Are you in the market for a new open back watch? I relate with you. I love watches that allow me to glimpse the intricate engineering of their mechanisms.
You don’t have to break the bank to find a quality watch with an exhibition case back. But honestly, you may have to spend on the high side to find timepieces with movement construction and finish worth the display case.
In this article, we’ve compiled a list of the 15 best open-back watches across budget ranges, so you can find the perfect watch to suit your style. From affordable quartz watches to high-end luxury timepieces, this comprehensive guide has something for everyone. So, without further ado, let’s dive into the world of open-back watches and discover what makes them so special.
About Open Back Watches
Open-back watches show the watchmakers pride in the engineering of their watch. They also offer you a chance to admire or show off the movement to another watch buff. These watches reveal the tiny gears, rotors, and springs working harmoniously to keep time running.
It’s like having a miniature Rube Goldberg machine on your wrist! But open-back watches are more than just a fascinating display of engineering. They are well-thought-out designs and can be pricey if you want to experience a movement worth showing off.
History Of Open Back Watches
Display case backs have existed for centuries, but it’s uncertain when they were first made. However, Bovet, founded in 1822, claims to be the first brand to design an exhibition case watch. Time went on (pun intended), and watchmakers began to get more creative with their designs.
In the 19th century, watchmakers, in a bid to make the case backs more transparent, started to use materials like crystal. As expected, the watches stayed expensive, and only a few could afford them.
A. Lange & Söhne did release watches with enamored outer casings and transparent inner casings displaying the movement. Only in the 20th century did these watches become popular and more accessible, particularly amongst watch geeks, collectors, and enthusiasts.
In the 1960s and 1970s, Swiss watchmakers began producing high-end luxury watches with open backs, such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony.
These watches were often produced in limited quantities and featured complex movements. Today, open back watches are everywhere and available in all sizes, shapes, and prices.
If you are looking for a stylish and affordable display case watch, consider the vintage-inspired Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph. This proudly Chinese-made watch is touted as the most attainable mechanical watch.
The 38mm stainless steel case has a polished finish and is 12mm thick, which gives the watch a retro look. It’s a simple, clean dial with a blurry white background, black hour markers, and hands. Three sub-dials show the chronograph seconds, minutes, and hours.
One of the unique features of this watch is the movement. It uses a manual ST19 caliber, which is fairly accurate and reliable, with a power reserve of around 40 hours.
In terms of functionality, the Seagull 1963 Mechanical Chronograph is a basic chronograph with no additional features such as a date display or a tachymeter. In addition, there’s hearsay that its leather strap may be of lower quality. However, it packs plenty of value for its price.
The Seiko 5 SRPD71 (also known as the SRPD71K1) is a stunning and unique timepiece. It combines a traditional style and elegance with contemporary functions.
The watch is enclosed in a stainless steel case made of scratch-resistant Hardlex crystal that is 13.4mm thick and has a diameter of 42.5mm. It has a sturdy bracelet that makes the watch feel substantial on the wrist.
Also, it sports a black dial with luminous hands and markers that make it simple to read in dim light. Additionally, the placement of the day/date function adds a practical touch to the overall design.
Other striking features of the Seiko 5 SRPD71 are the automatic and manual winding 4R36 caliber that provides reliable timekeeping and a 41-hour power reserve. The watch also has a 10 bar water resistance, making it suitable for swimming and other related activities.
Overall, the Seiko 5 SRPD71 is an excellent choice for sport watch lovers who also want some style and durability to go with it.
Now here is one delightful combination of elegance and whimsy! I like to think of it as the James Bond of watches – cool, calm, and daring. Let’s start with the design. The Hamilton Jazzmaster Viewmatic (H32515555) has a classic look for formal occasions.
Its captivating white dial has dauphine hands and a mix of Arabic numerals and dagger indexes. It even has a big date at the 3 o’clock position, not to mention guilloche-like patterns in the middle of the dial.
The Jazzmaster is pristine and refined with a matching 40mm stainless case. And the Viewmatic naming is probably in reference to its exhibition-style case back that allows you to view the mechanical movement.
This Hamilton piece is powered by an H10 automatic caliber and features an 80-hour power reserve, which is unheard of at its price range.
It also has 25 jewels, but you’re only afforded a sight of its oscillating weight and parts of its wheels through its open case. Pair the Jazzmatic with its calf leather bracelet strap, and you have an elegant dress watch on a budget.
The Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase (ref. FC-712MS4H6), or as I like to call it, the “fancy watch that tells you when to howl at the moon,” is a work of art. It’s got a sleek silver and black design that’s sure to turn heads.
The FC-712MS4H6 boasts other satisfactory attributes, like the calf leather black strap with croc-print and a folding buckle with push buttons. The polished stainless steel case has a 42mm diameter, a thickness of 11.6mm, and a 5 bar water resistance.
This case houses a matching silver dial and automatic central rotor mechanics that can be seen through the open case back and an FC-712 caliber. The moon phase and day-indicator subdials maintain the simple look of the dial.
In all, the Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase is a watch that’s both stylish and practical. It’s perfect for the fashion-conscious werewolf who needs to keep track of lunar cycles or anyone who wants to look darn good while telling time.
The Tangente 38 is a minimalist’s dream come true, with clean lines, simple indices, and a stunningly understated dial. It’s the kind of watch that makes you feel like a savvy sophisticate just by wearing it, even if you’re just wearing sweatpants and a t-shirt.
But don’t be fooled by its simplicity – this Nomos watch is a veritable treasure trove of clever engineering. The in-house manual-winding caliber Alpha is a marvel of precision and efficiency, keeping the time with the kind of accuracy that would make an atomic clock blush.
And the sapphire crystal open back gives you a peek into the inner workings of this mechanical masterpiece and its aesthetic blend of purple, blue, gold, and silver colors. Of course, the Tangente 38 isn’t just a pretty face (with an even more beautiful back).
It’s also built to last, with a 43 hours power reserve and a round (37.50mm diameter) sturdy stainless steel case that can take a beating. And with a 30 meters water resistance, the watch is splash-proof.
Let’s not forget the little details that make the Tangente 38 so special. The slim blue steel hands, elegant markers, subtly curved lugs, and the Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan leather are a testament to the beauty of simplicity and the power of a great design.
The Longines Master Collection (ref. L2.673.4.78.3) is a perfect accessory for anyone who wants to feel like a high-roller. It’s stylish, functional, and toolsy. Now, let’s talk specs. The Longines Master Collection ref. L2.673.4.78.3 has a stainless steel case with a diameter of 42mm.
It’s a “barleycorn” silver-toned dial with a guilloche pattern and many markings in Arabic numerals. And its blue feuille hands give it a cool, relaxing look that calms its cluttered dial. It has standard 12-hour, 24-hour, small seconds, day-date-month indexes, and a moon phase indicator on the dial.
This Longines Master is a complete date and timekeeping watch. It’s got a sapphire crystal open case back so that you can admire the intricate workings of its Longines caliber L678.2. Admittedly, half of the display is only the oscillating weight, so a watch critic might have some disapproving words.
Another standout is its 64 hours of power reserve. So you can go more than two and a half days without winding it. If you love the idea of a full calendar and exhibition case watch, this Longines Master is a no-brainer.
This stunning timepiece was designed as a special anniversary edition of the 44GS. Its light blue dial and cloud-texture pattern were influenced by the sea of clouds of GS’s Shinshu studio. Now to the watch itself.
The SBGP017 is a part of Grand Seiko’s Sport Collection, so you know it’s made to withstand wear and tear. The case is made of high-strength titanium, which is both lightweight and durable. It also has a see-through sapphire crystal case back to glance at its quartz movement.
And if you thought that was impressive, wait until you hear about the diamond-cut hour markers and the date window at 3 o’clock. Further, the SBGP017 is powered by Grand Seiko’s 9F85 quartz movement, accurate to within +/- 5 seconds per year. So, if you value precision and reliability more than super-complications, this watch is for you.
The open back shows the movement in all its glory, with a gold finish, gems, and battery on display. Ultimately, the SBG017 is a value-packed open back watch with a dial design, finishing, and durability ahead of its price range. Perfect choice if you don’t mind quartz.
The watch in black – the Tudor Black Bay is a classy watch any collector or enthusiast will jump at. It’s a premium dive watch with a micro-blasted black ceramic case, bezel, and hybrid leather-rubber strap. Only the white Tudor markers and hands give it a pop of color.
It’s reminiscent of a customized all-black BMW, or any all-black car for that matter. Surprisingly, the Black Bay’s dial is extremely easy to read in the dark or underwater. The case measures 41mm in diameter, making it a great size for most wrist sizes.
Its exhibition case back offers excellent visibility of the watch’s inner workings, adding to its allure. The watch also features a screw-down crown and is water resistant up to 200m. But let’s get to the really important stuff – the movement.
Its METAS-certified MT5602 caliber, with a 70-hour power reserve and anti-magnetic up to 15,000 gausses. Of course, it’s also finished all-black with only a few contrasting gems and steel finishing. Overall, the Tudor Black Bay is a high-tech watch with fancy finishes and an exhibition case.
The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 Blue (ref. 95.9002.9004/78.R590) is a magnificent skeleton watch that allows you to admire the intricate details of its movement, front, back, and center. Some major sights are the blue oscillating weight, the Zenith star logo on the rotor, and the counters.
Plus, a mindblowing 36,000 frequency on its El Primero movement. Additionally, the watch has a power reserve of 50 hours. And if you’re worried about getting wet, fear not – it’s water-resistant up to 100 meters.
Despite its seemingly complicated look and prominent case, it’s a classy dress watch. Its 44mm titanium case synchronizes with the rubber strap and tones of blue from the El Primero movement. The Defy El Primero will pass for a luxury sports watch, statement piece, and night dress watch.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 5015 is a diver’s watch with stellar craftsmanship. The open back design is a great touch, allowing you a glimpse of its 227 components in action. Its sapphire crystal case back displays the oscillating weight, escapement, and balance wheel, all in motion.
The Fifty Fathoms 5015 in-house caliber 1315 has an impressive 120-hour power reserve. It is encased in a sizeable 45mm stainless steel case that’s comfortable to wear with its sail-canvas strap.
It’s typically built for underwater use with a unidirectional rotating bezel, black dial, luminescent hands, and markers for legibility in low-light conditions and 300 meters of water resistance. If you love iconic watches that are bold to put their movements on display, the Fithy Fathoms is the true definition.
This watch is the perfect trifecta of watchmaking – combining style, function, and history. The Omega Speedmaster is easily one of the most beautiful display case watches ever. It houses the Caliber 321 – early Speedmaster models worn by NASA astronauts during the Apollo missions – that would leave you staring at in awe.
It’s a hand-wound movement with 18k rose gold finished components, a Breguet balance spring, and 55 hours of power reserve. Again, this is the moon caliber on display. The face of the watch is one of simplicity and class.
It features a sleek black dial with contrasting white minute markings on the sub-dials and bezel tachymeter. Its 39.7mm 316L corrosion-resistant stainless steel case bracelets are sturdy and complete each other for a masculine instrument watch look.
At the heart of the red gold SeaQ is Glashütte Original’s Caliber 39-11 automatic movement, which boasts an impressive power reserve of up to 40 hours. This movement is built to last, with its signature three-quarter plate and Glashütte stripes adding a touch of elegance to the watch’s overall aesthetic.
