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best tourbillon watches

Whirlwind is the English translation for the french word, ‘tourbillon’. It was named tourbillon because it literally spins on itself and is constantly in a state of motion. However, it’s not what you’re thinking. A tourbillon is not just another superfluous complication designed out of vanity. 

Patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, a tourbillon is a marvelous expression of fine watchmaking that defies conventional classification. Gravity is a force that can upset the accuracy of a timepiece when in certain positions leading to less accuracy and precision.

The tourbillon was thus designed to counter the effect of gravity on the regulating organ so that the watch can remain highly accurate no matter its position.

The fact that tourbillon watches are rare (and challenging to produce) confers a notable degree of scarcity in them, making them highly sought after by connoisseurs of exquisite timepieces. They are even considered the  ‘Holy Grail’ of Haute Horologerie and are fashioned by the most talented and highly skilled watchmakers. 

From the most affordable to the most luxurious and exquisite watches, read on to discover the best tourbillon watches with peerless complexity and craftsmanship!

About The Tourbillon

The escapement of a timepiece is often in a fixed position in each mechanical watch. This escapement includes a hairspring that is mounted on a balance wheel that rotates back and forth, and this is where the problem lies. 

Since the balance wheel has some heavier spots due to its design, the gravitational effects on these areas affect the watch’s accuracy whenever it is positioned differently.

Abraham-Louis Breguet realized that the only way to solve this problem was to house the entire escapement in a rotating cage. If the balance wheel and hairspring are in constant motion, then no matter what position the watch is in, the variations in timing will be annulled.

Consequently, the tourbillon was developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the year 1795 and patented in 1801. The next important evolution of the tourbillon took place in 1902 when a flying tourbillon was developed by Alfred Helwig and his students. The so-called ‘flying’ tourbillon was designed to improve the stability and visual appeal of the standard tourbillon.

Unlike its predecessor, it was cantilevered. This means it was only supported on one side, rendering an unhinged view into the classical escapement.

After this innovative creation, the double-axis tourbillon followed in the 1980s and featured a design that could rotate the tourbillon cage in two axes. Today, inventions like gyro tourbillons and triple-axis tourbillons proudly display the aesthetic prowess of high-end watch brands.

What Is The Purpose of Tourbillon Watches?

The initial purpose of a tourbillon was to check the effects of gravity on the movement of pocket watches. Pocket watches were typically worn in a vertical position. They could stay in this position all day except for the minor instances in which the wearer moved them to find out the time.

This sort of positioning when in use and flat storage when not in use meant the movements of pocket watches were subject to unequal pressures upsetting their accuracy.

By rotating the escapement and balance wheel through all the probable vertical positions, the tourbillon could cancel out the pressure on the movement and improve the accuracy and longevity of the timepiece.

This invention was of great advantage, and tourbillons invaded the Horological world as soon as they arrived. However, with the advent of wristwatches around the time of World War 1, the relevance of the tourbillon waned.

The movements of wristwatches are not susceptible to the same pressure as pocket watches since they are worn on the wrist and often moved by the wearer, creating a sort of ‘tourbillon’. 

In modern times, the tourbillon has evolved from a practical complication to a piece of engineering that demonstrates watchmakers’ craftsmanship, creativity, and aesthetic prowess.

35 Best Tourbillon Watches From Affordable To Luxury

1. Lenvino Tour Collection 02

With a price tag of fewer than $1,000, you’re not going to purchase the world’s most elaborate tourbillon. But the fact that you will get a distinguished timepiece with a real flying tourbillon movement is astonishing.

Lenvino is a Hong Kong watch brand known for creating authentic watches with premium materials. With its stainless steel circular case measuring 43mm in diameter and strap width of 20mm x 18mm, the Lenvino Tour Collection 02 is remarkably comfortable and suitable for most consumers.

The dial is ‘stripped’, drawing exclusive attention to the beautiful Flying Tourbillon relying on a cantilevered single support. The rotation is certainly a pleasure to behold when viewed from above, and the high quality is astonishing. The dial also has a grained texture and is adorned with printed Arabic numerals and skeleton alpha hands.

The Seagull TY800 real flying tourbillon movement vibrates at 21,600 beats per hour and provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $900

2. ERA Timepieces Prometheus

ERA Timepieces Prometheus

Founded by Michael Galarza in 2018, ERA Timepieces is respected for keeping its promise. The young brand made a grand promise of offering ultra-rare and high-end haute horology complications in price tags that are accessible to all.

Whether the Prometheus Tourbillon lives up to the hype of delivering quality and craftsmanship worth a million dollars in a package just a little above $1,000 is up to the wearer. However, the timepiece is breathtaking. 

The Prometheus Tourbillon is a big watch with a stainless case measuring 44mm across, a thickness of 12.7mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 51mm. The skeletonized dial features a pretty clever design with an exposed tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock. 

The embellished dial has been painstakingly created to dazzle the eye and pay tribute to Haute Horology. Oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Caliber HZ3360A. It is a Chinese tourbillon hand-wound movement with impressive accuracy and a power reserve of approximately 32 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $1,500.

3. Stührling Viceroy Tourbillon 296D

Stührling Viceroy Tourbillon 296D

Stührling is another watch brand that offers aesthetically pleasing timepieces at very affordable rates. At a diameter of 42 mm, the size is just ideal for showing off the details of the dial flawlessly. 

The Chinese-made timepiece may not feature a flawless tourbillon escapement, but if you want to sport a watch with this complication and are under budget, you can begin from here. 

The dial is highly legible with a guilloché-like pattern adorned with skeletonized alpha-styled hands and an exposed tourbillon movement. Applied Roman numerals juxtaposed with stick-style hour markers provide a nice contrast against the silver-plated dial. 

The tourbillon mechanism is positioned at the lower end of the dial giving the watch an attractive and luxurious feel. It is water resistant only to a depth of 50 meters despite having a screw-down crown and features scratch-resistant Sapphire crystals in front and behind. 

The watch is priced at $2,250.

4. Swatch Diaphane One Tourbillon (ref. SVAK1001)

Swatch Diaphane One Tourbillon (ref. SVAK1001)

Known for revolutionary ideas, Swatch is a watch brand famous for high-quality and stylish timepieces that defy the principles of quintessential Swiss watchmaking. The Ref. SVAK1001 is one such creative model with a joyful design that surprised Swatch fans when it was released in 2001.

Limited to 2222 pieces, the Diaphane One line contains Swatch’s most complicated watches. The 42mm case is made of plastic and aluminum (only the bezel material). The watch is classified as a Carrousel Tourbillion because it uses two different power sources—one for the escapement and another to regulate the rotation of the enclosure. 

The whole faceplate rotates once every 30 minutes, so you have two rotations per hour. The magnificent open-worked dial is adorned with Lancette hands in addition to stamped Arabic numerals and stick hour markers.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is a skeletonized manual winding movement; the ETA 93.001 has been refined with several decorations. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $4,000.

5. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (ref. CAR5A8W.FT6071)

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon (ref. CAR5A8W.FT6071)

TAG Heuer is a solid brand famous for utilizing avant-garde engineering in the production of its watches. 

The Chronograph Tourbillon is presented in a large case that measures 45mm in diameter.  The generous proportions are compensated for with a lightweight black PVD titanium case and carbon bezel.

The skeleton dial is nothing short of impressive, and including a tourbillon complication makes it more enthralling. The captivating flying tourbillon complication is housed in an aperture at the base of the dial. 

Three rotating arms hold it in position, and a generous application of SuperLuminova on the balance wheel means the escapement will be legible even in low light. The dial is multiple layers adding impressive depth and beauty.

A 12-hour chronograph register resides at 9 o’clock, while a 30-minute chronograph register sits at 3 o’clock. Both registers are open-worked, revealing a vertically brushed surface underneath. 

The in-house caliber HEUER02T COSC keeps the timepiece highly accurate and provides a power reserve of approximately 65 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $15,000.

6. Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture (ref. FC-975MC4H4)

Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture (ref. FC-975MC4H4)

The Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture is presented in a 42mm rose gold-plated case that has been polished to the highest sheen. At the center of the brilliant silver dial, you will find a clous de Paris guilloché decoration and three sub-registers with crisp markings in black. 

At 12 o’clock is the indicator for month and leap year, while the date is at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week is at 9 o’clock. The 60-minute tourbillon is located at the base of the dial in a large aperture that offers us a superb view of the tourbillon cage, balance wheel, and silicium escapement.

Slender hand-polished leaf-shaped hour and minute hands eloquently mark the large printed Roman numerals in black. Hyper-expensive movements are neglected for this piece, and a reliable and affordable one has been used here.

A pane of sapphire crystal across the case-back offers a breathtaking view of the FC-975 Manufacture caliber. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of 38 hours. The Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture comes mounted on a quality alligator strap fitted with a deployant.

The watch is priced at approximately $18,000.

7. Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon (ref. MB126469)

Montblanc Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon (ref. MB126469)

Inspired by the spirit of Haute Horologerie, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon is cleverly constructed with an unmatched presentation.  The 18k rose gold case measures 42 mm in diameter and has been polished to the highest gleam. The slim height gives the watch a perfect wrist presence making it a choice dress watch.

The extremely detailed dial is exquisitely finished, and the breathtaking suspended Exo Tourbillon mechanism sits at the base of the dial. Exo is derived from a Greek word that means external. 

As such, an impressively large balance wheel is elevated outside the tourbillon’s cage. Not only is this move aesthetically pleasing, but it also makes rotation seamless, thus increasing the efficiency of the movement. The main plate and bridges are entirely open-worked and visible via the timepiece’s front and back.

Underneath a domed crystal, the Ivory-coloured dial is adorned with 18k rose gold leaf-shaped hands, a minute track, and rose gold-coated Arabic numerals. Elaborately decorated with 188 hand-finished components is the MB M18.69 movement, capable of a power reserve of 50 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $40,000.

8. Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon (ref. RB21201A1L1P1)

Breitling Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon (ref. RB21201A1L1P1)

Coming in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the Premier Chronograph Tourbillon is a heritage-inspired powerhouse that embodies Breitling’s most innovative legacy.

The timepiece is a reinterpretation of the original Breitling Premier watch from the 1940s and comes in a 42 mm 18k red gold case with a non-screw-locked crown and rectangular chronograph pushers.

The enchanting dial in British racing green has a distinguished two-tone finish and sets the stage for the exquisite tourbillon. The Star of the show takes center stage at 12 o’clock. An open sapphire crystal case back offers a gratifying view of the B21 movement where the reverse side of the tourbillon and the oscillating weight can be appreciated.

Other iconic details like grooves on the sides of the case, Arabic numerals, and vintage-inspired hands add elegance to the timepiece. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and matched with a gold-brown alligator strap.

The watch is priced at approximately $50,000.

9. Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Tourbillon (ref. 1282-310LE-2AE-175/1A)

Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Tourbillon (ref. 1282-310LE-2AE-1751A)

Ulysse Nardin is a Swiss luxury watchmaker famous for manufacturing complex and highly accurate marine chronometers. The Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Tourbillon is a charming illustration of the Brand’s Haute Horlogerie prowess and its deep respect for heritage. 

The watch is complicated yet stunningly beautiful and is presented in an 18K rose gold case. The black enamel dial from Donzé Cadrans is nicely executed, and features rose gold ‘poires Roskopf’ hands that contrast against bold silver Roman numerals.  

A power reserve indicator is at the upper half of the dial, presented in a subtle recessed sub-dial with “BAS” and “HAUT”, meaning full and empty in golden print. At the base of the dial is the elegant flying tourbillon with an underlying anchor offering a clear view of the tourbillon cage.

The watch is COSC-certified, and the tourbillon is fitted with an escapement fashioned completely in silicon. Since silicon is high performing, the operation is smooth with little exertion and lubrication.

The watch is powered by the in-house Caliber UN-128, an automatic movement with 208 components that provides a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $60,000.

10. Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon (ref. 10.9000.9020/79.R918)

Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon (ref. 10.9000.902079.R918)

The Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon is an avant-garde piece with high-tech features that is both fascinating and rare. The carbon case measures 46mm across and has been constructed with ruggedness and durability in mind. 

Two tourbillons proudly occupy the entire left side of the dial. Both of them have been suspended from the PVD-coated open-worked bridges with chamfers highlighted in rose gold.

The tourbillon, which has taken over the 7 and 8 o’clock index, acts as the escapement for the watch. On the other hand, the tourbillon at 10 o’clock acts as an escapement for the chronograph and beats at an impressive 50Hz (or 360,000 VpH). This means it completes a rotation every five seconds! Mind-blowing!

The open-worked dial features large silver-plated hands, a chronograph power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, and hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced readability.

Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero automatic movement with 311 components provides a power reserve of 50 hours. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes equipped with a black rubber strap with a blue “Cordura effect”.

The watch is priced at approximately $90,000.

11. Bell & Ross BR 01 Tourbillon

Bell & Ross BR 01 Tourbillon

Bell & Ross might not be a very popular luxury watch brand, but its creation of quality timepieces for professional users such as divers and pilots has earned it reverence in the watch world.

The BR01 collection was launched in 2005 and has a lineup of mesmerizing watches with a design that resembles the classical style of cockpit clocks. The Bell & Ross BR 01 Tourbillon is a state-of-the-art timepiece with a large titanium case and black rubber bracelet. 

The watch is rather bulky but is paired with a very light case and comes with a relatively small crown that will not dig into the wrist. The timepiece is functional and incorporates four complications. A regulator and a five-day power reserve have been positioned at 9 o’clock, while a sub-dial for the small hours counter is located at 12 o’clock. 

