Category: Watch Reviews

I shall start by saying that this isn’t an easy guide to compile. Not by any stretch of the imagination. Why? Because perpetual calendars don’t come cheap.

So, if you happen to have an unshakable penchant for expensive things and a perpetual calendar is next on your list, you’re in trouble. Long-suffering wives can’t know about this guide. It’s strictly between you and me. You’re only browsing, anyway (clears throat).

The trouble is, what would you say when she finds a watch like this stashed in the back of your wardrobe? “What, this old thing? I’ve had it for yonks, darling”. Agreed, it’s a tactic that works better for a watch than it does trying to conceal a new sports car.

But for the majority of us, guilty pleasures as small as a watch can soon become harder to hide the better your other half becomes at using her special impulse buy-antenna. Perhaps the only way to go is a trade-off. You get a new watch, and she can order a new handbag.

Still, like everything, there are more affordable alternatives to even the most expensive lifestyle products. And that’s kind of what a perpetual calendar is. A lifestyle product. It’s no longer an essential tool.

But you can certainly imagine how groundbreaking and indispensable a tool like this was when it arrived, right? This thing could keep you punctual. Could keep you organised. It told the rest of the world you could afford expensive, sophisticated things.  

Not much has changed since then, even by today’s standards. These watches still convey a sense of wealth, good taste, and a degree of horological expertise. But just know this: there are reasonably priced perpetual watches available if you’re serious about owning one and you know where to look.

The History of the Perpetual Calendar Watch

Before we delve into what a perpetual calendar is, it’s essential to examine the calendar itself. Before the Gregorian calendar that we use today, we followed what was known as the Julian calendar (pre-1582).

It was divided into 365 days (each with 24 hours) and 12 months (each with 30 or 31 days), with February comprising just 28 days. There was a problem, however. It didn’t align with the solar year (the time it takes for the Earth to complete one full revolution).

The solar year comprises 365 days, 5 hours, 49 minutes, and 16 seconds. Therefore, Pope Gregory XIII added an extra day to February every four years, which led to the creation of the Gregorian calendar.

Oh, also – to balance the math out – this extra day is left out every 100 years but then added back every 400 years – confusing, I know!  

Hopefully, now you’re getting an idea of how complicated a watch like the perpetual calendar is, as this intricately engineered instrument accounts for all of this for you. The guy behind this revolutionary concept was Thomas Mudge.

He created the first perpetual calendar in pocket watch form in 1762, which was later acquired by the horological giant Patek Philippe, who obtained a patent for it in 1889.

The first Patek Philippe perpetual calendar pocket watch arrived soon after, followed by the first perpetual calendar watch in 1925. The brand also developed the first retrograde perpetual calendar 12 years later and the first series dedicated to the complication a further four years after that.

That same year, it launched a chronograph version. The brand also achieved another milestone in 1962 with the introduction of the first automatic-powered perpetual calendar.

Indeed, Patek Philippe was leaps and bounds ahead of its competition when it came to specialising in this complication. It smashed out several firsts that out-performed many other manufacturers of its time by a country mile!

What Is a Perpetual Calendar?

If you’re serious about owning an affordable perpetual calendar but unsure how it works, keep reading. I promise to keep it brief and to the point.

The Perpetual calendar watch is one of the most sophisticated timepieces out there. For a start, it has a mechanical memory that spans 1,461 days. The watch displays the days of the week, months of the year, and date without requiring manual adjustment.

It takes into account leap years and accounts for the days of the month, regardless of whether they’re 28, 30, or 31 days long. This highly complex mechanism won’t need adjusting as long as you keep it running, whether by a manual wound movement or a self-winding one (or even a quartz movement).

Because there are many different types of perpetual calendar watches on the market, their movements may vary in terms of how they operate. Most are engineered to track the time and date accurately to the year 2100.

These horological works of art comprise a date wheel, a day wheel, a date change lever, and a day-of-the-week lever, as well as month wheels and racks that ensure all parts work in harmony together. Additionally, those watches featuring a moon phase indicator will feature yet another disk.

The ticking machine inside the perpetual calendar, no larger than your big toenail, comprises hundreds of tiny parts all working synergistically together, their performance of which can be admired for a fleeting moment through an exhibition caseback in most designs.

The Difference Between a Perpetual Calendar and an Annual Calendar Watch

If you already own an annual calendar, you’ll know that it works similarly to a perpetual calendar by displaying the day, date, and month alongside the main minutes, hours, and seconds of the day.

However, an annual calendar watch requires adjustment once a year, typically at the end of February, depending on whether it features a 28- or 29-day cycle.

An annual calendar works via 12 teeth to account for the months and five teeth that are longer in size to account for those months with 30 days. These cause the mechanism to rotate an additional time during these months, to skip past the 31st day when not needed.

The perpetual calendar, as mentioned earlier, does all the hard work for you, requiring no adjustments until the year 2100; however, it does come with a higher price tag.

Why Do You Need a Perpetual Calendar Watch?

Despite the market for smartwatches becoming increasingly oversaturated, the allure and appeal of a watch like the perpetual calendar seem to be as prominent as ever.

Of course, you can access the day, date, leap year, and current time with the swipe of a screen on your mobile phone (or other digital device), but perpetual calendar watches look incredibly sophisticated, offering many practical applications in day-to-day life.

This complication is incredibly useful, as it saves you from all the unnecessary hassle of making adjustments like you would with an annual calendar. This is especially true if you own a watch that doesn’t already have the quick-set feature, which allows you to adjust the date without interfering with the hands.

For example, if you accidentally set the date one day too far on an annual calendar watch, you’d have to correct your mistake by winding your crown through an entire cycle until you reach the correct date again.

This can be a hassle if you’re in a hurry. A perpetual calendar takes care of this for you. Moreover, there are numerous designs and manufacturers to explore when shopping for one. Let’s take a look at some affordable perpetual calendar watches…

Some Affordable Perpetual Calendar Watches

Due to the extensive work involved in crafting a perpetual calendar watch, these beautiful instruments often command a higher price tag than most other complications.

Although no perpetual calendar watch can really be classified as “affordable”, we can at least look at some “relatively affordable” ones. Here they are, in no particular order.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar IW344203

Considering perpetual calendars by IWC can reach the $60k mark (and let’s not even mention the $180k ultra-precise Eternal Calendar, accurate to 45 million years!), the reference IW344203, for around the $30k mark, is a reasonably priced offering. For the materials, features and design that you get for its price, you can’t overlook this option.