The SeaQ’s blue dial with its sunburst finish, lume on the hands, and indices are top-notch features that provide excellent legibility in any lighting condition. It’s no surprise for a dive watch with its water resistance rating of 300 meters.
This is thanks to a screw-down crown, a screw-down case back, and a unidirectional rotating bezel. The SeaQ has a stainless steel case with a sizable 43.2mm diameter, giving it a sporty and masculine feel that will turn heads.
One minor critique of the SeaQ is its lack of a date function, which some users may find inconvenient. However, this omission aligns with the watch’s classic design and isn’t exactly a dealbreaker for most.
Next on my list of the best open back watches if you love ornamented watches is the Breguet Classique Chronograph 3237. Before you notice the display case, its artful case and dial should catch your (or anyone’s) attention. It’s a fluted 36mm 18k yellow gold case with pump pushers that gives a discreet but bold look.
When you look closely, you’ll appreciate Breguet even more. The roman numeral hour markers and Breguet hands are like eye candy. But the show’s real star is the silver guilloché pattern on the dial.
It gives substance to the dial’s bare center and outer rings while allowing the hour markers and counters to shine. As if that’s not enough, your eyes stay full when you turn the Breguet Classique 3237 on its back. Its in-house caliber 533.3 takes up the space with fine engineering for you to gaze at.
It has a 48-hour power reserve. And with a 36.0mm case diameter and 10mm thickness, it’s big enough to make a statement without being so big that it looks like you’re wearing a clock on your wrist.
In a world of iconic dress watches, the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection is a line of A-listers. It is a true classic that embodies the timeless elegance and understated style that Patek Philippe is known for.
The 6119G-001 displays the manually-wound in-house Caliber 30-255 PS in a full-circumference open case back. It gives you a full view of the back, with the movement’s jewels, rotor, and golden wheels with Patek Phillipe Seal in sight.
The 30-225 has 165 parts in total and a power reserve of 65 hours. You’ll need as many hours to study the complication and geek out with your watch pals.
Moving on, the 6119G has a refreshing dial of understated luxury. It’s a charcoal gray background in a visible vertical satin finish with applied white gold stick markers and dauphine hands.
Further, it features a 39mm 18k white gold case. It also has a stunning and meticulous hobnail guilloche bezel design.
More impressively, the case is only 8.08mm thick, which makes it super-dressy and comfortable on any outfit. Especially when you pair it with the shiny black alligator strap with square scales. Overall, the 6110G Calatrava is crafted to perfection.
The 1815 Rattrapante Platinum is a stunning 200-piece limited edition display case watch. First off, it’s powered by a manually-wound in-house chronograph movement – Caliber L101.2. So there’s a handful to exhibit in its sapphire glass case back.
More specifically, the movement has 631 individual components, running a “rattrapante” (or split-seconds) complication that times two events simultaneously. As a result, the movement has a super-complicated switching process, with two column wheels and a rattrapante clamp, which you can observe through the glass.
It delivers a power reserve of up to 58 hours before it needs to be rewound. Unsurprisingly, A. Lange & Söhne delivers an artistic dial to carry this beautiful movement. In addition, it has an argenté-finish that complements its 41mm 950 platinum case.
The blue hands, black Arabic numerals, and minute track look clean and legible on the silver dial. Impressively, the Rattrapante’s stellar movement and dial are packed into a 12.6mm thick case. Its lightweight and portability make it a go-to statement piece or casual watch for the elite.
Starts from approximately: $140,000
Conclusion
Display case watches are not built equal, nor are people’s tastes in watches. The best open-back watches, admittedly, only get better with the price. So, if you’re focused on the finishing and complication of the movement on display, we suggest you pick from the last 10 watches on the list.
Ultimately, you’ll find a value-packed option whether you’re on a tight or affluent budget. If it’s on this list, it’s worth showing off.
Ever had your power reserve run out just as you were about to use the chronograph function? Was your quartz movement not quite enough to impress that watch dude at your business meeting?
Well, how about the Solar watches? Better yet, how about combining the functionality of a solar watch with the utility of a dive watch?
Solar dive watches are not for everyone, but when you start thinking about all the versatility they offer, they might be a dark horse…
About Solar Dive Watches
As you may know, watches either come with a mechanical or quartz movement. Well, not all. There are a few that are slightly different from the rest, like the Spring Drive from Grand Seiko. However, rising above all the rest is the Solar watch.
As the name suggests, these types of watches are powered by solar energy or by artificial light. Typically, the solar panel(s) are located behind the crystal of the watch. From there, it’s simple physics really; sunlight is absorbed by the PV cells in the panel, and the energy is converted into electrical charges that move in response to an internal electric field in the cell, causing electricity to flow.
This electricity is then transferred into a rechargeable cell to power the watch during dark times. This unique technological approach might not seem the most romantic of all the watches you could get your hands on, but it is something that is remarkably useful in actual tool watches.
This is why you find it in dive, field, and aviation watches. These were engineered to be as practical as possible, and what’s more practical than being powered by a massive nuclear fusion reactor millions of miles away?
The History Of Solar Dive Watches
While watches have been worn all throughout the 1900s, the first wristwatch to be powered by the sun was the Synchronar 2100, developed by an American engineer named Roger W. Riehl in 1972. The watch was quirky, and while it was visionary, it wasn’t incredibly sleek.
The top of the watch featured two large panels while the time was digitally displayed on the side; funnily enough, this makes it a rather food driver’s watch. This was just after Seiko released the first quartz-powered watch in 1969, so the world was eager for more development.
From there, the technology was relegated to more cost-effective wristwatches, especially those made in Japan. While some Swiss companies have made use of the tech, it’s certainly not commonplace.
It’s unclear which watch was the first dive watch to be powered by a solar unit, but it’s likely to come from one of the Japanese giants like Seiko, Citizen, or Orient.
Should You Buy A Solar Dive Watch?
The big question you might be asking at the end of this list is whether you need a solar dive watch or not. Before we even dive into the list, you should first ask whether or not you even want a dive watch. Dive watches are typically bulkier and larger than others, so if you only have a 5.8-inch wrist, these may not be the best option.
If you are a person that does regular diving, this might be the perfect watch for you, even more so for those that work on ships or boats. You might not always be moving enough to wind a rotor, and your sudden movements might damage the mainspring. A solar-powered dive watch would be perfect, seeing as it can gain power from the sun, which is always available, it’s robust enough to survive the environment, and fantastic water resistance.
That said, there are also a lot of premier watch collectors that own some of these pieces as a ‘beater’. These are watches you wear when you know you might be in a rough-and-tumble environment and you don’t want to scratch that Rainbow Daytona you just bought.
Seiko is one of the most well-known brands on the planet, especially when it comes to cost-effective dive watches. The Prospex range occupies part of the market for individuals looking for something slightly more robust and upmarket than the Seiko 5. Presented here is the ref. SNE575, a 38.5mm steel diver with a no-nonsense approach to utility.
Designed to actually be used by divers, emphasized by the “PADI” writing at the 6 o’clock position because the watch is part of the ‘The Professional Association of Diving Instructors’, and the PADI writing on the watch is exclusive to Seiko. With a lug-to-lug of 46.5mm, the watch wears very true to the 38.5mm diameter, and thanks to the 10.6mm diameter, the watch has a very subtle wearing experience despite the utility.
The dial features an engraving reminiscent of the longitude and latitude lines of the globe featuring large hour markers filled with luminescence. A solid 200m water resistance rating with a unidirectional bezel is accentuated by the solar caliber V147 which has an accuracy of ±15 seconds per month.
While the first ‘Pepsi-colored’ dial was created with the GMT Master ref. 1675 from Rolex, many other brands have also utilized the combination of the two contrasting colors. One of those brands is Citizen, like with this ref. BN0168-06L Promaster Diver.
The Promaster line is the robust and utilitarian line from Citizen, as presented with this 44m steel diver matched with a blue polyurethane strap. The bezel colors continue on the dial, as the blue dial is matched with a large red minute hand and equally large hour markers. If this watch could scream, it’d be screaming utility and legibility.
A date aperture without a cyclops is located at the 4 o’clock position to double down on the practicality of the timepiece. All the functions are powered by the caliber E168, an Eco-drive movement that is Citizen’s solar-powered unit. The watch is also ISO-compliant, with a water resistance measurement of 200m.
Casio is perhaps the single most loved brand from the kid down the street rocking his G-Shock to the collector whose daily is a Paul Newman Daytona. Both will own Casios and love them for their utility and honesty.
This ref. MTPS110-1AV down-to-earth tool watch comes in two variations, one in blue and one in black. The dial is matched with a yellow or red minute and seconds hand, respectively, and at the 3 o’clock position, you’ll find a day-date function.
The diameter is slightly larger compared to some of the others, measuring 46.9mm. A solid 100m water resistance matched with a mineral crystal and the utility of a solar power unit makes this the perfect ‘beater’ watch, or perhaps a watch you just wear when out and about working on your yacht.
TAG Heuer is known for making some of the better watches for their price point. The first Aquaracer was presented in 2003 and has since become a mainstay in their lineup, ranging from quartz movements to automatic versions. The ref. WBP1112.FT6199, or the Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph, is a solar-powered version and sports a rather stealthy appearance.
A 40mm DLC-coated sandblasted black case is matched with a black bezel that features an insert made from carbon fused with luminous material, which massively increases legibility. The whole dial is highly legible thanks to copious amounts of lume on the hour markers and hands.
The Solargraph caliber TH50-00 powers the watch and is based on the Citizen E168, displaying the time and the date at the 3 o’clock position on a sunray-finished black dial.
Tissot presents some of the best value-for-money timepieces on the Swiss market, like this T-Touch Connect Solar ref. T121.420.47.051.00. Walking a thin line between a smartwatch and a regular watch might upset a few individuals, but it does seem to walk the line rather well.
A digital display is located on the lower half of the dial, but you still have the normal three-hand display, so, the best of both worlds. The black display is still highly legible thanks to the not-so-subtle use of red on the seconds hand and the tip of the minute hand.
A ceramic bezel elevates both the resistance to scratches but also features the four main compass directions, which matches the utility of the ‘smart part’ of the T-Touch, which according to Tissot, includes but is not limited to an altimeter, compass, perpetual calendar, alarm, time, time zones, automatic daylight saving time, timer, chrono split, chrono lap, chrono log book, and a step counter.
The watch measures a whopping 47.50mm in diameter, so it certainly is not for everyone, but when considering the utility of the piece, it’s to be expected.
If you’re looking for a more subtle approach to the dive watch category, perhaps the Lum-Tec Solar Marine is the option for you. The watch is limited to merely 500 pieces worldwide, so it’s unlikely you’ll ever see someone else wearing one.
Measuring at a dainty 39mm with a bead-blasted finish to improve durability. The main feature your eyes will be attracted to is the white steel insert on the bezel fixed with lume for added legibility.
The watch’s overall look is also subtle thanks to the titanium carbide gunmetal PVD hard coating on the case, creating a faded look that doesn’t draw as much attention to itself as other, more colorful divers.
The 300m of water resistance is matched with the 6 months power reserve thanks to the solar-powered caliber VS42A, which is manufactured by Seiko.
What about a more compact diver? The Vaer D4 features a subtle 38mm polished case matched with a brushed-finished three-link bracelet or a brown NATO strap. With a lug-to-lug measurement of only 45mm, the watch sits quite comfortably on the wrist despite the 200m of water resistance.