At 3 o’clock is the optimum accuracy indicator, while the tourbillon with a black gold finish is positioned at 6 o’clock. Vivid red and yellow accents enliven the dial and add energy to the somber watch. 

The design is particularly bold, and large lumed applied hands and indices on the black dial keep the watch extremely legible and lively. The striking contrast of white on black means the time can be easily read at a glance anytime, anywhere. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by a manual winding movement.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

12. Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica (ref. PAM00350)

Panerai Radiomir Tourbillon GMT Ceramica (ref. PAM00350)

Initially designed as a prototype at the request of the Royal Italian Navy in 1936, the Radiomir was the first special luminous timepiece for divers from Panerai.

The Tourbillon GMT Ceramica pays tribute to Galileo Galilei for his significant contributions to the fields of astronomy and science. “Lo Scienziato” means the scientist, and this timepiece is nothing short of what you’d expect from a reputable watch brand like Panerai. 

The watch is truly unique and comes in a 48mm wide imposing dark monochrome case that has been made from zirconium oxide. The case size means the watch is really large and solid, with a notable wrist presence.

The refined skeleton structure of the dial is highly legible, unlike many open-worked dials. Lumed Arabic numerals have been used for 12, 3, 6, and 9, while bar markers are used for the others.

The tourbillon is elegantly positioned between 9 and 12 o’clock and is astonishing with its unusual axis and fast spin of 30 seconds per revolution.

A small seconds sub-dial is at 9 o’clock, while a timezone day/night indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by a skeleton hand-wound mechanical movement; the Panerai P.2005/Scalibere. 

The watch is priced at approximately $150,000.

13. Vulcain Tourbillon (ref. 620565Q18.BGK101)

Vulcain Tourbillon (ref. 620565Q18.BGK101)

The Vulcain Tourbillon Ref. 620565Q18.BGK101 is presented in a 42mm rose gold case with a thickness of 12.50mm which gives it an ideal weight and wrist presence. Vulcain is a Swiss watch brand with over 150 years of producing quality timepieces. Though not popular, the marque’s haute horlogerie prowess can be seen in this exquisite timepiece. 

The tourbillon, which is highly polished and presented with sharp external angles, takes the spotlight between 8 and 10 o’clock. The semi-skeleton dial is satin-like and features a circular charcoal grey texture enlivened by gold Arabic numerals juxtaposed with rectangular markers.

The dial’s symmetry is harmonious, with a black and gold tone-on-tone layout that adds profound elegance and style to the timepiece. Among other stand-out features, the watch is powered by the mechanical hand-wound Vulcain Tourbillon V- 62 caliber. It is a robust movement with an impressive power reserve of 120 hours.

The Vulcain Tourbillon is worn on a hand-sewn black Louisiana alligator strap which is secured to the wrist by a folding clasp buckle made of pink gold.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

14. Breguet Marine “Grande Complication” Tourbillon (ref. 5887BR/G2/9WV)

 Breguet Marine “Grande Complication” Tourbillon (ref. 5887BRG29WV)

The Breguet Marine “Grande Complication” Tourbillon is a true classic, with an extra touch of first-class sophistication. 

Breguet is renowned for manufacturing complex timepieces, and this one is an ode to the ingenuity of the Haute Horologerie brand. The state-of-the-art watch is termed a “Grande Complication” because it features a perpetual calendar, an equation of time, and the latest tourbillon.

Introduced at Baselworld in 2017, the timepiece pays homage to the appointment of Abraham-Louis as the official watchmaker of the French Navy. It was in 1815 that Louis XVIII, the King of France, appointed him “Horloger de la Marine Royale”. This timepiece preserves traditional techniques and reinstates Marque’s unparalleled patrimony in the sphere of uber-complicated watches.

The striking guilloche-peaked wave motif underscores the connection between the Marine line and the sea. It is adorned with rose gold moon-tipped hands with luminescent material and applied Roman numerals. The perpetual calendar is paired with the equation of time display. In a window between seven and nine o’clock, you will find a power reserve indicator.

A mechanical self-winding movement, the caliber 581DPE with 57 jewels and 563 components provides a power reserve of 80 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $180,000.

15. Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Squelette 8 Jours Red Gold (ref. 6025AS-3630-55)

Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Squelette 8 Jours Red Gold (ref. 6025AS-3630-55

The Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Squelette 8 Jours Red Gold is presented in a 38mm 18kt red gold case with a classical Swiss design. The watch’s size might be a bit diminutive by modern standards, but the lugs are slightly rounded, ensuring a comfortable fit. 

Blancpain is a brand that is famous for its daring pieces in the horological arena, and the Squelette 8 Jours takes us right into the future. There is almost no dial, and the movement is what appears as the backdrop for the slenderred-goldd hands.

Inside the bezel of the contemporary-shaped case, a bold ring in black has red gold Roman numerals to ease time telling. The tourbillon is elegantly positioned at 12 o’clock, drawing deserved attention to the dial upon each glance. 

The power reserve indicator can be found at 5 and 7 o’clock, while at 9 o’clock is the rotary date indicator which is a very helpful feature for the modern man. The watch is splendid, easy to use, and houses the manually wound Calibre 1333SQ, a skeletonized movement with a power reserve of 8 whole days. 

The watch is priced at approximately $170,000.

16. Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon (ref. 1-94-03-05-04-30)

Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon (ref. 1-94-03-05-04-30)

Released in a limited edition of just 25 pieces worldwide, the Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon Ref. 1-94-03-05-04-30 is a classic timepiece in the purest sense of the word.

The watch comes in a white gold case, measures 42 mm across and is perfect for a comfortable fit. The case features satin-brushed and polished surfaces with soldered lugs, faceted with polished edges. The varnish silver-grainé dial features a fine matte finish with blued steel hands.

A large date window at 12 o’clock reveals the date with the help of two discs of the same height that are separated from each other only with a faint arcing line. The date window is stepped and feels subtly abstract, adding a bit of depth to the dial.

The tourbillon is positioned at the base of the dial, and its rotating cage is framed by a clean track denoting the seconds.  An automatic movement, the Calibre 94-03, is visible through the sapphire case back of the watch.

It is mounted on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, equipped with a foldover clasp in white gold.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

17. Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition (ref. 529.53.43.22.01.001)

The 43mm case of the Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition is crafted from polished 18k Sedna gold and brims with notable grace and poise. The central part of the case has been brushed with 18k Canopus gold. Sedna gold is Omega’s proprietary pink gold, while Canopus gold is the brand’s proprietary white gold alloy.

The black dial is quite discreet, with a radial brushed pattern exquisitely executed with multiple layers that enliven the watch and give it profound depth. The design is luxurious yet modest, focusing on the tourbillon at the central part of the watch. The tourbillon is impressive, with a modernized cage made of black ceramic titanium and hand-polished bevels.

It is encircled by a fluted gold ring, which functions as a decoration and a small seconds track. Applied gold indexes and small faceted gold hands adorn the dark dial. It is powered by the robust in-house – hand-wound movement, the Omega caliber 2640. Being a Master Chronometer, the timepiece is highly accurate, durable, and resistant to shocks. It comes with a 5-year warranty.

The watch is priced at approximately $200,000.

18. Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (ref. SLGT003)

Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon (ref. SLGT003)

The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is a complex watch with an aggressive design that just puts it in a league of its own. 

The watch is the first complicated mechanical timepiece from Grand Seiko in its six decades of uninterrupted production and is nothing short of impressive. For the brand, it is its first mechanical tourbillon, skeletonized timepiece, and first constant-force mechanism watch.

It is arrayed with a sophisticated skeletonized, and delicately finished movement flaunting a tourbillon and a one-second remontoir on the same axis.

The case of the watch is constructed from 950 platinum and the Marque’s Brilliant Hard Titanium and measures a fitting 43.8 mm x 12.9 mm. The watch’s overall design is far from the familiar Grand Seiko layout and aesthetic but still enchanting and elegant.

The soul of the watch is the tourbillon and constant-force mechanism located at the base (6 o’clock). The rare mechanical complication combined on a single axis improves chronometry. The Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is driven by the Calibre 9ST1, the first open-worked movement from GS from an aesthetic viewpoint with components that gleam in the light. It provides a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $350,000.

19. IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (ref. IW504601)

 IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde (ref. IW504601)

The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde is an incredible watch with a strikingly attractive design that is not loud or messy but contains a lot of information. The platinum case measures 44.2 mm in diameter and features a polished, beveled bezel with sloping lugs.

The refined appearance of the silver-plated dial is fashioned to maximize the interplay of light and is pretty much unadorned. The cleanness of the dial draws attention to the tourbillon at first glance, which is located at 12 o’clock.

The beautiful floating tourbillon is mounted on one side only against a dense background, allowing us to view the escapement and its mechanical sections below. As expected, the finishing of the highest standard with a decoration fits the movement’s geometric style perfectly.

The see-through sapphire crystal case back offers a generous view of the in-house 51900 caliber, a mechanical movement with 44 jewels, and an outstanding power reserve of 7 days (168 hours).

The watch is priced at approximately $130,000.

20. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 103295)

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 103295)

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph is a distinguished watch that features a tourbillon, an ultra-thin BVL 388 skeleton movement, and a chronograph.

It is the world’s thinnest tourbillon chronograph and is presented in an octagonal sandblasted grade 5 titanium case with many facets. The look of the watch is spectacular and aggressively angular with a round bezel.

Bvlgari reasserts its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking with this unconventionally slim timepiece that is only 7.4 mm in height.

The watch has a monochromatic look with a truly superb skeletonized matte grey dial, as sections of it have been done away with to reveal the tourbillon escapement and the mainspring.

There are no hour markers that might hinder legibility, but there’s a perfect amount of symmetry and organization in the way the dial has been laid out. 

The running seconds’ indicator is at 9 o’clock while the chronograph minutes is at 3 o’clock. The hands are skeletonized, and the tourbillon sits at  6 o’clock. Driving the watch is the Calibre BVL 388, operating at a rate of 21600 VpH with a power reserve of 52 hours when fully wound.

The watch is priced at approximately $170,000.

21. Chopard L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon (ref. 161929-5001)

The Chopard L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon is a wonderfully constructed timepiece with three certificates. The name is derived from the COSC (a timing certificate), Geneva Seal ( this is issued by the Canton of Geneva for timepieces manufactured there), and Fleurier Quality Foundation label. 

This last certification is one of the most stringent quality tests in the watch-making industry. For a timepiece to be FQF certified, it must have surpassed the reliability, timing, and technical criteria. 

The watch is presented in a contemporary-sized 43 mm platinum case with alternative polished and satin-brushed surfaces. The 8-day power reserve indicator sits at 12 o’clock while the tourbillon is at the base of the dial.

Black rail-track minute markers frame the dial, and it is adorned with applied Roman numerals. Thanks to two sets of double barrels, the calibre L.U.C 02.13-L, made entirely of 18-carat gold, provides an impressive nine-day power reserve when fully wound.

The watch is priced at approximately $150,000.

22. Vincent Deprez Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition

Vincent Deprez is a French watchmaker known for making discreet yet beautifully executed timepieces in the most traditional way possible. The Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition is an ode to the relatively young brand and reflects the goal of using mostly traditional tools and techniques.

The watch is made by hand using traditional tools and is finely executed with overall coherence and a lot of attention to each detail. The watch measures a wearable 39 mm and features an open dial with a 60-second tourbillon. 

A large sub-dial for the hours and minutes features a grand feu enamel that has been fired by Vincent himself. The tourbillon is somewhat large at 12.6mm in diameter and is framed with a second chapter ring at 8 o’clock. The proportions are classical; the visible main plate has a traditional frosted finish resembling historic high-end watches. 

Oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations/hour is an in-house hand-wound movement with 15 jewels and a power reserve of 52 hours. Nothing is ostentatious, but the overall design is elegant and clean.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

23. Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral (ref. 00.10920.03.13.01)

Carl F. Bucherer Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral (ref. 00.10920.03.13.01)

Famous for avant-garde complications and breathtaking designs, Carl F Bucherer is an independent Swiss watch brand with a rich tradition that dates back to the 1880s. The luxury watch brand has made its mark in the world of Horology and this unique timepiece showcases the brand’s signature complication.

The Double Peripheral Tourbillon is a complication that features a winding mechanism that does not rotate on the top of the movement. Rather than that, it rotates around the movement without obscuring the view.

Carl F. Bucherer has made the watch sophisticated and enchanting in that the tourbillon can easily be termed a super-flying tourbillon. The silver-colored dial of the 43 mm 18K red gold case is adorned with gold-plated indices and lancet-shaped hands.

The tourbillon is elegantly positioned at 12 o’clock and has a hand that acts as the seconds display. The cage has no visible bridges holding the device in place, but the weight is supported by three ceramic ball bearings that ensure a stable connection and smooth run. 

The pallet and escape wheel of the escapement are made with the anti-magnetic silicium allowing an increased power reserve of 65 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $70,000.

24. Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon (ref. PFH921-2020001-200182)

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon (ref. PFH921-2020001-200182)

Parmigiani seems to be aggressively invading the hyper-competitive realm of sophisticated watches. From the Tonda PF collection that debuted in 2021 to this flying tourbillon released in 2022, the brand continues to surprise us with heavenly delights.

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is an unconventional timepiece equipped with a flying tourbillon in a somber platinum dial that bestows undivided attention to the tourbillon.

The 42mm platinum case has a thin profile of 8.6mm with teardrop-shaped lugs and a screw-down crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The flying tourbillon is positioned between 6 and 8 o’clock and is the star of the show, mesmerizing viewers with its mirror-polished screws that dazzle in the light.

