Author: Benedetto Youssef

Grand Seiko, the pride of Japan, is often heralded as horologically innovative—in part due to their incredible Spring Drive movements—and, of course, for their utter dedication to putting out timepieces with finishing that surpasses watches costing two to three times as much. 

The SBGR325 is not powered by Spring Drive; it actually has a mechanical movement! And let’s just get this out of the way: the dial is incredible, the finishing is incredible, the watch IS incredible. I have lusted over a Grand Seiko for some time, and in considering which piece might be best, the SBGR325 quickly rose to the top of my list.

History

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. In 2023, Grand Seiko marked the 25th anniversary of its game-changing caliber 9S with special edition watches from the Heritage collection. These models feature dials that take inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. 

Paying tribute to the first-ever GS watch that sported the in-house 9S mechanical movement, designed by Nobuhiro Kosugi back in 1998, the Grand Seiko SBGR325 comes in the same sleek case design with a compact 37mm diameter. Oh, and they’re super exclusive—only 1,200 pieces will be made!

Case 

“I like them a lot—they are just too big for me.” I’m sure many who work at a Grand Seiko boutique have heard these words before. I am sure many of you who are familiar with the watch enthusiast community have either heard or said a similar phrase, too. But things are quickly changing over at Grand Seiko and throughout the watch industry. 

Maisons are listening, whether it be through social media, the algorithm, or just word of mouth. Alterations to models are happening at a faster pace than ever before, and if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. They want to build what the people want, and in doing so, they’ll sell more watches. Sound logic.

The SBGR325 features a 37mm case diameter and a thickness of 13.3mm. Don’t raise a brow at the watch’s 13.3mm thickness; this is in part due to the beautiful domed sapphire crystal. On my 6.5-inch wrist, this watch felt amazing. 

I’d been looking at the SBGA415, which is also part of Grand Seiko’s Heritage collection but with a slightly larger case diameter of 40mm. I know 3mm is a small number, but I really did feel a night-and-day difference in trying on both watches at the same boutique. It just fits me better, plain and simple. If you have small to medium-sized wrists, this watch is the Grand Seiko for you. 

The finishing on the case alternates between Zaratsu polished and brushed surfaces, and the conical bezel is fully polished. See-through caseback gives a glimpse into the beautiful 9S65 movement with a custom titanium blue rotor. Finally, a fluted crown makes for easy winding and time adjustment. All in all, this is a beautiful package!

Dial 

True artistry is inspired, and Grand Seiko has never kept a secret about where it draws inspiration: from the beautiful nature surrounding its two studios—one in Iwate, the other in Shinshu. The SBGR325 takes inspiration from the shifting skies over Mount Iwate. This offers a breathtaking sky-blue, some might even call it an on-trend Tiffany blue that you have to see in person to fully appreciate. The rendered images and even the high-quality photography fail to do this timepiece justice! 

The applied GS logo in gold offers a wonderful contrast, and the heat-treated second hand gracefully floats around the dial. Some watch aficionados decry Grand Seiko’s insistence on destroying dial symmetry with power reserve indicators (which I actually love, but that’s neither here nor there), and they will be happy to see that such an indicator has not been included on this watch. They may, however, scoff at the date window, which is not color-matched, nor does it do anything to help the symmetry of the watch.

Movement 

The 9S65 in-house automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances (+5/-3 seconds per day). 

The new 9S65 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This new design allows for higher accuracy over longer periods of time while offering superior shock and friction resistance. Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. 

The Grand Seiko SBGR325 has an exhibition sapphire case back, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. When I first held the watch in hand, I was mesmerized by the finishing—and also by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial, almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps 

We’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine-adjustment. The SBGR325 bracelet is a standard, stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, which means it is “good enough.” 

Some argue, and rightfully so, that where Grand Seiko excels in finishing, movement technology, and dial, they fall short on their bracelets. The SBGR325 felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. 

The 20mm lug width offers the wearer ease in finding alternative straps, and the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes. So the bracelet is not the SBGR325’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience 

Sublime. If I could just write one word for the on-wrist experience of the SBGR325 and leave it at that, the word would be sublime. Yes, watches are trending a bit smaller these days, but I’ve always been perfectly happy with the prospect of a 40mm Grand Seiko. But then I tried on this 37mm watch, and I fell in love. 

I wasn’t constantly rearranging the watch, and I wasn’t aware that it was even on my wrist. And then I’d look down, and there it was, its distinct dial reminding me that the sky’s the limit, that artistry, and craftsmanship are something to be celebrated and passed down from generation to generation, that good things do come in small packages. 