The Portugieser is one of IWC Schaffhausen’s oldest collections, so it makes sense for the brand to cement something as classic as the perpetual calendar into a cornerstone collection like this.

If you prefer a more understated approach, this design is modest yet incorporates Kurt Klaus’ work on the perpetual calendar from the 1980s.

It recognises the different lengths of the months and leap years, presenting the information concisely and with clarity against a silver-plated dial. The 42mm model features the date at 3 o’clock, the month at 6 o’clock, and the days of the week at 9 o’clock.

This is all thanks to the IWC-manufactured 82650, which offers a 60-hour power reserve. Meanwhile, the gold-plated hands add a nice luxurious touch to this design, as does the classic black alligator leather strap.

Frederique Constant Manufacture Perpetual Calendar

If you’re starting your quest to find an affordable but solidly built perpetual calendar, you need to take a look at the Frederique Constant Manufacture ref. FC-776SAL3H6, priced at just under $10,000.

It’s the no-brainer option for those looking to enjoy the qualities of the sophisticated calendar complication alongside compact case proportions.

The Manufacture Perpetual Calendar is a special watch because it’s powered by Frederique Constant’s 34th in-house movement – the Calibre 776. It boasts a three-day power reserve and showcases its performance via a soft silvery sunray salmon dial.

As one of the most affordable perpetual calendar watches on the market today, this model even offers a glimpse into the performance of the movement via an exhibition caseback.

It’s not the most highly finished movement. Still, the basic perlage and circular Côtes de Genève decoration bring together the traditional elements of a Swiss-made movement, complete with a 72-hour power reserve for occasions where you may want to alternate it with another watch.

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Black Edition

Here’s the thing with the H. Moser & Cie Endeavor watch. It makes something so incredibly complex look as simple as possible with a contemporary, minimalist display.

Those less familiar with this complication could easily underestimate the movement working away inside its 40.8mm titanium case. But don’t be fooled…

This lightweight H. Moser & Cie Endeavour watch features a dial colour that’s closer to anthracite than black. Elegant leaf-shaped hands help perpetuate the flowing curvature of the case and the smooth finish of the rose gold details.

Suffice to say, the brand transforms this highly complex wristwatch, giving it an entirely new platform to showcase its qualities.

Even better value for money, the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar is powered by an in-house manual-winding movement, which displays a date window at 3 o’clock, a small seconds counter at 9 o’clock, and a power reserve indicator on the west side of the dial.

A closer look at the dial reveals a much smaller arrow hand, which is the tell-tale sign of something much more complex happening in the background. The arrow hand points to the month in the same way as you would typically read the hours. So clever and so worth its sub-$30k price tag.

Glashutte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar

If you like Frederique Constant’s style of watch, the Glashutte Original Senator Excellence ref 1-36-02-01-02-71, priced at $23,800, may appeal to you for several apparent reasons. It features beautifully sculpted blue hands, needle-fine hour markers, and a legible railroad minute scale encircling the dial.

A moon phase display is located at 8 o’clock, represented in beautiful blue and silver tones, while on the opposite side of the display, you can access the month and a double-window date.

The Glashutte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar watch features classic Roman numeral hour markers at 12 and 6 o’clock and is powered by the Calibre 36-02 – a Glashutte Original manufactory in-house movement, complete with an impressive 100-hour power reserve.

Keeping track of the passing days of the month is made effortless thanks to the design of this perpetual calendar watch. The fact that Glashutte Original equips it with a robust stainless steel bracelet is another bonus since it can add a much-needed dressy finish to a suit or professional attire.

Breitling B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar

If you’re a fan of pilot watches, you’ll already be acquainted with the iconic Breitling Navitimer watch – the professional pilot’s wrist-worn computer from the 1940s and 1950s.

As is true with any revolutionary watch complication, the slide rule bezel has stood the test of time, and in this design, it combines the ability to calculate fuel consumption and average descent speeds with the ability to account for all days of the year, all for under $35,000.

The calendrical functions of the Breitling Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar are presented on an ice-blue canvas in a sunray effect.

The slide rule bezel is presented in a contrasting black hue, while the silver-coloured hour markers and hands have received a good dose of Super-LumiNova, allowing you to utilise the watch, even in light-limiting conditions.

The piston-style push pieces that control the chronograph functions, however, are what give this perpetual calendar a truly unique edge over anything else on the market.

Combined with that slide rule, this model, complete with a classic black alligator leather band, remains entirely unmatched thanks to its precision and subtly retro aesthetic.  

Tissot Tradition Perpetual Calendar

You can’t mention the name Tissot without thinking of its many affordable wristwatches. If you’re working on a strict budget, then the Tissot Tradition has to be your gateway into affordably luxury watch collecting, whether you’re looking for a perpetual calendar or not.

This is the perfect beginner’s timepiece, combining a robust 42mm stainless steel case, a clean white dial, and a quartz movement – yes, I said quartz! Only a few countries still stock this absolute steal, so your best bet is to find a preowned model in mint condition for around $500 or less.

To the left of the dial, you can track the months in a retrograde-style aperture. The same goes for the days of the week on the opposite side.

Meanwhile, the date is presented in a reversed arc, leaving a slender, faceted minutes hands to stretch right out to the edge of the dial, where an Arabic numeral sits at 12 o’clock.

Models from Tissot’s Tradition collection are all inspired by the brand’s earlier 1950s timepieces, which makes this perpetual calendar and its accompanying brown leather band a completely classic companion to pair with casual attire at the weekend or something more sophisticated by night.

Some of the most attractive details of this affordable perpetual calendar watch include a subtle guilloche decoration on the dial surface and a gently curved case with sculpted lugs.

Citizen Chronograph with Perpetual Calendar: BL5403-03X

The Citizen Perpetual Calendar reference BL5403-03X is not the simplest looking of watches. In fact, it could be too cluttered for some.

However, you can’t deny that Citizen makes some of the most functional and affordable tools on the market, and the brand is synonymous with accuracy, thanks to its solar-powered Eco-Drive technology.