The 18-carat gold delta-shaped hour and minute hands are open-worked and rhodium-plated. The indexes are short and are also crafted out of 18-carat gold and rhodium-plated. Encircling the main dial is a slightly recessed minute track denoted by short black lines. The watch is powered by Parmigiani’s ultra-thin automatic PF517 movement.

The watch is priced at approximately $160,000.

25. Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon (ref. CRW4100013)

Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon (ref. CRW4100013)

The Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is an exquisite watch with a retro touch that bolsters its refined look. The 47mm case is impeccably polished and compelling, with a shape that is neither round nor square but looks like a turtle shell.

The dial is an exquisite display of intricate guilloche finishing on a satin-brushed surface. The outer section of the dial is open-worked with black transferred Roman numerals that look like they are about to burst through the case. 

Underneath the hour markers, a white galvanized surface beams with a sunray effect. Pared down to the bare essentials, blued-steel sword-shaped hour and minute hands adorn the stark dial while the tourbillon occupies the base.

The flying tourbillon complication and C-shaped tourbillon carriage double as a small seconds indicator. Oscillating at 21,600 vibrations/hour is the caliber 9452 MC, a manual winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. 

It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is certified “Poinçon de Genève”. This seal is a guarantee of authentication awarded only to watches with outstanding finishing and quality materials.  

The watch is priced at approximately $85,000.

26. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon (ref. Q1682410)

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon (ref. Q1682410)

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon is an elegant and discreet watch that is presented in a refined 40 mm 18K pink gold case. The pink gold case is entirely polished with a thickness of 11.3 mm, which is decent for an automatic tourbillon.

The mechanically complex timepiece is charming, refined, and compelling. The beautiful dial is presented in an “eggshell shade” with a slightly grained texture. The hands are half polished and half brushed, while the hour markers are gilded and facetted.

At the base of the dial is the tourbillon. It is encircled by a small seconds track and showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s exceptional watchmaking savoir-faire. The bridge of the tourbillon is a rounded mirror-polished arm that crosses over the tourbillon cage, giving viewers a breathtaking view of the tourbillon’s ballet.

Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the in-house Caliber 979G with 33 jewels and a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a brown alligator strap with a pin buckle.

The watch is priced at approximately $90,000.

27. Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon (ref. 99105-41-232-BB6A)

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon (ref. 99105-41-232-BB6A)

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon is a masterpiece offering a supreme vision of elegance. The 45mm case is crafted from titanium and 18kt white gold, and the look of the watch isn’t one you see every day.

The dial is skillfully crafted with a matted gray of the same color as the case and an octagonal bezel is inserted within a circle.

The flying tourbillon, positioned at the base of the dial is the prima donna, enchanting the wearer with her outstanding performance. A lone bridge made of titanium sits across both sides of the cage, breaking up the congruous symmetry of the Clous de Paris pattern. The bridge resembles a double-headed arrow and supports the rotating tourbillon cage.

The watch is highly legible despite the tone-on-tone hands and indexes. Visible via the exhibition case back is the Calibre GP 09510-0002. It contains 33 jewels and provides a power reserve of 48 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $110,000.

28. H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon (ref. 3804-1205)

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon (ref. 3804-1205)

H. Moser & Cie. is an exemplar of haute horlogerie with a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces with complications of the highest standard.

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon is a highly desirable watch in a stainless steel case measuring 42.8 mm across. The case is without flaws and features alternating polished and brushed surfaces. It also has a screw-down crown that bears witness to the 120 meters water-resistant capacity of the watch.

The gradient or fume dial is a beauty to behold, and the coloration is altered according to the light reflecting on it. It is decorated with clean, hand-applied multi-faceted indexes. At 6 o’clock is a large tourbillon which makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. An opening on the dial offers a first-row view of its beating heart.

Nothing is on the dial apart from the hands, indexes, and of course tourbillon. The H. Moser & Cie calligraphic logo finishes it off with elegance and style. It is powered by the in-house caliber HMC 804. This movement is fitted with a double flat hairspring and powers the watch for up to 3 days.

The watch is priced at approximately $50,000.

29. F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Calibre 1403

F.P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Calibre 1403

Coming as a tribute to François-Paul’s earliest watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Calibre is a magnificent watch with an unconventional design. The timepiece draws inspiration from the brand’s first clocks and pocket watches and brings all the distinctive elements into one design.

One thing that is glaring when you take a look at this watch is how it dispenses with extreme care the tourbillon at 9 o’clock. Time is indicated on an off-centered dial that is positioned at 3 o’clock while the tourbillon sits in an aperture that has a complete mirror polished rim with a beaming countenance. 

The platinum case measures a fitting dimension of 40 mm across and features a fully polished finish, a domed bezel, and a flat crown. The background, which is noticeable on glancing at the watch, is the base plate of the movement as the watch has no dial. 

The base plate is finished with a Clous de Paris guilloché pattern. In addition to the tourbillon and off-centered dial, it houses a power reserve at the top and a deadbeat seconds at the base.

The timepiece is exquisite, smart, crisp, and eminently practical.

The watch is priced at approximately $180,000.

30. Piaget Polo Emperador Tourbillon (ref. G0A38041)

Piaget Polo Emperador Tourbillon (ref. G0A38041)

Piaget is a brand with over 100 years of extensive expertise in fine horology. The Emperador Tourbillon is one of the brand’s most enthralling creations that shows the Marque’s ingeniousness in terms of technology.

This timepiece pushes the boundaries of creativity with an ultra-thin movement that plunges us into the magical world of Piaget’s mechanics.

The watch comes in an 18K white gold case that measures 46.5 mm across —  it is a really large watch — with a thickness of 10.4 mm. The flying tourbillon movement sits in an aperture with a wide mirror polished rim at one o’clock. It has been conscientiously decorated and polished to the highest level. 

Something fascinating about this timepiece is the off-centered oscillating weight turned around to exhibit the micro-rotor in white gold. Piaget distribution of mirthful moving parts in the watch’s dial creates the shape of a Lucky 8 since the P-shaped tourbillon cage is opposite the micro-rotor.

The watch is priced at approximately $100,000.

31. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon (ref. 6000V/110A-B544)

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon (ref. 6000V110A-B544)

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Ref. 6000V/110A-B544 is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 42.5mm in diameter. Its height of 10.39 mm, coupled with inward sloping case flanks, keeps the large watch snugly fitted on the wrist. 

The case is exquisitely finished with a brushed finish on the top surface and a mirror finish on the edges. The beautiful Laiton Générique CuZn dial features hands and hour markers crafted from 18k white gold. 

Both hands and hour markers are coated with luminescent material to ensure legibility during the day and night. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock has a cage inspired by the Maltese cross and performs one revolution per minute. It also serves as a small seconds display.

Visible through the open-worked case back is the Caliber 2160, an aesthetically pleasing movement with 188 parts that provides a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Thanks to a peripheral rotor in use and not the ubiquitous central rotor, the self-winding movement is just 5.65mm high.

The watch features a quick-release mechanism at the lugs and is delivered with straps in steel bracelet, crocodile, or rubber.

The watch is priced at approximately $140,000.

32. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon (ref.26730BC.GG.1320BC.01)

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon (ref.26730BC.GG.1320BC.01)

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon comes in an 18-carat white gold case that measures a fitting 41 mm x 10.6 mm. The case and bracelet are finely brushed and polished while the bezel is finished with a new “frosted” technique.

The distinctive feature of the watch is found in the dial. The blue Grande Tapisserie dial has a breathtaking dimpled texture with a circular brushing that offers it profound depth and a unique interplay of light.

The flying tourbillon is visible at 6 o’clock through a round aperture on the dial. Since it has been secured only on its lower point, it does not have a bridge. As such, the tourbillon cage can be relished with no hindrance. The hour markers and hands are in white gold with a luminescent coating.

The watch is powered by the in-house Calibre 2950, an automatic movement with 270 components and 27 jewels. Its running time is approximately 65 hours when fully wound.

The watch is priced at approximately $350,000.

33. Patek Philippe Grand Complications Platinum Tourbillon (ref. 5316P-001)

Patek Philippe Grand Complications Platinum Tourbillon (ref. 5316P-001)

Patek Philippe’s inventions are always state-of-the-art pieces. They always come with an understated elegance that bespeaks confidence and exclusivity. 

The Grand Complications Platinum Tourbillon is a beautiful watch demonstrating the Marque’s superlative watchmaking prowess. Everything is spectacular and refined, from the design to the construction and finishing.

The timepiece is termed a grand complication because it is equipped with a tourbillon,  a minute repeater, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. The calendar is termed “instantaneous” because registers on the dial for the month, day of the week, and date all turnover in unison as soon as it strikes midnight.

The platinum case is 40.2 mm in diameter and just a little over 13 mm in height. The black enamel dial is adorned with gold-applied hour markers and faceted dauphine-style hands. At 6 o’clock, you’ll find the moon phase and sub-seconds with an arched date display right above. 

At 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, you will find the day and month apertures. Unlike other brands that proudly flaunt their tourbillons, Patek Philippe has kept the tourbillon under the dial, concealing the wealth of the wearer.

The watch is priced at approximately $900,000.

34. A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon (ref. 730.079)

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon (ref. 730.079)

The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Ref. 730.079 is presented in a 39.5 mm polished platinum case with a brushed case band. The glossy white dial is a pure interpretation of classical pocket watches from the 19th century and is dressed with blue steel hands. 

The red 12 index is a feature found on ancient pocket watches of the brand, and it adds a notable degree of gracefulness to the timepiece. The sword-shaped hour and minute hands reach out towards Arabic numerals, which have been fired and printed neatly with great diligence. 

Positioned just beyond the hour markers, a minute track with short black lines encircles the main dial. The one-minute-tourbillon straddles the lower portion of the dial and its presence animates the entire face of the watch. 

The watch features a Zero-Reset mechanism which allows time adjustment to the nearest second and a stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon. As such, the seconds’ hands can be reset to the zero position when the crown is being pulled.

A glance through the sapphire crystal case back reveals an excellently finished and decorated movement; the L102.1. It is a hand-wound with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

The watch is priced at approximately $200,000.

35. Richard Mille RM 47 Tourbillon

Richard Mille RM 47 Tourbillon

Richard Mille is an exclusive brand that focuses on the production of ultra-luxury Haute Horlogerie timepieces. Nicknamed the “Billionaire’s Handshake”, the watches from the Swiss watchmaker are famous for housing technically complicated mechanisms. 

The RM 47 Tourbillon was released in a limited edition of just 75 pieces after 4 years of intense work by some of the best horologists and craftsmen. Inspired by the philosophy of Bushido and paying tribute to the ancient samurai culture, this timepiece emphasizes extraordinary aesthetics and unmatched technicalities.

The watch is presented in a black PRP ceramic tonneau-shaped case with a 3N yellow gold case band and a black TZP ceramic bezel and case back. A single glance plunges us into Richard’s magical world of mechanics. A samurai armor at the central part of the watch has been crafted out of solid gold with artistic details painstakingly designed by the famous hand engraver Pierre-Alain Lozeron.

Among other stand-out features, a crossed pair of falcon feathers lies at six o’clock to immortalize the Asano clan’s heraldic Kamon. Overall, the design is luxurious, excellently executed, and enchanting, as you would expect from such a brand.

The watch is priced at approximately $1,000,000.

CONCLUSION

The tourbillon has evolved from a functional architectural device to a romantic emblem today, but it will forever remain a classic expression of high watchmaking.

It’s been over 200 years since its invention, yet only a handful of established watch brands have mastered the art of tricking gravity by use of a tourbillon. Less than that amount dare to provide a fitting tribute to this splendid expression of high watchmaking because of the complexity and high-end craftsmanship required.

As a result, these watches are always very expensive. Expect to spend from $15,000 to price tags that break the six-figure barrier for a Swiss-made tourbillon watch.

Best affordable watches that hold their value

The most common word associated with watches these days is the word investment. People want to enjoy the benefits of wearing a quality timepiece and be sure it will always hold its value. 

As a watch enthusiast, the first thoughts that come to mind anytime I set my eyes on a watch are the cost of the timepiece and how much value they hold. These are the honest thoughts of any collector because as much as everyone loves a quality watch, the cost is a big hindrance to many purchases. 

Is Value Retention Important in Watches?

The meaning of value might differ from person to person. It might mean how much a particular piece costs and how much meaning a piece has to an individual. But when it comes to watches, the major factor that gives a watch value is how much it could cost in the future and, in this case, if the price would go higher or lower. 

I always advise people just getting into watches and trying to get an affordable timepiece to purchase watches from known reputable brands to get a piece of top quality and one they would enjoy wearing. 

Value retention does not play a role in this case. However, it is different when trying to purchase a watch that you can sell in the future for the same or a higher amount. In this case, the value retention of a timepiece is a very important factor.

What Makes a Watch Hold Its Value?

The cost of acquiring a watch is one of the qualities most people believe makes a watch hold value. From my experience as a collector, this is not always the case. There are lots of qualities a watch must have for it to be considered a timepiece that holds value.

Brand Recognition 

In all honesty, I won’t want to start telling anyone about my watch when I’m asked what I have on my wrist; I always want my timepiece to make a statement with just the brand name. The hype that comes with having a Rolex or a Patek Philippe is exactly what brand recognition means. 

The recognition a watch brand has is among the qualities that tell if a watch holds value or not because of the name such a brand has built for itself over the years. Watches like Jaeger-LeCoulture, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have been in existence for decades and are still known for not just their high costs but durability, quality, efficiency, and a whole bunch of other qualities that have kept them relevant to date. 