The SBGR325 offers classic wristwatch dimensions with a playful and meditative splash of color. Here’s a watch that you can effortlessly wear with formal attire. It would also go with a pair of shorts and a T-shirt for grilling and chilling on a Saturday afternoon with friends. The salesman who helped me with the watch was smiling because he knew that I had found a keeper. 

He told me that customers have been raving about the on-wrist experience and that this model was an extremely popular release. Unfortunately, I kept the plastic safe in my wallet, my wife’s voice echoing in my head, “No more watches.” I don’t know how long I can go without, but the SBGR325 is now at the top of my Grand Seiko wishlist! 

Price & Availability 

The SBGR325 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $5,300. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SBGR325, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. At Exquisite Timepieces, we’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. 

As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or on various watch forums, but with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion 

You’ve been meaning to scratch that Grand Seiko itch—I mean, who hasn’t? And if you are reading this article and have yet to step into a boutique, do yourself a favor. Go have your mind blown by watches that rival the finest this industry has to offer, oftentimes at a fraction of the premium. 

I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: Pictures do not do these watches justice. They simply have to be felt on the wrist. Their dials beg for a closer, almost meditative inspection. And the light-play—gosh. You can’t fully appreciate the artistry that goes into Zaratsu polishing unless you’ve seen the light-play in person.

All in all, Grand Seiko continues to impress with their release of the SBGR325. Sure, their bracelet is in sore need of an upgrade, and a color-matching date wheel would have been nice, but overall this is a watch with timeless sizing, profound artistry, and state-of-the-art technology. You simply can’t go wrong.

Apple Watch Generations

If you’re a watch aficionado—which by reading this blog, I am assuming you are—you probably scan the wrists of people passing you by, maybe without even realizing you are doing it. You may see a Timex or a Casio, maybe an occasional Rolex or two, but chances are that the vast majority of wrists have Apple watches on. 

It’s crazy to think that what began as a quirky wrist computer has transformed the world as we know it. The Apple Watch is, in essence, a continuation of Steve Jobs’ vision: to make personal computers accessible and present. 

First released in 2015, Apple has released numerous models of its watch over the years, each bringing new and exciting technology to the wearer. If you’re an Apple Watch enthusiast, or someone interested in dipping their toes into the ocean of smartwatches, this guide is for you. So strap in (pun intended), and let’s learn about the history of Apple Watches!

History of the Apple Watch

On September 9, 2014, CEO Tim Cook first introduced the Apple Watch. I remember hearing grumblings at the time: “Oh, Steve Jobs would have never allowed such a stale and boring release,” and “Oh, Apple is just trying to grab money.” 

I wasn’t as critical or skeptical at the time because I was already deeply into my hobby of wristwatches, and I knew the allure of technology. The watch was finally released in 2015, and it was a major success. 

Apple wanted to create a device that would blend seamlessly into users’ lives, offering superior functionality while maintaining Apple’s sleek and modern design language. They succeeded! Also known as the Series 0, the original Apple Watch set the stage for what would become one of the most influential tech releases of all time.

List of Apple Watch Generations

Now, let’s dive into the specifics of each generation, complete with release dates. We’ll cover what made each model stand out and how they evolved over time.

Original Apple Watch (Series 0)

Release Date: April 24, 2015

The Original Apple Watch was revolutionary. No, it wasn’t the first smartwatch to ever be released, but it was the first “complete product.” 

It wasn’t clunky or slow like other smartwatches of the time; it offered a blend of functionality and style, featuring a square Retina display, a Digital Crown for navigation, and was available in three models: Apple Watch, Apple Watch Sport, and Apple Watch Edition. While it wasn’t perfect—performance was a bit sluggish, and battery life left something to be desired—it laid the foundation for what was to come. 

Apple’s release, as they tend to do with all things technology, laid the groundwork for new design language within the segment. Not to sound repetitive, but the original Apple Watch was truly revolutionary!

Apple Watch Series 1

Release Date: September 16, 2016

Released alongside the Series 2, the Series 1 was essentially a refined version of the original. It featured a faster dual-core processor, making it significantly more responsive. However, it lacked the GPS and water resistance features that came with the Series 2. It was an excellent entry-level option for those new to the Apple Watch ecosystem.

Apple Watch Series 2

Release Date: September 16, 2016

The Series 2 was a significant leap in smartwatch technology. It introduced water resistance (up to 50 meters), a built-in GPS, and a brighter display, making this model ideal for outdoor activities such as hiking, skiing, and camping. The new S2 chip, released with the Apple Watch Series 2, was both faster and more efficient than the previous hardware. 