The watch exudes plenty of maritime subtexts with a deep blue dial with golden lined hands and golden text at the 6 o’clock position. In fact, each highly luminous hour marker is also lined with golden effects. An anodized aluminum bezel insert featuring 120-click technology surrounds the dial in a similar blue hue.
The movement within is the Epson VS22 solar movement with an accuracy rating of -30 / +30 sec per month. The bracelet is rather special at the price point of $359 – $449. It features four micro-adjustments, solid end links, and an 18mm taper.
With a name like Torpedo, you already know what type of watch you’re about to deal with. A 44mm steel diver with 200m of water resistance thanks to a screw-down crown. The crown is located at the 4 o’clock position to avoid the “wrist-bite” we so often experience with regular crowns.
Behind the sapphire crystal is a black dial with contrasting circular sections, the inner section being slightly transparent and the outer being glossy. Subtle pops of color are courteous of the red seconds hand and the pointer for the date aperture at 4 o’clock. The black rotating bezel features ample impressions to allow it to be easily used even when wearing gloves.
Seiko is back again with something for the meathead in your life – the Seiko ref. SNJ025, nicknamed the ‘Arnie’, is a contemporary model of the famous ref. H558 worn by Arnold Schwarzenegger in the film The Predator.
The aesthetics didn’t change much, and if Arnie could rock it, then you can imagine the watch being quite large. A case diameter of 47.8mm makes it a unit on the wrist and that excludes the several crowns.
There are crowns to manage both the digital and analog display, as well as the several complications within; the power reserve display function, local time indication mode, stopwatch function, and an alarm.
The watch is (surprise) also ISO-compliant, perhaps making it the dive watch to end all other divers. Powered by the caliber H851 with an accuracy rating of -15 / +15 sec per month. To improve the robust nature of the timepiece, a rubber outer bezel is placed around the dive bezel creating the signature look of the “Arnie”.
10. Citizen Promaster Aqualand (ref. BN2036-14E)
Citizen is another giant in the dive watch world with legendary models like the Promaster range, as presented here with the Aqualand ref. BN2036-14E. With a water resistance rating of 200m, the watch has been awarded the ISO6425 diving certification.
The 46.1mm case is matched with a black polyurethane strap for increased sportiness and utility. The dial not only the regular hours, minutes, and seconds but also a power reserve display, depth meter, and maximum depth memory display. The movement in charge of timekeeping duties is the caliber J250, an Eco-Drive movement with a potential power reserve of 330 days. That’s a lot of diving…
Conclusion
Dive watches are meant to help you in one of the most stressful times you can put yourself in. With the addition of a solar-powered movement, you get all the reliability and accuracy of a quartz watch with none of the battery-dying drawbacks.
A match made in heaven to be found at the depths of the ocean. Or at your desk in the office because the watch looks cool and you like the technological aspect of it – we won’t judge – as long as it makes you happy.
Whirlwind is the English translation for the french word, ‘tourbillon’. It was named tourbillon because it literally spins on itself and is constantly in a state of motion. However, it’s not what you’re thinking. A tourbillon is not just another superfluous complication designed out of vanity.
Patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, a tourbillon is a marvelous expression of fine watchmaking that defies conventional classification. Gravity is a force that can upset the accuracy of a timepiece when in certain positions leading to less accuracy and precision.
The tourbillon was thus designed to counter the effect of gravity on the regulating organ so that the watch can remain highly accurate no matter its position.
The fact that tourbillon watches are rare (and challenging to produce) confers a notable degree of scarcity in them, making them highly sought after by connoisseurs of exquisite timepieces. They are even considered the ‘Holy Grail’ of Haute Horologerie and are fashioned by the most talented and highly skilled watchmakers.
The escapement of a timepiece is often in a fixed position in each mechanical watch. This escapement includes a hairspring that is mounted on a balance wheel that rotates back and forth, and this is where the problem lies.
Since the balance wheel has some heavier spots due to its design, the gravitational effects on these areas affect the watch’s accuracy whenever it is positioned differently.
Abraham-Louis Breguet realized that the only way to solve this problem was to house the entire escapement in a rotating cage. If the balance wheel and hairspring are in constant motion, then no matter what position the watch is in, the variations in timing will be annulled.
Consequently, the tourbillon was developed by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the year 1795 and patented in 1801. The next important evolution of the tourbillon took place in 1902 when a flying tourbillon was developed by Alfred Helwig and his students. The so-called ‘flying’ tourbillon was designed to improve the stability and visual appeal of the standard tourbillon.
Unlike its predecessor, it was cantilevered. This means it was only supported on one side, rendering an unhinged view into the classical escapement.
After this innovative creation, the double-axis tourbillon followed in the 1980s and featured a design that could rotate the tourbillon cage in two axes. Today, inventions like gyro tourbillons and triple-axis tourbillons proudly display the aesthetic prowess of high-end watch brands.
What Is The Purpose of Tourbillon Watches?
The initial purpose of a tourbillon was to check the effects of gravity on the movement of pocket watches. Pocket watches were typically worn in a vertical position. They could stay in this position all day except for the minor instances in which the wearer moved them to find out the time.
This sort of positioning when in use and flat storage when not in use meant the movements of pocket watches were subject to unequal pressures upsetting their accuracy.
By rotating the escapement and balance wheel through all the probable vertical positions, the tourbillon could cancel out the pressure on the movement and improve the accuracy and longevity of the timepiece.
This invention was of great advantage, and tourbillons invaded the Horological world as soon as they arrived. However, with the advent of wristwatches around the time of World War 1, the relevance of the tourbillon waned.
The movements of wristwatches are not susceptible to the same pressure as pocket watches since they are worn on the wrist and often moved by the wearer, creating a sort of ‘tourbillon’.
In modern times, the tourbillon has evolved from a practical complication to a piece of engineering that demonstrates watchmakers’ craftsmanship, creativity, and aesthetic prowess.
35 Best Tourbillon Watches From Affordable To Luxury
With a price tag of fewer than $1,000, you’re not going to purchase the world’s most elaborate tourbillon. But the fact that you will get a distinguished timepiece with a real flying tourbillon movement is astonishing.
Lenvino is a Hong Kong watch brand known for creating authentic watches with premium materials. With its stainless steel circular case measuring 43mm in diameter and strap width of 20mm x 18mm, the Lenvino Tour Collection 02 is remarkably comfortable and suitable for most consumers.
The dial is ‘stripped’, drawing exclusive attention to the beautiful Flying Tourbillon relying on a cantilevered single support. The rotation is certainly a pleasure to behold when viewed from above, and the high quality is astonishing. The dial also has a grained texture and is adorned with printed Arabic numerals and skeleton alpha hands.
The Seagull TY800 real flying tourbillon movement vibrates at 21,600 beats per hour and provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.
Founded by Michael Galarza in 2018, ERA Timepieces is respected for keeping its promise. The young brand made a grand promise of offering ultra-rare and high-end haute horology complications in price tags that are accessible to all.
Whether the Prometheus Tourbillon lives up to the hype of delivering quality and craftsmanship worth a million dollars in a package just a little above $1,000 is up to the wearer. However, the timepiece is breathtaking.
The Prometheus Tourbillon is a big watch with a stainless case measuring 44mm across, a thickness of 12.7mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 51mm. The skeletonized dial features a pretty clever design with an exposed tourbillon carriage at 6 o’clock.
The embellished dial has been painstakingly created to dazzle the eye and pay tribute to Haute Horology. Oscillating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour is the Caliber HZ3360A. It is a Chinese tourbillon hand-wound movement with impressive accuracy and a power reserve of approximately 32 hours.
The watch is priced at approximately $1,500.
3. Stührling Viceroy Tourbillon 296D
Stührling is another watch brand that offers aesthetically pleasing timepieces at very affordable rates. At a diameter of 42 mm, the size is just ideal for showing off the details of the dial flawlessly.
The Chinese-made timepiece may not feature a flawless tourbillon escapement, but if you want to sport a watch with this complication and are under budget, you can begin from here.
The dial is highly legible with a guilloché-like pattern adorned with skeletonized alpha-styled hands and an exposed tourbillon movement. Applied Roman numerals juxtaposed with stick-style hour markers provide a nice contrast against the silver-plated dial.
The tourbillon mechanism is positioned at the lower end of the dial giving the watch an attractive and luxurious feel. It is water resistant only to a depth of 50 meters despite having a screw-down crown and features scratch-resistant Sapphire crystals in front and behind.
The watch is priced at $2,250.
4. Swatch Diaphane One Tourbillon (ref. SVAK1001)
Known for revolutionary ideas, Swatch is a watch brand famous for high-quality and stylish timepieces that defy the principles of quintessential Swiss watchmaking. The Ref. SVAK1001 is one such creative model with a joyful design that surprised Swatch fans when it was released in 2001.
Limited to 2222 pieces, the Diaphane One line contains Swatch’s most complicated watches. The 42mm case is made of plastic and aluminum (only the bezel material). The watch is classified as a Carrousel Tourbillion because it uses two different power sources—one for the escapement and another to regulate the rotation of the enclosure.
The whole faceplate rotates once every 30 minutes, so you have two rotations per hour. The magnificent open-worked dial is adorned with Lancette hands in addition to stamped Arabic numerals and stick hour markers.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is a skeletonized manual winding movement; the ETA 93.001 has been refined with several decorations. It provides a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.
TAG Heuer is a solid brand famous for utilizing avant-garde engineering in the production of its watches.
The Chronograph Tourbillon is presented in a large case that measures 45mm in diameter. The generous proportions are compensated for with a lightweight black PVD titanium case and carbon bezel.
The skeleton dial is nothing short of impressive, and including a tourbillon complication makes it more enthralling. The captivating flying tourbillon complication is housed in an aperture at the base of the dial.
Three rotating arms hold it in position, and a generous application of SuperLuminova on the balance wheel means the escapement will be legible even in low light. The dial is multiple layers adding impressive depth and beauty.
A 12-hour chronograph register resides at 9 o’clock, while a 30-minute chronograph register sits at 3 o’clock. Both registers are open-worked, revealing a vertically brushed surface underneath.
The in-house caliber HEUER02T COSC keeps the timepiece highly accurate and provides a power reserve of approximately 65 hours.
The Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture is presented in a 42mm rose gold-plated case that has been polished to the highest sheen. At the center of the brilliant silver dial, you will find a clous de Paris guilloché decoration and three sub-registers with crisp markings in black.
At 12 o’clock is the indicator for month and leap year, while the date is at 3 o’clock, and the day of the week is at 9 o’clock. The 60-minute tourbillon is located at the base of the dial in a large aperture that offers us a superb view of the tourbillon cage, balance wheel, and silicium escapement.
Slender hand-polished leaf-shaped hour and minute hands eloquently mark the large printed Roman numerals in black. Hyper-expensive movements are neglected for this piece, and a reliable and affordable one has been used here.
A pane of sapphire crystal across the case-back offers a breathtaking view of the FC-975 Manufacture caliber. It beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph and has a power reserve of 38 hours. The Frederique Constant Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Manufacture comes mounted on a quality alligator strap fitted with a deployant.
Inspired by the spirit of Haute Horologerie, the Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon is cleverly constructed with an unmatched presentation. The 18k rose gold case measures 42 mm in diameter and has been polished to the highest gleam. The slim height gives the watch a perfect wrist presence making it a choice dress watch.
