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best IWC pilot watches for the aviation enthusiasts

IWC Schaffhausen, also known as International Watch Company, is a Swiss luxury watch brand that has been a present force in the industry since 1868. With over 150 years of history, the brand has established itself as a leader in the watch industry, known for its precision engineering and timeless designs. In this blog post, we’ll take a closer look at the history of IWC watches, specifically IWC Pilot watches.

Founding of IWC

IWC was founded by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, who saw an opportunity to combine skilled Swiss craftsmanship with modern American technology. In 1868, he established the International Watch Company in Schaffhausen, Switzerland.

Jones’ goal was to create high-quality watches that could compete with the best Swiss brands, using the latest technology and machinery from the United States for the American market. He was also one of the first watchmakers to use the newly developed system of interchangeable parts, which made it easier and more efficient to produce watches.

Early Years

In the early years, IWC produced pocket watches for both men and women. These watches were known for their precision and accuracy and quickly gained a reputation for quality. In 1899, IWC introduced one of its first known wristwatches utilizing the small 64 caliber ladies’ pocket watch movement fitted with lugs, a watch which was designed specifically for women.

The watch was a commercial success and marked the beginning of IWC’s focus on wristwatches. In the late-19th and into the early-20th century, IWC continued to innovate with the introduction of the first watch with a digital display in 1885 (Pallweber system) and the Reference IW436 launched in 1936 for specific use by pilots with an oversized crown and rotating bezel aiding navigation.

History of IWC Pilot Watches 

With the introduction of the “Special Pilot’s Watch” (ref IW436) in 1936, IWC’s trajectory in supplying watches to pilots was set in stone. Indeed, IWC’s history is closely intertwined with the history of aviation. In these early days of aviation, pilots needed watches that were accurate, reliable, robust, and easy to read. 

IWC was one of the first watchmakers to recognize the need for such watches, and the high legibility and tech within the IW436 illustrate this well with its antimagnetic escapement (important due to the equipment within the cockpit) and large hands and numerals.

This was shortly followed by the “Big Pilot” in 1940 supplied to the German Air Force, a 55mm diameter goliath utilizing the pocket watch caliber 52 T.S.C. The Big Pilot would go on to influence the design language of German-style pilot watches in the following years, with its characteristic military triangle at 12 o’clock, sans serif numerals, and leaf-shaped hands present even in modern-day designs.

In 1948, we saw the arrival of the Pilot’s Watch Mark XI, powered by the (legendary) manually wound 89 caliber movement, a watch infamous for its use by the British Military. A soft-iron inner case is applied, further advancing IWC’s penchant for reliable tech into the mid-twentieth century. Built to British Ministry of Defense specifications, vintage examples are highly coveted today.

The Mark XI was produced as late as 1984, yet after a hiatus, it wasn’t until 1993 that the next Mark series watch, XII, was released as a near replica of its predecessor but with a self-winding automatic movement.  In 1999, the Mark XV was released at a larger size of 38mm and is widely considered the transition from a military watch to civilian use.

Now into the 2000s, the Mark XVI (2006-2012), XVII (2012-2016), and XVIII (2017-2022) are all released with various sizes and stylistic changes – yet all staying true to the heritage and inspiration of the classic Mark line as far back as the Special Pilot’s Watch.

IWC Pilot Watches Today

The IWC Pilot Watches of today can be broken into three distinct sub-collections: Classic (Big Pilot, Pilot, and Mark series), Performance Materials (Big Pilot and Pilot watches made with advanced materials), and Antoine De Saint Exupery (Big Pilot and Pilot special edition watches commemorating the famous author/pilot). Let’s explore further.

The Best IWC Pilot Watches

1. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

 IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

When IWC quietly updated its brand icon in the Mark series in the late summer of 2022, a few notable changes were made from the prior Mark XIII (just don’t ask us what happened to the Mark XIX). 

Notably, the watch was trimmed down in both lug-to-lug length and thickness (40mm Diameter, 10.8mm thickness, 49.2mm lug-to-lug), the dial was rebalanced with a tweaked hour and minute markings along the outer track, a white date disc was added to aid in legibility (and repositioned, most popularly), but perhaps most impressively, the Mark XX is now powered by the caliber 32111 ValFleurier movement, increasing power reserve from the base 42 hours on the Mark XVIII to a dramatic 120 hours (5-day) in the Mark XX.

Retail Price: $5,250

2. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 46 (ref. IW501001)

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 46 (ref. IW501001)

They don’t call it the “Big Pilot” for no reason. Clocking in at 46.2mm in diameter, 15.5mm in thickness, and 57mm lug-to-lug, IWC’s classic Big Pilot of the 1940s is revived again in a technically smaller size than the original (originally 55mm in diameter and 17.5mm thick).

In aesthetic design, the modern Big Pilot is quite faithful to the original, with its iconic flared onion-shaped crown and altogether Germanic Pilot’s watch dial design (and power reserve sub-dial indicator at 3 o’clock). 

A robust and smooth leather strap is attached at both sides, with the eye-catching rivets echoing the original design. Powering the watch is the in-house caliber 52110, providing an automatic self-winding 7 days of power reserve. Though large in overall size, it’s hard to think of another definitive flieger-style watch with the historic chops and design to boot. 

Retail Price: $13,200

3. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (ref. IW326801)

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic Spitfire (ref. IW326801)

IWC’s 39mm Automatic Spitfire is a bit of a value proposition within the brand’s Pilot watch lineup. Measuring in at 39mm in diameter, 10.8mm in thickness, and about 50mm lug-to-lug, it’s also a modestly-sized watch suitable and comfortable for most wrists.

Powered by the in-house automatic movement, caliber 32110, the Spitfire also receives a 72-hour power reserve (with a silicon escape wheel and lever for increased anti-magnetism). 

Aside from the technical specs, visually, the Spitfire features designs that call back to IWC’s military heritage, with faux-patina colored markers along the outer track at 12, 3, 6, and 9 (as well as the Flieger style triangle and dots up top), and broadsword-styled alpha hands, encased in a stainless steel brushed case. 

Retail Price: $4,900

4. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW327010)

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW327010)

Continuing along the line of Mark series watches, the Mark XVIII utilizes a soft iron dial and inner case for increased magnetic resistance, much like its predecessors. Sizing is not far off either, at 40mm in diameter, 11mm in thickness, and 51.1mm lug-to-lug.

However, where the reference IW327010 really shines is in its sunray brushed blue dial against white text and dial markings, a striking look paying homage to the eponymous book (Le Petit Prince, in case you missed it). 

The case back also features an illustrated engraving in the same vein, and the “spitfire” style alpha hands offer striking visibility against the dial. Paired with the ever-solid Santoni-produced calfskin leather strap, the watch is an overall handsome look for pilots and non-pilots alike.

Retail Price: $4,500

5. IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium® (ref. IW371815)

IWC Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium® (ref. IW371815)

As a leader in advancing innovative materials into standard watch production, along with a history of producing pilot watch chronographs, IWC’s forward-thinking Double Chronograph “Top Gun” Ceratanium watch continues that trend. 

The brand, the first to introduce a ceramic case back on a wristwatch in 1986, and having developed the reference 3711 DoppelChronograph (an industrialized split-seconds chronograph, traditionally a delicate and high-end complication), brings both ideas into the modern day with a new material, ceratanium, which combines ceramic and titanium to provide the advantages of both.

Corrosion and scratch resistance, lightweight and durable, in an all-black case, the Top Gun Ceratanium represents IWC’s strengths at its finest.

Retail Price: $16,100

6. IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 (ref. IW324008)

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 (ref. IW324008)

For a pilot’s watch, visibility and legibility are of primary importance. For this reason, the genre is typically occupied by larger watches; look no further than the 46mm Big Pilot within IWC’s own lineup, and you’ll catch my drift. But what of options for the smaller wristed or those who simply prefer a smaller, more compact wearing watch? Enter the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 (reference IW324008). 

Measuring 36mm in diameter, 10.6mm thick, and 46mm lug-to-lug, the Automatic 36 wears like a mid-size dream without the loss of that iconic styling present on its larger Mark series brothers. As the market continues its downward size trend in recent years, the Automatic 36 will continue to provide a smaller “safe haven”.

Retail Price: $4,350

7. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire (ref. IW329701)

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Spitfire (ref. IW329701)

Despite the polarizing “downsizing” of the Big Pilot from 46mm to 43mm diameter (14.4mm thickness, 52mm lug-to-lug), make no mistake that the 43 Spitfire is still a larger wearing experience relative to its modestly sized Mark series brethren.

In line with a reduced size, the 43 Spitfire is encased in a lightweight Grade 5 titanium, matte gray in appearance, achieved through polishing and sandblasting. 

The dial provides enhanced legibility with the minutes and seconds track in white on the outer ring, with an inside ring in gray containing the hour markings, 1 through 12. Powered by the in-house caliber 82100, the 60-hour power reserve movement is additionally reinforced with ceramic components, and the watch is further protected with a soft-iron case (for anti-magnetism).

The 43 Spitfire is a perfect option for collectors looking for a more wearable Big Pilot experience with traditional styling.

Retail Price: $9,500

8. IWC Pilot’s Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW377717)

 IWC Pilot’s Chronograph “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW377717)

As the chronograph representative within the “Le Petit Prince” line, the reference IW377717 is a bold watch at 43mm in diameter, 15mm in thickness, and 53.5mm lug-to-lug. 

Made of entirely stainless steel and set on a five-link bracelet, the use of sunray blue is particularly showcased and accented by the three contrasting blue subdials of the chronograph registers (60-second, 30-minute, and 12-hour counters), balanced against the sharp white markers, Arabic numerals, and Spitfire alpha styled hands. The in-house caliber 79320 also provides day-and-date functionality, along with an estimated 44 hours of power reserve.

Retail Price: $6,850

9. IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph (ref. IW395001)

 IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Chronograph (ref. IW395001)

The IWC Timezoner Chronograph packs a punch, not only in sizing (46mm diameter, 17mm thickness, 55mm lug-to-lug) and visual weight (all of the complications and features!) but in functionality as well. 

