Category: Watch Reviews

The term “dress watch” sounds very simple and self-explanatory, and because of this, it’s very rarely elaborated upon. Watch wearers, whether new to the game or experienced, are expected to know what one is and how to pick a good one without any real guidance.

Dress watch offerings across the watch market are vast, and there are no official standards to differentiate a decent one from a bad one. And there are so many opinions and schools of thought surrounding the topic of dress watches, too. It’s an absolute minefield.

Some believe a dress watch should be pure and simple, and that no formal outfit is complete without one. Others believe you shouldn’t wear one at all, since checking the time when attending a special occasion is considered rude and distasteful.

But in my opinion, watch-wearing traditions have evolved so much over the decades that in this day and age, anyone can and should be able to wear whatever makes them happy.

Of course, the Cartiers and the Pataks of the world are considered the cream of the crop when it comes to quality dress watches, but what of those in the low-to-mid-tier section? What about the dress watches priced under $1000?

While this guide will list some dress watches that you’ll have no doubt heard of, I’ll also be shining the spotlight on some lesser-known brands. The truth is, there are some micro brands out there producing dress watches and bringing stuff to the table that even hard hitters would struggle to compete with, so they deserve a mention on this list, too.

Of course, automatic watches within this price bracket give you more bang for your buck, but quartz-powered dress watches are also worth some consideration, so I’ve included both! 

So, without further ado, let’s get stuck into this list of top 10 dress watches under $1000. 

Tissot Visodate

You only need to take a quick glance at the Tissot Visodate to realise that its design takes directional cues from a 1950s classic.

It has the curved dial and the domed sapphire glass that give a subtle vintage vibe, providing a scratch-resistant and anti-glare canopy over the dial, including its Day-Date complication at 3 o’clock.

And without being ostentatious, it exudes a distinct retro flavour that you can pretty much pair with any jeans and shirt combo. The Tissot Visodate is no longer available to purchase from the brand’s official website, but many Tissot stockists still have these models available to order.

Stowa Partitio Classic Black

If you quite like the look of Nomos watches but find them a little pricey, Stowa has a great alternative, named the Antea. Still, it’s slightly over budget, with a price tag of around $1,100, so, for something a little more affordable, take a look at this alternative dress watch from Stowa.

It’s called the Partitio, and comes in this “Classic Black” iteration, with legible Arabic numeral hour markers in a subtle cream colour, giving it a slightly vintage edge. The hands, too, have been treated with the same Super-LumiNova material, nodding to 1930s watch styles with their syringe profile.

For under $1000, this Stowa watch comes fitted with an automatic movement made in Switzerland. It also measures a nice and compact 37mm diameter, making it an ideal option for those wanting to avoid large-sized dress watches this summer. 

Cincinnati Guild Mechanical

I’ve touched on Cincinnati Watch Company before. And if you haven’t yet heard of this brand, go check it out, because it’s an American brand making really nice watches for an affordable price.

What’s more, it’s not even trying to be anything other than itself. Its designs take inspiration from the golden era of mechanical watchmaking within this mid-western town in Southwest Ohio – an area that had a powerful voice in the industry during the 20th century.

After all, the town was once home to Gruen watch company, where Cincinnati Watch Company now resides.

The Guild Mechanical is an unusual-looking watch that will undoubtedly appeal to you if you have an eye for unorthodox designs. The 38mm steel watch features an inner white dial and a black hour ring, framed by a discreet minute track.

But here’s where the design gets even more interesting, because for under $1k, you’re not just getting any Swiss movement, you’re getting a Sellita Elabore movement that has been hand-assembled in-house at Cincinnati Watch Company. It’s a pretty interesting concept to add to any collection, especially one lacking a quirky dress watch. 

Baltic MR01

Baltic is an influential micro brand based in Paris. When I mentioned earlier that some micro brands are producing affordable dress watches with techniques and design elements that many larger brands wouldn’t even attempt, the MR01 by Baltic is what I’m talking about.

Firstly, the fact that this watch has been integrated with a micro rotor movement is pretty exceptional. It’s incredibly rare to see a watch with a micro rotor movement at this price point. It also has a nice compact case size that fits the current demand for smaller-sized watches.

As a vintage throwback to yesteryear watches, Baltic equips the MR01 (MR standing for micro rotor) with an acrylic glass. It’s not quite the same as having a sapphire glass front, but perhaps this is the only real compromise you make with this watch.

You could also argue that the beautifully textured dial is probably the most unusual in this entire dress watch guide.

The hour track, represented by silver-coloured Arabic numerals and the feuille-shaped hands, combines with a smooth off-centre small seconds sub-dial, creating something pretty phenomenal, especially when you admire it up close and under the light.

Seiko Presage Cocktail Time SRPB41

This is a no-brainer. Regardless of whether you’re a fan of the rugged dive tool, or you’re a sucker for the classic sports watch, everyone needs a dress watch like the Seiko Cocktail Time in their collection. There are plenty of designs to pick from in this collection, too.

Take, for example, the 77, the 43, and the SRPBs. They’re all top choices. Most of the designs within the collection are the 40mm models, though you can get a more manageable 38mm option should you have slender wrists that could do without the extra steel.

Their timeless dials work on a variety of wrists, while the case itself comprises the brand’s Hardlex Crystal, with case depths spanning just short of 12mm and a 50-meter water resistance that will serve you well should you get caught in the odd rainstorm.

The Seiko Pressge Cocktail Time SRPB41 is a fine example. Its deep blue dial, adorned in a shimmering pressed pattern, sits under a boxed crystal, with tapering hands driven by an in-house automatic movement capable of providing a 41-hour power reserve.

Seiko completes this classic-looking dress watch with a 5-link stainless steel bracelet that will easily elevate any casual wardrobe. Aesthetics aside, I love the concept behind this range.

Seiko launched the Cocktail Time series in 2010, taking inspiration from the work of mixologist Hisashi Kishi. Seiko’s use of colourful dials and in-house mechanical expertise makes the Cocktail Time one of the best value prospects in the realm of affordable dress watches today.

Tissot Le Locle

 Le Locle is Tissot’s home, and although the Seamaster and PRX models are probably the most talked about and popular of Tissot models, when it comes to dress watches, this collection, named after Tissot’s home city, is about as classic as they come.

The range offers some really neat designs, and despite their innate simplicity, added details like the patterned Guilloche centre and smooth outer hour ring create the look of a sector dial.

Also blazoned into the dial at 6 o’clock is the Powermatic 80 lettering, which relates to the power reserve of the Powermatic 80 movement sitting inside these steel cases.

Dress watches are the simplest-looking timepieces, but if you wanted something with an added layer of finesse and depth, you could consider the Le Locle Powermatic 80 Open Heart model. It features a cut-out section of the movement on the dial side, granting a unique glimpse into the engine as it performs.

This 40mm model features a Le Locle-adorned see-through caseback, exposing the movement further. The good news is that you can easily transform this dress watch’s look.

Swap the traditional brown-coloured leather strap with a different band using Tissot’s innovative interchangeable quick-release bracelet design, and enjoy smooth strap changes while you’re on the fly.

Junghans Max Bill Quarz

Sadly, you can’t get the Junghans Max Bill watch with an automatic movement for under $1k anymore, but the quartz version doesn’t exactly disappoint either. Its language of design is one that never seems to have any borders.

People, whether collectors or not, can appreciate its universal style. If you like the signature style of Junghans’ Bauhaus watches, you’ll love the quartz Max Bill. The dials adhere to minimalist design principles and play into the concept of 1930s-era watches.

Even after so many decades, Bauhaus-inspired watches still carry an enduring appeal. The typeface and Junghans’ use of space is nothing short of beautiful. As a lover of German watch design, this is what I’d personally be spending my money on if I were looking at dress watches within this price category.

This 38mm model relays the time functionally and practically with Arabic numeral hour markers and straight central hands, surrounded by a bezel-less case made from steel. Yes, this watch is powered by quartz, but looking at its dial, you’d never guess it was.

Orient Bambino 38mm Small Seconds

When the Orient Bambino came out with a small-second complication and 38mm size, it got heads turning. It took the classic Bambino three-hander and equipped it with the small seconds function at 6 o’clock, and it’s beautiful.

