Author: Andrew O'Connor

Long before the days of glowing indices and hands, telling the time in the dark was a complicated ordeal. Before clocks, sundials obviously were of no use. With the advent of clocks, if there was not enough light to see the time, lighting a flame was the only way to see.

That involved finding a source of flame, something to maintain the flame, and blowing it out when no longer necessary. This tedious task was solved by the idea of telling time with sound. Then, instead of chiming at regular intervals, what if the sound could be recalled on demand? Auditory time-telling was the wave of the future until the prominence of gas lighting and luminescent paint came into being.

A Short Guide to Chiming Watches and Repeaters

Minute repeaters have become a holy grail for many collectors, but there were chiming clocks before there was any sort of repeaters. 

Chiming clocks are clocks that chime the passing of time, usually every hour and sometimes at other intervals, such as every fifteen or thirty minutes. The first chiming clocks appeared in Italy in the 13th century. While many clocks for homes and watches with chiming functions have on-and-off abilities, they do not chime on command. 

Both Edward Barlow and Daniel Quare claimed the invention of the repeating watch before 1700, with the patent filing going in favor of Quare in 1687. However, Edward Barlow’s creation of the rack and snail striking system in 1676 has become the standard for repeating timepieces ever since.

If you imagine a grandfather clock, or even larger, a church clock, certainly the size of the bells and gongs in those clocks are much larger than anything that could fit in a watch. Early repeating watches had small bells in the case, but around 1800, the first wire gongs came into use. Because of their size, watchmakers could fit the repeating complication into much smaller watches. 

Most repeating watches before the 18th century were quarter repeaters, meaning they would repeat the hours and quarter hours. Around 1750, John Ellicot was the first to produce minute repeaters in somewhat large numbers. Minute repeaters chime hours, quarters, and minutes. 

In the 19th century, innovations by Abraham Louis Breguet made the minute repeater more common, but they were still very expensive, and reserved for the most prestigious clients. Around the same time, they also fell out of favor as industrial manufacturing made watchmaking more inexpensive, and gas lighting became widespread. 

Today, chiming watches are still coveted by collectors. Even though they do not serve the practical function they once did, they are still magnificent displays of watchmaking as a craft. 

Difficulty and expense of manufacturing make it so any chiming watch is quite expensive. While module-based complications can make them more affordable, they are still an order of magnitude more expensive compared to other complications. 

Listed below are fifteen modern repeating watches, displaying the best of what these brands have to offer and some of their best creativity alongside audible complications.

15 Best Minute Repeater Watches

1. Patek Philippe 5178G-001

The Patek Philippe 5178G was introduced at Baselworld 2017 and has been discontinued as of Watches and Wonders 2023. Any watch from Patek Philippe is unique, and any complicated watch from Patek Philippe is even more so. With chiming watches, Patek Philippe goes above and beyond in regard to finishing, making every aspect of the piece a considered work of art on its own. 

While the 40mm white gold case appears simple from the front, the slide pusher on the side of the watch reveals the minute repeater complication. What makes the 5178G even more special compared to other repeaters is the use of cathedral gongs in the calibre R 27 PS. 

Cathedral gongs are longer and more difficult to produce than standard gongs used in more conventional repeaters. As a result of the larger gongs, the sound is louder and more resonant. While in production, the retail price was set at 360,000 CHF, but today, prices are dictated by the secondary market. 

2. Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie (ref. 26395BC.OO.D321CR.01)

The Supersonnerie developments from Audemars Piguet started with the RD1 Acoustic Research. The goal of these developments was to produce a minute repeater that not only was acoustically superior in terms of volume and sound quality but also to build a minute repeater that could meet the expectations of durability required for a modern watch. 

To achieve the improvements in sound, Audemars Piguet considers the case a resonant body, similar to an acoustic string instrument. There is space and channels within the case that allow sound to resonate, changing the timbre and the volume of the chimes. 

The gongs are also mounted to a separate resonating soundboard instead of being mounted to the main plate of the movement, as would be the case with a conventional repeater. Finally, the governor has been reworked to act as a shock absorber, making the repeating aspect of the movement much more durable.

The 41mm wide 18k white gold case of the Code 11.59 Minute Repeater Supersonnerie is water resistant to 20 meters, a notable achievement for a repeating watch. Inside is the hand-wound calibre 2953, which includes the Supersonnerie improvements mentioned. 

While the case may present plainly from the front, turning the watch to view from other angles reveals a timepiece that is incredibly architectural in design. The sculpted case and concave crystal make for a quite dynamic design. 

Audemars Piguet has moved away from publishing retail prices for many of its pieces and suggests making an appointment to express interest in this watch. Regardless of how one pursues this watch, the price may be best presented while sitting. 

3. Breguet Tradition 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon

Modern Breguet has little to do with the brand’s namesake, as it is now operated by the Swatch group. Still, they do make an effort to pay tribute to Breguet through pieces like the reference 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon. 

Part of its Tradition collection, the Breguet 7087 combines both a minute repeater and a 60-second tourbillon in a 44mm 18k gold case (either rose or white). While elements of the 7087 keep a traditional style expected from the oldest operating watch brand, the 7087 is a thoroughly modern piece. 