First, we should mention it’s a chronograph, with sub-counters at 6 and 12 o’clock providing running seconds and hours, respectively. Secondly, it’s a flyback chronograph, meaning the chronograph can be quickly reset by actuating the pusher at 4 o’clock, which is useful for pilots in timing exercises. 

And finally (and perhaps most impressively), the Timezoner offers a timezone complication (did the name give it away?), operated by pushing the bezel down and rotating to the desired timezone, in effect setting the time zone with the date and 24-hour hand without needing to actuate the crown and jumping hour hand as with common “flyer” GMTs.

Retail Price: $12,300

10. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 “Mr Porter” (ref. IW329703)

 IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 “Mr Porter” (ref. IW329703)

For the uninitiated, Mr. Porter is a luxury fashion online outlet retailing hundreds of top designer brands in menswear. Owned by the same Richemont group as IWC, it makes sense that the two should collaborate on several watches, of which the Big Pilot 43 (reference IW329703) is part. 

Measuring the typical Big Pilot 43 sizing (43mm diameter, 14.4mm thickness, 52mm lug-to-lug), Mr. Porter’s take on the watch is a bit more modern leaning in aesthetic than the 43 Spitfire Bronze, for example, despite utilizing a similar bronze case.

Uniquely, the watch features contrasting gold hands and beige markers against a matte black dial (with the “1” Arabic numeral set with luminous material commemorating the first in a series of collaborations between the two brands). 

A titanium case back encloses the in-house caliber 82100 with 60 hours of power reserve with the usual soft-iron cage for anti-magnetism and an impressive 100m of water resistance overall.

Retail Price: $10,900

11. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “Lake Tahoe” (ref. IW389105)

An all-white, modern, and punchy ceramic Pilot Chronograph from IWC? Sign me up! When the “Lake Tahoe” reference IW389105 first debuted at Watches & Wonders 2022, it quickly became a favorite by watch media, industry, and IWC fans alike. It’s not hard to see why.

The all-white ceramic case with white markers and dial printing, coupled with a white rubber strap, is an immediately fun and stylistic look that’s sure to brighten your day (literally). 

Named after the snow-filled mountains surrounding Lake Tahoe, visible by Top Gun fighter jet pilots circling nearby base Reno, Nevada, the Lake Tahoe watch is otherwise a robust IWC Pilot’s Chronograph, powered by the caliber 69380 featuring a 12-hour chronograph, day-date complication and time display with a 46-hour power reserve. On the caseback, the Top Gun US Navy Fighter Weapons school logo is emblazoned; it just doesn’t get cooler than that.

Retail Price: $11,700

12. IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW395503)

IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW395503)

With the signature sunray blue of the “Le Petit Prince” series of Pilot Watches, the Timezoner (reference IW395503) is handsome not only in its use of color but overall design and functionality execution. Getting the hard specs out of the way, it measures 46mm in diameter, 15mm in thickness, and 55mm lug-to-lug.

But take one look at the Timezoner, and you’ll likely not recall a more striking yet balanced design with a timezone function. We mentioned a Timezoner earlier in the reference IW395001. The cleverness of the function is replicated here. Simply press down and rotate the bezel to actuate a change in a timezone on the watch (locales listed along the bezel).

Release and the hour hand for local time will be set to the correct time. No need to jump the hour hand via the crown; it’s entirely effortless. And whereas the Timezoner Chronograph added visual complexity overall, stripped down of all that, the Timezoner IW395503 is pure beauty in simplification.

Retail Price: $14,200

13. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire (ref. IW387902)

 IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire (ref. IW387902)

Debuting at the former SIHH trade show in 2019, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire in bronze (reference IW387902) is, at its core, a well-proportioned, vintage-cued, practical bronze-cased chronograph with an upgraded in-house movement.

With IWC’s historical penchant for no-nonsense tool watches, the use of bronze in the Chronograph Spitfire is a stylistic turn, which will provide a user-specific patina over time (caseback in Titanium for safety and health reasons). 

At 41mm in diameter, 15.3mm thick, and 51.5mm lug-to-lug, the watch wears more compact than its larger brothers (for example, the 43mm IW377709 Pilot’s Watch Chronograph). The smaller case also helps balance out the dial with its various subdials tightened up, given the smaller surface area. 

The olive green dial itself is a handsome look not often found on watch dial furniture but paired perfectly with the bronze against the gold-plated Spitfire-style hands. In sum, the IW387902 is a great option for those looking for a moderately sized IWC Pilot Chronograph with the potential for a unique patina over time.

Retail Price: $8,000

14. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “Woodland” (ref. IW389106)

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun “Woodland” (ref. IW389106)

As a “Woodland Green” variation to the all-white “Lake Tahoe” Pilot’s Watch Chronograph earlier on our list, the Woodland (reference IW389106) features the same specs and dimensions as the aforementioned model (44.5mm diameter, 15mm thickness, 54mm lug-to-lug), but with a dark green ceramic case and dial.

Both debuting at Watches and Wonders 2022, the Woodland is perhaps a soberer, yet still very much modern, take on the colored ceramic case theme. 

Taking inspiration from the flight suits of the naval aviators of the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School (better known as “Top Gun”), the deep green case is contrasted with the light green hue of the dial markers and hands, along with a matching green rubber strap (textile inlay) for an altogether militaristic look.

Retail Price: $11,700

15. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503605)

 IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar (ref. IW503605)

As the flagship IWC model, the Big Pilot was paired with a perpetual calendar compilation for the first time in 2006, showcasing the high-complication production capabilities of the brand. Many variations have been produced since that initial limited edition run.

However, in 2021, IWC re-introduced a Big Pilot Watch Perpetual Calendar in steel as part of the permanent collection. The striking sunray blue dialed reference IW503605 is a large watch, much in the same vein as the original Big Pilot, which historically utilized a pocket watch movement.

The new Perpetual Calendar measures 46mm in diameter, 15.8mm thick, and 58.8mm lug-to-lug, but again places legibility and visibility at the forefront despite the added complication and subdials, and does so handsomely. All functions are accessed via the oversized onion-shaped crown: moon phase, month, date, day, and year. 

Retail Price: $33,000

16. IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 “Mercedes AMG-Petronas Formula One Team” (ref. IW388108)

The first official team watch developed between Mercedes-AMG Petronas and IWC, the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 (reference IW388108) is special in that it was produced not only as part of the ongoing IWC x AMG collaboration (many Formula One-inspired watches have been produced so far), but that it was also made to be worn by staff as well: race engineers, mechanics, and star pilots alike. 

The watch packs an immediate punch visually, owing to the application of Petronas Green (the signature color for the F1 team) for all dial printing and furniture set starkly against a matte black dial.

Size-wise, the IW388108 retains the familiar case size of the standard Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41, at 41mm in diameter, 14.6mm in thickness, and 51.5mm lug-to-lug. Beneath the sapphire exhibition case back, the in-house caliber 69385 provides column wheel chronograph functionality and 46 hours of power reserve.

Retail Price: $8,350

17. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar (ref. IW502706)

IWC Big Pilot's Watch Annual Calendar (ref. IW502706)

Often placing high-end complications within the heritage-driven Big Pilot line, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Annual Calendar (reference IW502706) is no exception to the rule, extending a sense of high-end luxury further with its 18k rose gold case construction.

What is an Annual Calendar? Annual Calendar complications showcase the day, date, and month. However, they are different from Perpetual Calendar complications in that they require manual winding and date adjustment at the end of each February. 

Because of this, the Annual Calendar complication is oftentimes preferred by collectors who enjoy a closer relationship with their watch through manual operation. The watch is as large as the Big Pilot moniker intended: 46.2mm in diameter and 15.3mm thick.

In dial design, the 9 o’clock subdial provides running seconds, opposite the 3 o’clock subdial notating power reserve (approximately 168 hours, or seven days total), with the calendar set just under the 12 o’clock, presenting month, date, and day accordingly.

Retail Price: $32,400

18. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun “Mojave Desert” (ref. IW503004)

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun “Mojave Desert” (ref. IW503004)

Retaining the same case proportions and functionality of the standard Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar, reference IW503605, the Top Gun “Mojave Desert” edition (reference IW503004) comes in a familiarly large case measuring 46.5mm in diameter, 15.4mm thick, and 58.8mm lug-to-lug.

Where the Mojave Desert differs, however, is in aesthetic and case material. Encased entirely in a sand-colored ceramic material, the watch coloration and aesthetic were inspired by the Mojave Desert, in particular, that of the Naval Air Weapons Station China Lake land area owned by the US Navy.

All dial printing and furniture are set with that same sand coloration, contrasted with a matte brown dial to increase legibility. The Mojave Desert is a welcome addition to the Perpetual Calendar range as a unique color variant for complication, which is often more conservative in design approach.

Retail Price: $40,900

19. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL (ref. IW357201)

How can one describe the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL (reference IW357201), a watch so experimental and “out there” in both concept and design? A bit Star Trek and concept car in personality, the true hero of the Absorber XPL is its resistance to extreme shock: 30,000G’s, to be exact. 

The 44mm diameter Ceratanium case (combining the durability of ceramic and the light weight of titanium into a new compound) is 12mm thick, a thickness that belies the advanced technology contained within. 

Suspended inside the case is the movement, held by a bulk metallic glass spring, providing increased elasticity than typical metals such as steel. Talk about shock absorption…The Absorber XPL was limited to 10 pieces a year beginning in 2021, with 30 pieces total planned.

Retail Price: $86,100

20. IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW504803)

IWC Big Pilot's Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon “Le Petit Prince” (ref. IW504803)

Taking the Le Petit Prince line of watches to the highest tier (and perhaps the most romantic representation of the book itself) is the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince (reference IW504803). Measuring 46.2mm in diameter and 16mm thick, the Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon is encased in 18K Armor Gold (a new alloy developed by IWC to be harder than regular 18K rose gold). 