It has a lug-to-lug measurement of 44mm, making it a perfectly compact design for smaller wrists that won’t overhang or impose too much presence when paired with business attire or a suit.

This is just one of the dress watch options you can choose from within the Bambino family, which comes in different dial options, including a black iteration with a white small seconds dial, a white option with gold elements, and an ivory display for a more vintage edge.

Being a sub-40mm model, the Bambino Small Seconds wears so much better as a dress watch, and the dial opening definitely balances the proportions out on the wrist.

Mido Multifort Patrimony

Mido has been around since 1919 and is associated with its automotive-inspired creations and, of course, the Multifort collection. While the Multifort is the brand’s sporty watch collection, some of the designs do sit on the edge of the dress watch genre.

In particular, we have designs like the Multifort Patrimony, which exudes a sensible, casual persona and a beautiful gradient dial, as seen in this striking deep blue variant, complete with a set of syringe hands. Personally, I find the timepieces from this collection more attractive than the Ocean Star.

They have a dial edge and a bezel thinness similar to a MeisterSinger (yes – looping back around to my love of German watches again!). Moreover, I picked out this design since,  as a dress watch under $1000, it certainly looks like it costs a lot more.

The attention to detail in the slimly carved Arabic numerals and the darkening edge around the blue dial make for a particularly intriguing design. The polished steel crown is engraved with the famous Mido name, while the light brown-toned strap is super classic and full of charm.

The sector dial enables the hour markers and the minutes to stand out with prominence in their own sections, and the contours of the polished lugs help to suck the dimensions of the 40mm case in, making it feel more compact overall.

The high-quality movement is also worth mentioning. With a power reserve of 80 hours (the Swatch Group’s Powermatic 80 movement), the Multifort Patrimony will keep an accurate time for several days if you want to alternate it with another watch. Plus, it features a Nivahron balance spring to regulate and control the oscillations of the balance wheel. 

The Hamilton Classic Intra-Matric Auto

Now, the Intra-Matric Champagne watch from Hamilton has been discontinued, but you can still pick it up from various Hamilton stockists from new, and for under a rack. Pre-owned, you will find it even cheaper.

This is another example of a dress watch with a thin bezel. This design element opens up a vast champagne dial, allowing the slim hour and minute hands and slim stick indexes to display the time in a simplified and pared-back format.

Without a doubt, the champagne dial is the star of the show, marrying perfectly with Hamilton’s choice of a dark brown calf leather strap, complete with a traditional steel pin buckle.

The watch has undeniable vintage flair, yet because of its relaxed and simplified dial layout, it will also work well with a contemporary suit. Hamilton experts give this watch a sapphire crystal glass front and 50 meters of water resistance. 

Wrapping Up

Whether it’s a reputable name like Tissot or Hamilton that you seek in a dress watch manufacturer, with a bit of history behind its design, or a kookie micro-brand with a bit of quirkiness, you can certainly pick up a beautiful dress watch for under $1000.

The models in this guide range from simple, minimalist three-handers to models combined with a complication or two. To anyone looking for their first dress watch, I always recommend they try on as many different sizes, case materials and designs as possible to get a feel for what looks and feels natural.

Above all, keep it classy and straightforward, and you can’t go wrong with any of these affordable dress watches.

Sick of bulky, oversized watches? You aren’t alone. In fact, the truth is that small wrists are more common than you think. In this day and age, 42mm-sized watches are the norm, and even larger diameters are commonplace.

But in recent years, we have seen a resurgence in smaller-sized wristwatches, and luckily, for those who aren’t keen on the field watch, there’s now more choice than ever before. Oversized watches are still a mainstay, and that will likely always be the case.

But if you so happen to have small wrists, by wearing a behemoth on your wrist, you risk looking like a kid wearing his dad’s watch. Indeed, a large watch on a small wrist can look unsightly, so the key is to find a case diameter that suits your wrist shape as well as your proportions.

38mm Watches Are Here to Stay

Up until recently, wristwatches have been getting bigger and bigger. Thankfully for those less endowed, including myself (I’m partial to a boyfriend watch), the trend has gradually slowed, and smaller watches are making quite the comeback.

Smaller men’s watches and unisex watches are in, and we now appreciate that watches don’t have to be big and heavy to be worth their price tag.

While there’s still a significant distinction between a man’s and a lady’s watch, lines are blurring, and that’s a good thing. In fact, crafting a watch in smaller proportions requires a higher level of skill and refinement, so much so that consumers perhaps overlook it.

Crafting a smaller, thinner watch requires a smaller, thinner engine, so a 300-meter water-resistant dive watch with proportions of 10mm in thickness and 38mm in width is no easy feat, trust me.

And the downsizing of wristwatches is something that we’re seeing across the board, from microbrands to Swiss hard hitters like Breitling and TUDOR. Big names are shaving millimetres off their biggest icons, and no one is complaining.

Perhaps, the sub-40mm watch is what the industry has been waiting for? A newfound appreciation for refinement in smaller, more concise proportions that makes sense on the wrist!

Understanding Watch Sizes

It can be easy to lose your way when exploring different watch sizes. Simply put, one 38mm watch won’t wear the same as another 38mm watch. That’s because there is more at play than just the diameter of a case alone. Let’s break it down into simpler terms…

Of course, case diameter is the most common watch measurement of all. The diameter of a watch is the measurement from one side of the case to the other, minus the crown. Anything around 36mm to 40mm is ideal for those with slender wrists.

Anything above the 40mm diameter is considered large on an average 6.5 mm- 7 mm wrist circumference. But here’s where it gets confusing, because case depth can also significantly affect how a watch feels and wears on the wrist.

A watch with a slim profile and more tapered lugs will fit more snugly and compactly on the wrist than a thicker watch with squared-off, angular case sides. In the first instance, a slimmer case may be more forgiving of its larger diameter. Now let’s complicate things further.

The lug-to-lug measurement of a case (that is, the distance of the tip of the top lug to the tip of the bottom lug) can make a watch feel too large for the wrist, regardless of case diameter. If the lug-to-lug distance is too long, it will protrude over the sides of the wrist.

You should also consider other factors like crown size, bezel, and pushers on a case. While case diameter and lug-to-lug measurements play an integral role in how a watch feels and wears on the wrist, the smaller features matter too.

11 Top 38mm Watches in Every Category

Now that you have a basic understanding of the factors that contribute to the size of a watch, let’s look at some sweet spot 38mm watches in every category, from dress watches to rugged diver watches, and even the classic steel sports watch. Here they are in no particular order.

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M 38mm 220.10.38.20.01.004

The black and steel version of the 38mm Omega Seamaster is an absolute classic. Its simple three-handed layout makes it suitable for anything from a dinner date to an afternoon at the races.

Its symmetrical steel case, paired with a sophisticated three-link bracelet, holds a Co-Axial Master Chronometer at its centre – the Calibre 8800 – and is certified by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology, promising the industry’s highest standards in accuracy and mechanical precision.

So many love the Seamaster for its compact yet robust design. Plus, if you flip this 150M water-resistant case over, you get a sapphire exhibition glass on the reverse to admire the movement at work.

Omega Speedmaster 38mm 324.30.38.50.03.001

Maybe you already own the ionic black tone-on-tone Speedmaster watch, and you’d like to level up your collection with something different. This blue dial configuration of the 38mm Omega Speedmaster watch certainly gives the famous chronograph a twist.

Its light blue shimmering dial provides the Speedmaster with an extra layer of indulgence. The sun-brushed blue dial is the perfect canvas for a set of three oval-shaped sub-dials, while the tachymeter around the edge allows you to track speed based on distance on a darker blue background for added legibility.

What lends the Speedmaster such comfortable dimensions is its tapering lugs that transition into a brushed and polished 5-link bracelet seamlessly.

Speake-Marin Openworked Dual Time Titanium 38mm 413809250

Anyone who has dipped their toes into the exclusivity of the Speake Marin world will appreciate that the Openworked Dual Time watch is not a cheap watch by any stretch of the imagination.

Still, if you’re planning to push the boat out this summer and are looking for a watch that blends compact proportions with high-quality craftsmanship, you’re on the right lines to look at this watch.

The dual-time complication has been in Speake-Marin’s catalogue for some 70 years and was utilised by the pilots of Pan America Airlines. Today, you can find it in a more ergonomically crafted titanium material, offering a lightweight build that you’ll forget is even on your wrist during long-haul flights.