The 565DR uses a peripheral oscillating rotor to wind the automatic movement to its full 80 hours of power reserve, allowing for a full view of the back of the movement. 

The movement is finished and designed to recall Breguet’s early pocket watches, but the bridges are titanium. Numerous components are made of silicon, allowing for magnetic parts to be part of the movement!

The governor for the chime is a series of magnets designed to repel and attract each other at a consistent rate, allowing for the chime to be consistent use after use, and silent. The gongs are mounted on the dial side to the bezel of the watch, allowing for a more efficient transfer of the vibrations.

The hammers can be seen underneath, striking the gongs perpendicularly for efficiency. While looking very steampunk and modern, the transmission chain recalls Breguet’s original pocket watches. The Breguet Tradition 7087 Minute Repeater Tourbillon is really a modern interpretation of Breguet’s innovations as if they asked, “What would Breguet make today if he was still around?”.

It is truly a fascinating watch that is a mechanical enthusiast’s dream. At the time of release in 2015, the Breguet 7087 retailed for 450,000 CHF. 

4. A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater (ref. 606.079)

The A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater is the first minute repeater produced by the brand. Most minute repeaters are made of gold, and even some modern ones are made of other materials due to better resonance.

Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne chose to release this watch in platinum, which is typically thought to sound dull as it is pretty dense and soft. Even if platinum is not ideal, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater shows off what A. Lange & Söhne does best, and that is finishing.

The dial and case are exquisitely finished, with distinct contrasts between brushed and polished surfaces on the case. Complicated watches can become quite large very quickly, but Lange managed to keep things restrained, with the timepiece measuring 39 mm wide and 9.7 mm thick. 

The hand-wound L122.1 movement is truly something to behold. Completely finished by hand, the hand-engraved elements and beautifully chamfered edges are second to none. The governor for the repeater is finely finished, with a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces.

While the repeater is the centerpiece, the governor may steal the show when viewed through the case back, as it spins rapidly when the repeater is engaged. Keeping with the prestige of the brand, the A Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater is priced upon request. 

5. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon Platinum (ref. 6500T/000P-B100)

Vacheron Constantine’s announcement of the Traditionnelle Minute Repeater Tourbillon in 2016 was a big accomplishment. The 2755 TMR movement inside was completely designed, developed, and produced by Vacheron Constantin.

While part of the Holy Trinity of watchmaking, it is not uncommon for any watch company to rely on outside resources to create a new movement. Vacheron was truly flexing their horological mite when releasing this watch.

Combining a tourbillon with a minute repeater is no small feat. While the hand-wound Geneva Seal certified movement and 18,000 bph beat rate point towards old-school watchmaking, the 58-hour power reserve, 44mm wide case, and 30 meters of water resistance are definitive indications of modern advancements. 

The dial features a hand-guilloché motif, and there is a power reserve indicator in the movement, seen through the case back. Another interesting detail is that Vacheron worked the Maltese cross into the design of the tourbillon cage. 

Available exclusively from Vacheron boutiques, the purchaser also receives a resonance boosting holder called “La Musique du Temps.”

6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon (ref. 1313520)

Known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker for their history of supplying some of the best brands with movements and parts, Jaeger-LeCoultre is no stranger to high complications. Having produced over 200 different repeating calibers within their history, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon fits in with their tradition of creating finely crafted timepieces. 

The Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Flying Tourbillon was the thinnest minute repeater ever produced when it was launched in 2014. With the movement measuring 4.8mm thick and the case measuring 7.9mm thick, it may be surprising that the calibre 362 has a platinum peripheral rotor for automatic winding of the watch.

Additionally, the rotor is between the movement and the dial side of the watch, which can be seen through the dial cutouts that double as sound holes for the repeater. To further ensure the best sound possible, Jaeger LeCoultre utilized “trebouchet” hammers that allow the gong to be strong with the greatest force possible.

The gongs are mounted to the sapphire glass to improve acoustic volume. The 41mm case is made of white gold, chosen for the best quality of sound for a precious metal. At the time of release, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater Tourbillon retails for 294,000 Euros. 

7. Blancpain Villeret Minute Repeater Automata White Gold (ref. 6033-1542-55)

If watching the repeater hammers leaves you wanting, the Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Minute Repeater Automata will definitely add some excitement to the owners’ minute repeating enjoyment. Automata, broadly speaking, refers to mechanical objects that complete actions following a set list of instructions.

Minute repeaters themselves are automata. In watchmaking, they generally refer to objects that mimic lifelike movement for the sake of entertainment. During the late 1600s, watchmakers made watches that included moving figures, frequently depicting scenes of human pleasure.

This delighted wealthy clients but did not delight the ruling and religious bodies of Switzerland, resulting in them being banned. Watches found to have lewd scenes depicted were confiscated and destroyed. Erotic automata did not effectively exist until the rebirth of the mechanical watch industry after the quartz crisis.

With modern Blancpain being reborn from this period, they brought back this art form with their Villeret Minute Repeater Automata. Released in 1993, the caliber 332 utilizes cathedral gongs, and the “piece unique” indication on the dial refers to the scene on the back, as each scene is unique to each watch. 