Perpetual Calendar functionality is presented via subdials at 3 (date and power reserve), 6 (month and moon phase), and 9 o’clock (date; the year window is placed just underneath 8 o’clock), but most impressively sits the mesmerizing tourbillon at 12 o’clock with its constant rotation of the balance wheel, balance spring, and escapement to negate the effects of Earth’s gravity in any position. 

The tourbillon is certainly a high-end complication, and prices for such watches are typically in the six figures. The IW504803 in question is no exception, with a retail price of $120,000.

Retail Price: $120,000

Conclusion

Over the past 150 years, IWC has established itself as a leader in the watch industry, known for its precision engineering and timeless design. From its early years of producing pocket watches to its modern-day sports watches and complications, IWC has consistently innovated and pushed the boundaries of what is possible in watchmaking. 

With a rich history and a commitment to quality, IWC watches are a true investment in both style and function. No matter which watch you choose from their Pilot range, should you choose one, take pride and comfort in your decision knowing this.

Automatic vs chronograph watches

Wristwatches are more than just functional timekeeping devices; they are also symbols of personal style, luxury, and craftsmanship. Among the various types of watches available, two prominent categories stand out for the modern collector, enthusiast, and all prospective buyers: automatic and chronograph watches. Each of these categories has a unique history, design, and functionality, which intersect and overlap in many ways. 

In this article, we’ll delve into the world of automatic and chronograph watches, exploring their origins, how they operate, and this fascinating overlap between the two in the form of automatic chronograph watches. Buckle up, and let’s dive in!

About Automatic Watches 

The roots of automatic watches can be traced back to the late 18th century when Abraham-Louis Perrelet, a Swiss watchmaker, invented the self-winding movement. His invention laid the foundation for automatic watches, which are often referred to as “self-winding”, “mechanical”, or “mechanized” watches.

The key innovation behind automatic watches is their ability to wind themselves through the natural motion of the wearer’s wrist. This ingenious mechanism eliminated the need for manual winding, the default function of watchmaking of the day, making automatic watches a practical choice for those who appreciate the beauty of traditional watchmaking without the need for frequent manual intervention by the user.

How Automatic Watches Operate

Automatic watches function through a complex system of gears, springs, and rotors. Here’s a simplified explanation of how they work:

  • Rotor Movement: Inside an automatic watch, there’s a small semi-circular weight called the rotor. As the wearer moves their wrist, the rotor pivots on its axis.
  • Energy Transfer: The motion of the rotor winds the mainspring, which is the coiled spring responsible for storing energy.
  • Power Reserve: The mainspring stores the energy generated by the rotor’s movement. This energy is used to power the watch and keep it ticking.
  • Regulation: The watch’s movement is regulated by an escapement mechanism, which controls the release of energy from the mainspring at a consistent rate.
  • Timekeeping: The regulated release of energy drives the hands of the watch, allowing it to keep accurate time.

Automatic watches are known for their smooth, sweeping second hands, which move continuously rather than ticking in one-second intervals, commonly found in quartz watchmaking technology. This feature adds to the elegance and charm of automatic watches with its reliance on mechanical energy alone, without the intervention of batteries and electronic-based tech.

About Chronograph Watches 

Chronograph watches have a rich history dating back to the early 19th century. The word “chronograph” itself is derived from the Greek words “chronos” (time) and “grapho” (to write). These watches were initially designed for specialized applications such as measuring astronomical events and conducting scientific experiments.

One of the most notable figures in the development of the chronograph watch is Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec, a French watchmaker who invented the first practical chronograph in 1821. Rieussec’s design involved an ink-tipped stylus that marked elapsed time on a rotating dial as it moved across it.

How Chronograph Watches Operate

Chronograph watches are renowned for their ability to measure elapsed time with precision. Here’s how they operate:

  • Chronograph Movement: A chronograph watch features an additional set of sub-dials and pusher buttons on the case. These components are used to activate and control the chronograph function.
  • Start, Stop, and Reset: To measure elapsed time, you start the chronograph by pressing a designated pusher. The central second hand begins to move. To stop timing, you press the same pusher again, and to reset, you use a separate pusher.
  • Sub-Dials: The sub-dials on the watch face display elapsed time in various increments, such as seconds, minutes, and hours.
  • Return to Zero: After recording elapsed time, the chronograph hand can be reset to its original position, ready for the next measurement.

As mentioned, chronograph watches are often associated with precision timing and are favored by athletes, pilots, and professionals who require accurate timekeeping for various activities in sports and applications where accuracy is of the utmost importance and a literal split second counts.

Automatic vs Chronograph Watches: Which Is Best For You?: 

With some history and definitions under our belt, it’s now time to ask: Which is the best watch for you? Ultimately, the choice between an automatic and a chronograph watch boils down to your personal preferences and needs.

Choose an Automatic Watch If:

  • You appreciate the variety of styles and aesthetics within the automatic watch category. From everyday three-handed sports watches to dive or GMT watches with functional bezels, there’s likely an automatic watch to fit your needs.
  • You prefer a timepiece that doesn’t require frequent adjustments or battery replacements.
  • You’re a watch collector with multiple watches in rotation and value the ability to grab and go without the need to wind your watch daily.

Choose a Chronograph Watch If:

  • You require precise timing for activities like sports, racing, or aviation.
  • You want a versatile watch that can function as a stopwatch when needed.
  • You prefer a sportier and more rugged design. Many chronographs are larger in size and robust for larger wrists.
  • You value practical features that enhance your everyday life.

Whether you opt for an automatic watch or a chronograph watch, remember that the perfect timepiece is one that suits your lifestyle, complements your style, and aligns with your priorities. Both types offer their unique charm, and the right choice is the one that resonates with you the most. So, take your time, explore your options, and select the watch that will not only tell time but also tell your story.

What About Automatic Chronograph Watches? 

All that said, if you still can’t decide between the two and wonder if it’s possible to have the best of both worlds (ie: an automatic chronograph), have no fear. While automatic and chronograph watches are distinct categories, there is an intriguing overlap in the world of watchmaking – the automatic chronograph watch. 

These timepieces combine the self-winding mechanism of automatic watches with the stopwatch functionality of chronograph watches. The result is a versatile and stylish watch that caters to both horological enthusiasts and those who value precise timing.

Features of Automatic Chronograph Watches

  • Automatic Movement: Like traditional automatic watches, automatic chronograph watches use the wearer’s wrist motion to wind the mainspring and provide power to the watch.
  • Chronograph Functionality: In addition to telling the time, automatic chronograph watches offer the ability to measure elapsed time with the push of a button.
  • Elegance and Style: Automatic chronograph watches often boast exquisite designs, making them suitable for both formal and casual occasions.
  • Smooth Second Hand: These watches typically feature the characteristic smooth, sweeping second hand associated with automatic movements.
  • Complications: Some automatic chronograph watches may include additional complications, such as date displays or moon phase indicators, enhancing their functionality and aesthetics.

Popular automatic chronograph movements include the Valjoux 7750 and the ETA 2894, both known for their reliability and accuracy. These movements are widely used by renowned watchmakers to create exceptional timepieces.

Notable Automatic Watches 

In the market, there are a number of directions one could go when looking for an automatic watch. Indeed, a majority of mechanical watches in the market today will likely be automatic, given the practicality and standardization of automatic movements overall. 

Everything from your basic three-hand watches with dressier leanings to more rugged sports-type watches like divers and GMTs, there’s plenty to choose from. The following are three notable pieces to look into that range the gamut.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPD37

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPD37

The Seiko SRPD37 is a sleek and stylish dressy timepiece that combines classic design with modern functionality as part of Seiko’s Presage line. Its stainless steel case and calf-skin leather band give it a premium feel, while the “Cocktail Time” olive and black sunray dial with date window add a touch of sophistication.

The watch features Seiko’s reliable 4R35 automatic movement, ensuring accurate timekeeping without the need for a battery. The dauphine hands and diamond-shaped indices make it easy to read the time in various lighting conditions, and the Hardlex crystal protects the dial from scratches.

With a water resistance of 50 meters, the SRPD37 is suitable for everyday wear and can handle light water activities. Its 40.5mm case size (11.8mm thick, 47.5mm lug-to-lug) strikes a balance between elegance and versatility, making it suitable for both formal occasions and casual wear when paired with different strap combinations.

Overall, the Seiko SRPD37 is a fantastic choice for those seeking a well-built, stylish, and dependable dress adjacent automatic watch at an affordable price point.

Retail Price: $425.00

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (ref. 01 754 7741 4065-07 8 20 22)

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (ref. 01 754 7741 4065-07 8 20 22)

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date (reference 01 754 7741 4065-07 8 20 22) is a timepiece that seamlessly blends vintage charm with modern craftsmanship. Its 40mm stainless steel case exudes a robust yet refined aesthetic, while the oversized crown pays homage to Oris’ aviation heritage.

The standout feature of this watch is its iconic pointer date complication, which adds a unique touch to the classic dial design with a striking pointer date hand tracking the date along the outside edge of the dial. 

The cathedral-style hands and track markers create a striking and sophisticated look, accented by the hour numerals marking 1 through 12 o’clock. The automatic movement inside (Oris 7544, base Sellita SW 200-1) ensures precise timekeeping with a 38-hour power reserve.

With a water resistance of 50 meters, it’s suitable for daily wear but not recommended for extensive water activities. The watch can be purchased on a steel bracelet or leather strap, with both options complementing the overall design, providing comfort and style.

In summary, the Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is a timeless and elegant watch that captures the spirit of aviation history while offering modern reliability and style. It’s a true classic in the world of horology.

Retail Price: $2,150.00

Tudor Black Bay 41mm (ref. M7941A1A0RU-0001)

Perhaps no other brand epitomizes the success of vintage design in the past decade than the Black Bay line of watches from Tudor. Particularly, the Tudor Black Bay 41mm (ref. M7941A1A0RU-0001) is a prime example of the brand’s dedication to blending heritage design with modern functionality. 