This is a new-gen Picadilly case in grade 5 titanium with a sapphire crystal front and back that shows an openworked dial and the complex mechanism of the Calibre SMA02 at work through the rear.

A black and brown scale cleverly enhances the dual time indication at 9 o’clock, while the small seconds sub-dial resides between 1 and 3 o’clock.

It’s great to see a complex and non-conventional layout in a 38mm modern watch. Speake-Marin seems to get the balance just right with a smooth black leather strap and unusual details like the heart-shaped hour hand.

Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey Titanium 38mm 565.NX.7071.RX

The Hublot Classic Fusion in Racing Grey is a much more attainable 38mm watch than the Speake-Marin Openworked Dual Time watch, but it also looks drastically different. Hublot is a watchmaker associated with bold, masculine-looking watches built from legit cool AF materials.

However, this particular Classic Fusion watch is not manufactured from the brand’s proprietary King Gold, nor its own high-tech ceramic. This is a lightweight titanium case that emphasises the wearability that goes hand-in-hand with a compact 38mm watch.

That said, the polished facets running along the edges of the case and the angular lines of the brushed titanium surface do create a more chiselled and aggressive appearance that can make the watch feel bulkier on the wrist.

MeisterSinger Perigraph 38mm BM1101G

Meistersinger is a brand with German roots that made a name for itself by creating timepieces with a singular-hand concept. To a novice, the one-hand dial may sound like a complicated way to tell the time, but theoretically, the concept promotes a simplified timekeeping approach.

The Perigraph is a sector dial with a recessed inner date ring and a long needle-fine singular hand that reaches right out to kiss a minute scale around the edge of a white display. For a 38mm watch, the Perigraph creates the impression of a vast, almost flat dial but is saved by a case depth of 10.4mm, which gives it a bit of meat.

The blue minute markers and light brown Arabic numeral hour markers are a nice touch, too, marrying well with the light brown alligator leather strap.

H3: NOMOS Glashütte Club Campus Night Sky 38mm

One stand-out advantage of the solid caseback versions of the Club Campus watch by German brand Nomos Glashutte is the personalisation element.

You can have a specially engraved message on the back of the brand’s non-sapphire caseback versions, making them a popular option for those looking to gift a watch to a loved one to mark a special milestone.

But even if you just love the contemporary beauty and unique colour combinations of the Club Campus, or even the Bauhaus elegance of the brand’s other popular lines, Nomos watches tend to wear small.

This 38mm watch is a relatively new model within the Club Campus range and was launched alongside a striking yellow-coloured Starlight iteration.

This model features a dramatic blue display inspired by the night sky, along with a vivid orange small seconds hand at 6 o’clock and lots of luminous material applied to the Roman and Arabic numerals of this California dial.

Nivada Grenchen Chronosport 38mm 77001A45

If you’re big into your sports watches, you’ll have probably explored Nevada Grenchen watches. The brand is loved for several iconic designs, particularly the F77. But this 38mm watch is the Chronosport, endowed with taupe sub-counters at 9 and 12 o’clock for the small seconds and totaliser.

The Chronosport watch is a unique mix of futuristic shapes and retro elements. The Art Deco typography is an unusual addition in a chronograph and was the work of talented dial designer, Jean Singer, who also innovated the Omega Speedmaster Racing model and the TAG Heuer Skipper.

This 38mm steel model has a domed sapphire crystal glass, which enables the watch to look and feel smaller on the wrist. At the same time, a total of 10 strap configurations can instantly transform the look of the Chronosport to whatever you want, depending on your situation.

Grand Seiko SBGY008

Grand Seiko, though known for its high-end approach to watchmaking compared to Seiko, offers the reference SBGY008 in a very manageable 38mm diameter.

These ideal proportions for a dress watch frame a dial inspired by Winter in Shinshu – the location where one of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking facilities resides.

It is one of the company’s more expensive watches, being crafted from 18ct rose gold and boasting a meticulously hand-finished dial, not to mention a handcrafted Spring Drive movement – the pinnacle of Grand Seiko’s mechanical prowess.

The textured dial of this 38mm Grand Seiko watch catches the light unusually, capturing the bright look of snow, while the golden facets of its applied hour markers create shadows that give you an authentic feel for the brand’s meticulous watchmaking approach.

As a dress watch, you can’t beat 38mm proportions in a rose gold case, and if you like discreet luxury, Grand Seiko hits a home run with this design, embedding diamonds up the sloping sides of the case.

Czapek Passage de Drake Stairway to Eternity 18870005

Named after explorer Sir Francis Drake, the Passage de Drake collection by Czapek & Cie has a unique guilloche dial pattern in salmon that evokes a stairway design.

A repeated, stamped detailing on a dial is a familiar feature that we see in the classic sports watch, particularly those from the 1970s or those imitating the look of one.

The tapering profile of the watch’s case also seamlessly blends into the integrated bracelet, providing an overall compact feel on the wrist, while an “Easy Release” system and micro-adjustment device allow for quick amendments on the fly.

As far as steel sports watches go, the Passage de Drake Stairway to Eternity ticks all the boxes of the classic sports watch, with its integrated design, textured dial, sapphire glass, see-through exhibition caseback, and an in-house movement.

Squale Super- Big Arrows SUPERSSABK.AC

One of the more accessible 38mm watches on this list is the affordable Squale dive watch. I’ve always been a fan of the beads-of-rice bracelet because it gives a timepiece an authentic retro feel. Squale combines the steel bracelet with a 38mm steel case equipped with 200M water resistance in this design.

The lug-to-lug measurement of the Super-Squale Big Arrows watch falls within an ideal range of 45mm to 48mm, measuring on the lower end (45mm), so you certainly don’t need to worry about the case spilling over the sides of your wrist.

A double-domed sapphire crystal sits atop a black dial with lashings of Super-LumiNova material on its arrow-shaped hands and hour markers.

Of course, being a bona fide dive watch, the Super-Squale is equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel with a 60-minute scale to measure elapsed time underwater without running the risk of accidentally extending dive time.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M 220.20.38.20.10.001

We started this guide with Omega, so we’ll end with Omega – one of the world’s most revered watchmakers and a name associated with horological excellence in every aspect. This time, it’s the 38mm Aqua Terra – another compact build that Omega manages to blend with sumptuous materials and an unusual dial colour.

Omega presents this Aqua Terra in steel and rose gold shades, pairing it with a sun-brushed light green dial. The brand’s proprietary 18k Sedna Gold produces a somewhat softer shade of rose gold, which Omega experts repeat in the bud-shaped hour markers and the faceted hands on the dial – all of which have received a layer of Super-LumiNova.

The Aqua Terra is a mix of smoothly sculpted contours, which you can see in the sloping lugs, which nicely draw this 38mm case into the wrist.

Conclusion

Just because leading watchmakers have spent years steadily increasing the diameters of their watches to the point where they almost became unwearable, it doesn’t mean nothing is left for those less endowed. In fact, recent trends over the last few years show that smaller proportions are the way to go.

Before this change, smaller-wristed males were limited to field watches or the odd dress watch at best. If not, they were encroaching on unisex territory, a label brands would use as another way of saying a “lady’s watch” without really saying it.

Brands have tuned into the fact that they could sell a watch better to the male or unisex audience without losing respect from smaller-wristed males who would have felt it inferior to buy a “woman’s watch”.

Now, male consumers don’t have to worry about that. A variety of 38mm watches are listed as “men’s” timepieces today, and they look as solid and purposeful as their beefier siblings.

Whether you have slender wrists or prefer the more compact profile of a high-end timepiece, the current luxury watch industry offers some incredibly beautiful options that, hopefully, this guide has highlighted for you.

No one is going to blame you for instantly thinking of countries like Japan and Switzerland when it comes to conversations about horological domination. It’s completely true that both countries dominate the watchmaking industry, and for very different reasons.

But when we really open the book and delve into the history of watchmaking, it’s much more of an international story. What if I were to tell you that some of the most important watch manufacturers in the world originated from America? True story, really!

A look at the current landscape tells us there are many more hidden players in the watchmaking game than meets the eye. Indeed, the Swiss are not the only ones who know a thing or two about escapements and balance springs.