Measuring 37.5mm wide and 10.3mm thick, the conservative front-facing appearance is reinforced by the case dimensions. It is also quite impressive to consider that they managed to fit both the repeater and the automata in a relatively thin case. This reference is still in the current Blancpain catalog and has a retail price of 278,100 USD. 

8. IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater (ref. IW544907)

Minute repeaters are truly amazing feats of engineering and craft, but they almost exclusively carry lofty price tags with them. While the IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater is still pricey at 89,100 USD, it is definitely one of the more affordable minute repeaters when purchased new. 

The 44.2mm wide case is made of 18ct 5n red gold. The manual wound 98950 calibre is an IWC manufacture movement and stays with the Portugieser tradition of a large movement placed in a large case. 

Unfortunately, while the movement is beautifully finished, the showpieces of the minute repeater, the hammers, and the governor, are not on display through the case back. Even though the price tag is still large, compromises have to be made to keep the cost in check. 

If there is such a thing as a minute repeater on a budget, the IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater would be as close as one can get. Even with the complication not on full display, lucky owners still get to experience a luxurious case material and sonorous complication. 

9. Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater (ref. 458.HX.1170.HX.YOS)

High-end complications are often reserved for the best of what watchmakers have to offer, usually resulting in precious metals being used for the cases. While gold and platinum are undoubtedly luxurious, many modern collectors desire modern materials. 

The Hublot Big Bang Integral Minute Repeater was produced in a limited edition of 18 pieces, each in both black and white ceramic. This is the first minute repeater to be produced in a full ceramic case, bezel, and bracelet. Additionally, Hublot made the watch water-resistant to 30 meters, which is quite the feat of engineering considering the material and complications. 

At 43mm in diameter, this is definitely not a small watch but relatively restrained by Hublot standards. The MHUB801 manually wound caliber inside features an 80 power reserve, showing off Hublot’s ability to engineer movements with long power reserves, especially with complicated movements. 

The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Cathedral Minute Repeater retailed for 280,000 CHF, which looks reasonable considering the engineering needed to create this timepiece, compared to other watches on this list. If high-level complications and modern design are desired, this is definitely a watch to look at. 

10. Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime (ref. 522.50.45.52.03.001)

Omega really impressed the watch world by releasing the Speedmaster Chrono Chime in 2022. Instead of the traditional chiming complication that somehow represents the current time, the Chrono Chime audibly represents the elapsed time of the chronograph.

The Calibre Omega 1932 was developed in partnership with Blancpain. While the repeating function is built like a traditional minute repeater, as mentioned previously, it chimes the elapsed time of the chronograph. 

It will chime a high tone for the elapsed minutes, two tones for the elapsed 10 seconds intervals, and a low chime for individual seconds. Additionally, the 15-minute chronograph is fully integrated into the movement and has a rattrapante function, allowing for the timing of two separate events. 

The watch itself is as luxurious as Omega gets. The 45mm wide case and 21mm wide bracelet are full 18k Sedna gold, Omega’s proprietary red gold alloy. The dial is blue aventurine “Grand Feu” enamel and features 18k red gold hands, markers, and sub-dials.

The presentation box includes a resonance plate in spruce to amplify the sound of the chimes. A numbered edition, but not limited, the Omega Speedmaster Chrono Chime retails for 486,000 USD. 

11. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater (ref. 103669)

The original Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was released in 2016, with this updated version released in 2022. Bulgari set the record for the world’s thinnest minute repeater in production with this timepiece, with the movement measuring 3.12mm thin, and the case measuring 6.61mm

While not a sports watch, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater is maybe one of the more sporty looking. The 40mm case is made of sandblasted titanium, and the blue strap is made from FKM rubber. While not suitable for water sports, the case does manage to maintain 30 meters of water resistance.

The blue dial features cutouts for the indices, which are done to amplify the repeater’s sound.  Additionally, titanium makes for a great minute repeater case, as it does not dampen the sound as much as precious metals.

While the case width seems moderate and the thinness is remarkable, Octo Finissimos have a bold presence on the wrist, wearing more like a large cuff bracelet than a traditional watch. At the time of its release in 2022, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater retailed at 195,000 Euros. 

12. Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater (ref. J031033200)

Jaquet Droz is likely the most famous watchmaker in regard to automata. Much tamer than Blancpain already mentioned, some of his most notable works are the three-doll automata. Consisting of the musician, the draftsman, and the writer, these mechanical wonders from the last half of the 1700s are still functioning today. 

Drawing on that tradition is the Bird Repeater. In addition to the minute repeater, the automata on the dial depict a scene of baby birds being fed by their parents. The small birds move, seemingly begging for food, while the two adult birds move to feed and protect the offspring. 

This particular reference is a limited edition of eight pieces. The 47mm wide red gold case houses the RMA88 movement, a hand-wound caliber featuring Jaquet Droz’s contemporary signature, and an offset dial.

The time-telling part of the dial is black onyx, with the background being hand-carved and painted mother of pearl, along with the birds being hand carved and painted as well. 

The Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater is a remarkable combination of engineering, creativity, and craftsmanship. Offering something unique to the brand, it would be a stand-out piece in any collection. The Jaquet Droz Bird Repeater retails for 508,600 USD. 

13. F. P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine

Largely considered one of the best living watchmakers, Francois Paul Journe has created some of the best contemporary masterpieces in horology. While watches like the Chronometre Bleu get a great deal of attention from collectors, it does not come close to representing what the brand is capable of. 

The F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine contains a tourbillon with remontoir d’égalité, a minute repeater, sidereal hours and minutes, a 2nd timezone, a moon phase indicator, an annual calendar, an equation of time, a sunrise and sunset indication, a dead-beat second, and all settings are set via the crown. 

The last is particularly notable, as many complicated watches similar to the Astronomic Souveraine utilize pushers in the side of the case to adjust the complications. Additionally, to enhance the sound of the minute repeater, the 44mm wide case is made of stainless steel, chosen for its quality of sound compared to precious metals. 

The retail price of the F.P. Journe Astronomic Souveraine in 2019, upon original release, was 889,000 CHF. 

14. Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

The focus on chiming watches in general at the beginning of the article comes into play with the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto. Released in two 300-piece limited editions in blue and green, the 41mm titanium-cased Bel Canto features a Sonnerie au Passage complication, meaning the watch chimes every hour at the top of the hour. 

Christopher Ward accomplished this by using their own jump-hour module on top of a Sellita SW200-1. The chiming components of the watch can be seen on the dial side of the watch, with the hammer at the bottom of the dial, and the gong running around the periphery. 

Priced at 3,595 USD on a strap or 3,975 USD on a bracelet, the Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto offers a great entry point into mechanical chiming complications. It is definitely the most affordable watch on this list, and it may be even more mesmerizing to consider it is around the same price as a Tudor Black Bay. Since the original release, other dial colors have been released as part of Christopher Ward’s current collection. 

15. Breitling Aerospace Evo (ref. E79363101C1E1)

Should the function of a minute repeater, along with many other complications, appear to be immediately practical, but durability and affordability are of concern, then the Breitling Aerospace Evo may fit the bill. 

The Aerospace was originally released in 1985 and features a mixed analog and digital display. The main time telling is done via the hours and minutes hands on the dial, while the additional functions are displayed via the digital screens.

While many may disregard this watch as it does run off of the Breitling Quartz Caliber 79, this SuperQuartz movement is thermocompensated, contains a 1/100th of a second chronograph, 4-year calendar, countdown timers, 2nd timezone, alarm, and minute repeater. The 43mm wide case is made of titanium and is water-resistant to 100 meters. It also has a unidirectional bezel to cover additional timing needs. 

For the right enthusiasts, the Breitling Aerospace Evo offers a great deal of value. While maybe not a mechanical marvel in the same way as some of the other watches featured, it does have its own charms and feats of engineering. The Aerospace Evo on a titanium bracelet currently retails for 4,450 USD. 

Conclusion

Chiming watches are truly mechanical wonders. Even though they have always been intended for the most affluent of clients, there are aspects that all watch enthusiasts can appreciate. The engineering and craftsmanship needed to execute a chiming watch well require watchmakers at the top of their craft. 

Fortunately, there are a few companies that occasionally come up with a way to make a chiming watch slightly more democratic in terms of pricing, allowing for a few more enthusiasts to appreciate the delight of chiming watches, even if they are redundant in modern society. 

Sports watches are one of the most popular categories of watches, with prominent models such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Phillipe Nautilus, and many Rolex sport models taking center stage. Their versatility in style and durability are desirable traits for many watch buyers, even beyond enthusiast groups.

These watches are designed for durability, aimed to withstand the trials and tribulations of an active lifestyle and to look good while doing it.  With attire standards becoming increasingly casual, the versatility of sports watches often makes for a one-watch collection. Usually more boldly designed than traditional dress watches, they also frequently feature dark dials, emphasizing their sporting character and increasing their versatility.

While not as popular, white-dialed sports watches can increase a watch’s visual impact, often making them appear larger. Some designs can offer even more visual contrast, improving legibility. This article will explain the history of sports watches and offer 15 white-dialed sports watches for your consideration. 

What Is a Sports Watch?

This may seem obvious to those involved in watches for some time, but it’s a worthy distinction, especially compared to hardcore tool watches. Sports watches are usually aimed to have an element of durability over a dress watch. That usually means being made of non-precious metals (steel, titanium, even ceramic), increased water resistance (above 50 meters usually), and the inclusion of a bracelet or non-leather strap (textile or rubber). 

There are always exceptions, as there are plenty of sports watches made of precious metals, watches with more sporting designs with less water resistance, and sporty watches on leather straps. Sports watches exist in the space between dress watches and tool watches.

An example of a sports watch that overlaps with the dress category would be the Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso. Initially designed in the 1930s so that the reversing case would protect the glass front of the watch during polo matches, this is undoubtedly designed with sporting intentions and is one of the first sports watches ever made.

Nowadays, the art deco design and proportions, even with the larger models, lean more towards the modern idea of a dress watch than a sports watch. An example of a tool watch that overlaps with the sports watch category would be the famed Rolex Submariner.