Its 41mm stainless steel case (13.6mm height, 50.1mm lug-to-lug) exudes rugged elegance, and the bold black dial with gold-tone accents exudes a timeless appeal in the all-familiar dive watch template from the house of Rolex (and Tudor by extension).

The watch boasts the reliability of the Kenissi MT5602-U automatic movement, ensuring precise timekeeping in daily use. Its signature snowflake hands and luminescent markers pay homage to Tudor’s iconic design elements and dive watch tradition (calling back to the Tudor Submariners of yore). 

Its 200-meter water resistance makes it suitable for various activities, from daily wear to recreational swimming and diving, along with its now iconic burgundy dive bezel with its practical elapsed timing capability.

Newly available on a traditional oyster inspired bracelet, 5-link bracelet, or rubber strap. Overall, the Tudor Black Bay 41mm effortlessly balances vintage aesthetics with contemporary performance, making it a worthy choice for those seeking a versatile and stylish timepiece that’s built to last; A perfect daily driver.

Retail Price: Starting at $4,225.00

Notable Chronograph Watches

And while automatic watches can offer a wide variety of styling and aesthetics, chronograph watches are a bit more particular in their execution due to the form factor required. Still, there are chronograph watches available at varying price points for a new or seasoned buyer, and the following are a few notable choices should you choose to dip your hand into the category.

Seagull 1963 Chronograph

The Seagull 1963 Chronograph is a charming homage to mid-20th-century aviation timepieces utilized by the Chinese Air Force. While larger variants exist, of primary note is a more faithful smaller version, measuring in with a 38mm stainless steel case (47.3mm lug-to-lug, 13.22mm thick), acrylic crystal, and vintage-inspired design, it exudes a sense of nostalgia and authenticity.

The standout feature of this watch is its manual-wind mechanical movement, which not only harks back to a bygone era but also offers a unique connection to the art of watchmaking. The chronograph function, complete with two subdials and a central sweeping seconds hand, adds a touch of functionality to its retro charm.

The cream-colored dial, bold Arabic numerals, and blued steel hands create a legible and attractive face. Although it lacks modern conveniences like automatic winding or a date complication, the Seagull 1963 Chronograph excels in capturing the essence of classic watch design.

This watch is a true gem for vintage watch enthusiasts and offers an authentic experience at an affordable price.

Retail Price: $325.00

Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph (ref. L2.830.4.93.0)

The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph (ref. L2.830.4.93.0) is a stunning timepiece that effortlessly marries timeless elegance with modern precision in a striking tuxedo dial. Its 40mm stainless steel case (13.6mm thick, 49.2mm lug to lug) embodies a vintage aesthetic, while the meticulously crafted details on the dial and bezel pay homage to Longines’ rich heritage and storied ties to aviation history.

This watch boasts a sophisticated caliber L895 automatic movement (28800 vibrations per hour, 54 hours of power reserve) that ensures accurate timekeeping and a reliable chronograph function for precise time measurements.

The cream-colored dial, silvered polished hands, blue chronograph hands, and painted Arabic numerals add a touch of sophistication, while the tachymeter scale on the outer edge of the dial provides a nod to its historical roots. With a black leather strap, it exudes classic charm and comfort.

The Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph is a beautiful example of how tradition and innovation can come together in a harmonious and stylish timepiece, making it a remarkable choice for watch enthusiasts who appreciate both history and craftsmanship.

Retail Price: $3,425.00

Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002)

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch (ref. 310.30.42.50.01.002) is an iconic timepiece that has solidified its place in horological history. As the watch that accompanied NASA astronauts to the moon, it represents a pinnacle of precision and reliability.

Its 42mm stainless steel case (13.2mm thick, 47.5mm lug to lug) houses the legendary manual-wind Omega Caliber 3861 movement, renowned for its durability and accuracy (and now METAS-approved). The black dial features the iconic tri-compax subdials, luminous hour markers, and bold hands, ensuring superb legibility.

Overall, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch is not just a watch; it’s a symbol of human exploration and achievement. Its timeless design, historical significance, and exceptional craftsmanship make it a must-have for any watch aficionado or space enthusiast.

Retail Price: $8,000.00

Conclusion

In the world of horology, the choice between automatic and chronograph watches often comes down to personal preference and intended use. Automatic watches are enchanted with their intricate self-winding mechanisms and variety in style and execution, while chronograph watches excel in precision timekeeping and sports-related applications.

Ultimately, whether you opt for an automatic watch, a chronograph watch, or an automatic chronograph watch, your choice should reflect your individual style, interests, and the role you want your wristwatch to play in your daily life. Regardless of your preference, one thing remains certain: the world of watchmaking continues to evolve, offering a vast array of options to cater to every taste and need. Godspeed!

Best Digital Watches

In today’s fast-paced and technology-driven world, the concept of timekeeping has evolved exponentially. While traditional mechanical watches still hold a special place in the hearts of horology enthusiasts, digital watches have emerged as the epitome of modernity and convenience the world over. 

Combining cutting-edge technology with sleek design, digital watches offer a plethora of features that cater to both tech-savvy individuals and fashion-forward enthusiasts and perhaps even the most astute mechanical watch snobs. 

In this article, we will delve into the captivating world of digital watches, exploring their functionality and versatility. Plus, we’ll look at the enduring appeal that keeps them ticking amidst the age of the all-encompassing smartwatch and the traditional world of mechanical horology.

About Digital Watches

First, some history. In the midst of the technological whirlwind of the 1970s and 1980s, a small yet significant innovation emerged that would forever change the way we perceive timekeeping: the digital watch. 

These sleek, electronic timepieces symbolized progress, modernity, and a departure from the traditional mechanical watches that had dominated the horological landscape for centuries. With the combination of quartz and modern technology, this was truly a transformative era in timekeeping. 

The Birth of the Digital Watch: The 1970s

The 1970s was a time of rapid advancement in electronics, with integrated circuits and microprocessors paving the way for new possibilities in consumer products. It was during this period that the first digital watches made their debut, capturing the imagination of people around the world as a whole new way of timekeeping.

One of the earliest pioneers in this field was the Hamilton Watch Company, which introduced the groundbreaking “Pulsar Time Computer” in 1972. Marketed as the world’s first digital watch, the Pulsar featured a red LED display that illuminated the time when the button was pressed. This watch quickly became a status symbol, adorning the wrists of celebrities and tech enthusiasts alike.

As the decade progressed, other manufacturers jumped on the digital bandwagon, introducing more affordable models. Casio, a brand that would become a powerhouse in the digital watch industry, released its first digital watch, the Casiotron, in 1974. The Casiotron showcased a digital display and a host of innovative features, paving the way for future Casio digital watches that would dominate the market in years to come.

The Rise of Functional Style: The 1980s

The 1980s marked a turning point in the digital watch revolution. The technology became more refined, and digital watches evolved from being novelty items to essential accessories due to their increasingly affordable pricing and practicality. The distinctive futuristic look of digital timepieces became synonymous with the high-tech aesthetic of the era, and manufacturers capitalized on this trend.

Casio, with its innovative spirit, launched a series of iconic digital watch lines during the 1980s. The G-Shock, introduced in 1983, redefined ruggedness in wristwear. Its shock-resistant design and durability made it a favorite among athletes and outdoor enthusiasts, solidifying Casio’s position as a leader in the digital watch market, which lasts through the present day.

Meanwhile, Timex, another renowned watchmaker, introduced the Ironman Triathlon in 1986, targeting the fitness-minded consumer. With its stopwatch features, water resistance, and durable build, the Ironman became a staple for athletes and fitness enthusiasts worldwide.

A Continued Legacy

The impact of digital watches from the 1970s and 1980s cannot be overstated. These timepieces revolutionized the watch industry, transitioning timekeeping from a traditional mechanical process to a digital, electronic experience. 

They paved the way for the smartwatches and wearable technology we have today, demonstrating that wristwatches can be much more than mere timekeeping devices.

What To Look For in Digital Watches? 

With an understanding of digital watch history and how digital watchkeeping has developed in the years since its inception, we now ask what a buyer should look for when deciding which digital watch to buy. Whether casual wear or specialized activities are your use case, let’s explore a few factors.

Legibility

One of the primary advantages of digital watches is their transparent, easy-to-read displays. However, not all digital watch displays are created equal. When evaluating a digital watch for legibility, consider the following:

  • Display Type: Look for a watch with a high-contrast display, ideally backlit for nighttime readability. Some watches feature LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) screens, while others use OLED (Organic Light Emitting Diode) technology for even crisper visuals.
  • Size and Layout: Ensure the digits on the watch face are large enough to be easily seen at a glance. Pay attention to the layout of the digits, ensuring they’re well-organized and intuitively presented.

Battery Life

Another advantage of digital watches is their typically longer battery life compared to many analog counterparts and the reliability of battery power.  When selecting a digital watch, consider:

  • Battery Type: Most digital watches use replaceable coin cell batteries, which are affordable and widely available. However, some advanced digital watches may have rechargeable batteries, for example, solar-powered watches.
  • Battery Life: Check the manufacturer’s specifications for the estimated battery life. A watch with a longer battery life is ideal, especially if you plan to use additional features frequently.

Additional Features

Modern digital watches often come packed with a variety of features beyond basic timekeeping. Depending on your needs and preferences, here are some additional features to consider:

  • Water Resistance: If you’re an avid swimmer or enjoy water-based activities, look for a digital watch with a suitable water resistance rating. Some watches are water-resistant but not suitable for diving, so check the specifications.
  • Alarms and Reminders: Many digital watches include alarm functions, making them great for waking up or setting reminders throughout the day.
  • Stopwatch and Timer: These features are handy for athletes, fitness enthusiasts, or anyone who needs precise timing for various activities.
  • World Time and Time Zones: If you travel frequently, a digital watch with world time functionality can be a game-changer.
  • Smart Features: Some digital watches now come with smart features such as step tracking, heart rate monitoring, and smartphone connectivity. Assess whether these features align with your lifestyle and preferences.