In fact, the watchmaking scene in the US was positively thriving back in the late 1800s and early 1900s. By this point, America had impressed the Swiss with its watchmaking expertise and mass production of watch parts.

In fact, if it had not been for the Great Depression and World War II, the horological climate could have looked a lot different for us all. Who knows – the Swiss may have never even reclaimed their position as leaders in watch manufacture had it not been for those circumstances.

If you’re interested in exploring US watch brands, you’re reading the right article. In this guide, we’ll examine the history of watchmaking in America and highlight some of the best American watch companies.

The History of American Watchmaking 

Around the 17th and 18th centuries, watchmaking took off in America. Up to that point, the Swiss and British dominated this space. Britain was known for its accuracy, and though British watches may not have been the most stylish, they were certainly some of the most reliable.

It was indeed the Swiss who were the more fashion-conscious of the two countries. British manufacturers began selling their watches to European markets, whilst their cheaper models went to America.

As such, America soon realized that if it wanted to put itself on the map for creating watches of a particular class or style, it would need to disassociate itself from the cheap junk it was becoming known for, and actually begin manufacturing its own timepieces.

The US began large-scale watch manufacturing in Massachusetts in the 1850s, and it soon became a hotbed for watchmaking during the Industrial Revolution.

The Waltham Watch Company was launched in 1854 by Aaron Dennison. Thanks to his expertise, the company produced the first American-made watch and began developing advanced machinery and tools that eventually went on to help American watchmaking really take off.

The tools spread to other industries, too. Meanwhile, the machinery used to cut metal parts and produce watch components was not good news for the British or the Swiss.

Realising their cheap watches were no longer selling well in America, a quick visit across the pond confirmed that the country’s technology was far superior to their own and could even develop quality screws that their machinery couldn’t.

To cut a long story short, the Swiss were impressed by America’s newfangled technology. They took inspiration from them, and although the Swiss were still dominating the industry and producing watches with hand-finished components, they couldn’t compete with America on large-scale manufacture.

American design elements even became apparent in some of the simpler models, acquiring their own identity. But by the 1900s, the Swiss had managed to catch up with America and were competing in the same space for the more affordable sector.

While Swiss watches were made using components produced in many different factories, US watches were developed in one factory. Therefore, if the Swiss had a supplier problem, they had alternatives to explore. 

America didn’t have various suppliers to fall back on. Switzerland was also quick off the mark in supplying wristwatches to the military during the First World War.

By the time the Great Depression had arrived, consumer goods like wristwatches were out of the question. No one could afford them. However, Swiss brands were in a much better position to supply wristwatches to aid the efforts of WWII.

America would struggle to overcome this blow. One brand that did survive the ordeal, however, was a manufacturer called The Waterbury Clock Company – AKA Timex. Now hold that thought.

15 Best American-Made Watch Brands

Today, millions of watches are imported to the USA from countries like Switzerland and Japan every year. Although traditional American watchmaking had all but disappeared during the 20th Century, new entrepreneurs are gradually re-entering the watchmaking scene, each one striving to bring authentic American watchmaking back to its shores.

Some brands like RGM make almost every element of their watches in-house, while others like Shinola assemble watches in America, creating dozens of jobs but importing their components from third-party manufacturers overseas.

With that in mind, it’s easy to see how the lines can become blurred between those brands that are the true “Made in America” type and those that aren’t. Either way, here are 15 American watch brands producing good-quality watches in 2025.

Timex

Let’s kick-start this guide to the best American watch brands with a name you’ll have heard of: Timex. The brand is technically owned by a Dutch holding company and has a history that stems far beyond the Timex name (1950) to the Waterbury Clock Company, founded in the 1850s.

Timex is the brand that created the famous Mickey Mouse watches you’ll remember from your childhood, and innovated classics like the M79, the Marlin, and the Waterbury.

Along with producing simple time and date dress watches, Timex offers an array of military-inspired mechanicals, including GMT complications and chronographs.

Benrus

Benrus still resides in New York City and was founded in 1921 by three brothers. This American watch brand played an essential role during the Vietnam War, providing the American troops with legible field watches.

As such, its Type I and Type II watches were the top choice for the US Navy during the 1970s. The company specialises in military field watches and, over the years, has created many styles, acquiring an impressive fan base that included the likes of John F Kennedy, who was gifted a Benrus watch in the 1960s.

J.N. Shapiro

J.N. Shapiro is a relatively young brand that was founded in 2018. Based in California, the company’s founder, Josh Shapiro, and his team focus on crafting high-end watches. They hope that someday the company will become a vertically integrated setup.

The brand’s initial Infinity watch used German parts, enhanced by J.N. Shapiro’s in-house design, including its covetable engine-turned dials. Today, around 150 of its 180 watch components are created in-house, demonstrating the brand’s relentless drive for complete independence.

Of course, such a level of skill in a watch does not come cheap. J.N. Shapiro watches are expensive, with average prices ranging from $ 70k to $ 85k.

Weiss

Weiss was founded by a watchmaker with unparalleled expertise in horology, having worked for Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin – two of the “Big Three” in watchmaking. Cameron Weiss set up in 2013, developing wristwatches inspired by vintage aircraft and old 1950s diving apparatus.

Although originally founded in LA, Weiss now resides in Tennessee, where each watch is individually hand-assembled by a Swiss-trained watchmaker.

Every watch’s case, crown, and strap buckle is machined from a single block of steel, while inside each watch is an in-house movement that is 95% American-made.

Autodromo

Autodromo is another young brand (founded in 2011) that creates timepieces inspired by the world of motoring. Because of this special USP, the brand now appeals to motorsport enthusiasts far and wide.

One of the company’s bestsellers is the Prototipo Chronograph with a distinctive 1960s racing chronograph aesthetic. Meanwhile, the brand’s Group C model is a digital watch with motorsport roots, blending classic looks with the digital era.

RGM

If in-house manufacture is important to you in an American watch brand, RGM should be on your radar. The initials stand for Roland G. Murphy – the founder of the company and a trained watchmaker, who initially worked for Hamilton as a technical manager.

Murphy was responsible for crafting the first high-grade American mechanical watch in over four decades, resuscitating this once thriving industry.

Murphy followed this up with a moonphase calibre 20 watch with a tonneau-shaped case featuring a motor barrel that reduced friction. The mechanism was once used in American railroad watches.

Vortic

Vortic was founded on a unique vision shared by three entrepreneurs who wanted to create steel watches developed by a 3D printing machine, and could house original pocket watch movements.

These movements, discarded by brands like Waltham, Hamilton, and Elgin watches, appealed to collectors far and wide.

Today, Voetic watches are made using CNC machines. Still, they are no less impressive, honouring styles from yesteryear and falling into one of three main categories: the American Artisan, the Railroad Editions, and the Military.

Shinola

Shinola communicated its mission to reinvent quality watch manufacturing in America by naming itself after the defunct shoe polish company that became famous for its phrase “you don’t know shit from Shinola”.

Ironically enough, the Texas-based watchmaker uses watch parts imported from all over the world, including China, Thailand, and Europe. Shinola is a lifestyle brand offering watches with quartz and mechanical movements.

It has a nuanced history, chequered by the scrutiny it has received for bearing labels like “Made in America” and “Made in Detroit”. Even so, the brand produces a vast array of stylish watches of the quality that you would expect from its price point.

LUM-TEC

LUM-TEC is based in Ohio and owned by Wiegand Custom Watch Company LLC. That company produces parts for private-label watches, but LUM-TEC is its showcase brand.

As you would expect from its name, the brand is synonymous with excellent luminosity and specialises in its own luminous technology – MVD (Maximum Darkness Visibility). The technology comprises a white titanium dioxide layer and another six layers of custom-developed Super-LumiNova.

Lastly, the concoction receives a glass coat layer. Underneath the dial, however, are Japanese or Swiss movements. LUM-TEC even produces a cool lume-coated NATO strap that complements its rugged, no-nonsense military-inspired watch designs.  

Oak & Oscar

If you’ve heard of Oak & Oscar, you’re likely familiar with its Burnham watch – a time and date watch that takes its name from one of several Windy City Skyscrapers of its hometown, Chicago. As a running theme throughout Oak & Oscar’s catalogue, these watches have given the brand a unique identity. \

The “Oscar” part of the company is named after one of the founder’s pet dogs, and subsequently, the brand demonstrates its love of dogs in its mission statement, supporting local dog rescue centres via its sales of watches.