The watch is designed by Citizen experts with one theory in mind – to obtain maximum information at a quick glance. A 100-meter water resistance makes this watch suitable for most outdoor activities, while the brown dial features splashes of red to aid legibility.

This watch is not just a perpetual calendar. It’s also a chronograph with a 1/20th of a second function and an alarm with a power reserve indicator displayed under its mineral glass.

Other features include a gold-coloured stainless steel case with a fluted bezel and an enduring brown leather strap featuring white contrast stitching along the edges. As one of the most affordable options on the list, it will cost you no more than $700.

Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual

There must be a link between salmon-coloured dial watches and affordable perpetual calendars because this is another option that won’t break the bank.

The Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual is a tribute to some of the horological world’s most remarkable feats, including the work of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.

The Austrian watchmaker has already achieved significant success with its Perpetual-Doppel, launched to commemorate the brand’s 15th anniversary, featuring a rattrapante movement.

The appeal of the Chrono Felix Perpetual watch, however, is the fact that it can house the complex calendrical features of the perpetual in compact dimensions of just 38.5mm.

Aside from a double-sealed crown to protect the movement, Harbing equips the watch with an exhibition caseback, allowing you to enjoy the engine in action. Even more enticing, the Habring² Chrono Felix Perpetual is a juxtaposition of two important elements.

One, the Dubois-Depraz-developed perpetual calendar module, and two, Habring’s hand-wound, mono-pusher chronograph movement, with components entirely sourced within Austria.

Conclusion

One would certainly hope that as your affluence grows, so too does your interest in more expensive watches and, thus, your thirst for horological knowledge. But things don’t always happen in the order you want them to. The heart wants what it wants.

If you’ve found yourself toying with the idea of a perpetual calendar but the price is holding you back, you at least have some of the most realistic and achievable options in this list to consider.

These high-end goodies of the watch world can become outrageously out of reach if you don’t hone in on your expectations a little. It’s the nature of the perpetual calendar’s complex design.

The intricate mechanisms inside these watches are nothing short of astounding, and many true horologists would argue that they are worth every penny.

But once you’ve bitten the bug, it becomes hard to ignore the urge to explore the perpetual calendar in different ways, shapes and…prices. My advice would be to set a budget of no more than $30k.

In doing so, you can enjoy all the wonder and allure of this complication along with a reputable brand name, but without overstretching yourself financially. If you find that the perpetual calendar is everything you need in a watch, there’s certainly a much higher level of craftsmanship to explore later down the line.

When it comes to luxury watches, people typically want to make sure they look the same for years, even decades. The most valuable are locked up in safe vaults, never again to see the light of day until they emerge half a century later to be put up for auction. 

After all, who wants to risk putting a scratch mark on their latest several-thousand-dollar acquisition? It’s something you almost always have running through the back of your mind as a luxury watch owner: keep your arms in, don’t risk hitting your watch on anything!

That manner of thinking is exactly why I find bronze watches so interesting. Unlike any other style of watch, bronze watches are encouraged to change, age, and patina over time. That’s almost the entire point of the watch. 

Every mark, every speck of patina, is a badge of honor for a bronze watch. If you’re looking for something unique and special, something clearly distinct from all the rest of the watches that can so easily seem to run together and all look the same, a bronze watch is just what the doctor ordered.

What to Know About Bronze Watches

Before we get into the listing, there are a few things you should know about how your future bronze watch will act and look in different conditions. First of all, there are two different types of bronze, which is a metal alloy of copper and one other metal. 

The first type is tin bronze, or CuSn (with different proportions of Sn, or tin, in the chemical formula depending on the specific type). The other is aluminum bronze, which uses aluminum in place of tin. The two are similar in most regards, but I do want to touch on a few of the differences briefly. 

Tin bronze has a little bit more of a warmer tone to it, and is the type of bronze that has been used historically (such as in the famous Bronze Age), while aluminum bronze is harder and more modern.

Tin bronze also oxidizes more quickly than the aluminum variant. As such, you can find watches in either type of bronze depending on your specific needs for the watch.

Each bronze watch will slowly but surely develop a unique and special patina, much like you’d see from any bronze sculpture or statue outside. This is typically in a black or dark brown color, which gradually overlays the bronze underneath to change its color. 

I called it “unique” just a moment ago because it actually is just that: no two bronze watches will look quite the same because of the different patina pattern that each acquires over time, which is a result of the environment it’s exposed to and the composition of the bronze alloy. However, this isn’t the only type of patina that bronze watches can develop. 

There’s also verdigris, which is the bright aquamarine discoloration that you see on the Statue of Liberty and bronze objects that are more exposed to water. Verdigris isn’t an oxide, so it doesn’t just develop when your watch is exposed to air. 

Rather, it’s produced by the chemical reaction of copper with other compounds like acids and chlorides. It creates an extremely striking effect, and works really well on dive watches to create the image of a watch that has been submerged underwater for a long time.

You do want to be a little careful with this one though, as verdigris can be toxic if you ingest it—although it should be fine on your skin. Just don’t start licking your patinated watch! 

If you’re into this look, however, the best thing you can do for it is go for a lovely salt-water swim (yes, this is me telling you to take a vacation), as the chlorides in salt will react splendidly to form the verdigris you’re looking for.

As a final note, I do want to talk about avoiding patina entirely, or “resetting” it. It’s actually possible to regularly clean your bronze watch without harming it, since the oxidation layer that forms is strictly on the surface level and no deeper. 

If you like the color of bronze and want to avoid patina on your watch, you can clean it using lemon juice or, better yet, a paste made of lemon juice and baking soda.

You’ll want to use a toothbrush, your fingers, or a cloth to apply it to the outside of the watch (don’t just submerge it!) and then gently rub over patinated areas to remove any marks on the bronze. 

This will return your watch back to a lovely bright and shiny state, which means it’s also a great technique to use if you’ve just bought a bronze watch secondhand and you want to “reset” its patina to be unique to you.

The 15 Best Bronze Watches

Now that you know what to look for and how to take care of your future bronze watch, let’s get right into the listing here! There’s something for every interest and budget here, so take your pick, because there’s no right or wrong in watches: only what interests you!

Zelos Aurora Field 38mm BR “Teal Mop” – $500

Zelos has kind of made bronze their thing, so I figured what better place to start off this list than with an affordable and yet striking Zelos field watch? This “Teal Mop” (your guess is as good as mine as to the name) features a tin bronze (CuSn₈) case and a particularly lovely mother-of-pearl dial with a teal fumé color applied to it. 