The extremely detailed dial is exquisitely finished, and the breathtaking suspended Exo Tourbillon mechanism sits at the base of the dial. Exo is derived from a Greek word that means external.
As such, an impressively large balance wheel is elevated outside the tourbillon’s cage. Not only is this move aesthetically pleasing, but it also makes rotation seamless, thus increasing the efficiency of the movement. The main plate and bridges are entirely open-worked and visible via the timepiece’s front and back.
Underneath a domed crystal, the Ivory-coloured dial is adorned with 18k rose gold leaf-shaped hands, a minute track, and rose gold-coated Arabic numerals. Elaborately decorated with 188 hand-finished components is the MB M18.69 movement, capable of a power reserve of 50 hours.
Coming in a limited edition of 25 pieces, the Premier Chronograph Tourbillon is a heritage-inspired powerhouse that embodies Breitling’s most innovative legacy.
The timepiece is a reinterpretation of the original Breitling Premier watch from the 1940s and comes in a 42 mm 18k red gold case with a non-screw-locked crown and rectangular chronograph pushers.
The enchanting dial in British racing green has a distinguished two-tone finish and sets the stage for the exquisite tourbillon. The Star of the show takes center stage at 12 o’clock. An open sapphire crystal case back offers a gratifying view of the B21 movement where the reverse side of the tourbillon and the oscillating weight can be appreciated.
Other iconic details like grooves on the sides of the case, Arabic numerals, and vintage-inspired hands add elegance to the timepiece. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and matched with a gold-brown alligator strap.
Ulysse Nardin is a Swiss luxury watchmaker famous for manufacturing complex and highly accurate marine chronometers. The Ulysse Nardin Torpilleur Tourbillon is a charming illustration of the Brand’s Haute Horlogerie prowess and its deep respect for heritage.
The watch is complicated yet stunningly beautiful and is presented in an 18K rose gold case. The black enamel dial from Donzé Cadrans is nicely executed, and features rose gold ‘poires Roskopf’ hands that contrast against bold silver Roman numerals.
A power reserve indicator is at the upper half of the dial, presented in a subtle recessed sub-dial with “BAS” and “HAUT”, meaning full and empty in golden print. At the base of the dial is the elegant flying tourbillon with an underlying anchor offering a clear view of the tourbillon cage.
The watch is COSC-certified, and the tourbillon is fitted with an escapement fashioned completely in silicon. Since silicon is high performing, the operation is smooth with little exertion and lubrication.
The watch is powered by the in-house Caliber UN-128, an automatic movement with 208 components that provides a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
The Zenith Defy Double Tourbillon is an avant-garde piece with high-tech features that is both fascinating and rare. The carbon case measures 46mm across and has been constructed with ruggedness and durability in mind.
Two tourbillons proudly occupy the entire left side of the dial. Both of them have been suspended from the PVD-coated open-worked bridges with chamfers highlighted in rose gold.
The tourbillon, which has taken over the 7 and 8 o’clock index, acts as the escapement for the watch. On the other hand, the tourbillon at 10 o’clock acts as an escapement for the chronograph and beats at an impressive 50Hz (or 360,000 VpH). This means it completes a rotation every five seconds! Mind-blowing!
The open-worked dial features large silver-plated hands, a chronograph power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, and hour markers filled with Super-LumiNova for enhanced readability.
Zenith’s high-frequency El Primero automatic movement with 311 components provides a power reserve of 50 hours. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and comes equipped with a black rubber strap with a blue “Cordura effect”.
Bell & Ross might not be a very popular luxury watch brand, but its creation of quality timepieces for professional users such as divers and pilots has earned it reverence in the watch world.
The BR01 collection was launched in 2005 and has a lineup of mesmerizing watches with a design that resembles the classical style of cockpit clocks. The Bell & Ross BR 01 Tourbillon is a state-of-the-art timepiece with a large titanium case and black rubber bracelet.
The watch is rather bulky but is paired with a very light case and comes with a relatively small crown that will not dig into the wrist. The timepiece is functional and incorporates four complications. A regulator and a five-day power reserve have been positioned at 9 o’clock, while a sub-dial for the small hours counter is located at 12 o’clock.
At 3 o’clock is the optimum accuracy indicator, while the tourbillon with a black gold finish is positioned at 6 o’clock. Vivid red and yellow accents enliven the dial and add energy to the somber watch.
The design is particularly bold, and large lumed applied hands and indices on the black dial keep the watch extremely legible and lively. The striking contrast of white on black means the time can be easily read at a glance anytime, anywhere. It is water-resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by a manual winding movement.
Initially designed as a prototype at the request of the Royal Italian Navy in 1936, the Radiomir was the first special luminous timepiece for divers from Panerai.
The Tourbillon GMT Ceramica pays tribute to Galileo Galilei for his significant contributions to the fields of astronomy and science. “Lo Scienziato” means the scientist, and this timepiece is nothing short of what you’d expect from a reputable watch brand like Panerai.
The watch is truly unique and comes in a 48mm wide imposing dark monochrome case that has been made from zirconium oxide. The case size means the watch is really large and solid, with a notable wrist presence.
The refined skeleton structure of the dial is highly legible, unlike many open-worked dials. Lumed Arabic numerals have been used for 12, 3, 6, and 9, while bar markers are used for the others.
The tourbillon is elegantly positioned between 9 and 12 o’clock and is astonishing with its unusual axis and fast spin of 30 seconds per revolution.
A small seconds sub-dial is at 9 o’clock, while a timezone day/night indicator is positioned at 3 o’clock. It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is powered by a skeleton hand-wound mechanical movement; the Panerai P.2005/Scalibere.
The watch is priced at approximately $150,000.
13. Vulcain Tourbillon (ref. 620565Q18.BGK101)
The Vulcain Tourbillon Ref. 620565Q18.BGK101 is presented in a 42mm rose gold case with a thickness of 12.50mm which gives it an ideal weight and wrist presence. Vulcain is a Swiss watch brand with over 150 years of producing quality timepieces. Though not popular, the marque’s haute horlogerie prowess can be seen in this exquisite timepiece.
The tourbillon, which is highly polished and presented with sharp external angles, takes the spotlight between 8 and 10 o’clock. The semi-skeleton dial is satin-like and features a circular charcoal grey texture enlivened by gold Arabic numerals juxtaposed with rectangular markers.
The dial’s symmetry is harmonious, with a black and gold tone-on-tone layout that adds profound elegance and style to the timepiece. Among other stand-out features, the watch is powered by the mechanical hand-wound Vulcain Tourbillon V- 62 caliber. It is a robust movement with an impressive power reserve of 120 hours.
The Vulcain Tourbillon is worn on a hand-sewn black Louisiana alligator strap which is secured to the wrist by a folding clasp buckle made of pink gold.
The Breguet Marine “Grande Complication” Tourbillon is a true classic, with an extra touch of first-class sophistication.
Breguet is renowned for manufacturing complex timepieces, and this one is an ode to the ingenuity of the Haute Horologerie brand. The state-of-the-art watch is termed a “Grande Complication” because it features a perpetual calendar, an equation of time, and the latest tourbillon.
Introduced at Baselworld in 2017, the timepiece pays homage to the appointment of Abraham-Louis as the official watchmaker of the French Navy. It was in 1815 that Louis XVIII, the King of France, appointed him “Horloger de la Marine Royale”. This timepiece preserves traditional techniques and reinstates Marque’s unparalleled patrimony in the sphere of uber-complicated watches.
The striking guilloche-peaked wave motif underscores the connection between the Marine line and the sea. It is adorned with rose gold moon-tipped hands with luminescent material and applied Roman numerals. The perpetual calendar is paired with the equation of time display. In a window between seven and nine o’clock, you will find a power reserve indicator.
A mechanical self-winding movement, the caliber 581DPE with 57 jewels and 563 components provides a power reserve of 80 hours.
The Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Squelette 8 Jours Red Gold is presented in a 38mm 18kt red gold case with a classical Swiss design. The watch’s size might be a bit diminutive by modern standards, but the lugs are slightly rounded, ensuring a comfortable fit.
Blancpain is a brand that is famous for its daring pieces in the horological arena, and the Squelette 8 Jours takes us right into the future. There is almost no dial, and the movement is what appears as the backdrop for the slenderred-goldd hands.
Inside the bezel of the contemporary-shaped case, a bold ring in black has red gold Roman numerals to ease time telling. The tourbillon is elegantly positioned at 12 o’clock, drawing deserved attention to the dial upon each glance.
The power reserve indicator can be found at 5 and 7 o’clock, while at 9 o’clock is the rotary date indicator which is a very helpful feature for the modern man. The watch is splendid, easy to use, and houses the manually wound Calibre 1333SQ, a skeletonized movement with a power reserve of 8 whole days.
Released in a limited edition of just 25 pieces worldwide, the Glashütte Original Senator Tourbillon Ref. 1-94-03-05-04-30 is a classic timepiece in the purest sense of the word.
The watch comes in a white gold case, measures 42 mm across and is perfect for a comfortable fit. The case features satin-brushed and polished surfaces with soldered lugs, faceted with polished edges. The varnish silver-grainé dial features a fine matte finish with blued steel hands.
A large date window at 12 o’clock reveals the date with the help of two discs of the same height that are separated from each other only with a faint arcing line. The date window is stepped and feels subtly abstract, adding a bit of depth to the dial.
The tourbillon is positioned at the base of the dial, and its rotating cage is framed by a clean track denoting the seconds. An automatic movement, the Calibre 94-03, is visible through the sapphire case back of the watch.
It is mounted on a dark blue Louisiana alligator leather strap, equipped with a foldover clasp in white gold.
The 43mm case of the Omega De Ville Tourbillon Numbered Edition is crafted from polished 18k Sedna gold and brims with notable grace and poise. The central part of the case has been brushed with 18k Canopus gold. Sedna gold is Omega’s proprietary pink gold, while Canopus gold is the brand’s proprietary white gold alloy.
The black dial is quite discreet, with a radial brushed pattern exquisitely executed with multiple layers that enliven the watch and give it profound depth. The design is luxurious yet modest, focusing on the tourbillon at the central part of the watch. The tourbillon is impressive, with a modernized cage made of black ceramic titanium and hand-polished bevels.
It is encircled by a fluted gold ring, which functions as a decoration and a small seconds track. Applied gold indexes and small faceted gold hands adorn the dark dial. It is powered by the robust in-house – hand-wound movement, the Omega caliber 2640. Being a Master Chronometer, the timepiece is highly accurate, durable, and resistant to shocks. It comes with a 5-year warranty.
The Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is a complex watch with an aggressive design that just puts it in a league of its own.
The watch is the first complicated mechanical timepiece from Grand Seiko in its six decades of uninterrupted production and is nothing short of impressive. For the brand, it is its first mechanical tourbillon, skeletonized timepiece, and first constant-force mechanism watch.
It is arrayed with a sophisticated skeletonized, and delicately finished movement flaunting a tourbillon and a one-second remontoir on the same axis.
The case of the watch is constructed from 950 platinum and the Marque’s Brilliant Hard Titanium and measures a fitting 43.8 mm x 12.9 mm. The watch’s overall design is far from the familiar Grand Seiko layout and aesthetic but still enchanting and elegant.