Nodus

The name Nodus derives from the Larin word for “pathways,” which signifies the microbrand’s uniting of two paths – modern and vintage. The company’s forest watch arrived in 2017 with a distinctive retro dive watch aesthetic.

That initial model went on to inspire popular designs like the Sector Dive and the Retrospect. Nodus uses imported watch parts but designs and assembles them in-house within its company’s HQs in Los Angeles.

Waldan

Whilst imprisoned during WWII, Polish company founder Oscar Waldan taught himself the craft of watchmaking at Buchenwald concentration camp. The company’s backstory is one of strength, resilience, and empowerment, and now resides in New York as Waldan Watch Company.

The company is now under the guidance of Walden’s grandson, who revived the brand in 2020. Waldan watches are a mix of important, home-soil parts, and feature high-grade stainless steel cases, sapphire crystal glass fronts, and FTS “Ameriquartz” movements.

The watches are all assembled in America and tested there, too, including popular designs like the Heritage Professional and Heritage Sport.

Vaer

Can’t afford the watches you like, and the ones you can afford, you dislike? If that’s your view on watches, you share your opinion with the founders of Vaer, so this American watch brand’s designs may be worth checking out. Vaer first began releasing watches assembled overseas, but now manufactures its own watches.

Vaer watches are aimed at sporty individuals and those who spend a lot of time outdoors, with designs like the D5 Tropic USA Automatic and S5 Calendar Field proving to be pillars of the brand’s success.

Vaer equips its watches with Japanese solar-powered watches and Sellita-powered automatics, making them perfect for everyday wear.

Resco Instruments

Every watch from Resco Instruments is designed, assembled, and tested at the company’s Coronado-based facilities in California, including its very first model – the Gent Patriot – a rugged utilitarian model with bags of character and solid functionality.

The brand specialises in watches that can be worn “downrange” for a more casual, daily look, and produces watches on a low scale. Some 600-1000 Resco Instruments watches are made each year.

Despite this, the collection is diverse, including models like the Black Frog, geared towards those who love military dive watch designs.

Cincinnati Watch Company

The clue is in the name. Cincinnati Watch Company is an American watch brand that arrived in 2018 and originally went by the name “Build Your Own Watch”. Since that founding year, the company has slowly but surely grown and now offers a catalogue of watches inspired by the historic landmarks of its town.

For example, the Union Terminal watch was inspired by the Art Deco “Queen City” train station, and the Guild Mechanical pays homage to the “Time Hall” guild hall that was once the home of the Gruen Watch Company, where it now resides.

American Watchmaking Today

Sadly, the US is no longer considered one of the leading lights in the watchmaking world, but the country deserves so much more recognition than it gets.

America played such an important role in the world of watches today, shaping history and birthing some of the most successful timepieces on the planet. We really do owe a lot to American watchmakers.

The current horological landscape tells us two things in particular. One is that foreign companies bought out leaders in this field of expertise. Examples include Hamilton, Ball Watch Company, and Bulova.

Secondly, it tells us that many other established brands sadly disappeared somewhere along the way. That said, some really good US watch brands are out there, offering timepieces at all price ranges from budget to high-end.

The reality is that very few quality watches are made in America today. Brands like Waltham, Bulova, and Elgin, which influenced the Swiss with their cutting-edge machinery and innovative designs, have survived, albeit only by name.

These brands are still popular, but not so much for their American roots, which is a huge shame. If for nothing else, America is today associated with the mass manufacture of inexpensive, disposable watches – a market that grew unexpectedly from the 1960s onwards.

Names like Timex are recognised all over the globe, and though this brand caters to a more budget-focused audience, its name is solid. As such, it was one of the few companies to survive Swiss domination and the impact of the quartz revolution.

Because of brands like these in this list, America could one day regain its reputation for crafting quality timepieces and rise from the ashes with a resurgence in authentic American-roots brands. Until then, there are still plenty of watches to enjoy.

The concept of a “casual watch” has evolved quite a bit over the years as we’ve moved into a more informal culture. In the early part of the 20^th century, women mostly wore wristwatches on special occasions, while men used them as a purpose-built tool or with a tuxedo for an important dinner. 

The rise of the everyday watch really took off in the 1950s, and it continued through the Quartz Crisis of the 1980s as remarkably accurate watches became affordable for society at large. 

From the quartz to the advent of smartwatches, mechanical timepieces managed to survive, with casual pieces leading the charge. Here’s a list of worthy wrist companions for those men who want a serious watch, but also want to keep things chill. 

NOMOS Glashütte Tangente

The independent darling of Glashütte, Germany – what NOMOS is doing (and has been doing for many years now) is basically unmatched at this price point.

In-house calibers, a Bauhaus-inspired design language that is truly their own, and excellent finishing make Nomos a very viable brand for your everyday watch needs. 

In fact, legendary watchmaker Philippe Dufour was quoted as saying, “I found that [Nomos] makes a very serious product. I like these watches…not too expensive and good value for money.” For those who aren’t aware, that is extremely high praise.

Consider the Tangente model, which currently has 60 options for you to choose from. They’re all built around NOMOS’ DUW 4601, manual wind caliber, which features a ¾ plate with beautiful sunbeam finishing and the manufacturer’s proprietary Swing System escapement. This is the real deal, folks.

Different dial color combos, date vs. no date, date with power reserve – there’s a little something for everyone here. You can even have your choice of case sizes: 33 mm, 35 mm, or 38 mm (with a few choices even beyond those).

Average price is between $2,500 and $3,000, depending on the model, with options in precious metal priced significantly higher.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

Here we have another affordable option that offers lots of choices. Oris has been killing it the last several years, and the Big Crown Pointer Date might be their most signature piece at the moment. 

It’s easy to see why – this line offers a cleanly executed version of the date pointer complication, with just the right amount of vintage inspiration in those cathedral hands, coin edge bezel, and deliciously antique-ish font.

An exhibition caseback showcases the SW-200-based Oris 754 automatic movement, which offers 38 hours of power reserve.

This is quite a wearable proposition at 40 mm, with the X Cervo Volante Blue coming in a little smaller at 38 mm. And while these are primarily available in stainless steel, a couple of references can be had in bronze for those wanting a little extra oomph. 

Add in some really nice finishing (did I mention the coin edge bezel?) and you’ve got a winning combination that can be dressed up for the boardroom or down for a day of running errands. Prices run from $2,100 to $2,700, depending on the specific reference.

Seiko 5 Sports GMT

The list wouldn’t be complete without a GMT, and this one from Seiko is a great choice. This storied Japanese brand is unique in that it has a major place in the history of horology, but specializes in manufacturing everyday watches that are durable, accurate, and inexpensive. 

The 5 Sports GMT offers multiple case finishes, dial colors from black, to yellow, to orange (my personal favorite), and all are priced under $500, even on a bracelet! 100 meters of water resistance is plenty for an everyday timepiece, and there are options in both 39mm and 42 mm. 

Plus, you get Seiko’s workhorse in-house automatic, Caliber 4R34 movement with an exhibition case back to show it off. This is the perfect choice for someone who wants the ultimate bang for their buck in a casual, everyday timepiece. 

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf

The original Sea Wolf is easily the most identifiable watch ever produced by Zodiac. The earliest known examples date from 1957/1958, but the company claims its year of release as 1953 – the same year as another watch you may have heard of: the Rolex Submariner.

Add in the Fifty Fathoms from Blancpain, and you have perhaps the most defining single year in the history of horology. 

The OG version of the Sea Wolf featured an A Schild automatic movement and a 35 mm stainless steel case. It boasted a water resistance rating of 100 m, and while that may not seem like much by today’s standards, it was twice that of the Fifty Fathoms – a watch that many historians cite as the most robust dive watch of the 1950s.

Dauphine hands, Arabic numerals, a rotating bezel, and applied triangular markers at 12, 3, 6 and 9:00 completed the look. It was unique, and it’s a design that’s largely carried through right up until today. 

Today’s Sea Wolf comes in a variety of flavors, but the Super Sea Wolf Skin is likely closest to the original. The rectangular lumed markers, bezel, and dauphine hands remain, as does an automatic Swiss movement (STP 1-11). 