Even the buckle of the rubber strap it comes on will patina, and Zelos offers additional bronze bracelets for an extra $199. Considering that there are very few other bronze watches out there that also come with a bronze bracelet, I’d definitely give that option some serious thought.

Despite the reduced price, this Zelos runs on an automatic 9-series Miyota movement, the 9039, which is a strong workhorse option used by a lot of smaller brands. Nothing to write home about here, but it gets the job done and avoids falling into the temptation of quartz to save money. That’s all I could ask for.

IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Spitfire Bronze – $7,100

If you get your hands on this watch, I’ll promise you one thing: the patina is going to look incredible. Please don’t polish it! The pairing of dark brown patina, forest green sunray dial, and rich brown strap is just about as close to perfect for a bronze watch as you can get. This is one that was made, without a doubt, with patina in mind, and it shows to excellent effect.

I’m a huge fan of almost everything about this watch: those chronograph pushers, for example, are superbly proportioned; the dial is large and legible; the lozenge hands are perfectly executed and sumptuously lumed. If you’re looking for a textbook pilot’s watch, this is it.

Tucked safely behind the closed caseback, you’ll find ticking away inside the in-house IWC caliber 69380, a superb column-wheel chronograph with automatic winding and a 46-hour power reserve. 

If there was anything else you could possibly ask for, it’d be magnetic resistance—but IWC has you covered there too, with a soft-iron cage surrounding the movement to protect it.

Like the fighter jet it’s named for, the Spitfire will be both the workhorse and the most memorable member of your watch collection.

Tudor Black Bay Bronze – $4,800

Here we have our first bronze dive watch, which is in my personal opinion the best genre to allow bronze to shine. After all, if you allow the watch to live out its purpose as a companion on swims and dives, it’ll not only patina quickly but also develop those stunning pops of verdigris as well. 

Admittedly, however, as much as I am a supporter of allowing bronze to patina, I also love the pairing of the rich bronze color and the slate gray bezel and dial. You really can’t go wrong either way here—both just bring such a beautiful look to the watch. This is a beautiful timepiece no matter what you do to it.

Under the hood, you couldn’t really ask for anything better: Tudor’s in-house caliber MT5601 supplies you with the time with extreme precision since it’s chronometer-certified by COSC. It does one thing, and it does it well. 

You won’t be able to admire its steadfast ticking since the caseback is closed, but you’ll surely see the fruits of its labor every day. The MT5601 can run for about 70 hours straight, and will stay topped up anytime you wear it thanks to automatic winding.

Bremont Argonaut Bronze Blue Dial – $4,200

You don’t see a lot of internal-bezel dive watches these days. Actually, you don’t see a lot of Bremonts either, but that shouldn’t be taken as a reflection of their quality. These are some really solid British-made timepieces, and the Argonaut in particular is one of their finest. 

It’s made as a military watch, inspired in particular by the original Dirty Dozen watches made during WWII for the British military. Since bronze forms a strong oxidation layer on the outside of the metal, it’s actually great for use in naval applications as that layer serves as a protection for the rest of the metal. 

As such, the Argonaut Bronze remains not only strikingly beautiful but also particularly pertinent to its military heritage. The blue dial is extremely legible for any diving use, and both the hands and indices are treated with Super-LumiNova for that much-needed nighttime glow. 

Do note that to use the internal bezel, you’ll want to make use of the watch’s upper crown, while the lower is for setting the (very accurate and chronometer-certified) time. 

Inside, you’ll find the modified caliber BE-92AV, which has all the bells and whistles including a strong 38-hour power reserve, Nivaflex mainspring, Anachron hairspring, and Glucydur balance wheel—all three of which are alloys specifically designed to make each part of the movement run better in all sorts of conditions, especially temperature variations.

Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300 Bronze – $1,300

Another bronze-and-blue diver! There’s just something about that color pairing that works so well for bronze watches, and looks absolutely spectacular here. I love the rich blue ombré lacquer paired with the rose gold indices and hands, which help to pull out the rich tones in the bronze. 

In particular, I can’t help but smile when I see the trident-shaped counterweight on the seconds hand, which could very easily have looked tacky but because of its craftsmanship and style actually is particularly striking.

In a rarity for bronze-cased watches, this one actually features an exhibition caseback, which provides a glimpse at the Sellita SW200 movement inside, which is also COSC-certified, automatic, and has a 38-hour power reserve.

The rest of the caseback that isn’t sapphire is also made from steel, so your skin doesn’t have to be much in contact with the patinated bronze.

Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Limited Edition – $7,100

Limited to 1858 pieces, this Montblanc is a beautifully classy timepiece dedicated to exploration, which you should be able to discern at a glance thanks to the fascinating and pioneering way that Montblanc has chosen to represent the world timezones, via two rotating globes at 12:00 and 6:00. 

I particularly love the cathedral-style hands, which are reminiscent of other exploration watches like the Hamilton Khaki Field, as well as the compass bezel—which yes, you can actually use to find north.

Another fine detail you’ll be sure to appreciate with this watch are the unobtrusive red dots marked on each of the world time indicators, which show the location of the seven mountains that make up the Seven Summit mountaineering challenge.

Flipping the watch over, you’ll be treated to an enameled depiction of the desert, which is the inspiration for the color palette of the watch. It’s framed by the engraved names of each of the Seven Summit mountains, as well as the typical hallmarks. 

If you had X-ray vision, you’d probably be able to see the caliber MB29.25 beating away behind that enameled painting, but since you don’t (or do you?), I’ll just have to tell you about it.

It’s based on the Sellita SW300, but of course has been upgraded with the complication that features both of the world time discs that was developed by Montblanc’s watchmakers. 

It also has automatic winding and a 42-hour power reserve, making for a quality ébauche worthy of the high-quality watch that frames it.

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer Bronze – $1,465

Fun fact about me that nobody asked for: my great-aunt used to work for Hamilton, so I have a particularly soft spot for the ex-American-turned-Swiss brand. That said, it doesn’t take a soft heart to be particularly fond of this exceptional watch. 

It’s extremely subtly done, from the glossy black dive bezel to the fine circular brushing on the case to the beautifully textured matte black dial at the center of it all.