The soul of the watch is the tourbillon and constant-force mechanism located at the base (6 o’clock). The rare mechanical complication combined on a single axis improves chronometry. The Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon is driven by the Calibre 9ST1, the first open-worked movement from GS from an aesthetic viewpoint with components that gleam in the light. It provides a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde is an incredible watch with a strikingly attractive design that is not loud or messy but contains a lot of information. The platinum case measures 44.2 mm in diameter and features a polished, beveled bezel with sloping lugs.
The refined appearance of the silver-plated dial is fashioned to maximize the interplay of light and is pretty much unadorned. The cleanness of the dial draws attention to the tourbillon at first glance, which is located at 12 o’clock.
The beautiful floating tourbillon is mounted on one side only against a dense background, allowing us to view the escapement and its mechanical sections below. As expected, the finishing of the highest standard with a decoration fits the movement’s geometric style perfectly.
The see-through sapphire crystal case back offers a generous view of the in-house 51900 caliber, a mechanical movement with 44 jewels, and an outstanding power reserve of 7 days (168 hours).
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph is a distinguished watch that features a tourbillon, an ultra-thin BVL 388 skeleton movement, and a chronograph.
It is the world’s thinnest tourbillon chronograph and is presented in an octagonal sandblasted grade 5 titanium case with many facets. The look of the watch is spectacular and aggressively angular with a round bezel.
Bvlgari reasserts its dominance in ultra-thin watchmaking with this unconventionally slim timepiece that is only 7.4 mm in height.
The watch has a monochromatic look with a truly superb skeletonized matte grey dial, as sections of it have been done away with to reveal the tourbillon escapement and the mainspring.
There are no hour markers that might hinder legibility, but there’s a perfect amount of symmetry and organization in the way the dial has been laid out.
The running seconds’ indicator is at 9 o’clock while the chronograph minutes is at 3 o’clock. The hands are skeletonized, and the tourbillon sits at 6 o’clock. Driving the watch is the Calibre BVL 388, operating at a rate of 21600 VpH with a power reserve of 52 hours when fully wound.
The Chopard L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon is a wonderfully constructed timepiece with three certificates. The name is derived from the COSC (a timing certificate), Geneva Seal ( this is issued by the Canton of Geneva for timepieces manufactured there), and Fleurier Quality Foundation label.
This last certification is one of the most stringent quality tests in the watch-making industry. For a timepiece to be FQF certified, it must have surpassed the reliability, timing, and technical criteria.
The watch is presented in a contemporary-sized 43 mm platinum case with alternative polished and satin-brushed surfaces. The 8-day power reserve indicator sits at 12 o’clock while the tourbillon is at the base of the dial.
Black rail-track minute markers frame the dial, and it is adorned with applied Roman numerals. Thanks to two sets of double barrels, the calibre L.U.C 02.13-L, made entirely of 18-carat gold, provides an impressive nine-day power reserve when fully wound.
Vincent Deprez is a French watchmaker known for making discreet yet beautifully executed timepieces in the most traditional way possible. The Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition is an ode to the relatively young brand and reflects the goal of using mostly traditional tools and techniques.
The watch is made by hand using traditional tools and is finely executed with overall coherence and a lot of attention to each detail. The watch measures a wearable 39 mm and features an open dial with a 60-second tourbillon.
A large sub-dial for the hours and minutes features a grand feu enamel that has been fired by Vincent himself. The tourbillon is somewhat large at 12.6mm in diameter and is framed with a second chapter ring at 8 o’clock. The proportions are classical; the visible main plate has a traditional frosted finish resembling historic high-end watches.
Oscillating at a rate of 18,000 vibrations/hour is an in-house hand-wound movement with 15 jewels and a power reserve of 52 hours. Nothing is ostentatious, but the overall design is elegant and clean.
Famous for avant-garde complications and breathtaking designs, Carl F Bucherer is an independent Swiss watch brand with a rich tradition that dates back to the 1880s. The luxury watch brand has made its mark in the world of Horology and this unique timepiece showcases the brand’s signature complication.
The Double Peripheral Tourbillon is a complication that features a winding mechanism that does not rotate on the top of the movement. Rather than that, it rotates around the movement without obscuring the view.
Carl F. Bucherer has made the watch sophisticated and enchanting in that the tourbillon can easily be termed a super-flying tourbillon. The silver-colored dial of the 43 mm 18K red gold case is adorned with gold-plated indices and lancet-shaped hands.
The tourbillon is elegantly positioned at 12 o’clock and has a hand that acts as the seconds display. The cage has no visible bridges holding the device in place, but the weight is supported by three ceramic ball bearings that ensure a stable connection and smooth run.
The pallet and escape wheel of the escapement are made with the anti-magnetic silicium allowing an increased power reserve of 65 hours.
Parmigiani seems to be aggressively invading the hyper-competitive realm of sophisticated watches. From the Tonda PF collection that debuted in 2021 to this flying tourbillon released in 2022, the brand continues to surprise us with heavenly delights.
The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Flying Tourbillon is an unconventional timepiece equipped with a flying tourbillon in a somber platinum dial that bestows undivided attention to the tourbillon.
The 42mm platinum case has a thin profile of 8.6mm with teardrop-shaped lugs and a screw-down crown that ensures 100 meters of water resistance. The flying tourbillon is positioned between 6 and 8 o’clock and is the star of the show, mesmerizing viewers with its mirror-polished screws that dazzle in the light.
The 18-carat gold delta-shaped hour and minute hands are open-worked and rhodium-plated. The indexes are short and are also crafted out of 18-carat gold and rhodium-plated. Encircling the main dial is a slightly recessed minute track denoted by short black lines. The watch is powered by Parmigiani’s ultra-thin automatic PF517 movement.
The Cartier Drive de Cartier Flying Tourbillon is an exquisite watch with a retro touch that bolsters its refined look. The 47mm case is impeccably polished and compelling, with a shape that is neither round nor square but looks like a turtle shell.
The dial is an exquisite display of intricate guilloche finishing on a satin-brushed surface. The outer section of the dial is open-worked with black transferred Roman numerals that look like they are about to burst through the case.
Underneath the hour markers, a white galvanized surface beams with a sunray effect. Pared down to the bare essentials, blued-steel sword-shaped hour and minute hands adorn the stark dial while the tourbillon occupies the base.
The flying tourbillon complication and C-shaped tourbillon carriage double as a small seconds indicator. Oscillating at 21,600 vibrations/hour is the caliber 9452 MC, a manual winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of approximately 50 hours.
It is water resistant to a depth of 100 meters and is certified “Poinçon de Genève”. This seal is a guarantee of authentication awarded only to watches with outstanding finishing and quality materials.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon is an elegant and discreet watch that is presented in a refined 40 mm 18K pink gold case. The pink gold case is entirely polished with a thickness of 11.3 mm, which is decent for an automatic tourbillon.
The mechanically complex timepiece is charming, refined, and compelling. The beautiful dial is presented in an “eggshell shade” with a slightly grained texture. The hands are half polished and half brushed, while the hour markers are gilded and facetted.
At the base of the dial is the tourbillon. It is encircled by a small seconds track and showcases Jaeger-LeCoultre’s exceptional watchmaking savoir-faire. The bridge of the tourbillon is a rounded mirror-polished arm that crosses over the tourbillon cage, giving viewers a breathtaking view of the tourbillon’s ballet.
Visible through the sapphire crystal case back is the in-house Caliber 979G with 33 jewels and a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a brown alligator strap with a pin buckle.
The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Tourbillon is a masterpiece offering a supreme vision of elegance. The 45mm case is crafted from titanium and 18kt white gold, and the look of the watch isn’t one you see every day.
The dial is skillfully crafted with a matted gray of the same color as the case and an octagonal bezel is inserted within a circle.
The flying tourbillon, positioned at the base of the dial is the prima donna, enchanting the wearer with her outstanding performance. A lone bridge made of titanium sits across both sides of the cage, breaking up the congruous symmetry of the Clous de Paris pattern. The bridge resembles a double-headed arrow and supports the rotating tourbillon cage.
The watch is highly legible despite the tone-on-tone hands and indexes. Visible via the exhibition case back is the Calibre GP 09510-0002. It contains 33 jewels and provides a power reserve of 48 hours.
H. Moser & Cie. is an exemplar of haute horlogerie with a reputation for crafting exquisite timepieces with complications of the highest standard.
The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Tourbillon is a highly desirable watch in a stainless steel case measuring 42.8 mm across. The case is without flaws and features alternating polished and brushed surfaces. It also has a screw-down crown that bears witness to the 120 meters water-resistant capacity of the watch.
The gradient or fume dial is a beauty to behold, and the coloration is altered according to the light reflecting on it. It is decorated with clean, hand-applied multi-faceted indexes. At 6 o’clock is a large tourbillon which makes a full rotation every 60 seconds. An opening on the dial offers a first-row view of its beating heart.
Nothing is on the dial apart from the hands, indexes, and of course tourbillon. The H. Moser & Cie calligraphic logo finishes it off with elegance and style. It is powered by the in-house caliber HMC 804. This movement is fitted with a double flat hairspring and powers the watch for up to 3 days.
Coming as a tribute to François-Paul’s earliest watches, the Tourbillon Souverain Calibre is a magnificent watch with an unconventional design. The timepiece draws inspiration from the brand’s first clocks and pocket watches and brings all the distinctive elements into one design.
One thing that is glaring when you take a look at this watch is how it dispenses with extreme care the tourbillon at 9 o’clock. Time is indicated on an off-centered dial that is positioned at 3 o’clock while the tourbillon sits in an aperture that has a complete mirror polished rim with a beaming countenance.
The platinum case measures a fitting dimension of 40 mm across and features a fully polished finish, a domed bezel, and a flat crown. The background, which is noticeable on glancing at the watch, is the base plate of the movement as the watch has no dial.
The base plate is finished with a Clous de Paris guilloché pattern. In addition to the tourbillon and off-centered dial, it houses a power reserve at the top and a deadbeat seconds at the base.
The timepiece is exquisite, smart, crisp, and eminently practical.
Piaget is a brand with over 100 years of extensive expertise in fine horology. The Emperador Tourbillon is one of the brand’s most enthralling creations that shows the Marque’s ingeniousness in terms of technology.
This timepiece pushes the boundaries of creativity with an ultra-thin movement that plunges us into the magical world of Piaget’s mechanics.
The watch comes in an 18K white gold case that measures 46.5 mm across — it is a really large watch — with a thickness of 10.4 mm. The flying tourbillon movement sits in an aperture with a wide mirror polished rim at one o’clock. It has been conscientiously decorated and polished to the highest level.
Something fascinating about this timepiece is the off-centered oscillating weight turned around to exhibit the micro-rotor in white gold. Piaget distribution of mirthful moving parts in the watch’s dial creates the shape of a Lucky 8 since the P-shaped tourbillon cage is opposite the micro-rotor.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Ref. 6000V/110A-B544 is presented in a stainless steel case that measures 42.5mm in diameter. Its height of 10.39 mm, coupled with inward sloping case flanks, keeps the large watch snugly fitted on the wrist.
The case is exquisitely finished with a brushed finish on the top surface and a mirror finish on the edges. The beautiful Laiton Générique CuZn dial features hands and hour markers crafted from 18k white gold.
Both hands and hour markers are coated with luminescent material to ensure legibility during the day and night. The tourbillon at 6 o’clock has a cage inspired by the Maltese cross and performs one revolution per minute. It also serves as a small seconds display.