Build Quality & Durability

A good digital watch should be able to withstand everyday wear and tear. Look for watches with sturdy materials, scratch-resistant screens, and quality construction. Additionally, if you’re into outdoor activities, consider rugged watches designed to handle harsh conditions. Now, onto our list.

The Best Digital Watches From Affordable to Luxury

Casio F91W-1

In the world of digital wristwatches, the Casio F91W-1 is perhaps the quintessential reference, renowned for its accessibility, dependability, and affordable price point. With dimensions of 38.2mm x 35.2mm x 8.5mm (length, width, height), it boasts a compact yet comfortable design that sits well on any wrist. 

This watch features a digital display with a versatile 1/100-second stopwatch, alarm, and 12/24-hour formats, making it a practical choice for daily use and sports activities. Its durable resin case and band ensure longevity, and the water resistance of up to 30 meters is just enough for everyday use. 

Of note, the LED backlight feature is a convenient bonus for low-light situations. Perfect for those seeking an affordable, functional, and durable timepiece, the Casio F91W-1 continues to be a beloved choice for those looking for everyday dependable performance.

Retail Price: $22.95

Casio World Time AE-1200WH-1AV

The Casio World Time AE-1200WH-1AV is a versatile and feature-packed digital world time watch that’s perfect for globetrotters and adventurers alike. With its unique looks flanked with pushers on either side of its case, it comes in at 45mm x 42.1mm x 12.5mm in size (length, width, height) and presents a substantial yet comfortable presence on the wrist. 

This timepiece excels in its world-time functionality, displaying 31 timezones across 48 cities, making it an invaluable tool for international travel. The watch also offers a 1/100-second stopwatch, five daily alarms, a countdown timer, and 12/24-hour formats. Its utilitarian design, highlighted by a resin case and band, ensures durability, while the LED backlight aids visibility in various lighting conditions. 

With its array of practical features, the Casio World Time AE-1200WH-1AV stands as a reliable companion for those who crave functionality and precision in a stylish and resilient package, with 100 meters of water resistance and a 10-year battery life to boot.

Retail Price: $29.95 

Timex Ironman Classic 30 Full Size

The Timex Ironman Classic 30 Full Size is a sporty and dependable digital watch that’s designed to keep up with active lifestyles and is another quintessential standby in the category. With a 38mm diameter and a thickness of just over 12mm, it offers a comfortable fit on the wrist and is lightweight in feel due to its resin and acrylic materials. 

Boasting a 30-lap memory, countdown timer, and 100-meter water resistance, it’s ideal for both athletic pursuits and everyday wear. The durable resin case and strap ensure longevity, while the iconic INDIGLO® backlight enhances visibility in low-light conditions. The watch features an alarm, a 24-hour countdown timer, and dual timezone settings, making it a practical companion for travelers. 

With its reliable performance and rugged design, the Timex Ironman Classic 30 Full Size is a fantastic choice for anyone seeking a versatile and durable sports watch that doesn’t compromise on style or functionality with its decidedly modern good looks.

Retail Price: $42.99 

Casio A168WEM-1VT

The Casio A168WEM-1VT is a stylish and versatile digital watch that seamlessly blends retro charm with modern functionality and materials. Its sleek stainless steel case is mirror-finished and measures 36.3mm in diameter (38.6mm in length and 9.6mm in height), offering a comfortable fit for various wrist sizes. 

The watch features a clear digital display with a bright electro-luminescent backlight, making it easy to read the time even in low-light conditions. A classic Casio design, the watch is enhanced by a silver-tone finish and an adjustable stainless steel bracelet. 

Key features include a 1/100-second stopwatch, daily alarm, hourly time signal, auto-calendar (28 days for February), and water resistance up to 30 meters. A perfect blend homage to classic Casio designs with practical features for everyday use.

Retail Price: $49.95 

Timex T80

The Timex T80 line of watches (34mm and 36mm variants of multiple case and strap materials available) is a striking fusion of vintage flair and contemporary functionality. Its compact 34mm case size harkens back to the iconic digital watches of the ’80s, perfect for those who appreciate a retro touch, a look that can’t be mistaken as soon as you set eyes on it. 

Within the line, gold and stainless steel colored options are coupled with matching gold and stainless steel bracelets, as well as being available on resin bands in colors ranging from maroon to tone-on-tone pink. 

The digital display is easy to read, and the watch offers useful features like a 24-hour chronograph, alarm, and Indiglo backlight, ensuring practicality in modern life on top of its stylish looks.

Retail Price: From $59.00 

Casio A700WM-7AVT

Within Casio’s vintage style range of watches sits the A700WM-7AVT, a handsome and sophisticated blend of retro 80’s style accented with a stainless steel mesh band. 

With case dimensions of 37.4 x 35.5 x 6mm (length x width x height), the classic Casio digital watch face design you know in love wears slim and comfortable on the wrist, along with the self-adjustability of the mesh band. 

Key features include a 1/100-second stopwatch, daily alarm, hourly time signal, auto-calendar, and water resistance up to 30 meters, adding practicality to its clean design. The estimated battery life of the CR1616 battery included with the watch is approximately 3 years.

Retail Price: $64.95 

Casio Databank DBC-611-1

Growing up in the early ’90s, the Casio Databank DBC-611-1 would’ve helped me stay a lot more organized (if I wasn’t a kid with nowhere to go and nothing to do). Another star of the Casio Vintage collection, its oblong case with digital display up top and numeric keyboard on the bottom is unmistakable. 

As alluded to above, the standout feature here is its databank functionality, allowing you to store essential information such as phone numbers and appointments. With a 25-page databank capacity, just think of all the information you could input! 

The watch also includes a calculator feature, an 8-digit calculator display, a multi-function alarm, and an auto-calendar, making it a practical accessory for everyday use. The LED backlight ensures readability in any lighting conditions, and the water resistance of up to 50 meters adds to its practicality. If you’ve ever wanted to relive the Golden years of the 80s and 90s, the DBC-611-1 is an immediately compelling watch to add to your collection.

Retail Price: $64.95 

Casio GA2100

Enter the Casio GA2100. Popularly referred to in watch nerd-dom as the “CasiOak”. With their distinctive octagonal bezel (reminiscent of a certain iconic luxury watch), combined with Casio’s rugged durability and cutting-edge features, we have a new line of G-Shock watches launched in 2019. 

With a carbon core guard structure, these watches are both lightweight and highly durable, measuring 45.4mm by 48.5mm in diameter and only 11.9mm thick, making them comfortable on the wrist. The GA2100 line offers a range of features, including multiple timezones, a stopwatch, a countdown timer, and a 200-meter water resistance, and are suitable for hard-wearing activities in true G-Shock fashion. 

The analog-digital display, paired with the Super Illuminator LED light, ensures excellent readability in any situation, and with over 43 different colorways (available as of 2023), one is sure to find a standout CasiOak for their personal tastes.

Retail Price: $99.00 

Casio G-Shock GWM5610-1

When you picture a G-Shock in your head, you’re likely picturing something along the lines of the classic GWM5610-1. With its classic square design, the watch features a tough black resin case and a comfortable adjustable band, just as any other G-Shock. So why the higher price point than a typical G-Shock? 

This G-Shock is solar-powered (Tough Solar, to be exact), equipped with Multi-Band 6 radio-controlled timekeeping for accuracy, and offers a range of useful features, including a full auto-calendar, daily alarm, countdown timer, and 200-meter water resistance. 

As with any G-Shock, the full list of features is too long to list (good luck reading that instruction manual), but at the end of the day, the GWM5610-1 embodies the essence of G-Shock’s toughness while incorporating modern conveniences, making it a reliable and versatile choice for those seeking a durable and feature-packed watch.

Retail Price: $150.00 

Yema LED Silver (ref. YMHF1575-AM)

When thinking of digital watches, Yema may not exactly be the first to come to mind. But there they were, as early as the 1970s, releasing the progenitor of this watch, the Yema LED Silver. 

It’s hard to miss the case upon first view. The striking squared and angled watch head exudes a certain robotic charm, while the characteristic red LED digital display showcases a retro-futuristic touch, offering a distinctive and nostalgic appeal. The LED has a standby mode to ensure low battery consumption and can be lit up by pushing a button on the side of the case. 

At 37.5mm in dimension and 10.5mm thick, the watch is compact on the wrist despite the odd-shaped design. While paying homage to its vintage inspirations, the Yema LED Silver embraces contemporary functionality and build, making it an intriguing choice for those who appreciate a harmonious fusion of classic and cutting-edge design.

Retail Price: $269.00 

Casio G-Shock GM-S5600-1

The G-Shock GM-S5600-1 is Casio’s down-sized version of the standard bearer 5600 series with a polished metal steel case. Paired with a resin band, the watch exudes a refined yet robust appearance (Case size: 43.8mm length, 38.4mm width, 10.9mm height). 

This G-Shock model offers the reliability and shock resistance that the brand is renowned for, with an approximate battery life of 2 years with its CR1616 battery. The digital display is crisp and easy to read, featuring essential functions like daily alarms, world time, and a stopwatch. At the same time, the 200-meter water resistance makes it suitable for various activities like watersports (and the occasional dishwashing). 

The GM-S5600-1 is the epitome of a versatile and durable timepiece, merging G-Shock’s trademark resilience with a touch of sophistication, making it a great choice for both adventure and style-conscious individuals looking for a bit more personal style.

Retail Price: $160.00 

Seiko Prospex “Digi Tuna” SBEP003

With Seiko’s hallowed history in the dive watch space for enthusiasts and laymen alike, it should come as no surprise that within the storied lineup of watches, there exists a digital watch mixing their iconic dive watch style with modern technology. 