Interestingly, to keep a monochromatic color palette, Hamilton opted to keep even the lume color in an aged yellow, a choice I find curious and yet appealing.

The movement, visible through the exhibition caseback, is rather surprisingly industrial, with its large broad bridges and even straight graining. In that sense, I guess it suits the rest of the watch: utilitarian and purpose-built, even though it still has touches of elegance.

If you’re looking to put a name to it, it’s actually the ETA 6498-1, with special finishing and engraving for Hamilton.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze Green Dial on Bracelet- $3,200

There’s something both vintage and romantic about a pointer date, a watch that shows the date using a hand mounted at the center of the dial instead of a window on the side.

Oris has perfectly capitalized on that old-time charm with a gorgeous green dial and lovely large cathedral hands, as well as, of course, that beautiful bronze case. 

There’s something about the fluted bezel and domed crystal that captivates me: it completes the watch by adding something I can’t express.

But my favorite part? That gorgeous bronze bracelet, sure to acquire the finest patina imaginable since parts of it will be rubbed cleaner by friction and others allowed to develop that beautiful dark brown glow.

Oris’ curious pointer date complication is driven by their caliber 754, which is simple and straightforward but gets the job done perfectly. 38 hours of power reserve and automatic winding? Check. Instantaneous date changeover? Check. Hacking seconds? Check. The cal. 754 passes with flying colors!

Baltic Aquascaphe Bronze Brown – $720

Just one glance at this Baltic Aquascaphe, after the rest of the watches we’ve examined, should be enough to make you curious.

Yes, you’re right—the bronze case is more of a brassy color than the others! That’s because this one is made from aluminum bronze, the variant that patinates more slowly and is much harder and resistant to bumps and knocks. 

Rest assured, however, that it will patina, just with a delayed progression. My favorite part of this watch, though, is that gorgeous brown dial, which evokes vintage “tropical” dials to play off the antique appeal of bronze.

I know some people hate the look of the “fauxtina” in the hands here, but I think it just completes this vintage-style watch.

Just like the Zelos (#1) above, this Baltic makes use of the Miyota 9039 to power its hands. Nothing else to add here that I didn’t mention there, except that here the closed caseback is engraved with a lovely little depiction of a diver for the Aquascaphe line. Enough said!

Zelos Skyraider Bronze Meteorite – $1,099

Sometimes I get a craving for something fully and totally unique. In that mood, no amount of “bronze patina is unique, Marcus!” can get to me. It is, sure, but I need something a little more. If that’s ever you, this next Zelos is for you. 

Not only will its lovely reddish bronze case patinate, but its meteorite dial is also completely unique to you, since it’s cut from a real meteorite and will have unique patterns. Even the hands are in a unique style, thanks to the interesting way that they’re skeletonized. 

Inside, the ETA 6498 is beautifully finished with blued screws, Côtes de Genève, and an anthracite PVD coating to give it that blackened coloring. This one is manual-wind only, which allows you to admire the lovely finishing with nothing in the way as well as interact with your watch each day as you wind it up.

Panerai Submersible Bronzo Blu Abisso – $15,900

We’re now firmly in an entirely different price tier when it comes to bronze watches, but this Panerai Submersible is a spectacular timepiece that certainly merits its cost. 

Not only is it an original spin on one of the most iconic and recognizable watches of all time, but it’s a nearly perfectly executed dive watch that can accompany you all the way down to 300 meters underwater, if you choose to put it through its paces. 

In particular, that large and full cushion case will acquire a superb patina over its extended surface, which will really make this unique watch feel like an artifact from the deep.

Through the exhibition caseback, you’ll be treated to Panerai’s in-house caliber P.900, an automatic-winding movement with a power reserve of an astonishing 3 days without any need to rewind it.

It’s one of the best things about this already-spectacular watch, and shows why Panerai is world-renowned for their divers.

Venezianico Redentore Bronzo – $750

The price tag here has come crashing back down to earth after that Panerai, and yet for the price you still have an absolutely superb bronze timepiece. It was inspired, or so the brand says, by the Four Horses of St. Mark in Venice, the home of Italian microbrand Venezianico. 

If, like me, you’d have to resort to a Google search to picture what we’re talking about here, it’s a sculpture of four bronze horses originally created in ancient Greece which now adorns St. Mark’s Basilica in Venice—hence the name. The best part of this watch, though, isn’t the heritage. 

It’s that exceptional and unique dial, which is crafted from a brass disc that’s been bronzed and patinated, then slightly treated with abrasive material to reveal the underlying metal in places. This process creates a beautiful and unique texture which complements the bronze case, and its later patina, perfectly.

The caseback is adorned with a lovely engraved depiction of the Four Horses that I referred to above, and behind it, we have that trusty old Miyota 9039 that we’ve already seen make an appearance twice before in this article! Nothing more needs to be said about it here—it’s a great movement, and there’s a reason so many brands use it.

Longines Legend Diver Bronze Green Dial – $3,125

I get it. You’re looking for a brand name. Something with a little extra oomph behind it, as compared to a microbrand. An assurance of quality, really. But not with such a big price tag! Here’s just the one for you, my dear imaginary friend: the superb Swiss-made Legend Diver by Longines. 

It’s got all the class and charm you’re looking for, including a brilliantly-executed internal bezel. The dial is so rich and pairs perfectly both with the bronze of the natural case and the patina of a watch that’s been allowed to age gracefully with time.

Even the hands are quite lovely, and to my eyes the hour hand evokes a harpoon as if to further conjure up a bygone age of diving.

The caseback perhaps reinforces my harpoon theory, thanks to its charming little engraving of a diver holding a harpoon as he descends further into the murky depths of the sea. Behind the closed caseback, you’ll find Longines’ caliber L888, which is based on the ETA A31.L11. 

It’s perfect for all your diving and daily-wear needs thanks to its automatic winding and prodigious 72-hour power reserve. It’s a diver that deserves to be a staple in any collection!

Formex Reef Radiant Bronze COSC 300M – $2,065

You’re probably noticing by now that something looks a little different about this one. No, your eyes aren’t deceiving you, that really is a steel case. I wanted to change things up a little bit here by including a bronze dial watch. 