This Apple Watch Series 2 truly began to push the boundaries of what a smartwatch could do, especially for fitness enthusiasts. The Apple Watch Series 2 was actually the first Apple Watch I’d ever tried, and at the time, I remember wondering if this was the end for traditional wristwatches. Thankfully, I was wrong, but there can be no doubt that the rippling impacts of Apple’s watch have been felt across the watch industry.

Apple Watch Series 3

Release Date: September 22, 2017

“Without my phone, I can’t receive phone calls, text, or check my email on my Apple Watch?” It was inevitable that Apple would bring cellular capabilities to the Apple Watch, and they did just this with the release of the Apple Watch Series 3. 

I can’t stress how much of a game-changer this was. Now you could work out and leave your clunky phone behind, all while maintaining the ability to make calls, send texts, and stream music directly from your watch (no iPhone needed). It also featured an upgraded S3 processor, which made everything run smoother. 

The introduction of the altimeter was a bonus for those who love tracking elevation during workouts. I myself am a big snowboarder, and I love being able to track data, elevation, and spent calories. I didn’t have an Apple Watch yet, but I remember being extremely jealous of my ski and snowboard buddies who did. 

Apple Watch Series 4

Release Date: September 21, 2018

What happens when you are expected to release a new version of a popular piece of hardware each and every year? Well, people get bored and are less inclined to spend hundreds of dollars when their own devices work just fine. But somehow, Apple managed to make their new product—the Apple Watch Series 4—desirable. 

First, they make it sexier, sleeker, and easier to look at. The major redesign featured a larger display with thinner bezels. Then, they include life-saving technology through the ECG app, which could detect irregular heart rhythms, and fall detection, which could notify emergency services if you took a hard fall. It was a significant leap in both design and health monitoring capabilities. Since the release of the ECG app, Apple has been credited with saving hundreds of lives.

Apple Watch Series 5

Release Date: September 20, 2019

The Apple Watch Series 5 continued to improve on its Retina display by offering always-on technology, something that users have been clamoring for everywhere. Heck, if you think about it, who would want a watch that wasn’t on when you needed it to be? They managed to do this without negatively impacting performance or battery life. 

Additionally, continuing the trend of creating products that would be useful for adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts, this version of Apple’s watch included a built-in compass and expanded storage. 

The Apple Watch Series 5 was my first Apple Watch, and I only recently updated to the Series 9. I spent over four years wearing this watch, predominantly for snowboarding, and I have to admit, today, I feel naked on the mountain without my Apple watch.

Apple Watch Series 6

Release Date: September 18, 2020

Apple continued the trend of health consciousness, possibly in response to the COVID-19 pandemic, by including a new blood oxygen sensor with the Apple Watch Series 6. The release also saw a new and faster S6 chip, along with improvements to the always-on display. 

Apple made additional customization options available by offering new colorways, along with a variety of new bands. Want a black watch with a camo-patterned nylon strap? Sure, get the new Apple Watch. The 2020 release by Apple exhibited a continued dedication to the individual user, along with improving upon what made these smartwatches so great to begin with.

Apple Watch SE (1st Generation)

Release Date: September 18, 2020

The Apple Watch SE was a more affordable option. It touted the same design as the Series 4 but lacked the always-on display and some of the health monitoring functionality such as the electrocardiogram (ECG) and oxygen sensor. 

Moreover, it came without the fast charging capabilities of the Series 6. Some people just wanted an Apple Watch to track their steps, check some emails or texts on the go, and as a fashion accessory. This was the perfect model for someone looking for a solid smartwatch on a budget!

Apple Watch Series 7

Release Date: October 15, 2021

While not featuring a new design, the Apple Watch Series 7 had a larger display—with 20% more real estate—that featured a durable and crack-resistant crystal. At the time, they boasted that this was the most durable Apple Watch ever released. 

It was also the first Apple Watch to have an IP6X certification for resistance to dust and maintain 50 meters of water resistance. Though the internal specs were similar to the Series 6, the display was the highlight, providing a more immersive experience.

Apple Watch Series 8

Release Date: September 16, 2022

The series 8 continued to offer new health monitoring functionality, implementing a temperature sensor that was particularly useful for tracking menstrual cycles and fertility. It also featured crash detection, a potentially life-saving feature that could detect car accidents and notify emergency services. To date, this has been credited with saving many lives! 

The S8 chip offered improved performance and efficiency, making it a well-rounded upgrade. One of the features of this release was that it offered a low-power mode, enabling the watch to have 36 hours of battery life! While the watch wasn’t radically new, it did continue to build on Apple’s successful formula.