Visible through the open-worked case back is the Caliber 2160, an aesthetically pleasing movement with 188 parts that provides a power reserve of approximately 80 hours. Thanks to a peripheral rotor in use and not the ubiquitous central rotor, the self-winding movement is just 5.65mm high.
The watch features a quick-release mechanism at the lugs and is delivered with straps in steel bracelet, crocodile, or rubber.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon comes in an 18-carat white gold case that measures a fitting 41 mm x 10.6 mm. The case and bracelet are finely brushed and polished while the bezel is finished with a new “frosted” technique.
The distinctive feature of the watch is found in the dial. The blue Grande Tapisserie dial has a breathtaking dimpled texture with a circular brushing that offers it profound depth and a unique interplay of light.
The flying tourbillon is visible at 6 o’clock through a round aperture on the dial. Since it has been secured only on its lower point, it does not have a bridge. As such, the tourbillon cage can be relished with no hindrance. The hour markers and hands are in white gold with a luminescent coating.
The watch is powered by the in-house Calibre 2950, an automatic movement with 270 components and 27 jewels. Its running time is approximately 65 hours when fully wound.
Patek Philippe’s inventions are always state-of-the-art pieces. They always come with an understated elegance that bespeaks confidence and exclusivity.
The Grand Complications Platinum Tourbillon is a beautiful watch demonstrating the Marque’s superlative watchmaking prowess. Everything is spectacular and refined, from the design to the construction and finishing.
The timepiece is termed a grand complication because it is equipped with a tourbillon, a minute repeater, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar. The calendar is termed “instantaneous” because registers on the dial for the month, day of the week, and date all turnover in unison as soon as it strikes midnight.
The platinum case is 40.2 mm in diameter and just a little over 13 mm in height. The black enamel dial is adorned with gold-applied hour markers and faceted dauphine-style hands. At 6 o’clock, you’ll find the moon phase and sub-seconds with an arched date display right above.
At 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock, you will find the day and month apertures. Unlike other brands that proudly flaunt their tourbillons, Patek Philippe has kept the tourbillon under the dial, concealing the wealth of the wearer.
The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Tourbillon Ref. 730.079 is presented in a 39.5 mm polished platinum case with a brushed case band. The glossy white dial is a pure interpretation of classical pocket watches from the 19th century and is dressed with blue steel hands.
The red 12 index is a feature found on ancient pocket watches of the brand, and it adds a notable degree of gracefulness to the timepiece. The sword-shaped hour and minute hands reach out towards Arabic numerals, which have been fired and printed neatly with great diligence.
Positioned just beyond the hour markers, a minute track with short black lines encircles the main dial. The one-minute-tourbillon straddles the lower portion of the dial and its presence animates the entire face of the watch.
The watch features a Zero-Reset mechanism which allows time adjustment to the nearest second and a stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon. As such, the seconds’ hands can be reset to the zero position when the crown is being pulled.
A glance through the sapphire crystal case back reveals an excellently finished and decorated movement; the L102.1. It is a hand-wound with a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.
Richard Mille is an exclusive brand that focuses on the production of ultra-luxury Haute Horlogerie timepieces. Nicknamed the “Billionaire’s Handshake”, the watches from the Swiss watchmaker are famous for housing technically complicated mechanisms.
The RM 47 Tourbillon was released in a limited edition of just 75 pieces after 4 years of intense work by some of the best horologists and craftsmen. Inspired by the philosophy of Bushido and paying tribute to the ancient samurai culture, this timepiece emphasizes extraordinary aesthetics and unmatched technicalities.
The watch is presented in a black PRP ceramic tonneau-shaped case with a 3N yellow gold case band and a black TZP ceramic bezel and case back. A single glance plunges us into Richard’s magical world of mechanics. A samurai armor at the central part of the watch has been crafted out of solid gold with artistic details painstakingly designed by the famous hand engraver Pierre-Alain Lozeron.
Among other stand-out features, a crossed pair of falcon feathers lies at six o’clock to immortalize the Asano clan’s heraldic Kamon. Overall, the design is luxurious, excellently executed, and enchanting, as you would expect from such a brand.
The watch is priced at approximately $1,000,000.
CONCLUSION
The tourbillon has evolved from a functional architectural device to a romantic emblem today, but it will forever remain a classic expression of high watchmaking.
It’s been over 200 years since its invention, yet only a handful of established watch brands have mastered the art of tricking gravity by use of a tourbillon. Less than that amount dare to provide a fitting tribute to this splendid expression of high watchmaking because of the complexity and high-end craftsmanship required.
As a result, these watches are always very expensive. Expect to spend from $15,000 to price tags that break the six-figure barrier for a Swiss-made tourbillon watch.
This article is a celebration of two of the most admired watchmaking advancements in the evolution of timekeeping. The first is the Tourbillon and the second is the skeleton design of timepieces that reveal all of their inner workings via see-through crystals.
One is a feat of watchmaking genius, and the other elevates the watch’s mechanical function to a work of art. The design, finishes, and adornments reflected in high-end luxury skeleton watches range from beautiful to mesmerizing.
Coupled with a tourbillon, this category of watches raises the bar for what can be achieved by a watchmaker who doesn’t limit themselves to the proven and ordinary but dares to shoot for the stars in creating breathtaking works of precision and art. I will start by defining what a tourbillon is and what defines a skeletal watch.
What Is a Tourbillon?
A tourbillon is a complication in a timepiece that counteracts the effects of gravity to improve the watch’s accuracy. The tourbillon was created and patented by Abraham Louis Breguet in 1801. It is an addition to the watch escapement in the movement.
In a tourbillon, the balance wheel and escapement are affixed in a rotating cage. Since the tourbillon assembly is constantly moving, it makes the watch seem alive. The flying tourbillon was developed by German watch instructor Alfred Helwig in 1920.
Rather than being supported on the top or the bottom by a bridge, the flying tourbillon is cantilevered, being supported on only one side. Each model in this article features a tourbillon or a flying tourbillon incorporated into its movement.
What Is a Skeleton Watch?
By definition, a skeleton watch is one where the watch’s movement is visible through either the front or rear crystal of the timepiece. In keeping a more purist perspective, to qualify for this list, each watch had to be lacking a dial and have a full exhibition back.
I refer to this as purism because where every component is exposed, watchmakers will go to incredible lengths to meticulously polish and finish every element, no matter how small or intricate, to create works of art. There is nothing to hide when everything is on display.
The decorations, graining, and hand beveling reflected in these movements are exceptional and extraordinary. The additional vision, design, and labor invested in beautifying an otherwise mechanical machine-like object elevate the desire for excellence and sophistication that a mere luxury watch with an easily recognizable brand name will not quench.
The 15 Best Skeleton Tourbillon Watches
Now that we have an overview of what tourbillon and skeleton watches are, I have compiled the following list of 15 of the finest depictions of this combination in a timepiece. Given the complexity of the tourbillon and the excessive finishes on display in a skeleton watch, they are well worth their high prices.
Those who own these watches understand the countless hours of design, research, development, and craftsmanship invested in bringing these timepieces to life. These watches are for the connoisseurs of Haute Horlogerie.
1. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Skeleton
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ref. 6000V/110R-B934 comes in an 18-carat 5N rose gold case and bracelet. The case measures 42.5 mm x 10.39 mm and boasts one of the thinnest movements in this category, measuring a mere 5.65 mm thick. The watch has sapphire crystals on both the case’s front and rear, showcasing the intricate movement.
The caliber 21605Q automatic self-winding movement beats at 18,000 VpH, has 186 components, 30 jewels, and a power reserve of 3 days. The movement parts are treated in gunmetal gray, with the tourbillon placed at the six o’clock position and featuring a 22-carat gold peripheral weight.
The watch has an 18-carat rose-fluted gold crown and rose gold hands and indexes treated with Super-LumiNova. Offsetting the skeletal dial is a black outer dial ring with 60-minute increments in white. The timepiece is water-resistant to 50 meters, and its price is available upon request.
This timepiece is beautifully finished and designed, incorporating bold colors contrasting against the movement components and stainless steel case. The watch measures 44mm in diameter and measures 13.7mm thick.
It is water-resistant to 50 meters and has a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment on both sides. The watch features an off-centered hour and minute indicator at five o’clock, the tourbillon at one o’clock, and the small seconds retrograde at eleven o’clock.
The in-house tourbillon automatic “irreversible” caliber TSE 122.00 movement has a micro-rotor and vibrates at 21,600 VpH. It has 256 components, 40 jewels, and a power reserve of 70 hours.
Another feature of this movement is a balance wheel with fixed inertia, manufactured in-house and incorporating the SE logo. The watch features a Phillips flat spiral terminal coil manufactured by E20 and a titanium retrograde lever.
The dial is brass and silver, and the hours, minutes, and retrograde seconds come in either green aventurine or turquoise blue lapis lazuli fine stones. Hands are rhodium-treated brass filled with Super-LumiNova.
Depending upon your choice of green or blue colors, the watch is finished with a black alligator strap hand stitched in either green or blue and a stainless steel folding buckle with the Schwarz Etienne logo. Its approximate retail price is $67,700.00
3. Jaquet Droz Tourbillon Skelet Sapphire
The Jaquet Droz Ref. J0135270021 has a subtle and subdued appearance, rich in gray and silver colors. The Jaques Droz caliber 2625SQ self-winding skeleton tourbillon movement features a silicon balance spring and pallet horns set upon the titanium tourbillon frame.
It has a single barrel, an 18-carat white gold custom engraved oscillating weight. The movement houses 30 jewels, has a power reserve of 7 days and vibrates at 21,600 VpH. Indications are off-center hours and minutes at six o’clock and off-center seconds hands at twelve o’clock. The 42mm size case sits 13.76mm on the wearer’s wrist.
The sapphire case is made up of 18-carat white gold tubes and bar inserts, with an 18-carat white gold crown completing the case. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters. The timepiece features a sapphire dial and base and is adorned with 18-carat white gold indexes and 18-carat white gold fixing axes.
The hour and minute hands are crafted in 18-carat white gold that has been treated with a black finish, and the seconds’ hands are made of 18-carat red gold and also finished with a black treatment. Finishing the watch’s appearance is an alligator strap with a stainless steel and plasma ceramic folding clasp.
4. Panerai Luminor Tourbillon GMT
The Panerai Ref. PAM01060 is constructed of 18-carat rose gold and features Panerai’s trademarked crown protection system. The timepiece measures 47mm in diameter and is outfitted with sapphire crystals on both the front and rear of the watch case. Most visible components are dark blue, with Arabic numerals placed at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock.
These are all treated in Super-LumiNova for excellent visibility in the dark. The rose gold hands are also treated in Super-LumiNova. The hand-wound mechanical caliber P.2005/T movement vibrates at 28,800 VpH and features a glucydor balance, three barrels, 277 components, and a six-day power reserve.
The watch is also outfitted with an incabloc anti-shock device to protect the movement. The watch is water resistant to 50 meters and is delivered with a stitched dark blue alligator strap. Its approximate retail price is $180,000.00
5. Speake Marin Openworked Tourbillon
This tourbillon timepiece is one of the more affordable to appear on this list but easily holds its own with its design, execution, and beautiful finishes. The watch comes in a 38mm or 42mm diameter titanium case. The interesting design feature of this watch is that the tourbillon is positioned at the 1:30 position. Speake Marin has stated that this is the only watch with the tourbillon at that position.