Originally designed to be a tool for divers to time their dives (the rotating bezel would be used to time oxygen available during the dive), ever since Sean Connery wore a Submariner with a dinner jacket in Dr.No, the sartorial versatility of the Rolex Submariner has been cemented in popular culture.

Modern Submariners have more reflective surfaces and luxury appointments with white gold hands and indices, making the watch look and feel more high-end. This increases the flexibility between its originally utilitarian purposes and modern casual chic-ness.

Traditionalists would still shy away from wearing a Submariner or any dive watch with a suit, but modern tastes have allowed it for decades. Ultimately, if you look at a watch and question whether it is a dress watch or a tool watch, it will likely fall in the sports watch category. 

A (very) Brief History of Sports Watches

As mentioned with the Reverso, sports watches are very close to tool watches considering they are often designed with a purpose. Another distinction is that sports watches combine utility and style (the Reverso is a great example). 

Early Omega Seamasters are also quite dressy by modern standards but would have been considered sports watches back in their day, as they had more substantial steel cases and increased water resistance compared to the more traditional De Ville and Constellation collections in Omega’s catalog. 

It was not until Omega wanted to compete with the increasingly popular dive watch market of the mid to late 1950s that we saw the Seamaster resemble anything close to the Seamaster dive watches we are familiar with today.

The IWC Ingenieur reference 666 and Rolex Milgaus reference 1016 were tool watches in their day, offering increased durability in regards to magnetism, but with their clean but bold case designs leaning more into the sporting direction. 

In the 1970s, watch companies began to release watches closer to the modern idea of a sports watch, particularly integrated bracelet sports watches. With the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak being released in 1972 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus in 1976, the idea of a luxury sports watch took hold. 

The 1970s saw almost every major watch brand release an interpretation of the integrated bracelet steel sports watch. These watches varied in terms of thickness, water resistance, and durability of movements inside, emphasizing that sports watches are often more about style than all-out durability.

Compared to watches prior, these watches definitely made a bold statement, as they were larger than dress watches of the day, and the integrated designs made them appear even bulkier. These bold designs won favor with fashion icons and athletes. Fast-forwarding to the mid-2000s, brands were frequently partnering with athletes.

Audemars-Piguet and Hublot have released numerous limited editions commemorating sports stars they have partnered with. Even without celebrity partnerships, sports watches became the watch style of choice for many celebrities. This influenced consumers, as many wanted to mimic the style of their favorite stars. 

Why a White-Dialed Sports Watch?

As mentioned in the introduction, white-dialed sports watches are much bolder than dark-dialed ones. Some white-dialed sports watches will have silver hands and indices, which will make them appear more formal but will decrease legibility.

Colored watch dials have become increasingly popular in recent years; however, they are not for everyone. If you want to make more of a prominent statement with your watch than a black-dialed sports watch but are unwilling to jump to a brightly colored one, a white-dial sports watch should be on your radar.

15 White-Dialed Sports Watches

This list is not in any particular order; it highlights well-made models from various brands that offer white-dialed sports watches in their catalog (both past and present). Hopefully, this list will aid in narrowing down your own choice for a favorite white-dialed sports watch. 

1. Rolex Explorer II (ref. 226570-0001)

The Rolex Explorer II was originally designed as a tool for cave dwellers. A prominent feature of the Explorer II is the fixed external bezel indicating the 24-hour time. This was of concern for people working in caves, as they would be without any reference to day or night for extended periods.

When the GMT-Master finally received an independently adjustable 24-hour hand, so did the Explorer II. This allowed the Explorer II to track two timezones and maintain its original functionality. 

In its current white dial configuration (reference 226570-0001), the Explorer II features black indices surrounds and outlined hands to increase legibility. The Explorer II also recently received a mild case re-design, creating more integration between the case and bracelet and allowing for a case design more reminiscent of vintage Rolex cases but at a modern 42mm. 

With 100 meters of water resistance, screw down crown, a 70-hour power reserve, and a steel bracelet with Rolex’s own “Easy-Link” that allows for 5mm of tool-less adjustment, there are more than enough modern features to make the 226570 an easy watch to live with (a desirable trait for a sports watch). 

With a retail price of $9,650, the Explorer II sits somewhere in the middle of the Rolex sports model range. The good news is that availability is increasing, but still difficult as of March 2023. If you are considering searching for a used one, you should still expect to pay a premium over the retail price. 

2. Omega Seamaster Diver 300M (ref. 210.30.42.20.04.001)

When Omega redesigned the Seamaster Diver 300m in 2018, many enthusiasts were quite excited to see the return of the wave motif on the dial. This release marked the arrival of the Omega Caliber 8800 in the Seamaster Diver 300m, which features an increased anti-magnetism rating to above 15,000 gauss.

The METAS Master Chronometer certification also certifies the watch to -0/+6 seconds a day, ensuring a high level of accuracy. The slight increase over previous iterations from 41mm to 42mm may seem negligible. With thicker lugs, case height, and an updated bracelet, the watch is bolder on the wrist.