Apple Watch SE (2nd Generation)

Release Date: September 16, 2022

The 2nd generation Apple Watch SE provided an even more affordable entry point into the Apple Watch ecosystem. This time around, Apple chose to not throttle its cost-conscious smartwatch with an older chip. 

They used the same S8 chip as the Series 8 but with less functionality and hardware. It lacked the Always-On display and most of the advanced healthcare features, such as the blood oxygen sensor, ECG, and temperature sensor. The watch still offered loads of functionality for around half the price of the Series 8! 

Apple Watch Ultra (1st Generation)

Release Date: September 23, 2022

The Apple Watch Ultra was a new release, and came as a surprise to me and many watch enthusiasts. Here was a smartwatch designed specifically for extreme sports and outdoor enthusiasts. 

Its rugged design was larger, more durable, and with an extended battery life. It also had special features like a depth gauge (for underwater diving) and a new, customizable, Action button, which allowed for users to customize which activity and fitness apps were a quick click away. 

That said, the Apple Watch Ultra only came in a large 49mm configuration, which doesn’t necessarily work well with smaller to medium-sized wrists; this is why I sprang for the Series 9 when upgrading my Series 5. I remember wishing I had larger wrists, because I really like the Apple Watch Ultra.

Apple Watch Series 9

Release Date: September 12, 2023

The Series 9 brought even more advanced health and fitness features, including improved sleep tracking and a more accurate heart rate monitor. The display was brighter than ever, and the new S9 chip offered the best performance yet. It continued to build on Apple’s commitment to health and wellness. 

I continue to wear my Series 9 for snowboarding, and I must admit that I have struggled with insomnia for most of my adult life. I wear the Series 9 to bed every night, and I find that the sleep tracking is actually helpful for me and trying to iron out my difficult sleep habits. As of my writing this, I still do have my Series 9, and it continues to serve me well, both on and off the slopes.

Apple Watch Ultra (2nd Generation)

Release Date: September 12, 2023

The 2nd generation Apple Watch Ultra refined the concept of a rugged, adventure-focused smartwatch. It included additional environmental sensors, improved satellite communication features, and even better durability. It was the go-to choice for those who needed a smartwatch that could withstand the harshest conditions.

Apple Watch Generations You Can Buy Today

As of today, there are a variety of new models available directly from Apple, including the Apple Watch Series 8, Series 9, 2nd Generation SE, and Apple Watch Ultra (both generations). Older models have been discontinued, but a quick Google search will show you that they are available second-hand or refurbished. If you are a “latest and greatest” chaser, then take a closer look at the Series 9 or Ultra.

Conclusion

When I think of the great “movers” within the watch industry, I think of brands like Seiko and Rolex. Brands that have a lasting impression, who have changed the industry, who mold and shape contemporary conversations around fashion. 

I never thought, not in a million years, that I would be mentioning Apple as one of the greatest industry shakers, but indeed they are! There can be no doubt that the Apple Watch has impacted the Swiss watch industry profoundly, maybe even more so than the invention of the quartz watch. 

In 2023, the Swiss watch industry sold approximately 15.8 million units​. During the same year, Apple sold around 38 million Apple Watches​. This comparison highlights a notable trend: Apple Watches outsold Swiss watches by more than double. 

The strong performance of Apple in the smartwatch market reflects its appeal and the growing consumer interest in wearable technology. And, as you can see, Apple continues to improve on their proven design, offering unparalleled connectivity, healthcare functionality, and fitness tracking. Steve Jobs would be proud, no doubt!

You’ve seen it before: a green backdrop, the iconic crown, the gold embossed lettering. Rolex is arguably the most recognizable brand in the world. Unfortunately, such notoriety and success come with its downsides. 

And though they say imitation is the greatest form of flattery, nobody wants to spend many thousands of dollars on a watch only to later find out—or perhaps they never will—that they were duped into buying a fake. 

And yet, in my relatively short time as a watch enthusiast, I’ve spotted more fake Rolexes than I’d care to admit. But here at Exquisite Timepieces, we are in the business of not only selling watches but of protecting our customers. We care about preserving the industry from the duplicitous sellers that have spread across the industry like a virus. 

So sit tight, grab your favorite drink, and let’s discuss the surefire ways to spot a fake Rolex.

Why There Are So Many Fake Rolex Watches

There is no way to accurately quantify the amount of fake Rolex watches in the wild. Even the most conservative of estimations claim that for every genuine Rolex, there are between 10 and 20 counterfeit ones. With Rolex making about 1 million watches per year, there are likely hundreds of millions of fake Rolex watches in the world. 

