire lugs and a railroad minute track give the timepiece a cool vintage look without compromising its graphics and contemporary aesthetics.
The Grand Feu enamel dial is executed almost perfectly and looks sophisticated yet understated. The dial features a noticeable thinness that takes expertise to achieve, as many of such dials crack in the production process. It is smooth, glossy, and rich in texture with long-lasting quality and is adorned with large Roman numerals and flame-blued swallowtail hands.
The overall design of the enamel dial is charming, original, and straightforward. The watch is powered by the in-house HMC 804 automatic caliber, which is visible through the sapphire case-back.
anOrdain Model 2
Though a small Scottish brand, anOrdain has gained a reputation for producing understated watches with quintessential elegance. The brand established itself as a guru in manufacturing enameled dials when it released the first batch in 2018 (Model 1).
The Model 2 might be a small watch by modern standards (at 36mm in diameter and 11mm in height), but it wears slightly larger than its measurement suggests. The enamel dials come in six different colors, which are all eye-catching with profound depths. They include; Moss Green, Grey, Torr Blue, White, Purple, and Midnight Blue.
Complementing the clean dial are printed Arabic numerals. The numerals have been used only for the even numbers while matching baton markers are used for the odd numbers, and they are surrounded by a minute track.
The words “Vitreous Enamel” have been written on the 12 and 6 o’clock position, and skeletonized hour and minute hands, which are syringe-tipped, adorn the bland face of the dial. Providing a power reserve of 42 hours is the ubiquitous Sellita SW-210-1. It is water-resistant to a depth of 50 meters.
Nomos Glashütte Ludwig 38 Enamel White (ref. 236)
Nomos Glashütte launched two watches in 2020 to celebrate the 175th anniversary of the brand’s watchmaking practice in Glashütte: the Ludwig 38mm white enamel dial and the Ludwig 33mm white dial. Both cases were crafted from polished stainless steel and feature a tripartite construction with thin, elongated, sloping lugs and polished surfaces highlighting the classic design.
Although it’s not technically a vitreous enamel dial, the result of the artistry carried out on the dial is identical to that of vitreous enamel dials (hence the name). High-gloss lacquer has been used to coat the dial in several layers, and each layer has been polished before the next is applied, resulting in a breathtaking refined look with the aesthetics of a white enamel-like finish.
The dial does not glitter, but it does shine from certain angles. If viewed from the top, straight on, it displays a certain depth that cannot be replicated easily with other materials. When viewed from the sides, the glossy surface shines brilliantly depending on exposure to light. Narrow Roman numerals with railroad minute markers give the watch a vintage look, while thermally blued needle-thin hands add contemporary elegance.
The timepiece has a recessed second sub-dial at 6 o’clock and is powered by the in-house manufactured caliber, the Alpha, a hand-wound movement that offers 43 hours of power reserve. It is splashproof (30 meters water resistance rating) and comes mounted on a horween genuine shell cordovan brown strap.
Seiko Presage Enamel Dial SPB047J1
The Presage collection from Seiko has captivated watch enthusiasts since 2016, when it became available globally. The watch line boosts elegant timepieces inspired by the brand’s tradition-steeped classic pieces powered by in-house mechanical movements.
Seiko pays special attention to the design of the dials in this collection, as most of them are crafted in striking Urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, enamel, etc. Coming on a black Crocodile leather strap with a three-fold clasp, the SPB047J1 is one of the most beautiful pieces in the range. Since vintage inspiration is a paramount feature of the collection, the watch is styled in line with the design of the first Seiko Laurel timepiece from 1913.
The hand-made white enamel dial features a warm and soft sheen with elegant deep blue hands and classical Roman indexes. Many of the enamel dials in the Presage collection feature his craftsmanship, and all pay tribute to the ancestral savoir-faire techniques of the brand.
Though the dial is not 100% faultless because of manual interventions, the handmade glossy look of the polished surface gives it a depth and texture that differentiates it from other standard painted/treated dials.
The SPB047J1 is a pretty formal timepiece with a steel case that measures 40.5mm across, a thickness of 12.4mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47.8mm. It is powered by the Calibre 6R25, a mid-range, in-house automatic movement by Seiko with a stop second-hand function, date display, and 23 jewels.