The white-dialed Seamaster Diver 300m features black outlined indices and hands, ensuring good legibility. While this is a dive watch, meaning it definitely has tool watch capabilities, the detailed finishing of the case and bracelet put this watch in the camp of what is often called a “dress-diver.”

It is still highly capable, but the case’s greater attention to detail and light-catching quality increase the jewelry factor. This may be a drawback to some looking for a more tool-oriented watch, but it also increases its flexibility with varying attire. With a retail price of $5600 on the bracelet, Omega is offering a great deal of technology, finishing, and innovation for the money.

3. Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300-0004)

The Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is the closest to the original Rolex Oyster design in the current catalog. Recent years have seen many updates, including various sizes and dial colors. For a short period from 2018 to 2020, Rolex offered the Oyster Perpetual in 39mm, which was favored by many but has since been replaced by a 41mm version of the watch.

Still, many watch enthusiasts consider the 39mm to be a goldilocks size, especially since Rolex Oyster cases wear slightly larger than their measured dimensions. The white dial reference does have silver-colored hands and indices, making it less legible but more versatile in its ability to be worn with more formal attire.

If this is a concern, this version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual would be a great choice, as the size and design are casual enough to handle the beach and can also be dressed up with a shirt and tie. Being an entry-level model from Rolex, the Oyster Perpetual does not feature a raised crown on the clasp, no flip-lock, and no Easy-Link adjustment on the clasp.

That does not, however, make the watch any less robust. Another downside of the white-dialed 39mm Oyster Perpetual is that it was discontinued in 2020. If you want to buy one, you are at the mercy of the used market regarding pricing. 

4. Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra “GoodPlanet” (ref. 231.90.39.21.04.001)

This version of the Omega Aqua Terra features a titanium case and bracelet in a 38.5mm size. Coming from the previous generation of the Aqua Terra line, this case is slightly asymmetrical, similar to the Speedmaster, but does feature the Master Co-Axial anti-magnetic movement. 

The dial is smooth, unlike the teak texturing that has been a hallmark of the collection for the last two generations of Aqua Terra. With the addition of the blue-colored indices and hands, this model will present on the more dressy side of sports watches, much closer to the original Seamasters of the 1940s and 50s. 

While the style is pretty conservative, the watch still offers 150 meters of water resistance, making it a strong candidate for an only-watch collection. Should the bracelet be too sporty, a change of strap will allow this watch to pair with more formal attire easily.

The titanium case and bracelet will be a welcome upgrade for some, as it is hypoallergenic and significantly lighter than steel. If you are a fan of watches with more significant weight to them, then a standard stainless steel Aqua Terra may be a better option.

Another point worth considering is that the titanium models come at a slight premium over the stainless steel ones, and this model has been discontinued. They are available on the used market, and you may still be able to find a new-old stock example at a dealer. 

5. Grand Seiko “Snowflake” SBGA211

The Grand Seiko “Snowflake” has become a well-known model for the brand. Grand Seiko has been highly regarded for its case, dial, and movement finishing that competes with much more expensive timepieces. Grand Seiko has been more adventurous with dials recently, but the Snowflake was the first to garner mainstream attention. 

Similar to the Aqua Terra “Good Planet,” this watch also features a titanium case and bracelet. The SBGA211 utilizes Grand Seiko’s caliber 9R65 Spring Drive movement, which uses a mechanical gear train and a quartz regulating system. 

By doing so, Grand Seiko is able to offer accuracy that is rated to +/- 15 seconds a month. Another notable feature of the Spring Drive movements is the effortless glide of the seconds hand, moving across the dial much smoother than high-beat mechanical movements. 

Featuring silver hands and indices, and no luminescent on the dial, the SBGA211 is one of the dressier options on this list. While it won’t help in pitch-black situations, the hands and indices are polished so that they catch light in low-light conditions, so you should still be able to read the time if you find yourself in a dimly lit establishment late in the evening.

There is still a screw-down crown, and 100m of water resistance should the evening also involve a fair amount of water. Retailing at $6,200, Grand Seiko offers buyers quite a unique set of specifications, design, and fit and finish.

6. Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A-011

The first of the traditional “Holy Trinity” on this list (consisting of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin), the Nautilus is Patek’s offering in the steel sports watch realm. Designed by Gerald Genta, the Nautilus is softer and rounder in appearance compared to the Royal Oak. 

The black outlined indices and hands on the white dial make this reference stand out compared to the more conservative blue and dark grey dialed Nautilus watches that are more common. While maintaining a pretty thin profile of 8.3mm and still using a highly finished caliber 324 S C that is up to Patek Philippe’s standard of fit and finish, the Nautilus is rated to 120 meters of water resistance. 

This makes the Nautilus a more than capable sports watch and could be someone’s only watch. This would also be a great companion for a client’s sporting ventures while their more traditional watches stay safe at home, likely the original intention of Patek Philippe.

If there is ever an opportunity to see one in person, it will probably be quickly evident why the Nautilus is so popular. This model was offered from 2012-2020, and in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the prices quickly rose past the original retail price soon after discontinuation.

7. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (ref. 15400ST.OO.1220ST.02)

Possibly the most famous of the integrated bracelet sports watches (alongside the Nautilus) is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. This iteration is a more contemporary version in terms of movement and case size. The movement inside is more durable and up-to-date than the ultra-thin JLC-based movement used in the famous Jumbo iteration of the Royal Oak.