So yeah—I don’t need to tell you that there are a lot of fake Rolexes. If you take a walk through Chinatown in NYC, you’ll come across various vendors selling imitation Rolex watches. You might have an uncle Tony who loves to brandish a fake, iced-out Presidential. Or maybe curiosity has gotten the best of you, and you’ve browsed the loads of fakes available via the online Asian markets.

Rolex isn’t just a watch—it’s a symbol of success, elegance, and prestige. The brand’s global reputation has created a high demand, which counterfeiters are more than eager to exploit. The sheer volume of fakes on the market stems from the allure of owning a luxury timepiece without the accompanying price tag. 

The average person might recognize a few well-known Swiss watch brands, but almost everyone can identify a Rolex. In a world where people often flaunt success and wealth—sometimes without the means to back it up—social media is overflowing with pretenders. Wearing a fake Rolex is just another form of that same illusion, a symbol of the desire to appear successful at any cost.

12 Ways to Tell If a Rolex is Real

Here are 12 indicators you can look at to make sure your Rolex is real.

Reputable Dealer

Because of the sheer amount of fake Rolex watches, it is of paramount importance to do your homework before purchasing a Rolex watch—new or used. The internet is a great black hole of misinformation and shady sellers, so if considering a new Rolex, always go through an authorized dealer of Rolex. This is the best way to ensure you are getting a 100% authentic Rolex, along with its full warranty and brand experience. 

If you have a question about that old Rolex sitting in your sock drawer, an AD can also provide authentication services. It’s equally important to consider the seller when considering a pre-owned Rolex. Here at Exquisite Timepieces, all of our pre-owned watches go through rigorous testing and authentication to ensure that your buying experience is as worry-free as possible. We have a wonderful collection of pre-owned Rolex watches for sale on our website. Whatever you choose, owning a piece of the crown is a great way to enjoy the wonders of horology!

Watch Price

Have you walked into a Rolex boutique and tried to negotiate the price on a watch—that is if they even have the watch you are looking for, which is nearly impossible in this day and age? They would laugh you out of the store. Rolex does not negotiate prices. You pay the MSRP, period. 

So, if someone is offering you a Daytona for 50% of the retail price, it’s fake. If the price seems too good to be true, it’s fake. Always have realistic expectations when it comes to purchasing highly sought-after luxury goods. Ask yourself: Why would someone be offering this watch at such a deep discount?

Watch Weight

A reliable way to spot a fake Rolex is by checking its weight—authentic Rolex watches are almost always heavier than counterfeits. This is because genuine Rolex timepieces are constructed from premium materials, such as 904L stainless steel, 18k gold, or 950 platinum in more recent models. Older Rolex watches might feature 9k or 14k gold, gold shell, or 316L stainless steel before the brand transitioned to 904L steel. 

On the other hand, counterfeit Rolexes are typically made with cheaper, lower-quality materials, making them lighter, less durable, and generally inferior in condition compared to the real thing. 

Movement

One of the most distinctive features of a Rolex is its movement. The second hand of a Rolex should move smoothly, almost gliding across the dial. If the second hand ticks or stutters, that’s a strong indicator of a fake. New Rolex movements go through stringent standards, achieving the certification of Superlative Chronometer, demonstrating precision of +/- 2 seconds per day. 

If you have a newly purchased Rolex that doesn’t achieve this level of accuracy, you either have a watch in need of service or a fake. A professional watchmaker can confirm whether the movement inside the watch is genuine. However, with the advent of super clones, black market manufacturers are crossing their t’s and dotting their i’s when it comes to recreating a movement that at least appears to be indistinguishable from a genuine Rolex. 

Caseback

Most Rolex casebacks are pretty simple, usually just a combination of brushed or polished metal with no engravings, logos, or fancy designs. Unlike some other luxury watch brands, you won’t typically find a clear window on the back of a Rolex to show off the movement. But there are a few exceptions—some vintage models and special editions might break the rule. 

Plus, with newer models like the platinum Daytona, Rolex has started to offer exhibition casebacks, giving a peek at the intricate inner workings. And for authenticity, Rolex often includes a green hologram sticker on the caseback with a crown, serial number, and a cool 3D “ROLEX” pattern that shifts depending on the viewing angle.

Cyclops

Many Rolex models with a date display include a feature known as the Cyclops lens. This is a convex lens positioned directly over the date window on the watch’s crystal. The lens magnifies the date by 2.5 times, enhancing its legibility. Like the watch’s crystal, the Cyclops lens is crafted from sapphire, making it both durable and scratch-resistant. Many fake Rolex watches have an incorrectly placed and magnified cyclops lens. 