But you get 200 m of water resistance, a sapphire crystal, and a predicted increase in size to a still reasonable 39 mm. It’s a great time-only watch that is readable in any environment, and at $1,295, it would be a perfect casual piece for someone on a budget.  

Tudor Black Bay 58

I’d guess the Black Bay 58 would be on many people’s list of the best watch releases from the last 5 years. Its praise has come from across the spectrum – from seasoned watch collectors to first time buyers, and in truth, this is a package that’s difficult to argue with. 

Its snowflake hands are a showstopper amongst a super clean, Submariner-style dial. A screw down crown helps ensure its 200 meters of water resistance and its steel bezel with aluminum insert plays with the light in unexpected ways. I think it’s safe to say that Tudor is no longer simply Rolex’s baby brother.

This watch is no less impressive under the hood, where you’ll find Tudor’s manufacture caliber MT5402. It sports 27 jewels, a whopping 70 hours of power reserve, and a COSC (certified chronometer) accuracy rating. 

At $4,175 on a brushed steel Tudor bracelet, you can see why many say this piece is a true “only watch collection” candidate.

Worth noting is that it does wear a little bigger than its stated 39 mm case size, but still looks great on slightly smaller wrists. My personal favorite version (of many) is the black dial M79030N – that red triangle at 12 with pip gets me every time.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Master Chronograph

What can you say about the Speedmaster that Omega hasn’t already said themselves? I kid…though I think even they would acknowledge that much of their brand in recent years has been centered around this watch. 

I can’t say I blame them, though– especially because, forgetting everything else, when you get right down to it, the Speedmaster is a truly excellent watch that might just be the only one you’ll ever need.

For the uninitiated, the Omega Speedmaster debuted in 1957 with the CK2915. It featured a 39 mm case (very large for the time period), radium-lumed broad arrow hands, a tachymeter bezel, a 3-register dial, and the legendary 321 manual wind chronograph movement (co-produced with Lemania).

This original model only stayed in production for 2 years, and as such, it has become highly sought after in the vintage market, with a price tag to match.

After the CK2915, the Speedmaster went through several iterations until 1965, when NASA tested watches by Rolex, Breitling, and Omega in preparation for its first moon mission. Of the 3, only the Omega survived these tests, and 4 years later, Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin each wore a 42 mm Speedmaster 105.012 on Apollo 11. 

After landing, Armstrong was forced to leave his watch behind on the command module as a backup due to a failing electronic timer, leaving Aldrin’s to be the first watch worn on the moon. Sadly, that watch mysteriously disappeared on its way to the Smithsonian – and it hasn’t been seen since. 

The Speedmaster again became a pivotal piece of space tech when, in 1970, Apollo 13’s Commander Jim Lovell’s Speedy was used to time the 14-second firing of the ship’s re-entry rockets, helping the ill-fated ship get back home.

There are a lot of choices when it comes to buying a new Speedy, but my preference (besides vintage) is the Moonwatch, which most adheres to what people think of when you say “Speedmaster.” But going this route means you have yet another decision in front of you – and in my view, an important one. 

A true traditionalist would choose the 50.01.001 at $7,000, which utilizes a Hesalite crystal and a solid caseback.

But I’d be more inclined to spend an extra 1k on the 50.01.002, which employs a sapphire crystal on both the front and the back of the watch, allowing a full view of the work of art that is the caliber 3861. But either way, you really can’t go wrong.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Barakuda

When Blancpain released the Fifty-Fathoms in 1953, it was an absolute game-changer. Widely considered to be the world’s first modern dive watch, it was a piece born out of necessity.

The French Navy needed a watch for their elite diving group known as the Frogmen. Blancpain’s CEO at the time was a diver himself, and gladly accepted the challenge. 

Working directly with the leader of the Frogmen, Blancpain developed a self-winding watch that was fully watertight down to over 91 meters (hence the “Fifty Fathoms” moniker).

It also featured an anti-magnetic case, a unidirectional rotating bezel with dive-time scale, and radium lume to allow for easy viewing in difficult lighting conditions. 

We all take these things for granted now, but make no mistake – in the mid-1950s, they were revolutionary. Oh, and it was 42 mm – absolutely monstrous for the time. 

The original Barakuda (yep, spelled with a “k”) was a variation of the Fifty Fathoms issued to the Bundesmarine, or German Navy. It was named for the German diving company that supplied much of Blancpain’s specialized diving parts.

This model was issued in the 1960s in very limited numbers, and it’s thought that fewer than 150 examples survive today. And even though the 2019 re-edition was limited to only 500 pieces, you’ll have a much easier time finding one than you would an OG version. 

You’ll get a reasonably faithful re-issue, with some wonderful upgrades…many of which can be seen in the in-house automatic caliber 1151, which boasts a massive 100-hour power reserve. The size comes down from 45 mm to a much more wearable 40.5 mm, and you get a sapphire crystal and display back. 

Even the “old radium-type Super Luminova” is done really well and truly makes sense with the watch. This, coming from a guy who generally hates what is now referred to as “faux lume.”

At $25-30k on the pre-owned market, it’s the most expensive watch on our list. But this is true haute horology, folks…and in my view, the best kind. It’s covert in its luxury…those who “know” will know, and to everyone else, it’s simply a very attractive, casual timepiece. 

Junghans Max Bill

Max Bill was a man of many talents. An architect, designer, and a visual artist – this Swiss powerhouse is widely considered to be among the most important and influential creatives of the 20th century. 

He also became an educator, founding the Ulm School of Design in Germany, where he taught the principles of the Bauhaus design tradition. It is this legacy that yielded a line of wristwatches that would bring Max Bill’s work to a wide consumer audience.

Max Bill’s grandfather was a watchmaker, and he began designing watches and clocks with German manufacturer Junghans in 1861.

So, it was only natural that Max would continue that tradition – working with Junghans first on his kitchen clock or “Küchenuhr” in the 1950s, and then on a line of Bauhaus-inspired wristwatches (many with fonts Bill created himself). 

The original Max Bill watches were 34 mm stainless steel, time-only pieces with oversized hour indexes and luminous dots and 3, 6, and 9:00. Inside was Junghans’ in-house manual wind caliber J84/S10, which sported a 45-hour power reserve. One version had Arabic numerals, and the other simply had stick marker indicators.

Most of today’s Max Bill watches are quite faithful to the originals in terms of design and overall look, though different dial colors and complications like a chronograph and/or date are now available.

For the traditional versions, changes include an increase in size to 38 mm and the ETA-based Junghans Caliber J800-1 self-winding movement. 

Vintage Max Bill watches are extremely rare these days. But with the contemporary versions being so faithful to the original look, you have the chance to sport some serious design history for around $1,500. That’s a pretty good deal if you ask me.

Rolex Submariner

A friend of mine and a major collector gave me a prediction recently. He said in a few years, our crew will be reminiscing about our collecting days and the fun we had… and all of us will be wearing a Rolex Submariner. He may very well be right.

Several watches on this list could be “one-watch collection” candidates, but none more so than the Rolex Sub. Perhaps the most recognizable design in wristwatch history (yeah, I said it) – it’s the quintessential casual sports watch that works as well in the elements as it does at your desk. 

It looks great out of the box, and sometimes even better as it begins to show its age. Being a certified chronometer, its movement is super accurate, and the current models showcase a 70-hour power reserve. And there are tons of versions to choose from.

When it debuted in 1953, it stood out amongst its counterparts by being the first diving watch with 100 meters of water resistance.

Fashioned in stainless steel with a black bezel and black time-only dial with radium lume, readability was paramount. It was also very wearable 37 mm and looked amazing on the wrist from the get-go.

6 years later, the case size increased to 40 mm and the Submariner’s position as the flagship model for Rolex’s line-up became cemented.

Crown guards were also introduced that same year, and from there, updates in dial finish and colors, a date complication, precious metals, sapphire crystals, and bezel materials followed. 

But really, the design language of that first release in 1953 can be seen right up through the present day. This is a true exercise in “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”

To me, a stainless steel, black dial, no date version is the truest expression of the Submariner. In the 124060 released in 2020, you’ll get 300 m of water resistance, Rolex’s Cerachrom (ceramic) bezel, Triplock crown, and super bright Chromalight lume (that glows blue when activated). 