Enter the SBEP003 “Digi Tuna”, a watch taking the shrouded case design of the infamous “Tuna” diver (their most robust professional dive watch) and adding in a digital display. No slouch in actual use, the watch is rated to 200 meters of water resistance, and its solar-powered capability (in-house caliber S802 movement) ensures reliability without worrying about battery changes.

Key features include a chronograph, dual time (44 cities), and full auto-calendar (good through the year 2067). The luminescent markers, hands, and the LED backlight, activated by tapping the glass, ensure legibility in low-light environments.

With its calls to heritage design, the “Digi Tuna” not only honors Seiko’s storied history in dive watches but also pushes boundaries, making it a true Prospex gem for enthusiasts seeking a fully capable dive watch in an alternative form factor to the typical G-Shock’s of the market.

Retail Price: $329.00 

Bulova Computron (ref. 97C110)

Pulling from the brand’s Archive Series, Bulova presents the Computron (reference 97C110), combining that nostalgic pull of 1970s design with modern elements and construction techniques of today. At first glance, the distinctive trapezoidal stainless steel case exudes a retro-futuristic vibe, capturing attention with its unique design and gold-tone. 

The digital LED display offers a bold and modern touch, featuring a red LED readout that complements the watch’s overall aesthetic. With its multifunctional capabilities, including time, date, and a dual time zone feature, this watch offers practicality in pair with its unique form.

Retail Price: $395.00 

Autodromo Group C

In a call of celebration of the Digital Age, Autodromo aims to meld the car aesthetics of that day (e.g., Porsche 962C) with watch design—the result: The Autodromo Group C. 

The sleek, slab-sided case will no doubt recall the popular form factor of the Casio’s and Timex’s of the market that enthusiasts will be familiar with but in a new and uniquely aerodynamic way that echoes Autodromo’s aesthetic and design cues as seen across their full lineup. 

For all of its nostalgic and clean looks, the Group C is also no slouch in the feature department, with complications including a chronograph with split time mode, Alarm, and Day/Date display mode. Powered by the reliable Caliber E168 Eco-Drive, the watch is resistant to 30 meters of water and has a 36mm diameter case (42mm length, 10mm height), which should wear well on most wrists. 

Retail Price: $475.00 

Seiko “Arnie” SNJ025

Anyone lucky enough to have lived through or experienced the period that is the 1980s and 1990s is likely to have seen or participated in the viewing of the huge spectacles that were action movies of the day. We’re talking big action films like Commando (1985), Raw Deal (1986), Running Man (1987), and Predator (1987). 

What do these all have in common? The watch on Arnold Schwarzenegger’s wrist: The Seiko H558-5000, a watch still sought after in the vintage market among fans today. 

In 2019, Seiko decided to bless us watch, and movie buffs with the return of this line of ani-digi watches in the SNJ025. As a modern reinterpretation of the classic H558-5000, the SNJ025 has a few upgrades: a solar-powered (6-month power reserve) battery, power display, stopwatch, alarm, and 200 meters of water resistance, to name a few. 

At 47.8mm in case diameter, it might sound like a watch only Arnold could wear but don’t be fooled. With Seiko’s case design magic, even smaller wrists can enjoy the watch, which comes with an adjustable silicone strap for comfort (another upgrade since the older 1980s Seiko rubber).  

Retail Price: $525.00 

Casio G-Shock Full Metal GMW-B5000D-1

Within Casio’s extensive lineup of G-Shock models, the Full Metal GMW-B5000 Series offers a striking metallic look with the iconic square case design. The stainless steel case and band give it a premium look, while the G-Shock’s legendary durability ensures it can handle the most demanding situations. 

The watch boasts an array of modern features (full auto-calendar, world time, alarms, and more) as with most G-Shocks, but a standout feature is the inclusion of Bluetooth connectivity for easy time synchronization and access to various functions via the G-Shock Connected app. 

And did we mention its Tough Solar? The combination of traditional G-Shock toughness, contemporary technology, and refined metal design makes the GMW-B5000D-1 a versatile and striking timepiece.

Retail Price: $550.00 

Hamilton American Classic PSR Digital Quartz (ref. H52414131)

As the originator of the digital watch in the early 1970s, Hamilton’s contribution to the field of digital watchmaking is a story of innovation and survival at a time when traditional watchmaking was thrown to the wayside with the advent of quartz and new technologies in timekeeping. Today, Hamilton offers the American Classic PSR (reference H52414131) to commemorate that historic feat. 

Measuring in at 40.8mm x 34.7mm, the PSR has a few modern upgrades over the vintage models that contemporary collectors may find of use, namely an anti-reflective sapphire crystal, a hybrid LCD and OLED crisp digital display with green digits, and water resistance to 100 meters. 

Simply push the button on the right-hand side of the case, and the time will display. A classic throwback to the style’s originator, the American Classic PSR offers a contemporary gateway to true heritage and digital watch design, married with the confidence of modern watchmaking.

Retail Price: $795.00 

Breitling Aerospace Evo (ref. E79363101B1E1)

Breitling is no stranger to quartz and digital watchmaking. Originally launched in 1985, the Aerospace line was designed to be a multifunction chronograph with the top Swiss technology of the day. As the inheritor of the line, the Aerospace Evo (reference E79363101B1E1) retains the now iconic ani-digi design and style, in addition to all of the latest developments with modern Quartz technology of today. 

Now powered with the official chronometer-certified SuperQuartz caliber, the watch’s functions are accessed in a user-friendly format via the single crown. Parts of the watch include a 1/100th of a second chronograph, second timezone, alarm, countdown timer, minute repeater, and calendar. 

Though made of lightweight titanium, the Aerospace Evo leans on the larger side of its 43mm diameter case (52mm lug-to-lug, 10.8mm thickness) but is every bit as tough and tactical as it looks. A true hero piece if you don’t mind the price tag.

Retail Price: $4,450.00 

Girard-Perregaux Casquette 2.0 (ref. 39800-32-001-32A)

While one may not think of forward-thinking materials luxury watchmaker Girard-Perregaux as a digital watchmaker, it holds true that, as with many traditional watchmakers of the day, they either had to adapt with the times of the quartz revolution or go bust. Between 1976 and 1978, Girard-Perregaux produced the original Casquette digital watch (8200 examples made). 

With the reintroduction of the line in the Casquette 2.0, it’s safe to assume that G-P wouldn’t hold back, and indeed, they haven’t. Now constructed of scratch-resistant ceramic (case) and Grade 5 titanium (caseback), the Casquette 2.0 now weighs 107g, with augmented comfort via the rubber interior of the bracelet, providing more flex against the wrist. 

Keeping the same design language of the original, the digital display now includes a chronograph, date, day, hours and minutes, month, secret date, year, and second timezone functions. 

Retail Price: $4,700 

Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 (ref. 318.90.45.79.01.001)

The Omega Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 (ref. 318.90.45.79.01.001) is a pinnacle of innovative engineering and modern design. Inspired by Omega’s ties to space exploration, the watch showcases a sleek grade 2 titanium case and bracelet, offering durability and a lightweight feel for practical use.

The digital-analog display is intuitive and features many functions, including multiple timezones, chronograph, countdown timer, alarm, perpetual calendar, and more. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal protects the dial, which boasts bold white markers and hands for excellent legibility. The X-33 is powered by a high-precision quartz caliber (Omega Caliber 5619), guaranteeing accuracy.

This timepiece is a homage to Omega’s legacy in space and a testament to the brand’s commitment to pushing boundaries, making it an exceptional choice for those who admire cutting-edge technology and a connection to the cosmos. 

And let’s not forget it’s also flight-qualified by NASA for space missions and is still issued and used by both American and European astronauts on the ISS.

Retail Price: $5,900.00 

Conclusion

As we journey into the future, digital watches continue to intrigue us with their unique blend of innovation, functionality, and style. They have come a long way from their humble beginnings as novelty items to becoming essential companions in our daily lives. Embracing technology while staying true to their classic roots, digital watches can offer the best of both worlds. 

Whether you are a fitness enthusiast, a fashion-forward trendsetter, or simply someone who values convenience and accuracy, a digital watch can be the perfect accessory to complement your lifestyle. As time progresses, these modern timepieces will continue to evolve, leaving an indelible mark on the ever-changing landscape of horology.

PVD & DLC Coating

In the realm of horology, watch enthusiasts and manufacturers are constantly seeking innovative ways to enhance the aesthetics and durability of timepieces. As technologies and manufacturing techniques evolve and become available in the watchmaking world, one such advancement in this field that has left a large footprint in the industry is the advent of watch coatings. 

Among the most popular are Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) and Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coatings. Both techniques have changed the watchmaking landscape, adding a blend of style, resilience, and functionality to modern timepieces. 

In this article, we will delve into the technical aspects of PVD and DLC coatings, analyze their differences, highlight the pros and cons, and explore other types of watch coatings available in the market. Let’s dive in.

What is PVD Coating?

First, a description: Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) is a thin-film coating process that involves depositing various materials on the surface of a watch in a controlled environment. This technique ensures a uniform and resilient layer, enhancing the watch’s appearance and performance. 

PVD coating has gained immense popularity in recent years due to its versatility and ability to cater to various consumer preferences in both aesthetics and practical durability and wear. 

Brands across the price and size spectrum from the micro level all the way to the top high-end have models making use of PVD in various applications. At its core, PVD coating enhances a watch’s looks and durability.

The PVD coating process is a meticulously controlled sequence of steps in manufacturing that transforms the watch’s surface, providing it with an additional layer of protection and aesthetic style (color, texture, etc.).

Cleaning and Preparation

Before the PVD coating process can begin, the watch components undergo a thorough cleaning. This step is crucial to remove any contaminants from the watch’s surface, ensuring optimal coating adhesion. A clean surface allows the coating to bond effectively with the timepiece, preventing any imperfections and enabling a uniform appearance.

Pre-Treatment

Once cleaned, the watch components go through a pre-treatment stage. In this step, the watch’s surface is prepared to increase its reactivity, enhancing the coating’s adhesion. Techniques like etching or ion bombardment are commonly employed in this pre-treatment phase to create a suitable surface for the subsequent deposition in the next step.