The caliber SMA05 automatic self-winding movement has a flying tourbillon featuring an integrated micro-rotor. It is easily observed through the open exhibition back and front sapphire crystal treated with an anti-reflective coating. The power reserve is 72 hours, and there is a power reserve indicator at the 7:30 position.
The dial is open-worked with a black micro-blasted matte finish. The prominent silver coloring is tastefully decorated. The hands are heart-shaped, blue colored, and the watch is coupled with a black alligator strap. 30-meter water resistance rounds out the watch’s technical specifications. Approximate retail price of $20,600.00 for the 38mm or $21,300.00 for the 42mm.
6. Hublot Big Bang Tourbillon Auto Black Magic 45mm
This is one of the larger tourbillon watches mentioned in this article and offers Hublot’s distinctive and trademark look in a skeletonized version. The HUB6035 caliber automatic self-winding tourbillon movement incorporates ball bearings and provides a convenient three-day power reserve.
The new caliber design features a micro-rotor on the dial side and three sapphire bridges. The watch is comprised of a total of 243 components. The case and bezel are constructed of polished black ceramic with a micro-blasted finish. The front crystal is a scratch-resistant sapphire that has been anti-reflective treated.
The rear features an exhibition back. The timepiece has a sapphire dial and is water-resistant to 30 meters. The watch has been paired with a black structured lined rubber strap with a black ceramic and black plated titanium deployment buckle clasp. Approximate retail price of $100,000.00
7. Piaget Polo Emperador Skeleton Tourbillon
This beautiful Piaget Ref. GOA40041 comes in an 18-carat white gold cushion-shaped case that measures 46.5mm by 8.85mm thick. Piaget touts this watch as having the thinnest ultra-thin automatic tourbillon skeleton movement.
The watch features sapphire crystals on both the front and the rear of the watch case showing off the automatic self-winding caliber 1270S movement. Highlights of the movement include a platinum oscillating weight, an off-center gold micro-rotor, and a titanium tourbillon carriage.
There is extensive hand beveling and finishes reflected throughout the movement’s parts. The movement vibrates at 21.600 VpH, has 225 components, 35 jewels, and a power reserve of 42 hours. The timepiece is water-resistant to 30 meters and is finished with a black alligator strap with a folding clasp. Price is available upon request from Piaget.
This watch’s highlight is the fully skeletonized in-house caliber HMC811 cylindrical tourbillon automatic movement. Due to the movement’s design, it appears to be three-dimensional. One immediate outstanding aesthetic feature of the watch is the blue domed subdial at six o’clock.
The highlight of this movement is that it combines an in-house produced cylindrical hairspring with a one-minute flying tourbillon at six o’clock. This is responsible for the precision experienced with this model. The power reserve capacity is 72 hours.
The cylindrical hairspring performs superbly because the period of oscillation is constant regardless of amplitude. The combination of the tourbillon with the hairspring is something to be admired for its function and appearance.
Enhancing the movement’s appearance is a gold skeletonized oscillating weight that is contrasted by the dark main plate and bridges that are finished with anthracite PVD. The stainless steel case measures 42.8mm in diameter by 15.3mm in height.
The case has a domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a screw-down crown. Water resistance is rated at 120 meters. The timepiece features green glowing luminescent hands and indices. A black alligator leather strap completes the watch’s presentation. The approximate retail price is $87,000.00
9. Breguet Classique “Grande Complication” Tourbillon Extra Plat Squelette 5395
Abraham Louis Breguet is credited for inventing the tourbillon in 1801. This model is an excellent example of the design and manufacturing genius of the Breguet family. One prominent characteristic of this timepiece is the self-winding movement with a peripheral platinum oscillating weight.
The caliber 581SQ in-house automatic movement vibrates at 4 Hz and features 33 jewels and a total of 325 components. Another outstanding feature of this watch is that it is ultrathin for a timepiece housing 325 components.
The case is only 7.7mm thick and is the thinnest model of the fifteen watches discussed in this article. It has a diameter of 41mm and is constructed of Rose gold. The case is beautifully fluted in a vertical pattern all the way around with a matching fluted crown.
The front and back are protected by sapphire crystals, and the watch is water resistant to 30 meters. A brown stitched leather strap with a clasp featuring the Breguet logo completes this classic. The retail price is approximately $225,000.00
10. Louis Moinet Black Gold Derrick Tourbillon
An impeccably finished skeletonized manual winding tourbillon movement fashioned and formed in the appearance of an oil derrick. This is truly a unique design and highlights a collection of watches that are cutting-edge in every aspect of the watchmaking process.
The drive shaft is located to the right of the dial between the 2 and 4 o’clock positions and powers a long articulated arm known as the walking beam. This is located between the 10 and 12 o’clock positions.
The most striking visual characteristic is the oblong-shaped “head” located to the left. At the 9 o’clock position is a titanium barrel that is in constant rotation and is dedicated to marking seconds that are read off the bottom of the barrel on a red engraved seconds track.
The case measures 45.4mm in diameter and is constructed of 18-carat white gold. Finishes are both polished and matte, and the bezel features six evenly placed screws at the 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12 o’clock positions.
The in-house caliber LM14D movement vibrates at 21,600 VpH, has 27 jewels, and a power reserve of 72 hours. A sapphire top crystal and exhibition back complete the case. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters. It is delivered with a black alligator strap and an 18-carat white gold clasp. The approximate retail price of $285,000.00.
11. Bovet 1822 Battista Tourbillon
This model has been developed as a partnership between Bovet Watch and the Battista Automobili Pininfarina auto company. This is around the first all-electric supercar, the GT Hyper Car, manufactured by Pininfarina.
The watch is striking in both its design and attention to detail, as reflected in the various embellishments on both the front and rear of the movement. The 45.6 mm case has sapphire crystals on both the front and back but also has exposed sides on the case to view the movement from the side.
The two-tone blue dial complements the movement components as well as the double-sided 60-second flying tourbillon. The movement vibrates at 18,000 VpH and has an incredible power reserve capacity of 10 days.
In keeping with the company’s commitment to the environment and sustainability, the watch is completed with a black and blue vegan rubber strap. The price is available by inquiry to Bovet Watch Corporation.
12. Girard Perregaux Neo-Tourbillon with Three Bridges Skeleton
This is an essential addition to this list because it features the iconic three-bridge design Girard Perregaux created and first introduced in the 1860s. After the crisis caused by the introduction of quartz watches in the 1970s, G.P. reintroduced the three-bridge design in a limited edition pocket watch in 1980.
It took watchmakers more than 1500 hours to finish a single-pocket watch. The birth of the neo-tourbillon with three bridges design in 2014 has taken the original concept to a whole new level.
The titanium case measures 45mm in diameter and sits 15.6mm high on the wrist. Both the front and rear box crystals are crafted of scratch-resistant sapphire and have an anti-reflective coating. Functions of the watch include hours, minutes, and small seconds on the tourbillon, and the tourbillon.
The in-house caliber GP09400-0011 self-winding mechanical movement vibrates at 21,600 VpH. It has a total of 260 components and 27 jewels. The oscillating weight is a white gold micro-rotor, and the watch has a power reserve of 60 hours.
The dauphine-style hands are Super-LumiNova filled, and the watch is water-resistant to 30 meters. A black alligator strap with a triple-folding titanium clasp completes this handsome watch. The approximate retail price is $167,000.00
13. Blancpain Villeret Tourbillon Squelette 8 Jours
Though this watch is not categorized as a skeleton watch on the Blancpain website, it should be featured on this list. The only aspect of the watch keeping it from being completely skeletonized is a thin black ring with Roman numerals tracking the outer rim of the front crystal.
Otherwise, all components are readily visible through the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal front and exhibition back crystal. The case is crafted of the finest platinum and measures 37.5mm in diameter with a thickness of 10.4mm. There is a date wheel at the 9 o’clock position and a power reserve indicator at the six o’clock position.
The caliber 25 self-winding automatic movement vibrates at 3 Hz and has 233 components and 29 jewels. And a power reserve of 192 hours. The timepiece is water-resistant to 30 meters and is completed with a black alligator strap with a pin buckle. The watch retails for approximately $179,300.00
14. Audemars Piguet Tourbillon Openworked
The beautiful 18-carat pink gold case measures 41mm in diameter and is relatively thin at 10.7 mm. The case’s color enhances the 3-dimensional effect of the movement’s open-worked structure. The dial features a lacquered black inner bezel offset by a pair of 18-carat rose gold hands.
The watch features anti-reflective sapphire crystals in both the front and rear of the case. The front is unique in that the sapphire crystal is double-curved. Its internal surface is shaped like a dome but is vertically curved from six to twelve o’clock. At the heart of this timepiece is an in-house 2948 caliber hand-wound mechanical movement that vibrates at 21,600 VpH.
There are a total of 196 components, and it has 19 jewels and 72 hours of power reserve. The 30-meter water-resistant watch comes with a black alligator strap finished with an 18-carat pink gold folding clasp. The approximate retail price of this watch is $180,000.00
The final watch to make this list is the Omega ref. 513.53.39.21.99.001, which is different from the ones above, as it has a skeletal front and a solid caseback. The beautiful use of red gold coloring and the copper brown treatment of the movement parts make this model both stunning and aesthetically captivating.
The 18-carat red gold case measures 38.7 mm in diameter and is presented with an alligator-patterned brown leather strap with a fold-over clasp. The front crystal is sapphire and antireflective on both the inside and the outside. The self-winding Omega caliber 2635A movement features a tourbillon, a platinum oscillating weight, a co-axial escapement, and is a certified chronometer. The power reserve capacity is 45 hours.
Other significant features are the brown PVD-coated dial that is finished in a spiral pattern, as well as bridges that have been polished by hand. Another interesting component is that the 18-carat gold seconds hand is part of the tourbillon cage. The watch is also water resistant to 30 meters. It has an approximate retail price of $137,000.00
Final Thoughts
If you have a passion for fine watches and have the deep pockets to indulge in your pursuit, any of these timepieces will satisfy your desires. These watches have been chosen because they are skeletonized, feature the tourbillon, and have no other complications. There may be a date or power reserve indicator in one or two models, but for the most part, each watch needed to satisfy the two main criteria and nothing else.
Other watchhouses did not make this list for the reasons laid out in this article. These names have also greatly contributed to the evolution of the tourbillon and the incorporation of the skeleton style into their collections. These fifteen are just a starting point. Some of the other brands you can consider are the following: Patek Philippe, Armin Strom, Cartier, A. Lange and Sohne, Chronoswiss, and others.
The most common word associated with watches these days is the word investment. People want to enjoy the benefits of wearing a quality timepiece and be sure it will always hold its value.
As a watch enthusiast, the first thoughts that come to mind anytime I set my eyes on a watch are the cost of the timepiece and how much value they hold. These are the honest thoughts of any collector because as much as everyone loves a quality watch, the cost is a big hindrance to many purchases.
Is Value Retention Important in Watches?
The meaning of value might differ from person to person. It might mean how much a particular piece costs and how much meaning a piece has to an individual. But when it comes to watches, the major factor that gives a watch value is how much it could cost in the future and, in this case, if the price would go higher or lower.
I always advise people just getting into watches and trying to get an affordable timepiece to purchase watches from known reputable brands to get a piece of top quality and one they would enjoy wearing.