Unlike other bronze watches, however, this Formex has been treated with a lacquer to prevent it from oxidizing, so if you enjoy the natural luster of bronze, this is without a doubt the watch for you. It’s on full display in that gorgeous dial, which just pops in such a lovely and striking way against the black bezel.

The closed caseback, engraved with an interesting wavy pattern, conceals a Sellita SW300-1, another COSC-certified chronometer with automatic winding and a prodigious 56-hour power reserve.

If you could see it, you’d surely also appreciate the custom skeletonized rotor and heat-blued screws used on the movement, but you’ll just have to rest secure in the knowledge that inside your watch is something of real quality, whether you can see it or not.

Omega Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold – $14,300

As a final means of changing things up before we exit this list for good, I’d like to introduce you to this lovely Seamaster 300, crafted in Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold alloy.

Bronze Gold, as the name suggests, is composed of 37.5% gold, which is around 9K in purity, and is also mixed with palladium and silver. This combination gives it a gently rosy tone and also ensures that it will never acquire a verdigris patina. 

It does patinate just like any other bronze, apart from the verdigris, except at a much slower rate, allowing you to easily clean this watch more frequently if you wish to keep its bronze color or alternatively watch a more gradual progression as it ages. The rest of the watch, let me hasten to add, is gorgeous, with a deeply vintage feel that isn’t too in-your-face. 

All of the indices and markers on the dial are made out of tin bronze, so they’ll acquire a patina more rapidly than the rest of the case and end up in a lovely rich brown color.

Inside, you’ve got probably the best movement you’ll see all day, Omega’s caliber 8912, which is a METAS-certified Master Chronometer with—get this—the Co-Axial escapement.

I’m a bit of a geek for the Co-Axial, as it was originally invented by the brilliant George Daniels and now finds its home in many Omega watches. 

It’s one of the best escapements invented in decades, if not centuries, and it’s part of what helps this caliber earn such a prestigious accuracy rating. It’s also automatic and has a solid 60-hour power reserve to boot. It doesn’t get better than that, trust me.

Conclusion

There you have it! 15 of the finest bronze watches ever made, each one of them as unique as you are. Whether you’re a diver looking for something that reminds you of the aquamarine sea or a lover of patina in watches, bronze is perfect for you. You can even keep it shiny if you want! The choice is yours.

When it comes to case sizes, 40mm has always felt like a sweet spot for many of us. It’s big enough to show off, whether that means bold design details or more advanced movements than your classic day and date, but still comfortably wearable day in and day out.

For many of us, it’s the perfect middle ground, being not too chunky nor too dainty, still sliding nicely under a shirt cuff when it needs to and looking sharp but not obtrusive in dressier settings.

And while it’s often marketed as a “men’s size,” a lot of us women (myself included) love the presence and punch of a 40mm case too. It’s confident, versatile, and doesn’t try too hard.

So if you’ve landed on 40mm as your sweet spot, you’re in the right place. This list is dedicated entirely to watches that are a true, no-fudging 40mm across. Not 39.5mm, not 40.5mm but just straight-up 40mm.

Who Would Suit a 40mm Wide Watch?

A 40mm watch tends to look right at home on wrists measuring around 6 to 7 inches in circumference. Typically, on this size wrist, 40mm strikes that happy balance between presence and proportion.

It’s large enough to stand out without overwhelming your wrist, and the proportions usually mean the lugs don’t hang awkwardly over the edge.

That said, these are just general guidelines, not hard rules. I always say you should never let a sizing chart, or anyone else’s ideal case size talk you out of the watch you love.

If your wrist is a bit larger but you prefer a more classic, compact look, 40mm might be exactly what you’re after. On the flip side, if you’ve got smaller wrists, especially common among women, but you’re into bolder, more statement-y pieces, 40mm can absolutely work.

It’s all about how it feels to you. I always suggest trying on a 40mm size for yourself. See how it sits, how it feels and if you love it, choose it. Watch wearing is supposed to be enjoyable, so choose the watches that make you happy, whether it’s a little big, small or perfectly in proportion.

The Best 40mm Watches You Can Buy

So, whether you’re already a 40mm fan or you’re new to discovering how well it suits your wrist, we’ve rounded up some of the best 40mm watches you can get your hands on right now.

There’s no size guesswork, no rounding up or down, just solid, true 40mm picks that look great, wear even better, and cover everything from everyday staples to statement pieces.

Rolex Day-Date 40

If you’re thinking classic elegance, the Rolex Day-Date deserves to be right at the top of this list. Originally introduced in 1956, it was the world’s first wristwatch to spell out the full day of the week alongside the date.

Fast forward to 2015, and Rolex unveiled the Day-Date 40 as a refined update with modern proportions and Rolex’s cutting-edge caliber 3255 movement under the hood.

Sized at a true 40mm, it keeps the signature look of the original but wears just a bit bolder, with slimmer lugs and a balanced dial layout that still feels timeless but never stuffy.

It’s only available in precious metals like yellow gold, Everose, white gold, or platinum, so it’s not the cheapest of 40mm watches out there, but definitely a good investment piece.

Every model comes on the iconic three-link President bracelet, which is as comfortable as it is recognizable.

Price start from $51,000

Omega De Ville Trésor

Most people think of Omega and immediately picture a Seamaster or Speedmaster, icons of dive and space watch fame. But neither is currently available in a true 40mm case, which gives us the perfect opportunity to spotlight one of Omega’s quieter, more refined gems: the De Ville Trésor.

Originally introduced back in 1949, the Trésor line has always leaned elegant. The modern 40mm version keeps that DNA intact with a sleek, ultra-thin case and a design that’s all about restraint and sophistication.

But the manually-wound Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement, caliber 8927, inside is anything but old-fashioned, boasting impressive precision, anti-magnetism, and a beautifully finished display case back.

Finishing the model is a polished case, often seen in yellow gold or other precious metals, paired with a domed dial and simple sub-seconds layout to channel the spirit of vintage dress watches.

Price starts from $7,400

Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar

The Nautilus is already a legend in the world of luxury sports watches, but in 2018, Patek Philippe added a serious twist to its design with a perpetual calendar.

Officially known as the first Grand Complication in the Nautilus lineup, this model blends haute horlogerie with unmistakable everyday wear all in a remarkably slim 40mm white gold case.