The fact that these watch brands have created a reputable name for themselves has kept them in the market for hundreds of years. Customers trust their products, which has increased their sales over the years of their operations. The recognition these brands have in the world of watches is a major factor that has helped most of their products hold value for a long time.

Watch Materials

After considering the brand of a particular watch when trying to acquire a new timepiece, the materials used in making the watch are one major factor that keeps me glued. The metals and crystals used for the casing are one aspect to be accessed when looking at the materials used to make a watch. Most brands say they use quality stainless steel, but some of them make use of alloy or very cheap steel for the casing of the watches.

The most common grade of steel found in top luxury watches are 316L and 904L steels. Materials like gold and titanium are used to case some top quality watches like the Omega Seamaster 300, crafted with grade 2 titanium and currently worth $9,500; the Rolex Day-date President with 40mm casing and up to 100 grams of pure gold, this timepiece costs up to $40,000.

Movement

One thing that blew my mind when I started getting into watches was the fact that the movement of a watch could determine the value associated with timepieces. There are two different movements in the world of watches, the Quartz that ticks every second and the mechanical watches with a sweeping seconds hand movement.

The mechanical watches are always more expensive than the others, mainly due to the effort put into the mechanism.

Watch Exclusivity 

A watch like the Patek Philippe Henry Grave Super Complication was a watch specifically designed for wealthy business people in the early parts of the 20th century. It was a pocket watch that had 24 different features, which took up to three years to design and five years to manufacture. 

This limited edition of Patek Philippe sold for $24 million in 2014 and held the record for the highest amount spent on a timepiece at that time. Aside from being cased in 18 karats worth of gold and having so many features, the exclusivity of this timepiece is the major factor that holds the value of this pocket watch to date.

Iconic Status

The story behind the creation of a particular watch or events, reasons, and experiences that surround a timepiece could categorize a watch as iconic. A good example is the Reverso collection from Jaeger LeCoultre, which was brought to life in 1931 to protect watches from being scratched or damaged during physical activities.

Various collections have come out of this brand, yet the Reverso collection seems to be the most popular one out of all of them, and multiple watches in this iconic line are very well known to hold their value.

Do Affordable Watches Hold Their Value?

As I mentioned earlier, the material used in designing a watch is a major yardstick for measuring if a timepiece would hold value or not. Every watch manufacturer wants to make a profit from the sale of their timepieces. That’s always the goal when trying to sell anything, right? And nobody would make use of very quality materials in designing a watch and sell them very cheaply because those materials cost a lot of money. 

So, there are no cheap watches that hold value, in my opinion. But when it comes to the world of watches and gauging from the cost of a lot of other timepieces, there are affordable watches that hold their value. I will give you a list of some of these watches and their specifications below. 

The Best Affordable Watches That Won’t Lose Their Value

1. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2T18200)

Timex announced the launch of this hand-wound watch back in 2017, and it instantly became a hit due to the quality of materials used in the design and how cheap it was. This timepiece has a case size of 34mm with a thickness of 10mm. It has a lug width of 18mm with a water resistance of up to 30m.

The most attractive features of this watch are its excellent dress watch proportions, along with the hand-wound Seagull movement powering it. This leather strapped hand-wound watch is perfectly styled to carry that vintage look and only costs $200.

2. Omega x Swatch Moonswatch (ref. SO33G100)

Omega x Swatch Moonswatch (ref. SO33G100)

This unique collaboration between Omega and Swatch came out in 2022 and took the watch world by storm. Its bioceramic case has a 41.9mm diameter and is built with two-thirds pure ceramic, and the other one-third is from a material obtained from castor oil.

This watch has the look of the Omega Speedmaster and can easily play the same role if you don’t have up to $6,000 to spend on a Speedy. The short lug-to-lug distance of 47.9mm makes it wear very well on most wrists. It does have a few shortcomings, including an acrylic crystal, but for $260, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a watch with a more iconic design.

3. Seiko SKX007 (ref. 7S26-0020)

This timepiece carries the look and price to make it the go-to piece for many watch lovers. Like most Seiko watches, it has a very masculine design with a 42mm in width, 13mm in height, and a 46mm lug to lug. The outstanding feature of this watch lies in its overall function.

It was manufactured to satisfy the ISO 6425 dive standard, which includes temperature cycling from -20c to 60c, getting hit by a hammer weighing up to 3kg, and a meter drop test, all done while maintaining its accurate time. 

This watch has a Seiko 7S26 movement which is the company’s cheapest movement and goes to show that designing a quality watch doesn’t always have to come with the most expensive materials. 

The designs on the minute, second, and hour hands add more to the aesthetic look of this watch. Seiko discontinued the SKX collection in 2019, and prices have increased steadily for a piece in good condition. If you can find one close to its original retail price of approximately $200, go for it, as it’s unlikely to drop any time soon.

4. Seiko Alpinist (ref. SARB017)

Seiko Alpinist (ref. SARB017)

I set my eyes on this timepiece in 2022, and the attention to detail on the green dial really stood out to me. It has very bold numerals on the dial with cathedral minute, hour, and second hands. This Japanese watch is powered by a 6R15 movement that is very reliable and shock resistant with a water resistance of up to 200 meters. 

It also has a sapphire crystal which makes it very difficult to get scratched. This watch has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 12mm which makes it very easy to wear. This Alpinist watch is well-respected by many collectors because of the good features it has and still falls under the category of quality watches that you can buy for less than $1000.

5. Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.04)

Junghans Max Bill Automatic (ref. 027/4007.04)

The minimalist design and the overall look of this watch made me purchase this watch a couple of months ago. The dimensions of this timepiece include a 38mm diameter, a case height of 9.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 40mm. 

Junghans are known for their minimalist features, but the addition of sapphire crystals has added a little bit of sophistication to the watch. As simple as this timepiece looks, it is controlled by an automatic movement inside, the calibre J800.1. This watch currently sells for approximately $1,200.

6. Sinn 556 I (ref. 556.010)

Sinn 556 I (ref. 556.010)

The components of this watch make it a relatively affordable one, even in the range of $1000-$1500. From being hand-assembled in Germany and also having a Sellita SW200-1 movement, I consider this a very good buy. Aside from being an easily repairable watch due to its movement, Sinn watches are also known for their resistance to shock and cold. 

The timepiece has a sapphire crystal on the front and back and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 45.5mm, a thickness of 11.2mm, and a lug width of 20mm. The dial of this watch has white text and a deep black background which matches the middle parts of the second, minute, and hour hands, giving them a floating look. 

7. Omega Speedmaster Reduced(ref. 3510.50.00)

Omega Speedmaster Reduced(ref. 3510.50.00)

Like most Omega Speedmasters, the Reduced has a very legible dial with a black background and white minute, hour, and second hands. The dial of the Speedmaster Reduced houses 3 sub-dials that serve chronograph functions for a 30-minute counter, a 12-hour counter, and small seconds. 

This watch measures 39mm in diameter and has a lug width of 18mm. The steel watch is powered by the caliber 3220, which is a self-winding ETA-based movement fitted with a modular chronograph mechanism and also has a water resistance of up to 30 meters. This timepiece has a Hesalite crystal at the top of the watch, which adds to its thickness of 12.3mm. This watch currently sells within the range of $3,000 to $4,000.

8.  Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400  (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)

 Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400  (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)

Pilot watches have a lot of features that make them appealing to a wide range of people. This timepiece was released in 2022 and comes in pink, blue, gray, and green colors. The watch is housed in a 39mm diameter and 12mm thick lightweight titanium case.

It features the in-house automatic Calibre 400, with 5 days’ worth of power and a water resistance of up to 100 meters. One feature that differentiates this pilot from some other ones is the see-through case back which allows you to see the artistic inner workings of the timepiece.

The serpentine-style three-link bracelet also adds to its look and makes a firm grip around the wrist. The watch has a simple dial with minute, hour, and second hands and also a date indicator at the bottom part of the watch. This timepiece is currently worth $4,300. 

9.  Tudor Pelagos 39 (ref. M25407N-000)

 Tudor Pelagos 39 (ref. M25407N-000)

One of the standout features of the Tudor Pelagos 39 is its dimensions, including a diameter of 39mm, a case thickness of 11.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm. This dive watch is powered by an in-house COSC-certified movement, the MT5400, and has a power reserve of up to 70 hours. The watch has a casing and bracelet made with grade 2 titanium and has a water resistance of 200 meters. 

The Tudor Pelagos has a black dial with white second, minute, and hour hands and also white and red texts within the dial which all light up in the dark. The complementary rubber strap that comes with this watch allows for a longer-lasting relationship with this watch, as interchanging them will prevent the watch from getting scratched. This watch is currently sold for $4,600.

10.  Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

 Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)

This is one of the most popular Omega watches, and as the name implies, it’s an edition of the first Omega watch in space which is the Speedmaster 2998. An alpha-style hand is used for the hour and minute hand, while baton hands were used for the 12-hour and 30-minute sub-dial. 

This watch is powered by the Omega caliber 1861 hand-winding movement and also has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. This stainless steel timepiece has the date of October 1962 engraved on its back, which marks the Sigma 7th space mission. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm and a thickness of 14mm. The cost of this watch ranges between $5,000 to $6,000.

11. Tudor Black Bay (ref. 79220N)

Tudor Black Bay (ref. 79220N)

This model of the Black Bay has a 41mm case from side to side, just like the other ones. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 49.6mm and features an ETA 2824 movement with 38 hours of power reserve. 

This watch has a very classic dial, just like the ones found in old-school Rolexes, and even includes the original Tudor rose logo. The casing and bracelet of the stainless steel watch are well polished all around and have the inscription of Tudor at the bottom and in between the clasps. This timepiece costs between $5,000 to $6,000.

12. Rolex Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird (ref. 16264)

Rolex Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird (ref. 16264)

This is one of the later models of the Rolex Thunderbird, which was created for air force pilots back in the day. The watch is available in solid gold and stainless steel types. This timepiece is a late-80s, early-90s watch, so it doesn’t come with the fanciest features. It has a bi-directional bezel at the top, which moves freely without the usual clicks. 

This watch comes in different dial colors with bold indices and a tiny Roman numeral inscription at the top of the indices. It is a 36mm cased watch with a thickness of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. You can find ones in good condition for around $7,000 to $8,000.

Conclusion 

From my experience as a watch enthusiast, the affordability of a watch varies from person to person. A particular timepiece could have all the characteristics of a watch that holds value and sell at a price lesser than it is valued at. Despite that, a lot of people would still categorize such a watch as expensive. 

However, it can be seen from the list above that there are quality watches of different ranges that hold their value, and these watches could be enjoyed by people looking to sell them in the nearest future for the same or a higher cost, and people just looking to enjoy the feeling of a quality watch.

best thin dive watches

If you are reading this, you are probably tired of heavy and bulky dive watches, and you need a sleek design. You’re in luck. The Exquisite Timepieces team scoured depths to uncover the 15 best thin dive watches.

These watches combine a relatively slim profile with a regular dive watch’s renowned durability and precision timekeeping. As a result, they are versatile and stylish dive watches. Portable enough to style formal wear and lightweight for everyday fashion without bugging your wrist.

While they all have a similar design architecture, you’ll find a variety of svelte styles for different budgets to choose from on our list. So let’s get to it.  

About Thin Dive Watches

When you think of a dive watch, you probably envision something big, bulky, and built like a tank – which is true. It’s no surprise when they are designed to survive deep-sea diving. Ideally, they feature overengineered, often oversized cases with superior durability, legibility, luminosity, and water resistance, boosting their general demand and not being restricted to divers only. 

You most likely thought, “you want all these quirks but in a streamlined and elegant case” when you embarked on the journey for thin dive watches. The good thing is there are quite a few quality timepieces that fit the category. However, you’ll be out of luck if you expect models like the ultra-thin 2.4mm Bulgari Octto Finnissimo. Thin dive watches range from around 6mm to 13mm, and most fall within the 11mm range. 

On the bright side, they are comfortable to wear for long periods and can be dressed up without getting caught under your sleeve or jacket cuff. Slim divers can serve you on formal occasions or in their element for casual or sports wear. 

Thin dive watches are no pushovers, either. Some models can be slightly tougher than regular or oversized ones. However, they suffer no compromise to structural integrity due to the slimmer profile. They also maintain essential dive watch features such as a unidirectional bezel, water resistance, and luminosity. Plus, technological advancements have allowed for the creation of thinner movements that don’t sacrifice accuracy.

Should You Buy A Thin Dive Watch?

It’s no secret that more than half of the people who buy diver watches are not divers or into sports. Most enthusiasts buy them because they love the design, which is subjective. At the same time, another set of folks uses the unidirectional bezel to time an array of activities other than underwater duration.

For what it’s worth, the closest action my dive watch sees is recording 20-minute intervals for regular breaks from work. Another thing is even bulky dive watches are designed to fit under a wetsuit. They are tool watches, so they fit perfectly under overalls if you work in an industry.

But a thin dive watch is your best bet if you want a low-profile model you can style with a dress shirt. It gives you that bold look, unmatched visibility, and functionality in a small case. Plus, they are a great choice for small wrists that struggle to wear divers without having the fit of an Omnitrix. Slim dive watches fit better and stylishly.

The Best Thin Dive Watches

We’ve compiled this list of the absolute best quality divers with cases thinner than 13mm. The selections are according to their value and respect among enthusiasts, not by size.

1. Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue (ref. M79030B-0001)

Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue (ref. M79030B-0001)

Starts from approximately $3,300

The Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue (ref. M79030B-0001) is a thin dive watch masterpiece with a vintage appeal. It has a 39mm case, slightly smaller than the conventional 40mm and 45mm, and is only 12mm thick – a perfect size for both men and women. It has a durable, corrosion-resistant case made from 316L stainless steel.