I once had a buddy of mine show me his “brand new” Submariner. When I analyzed the dial, my eye was immediately drawn to the cyclops lens. The date was not magnified enough—or at all really—and the cyclops was just a hair off-center.

Crown Markings

Make no mistake: Rolex is meticulous about their crowns and their design and execution. On many fake models, the etched crown is usually smoother or flatter to the touch, while on a genuine Rolex, they protrude outward. A professional will often scrutinize the crown markings with a jewelers loop, not only to ensure that it is crisp and sharp but also to check the spacings of any markings beneath the crown. Rolex crowns have dots under the logo that indicate the watch’s water resistance and specific variations that coincide with case material. 

Three dots mean it has a Triplock crown, giving it extra water resistance, usually up to 300 meters, and are found on models like the Submariner, Sea-Dweller, and some GMT-Master IIs. Two dots signal a Twinlock crown, typically providing up to 100 meters of water resistance, often seen on models like the Datejust or Oyster Perpetual. There’s also a single dot or a line on some crowns, usually indicating a variation of the Twinlock crown, often found on vintage or less water-resistant models. The number of dots varies depending on the model and its water resistance features.

Serial Numbers

Every Rolex watch has a unique serial number engraved with precision between the lugs at the 6 o’clock position. The engraving should be sharp, clear, and not etched or printed. In fact, Rolex engraves serial numbers using high-precision laser engraving techniques, and counterfeiters often overlook this as most people don’t even know how to remove the bracelet on their watch to check the quality of the engraving! 

Furthermore, the serial number should match the documentation that comes with the watch, though it’s worth considering that fake watch manufacturers often source genuine serial numbers to inscribe on their watches. Rolex can assist in cross-referencing serial numbers to help verify your watch, but it’s worth mentioning that serial numbers alone are not enough to authenticate a timepiece. Most of the time, Rolex will have to open the watch and look at the movement.

Dial Details

Distinguishing a real Rolex from a counterfeit just by examining the dial can be quite difficult. Some fakes have atrocious dials with mismatched text, scratched indices, specs of dust, incorrect fonts, or some other example of subpar manufacturing. Keep in mind, folks, Rolex has been in the horology business for a long time. 

They have very stringent manufacturing standards, and you can expect a watch that is visually perfect to the human eye. And while most fakes can be quickly spotted via dial details, they are getting better and better, with the newest super clones being nearly perfect. When in doubt, always have a dial inspected by a professional!

Hands

When checking if a Rolex is fake, the hands can reveal a lot. First, take a look at the second hand. On a real Rolex, it moves smoothly around the dial, almost like it’s gliding. If you see a noticeable ticking motion, that’s a red flag. Next, check how the hands align with the markers. They should point exactly where they’re supposed to—any misalignment is suspicious. 

Also, pay attention to the shape and finish of the hands. Rolex hands are made with precision, so they should have smooth edges and a flawless finish. If they look rough or poorly finished, something’s off. The material is another clue. Authentic Rolex hands are made from high-quality materials like gold or polished steel. If they look cheap or show signs of tarnish, that’s a bad sign.

If the watch has luminescent hands, the glow should be even and well-applied. Sloppy or uneven lume can indicate a fake. I say “can” because I had a friend who had a brand new Submariner, purchased from an AD, with a tiny spec of lume imperfection at the 7 o’clock indice. 

I assured my buddy that Rolex would certainly fix it if he brought it back to the AD, but he decided to wait until he serviced that watch. Finally, for models with chronographs, the hands should start, stop, and reset smoothly. Any stuttering or misalignment could mean it’s not the real deal. In the end, paying attention to these details can help you spot a fake Rolex quickly.

Crystal Etching

Rolex started laser-etching its sapphire crystals around 2001 to deter counterfeiters. In the right lighting, you can just make out a tiny crown logo at the 6 o’clock position on the crystal. This detail is almost invisible to the naked eye and may require a loupe to see clearly. Counterfeiters often miss this or fail to replicate it accurately. 

If the etching is absent or poorly done, the watch is likely a fake.  One of the reasons why this etching is so difficult to replicate is because it is actually inside of the crystal and not just on the surface. This is incredibly expensive to manufacture without the proper machinery, and as such even the best super clones often have bad crystal etching.