At just 8.42mm thick, it stays sleek thanks to the ultra-thin Caliber 240 Q movement, which somehow fits a perpetual calendar, moonphase, and 24-hour indicator into a case that still feels like a true Nautilus.

The signature porthole design remains intact, complete with a horizontally embossed sunburst blue dial, luminous white gold markers, and just enough visual complexity to draw you in without overwhelming the eye.

Price starts from $169,220

Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar

A modern tribute to a 1956 classic, the Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Complete Calendar cleverly blends vintage elegance with contemporary watchmaking.

It’s inspired by reference 6073, a historic Vacheron Constantin, and features a refined 40mm case available in 18K pink gold or stainless steel whose design echoes the brand’s iconic Maltese cross.

Its sector dial balances functionality with beauty, combining a sunburst hour track and opaline center and of course, a complete calendar complication with day, date, and month indicators, and a moon phase accurate for 122 years.

A blued pointer hand tracks the date which harmonizes perfectly with the midnight-blue moon disc. Through the sapphire case back, the self-winding Calibre 2460 QCL/1 is visible bearing the Poinçon de Genève motif and an open worked 22K gold rotor shaped like the Maltese cross.

Price starts from $27,400

Grand Seiko Hi Beat “White Birch” SLGH005

Grand Seiko has many brilliant 40mm watches in its portfolio that are all worth your time, but a model I’ve had a lot of hands-on time with in the past which I think about on the daily is the “White Birch” SLGH005.

Inspired by the pale trunks of birch trees near Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi studio, this watch’s textured silver dial is a masterclass in detail. With deep grooves and a rich metallic finish, it captures the quiet beauty of nature in a perfectly sized 40mm case.

Part of Grand Seiko’s Evolution 9 collection, it’s also well sized at just 11.7mm thick so it hits the sweet spot between sporty and dressy.

It comes with the Japanese watchmaker’s famous Zaratsu-polished lugs, brushed flanks, and a box-shaped sapphire crystal give the watch an elevated presence on the wrist while inside, the 9SA5 high-beat movement offers 80 hours of power, showcases a next-gen escapement and reveals stunning finishing through the sapphire case back.

Price starts from $9,300

Breitling Chronomat GMT 40

Since there’s no 40mm Navitimer, though if you’re a fan of pilot’s watches, the Navitimer 41 is well worth checking out, the Chronomat GMT 40 is my go-to from Breitling.

While the Chronomat traditionally meant “chronograph + automatic,” this model ditches the chrono for a more streamlined design that still feels very Breitling.

You get the iconic Rouleaux bracelet, the distinctive onion crown, and a tough-but-slim 40mm stainless steel case that wears comfortably with its 11.77mm thickness and 47.4mm lug-to-lug profile.

The GMT functionality is practical, especially for those juggling time zones, thanks to the caller-style GMT hand. It’s powered by the Breitling Caliber 32, a COSC-certified movement with 42 hours of reserve.

What I really appreciate is how this watch balances sportiness with subtlety. The 200m water resistance makes it capable, but the clean dial and understated rehaut-printed 24-hour scale give it versatility for work, travel, and weekend wear.

Price starts from $5,600

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is a welcome reminder that great watches don’t always need winding or fanfare to shine. On paper, it’s a sleek, solar-powered diver powered by the TH50-00 quartz movement that’s accurate, low-maintenance, and endlessly convenient.

On the wrist, it becomes even more compelling at just 9.97mm thick and 40mm wide so it wears effortlessly but sporty remains enough for daily adventure.

My favourite part of this model is the semi-translucent dial which reveals deep horizontal striations, crisp sunburst finishing, and soft accents that add just the right amount of personality.

Lume is bright, thoughtfully color-coded, and feels purpose-built rather than gimmicky. Even the steel case’s angular lines and polished facets start to shine the more time you spend with it.

Price starts from $2,500

IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

Next we have the IWC Portugieser Automatic 40, a model inspired by a 1930s commission from two Portuguese businessmen.

Even after all this time, it’s a design that has stayed remarkably true to its roots keeping the same slim bezel, Arabic numerals, feuille hands, and that signature recessed seconds subdial at six.

At 40mm wide and just 12.3mm thick, it wears with graceful presence, offering the refinement of a true dress watch but enough heft to feel substantial day-to-day.

Powered by IWC’s in-house Caliber 82200 with a 60-hour power reserve and Pellaton winding system, it pairs traditional aesthetics with thoroughly modern reliability.

The lacquered dials, available in soft tones like silver, green, salmon, and blue, bring surprising depth, especially under the double box sapphire crystal.

There’s also no date to clutter the dial, and no complication to distract from what this watch does best: deliver quiet luxury with heritage.

Price starts from $7,300

Longines Spirit 40mm

When it comes to Longines, the brand’s catalogue has often leaned on heritage. From the Heritage Military to the Avigation BigEye, the Saint-Imier-based manufacturer has long excelled at reaching into its archives to reintroduce classic references with contemporary mechanical upgrades all at really nice case sizes. But for me, one of their best vintage executions is the Longines Spirit 40mm.

This time-and-date model manages to be at once sharp and restrained, full of small, thoughtful details that elevate it from utilitarian tool to everyday staple.

Designed not as a one-for-one vintage revival but as a modern reinterpretation of the classic pilot’s watch, it combines its 40mm diameter with a 12.2mm thickness, stainless steel brushed case, oversized and onion-shaped crown and leather straps.

The dial, which is available in a range of shades, suits the overall look with a matte, subtly grained surface, applied Arabic numerals and a date window at 3 o’clock.

Price starts from $2,150

Chopard L.U.C XPS

Before we go into slightly more affordable 40mm watch territory, we couldn’t leave out the Chopard L.U.C XPS. It’s a timepiece that has redefined what an ultra-thin dress watch can be with a 40mm Lucent Steel case, crafted from an alloy with at least 80% recycled content, and a slim profile of just 7.20mm.

The case pairs with a dial in black, silver, or my personal favourite, green, with a sector layout, off-white markers and rhodium-plated dauphine hands that catch the light beautifully.

It’s a 40mm watch that doesn’t just look good but it also has the L.U.C 96.12-L calibre inside that is a COSC-certified chronometer, boasting a 65-hour power reserve and an automatic winding system driven by an ethical 22k gold micro-rotor.