Its blue unidirectional bezel is a classic design with 10-minute Arabic-numbered intervals to 60 minutes. The aluminum bezel is fluted for non-slippery handling with gloves or underwater. Also, its markers are Super-LumiNova treated – meaning they glow in the dark. This “glow in the dark” feature extends to the hour marker and hands on the dial.

Speaking of the dial, it’s yet another classic look, but in blue. It sports a domed dial plate, trademark round markers, and snowflake hands, which are simple yet aesthetic. You’d love the attention to detail in the finish of the Black Bay. Its case is polished down to the lugs, while the bracelet is a rough, bold, and dressy satin finish.

The Tudor Black Bay’s standout function is arguably its long-lasting 70-hour power reserve. That’s about three days’ worth of juice powered by a COSC-certified in-house movement, the MT5402.

2. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 1110 B52A)

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 1110 B52A)

Starts from approximately $11,500

Since introducing the original Bathyscaphe watch, Blancpain has committed to creating smaller-sized sports diving watches, and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe (ref. 5000 1110 B52A) is no exception. 

This luxury dive watch stands out for its thin profile and sleek design. It’s housed in a 43mm case of only 13.4mm thickness. And this size might not seem thin to casual wearers, but it falls in the sweet spot for professionals. 

While this Bathyscaphe might seem relatively thin compared to dress watches, it is noteworthy for a dive watch, which typically requires a thicker case to withstand the pressures of deep-sea exploration.

In addition, the slim and flat bezel enhances the watch’s thin profile with its ceramic inlay and Liquidmetal markers and numerals. The 23mm width between the horns also enhances its slim profile. 

What I admire most about this dive watch is how Blancpain kept up with typical features while trying to achieve a slim profile. As a result, the watch maintains a high water resistance (300 meters), an impeccable 120-hour power reserve, and a high resistance to shock and magnetism.

3. Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

Glashütte Original SeaQ (ref. 1-39-11-06-80-70)

Starts from approximately $11,900

They say looks can be deceiving, and that’s exactly the case with this Glashütte Original SeaQ model. Its gigantic numeral Arabic numerals can be misleading of its actual weight and frame. But it’s only the brand’s way of prioritizing visibility for underwater and low-light environments or reading the time at an angle.

But its enormous feature goes no deeper than the numbers. The SeaQ has a polished stainless steel case, possibly one of the thinnest certified dive watches. It’s only 39.5mm and has a height of 12.15mm, which is impressive considering the watch’s 200-meter water resistance rating. A small detail I loved about this diver is the representation of its 20-bar (200 meters) water resistance on the case back with 20 waves.

You’ll also love its innovative dial design. It’s a radiant combination of large orange Arabic numerals, baton markers on a sunburst black dial, and the date window at 3 o’clock.

Regarding functionality, SeaQ has all makings of a professional dive watch. It has a fully graduated 60-minute unidirectional bezel, luminescent markers, and hands. The brushed stainless steel bracelet is nice, but you also have more dive-friendly options of rubber and synthetic straps. 

In addition, it comes with a Glashutte Original automatic caliber 39-11 with a 40-hour power reserve running at 28,000 frequency. Plus, the watch meets DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 diving standards.

4. Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.6)

Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.6)

Starts from approximately $2,300

This watch is another small adaptation of a classic diver – the Legend Diver – as a 10th-anniversary model. As its name implies, its round measures only 36mm, 11.90mm thick, with a 19mm lug width. Give it to Longines to add class and style to their rugged tool watches, as this Diver 36 gets a Milanese (mesh) bracelet. It’s easily mistakable for a dress watch considering its skinny profile and unisex appeal.

The Longines Legend Diver 36mm (ref. L3.374.4.50.6) is remarkable for more than its sleek design, though. I love how its dial is caricature-like as it packs many functions into its portable 36mm case. For example, it has an inner bezel rather than a robust unidirectional bezel to stay thin and fashionable. And has distinct stick indices and mixed hour markers that make it even easier to read the time, despite the clutter. 

Additionally, with water resistance of up to 300 meters, the Legend Diver L3.374.4.50.6 proves you don’t need a 50mm thick case to go some distance underwater. It runs on a 45-hour power reserve in-house caliber L592.

5. Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18)

Oris Divers Sixty-Five (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18)

Starts from approximately $2,700

The Oris Divers Sixty-Five is another relatively thin dive watch worth taking a shot at. It’s a sleek and fashionable diver of 40mm diameter and 13mm thick. I particularly like that you can make a statement wearing this watch on any outfit, whether a suit and tie or dressing down for a beach outing.

Aside from having a low-slung profile, Oris’s (ref. 01 733 7707 4055-07 8 20 18) watch doesn’t really strike all the right chords for me. For a watch that is 13mm thick, you’d expect it to have some high water resistance, which is not the case. The watch only has a 10 bar water resistance which is quite good if you don’t intend to submerge it in water.

6. Seiko SNE573

Seiko SNE573

Starts from approximately $500

If you are not a fan of big dive watches or you have a small wrist, consider buying the Seiko SNE573 watch. It is small, only 10.6mm thick, and barely wide (38.5mm diameter). Although the watch is small, it is not uncomfortable.

The dial and bezel have legible numerals and markers with a LumiBrite coating. So, even underwater, you can tell the time clearly. It also has a very comfortable silicone rubber strap that doesn’t bite into or leave marks on your skin. Despite a small frame and entry-level price point, this Seiko SNE573 houses impressive features.

One standout feature is the solar-powered quartz movement, which is very accurate and long-lasting. When fully charged, it can last for up to 10 months. And with its 200m water resistance, you can descend with this watch into deep waters – just be sure to ascend in ten months.

7. NOVE Trident E009-02

NOVE Trident E009-02

Starts from approximately $370

Now, this definitely has to be the slimmest dive watch you’ll ever find. It is only 6.8mm thick, even though it has a relatively large 46mm case. So, if you want an extremely thin watch but with a huge face, the NOVE Trident E009-02 would be the perfect candidate for your collection. It’s lightweight and among the most affordable luxury dive watches on the market.

In addition to a slim profile, the NOVE Trident E009-02 has a unique three-level stopper bezel system. They are designed to help the bezel stay unidirectional and are easy to clean after underwater use. Note, though, that only the hour and minute hands are luminous. It may not be ideal for use in dark or low-light environments, as the hour and minute markers on the dial and bezel lack applied Superluminova.

8. Glycine Combat Sub (ref. GL0076)

Glycine Combat Sub (ref. GL0076)

Starts from approximately $1,300

Here’s another watch on our list of thin dive watches. Admittedly, the Combat Sub isn’t exceptionally thin compared to the NOVE Trident E009-02 or Seiko SNE573. But at 11mm thick, it more than paints the perfect picture of a thin dive watch. 

The case is 42mm in diameter and houses a very busy dial. Busy in the sense that there are 24-hour markers on the black dial – who cares about military time in this age? And only the 1 to 12-hour markers are visible in low-light conditions. So why include the other hour markers? If I’m a fan of military time, I’ll want to use it in the light and the dark.

But then, different strokes for different folks, right? Still, on the cluttered dial, there is a date window at the 3 o’clock position and many brand and model name engravings. The dial is a bit choked up.

My issue with the dial aside, the Glycine Combat Sub (ref. GL0076) is a high-performance watch. It has all the kicks and perks of true dive watches – a unidirectional bezel, screw-down crown, water resistance, and powerful movement.

9. Mido Ocean Star 200 (ref. M026.430.11.051.00)

Mido Ocean Star 200 (ref. M026.430.11.051.00)

Starts from approximately $1,100

The Mido Ocean Star 200 (ref. M026.430.11.051.00) is also a top contender for those in the market for a thin dive watch. It has a thin case that is 11.8mm thick and 42.50mm wide. The case has a screw-down back, crown, and 20 bar water resistance.

What strikes me most about this watch is the dial’s simplicity. Don’t get me wrong; sometimes, complicated dials can be beautiful and functional. In fact, Mido has some watches in the Ocean Star collection with insane clutter.

But the simplicity of this model is quite intriguing. It features white stick markers and skeletonized hands on a black dial and bezel. Only the 15th, 30th, and 45th minutes on the bezel are numbered. Inside the Ocean Star, 200 is a COSC-certified Mido Caliber 80 (base ETA C07.621) with an 80-hour power reserve.

10. Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 38mm

Starts from approximately $1,150

What’s more exciting to an enthusiast than a watch with an open case back? Probably a thin dive watch with the same case back or anyone with a worthy movement to display. Luckily, Christopher Ward’s C60 Trident Pro ticks both boxes at a price I’d like to call a steal.

This C60 Trident is an ultra-thin (11mm) and portable (38mm) masterpiece, sporting a lightweight polished stainless case and bracelet. It’s also highly customizable, with options to add an engraving or resize the bracelet for a token.

Not to mention, the bracelet is marine-grade stainless steel with micro-adjustment mechanisms (and screw links), a useful feature even top luxury watchmakers ignore.  The Trident’s dial and bezel are exceptionally stylish while staying rugged. It features a plain white dial, white markers and hands highlighted with black for contrast, and a black-on-white bezel with Arabic numerals.

One detail that particularly caught my eye was the Trident on the seconds hand. Finally, it uses an automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, date display, and an Elaboré’ Colimaçoné’ finish.

11. Baltic Aquascaphe Black Cream

Baltic Aquascaphe Black Cream

Starts from approximately $735 

Next on our list of thin dive watches is the Baltic Aquascaphe Black Cream watch. Its stainless steel case is 39mm wide and 12mm thin. The watch offers a vintage charm with a modern performance. Its retro-inspired design draws inspiration from classic dive watches. However, it incorporates modern elements that make the watch safe and stylish.

The case and bezel are covered with double-domed sapphire glass. Being one of the toughest materials in the watchmaking industry, this solid sapphire glass is poised to protect the watch from scratches and breakage. So go ahead and surf the seas, knowing that your watch can take hard hits. Avoid bumping it intentionally into things because even the strongest materials have a breaking point.

In addition to a sturdy case and glass covering, the dial is powered by the iconic automatic winding Miyota 9309 movement, which has a 42-hour power reserve. This movement also powers the unidirectional rotating bezel and its 120-minute graduation.

12. Sinn U50 (ref. 1050.010)

 Sinn U50 (ref. 1050.010)

Starts from approximately $3,500

Sinn U50 (ref. 1050.010) is a mid-sized version of the highly durable U1 watch. It offers nearly all the benefits of the U1 version but in a 41mm case instead of the 44mm. The U50 combines the rugged durability and water resistance of the U1 with the sleek and slim profile of a dress watch – its case is only 11.15mm thick. 

But don’t be fooled by the aesthetics and slim profile. The U50 is a super functional instrument watch and one of the most rugged dive watches ever made. The case is made of submarine steel, an antimagnetic material that’s highly resistant to seawater corrosion and “tegimented” to prevent scratches.

And unlike conventional luxury dive watches, the U50 has a remarkable 500-meter depth capacity. It’s powered by an efficient Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with 25 jewels and 28,800 running frequency.

Its dial and bezel have an eye-catching toolsy aesthetic. The contrast of orange and white markers on its matte black dial is an ode to legibility in and out of water. It’s an even more striking beauty when the dial’s luminescent applications come to life in the dark.

The only gripe is that it uses a leather band, which can be an advantage if you get the U50 for casual and formal dressing. However, you’d need to buy a Sinn rubber replacement for diving purposes. 

13. Orion Calamity Void

Starts from approximately $1,650

The Orion Calamity Void is a thin dive watch (11.3mm) with a bold face. It’s only 39.5mm but has a double-domed anti-reflective coating and shielding lug design that covers the crown. So while it may appear large, it can fit small wrist sizes and dress cloths.

The dial also accentuates its bold and masculine appeal. The black-on-black combination with the bezel, sharp white hour markers, and hands, and oversized orange seconds hand are far from a calamity. However, it has a high-gloss finish that shines on its satin-brushed case and bracelet, making it a choice evening watch. 

Furthermore, the Calamity has a 200-meter water resistance rating) and an exhibition case back. It displays the automatic Sellita SW300 movement with Geneva stripes and a gold Orion logo. Overall, the Orion Calamity Void is a mystifying combination of the hardiness of dive watches in a thin and stylish frame capable of dressy wear. 

14. Formex Reef Automatic Chronometer

Formex Reef Automatic Chronometer

Starts from approximately $2,100

This watch is a bad boy in every sense. It’s a true diver by design, with a case similar to an old diving helmet. While the case is 42mm across, it’s only 11.4mm thick and built with the toughest materials all around.

The Reef’s case uses the same 316L stainless steel as our number 1 pick, the Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue. And features a scratch-resistant zirconium oxide ceramic bezel with 3D graduations of 60 minutes. It’s the only watch on the list with a 3D effect engraving on the bezel.

The exceptional bezel glows in the dark with its Rehault-syle baton markers on its sunray-finished dial. You can take this beauty down to 300m, which is also impressive since most thin dive watches only have the standard 200m water resistance or less.

However, a patented micro-adjustment system sets the Formex Reef Automatic Chronometer apart from the crowd. This rubber strap has a patent clasp that allows seamless adjustment and safe lock in all conditions.

The Reef also has a stainless steel bracelet with screw links for easy adjustment to any wrist size. Further, inside the 11mm thin dive watch is a COSC-certified movement. It’s a Sellita SW300-1 with 56 hours of power reserve.