Deposition

The heart of the PVD coating process lies in the deposition stage. In a vacuum chamber, the watch components are exposed to a vaporized source material. The most commonly used materials in PVD coating are titanium nitride (TiN), zirconium nitride (ZrN), chromium nitride (CrN), and titanium carbonitride (TiCN). Each material offers distinct properties, including color, hardness, and scratch resistance.

The source material is vaporized using various methods, such as arc evaporation, where an electric arc is generated between the source material and an anode (usually made of copper). The electric arc heats the source material to extremely high temperatures, causing it to vaporize and condense on the watch’s surface. 

Another such technique is sputtering, in which Argon gas (an inert gas that won’t chemically react with the target material) is introduced to the vacuum chamber. An electric field is applied, which ionizes the argon gas, creating a plasma. The plasma, containing positively charged argon ions, bombards the cathode surface with high energy. 

As a result, atoms or ions from the cathode (target material) are sputtered or ejected from the surface, traveling through the vacuum chamber to ultimately condense on the watch surface, creating a thin film coating. In either case, this forms a thin film that adheres uniformly, providing the watch with the desired color and properties.

Post-Treatment

In some cases, an optional post-treatment stage may follow the deposition phase. This additional step further enhances the coating’s properties, such as hardness and adhesion. Post-treatment may involve exposing the coated watch to high temperatures or introducing other elements to improve its durability.

What is DLC Coating?

Often erroneously used interchangeably with PVD coating, Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating is, in fact, a subset of PVD coating, which deserves special attention due to its unique properties. 

DLC coatings are primarily composed of carbon, and as the name suggests, they possess diamond-like attributes, such as exceptional hardness and high resistance to abrasion, which are particularly useful in watchmaking for case durability and robustness. 

The DLC coating process is similar to the standard PVD process, with some modifications to achieve the desired properties of the diamond-like carbon layer. Let’s examine this further.

Cleaning and Pre-Treatment

The watch components undergo thorough cleaning and pre-treatment, as with typical PVD coating, to ensure a clean and reactive surface for the DLC coating to be applied.

Deposition

Here in the deposition stage, we see the major breakaway from the standard PVD coating technique. With DLC coating, a carbon-based source material is used instead of the prior materials (ex: titanium nitride, zirconium nitride, chromium nitride, and titanium carbonitride). 

The carbon material is vaporized using various methods, such as plasma-enhanced chemical vapor deposition (PECVD) or arc evaporation, as described prior. Upon vaporization, the carbon atoms are then ionized and accelerated towards the watch surface, creating a dense and complex carbon layer organized in an amorphous diamond-like structure, giving it diamond-like attributes without the high cost associated with natural diamond material.  

Post-Treatment

DLC coatings often require additional post-treatment to improve their adhesion and hardness. Hydrogenation (introducing hydrogen atoms into the carbon matrix to occupy “vacant” sites within the amorphous carbon structure) is a common post-treatment method that enhances the DLC layer’s properties, making it more stable and less prone to delamination or cracking, as well as enhancing the coating’s ability to stay firmly bonded to the watch surface. 

Differences Between PVD & DLC Coating

Composition

The primary distinction between PVD and DLC coatings lies in their composition. PVD coatings are made of various materials, which allows for a broader spectrum of color options and various degrees of hardness and durability of the finished product. On the other hand, DLC coatings are composed of amorphous carbon, making them exceptionally hard and durable, living up to the “diamond-like” nature as described. 

Hardness

DLC coatings have a superior hardness compared to PVD coatings. Diamond-Like Carbon ranks high on the Vickers hardness scale, giving watches with DLC coating an added level of scratch resistance and protection against wear. Given the atomic structure of the material, it’s likely that DLC coating will have greater resilience and less tendency to flake or wear off the watch case overall, given the same duration of time.

Thickness

PVD coatings tend to be slightly thicker than DLC coatings, which can impact the final aesthetics of the watch. While PVD coatings are more visible, DLC coatings create a sleeker, smoother finish. And while we aren’t talking centimeters or inches of difference to the astute collector or those particular with watch thickness and measurements, it’s something to consider.

Color and Aesthetics

PVD coatings offer a wide range of colors, from gold and black to rose gold and bronze. These options cater to diverse consumer preferences and design choices. On the other hand, DLC coatings are predominantly known for their striking black appearance, though some variations like gray DLC also exist.

The stark black color gives DLC-coated watches a contemporary and sophisticated charm, appealing to many watch enthusiasts, and it’s often used in both sporty or military-leaning designs, which pair well with the material in aesthetic and functionality. 

Pros & Cons of PVD & DLC Coating 

Both PVD and DLC coatings have gained popularity in the watch industry for their versatility and ability to provide both functional and aesthetic benefits to watches. Let’s consider the pros and cons you might consider when choosing a timepiece with either treatment.

Pros

  • Aesthetic Versatility: PVD coatings allow watchmakers to experiment with various colors, catering to a broader range of consumer preferences and style choices. The striking black appearance of DLC-coated watches exudes a contemporary and sophisticated charm, appealing to many watch enthusiasts.
  • Improved Scratch Resistance: The additional layer provided by PVD coatings enhances a watch’s ability to withstand daily wear and tear, preserving its appearance over time. DLC coatings offer an unparalleled level of hardness and scratch resistance, ensuring the watch’s surface remains unmarred for extended periods.
  • Cost-Effective: PVD coating is relatively more affordable than DLC, making it accessible to a broader audience of watch enthusiasts.
  • Low Friction: The smooth surface of DLC coatings reduces friction, leading to enhanced performance and longevity.

Cons

  • Limited Hardness: PVD coatings are not as hard as DLC, making them more susceptible to scratches and wear in the long run.
  • Fading Over Time: While PVD coatings are durable, they may fade over extended periods, particularly when exposed to harsh conditions or regular friction.
  • Limited Color Options: Unlike PVD coatings, DLC coatings are predominantly black (or gray), limiting the color choices available to consumers.
  • High Cost: DLC coating is more expensive than PVD, which can influence the final retail price of DLC-coated watches.

Other Types of Watch Coating

Apart from PVD and DLC coatings, several other watch coating types are available in the market, each with its own distinct attributes.

Ceramic Coating

Ceramic coatings (ex: Cerakote) offer scratch, chemical, and corrosion resistance, as well as a broad range of color options. They are durable and maintain their appearance over time, making them a suitable choice for sports and dive watches, and provide additional personalized customization when added aftermarket. 

Gold Plating

Gold plating provides an opulent appearance to watches, exuding a sense of luxury and prestige. However, it is less scratch-resistant compared to PVD and DLC coatings and may require re-plating over time (look to vintage gold-plated watches as examples). In practice, a layer of deposited gold plating can be much stronger and more resistant to wear than 12-karat or 14-karat gold watch cases at a more cost-effective price. 

Rhodium Plating

Rhodium plating in watchmaking enhances a watch’s shine and offers increased scratch resistance. It is commonly used on white gold or silver watches to prevent tarnishing, though electroplating with Rhodium will not hide surface imperfections.

Conclusion

It would be no understatement to claim that watch coatings have transformed the world of watchmaking, offering a new blend of combined style and resilience since their introduction. PVD and DLC coatings, in particular, have gained immense popularity for their remarkable properties. 

While PVD coatings provide a broader color palette and affordability, DLC coatings excel in terms of hardness and scratch resistance. Understanding these coating techniques empowers watch enthusiasts to make informed choices based on their preferences and intended use when ultimately deciding which watch to purchase. 

Yet, regardless of the type of coating in question, these innovations highlight the dedication of watchmakers in their pursuit of crafting timepieces that not only stand the test of time but also exemplify aesthetic beauty and durability in use.

 As technology continues to advance and materials improve, we can expect even more new technologies and watch coatings to emerge, further evolving the art of watchmaking. Such innovations ensure that watches remain timeless companions that complement both style and substance in our own watch-collecting journeys.

ALL Types of Rolex Bezels Explained

Rolex watches are synonymous with luxury, precision, and timeless elegance. Renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship, engineering, and attention to detail, Rolex timepieces have become iconic symbols of success and prestige. 

With a history dating back to 1905, Rolex has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking and marketing, introducing innovative features and technologies through the years. 

From the classic Datejust and Submariner to the sophisticated Day-Date and Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex offers a diverse range of models to suit various lifestyles and tastes. Each Rolex watch is meticulously crafted using high-quality materials, powered by precise movements, and designed to withstand the rigors of everyday wear. 

A Rolex watch is not just a timekeeping device but a statement of style and accomplishment recognized the world over. In this article, we’ll dive deep into a specific part of Rolex watches: the watch bezel. 

About Watch Bezels

Watch bezels serve both practical and aesthetic functions in wristwatches. A bezel is a ring-like component that surrounds the watch dial or face and is typically located between the crystal or glass covering and the watch’s case. While its primary purpose is to secure the crystal in place, bezels can also offer additional features and benefits depending on their design.

Protection & Durability 

The bezel acts as a protective barrier for the watch face. It helps prevent scratches, impacts, and other forms of damage to the dial, as well as the crystal or glass covering. By creating a raised edge around the watch face, the bezel adds an extra layer of protection against accidental knocks or bumps.

Timekeeping & Measurement 

Some watch bezels are specifically designed for timekeeping or measuring purposes. For example, diver’s watches often feature a unidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings to measure elapsed time underwater. 

The wearer can align the bezel’s marker with the minute hand to track the duration of a dive or any other time-based activity. Similarly, some bezels are designed with tachymeter scales to calculate speed or chronograph functions for measuring elapsed time.

Aesthetic Enhancement 

Bezels play a crucial role in the overall design and appearance of a wristwatch. They come in various materials, finishes, and styles to complement the watch’s aesthetics and create visual appeal. Whether it’s a simple, understated bezel or an elaborate, gemstone-encrusted one, the choice of bezel design can significantly influence the watch’s overall look and feel.