Featuring a full balance bridge to aid in balance spring stability, and a modern 60-hour power reserve, this movement is closer to the standards expected for a contemporary sports watch. While the Royal Oak has been offered in various sizes over the years, this 41mm version is one of the largest time-only Royal Oaks ever made and will have even more presence on the wrist, given the white dial.

The look on the wrist will be closer to the Royal Oak Offshore than the Jumbo. Fortunately, this watch is not as thick as the Offshore, measuring 9.8mm thick. The silver indices and hands will also help this watch dress up easily.

8. Vacheron Constantin Overseas (ref. 4500V/110A-B126)

Rounding out the traditional “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Originally designed by Vincent Kaufmann and Dino Modolo, the design took inspiration from Vacheron’s 222 model from the 1970s, which Jörg Hysek designed. While offering a very similar look and feel to the Nautilus and Royal Oak, the Overseas integrates the brand’s Maltese Cross logo in the design of the bezel and bracelet. 

While a tad thicker than the Royal Oak and Nautilus at 11mm thick, it is still slim enough to be worn with most dress shirts. A few benefits of the Overseas compared to the Royal Oak and Nautilus is that the Overseas is rated to 150 meters of water resistance and includes a leather and rubber strap along with the steel bracelet. The added durability and flexibility of these features allow the Overseas to fit into various situations, both in terms of style and functionality. 

With a retail price of $22,500 and still being offered in the brand’s current catalog, the Vacheron Overseas will be a good choice for many. It is still challenging to get from boutiques and authorized retailers, but more available than Nautilus’ and Royal Oak’s that are in their respective brands’ current catalogs. 

9. Omega Speedmaster Racing (ref. 329.30.44.51.04.001)

The Speedmaster Racing collection has been a line in Omega’s catalog aimed at the more motorsport-oriented clientele. With the staggered seconds indications around the outer edge of the dial, this design allows for a more facile reading of partials of a second (in this instance, a 1/4 of a second). 

Being a modern automatic Speedmaster, this reference uses a bi-compax layout (two subdials only). It still measures events up to 12 hours, with the hours and minutes totaled at the 3 o’clock subdial and the running seconds shown at 9 o’clock.

Another cool feature of the Omega Calibre 9900 is the jumping hour hand, which allows you to set the hours independently of the rest of the watch. This feature is convenient while traveling, as it enables the user to change the hours without completely stopping the timepiece.

Measuring 14.9mm thick and 44.25mm wide, this Speedmaster is quite large, but shortened lugs and a stepped case design allow it to wear well for its size. While less than other watches here, the rated 50 meters of water resistance is quite good for a chronograph and should be more than enough considering the intention is for motor racing and not water sports.

This watch also features Omega’s Master Chronometer technology, creating a modern and durable anti-magnetic movement. The Omega Speedmaster Racing retails for $9,100 on a steel bracelet. 

10. Tudor Black Bay Chrono (ref. M79360N-0002)

The Black Bay line has been a home run for Tudor. The Black Bay Chrono is no exception, as many enthusiasts see it as a more obtainable alternative to the Rolex Daytona. Tudor has managed to create their own identity, as their designs continue to differentiate itself from other brands.

With bold indices and “snowflake” hands, there is no doubt about the Black Bay’s sporting intentions. The Black Bay Chrono is similar to the Speedmaster Racing with its black-and-white theme and bi-compax layout. Here, the Tudor can only measure events up to 45 minutes with the counter at 3 o’clock and the running seconds at 9 o’clock. 

The Calibre MT5813 shares architecture with Breitling, as the two brands have partnered together to provide movements to one another. The MT5813 has a 70-hour power reserve, which adds convenience should you have a few watches you like to rotate through. 

With screw-down pushers, the Black Bay Pro can be rated to 200 meters of water resistance (with the crown and pushers screwed in). While shown here with a bracelet, which is the most popular choice, Tudor also offers a variety of straps should the bracelet not be to your liking. 

The 41mm dimension of the case seems quite reasonable on paper, but the Black Bay line typically has relatively long lugs, and large case sides, making the watch wear pretty large on the wrist. Combined with the fairly reasonable retail price of $5,450, the case dimensions have not stopped many buyers from being very happy with the Black Bay line. 

11. TAG Heuer Night Diver (ref. WBP201D.FT6197)

One of the more unique watches on this list is the TAG Heuer Night Diver. With a large 43mm black DLC-coated steel case, black ceramic bezel, and textured white dial, this watch will make a statement on the wrist. 

The dial has white lumed indices at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock and black indices for the remainder, with a date at 6 o’clock as well. The black indices on a white dial are very bold and striking. The main attraction of this watch is that the entire dial is lumed, meaning the white dial glows green in the dark.

If nighttime legibility is of utmost concern for you, this should be towards the top of your list for white dial sports watches. While the watch comes on a rubber strap instead of a bracelet, the clasp does include a micro-adjust mechanism, making quick adjustments easy.