15. Ole Mathiesen Navy Diver 40 (ref. OM12.40A1.NA)

Starts from approximately $2,500

At just 10mm thick, the Ole Mathiesen Navy Diver 40 (ref. OM12.40A1.NA) is one of the thinnest dive watches on the market. But some of its features are less impressive than other thin dive watches on the list. Particularly, the 12-bar water resistance rating is too low. There are thinner watches with higher water resistance. So don’t attempt submerging this watch into deep waters. 

Despite its low water resistance, it is still one of the best thin dive watches on the market. The black dial is accented with white luminous indices allowing easy readability. And the case also has a tough crystal made from scratch-proof convex sapphire.

Conclusion

There are plenty of options if you’re in the market to own your first stylish and functional thin dive watch or add to your collection. But options start to shrink when you have a size, thickness, and design in mind. Otherwise, getting lost in a sea of slim dive watches is easy, and buying all or nothing is possible.

Regardless of the size or features you prioritize, you’ll find that these 15 models are the best options for your budget. Hopefully, this list informs you of the best thin dive watch for your style or points you to suitable alternatives.

Toughest Watches You Can Buy

Modern timekeeping by virtue of mechanical clocks was first introduced during the 13th century. Since then, innovation has taken its natural course to make timekeeping far more accessible to us. 

With the pursuit of accuracy and reliability, timekeeping devices have consistently evolved into more robust, tougher, and better-built instruments in the modern day. They have become essential tools capable of being used in the harshest and most alien environments known to man.

About Tough Watches

Prior to the 20th century, watches were mainly used by aristocrats and carried in a pocket in the form of pocket watches. They are now considered delicate, simply revealing that technology and modern use cases for timekeeping were not invented back then. 

By 1904, this changed with the launch of the Cartier Santos Dumont, the first wristwatch, pilot’s watch, and, as a result, the first tough tool watch.

Wartime would inspire more tool-oriented innovation across watchmakers to produce watches that could survive the elements. “Trench watches”, as they called them, became essential tools for survival. Water resistance was in its infancy during this era, with watchmakers like Hamilton experimenting with Canteen-styled crowns.

In 1953, we saw the dawning of the first dive watches invented by Blancpain and Rolex. The world’s fascination with underwater exploration proved to be the ultimate test of the toughness of wristwatches. To this day, water resistance is an essential characteristic of a tough watch.

By today’s standards, a tough watch must be built with durable materials, be antimagnetic, accurate, shock-resistant, water-resistant, and have its form follow function. Technology today has made tough watches abundant for us; their purpose, however, may vary based on their use case.

What to Look for When Buying Tough Watches

Aficionados will be familiar with identifying the unique characteristics watches of today make available to us in the form of toughness. Many popular models – like the Submariner, Explorer, Seamaster, SKX, and many more that have now become versatile daily drivers – have a proven tool watch DNA that often inspires and reassures our purchase.

Design & Materials

When considering the design and the materials used for tough watches, both characteristics must go hand in hand with the notion that form follows function. Tough watches are easy to identify for their intended purpose, be it diving, flight, fieldwork, or exploration. 

They are made available with different features such as dive or navigation bezels, crown guards or protectors, legible dials (with lume), protective grills, straps or bracelets, and rugged case shapes or sizes to withstand the elements it was designed for. 

Materials also stretch the imagination with variations in steels, bronzes, plastics, rubber, titanium, ceramics, and carbon composites in order to complement their design, purpose, look, and feel.

Build Quality & Durability

Build quality and durability in the form of case construction, accuracy, anti-magnetism, shock resistance, water resistance, and anti-corrosion are key aspects to consider when buying a tough watch. 

Even some $100 resin G-Shock models have carbon core guards for increased toughness, rigidity, and durability over time. Superior water resistance is usually the most favored characteristic in this segment, as higher water resistance often boasts a higher level of engineering implemented into a watch case design.

Price

Technology has made tough watches far more accessible in terms of price, with many variations of timepieces that can perform a challenging task or live a tough life. 

It may be a manual-wind Panerai or even a digital G-Shock Mudmaster; if your budget is deep or shallow, you can still match the specifications and get equal amounts of toughness with different novelties to be enjoyed by different watchmakers.

15 Toughest Watches in the Market

With that said, let’s have a look at the 15 best tough watches you can buy today:

Timex Ironman Original 30 Shock

The Ironman Original 30 Shock is a digital watch designed with outdoor athletes in mind and inspired by the original 1986 Ironman model offered by Timex. In its heyday, this was the Apple Watch Ultra, but today, it can be considered a timeless essential with its “unimposing” retro design, feature set, and price (of only $70).

It comes equipped with three main functions: a countdown timer, an Indiglo light-up dial (invented by Timex in the 90s), and an alarm function. For many, this will be all they need in terms of functionality. It has a 42mm resin case inspired in design by minimalism, a simple black/grey colorway, and uses pops of yellow text hinting at its outdoor-appropriate sportiness.

It is attached to a resin strap, making it perfect for outdoor activities and contributing to a weightless wearing experience. It is also water-resistant to 200 meters, making it suitable for almost any sports environment.

Casio G-Shock Mudmaster GWG-2000

The GWG-2000 is the ultimate G-Shock, built to endure the harshest field environments. As its name implies, the Mudmaster’s party trick is its Mud-Resist structure push-buttons (now improved) that will never allow any mud, grit, sand, or concrete to enter your watch. 

This is the newest iteration of the Mudmaster, replacing the GWG-1000. In its evolution, it is now 1.9mm slimmer and 13 grams lighter than its predecessor, thanks to the usage of a carbon core guard structure—new to this series—that also improves its overall strength. 

It is the first G-Shock to feature forged carbon components, contributing to its lightness, toughness, and supercar-like aesthetics. Its rugged exterior design is inspired by professional gear, with fine texturing on its resin band, checked surface texture on its crown, and ribbed guards to protect its front buttons, amplifying its toughness.

Not only is it built and looks ready for the battlefield, but it also has an endless toolbox of features that you can count on when you need them most. Other aesthetically tough features include its sapphire glass and a highly legible (analog/digital) fully lumed dial with a “Super Illuminator” double LED light. Being one of Casio’s flagship models, it will cost you $800.

Victorinox I.N.O.X. Professional Diver (ref. 241813.2)

Victorinox is world-famous for its knives and tools. They also make tool watches, and for their 130th anniversary, they decided to make a watch that symbolizes and celebrates the tough tool ethos of the brand.

To achieve this, they devised a series of 130 extreme homologation tests, including a 10-meter drop resistance test, a temperature shock resistance test, and an 8-ton pressure resistance test (driving a 64-ton tank over a watch). The result was the I.N.O.X watch collection, standing for “Impact Neutralizing Object for the Xtremes”.

The 241813 is a Quartz Professional Diver variant, water resistant to 200m, that is ISO-625 certified. It is characterized by a chunky design with bulky dimensions of 45mm x 14mm, made entirely of sandblasted titanium, with crown guards and a 60-minute graduated unidirectional dive bezel with deep beveling reminiscing an octagonal shape for easy manipulation. 

Protected by sapphire crystal, it has a unique blue camouflage dial, fully lumed, with legible round and square numerals. Paying tribute to its nautical roots, it is equipped with a paracord strap that fits securely over a wetsuit. It also comes with a rubber strap. This watch is now discontinued (replaced with a steel variant) and can be found for upwards of $600. 

Citizen Promaster Tough (ref. BN0211-50E)

The Promaster Tough is a field watch from Citizen with a spec sheet that fully lives up to its name. It features a monocoque case made of a 2-piece construction without needing a caseback, offering extreme rigidity, shock resistance, and anti-magnetism.

It also uses a “Super Titanium” coating on its steel case and bracelet, making it 5 times harder than traditional stainless steel. With a 42mm diameter case featuring a flat raised bezel and crown guards, it offers the sportiness and legibility expected of a tough field watch.

Yet, thanks to its slimness of only 10.1mm and its well-made h-link bracelet, it is extremely versatile and can easily slide under a cuff. Protected by a sapphire crystal, its black, fully lumed dial adds to its versatility with an elegant and clean approach to its design.

Housed inside is Citizens own Eco-Drive technology (solar), allowing it to run purely on light. This is a discontinued model with an original retail price of $495.

Luminox Bear Grylls Survival Series 3741

The Bear Grylls Survival Series 3741 is an outdoor timepiece that embodies British adventurer Bear Grylls “survival” lifestyle. Made by Luminox, a brand that is famous for its cutting-edge luminosity and has been a partner of the Navy Seals for over 25 years, its watches have proven to be so tough and capable that they are considered “first-line gear”. 

The 3741 is a quartz-powered watch equipped with a chronograph function, a date, and a removable compass attached to its rubber strap. It sports an all-black aesthetic, with hints of orange and white adding contrast and sportiness. 

It has a 45mm by 14mm case made of Carbonox, a carbon composite that is six times lighter than steel and three times lighter than titanium and is shock and scratch-resistant. Attached is a matching Carbonox notched dive bezel that has 60-minute indications, a tachymeter scale, and a lume pip at zero.

Under its sapphire crystal is an intricate dial with a three-register chronograph layout and a date window at 6 o’clock. What is special about the Luminox lume is that it uses tritium gas tubes, providing a constant glow for up to 25 years. This watch is priced at $995. 

Marathon Official USMC Pilot’s Navigator (ref. WW194013BK)

Since 1941, Marathon has been supplying watches and timing instruments to the allied forces for military use. It operates from Canada, producing its timepieces in Switzerland. The Pilot’s Navigator was created in the 1980s as an answer to the U.S. armed forces, whose pilots needed a legible watch in the cockpit that was able to handle pressure changes and g-forces endured during flight.

This model is fully made with High-Impact Composite Fibreshell, finished in a matte black that gives it a stealth aesthetic. Its case is 41mm by 14mm, attached to a nato-strap, and offers versatility in its sizing due to its block construction, which helps the lugs feel like part of the case.

The case is asymmetrical, rounded off at 3 o’clock, allowing it to act as a crown guard. Its bezel is bi-directional with white contrasting 12-hour markings and a lume pip at 12 o’clock. Under its sapphire crystal is a black dial with white contrasting Arabic numerals in a 12-hour and 24-hour (military) layout.

It also features a date window at 4.30 and a red-tipped (fighter plane-shaped) second hand. It is powered by a quartz movement and is 50m water resistant. This watch is available for civilians to purchase for $480.

Damasko DSub50

Damasko, founded in 1994, has a history of making high-performance materials for the aviation industry; they also supplied watch cases to Sinn. The DSub50 is a heavily engineered serious dive watch from the German watchmaker, featuring a case made of austenitic German submarine steel, which is nearly twice the strength of regular steel, highly corrosion-resistant, and anti-magnetic.

It has a 43mm by 12.6mm case, and it wears smaller due to its short, steep lugs, allowing its rubber strap to contour to smaller wrists. Its case and bezel are coated fully with black DAMEST, and its uni-directional dive bezel has contrasting white 60-minute indications with a lume pip at zero. 

Under its sapphire crystal, it is complemented with a matching black dial (fully lumed), with white contrasting hands and markings, and without unnecessary text beside the brand logo, making it highly legible. There is a date window at 4.30 o’clock in black that also blends in well. It has an overall very clean design and makes for a serious-looking dive watch, perfect on a dark wetsuit.

This model is water-resistant to 300m and has a screw-in crown that can be used underwater. It is powered by the Damasko caliber A26-2 (with a 42-hour power reserve). It comes at a price of approximately $2,700, offering value for its uncompromising engineering and design. It is what we call a no-nonsense tool watch.

Hamilton Khaki BeLOWZERO (ref. H78585333)

Launched in 2008, the now-updated BeLOWZERO has become a mainstay in Hamilton’s Khaki collection. Many would know this watch to feature in two recent blockbuster films, The Martian, its main character, and Tenet, in which it was part of the narrative. They were sci-fi action plots set in the future, a tribute to the tough and futuristic design personality of this timepiece.

Made fully of titanium that is DLC-coated, in a case size of 46mm by 15.7mm, it is a large dive watch offering an incredible 1,000m of water resistance. Its design is submarine inspired, with 4 hex screws dominating the corners of its cushion-shaped case. 

It comes equipped with a rugged yet simple dive bezel. To reduce its visual heft, its crown guards are sunken into the profile of its case, and it also has short lugs. They are double stemmed, offering extra protection to the rubber strap it comes attached to. 

The combination of its lightweight titanium case, short lugs, and rubber strap allows the piece to wear smaller than its dimensions would suggest. It uses an H10 Movement with an 80-hour power reserve. It is priced at $1,845, great value for a super tough dive watch with movie credibility.

Sinn UX EZM 2B (ref. 403.030)

Sinn is a German tool watch brand that does not rely on a lot of marketing, yet they are hugely respected within the watch community for making the most incredible and over-engineered tool watches. The Sinn UX EZM 2B is no exception and is arguably the most hardcore dive watch on the market.

Its case, bezel, and bracelet are made entirely of German U-Boat steel (submarine steel), which is twice the hardness of regular 316L steel, scratch-resistant, and highly anti-corrosive. Its dive-bezel is TEGIMENTED (carbon diffused) and 1,200 Vickers hard, offering even more scratch resistance (nearly three times) than the rest of the watch. 

It is also a captive bezel, which means it is held on by screws rather than snapped on, making it more resilient to hard hits. The watch is completely media blasted, and due to its U-Boat steel, it has a champagne hue. Its dial is matte black, fully lumed, with white and red contrasts. The watch overall is easily recognizable and versatile for even a civilian lifestyle.

It has a case diameter of 44mm, purposefully sized to be legible underwater. With the HYDRO technology, it is one of the only timepieces outside of Ressence that is completely oil-filled, therefore having zero distortion to its dial and making it incredibly resistant to depth pressure.