Cartier Ballon Bleu de Cartier 39 Flying Tourbillon (ref. W6920105)
Presented with a brilliant blue flinqué enamel dial, the Ballon Bleu de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is a nod to the brand’s flair for sophisticated-looking watches. The Ballon Bleu collection, which was launched in 2007, has grown to enchant lovers of exquisite timepieces, making it one of Cartier’s all-time bestsellers.
The flinqué enamel dial here is different in that it combines two ancient dial-making techniques; guilloché and enameling. The metal disc for the base has first been patterned with guilloche and then coated with colored enamel.
Through high-temperature firing, the enamel covering becomes fixated with the metallic dial underneath, and the arduous process is repeated severally to obtain a glossy, brilliant color. Afterward, the dial is polished to offer a rich appearance and depth.
The satin-brushed cartouche dial is almost bare, except for its sword-shaped hands in steel and Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. Providing 60 hours of power reserve is the robust caliber 9452 MC, a mechanical manual winding movement with 142 parts. It is fitted on a dark blue alligator leather strap.
Louis Erard Excellence Émail Grand Feu II (ref. 34238AA54.BVA95)
Louis Erard is a respected brand known for its affordable luxury watches. The Émail Grand Feu II is the second model from the brand that features a radiant Grand Feu enamel dial. Following Louis Erard’s grand tradition of métiers d’art, the timepiece is a beautiful mix of traditional and contemporary aesthetics.
The vitreous enamel dial is rendered in pristine white with lively blue indications that pleasantly contrast the effusive purity of the façade. Certain purists will be delighted to know that the radiance of the enamel dial is perpetual and the color is fixed permanently. Also, the multiple layers of enamel powder, which have been fused to the thin metal disc, are forever bonded to it.
The handcrafted dial features applied Roman numerals and some long slender markers with a subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. The brand’s Fir Tree hands have been blued so that they sit prominently against the serene enamel, while a striking red Roman numeral at 12 adds a fine touch of animation to the dial.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Sellita SW261-1 self-winding movement that provides a power reserve of 38 hours. The watch measures 38mm in diameter and has a height of 12.25mm. It comes on a red-grained calfskin strap with bright blue stitches at each lug, creating an elegant ensemble.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon (ref. 730.079)
A. Lange & Sohne is a brand highly respected for its horological exactitude, and the classic 1815 Tourbillon is an allusion to the ingenious technicality of the brand. The design is inspired by vintage pocket watches, so it is conservatively styled but stands out from the timepieces in A. Lange & Söhne’s catalog due to its stark white enamel dial with a vivid red “12”.
The diminutive 38mm platinum case has been polished on all sides save for some sections of the case back and the caseband, giving the watch a radiant gleam. The grand-feu dial has a brilliant white color with a glossy surface. According to the brand, it has taken about 30 manual processes to craft each dial, which just points to the series of painstaking actions often repeated numerous times to produce this flawless surface.
The glossy white dial is adorned with the radiant blue lance-shaped hands, the A. Lange & Söhne’s curved logo, bold black Arabic numerals, and a chemin-de-fer. Overall, no concession to expedience is observed in any detail. The watch features several patented devices and is powered by the hand-wound Calibre L102.1, which can store up to 72 hours of energy.
Chopard L.U.C Quattro Spirit 25 (ref. 161977-5001)
Presented in a 40mm x 10.3mm satin-brushed and polished 18K rose gold case, the Quattro Spirit 25 is Chopard’s first jumping-hour timepiece. The white grand feu enamel dial is strongly legible with an impressive quality that adds to the timepiece’s appeal.
Produced in-house by Chopard’s artisans, the beauty of the enamel dial is enchanting and won’t diminish with the onset of the years. A rose gold disc has been used as the base underneath, and successive layers of vitreous enamel have been carefully applied and fired at high temperatures to attain a glossy surface that beams beautifully when viewed from the top.
At the base of the dial (6 o’clock), we find the jumping-hour aperture with a black Arabic numeral against a white disc that ‘jumps’ when the minute hand strikes 60. The display is framed with a mesmerizing rose gold bolder that instantly attracts the wearer to the prevailing hour, located subtly within the main dial.
The “L.U.CHOPARD” logo is located beneath the 60-minute mark, railway track, and Arabic numerals indicating the minutes have been produced by black enamel, while a gilded Dauphine hand is used to indicate the minutes.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the Calibre LUC 98.06-L. A hand-wound movement with 240 components, including 42 jewels, provides an impressive power reserve of 192 hours.
Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture (ref. 3203-136-2/E3)
Showcasing the precious art of enameling in all its grandeur is the Classico Manufacture from Ulysse Nardin. The dial is created by Donzé Cadrans, a subsidiary of the brand with talented designers who are specialists in enameling. The dress watch is a perfect blend of elegance and style and is presented in a classic stainless-steel case that measures 40 mm across.
The blue grand feu enamel dial is breathtaking, and the designers have tried to keep it as understated as possible. The dial, made by applying vitreous enamel over a guilloché base and repeatedly firing at ultra-high temperatures, has a uniqueness that cannot be synthetically replicated.
The blue hue and patterns are altered depending on how the light hits the dial, and the legibility is excellent thanks to its luminous hands and hour markers. Embossed Roman indicators are used to mark 3, 9, and 12 o’clock, while embossed bars are used to mark the other hours.
An in-laid sub-dial at 6 o’clock is excellently designed and displays the seconds. It also shows the date through a round aperture, indicative of the nautical heritage. Powering the watch is the self-winding UN-320 caliber, an in-house movement by Ulysse Nardin. The balance has a frequency of 28,800 vph and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. It is fitted to a blue alligator strap and is water resistant to 30 meters.
Moritz Grossmann Atum Enamel White Gold (ref. MG-000807)
Moritz Grossmann is a watch manufacturer known to produce some of the world’s most exquisite timepieces, and what we have here is a true paragon of exclusive watchmaking.
Standing out with impeccable graphics and noble minimalism, the Atum Enamel can easily be described as functional and clean with its classic round case that has been fashioned out of rose gold.
The watch measures a fitting 41mm across and is 11.65mm high. The timepiece’s overall design is vintage-inspired but enlivened by contemporary styling patterns and nuances. The glossy surface of the dial is perhaps a bit too stark, but it has a charming vibrancy that cannot be imitated by lacquering methods.
Narrow Roman numerals in black provide excellent contrast and legibility against the gleaming white surface, while the vivid blue numeral at 12 o’clock proffers a stylish touch of animation to it. At the base, a subtle small seconds counter for the seconds has been slightly sunken and takes the position of the 6 o’clock index without disrupting the symmetry of the dial.
Three traditionally styled Lancette hands, made of steel, sweep across the face of the dial, and all have been polished so brightly that they stand out sharply against the peaceful beauty of the enamel. The watch is powered by Moritz Grossmann’s caliber 100.1, which beats at a rate of 18,000 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 42 hours when fully wound.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel (ref. J013013200)
Jaquet Droz is a brand that has gained popularity by crafting iconic timepieces that can easily be aligned with works of art. The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Tourbillon Ivory Enamel is particularly spellbinding with classic good looks and typical Jaquet Droz quality. The 18K red gold case measures 39mm in diameter, a suitable size relative to the movement it houses, and wide enough to offer the watch a notable presence on the wrist without being enormous.
The look is familiar and quite noticeable is the distinctive lucky number 8, which has become a recurring theme for the brand. This time, however, it is presented on a gorgeous expanse of soft-spoken ivory enamel. As expected from a marquee with the outstanding heritage of Jaquet Droz, the execution of the white ivory enamel is first class.
The superb ivory enamel dial, which is more complicated to create than it looks, has a factory-fresh appearance with a warm, brilliant white color that will not age over time. The phenomenal dial is adorned with 18K red gold hours and minutes hands, blued steel seconds hand, and a beautiful tourbillon that reveals a palpable degree of luxury.
Inside, the Grande Seconde Tourbillon beats the in-house Jaquet Droz 25JD, an impressively constructed self-winding movement with detailed hand-finishing that offers a power reserve of about 7 days. Overall the timepiece is a true paragon of exclusive fine watchmaking and is fitted to a hand-made black alligator leather strap.
The making of an enamel dial is a labor of love with a million heartbreaks. This is why watches with enamel dials would remain the most prestigious among all others.
I’m of the mind that if you can purchase something as haute horological as a timepiece with an impressive enamel dial, by all means, do. Not only do they epitomize continued respect for the ancient craft, but they are also ageless and have great long-term collectible potential.