Rolex’s in-house Caliber 3230 has a best-in-class anti-shock Parachrom hairspring, a patented anti-magnetic Chronergy escapement, and 70 hours of power reserve. That’s a ton of tech in one 41 mm package, with one of horology’s most historic designs wrapped around it.

While the retail price of a new 124060 on an oyster bracelet is $9,200, the waiting lists are usually long and stock is often reserved for repeat customers. Pre-owned examples range from $10k-$13k, depending on condition.

Conclusion

So, there you have it – a list of casual watches for you men to consider when thinking about your next purchase. Many are viable possibilities as an “only watch,” and all are built well enough to be a companion for many years to come.

Regardless of what watch you choose or how much you spend, the important thing is that your next watch represents your needs and taste. Mechanical timepieces are a respite from today’s disposable culture, and investing in one means that you find value in something crafted with care and attention. 

Having the right watch on your wrist should make you smile. If it doesn’t, go find one that does.

Treading the glamorous path of pure imagination, the pocket watch has dwelt in its own little realm for centuries.

A historic emblem of eras past, this technological revolution changed the way humanity tells time, laying the foundation of a culture that views timekeeping as both a necessity and a luxurious art form. 

Today, we will be looking at how pocket watches have evolved from humanity’s first mobile method to tell time into the classical piece of jewelry they are known for today. We will also be examining the defining characteristics of pocket watches, including the protective coverings, which are notable for being exquisitely crafted, and the sturdy chain used to attach the watch to your clothing. 

Across the market, pocket watches come in many shapes and sizes, though you can typically expect them to carry a round shape with an elegant face that showcases the hours, minutes, and seconds.

The pocket watch market may not be as mainstream as the wristwatch market, but that does not mean it’s any less vibrant. There’s something out there for everyone, and that’s exactly what we’re going to narrow down today. 

History

The invention of the pocket watch can be traced back to Peter Henlein, a German locksmith. The year in which he first developed his masterful creation is up for debate.

Popular consensus seems to be that Henlein created the Portable Pomander Watch in either 1505 or 1510, as his works were typically built into musk-balls or pomanders, a very popular industrial style of that time period. 

These small pendant containers were fashioned from precious metals and are now known as pomander watches, but they were frequently given as gifts to the wealthy or important individuals.

The centuries that followed praised Henlein’s work, recognizing it for its industrial and historical importance, as early pocket watches were designed to be portable time-tellers, completely unreliant on a power source. 

This launched the horology scene into the stratosphere, questioning the limits of what’s possible in the timekeeping world. Not only do these pieces owe everything to Henlein’s historical narrative that allowed them to shine, but every form of mobile timekeeping owes everything they have to the centuries of groundwork that came before. 

The Top 18 Pocket Watches

As we dive into the list, be moved by the rich history that lurks within each and every piece, and consider the prestigious appeal that each work instills within its wearer. Pocket watches are excellent indulgences, and when you have a deeper understanding of the history, it allows you to enjoy them all the more. 

ShoppeWatch Eagle Pocket Watch

The antique, old-school vibe is what keeps pocket watch fans coming back, and it doesn’t get more old-school than the ShoppeWatch.

This piece is praised for its vintage aesthetic, with an eye-catching eagle design across the front of the case, which gives it just enough flair to stand out. 

The half-hunter style means that you can catch a glimpse of the watch face through the aluminum lid, providing a bit of texture and detail that is very much welcome.

Measuring 45 millimeters in diameter and with a 14-inch chain strap, you are going to have no problem sporting this old-timey beauty wherever you go. 

The ShoppeWatch Eagle Pocket Watch costs $29.

August Steiner Silver-Tone Pocket Watch

This exquisite silver beauty pairs best with formal attire, adding much-needed character to any outfit. It features a skeleton dial that showcases the precision and intricacy of the mechanical movement.

The sleekness comes from the engraved concentric circles, and a brushed bezel provides a smooth complement, displaying its elegant Roman numerals as one of the primary eye-catchers. 

For the dial window, a sapphire-coated mineral crystal shines bright, ensuring flawless protection, and with a measurement of 47.5 millimeters, this watch already comes equipped with a sturdy endurance to any potential damage. 

The August Steiner Silver-Tone Pocket Watch costs $64.

ManChDa Mechanical Skeleton Pocket Watch

Skeleton watches are able to demonstrate the intricate perfection it takes to create a piece of this magnitude. It demonstrates acts of incredible engineering on a microscale, which is why the ManChDa is one of the most appealing skeleton pocket watches I have ever seen.

With a transparent front and back, it allows full display of the gears inside, turning the piece into a luxurious spectacle that can fit right inside your pocket.

The luminous hands elevate it even more, allowing for flawless legibility even in the darkest of conditions. This watch has a Victorian vibe, contributing to the classical appeal all the more, and with the post-industrial edge, it’s sure to attract an assortment of admirers. 

The ManChDa Mechanical Skeleton Pocket Watch costs $59.

Stuhrling Provost 980 Hand-wind 48mm Skeleton Pocket Watch

The dramatic black tone of the numerals perfectly complements the Breguet-style hands, creating an incredible amount of classical brilliance reflected on the Provost.

This is a rather large case, measuring 48mm in diameter, and the Krysterna Crystals found on the front and back reinforce the skeleton aesthetic. The bezel is gorgeous as well, providing an incredibly detailed Step Design that adds much-needed texture. 

Overall, the skeleton design and the smooth brushing of the dial are what stand out on this piece. The classical refinement is what sold me, and upon looking closer, you can spot an easy-to-miss detail that serves the aesthetic all the more. 

The Stuhrling Provost 980 Hand-wind 48mm Skeleton Pocket Watch costs $105.

Brelsen Royal Silver Double Hunter Pocket Watch

This mechanical beauty is suitable for every special occasion, matching all suit styles with ease. The white, Roman-numbered dial is reminiscent of a Cartier design, with refined classical elements to give it that dignified antique look. 

The front and back opening case is polished for a lustrous shine, opening to reveal the intricate skeleton face powered by a 17 jewel, 11-¾ ligne, three-hand mechanical movement that can reach 21,600 vph and 40 hours of power reserve.

You’re going to want to sport this piece on special occasions, as its elevated nature could come across as too formal in any other setting. 

The Brelsen Royal Silver Double Hunter Pocket Watch costs $90.

IWC Pallweber Pocket Watch

The Pallweber’s hand-wound movement features two barrels, representing a thoroughly creative take on the traditional pocket watches that we’re used to. Unlike previous pieces, this pocket watch is very modern and fresh, incorporating a fresh, premium feel influenced by its materials.

The 18K gold case is a beauty, opening to a gorgeous display that features the hours and minutes in digital format with large numerals and rotating discs.

The sleek white pairs well with the pristine gold, making this one of the most unique and beautiful pieces on this list. This pocket watch is far from traditional, so it may not appeal to fans of more reserved designs. 

But those whom it does attract will not be disappointed. It’s also worth mentioning that this watch is exceedingly rare as it is part of the Pallweber “150 Years” collection.

Because of this, the Pallweber is viewed as a very prestigious collector’s item and is priced extraordinarily high. It’s a gorgeous, incredibly unique work of art. This list would feel incomplete without giving it some sort of praise.

The IWC Pallweber Pocket Watch costs around $36,000.

Charles-Hubert Stainless Steel Half Hunter Mechanical Pocket Watch

This striking, open-faced timepiece follows a contemporary design that delivers a functional, stylish, and high-level performance directly to your pocket.

The intricate inner parts of the 17-jewel movement are visible from the face, putting on a mesmerising show. The silver tone of this variant is much more preferable, and, in my opinion, complements the low-key aesthetic all the more. 

I should mention that the case is made from stainless steel, and it measures around 47 millimeters, delivering a well-maintained and balanced size that will accommodate its precise performance capabilities. The finish is impeccable as well, adding a subtle vintage vibe that ever-so-slightly contrasts with the modern look. 

The Charles-Hubert Stainless Steel Half Hunter Mechanical Pocket Watch costs $494.

Bulova Sutton Pocket Watch

Bulova’s exceptional reputation extends to its pocket watch collection, with highly accurate, durable, and effortlessly stylish pieces highlighting a bold collection.