Functional Indicators

In certain watches, bezels can serve as functional indicators or markers. For example, a pilot’s watch might have a bi-directional rotating bezel with a slide rule function to assist with calculations related to aviation, such as fuel consumption or airspeed. These bezels often feature specialized markings or scales that aid in performing specific calculations or conversions.

Versatility & Customization

Some watches feature interchangeable bezels, allowing wearers to change the appearance or functionality of their timepieces easily. These modular bezel systems enable users to swap out bezels of different colors, materials, or functions, providing versatility and personalization options to match various occasions or preferences.

It’s worth noting that not all watches incorporate a functional bezel. Some timepieces, particularly minimalist or dress watches, may have fixed bezels that focus primarily on aesthetics while keeping the watch face unobstructed. 

In such cases, the absence of a functional bezel doesn’t diminish the watch’s overall value or functionality; instead, it reflects a design choice aimed at achieving a specific style or purpose.

Current Types of Rolex Bezels

Rolex watches are known for their attention to detail and precision craftsmanship, and the bezels they use are no exception. Rolex offers a range of different bezel types across their various watch models, each serving a specific purpose and catering to different needs. Here are some of the notable bezel types used by Rolex:

Smooth/Domed Bezel

The Rolex smooth bezel is a hallmark of elegance and sophistication, with just the right touch of sportiness. Found on models such as the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, and Day-Date, and professional models like the Air King and Explorer, this bezel type showcases a sleek and polished surface devoid of any additional markings or textures. 

Its simplicity allows the focus to remain on the dial and overall design of the watch. The smooth bezel complements various styles, from formal occasions to everyday wear, making it a versatile choice for everyday wear. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, Rolex ensures that the smooth bezel seamlessly integrates with the watch case, creating a cohesive and harmonious aesthetic. 

This understated bezel design adds a touch of refined class to the timepiece, making it a timeless and elegant accessory for discerning individuals who appreciate the art of understated luxury.

Fluted Bezel 

The Rolex fluted bezel is an iconic and instantly recognizable feature of many Rolex watches, most notably the Datejust and Day-Date models. This distinctive bezel design showcases vertical ridges or grooves that encircle the outer edge, resembling the edge of a coin. 

The fluted bezel adds a touch of sophistication and character to the timepiece, elevating its aesthetic appeal. Carved with high precision, the fluted bezel also serves a practical purpose, allowing for easy gripping and manipulation when installing the bezel above the sapphire crystal. This bezel design enhances the watch’s visual allure and serves as a hallmark of Rolex’s attention to detail and craftsmanship. 

The Rolex fluted bezel has become the brand’s symbol and trademark feature, making it a coveted feature for those seeking a luxurious and recognizable timepiece. Recently, Rolex released the Perpetual 1908 dress watch collection, featuring finer coin edge ridges set into the bezel.

Diamond-Set Bezel

Rolex gem-set bezels represent the pinnacle of luxury and glamor. These bezels are adorned with carefully selected and expertly set precious gemstones, including diamonds, sapphires, or other exquisite gems. 

Rolex offers gem-set bezels on select models such as the Datejust and Day-Date, and even on sports models such as the Submariner, GMT Master II, and Daytona, enhancing their already distinguished designs. 

The gemstones are expertly placed into the bezel, ensuring precise alignment and a captivating display of brilliance and light play. Rolex’s strict quality standards guarantee that only the finest diamonds and gemstones are used and chosen for their exceptional clarity, color, and cut. The gem-set bezels elevate the watch’s allure, catching the light from every angle and turning heads with a dazzling presence. 

Among the Crown’s technical achievements and prowess, their in-house gem-setting represents the epitome of opulence, making these timepieces a coveted choice for those who seek the highest levels of watchmaking from the brand.

Rotatable Bezel

Among the Rolex catalog, both unidirectional and bidirectional rotating bezels are available on specific watch models for added function. Of the unidirectional variant, both the Submariner and Sea Dweller collections feature rotating bezels designed for diving. Either model’s bezels feature minute markings, allowing divers to accurately measure their elapsed dive time by aligning the bezel’s marker with the minute hand. 

Made from robust materials like ceramic or aluminum (in older generations), Rolex diving bezels are known for their durability and resistance to wear. In the Yacht Master, a bidirectional rotating bezel with a raised 60-minute scale is utilized. 

This bezel is designed for regatta timing, allowing wearers to measure precise intervals. It adds a sporty and nautical touch to the watch’s aesthetics, a bit more modern leaning than the traditional dive bezels mentioned earlier.

24-Hour GMT Bezel

The rotating GMT bezel is a distinct and practical feature found on the GMT-Master II collection, designed specifically for tracking multiple time zones. The bezel, made of robust materials like ceramic or aluminum (in previous generations), incorporates a 24-hour scale that allows wearers to easily reference a second timezone. 

The GMT bezel is bidirectional, enabling smooth and convenient adjustment. It can be rotated in either direction to align the 24-hour scale with the GMT hand on the watch dial. 

By setting the GMT hand to the desired second time zone and aligning it with the bezel, wearers can effortlessly keep track of two different time zones simultaneously. This functionality proves invaluable for travelers, pilots, and individuals who frequently deal with international time differences. It allows for quick and efficient time zone adjustments without affecting the accuracy of the watch’s primary timekeeping function by utilizing the crown for adjustment.

Tachymeter Bezel

The tachymeter bezel on the Rolex Daytona is a functional and iconic feature that enhances the watch’s chronograph capabilities. The bezel incorporates a tachymeter scale, which allows wearers to measure average speed over a known distance using the chronograph function. 

The tachymeter scale is engraved or printed (as on older models) on the outer edge of the bezel and typically ranges from 60 to 400 units per hour. It enables users to calculate speed based on the time taken to cover a specific distance. When the chronograph is activated, the wearer starts timing and stops it after traveling the desired distance.

The chronograph second hand points to the tachymeter scale, indicating the average speed. The tachymeter bezel on the Daytona is a functional tool and adds a sporty and dynamic touch to the watch’s overall design, reflecting the model’s racing heritage and its association with speed and precision.

Ring Command Bezel

The Rolex Yacht-Master II is equipped with a unique and innovative feature known as the “Ring Command” bezel. This specialized bezel is an integral part of the watch’s mechanical movement and allows for manipulating complex functions with haptic ease. 

The Ring Command bezel operates in conjunction with the watch’s programmable countdown timer, which is designed specifically for yacht racing. By rotating the bezel counterclockwise, it engages and unlocks the timer function. From there, the bezel can be turned further to set the desired countdown time.

Once the countdown begins, the bezel remains stationary, ensuring accurate timekeeping. 
The functionality of the Ring Command bezel lies in its intricate internal mechanism, which interacts with the watch’s movement to control the countdown timer. This innovative design enables precise and intuitive operation, allowing sailors to focus on their race preparations without any complexity.

Other Notable Types of Rolex Bezels

Outside of the current catalog’s range of bezel configurations, Rolex has historically utilized other types of bezels which are no longer in production, whether due to style and taste preferences changing through the years or streamlining of manufacturing across their product offerings today. Let’s explore this further. 

Engine Turned Bezel

No longer in production, the Engine Turned Bezel, commonly featured in historic collections such as the Air King, Datejust, Oyster Perpetual, and Date models, was a practical alternative for those seeking a design less formal than a fully fluted bezel, yet not as stark as a smooth domed bezel. 

Bark Bezel

Also no longer being produced, the bark bezel was utilized mainly on Day-Date and a small number of Datejust watches and featured even finer ridging along the surface of the bezel (quite like the texture of bark) than a traditional fluted bezel in fine materials like yellow and white gold.

Pyramid Bezel

As the name suggests, the Pyramid bezel featured pyramid-shaped decorative carvings on the bezel. Found on dressier pieces and often paired with gem set detailing, the Pyramid bezel was utilized on Day Date, Oysterquartz Day Date, as well as Lady Datejust timepieces. 

Florentine Bezel

The Florentine bezel is a very fine, almost filed-like texture which was rarely used on particular Datejust and Oyster Perpetual models. Adding a finer texture to what otherwise would be a traditional smooth bezel, it’s a particularly refined look not often seen in the brand’s catalog.

Moreau Bezel

Not widely produced or replicated, the Moreau bezel is a rare bezel type from the Crown, which featured a hashmark mix of engraving and textured finishing on select gold Date and Datejust models.

Greek Key Bezel

Echoing emblematic Greek decoration and patterning, the Greek Key style bezel from Rolex was only available on special order from the brand, particularly on the reference 1506 Date. Its deep etchings replicate Greek art patterns along the circumference of the bezel, much as the name suggests. 

Moiré Bezel

Similar to the Moreau bezel mentioned prior, the Moiré bezel features small flutings directed inwards towards the dial, as well as flutings crossing against them horizontally around the full circumference of the bezel. The result is a unique texture with an almost antiquated handcraft feel.

Zephyr Bezel

The Zephyr Bezel was featured on the Oyster Perpetual “Zephyr”, produced between the 1950s and 1970s. It features fine fluting and small cut notches at each minute mark on the inner side of the bezel, which the wearer could use as “hashes” for minute markings outside of the dial in practical use. 

Morellis Bezel

Rarely seen, the Morellis bezel is a gold leaf-like texture that is crisp and refined when found on rare Day Date models during the 1960s. The center links of the accompanying president-style bracelets also feature the gold leaf “Morellis” texture, producing an overall impressive if not stark look when compared to fully polished or fluted alternatives.

Conclusion

Over the decades since the brand’s inception, Rolex has continually offered and improved upon its bezel designs across its full range of timepiece offerings. It’s important to note that not all bezel types are available on every Rolex model. Specifically, the choice of bezel type, construction, and materials, depends on the watch’s intended purpose, design, and target audience. 

As a watchmaking and engineering powerhouse of the industry, Rolex has, through the years, selected and designed bezels that align with the functionality and aesthetics of each watch model, ensuring a harmonious and purposeful timepiece. 

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