Water Resistance

Did your 300m Rolex Submariner fail in the kiddy pool? Do you see fog on the inside of the glass or beads of water on the dial? This is likely an indication of a fake Rolex—or a genuine one in need of immediate servicing! Rolex watches are designed to be water-resistant, and this feature is rigorously tested at the factory. 

While I wouldn’t recommend testing this yourself, having a professional watchmaker test the water resistance is a good idea. Counterfeit watches often fail this test because they aren’t built to the same stringent standards as a genuine Rolex. Lack of water resistance is a significant red flag.

Why You Shouldn’t Buy Fake Rolex Watches

I have to be realistic. No amount of literature or logic will dissuade somebody dead-set on acquiring a counterfeit watch. Some people have their minds made up. They are looking to flaunt wealth and success and don’t much care for the ten thousand dollar price tag associated with doing so. There is something to be said for the factories putting out these counterfeit products. They are often poorly run with plenty of human rights violations. 

There is also something to be said about the blurring of the lines between real and fake. With the advent of AI technology, it is becoming difficult to discern real from fake. It’s never a good idea to play into this “blurring” but rather to celebrate authenticity and human ingenuity. If you can’t afford a Rolex but you really want one, consider the pre-owned market. 

Finally, you are going to look like a fool when someone who knows watches, a colleague, business partner, maybe even your boss, asks to look at your watch. Don’t be the guy peddling a fake as the real thing. You’ll look like an idiot.

Conclusion

By taking the time to educate yourself and carefully examine any Rolex you’re considering, you ensure that you’re not just buying a watch but a genuine piece of history. A real Rolex is a lifelong companion that can be passed down through generations. Don’t settle for less. Wearing the crown is a costly endeavor, but that ensures a quality timepiece that symbolizes its wearer’s commitment to genuine quality.

Many people purchase luxury watches that are recognizable, iconic, and flashy, often to impress others. However, it is said that you buy a Grand Seiko not to impress others but rather to impress yourself. 

There is something both tangible and intangible about the beauty of a Grand Seiko. The sharp lines and Zaratsu polished edges certainly leave an impression. 

On the SLGH013, the Ever-Brilliant Steel case, a proprietary corrosion-resistant steel, has a nice heft to it—a reminder that you are wearing something special and exceptionally durable. Beyond the tactile pleasures of wearing a luxury timepiece, the SLGH013’s dial is both poetic and romantic. But more on that later…

History

The Grand Seiko SLGH013 is part of its esteemed Heritage Collection, paying homage to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS, a watch that established modern, angular, and masculine Grand Seiko styling. 

Released in 2023, the SLGH013 is a perfect blend of past and present, utilizing new case materials, movement technology, and a more compact and wearable size; overall, the SLGH013 makes a strong case for being a near-perfect Grand Seiko.

Case

I think it would be silly to discuss this case without first bringing up the new and improved dimensions. The new generation movement (9SA5) allows for a much more appropriate form factor that can be dressed up or down. This watch seemed right at 40mm, with a lug-to-lug of 47mm and a case thickness of 11.7mm. 

I don’t have the largest wrist, at 6.75 inches. Trying on a variety of different Grand Seiko models had always left me pursing my lips and wondering: “Can I pull this off, or is it just a smidge too big?” 

And then, one day, I saw the SLGH013 for the first time…

The proprietary Ever-Brilliant steel paired amazingly well with the case, offering an ethereal sheen, further accentuated by what I knew was Zaratsu polishing on the edges of the case. 

I’d read that the new case material was more corrosion and scratch-resistant than Oystersteel, and a bit of research later confirmed that the material is not gimmicky but rather offers greater durability to the wearer. Hats off to Grand Seiko for their continued exploration of movement and material technology.

…And there it was—three feet away from me—winking at me, beckoning me to slip it over my wrist. I felt my heart quicken. I had to try this watch on. I had to see how it fit on my wrist. 

Dial

Grand Seiko is the master of dials this side of fifty thousand dollars. Their three-dimensionality, color-changing attributes, and connections to nature all make for a viewing experience that is leaps and bounds above the competition. 

The SLGH013 has a light blue, textured dial that evokes spring’s melting snow on Mt. Iwate, the 2,000-meter mountain visible from the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi workshop where all their mechanical watches are crafted. 

If you look closely enough, you’ll see individual strands of ice arranged this way and that. Your eyes can get lost in the visual maze, settling on darker spots or finding new shapes in the lighter crevices. For me, gazing upon the SLGH013’s dial was like sitting in a zen garden. 

I could meditate and just enjoy getting lost in the dial intricacies. Try doing that with a regular old black or blue dial…

And Grand Seiko being Grand Seiko means they don’t cut corners. The dial has Zaratsu polished hands and hour markers, offering superb legibility and light play even in low-light environments. Sure, you don’t get lume, but this watch is still super legible in most situations! 