This allows for a monstrous water resistance of 5,000m with a svelte case thickness of only 13.3mm. It is quartz-powered and has a price of $2,700. It is a watch so good that it has a cult following.

Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital II (ref. DC3036C-SA-BK)

Ball was founded in the United States in 1891 and made a name for itself by establishing the Railroad Standard, a timekeeping standard that was relied upon for the safe operation of the railroad industry. Today, Ball is a Swiss brand that produces its watches in Switzerland.

The Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital II is Ball’s expression of the ultimate explorer’s watch. It has a titanium case measures 45mm in diameter and 18.3mm in thickness. It is attached to a well-built titanium bracelet with a folding buckle and extension system, with great articulation and fitment on the wrist.

It is powered by an Automatic-Caliber BALL RR1404, which is essentially an ETA Valjoux 7750, modified to include a GMT function. Under a 3mm thick sapphire crystal, it has a black dial sporting a vertical 3-register chronograph layout with contrasting silver numerals, hands, an additional navigation scale, and an independent 24-hour scale in orange to match its orange GMT hand. 

Additionally, there is a date window at 3 o’clock with a magnifier lens for easy readability. Ball is famous for using tritium gas tubes, 39 of which are used on this model and feature on its hands, hour markers, and even its chronograph pushers.

Besides being antimagnetic and water-resistant to 100m, it features an Amoriser shock system to protect its movement in high-shock environments. This model is now discontinued and had an original retail price of $5,300.

Breitling Aerospace Evo (ref. E79363101B1E1)

Originally launched in 1985, the Aerospace was a super-accurate flight watch. It used an analog and digital display to provide a wide range of information that was impossible to obtain from an analog-only timepiece. This model is a refreshed iteration, and even today, it can be considered one of the few luxury watches that serve as true professional equipment to be used in the cockpit.

It is a titanium offering with a case diameter of 43mm, making it highly legible and sporty in appearance. It has a thickness of only 10.8mm, offering incredible versatility in wearing it even under a cuff. It is attached to Breitling’s Professional 3 bracelet with diagonal links that are iconic to the brand. It comes equipped with a unidirectional diving bezel attached by screws, offering more resistance to hits, which will be useful underwater with its 100m water resistance.

Its analog black dial is lumed, which helps with legibility in low-light conditions. It is complemented by two backlit digital displays that offer a host of information, such as a 1/100th of a second chronograph, perpetual calendar, countdown timer, 2nd timezone, alarm, and minute repeater, that can be operated in a user-friendly manner via its crown. 

Powering its technology is a SuperQuartz movement that is chronometer-certified and thermocompensated. It is currently discontinued and had an original retail price of approximately $4,400.

Tudor Pelagos (ref. M25600TB-0001)

The Pelagos, equipped with a snowflake dial, is the model that champions the legacy of the iconic Snowflake Submariner. It features a 42mm by 14.4mm titanium case equipped with a helium escape valve and pointed crown guards (lending aesthetics to vintage Snowflake Submariners).

It is attached to a titanium bracelet with an extension-equipped clasp. As a result, it is extra lightweight and offers a high-quality wearing experience for daily use or diving. Also included is a diving rubber strap.

This model is available in a phenomenal shade of blue, an updated tone of the color made popular by its Snowflake predecessor. It is equipped with a scratch-resistant matte ceramic dive-bezel that is fully lumed, combined with a fully lumed stepped dial using snowflake indexes, snowflake hands, and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

The benefit of the snowflake layout is that it allows for less negative space on the dial and more surface area for luminosity. As a fully-lumed watch, it offers ultimate legibility in low-light conditions, fitting for a high-performance diver.

It is equipped with an in-house MT-5612 (COSC) calibre with a useful 70-hour power reserve. With a retail price of $5,000, it is an incredibly versatile and well-designed offering that is great value for money, something Tudor has built a reputation for.

Omega Speedmaster X-33 Marstimer (ref. 318.90.45.79.01.003)

The first X-33 released in 1998 was a revolution of the iconic Moonwatch. Developed, tested, and qualified by the ESA (European Space Agency), it was more capable for NASA astronauts and cosmonauts to perform onboard activities on the International Space Station.

It was also dubbed the “Mars watch”. The X-33 Marstimer is Omega’s fourth attempt in this series. The difference from its predecessors is that it now tracks Mars time. The Marstimer borrows its design from the original Moonwatch. Like its X-33 predecessors, it sports a 45mm by 14.9mm case in Grade-2 titanium attached to a Grade-2 and 5 titanium five-link bracelet.

It has a new rotatable anodized aluminum bezel in a red hematite color meant to be reminiscent of the dust on Mars. This color can be found on its upper left pusher as well as on its black-to-red second hand. Like all X-33s, its main design cue is its analog and digital display, which allows for a vast number of functions.

New to this model is a Mars Time Coordinated function (accounting for 39 minutes and 35 seconds longer days on Mars than on Earth) and a solar compass, which allows tracking of true north on both Earth and Mars. It is powered by the Omega-5622. With a retail price of $6,400, this is a bold chapter in the space exploration legacy of the Speedmaster.

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 (ref. 226627-0001)

The Yacht-Master is an alternate luxury diver from Rolex, embodying its ties with the sport of sailing. Released in 2023, the Yacht-Master 42 arrives as the brand’s second-only titanium offering, featuring a case and bracelet made fully of its proprietary RLX titanium.

Its 42mm case has a thickness of 11.6mm, with wonderfully integrated crown guards that are among the best seen in the industry. The case returns to chamfered edges, reminiscent of the aesthetics seen on the brand’s vintage models. Its bezel is bi-directional, with a matte black ceramic insert and raised polished numerals. 

This is matched to a matte black dial (fully lumed) that retains the famous and legible Submariner style template, with round plots and a Mercedes hand in white gold. Its markings are maxi-sized, offering more visibility than traditional Submariners due to its larger dial. 

It is fitted to an Oyster bracelet that is fully brushed like its case. Almost anything with an Oyster bracelet can be praised for its articulation and wearability; combined with its slim and proportional case and all-titanium construction (nearly 50% lighter than a regular steel 40mm Yacht-Master), this watch over-delivers. 

It is equipped with an in-house 3235 calibre, which is a Superlative Chronometer with a 70-hour power reserve. With a retail price of $14,000, it stands as a revolutionary model in the Rolex lineup, not shying away from experimentation to deliver us a truly modern luxury tool watch. It is quite a looker, fit for a luxury yacht or a sports yacht.

Panerai Submersible Marina Militare Carbotech™ (ref. PAM02979

Panerai’s inception as a watchmaker was influenced by the needs of tough men. It was in 1936 that the Italian Royal Navy commissioned the company to build a watch for their frogmen, who needed a way of keeping time in the murky depths.

These men rode torpedoes like bicycles as a means of competing with their Allies’ warships during WWII. Fast-forward to today and the Submersible serves as its true professional dive watch. The PAM02979 carries the form factor of the Luminor it was originally based on.

It carries the iconic security lock on the side of its case, which offers more impact protection than a simple shouldered crown. It has a 60-minute dive bezel and 300m of water resistance, two features reserved just for this model.

As a template for advanced engineering, this model is made of forged carbon, which is also used on the dial, giving it a tactical look that suits the hardcore nature of the watch. Its dial is clean and legible, featuring full lume. There is a date window at 3 o’clock and a small second counter at 9 o’clock. 

The watch is 47mm in diameter, a large size that will fit perfectly on a wetsuit or offer heavy wrist presence. It is attached via a quick-release system to a rubber strap with bellows and a pattern molded in to give it flexibility and a rugged look. It comes equipped with an automatic P.9010 calibre with a 3-day power reserve. $20,000 plus tax is the price to pay for the quintessential dive watchmaker’s most advanced piece.

Conclusion

As we venture into the unknown, our timepieces have now become vessels for our memories. Many watchmakers have built legacies on the journeys their creations have endured on pioneers’ wrists.  Innovation, a storied history, and sheer diversity in the application of modern-day timepieces reassure us that they can not only handle the harshest of elements but can even save our lives if needed.

15 telemeter watches

Telemetry can be defined as using specialized equipment to send, receive, and measure data over a long distance. The equipment for the purposes of this article is the wristwatch. We will be reviewing 15 of the best telemeter chronograph watches.

Before we jump into the background of telemeter watches, watch complications are often focused on aesthetic design rather than function. As a result of modern technology, such as smartphones and smartwatches, wristwatches have become obsolete. 

For example, scuba divers typically use dive computers rather than dive watches for timing purposes. However, this is not to say wristwatches with interesting complications should no longer be produced. So let’s begin the journey of highlighting telemeter scale watches. 

About Telemeter Watches

The telemeter scale is based on the speed of sound in relation to distance, an example being calculating the distance from when the event first becomes visible to when it becomes audible. You may use a telemeter scale with a chronograph watch to determine your distance in various situations. Thus, telemeter scales tend to go hand in hand with chronographs due to the multiple timing capabilities.

Telemeter Watches Purpose

Soldiers used telemeter watches during World War II as it allowed them to determine their distance from their target. For example, a soldier would fire missiles and start the chronograph timer. Once the soldier heard the target being hit by the missile, they would stop the timer.

They would then read the telemeter scale of the wristwatch, and the reading would allow the soldier to know the distance they are from the target that was hit. Another instance where the telemeter scale may be used is to measure a lightning storm.

For example, one would start the chronograph once the flash of lighting can be seen and then stop once the sound is heard. The chronograph hand lines up with the telemeter scale, and one would then read the scale and know how far away the storm is.

The Best Telemeter Watches

Now let’s look at the specific telemeter watches.

Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope (ref. 329.30.43.51.03.001)

Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope (ref. 329.30.43.51.03.001)

With all the recent commotion of the Omega MoonSwatch, the Speedmaster Chronoscope is a breath of fresh air because this is a Speedmaster without the hype. This timepiece combines the Speedmaster Moonwatch with Omega Chronographs of the 1940s. Our focus here will be the steel version of the Chronoscope.

The Chronoscope comes in at 43mm in diameter, 13.22mm thick, 48mm lug-to-lug length, and a lug width of 21mm. It wears excellently given the larger dimensions; the lug-to-lug length allows it to be maintainable on the wrist for medium to smaller-sized wrists. 

Also, the watch comes in three dial variants in the stainless steel models, a blue dial with silver sub-dials, a silver dial, and a panda configuration (silver dial with black sub-dial layout). The Chronoscope uses a two-register sub-dial layout with a snail dial design in the center.

The movement housed in this timepiece is the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 9908. It is accurate to between 0 and +5 seconds per day variance, making this the most accurate watch movement on the list.

The only negative is the odd 21mm lug width, as 21mm straps are more difficult to source. Either way, this watch looks best on the stainless steel bracelet that Omega created.

Overall, I feel that Omega has produced a fine timepiece that strays slightly off the path from your standard Speedy watch. The Omega Chronoscope is priced at $8,600 (leather strap) or $9,000 (steel bracelet)  

Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Chronograph (ref. 5975R-001)

Patek Philippe 175th Anniversary Chronograph (ref. 5975R-001)

Patek Philippe is part of the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking and arguably the best watchmaker in the world. They are also renowned for their complications, including annual calendars, moon phases, and chronographs. 

The particular model we will review is the 175th Anniversary Chronograph in rose gold. Patek produced only 400 models in the rose gold version, making it an extremely sought watch, and even now, it rarely appears on the secondary market.

In terms of case sizing, the Patek is compact for a chronograph with a diameter of 40mm and 10.25mm thick. This means that it is extremely wearable for daily wear and can easily tuck under a tight cuff. 

The movement within the 5975R-001 is the caliber 28-520 base. This caliber maintains a power reserve of up to 55 hours. This movement features a column wheel and a flyback function that allows for continuous timing capability.

These features come together uniformly and establish the 5975R-001 as a premium chronograph and appropriate for the 175th anniversary edition timepiece. A critique of this timepiece would be its availability, given that it is an anniversary edition and is limited. Thus, if you intend to purchase this, the secondary market would be your best option.

Longines Telemeter Chronograph (ref. L2.780.4.18.2)

Longines Telemeter Chronograph (ref. L2.780.4.18.2)

Longines has an illustrious history dating all the way back to 1832. They were once considered a rival to Rolex before the Quartz Crisis, but times have changed. Nonetheless, this means that Longines has a rich heritage in its archives to refer to. Many of Longines’ recent releases have been stunning, and the Telemeter Chronograph is no different.

The design of the Telemeter timepiece is based on a chronograph watch produced by Longines in 1933. The watch measures a round case of 41mm and houses the Caliber L688, an automatic movement with a column-wheel chronograph. The column wheel within the movement makes this timepiece special, as this typically appears in high-end chronographs.

The Telemeter Chronograph features a sapphire crystal and an exhibition case to view the movement. The timepiece’s dial features a three-register sub-dial layout with a 4:30 date position. The dial is white lacquered with black numerals. The watch features blue steel Breguet hands that exude elegance and finesse.

A few negatives of this watch are the lack of water resistance and the date wheel. This watch is 30m water resistant, which means, at most, you can wear it while washing your hands. The second is subjective; the date wheel is positioned at 4:30 and is awkward. 

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Chronograph (ref. T142.462.16.032.00)

Tissot Telemeter 1938 Chronograph (ref. T142.462.16.032.00)

Tissot is currently hitting it out of the park with its heritage-inspired pieces, and this includes the Telemeter 1938 Chronograph. This timepiece is exquisite in design. It features a two-register sub-dial layout, measuring running seconds and chronograph minutes.