The movement inside is not an in-house, high-tech movement like many other watches featured on this list. The ETA or Sellita-based Calibre 5 will allow for easy service down the road. Given the black case and luminescent dial, the Night Diver likely won’t be as flexible sartorially compared to other watches on this list and will likely be best suited for casual and sporting environments.

Retailing at $3,750, the TAG Heuer Night Diver seems a bit expensive compared to similar dive watches, but few have such a bold, high-contrast look.

12. Breitling Superocean Heritage (ref. AB20303A1A1A1)

This specific Breitling Superocean Heritage was released as a limited edition for the Greek market in 2022 and was limited to 100 units. The good news is that for Breitling enthusiasts, this is definitely a watch to search for. The bad news is that it will be more challenging to find compared to standard models, and the secondary market will dictate prices. 

On the other side of the Tudor and Breitling partnership, here Breitling utilizes the Breitling caliber B20, which is based on the Tudor MT5612. The movement has a 70-hour power reserve and is chronometer certified.

The vintage-inspired design, blue accents on the dial, and blue bezel should allow this watch to pair well with various situations, from full-on water sports to cocktail attire dinners. The timepiece is large at 44mm, and the Breitling Superocean Heritage line does wear its size.

Even though the design is vintage-inspired, the modern movement and ceramic bezel will ensure that the watch will stand up to the trials and tribulations of an adventurous Mediterranean vacation. 

13. Panerai Luminor Marina (ref. PAM01314)

The Panerai Luminor is one of the brand’s icons (alongside the Radiomir). Designed for the Italian Navy, these watches were designed to be extremely durable and legible. One of the design hallmarks of Panerai is its use of sandwich dials.

This means that the dial is multi-layered, with the lower layer containing luminescent paint, and the upper dial has the numerals and indices cut out, allowing them to glow in low-light environments. More traditional Panerai watches have black dials with green luminescent or, more recently, tan luminescent to mimic vintage lume.

Here, the lume is grey with a white dial. While the monochromatic look may sound dull, it makes for a very striking watch, especially with the iconic Luminor case that features the prominent crown locking mechanism. While 44mm is a large watch, Panerai watches have always been large, which is part of the look.

The movement inside is Panerai’s P.9010 calibre, which uses two mainspring barrels to achieve a 72-hour power reserve. The watch is rated to 300 meters of water resistance, ensuring it can handle the aquatic duties the watch was originally designed for.

Additionally, Panerai watches have been known to look great on various straps, and there is a thriving community of Paneristi happy to share their favorite combinations online. 

The Panerai PAM01314 retails for $8,400.

14. Czapek Passage De Drake Ice White on Rubber Strap

Should owning something rarely seen elsewhere be towards the top of your priority list, the Czapek Passage De Drake Ice White should be considered. 

The Passage De Drake features contrasting brushed and polished finishing on the bracelet and case, with a mirror-polished bezel. The dial has a stamped “flinqué” dial, with an exclusive and registered “Stairway to Eternity” pattern. 

Inside is the Calibre SHX5 movement, an in-house micro-rotor movement with 60 hours of power reserve from a single mainspring barrel. The micro-rotor design has the rotor in line with the movement instead of sitting on top, which allows for a thinner case design. 

The Passage De Drake measures 40.5mm in diameter, 10.6mm thick, and is rated to 120 meters of water resistance. Also impressive is that Czapek managed to keep the watch thin with this water resistance and have a display case back to see this unique movement. 

The bracelet features a micro-adjustment system in the clasp and an “Easy Release” system that allows for easy changes between the bracelet and an additional calf leather or rubber strap.

If you like the general look of integrated bracelet watches but want something different than the usual suspects, the Czapek Passage De Drake is worth considering and worthy of high praise. 

The retail price of the Czapek Passage De Drake is $22,000. 

15. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (ref. 5015-1127-52A)

Blancpain often does not get enough credit, as they were the first to market with the modern dive watch in 1953, beating Rolex. Their Fifty-Fathoms line is their flagship dive watch, with the current iterations based on a model revamp released in 2007. 

This Fifty-Fathoms uses the in-house caliber 1315, a high-jeweled movement with 35 jewels, and a 120-hour power reserve. While the finishing may look spartan in photos, in real life, the movement decoration is quite detailed and done to a high level.

Daytime legibility will be somewhat compromised with the white dial, silver hands, and silver with white luminescent indices. However, with the white bezel covered with a sapphire insert, and white strap, this almost entirely white watch is more of a fashion statement than a functional tool watch.

While highly capable with 300 meters of water resistance and more than enough lume on the dial and bezel, there will be no problem timing dives or the parking meter while on a night out. While no longer in the Blancpain catalog, some searching and patience should allow for a reasonable price on the used market. 

Conclusion

The popularity of sports watches is easy to understand. For many, a good sports watch could be the only one they own, as it is often designed with functionality and style in mind. Even collectors with many timepieces may purchase several sports watches, as they can vary significantly in design. 

Because of the variety of designs, there will certainly be a sports watch on the market that resonates with almost every buyer, whether their tastes align more on the slim and elegant side of sports watches or the more robust and utilitarian end. Should a white-dialed sports watch be appealing, hopefully, this list will aid in your search.