Movement

The 9SA5 automatic movement is beautiful to look at with its high-level detailed finishing. Where it truly shines, though, is in its power reserve, boasting a whopping 80 hours (up from the 55 hours of the previous generation 9S). While this might not seem that high, it’s impressive, considering it’s a Hi-Beat movement that runs at 36,000 vph and has excellent tolerances. 

The new 9SA5 caliber features a very energy-efficient escapement and a new free-sprung balance specially designed for this movement. This design retains its precision for longer and is more resistant to shock and friction. 

Additionally, Grand Seiko kept it very thin, making it 15% slimmer than other 9S Hi-Beat calibers. The Grand Seiko SLGH013 has a sapphire case back with a large aperture, allowing you to enjoy observing the beautifully finished 9SA5 caliber. 

I was mesmerized by the movement of the second hand, which seemed to effortlessly glide around the dial almost as smoothly as a spring drive.

Straps

Yes, yes—we’ve all heard how Grand Seiko bracelets are a step behind the competition. The rumor mill hints at a possible micro-adjustment clasp being released in the future, but as of now, you get a standard butterfly clasp without fine adjustment. 

The SLGH013’s bracelet is a step above the standard stainless steel Grand Seiko bracelet, as it is crafted from Ever-Brilliant Steel. It felt “good enough” on my wrist, and that’s not to say that it is a bad bracelet, but I think I would probably prefer this on a blue, gray, or even a brown leather strap. However, the 19mm lug width may pose a challenge when seeking alternative straps. 

Fortunately, the inclusion of drilled lugs facilitates easier strap changes, offering some versatility despite the size constraint. So, the bracelet is not the SLGH013’s strongest feature, but it functions well enough for a luxury wristwatch.

On-Wrist Experience

“Is that the SLGH013?” I asked, even though I already knew the answer. 

“It sure is,” the salesman said, a smile on his face as he put on white gloves to present the timepiece to me. 

I swallowed. This was my moment. I felt like King Arthur, preparing to pull the sword from the stone. I’d tried on many Grand Seiko watches in the past, and though they visually tickled my fancy, they never checked that final and most important box: wearability. 

He handed the watch over to me and I gently placed my hand through the bracelet. The dial was unreal in person—no pictures could possibly do it justice. And it wore perfectly on my 6.75-inch wrist. 

It had no lug overhang, and it was slim enough to fit under my shirt’s collar. Beyond that, it offered a muted, sporty styling. I have no doubts that this watch will go perfectly with jeans and a T-shirt, or even a suit. I’d confidently say that this watch would do well on wrists ranging from 6 inches all the way up into the 8-inch territory, too.

Price & Availability

The SLGH013 is available at all authorized dealers of Grand Seiko and has an MSRP of $9,500. If you are seeking a Grand Seiko SLGH013, there is no better place to purchase one than Exquisite Timepieces. 

We’re renowned for our expertise in luxury timepieces and our enduring partnerships with esteemed brands like Grand Seiko. As an authorized dealer of Grand Seiko, we have the expertise and experience to answer any questions you may have. 

We also have an extensive collection of Grand Seiko models. Feel free to explore our curated collection online or experience the exclusive range available at our boutique in Naples, Florida. Every order from Grand Seiko includes complimentary delivery and comprehensive insurance, ensuring your luxury watch arrives securely. 

Of course, there are other places to purchase a Grand Seiko timepiece, such as an online marketplace or various watch forums. Still, with millions upon millions of inauthentic watches in circulation, the safest place to purchase any high-end timepiece is always a reputable dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

Purchasing from an authorized dealer such as Exquisite Timepieces also ensures that you receive Grand Seiko’s full factory warranty: a phenomenal five years from the date of purchase.

Put your mind at ease, and let us do the legwork for you!

Conclusion

To see a Grand Seiko in person is to witness the perfect amalgamation of art, design, and engineering. In recent years, Grand Seiko has pushed hard to gain ground in the United States, and they are doing so with great success. 

The SLGH013 is, in my opinion, as close to perfect as one can get with a Grand Seiko. It offers superb wearability, finishing, and movement technology, all while being a direct descendant of the legendary 44GS. 

You don’t have to take my word on it, but I guarantee when you strap the SLGH013 for the first time, when your eyes widen in disbelief at the Zaratsu polished edges, when they get lost within the snowy Mt. Iwate, then and only then will you fully understand why Grand Seiko is the pride of Japan.