Two dial variants are available, black with gilt accents and a silver dial with blue hands. The watch is 42mm in diameter, 13.9mm in thickness, and 22mm lug width. The chronograph pushers are ovular in shape. There is no lume on the dial.

Thus, these design elements make it a dressier design. The timepiece features a sapphire crystal and an exhibition case for the wearer to marvel at or show others, as this could be a conversation starter.

The numbers and sizing lean towards a medium to large wrist size. However, I recommend trying on the watch in person before making a decision. The price of the watch is $2,025.00

Oris Big Crown Telemeter Chronograph (ref. 01 674 7569 4064-07 5 21 56)

Oris Big Crown Telemeter Chronograph (ref. 01 674 7569 4064-07 5 21 56)

The Big Crown series of Oris watches was built to be used as pilot military watches. The Telemeter Chronograph within the Big Crown series seems very fitting due to the nature of the telemeter scale and its association with the military. 

This is a true tool watch in form and function. Each detail of this watch has a reason for it, from the lume to the plexiglass crystal and more. We will highlight some of the key features below.

The Oris is 43mm in diameter, 21mm lug width, and features an exterior telemeter bezel insert. The crystal is actually a plexi-domed material; this harkens to vintage watches. 

I’ll add that plexiglass may scratch easily, but you can buff out scratches with Polywatch and a microfiber cloth. The large crown allows wearers with gloves to access and wind the movement. So, Oris considered a variety of users when creating this timepiece.

Negatives of this Oris timepiece are the odd lug width of 21mm and the lack of water resistance at 3 bar. One would hope that a military field watch could withstand harsh environments and be able to take a beating on the battlefield. The watch is priced at $2,025.00 

Eterna 1940 Chronograph Telemeter (ref. 7950.78.54.1261)

Eterna 1940 Chronograph Telemeter (ref. 7950.78.54.1261)

Eterna has had a significant impact on the watch industry. Without Eterna, there would be no ETA and no Swatch Group dominance within the watch industry. So we should appreciate their existence along with their Chronograph Telemeter timepiece.

This timepiece screams 1940s design and takes the wearer back to when watches were utilitarian tools. The telemeter has a case diameter of 42mm and 14.1mm thickness. It features a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating, making it less reflective when worn outdoors or under intense lighting.

The Telemeter features large rectangular pushers and a large crown for easy access. There are two variants, one with a black dial and gilt accents and the other with a black dial and silvery white accents.

The movement is unique as it is a flyback chronograph. This means that the user can reset the chronograph timer without stopping it, which is convenient when timing something continuously. In my opinion, this is a beautiful timepiece.

The case is curvaceous, and it wears comfortably on the wrist. However, a couple of critiques are that it may be difficult to find an authorized dealer to try on Eterna watches and the 4:30 date wheel that disrupts the symmetry of the dial.

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 (ref. CAR221A .FC6353)

TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18 (ref. CAR221A .FC6353)

The Carrera and Monaco are icons of TAG Heuer. But the Carrera Calibre 18 will be in the spotlight here. The Carrera has all the features you would want from TAG Heuer. There is no “TAG” on the dial; the dial features a panda configuration (silvery dial with two grayish sub-dial registers) and multi-faceted lugs associated with the Carrera case. 

Also, this watch is extremely wearable compared to the Monaco, which wears large due to the flat case back and slab-like sides. Let’s inspect the details of the Carrera.

The Carrera watch wears svelte with a 39mm case diameter. It features a sapphire crystal for protection. The dial layout is clean and simple with minimal information on the dial. The Carrera features a date wheel at the 6 o’clock position, which can easily be missed, thus maintaining symmetry on this gorgeous yet simple dial. 

The watch is 100m water resistant, which is a nice feature to have as it means you can technically swim with it. Overall, this timepiece maintains lovely vintage styling in modern form.

A negative aspect of this Carrera model is that it is discontinued. So, you would have to source this from a third party or secondary market.

Zenith Captain Chronograph (ref. 03.2117.4002/23.C704)

Zenith Captain Chronograph (ref. 03.2117.4002/23.C704)

Zenith is known for creating one of the first automatic chronograph movements in 1969, the El Primero. But Zenith is also known for their military pilot watches; we will inspect one of them here. 

The Captain Chronograph features a dual-register sub-dial layout. Therefore, unlike the typical three sub-dial layout, it is extremely legible, and the dial is not cluttered. There is plenty of lume on the dial of this Zenith to make it ideal for activities in the skies.

The watch measures 42mm in diameter, 12.5mm in thickness, and 50.2mm lug-to-lug length and features a sapphire crystal and an exhibition case back to view the gorgeous automatic movement. 

The winding crown is large for easy gripping, and the chronograph pushers are rectangular with vintage styling. The case of the Zenith is mainly brushed with very little polishing, which is appropriate as this is not a dress watch.

The Zenith features the 4002 caliber movement that allows for approximately 52 hours of power reserve and is a high-beat movement. An interesting aspect of this particular El Primero movement is that the second position of the crown (typically associated with adjusting the time) allows the user to adjust the date. 

Junghans Meister Telemeter (ref. 27/3380.02)

Junghans Meister Telemeter (ref. 27/3380.02)

Within Junghans, there are two iconic collections, the Max Bill and Meister collection. For this list, we will be looking at the latter collection, specifically the Telemeter chronograph watch. 

This modern watch draws inspiration from Junghans’ first telemeter and tachymeter scale chronograph watch created in 1951. The Meister Telemeter is a vintage style yet features a casual enough appearance. It is available in a black dial as well as a silvery white dial variant.

The case of the watch measures 40.8mm in diameter and 12.6mm thick. It comes with the option of a steel bracelet or leather band. I recommend the stainless steel bracelet because it is easier to source a good aftermarket strap than a bracelet. 

The watch comes with a domed sapphire crystal and exhibition case back, showing off the nicely decorated movement. The chronograph pushers are ovular in shape. It is also 50m water resistant, which is not bad for a dressier chronograph watch. Having experienced this watch in Asia, photos do not do it justice.

The sapphire crystal is highly domed, and it wears very comfortably on the wrist due to the compact case profile and slimness of the watch. I was tempted to purchase it at the time but held back. The watch retails for €2,290.00

Alpina Alpiner Chronograph (ref. AL-750SG4E6)

Alpina Alpiner Chronograph (ref. AL-750SG4E6)

Alpina is associated with classically styled sports and tool watches. The Alpiner Chronograph is part of that heritage. The Alpiner Chronograph is similar to the Heuer Carrera mentioned above as it features a silver dial with two grayish sub-dials.

The difference is that the sub-dials here are in a vertical arrangement, thus adding a nice touch to differentiate it from other chronograph watches. The case size is 41mm in diameter, and there is a sapphire crystal protecting the watch dial.

Upon first inspection, it appears that this Alpiner is a two-register sub-dial arrangement; however, it features three sub-dials. The running seconds sub-dial is nicely camouflaged at the 9 o’clock position. There is also a date wheel at the 6 o’clock position.

Despite the layout arrangement, this watch appears symmetrical. Moreover, a great added design element is the pump-style chronograph pushers. This is just tempting the wearer to start the chronograph timer of this timepiece.

Although this watch is discontinued in production, it is possible to source this through the secondary market, given the lack of demand for the brand. But a positive is that it can be bought at a bargain price.

Dan Henry 1939 Military Chronograph

Dan Henry 1939 Military Chronograph

Dan Henry is a well-known watch collector within the community. He set out to create great-looking watches with vintage styling. He also intended these watches to be accessible and affordable to a large audience. One of those timepieces is the 1939 military chronograph. 

According to Dan Henry, he wished to pay tribute to chronograph watches of the 1930s because of their beautiful dials, along with the vast amount of information on the dials. Surprisingly, Dan Henry watches offer enough variations in their watch models that will likely suit a lot of people. Let’s inspect the 1939 chronograph in more detail below.

In terms of sizing, the case measures 41mm in diameter, 13.9mm in thickness, and 49.2mm in lug length. The watch features a 22mm lug width, so you can easily swap out the strap for a host of aftermarket options. Thus, this watch wears beautifully and comfortably on the wrist. 

The timepiece features a sapphire crystal and is available with two dial color options; chocolate with gilts accents and silver with blue accents. There are two sub-dial registers on the dial. Also, date and no-date options are available for this timepiece, but I am drawn toward symmetry, so I’d recommend the no-date version.

Also, might I add that this is also the most affordable of all the watches discussed today due to it housing a quartz movement manufactured by Miyota. Lastly, the 1939 chronograph is limited in production so get them while you still can. The watch is priced at $270.00 

Hanhart Pioneer TachyTele

Hanhart Pioneer TachyTele

The Hanhart Pioneer TachyTele has a military history that dates back to 1939. According to Hanhart, the watch’s name comes from the two sets of scales on the dial, the tachymeter (used for measuring speed) and the telemeter. 

The Hanhart’s lower chronograph pusher has a distinctive red covering, and this was introduced in 1938 as a warning mechanism to prevent pilots from resetting the stop timer. The red color on the pusher was previously a red lacquer painted over the chronograph pusher, but it is now manufactured out of ceramic/ plastic to ensure longevity.

The Pioneer wears remarkably well, given the case diameter of 40mm and 15mm thick. The watch features a sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating. The dial is available in off-white or black; both colors contrast well and are easily readable. 

The ETA 7753 automatic movement is the watch’s heartbeat, with 42 hours of power reserve. This is a good, tried, and tested movement. Overall this is a solid timepiece with excellent build quality, and it will impress the wearer.

I find it difficult to criticize this timepiece as it is a “Swiss Army Knife” given the 100m water resistance, screw-down case back, lumed hands, and numerals, along with a fluted rotating bezel. This is as much of a tool watch as one could buy without many compromises. Pricing of this watch starts at €1,990.00 

Poljot Strela Chronograph (ref. OF38CYS)

Poljot Strela Chronograph (ref. OF38CYS)

Many may have not heard of the brand Poljot Strela since the brand comes from Russia. The Poljot Strela Chronograph’s greatest claim to fame is being the first watch to go to space on the 18th of March, 1965, as it was used during the mission. 

So this is Russia’s equivalent of the Speedmaster Moonwatch. This was significant at that time because Russia was engaged with the USA in the Cold War and the “Space Race”.

The Poljot Chronograph watch has a case diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 14.8mm, and a lug-to-lug length of 46mm, thus making it a very compact and wearable watch on the wrist. The dial of the watch is white with a two-register sub-dial layout. The dial is unique as it features multiple concentric circle patterns on the main center dial and sub-dials.

The movement contained within the watch is the Poljot manual winding Caliber 3133. The movement can be seen through the exhibition case back. It is nicely decorated with Geneve stripes. The movement features a power reserve of 48 hours, which is decent.

But the magic of manual winding watches is the wearer’s connection with the watch because you need to engage with it by winding it at least every 2 days; otherwise, it will stop.

Although this timepiece is limited to 300 pieces, it is also the most affordable mechanical watch on this list today, coming in at under $900. Several online stores sell this watch from Europe. So, if you are interested in purchasing it, then do some research before taking the “giant leap”. 

RGM 455-CE Classic Chronograph Enamel

RGM 455-CE Classic Chronograph Enamel

RGM is an American watchmaking company that was established in 1992 and coincidentally the year of my birth, making us both 31 years of age at the time of this article. Watches of the 1940s inspired the design of the 455 classic chronograph model. 

The particular model being highlighted is the enamel version. Enamel is a difficult material to work with, and this tends to result in more failures than successes due to the heat treatment applied to the dial. 

However, RGM has performed an outstanding job in their ability to produce the Grand Feu real glass-fired enamel dial. The white enamel dial compliments the steel blue hands. The center of the dial features the snail-like tachymeter scale, adding a subtle touch to this timepiece.

The case size of the watch is 38.2mm and 13.9mm thick. Lug-to-lug length is 47mm, and lug width is 20mm, which ensures plenty of aftermarket strap options. For me, these measurements are the sweet spot, as I prefer watches that are 50mm or under in lug-to-lug length. 

According to RGM, the automatic movement is decorated with Cote de Geneve stripes and perlage finishing. But a downside is that this movement is covered by the stainless steel case back. The watch retails for $7,950.00 

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph (ref. MB125581)

Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph (ref. MB125581)

The final watch is the Montblanc 1858 Monopusher Chronograph. This is arguably the most unique in design and function. As this is a Monopusher chronograph, there is only one pusher on the watch that controls the chronograph timer. The pusher is an extension of the crown. 

In addition, the 1858 line of watches is part of the high-end range of the Minerva watch collection from Montblanc. This collection is gaining more attraction, and what better way to start than with their Monopusher Chronograph.

The timepiece has a 42mm case diameter, and the stainless steel case is finished immaculately with satin brushing. The dial features two tones, namely black and cream/ beige color. There are two sub dials on the dial, making it simple and convenient to read from. 

This watch features a sapphire dome crystal that shows off the vintage style. The timepiece features lume on the handset and numerals. The Monopusher is also 100m water resistant. In my opinion, these features help to make this timepiece a great GADA watch (Go Anywhere Do Anything).

A negative of this watch is the branding; Montblanc watches are not that popular. But this means discounts can be obtained on their timepieces. This Monopusher Chronograph sells for $5,400.00  

Conclusion

In conclusion, watches with telemeter scales are not exactly a new or groundbreaking technology. Those who appreciate the chronograph complication along with the scale will likely do so for aesthetic reasons. The watches listed above are not intended to be a full guide of telemeter scale watches.

But they are a gateway into telemeter timepieces. And to end on a quirky note, John F. Kennedy once stated that “we must use time as a tool, not as a couch”, and so a reminder that watches are made to be used as tools.

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