The Sutton is both classic and contemporary, with a synthetic sapphire crystal dial window that serves as both a good scratch-resistant option and an aesthetic highlight. This hunter pocket watch has an easy-to-flick stainless steel case that’s perfect against rust and corrosion. 

The skeleton look on this piece is one of the best I’ve seen, revealing an automatic 8N24 movement that both looks and performs at a high-tier level. This watch is a mechanical beauty, and its sleek, silvery coloring reflects that reserved nature that so many, including myself, absolutely adore. 

The Bulova Sutton Pocket Watch costs $357.

Dalvey Full Hunter Pocket Watch

The shimmering blue will immediately catch your eye on this beautiful piece from Dalvey. With finely cut textures and high-detail polishing on the stainless steel, this piece offers top-tier layering that serves the aesthetic incredibly well. 

The face has an overwhelming amount of detail as well, with finely polished Roman numerals and an elegant sub-dial that rounds the dial out in perfect symmetry while also providing a good bit of character that serves as a foundation.

The steel is smooth, and the case front is simple, allowing for easy opening and maneuvering, and the Japanese quartz movement carries that simplicity to the inside of the piece, too. 

The Dalvey Full Hunter Pocket Watch costs $279.

Rapport London Open Face Pocket Watch

This open-faced beauty displays its classical elegance at all times, making it a glorious accessory for everyday wear.

The thin, black Roman numerals and the minuscule blue hands really tie this piece together for me. Once again, this piece is reminiscent of a traditional Cartier design, and with the gold exterior, it’s an even more fitting comparison. 

I’m a sucker for a symmetrical sub-dial. If done right, they have the potential to elevate the piece even more. This one in particular is very gorgeous and creates a tight, even feeling that delivers all the elements of this stunner in a nice little package. 

The Rapport London Open Face Pocket Watch costs $400.

Tissot Savonnete Pocket Watch

Tissot claims that its pocket watches “are keeping the romance of timekeeping alive,” and with pieces like this, they may, in fact, be telling the truth.

This quartz pocket watch is silver all around, with the sleek dial catching the light, causing it to shimmer, and the elevated darkness of the Roman numerals being contrasted with the snowy-white dial. 

The hands are paper thin, and there is a very small date window above the 6 o’clock, but other than that, this piece is very subtle and secure, with no outstanding features that are overwhelmingly glamorous, just the way Tissot intended.

Tissot is unmatched when it comes to simple designs that preserve the raw, unfiltered beauty of traditional timekeeping. Their pocket watches are no exception.

The Tissot Savonnete Pocket Watch costs $325.

Jeanne Pierre Quartz Full Hunter Pocket Watch

This prestigious piece is made for gentlemen who value style and sophistication above all else. With a timeless feel, Jeanne Pierre delivers us a gold-plated, stunningly polished, and expertly crafted device whose classical nature is reinforced by the traditional and clean aesthetic. 

The pristine white dial with black Roman numerals follows in the footsteps of pieces that have come before, but that doesn’t mean they don’t embody their own creative design, as the elegant sword hands and date window on the 3 o’clock give this piece a unique flair.

With a case diameter of 48mm, you are going to enjoy every bit of this golden beauty, and the front case has sort of a diamond texture on the front, enriching your experience with another layer of detail. 

The Jeanne Pierre Quartz Full Hunter Pocket Watch costs $200.

Breslin “To My Son” Lion Bronze Pocket Watch

This traditional bronze colored quartz pocket watch from Breselen is engraved with a lion crest and a “to my son” text along the front cover. When you open it up and peer inside, you are met with an elegant white dial with Breslin-styled Roman numerals and the “quartz” text residing above the 6 o’clock. 

Though it is labeled as a bronze pocket watch, the true material is stainless steel, which gives it the appearance of authentic bronze. This may come across as disappointing, but the color is still fantastic, and even though it isn’t truly bronze, the front engraving and the classical beauty of the dial make up for it more than enough.

The Breslin “To My Son” Lion Bronze Pocket Watch costs $51. 

Sturhling Vintage 6053 Hand-wind 47mm Skeleton Pocket Watch

Modern engineering meets classic elegance in this skeletonized beauty. The intricate inner workings are on full display, reflecting the iconic Sturhling look that so many have fallen in love with. The 30-hour power reserve ensures consistent timekeeping and reliability, maintaining an 18,000 vph frequency at all times. 

The 19-jewel movement offers flawless durability and a smooth feel, and the stainless steel case has a very robust finish that pairs perfectly with the white dial. This piece is gorgeous.

I love how enough of the movement is visible to serve as a perfect contrast to the white coloring. Overall, this is one of my favorite aesthetic pieces on this list. 

The Stuhrling Vintage 6053 Hand-wind 47mm Skeleton Pocket Watch costs $595.

Patek Philippe 980-R Hunter-Case Pocket Watch

This distinguished piece is crafted from 18k rose gold with a hunter case that provides protection and a sapphire crystal screw down case back.

The Arabic numeral hour markers are a nice change of pace from the seemingly endless Roman numeral pieces, and the slender hands give a very tight feel to the piece, one that is compact and reserved. 

The dial itself is a faint white, blending seamlessly with the rose gold, and there’s a little sub dial hanging just above the 6 o’clock mark that is very easy to miss.

As expected from Patek Philippe, this piece is not cheap, but do remember that it’s made from pure 18k rose gold. It’s a stunner, but being made from high-level materials such as this unfortunately demands a hefty price tag. 

The Patek Philippe 980-R Hunter-Case Pocket Watch costs around $47,000.

Tiffany & Co. Movado Gold Pocket Watch

This Swiss-made gold piece is a classic antique straight out of the 40s. Measuring 43mm in diameter, this piece is very small and compact, but you can be sure that it maintains its original condition despite its age. 

Made from 14k gold, this piece is yet another compactly designed beauty, and when you slide off the caseback, it becomes even more impressive when you see the paper-thin Movado movement working overtime.

Speaking of the case, it is engraved with initials that maintain a sense of antiquity, fully embodying the historic legacy of this timeless design. 

The Tiffany & Co. Movado Gold Pocket Watch costs $3,000.

Gotham Men’s Classic Silver-Tone Pocket Watch

This is a modern-looking pocket watch that I find to be very out there in terms of its aesthetic. It’s reminiscent of divers’ watches that those who love to traverse the water love to wear, so it may pair well with boating attire, though I would not recommend jumping in with this piece. 

Features include a precision 17 jewel mechanical small seconds hand movement, which fuels the quite large case size of 54mm, and a white ceramic dial that is contrasted quite nicely by thick, black numerals and a set of very large navy blue hands.

I enjoy looking at the little sub-dial that resides under the 6 o’clock, as all the detail serves the silvery case very well. 

The Gotham Men’s Classic Silver-Tone Pocket Watch costs $239.

Stuhrling Modena 991 Automatic Skeleton Pocket Watch

For the last piece on this list, we have one of the most unique-looking Stuhrling pieces I have ever seen. The Modena has an exhibition case back and chain, and the almost completely skeletonized dial provides a perfect vision of the very intricate design.

This watch has two sub-dials, one at the standard 6 o’clock position and the other just below the 12 o’clock. 

The top sub-dial is decorated with a little moon design, providing a splotch of dark color on the otherwise bright palette. Fans of unique pieces will love this. It’s bold, but it’s also extremely brilliant. Sturhling knows how to design pocket watches, that’s for sure. 

The Sturhling Modena 991 Automatic Skeleton Pocket Watch costs $1,250. 

Conclusion

Whether it’s the antiques of the past or the pieces that have been refined to carry a newfound sense of classical elegance, pocket watches will always be among the most beautiful trinkets in the world.

While they may not be as useful or convenient as they once were, no one can deny the technical brilliance and revolutionary qualities that are still felt to this day.

They deserve our respect, and anyone who has declared themselves a fan of timekeeping must be aware of the brilliant engineering that has inspired the pieces of today. 

I hope that this list has shed some insight on the pieces to look out for, and, I will say, despite the obvious outliers, high-quality pocket watches are usually priced very well, especially compared to wrist-watches of the same caliber.

Over the years, it has become a more niche market, but that does make entry a little bit easier for new enthusiasts wanting to get in. 

I wish you luck on your pocket watch journey, and I encourage you to save some respect for the brilliant minds of the past and know that without them, the watch world would look very, very different.