Value retention does not play a role in this case. However, it is different when trying to purchase a watch that you can sell in the future for the same or a higher amount. In this case, the value retention of a timepiece is a very important factor.
What Makes a Watch Hold Its Value?
The cost of acquiring a watch is one of the qualities most people believe makes a watch hold value. From my experience as a collector, this is not always the case. There are lots of qualities a watch must have for it to be considered a timepiece that holds value.
Brand Recognition
In all honesty, I won’t want to start telling anyone about my watch when I’m asked what I have on my wrist; I always want my timepiece to make a statement with just the brand name. The hype that comes with having a Rolex or a Patek Philippe is exactly what brand recognition means.
The recognition a watch brand has is among the qualities that tell if a watch holds value or not because of the name such a brand has built for itself over the years. Watches like Jaeger-LeCoulture, Omega, Patek Philippe, and Rolex have been in existence for decades and are still known for not just their high costs but durability, quality, efficiency, and a whole bunch of other qualities that have kept them relevant to date.
The fact that these watch brands have created a reputable name for themselves has kept them in the market for hundreds of years. Customers trust their products, which has increased their sales over the years of their operations. The recognition these brands have in the world of watches is a major factor that has helped most of their products hold value for a long time.
Watch Materials
After considering the brand of a particular watch when trying to acquire a new timepiece, the materials used in making the watch are one major factor that keeps me glued. The metals and crystals used for the casing are one aspect to be accessed when looking at the materials used to make a watch. Most brands say they use quality stainless steel, but some of them make use of alloy or very cheap steel for the casing of the watches.
The most common grade of steel found in top luxury watches are 316L and 904L steels. Materials like gold and titanium are used to case some top quality watches like the Omega Seamaster 300, crafted with grade 2 titanium and currently worth $9,500; the Rolex Day-date President with 40mm casing and up to 100 grams of pure gold, this timepiece costs up to $40,000.
Movement
One thing that blew my mind when I started getting into watches was the fact that the movement of a watch could determine the value associated with timepieces. There are two different movements in the world of watches, the Quartz that ticks every second and the mechanical watches with a sweeping seconds hand movement.
The mechanical watches are always more expensive than the others, mainly due to the effort put into the mechanism.
Watch Exclusivity
A watch like the Patek Philippe Henry Grave Super Complication was a watch specifically designed for wealthy business people in the early parts of the 20th century. It was a pocket watch that had 24 different features, which took up to three years to design and five years to manufacture.
This limited edition of Patek Philippe sold for $24 million in 2014 and held the record for the highest amount spent on a timepiece at that time. Aside from being cased in 18 karats worth of gold and having so many features, the exclusivity of this timepiece is the major factor that holds the value of this pocket watch to date.
Iconic Status
The story behind the creation of a particular watch or events, reasons, and experiences that surround a timepiece could categorize a watch as iconic. A good example is the Reverso collection from Jaeger LeCoultre, which was brought to life in 1931 to protect watches from being scratched or damaged during physical activities.
Various collections have come out of this brand, yet the Reverso collection seems to be the most popular one out of all of them, and multiple watches in this iconic line are very well known to hold their value.
Do Affordable Watches Hold Their Value?
As I mentioned earlier, the material used in designing a watch is a major yardstick for measuring if a timepiece would hold value or not. Every watch manufacturer wants to make a profit from the sale of their timepieces. That’s always the goal when trying to sell anything, right? And nobody would make use of very quality materials in designing a watch and sell them very cheaply because those materials cost a lot of money.
So, there are no cheap watches that hold value, in my opinion. But when it comes to the world of watches and gauging from the cost of a lot of other timepieces, there are affordable watches that hold their value. I will give you a list of some of these watches and their specifications below.
The Best Affordable Watches That Won’t Lose Their Value
1. Timex Marlin Hand-Wound (ref. TW2T18200)
Timex announced the launch of this hand-wound watch back in 2017, and it instantly became a hit due to the quality of materials used in the design and how cheap it was. This timepiece has a case size of 34mm with a thickness of 10mm. It has a lug width of 18mm with a water resistance of up to 30m.
The most attractive features of this watch are its excellent dress watch proportions, along with the hand-wound Seagull movement powering it. This leather strapped hand-wound watch is perfectly styled to carry that vintage look and only costs $200.
2. Omega x Swatch Moonswatch (ref. SO33G100)
This unique collaboration between Omega and Swatch came out in 2022 and took the watch world by storm. Its bioceramic case has a 41.9mm diameter and is built with two-thirds pure ceramic, and the other one-third is from a material obtained from castor oil.
This watch has the look of the Omega Speedmaster and can easily play the same role if you don’t have up to $6,000 to spend on a Speedy. The short lug-to-lug distance of 47.9mm makes it wear very well on most wrists. It does have a few shortcomings, including an acrylic crystal, but for $260, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a watch with a more iconic design.
3. Seiko SKX007 (ref. 7S26-0020)
This timepiece carries the look and price to make it the go-to piece for many watch lovers. Like most Seiko watches, it has a very masculine design with a 42mm in width, 13mm in height, and a 46mm lug to lug. The outstanding feature of this watch lies in its overall function.
It was manufactured to satisfy the ISO 6425 dive standard, which includes temperature cycling from -20c to 60c, getting hit by a hammer weighing up to 3kg, and a meter drop test, all done while maintaining its accurate time.
This watch has a Seiko 7S26 movement which is the company’s cheapest movement and goes to show that designing a quality watch doesn’t always have to come with the most expensive materials.
The designs on the minute, second, and hour hands add more to the aesthetic look of this watch. Seiko discontinued the SKX collection in 2019, and prices have increased steadily for a piece in good condition. If you can find one close to its original retail price of approximately $200, go for it, as it’s unlikely to drop any time soon.
4. Seiko Alpinist (ref. SARB017)
I set my eyes on this timepiece in 2022, and the attention to detail on the green dial really stood out to me. It has very bold numerals on the dial with cathedral minute, hour, and second hands. This Japanese watch is powered by a 6R15 movement that is very reliable and shock resistant with a water resistance of up to 200 meters.
It also has a sapphire crystal which makes it very difficult to get scratched. This watch has a diameter of 39mm and a thickness of 12mm which makes it very easy to wear. This Alpinist watch is well-respected by many collectors because of the good features it has and still falls under the category of quality watches that you can buy for less than $1000.
The minimalist design and the overall look of this watch made me purchase this watch a couple of months ago. The dimensions of this timepiece include a 38mm diameter, a case height of 9.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 40mm.
Junghans are known for their minimalist features, but the addition of sapphire crystals has added a little bit of sophistication to the watch. As simple as this timepiece looks, it is controlled by an automatic movement inside, the calibre J800.1. This watch currently sells for approximately $1,200.
6. Sinn 556 I (ref. 556.010)
The components of this watch make it a relatively affordable one, even in the range of $1000-$1500. From being hand-assembled in Germany and also having a Sellita SW200-1 movement, I consider this a very good buy. Aside from being an easily repairable watch due to its movement, Sinn watches are also known for their resistance to shock and cold.
The timepiece has a sapphire crystal on the front and back and has a water resistance of up to 200 meters. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 45.5mm, a thickness of 11.2mm, and a lug width of 20mm. The dial of this watch has white text and a deep black background which matches the middle parts of the second, minute, and hour hands, giving them a floating look.
Like most Omega Speedmasters, the Reduced has a very legible dial with a black background and white minute, hour, and second hands. The dial of the Speedmaster Reduced houses 3 sub-dials that serve chronograph functions for a 30-minute counter, a 12-hour counter, and small seconds.
This watch measures 39mm in diameter and has a lug width of 18mm. The steel watch is powered by the caliber 3220, which is a self-winding ETA-based movement fitted with a modular chronograph mechanism and also has a water resistance of up to 30 meters. This timepiece has a Hesalite crystal at the top of the watch, which adds to its thickness of 12.3mm. This watch currently sells within the range of $3,000 to $4,000.
8. Oris Pro Pilot X Calibre 400 (ref. 01 400 7778 7158-07 7 20 01TLC)
Pilot watches have a lot of features that make them appealing to a wide range of people. This timepiece was released in 2022 and comes in pink, blue, gray, and green colors. The watch is housed in a 39mm diameter and 12mm thick lightweight titanium case.
It features the in-house automatic Calibre 400, with 5 days’ worth of power and a water resistance of up to 100 meters. One feature that differentiates this pilot from some other ones is the see-through case back which allows you to see the artistic inner workings of the timepiece.
The serpentine-style three-link bracelet also adds to its look and makes a firm grip around the wrist. The watch has a simple dial with minute, hour, and second hands and also a date indicator at the bottom part of the watch. This timepiece is currently worth $4,300.
One of the standout features of the Tudor Pelagos 39 is its dimensions, including a diameter of 39mm, a case thickness of 11.8mm, and a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm. This dive watch is powered by an in-house COSC-certified movement, the MT5400, and has a power reserve of up to 70 hours. The watch has a casing and bracelet made with grade 2 titanium and has a water resistance of 200 meters.
The Tudor Pelagos has a black dial with white second, minute, and hour hands and also white and red texts within the dial which all light up in the dark. The complementary rubber strap that comes with this watch allows for a longer-lasting relationship with this watch, as interchanging them will prevent the watch from getting scratched. This watch is currently sold for $4,600.
10. Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space (ref. 311.32.40.30.01.001)
This is one of the most popular Omega watches, and as the name implies, it’s an edition of the first Omega watch in space which is the Speedmaster 2998. An alpha-style hand is used for the hour and minute hand, while baton hands were used for the 12-hour and 30-minute sub-dial.
This watch is powered by the Omega caliber 1861 hand-winding movement and also has a power reserve of up to 40 hours. This stainless steel timepiece has the date of October 1962 engraved on its back, which marks the Sigma 7th space mission. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 47mm and a thickness of 14mm. The cost of this watch ranges between $5,000 to $6,000.
This model of the Black Bay has a 41mm case from side to side, just like the other ones. It has a lug-to-lug distance of 49.6mm and features an ETA 2824 movement with 38 hours of power reserve.
This watch has a very classic dial, just like the ones found in old-school Rolexes, and even includes the original Tudor rose logo. The casing and bracelet of the stainless steel watch are well polished all around and have the inscription of Tudor at the bottom and in between the clasps. This timepiece costs between $5,000 to $6,000.
12. Rolex Turn-O-Graph Thunderbird (ref. 16264)
This is one of the later models of the Rolex Thunderbird, which was created for air force pilots back in the day. The watch is available in solid gold and stainless steel types. This timepiece is a late-80s, early-90s watch, so it doesn’t come with the fanciest features. It has a bi-directional bezel at the top, which moves freely without the usual clicks.
This watch comes in different dial colors with bold indices and a tiny Roman numeral inscription at the top of the indices. It is a 36mm cased watch with a thickness of 11.5mm and a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm. You can find ones in good condition for around $7,000 to $8,000.
Conclusion
From my experience as a watch enthusiast, the affordability of a watch varies from person to person. A particular timepiece could have all the characteristics of a watch that holds value and sell at a price lesser than it is valued at. Despite that, a lot of people would still categorize such a watch as expensive.
However, it can be seen from the list above that there are quality watches of different ranges that hold their value, and these watches could be enjoyed by people looking to sell them in the nearest future for the same or a higher cost, and people just looking to enjoy the feeling of a quality watch.