Pair this with a smooth leather strap, and you get a versatile timepiece that effortlessly transitions from casual to formal settings.

Price starts from $11,800

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono

When most people think of 40mm chronographs, Hamilton might not be the first name that comes to mind, but the American Classic Intra-Matic Auto Chrono is a real gem.

Based on the brand’s 1968 Chronograph A and the slightly later Chrono-Matic, this 40mm release strikes a great balance between heritage styling and modern wearability.

If it were me, I’d head straight for the panda dial layout with its crisp and legible display that gives strong vintage energy without leaning into kitsch.

Under the hood is Hamilton’s H -31 movement (based on the Valjoux 7753), offering 60 hours of power reserve and smooth chronograph operation.

The 40mm stainless steel case is nicely proportioned, wide enough to feel sporty, but with a case shape that helps it sit more comfortably on the wrist than some thicker chronos out there.

Price starts from $2,395

Fears Brunswich 40

The Fears Brunswick 40 marks a confident evolution for the British watchmaker, building on the legacy of the original and popular 38mm model.

With a larger 40mm cushion-shaped case and a newly developed five-link bracelet, it strikes a perfect balance between sporty and elegant, something Fears calls “beach-to-boardroom”.

The polished bezel contrasts beautifully with the brushed stainless steel case, and domed sapphire crystal adds vintage charm.

Inside is the reliable Swiss ETA 2824-2 automatic movement, finished with Côtes de Genève and a custom rotor, though hidden behind a closed case back.

The collection features several core dials including Opaline Silver, Fears Blue, Flamingo Pink and Aurora (which is blue mother of pearl).

Several special editions are also available, including the Boutique Edition with a deep emerald green dial and the limited Odyssey Edition, inspired by explorer Angus Collins’ GBO challenge.

Prices start from $3,750

Nomos Tangomat GMT

Nomos is one of my all-time favorite watch brands. I’ve always loved Bauhaus-inspired design, and this German maker consistently nails the balance between minimalism and mechanical brilliance.

For a moment, I thought I’d have to skip Nomos in this list of 40mm watches, since I know they have plenty of 39mm and 41mm models, but nothing right on the 40mm mark… until I remembered the Nomos Tangomat GMT.

This quietly brilliant travel watch is an understated gem. At 40mm wide and just under 11mm thick, it wears larger than a standard Tangente thanks to the automatic DUW 5201 caliber and clever complication layout.

The watch tracks local and home time simultaneously, with 24 global time zones denoted by crisp airport codes. The dial is clean and silver-plated, paired with heat-blued hands and Nomos’ signature Glashütte finishing.

Price starts from $4,920

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

This is another of my favourite brands and a watch I own myself, in both the 35mm and 40mm sizes, so it’s safe to say the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 holds a special place in my collection.

If you’re drawn to integrated bracelet watches but not keen on spending Royal Oak money, this is arguably the best value-for-money option out there.

Inspired by Tissot’s 1978 Seastar, the PRX delivers 70s sport-luxury style with its barrel-shaped case, integrated steel bracelet, and stunning “Clous de Paris” textured dial.

Inside is equally impressive, housing the Swiss-made Powermatic 80 automatic movement boasting a whopping 80-hour power reserve and anti-magnetic Nivachron hairspring.

At 40mm, the case wears slim and refined at just 10.9mm thick, and with 100m water resistance, sapphire crystal, and a see-through case back, it punches well above its price tag.

Price starts from $775

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date is a 40mm watch that has truly stood the test of time. First introduced in 1938 for pilots, its distinctive oversized crown and central date pointer hand remain signature features to this day, all housed within a modest sized 40 mm stainless steel case. It also boasts domed sapphire crystal and a see-through case back.

Inside beats Oris’s Caliber 754 automatic movement offering 38 hours of power reserve and reliable precision. The straps come in a range of colours and metals including sustainably sourced leather or three-row link steel bracelets, just like the dials which can be ordered in timeless navy or black, or more unexpected and playful tones like mustard yellow, peachy pink, or gorgeous teal.

Price starts from $2,300

Farer Maze III GMT

Our next affordable 40mm watch comes from Farer and is named the Maze III GMT. As its name suggests, it’s a watch that’s now in its third generation and sports a slimmer, more wearable 40mm stainless steel case, curved “ski slope” lugs, and a box sapphire crystal that adds vintage character without bulk. It’s water resistant to 200 meters and features a screw-down crown, making it a true tool watch.

A pearlescent white tile pattern serves as the base for oversized black gloss markers and hands, packed with icy blue X1 Super-LumiNova for unmatched nighttime legibility.

The GMT hand pops in postbox red, working in harmony with the black and white sapphire bezel to let you track a second time zone at a glance. The movement elected is the Sellita SW330-2 made visible through an exhibition case back.

Price starts at $1,150

Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s

Another 40mm dive watch worth your time and money is the Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver’s. It’s a modern evolution of the 62MAS, Japan’s and Seiko’s very first dive watch.

Reimagined for today’s adventurers, this 40mm stainless steel diver blends vintage character with serious performance boasting a barrel-shaped case, curved lugs, and a mix of brushed and polished finishes to deliver classic tool-watch aesthetics.

Water resistance is what you’d expect from a Seiko diver, boosted to a professional-grade 300 meters, meeting ISO standards and reinforced by a screw-down crown and case back.

The coin-edged unidirectional bezel and curved sapphire crystal complete the rugged build. For the dial, you can choose from classic black, deep navy “Scuba Blue”, or a special “Tide Grey” anniversary edition with gold-tone accents.

Price starts from $1,300

Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic 40mm

Offering an impressive blend of sports elegance and affordability, the Citizen Tsuyosa Automatic 40mm stands out in the crowded integrated sports watch genre.

Its barrel-shaped stainless steel case features mostly matte, vertically brushed surfaces, complemented by a polished fixed bezel for a subtle contrast.

At just 11.7mm thick, it wears comfortably, while the integrated three-row bracelet with rounded links and folding clasp adds to the sleek profile.

Under the hood, the in-house Calibre 8210 automatic movement powers the watch, delivering a reliable 40-hour power reserve and 21,600 vibrations per hour.

A sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating protects the dial, which comes in an array of vibrant sunray-brushed colours from classic black and navy blue to bold green, yellow, and a fresh pastel blue. There are few 40mm automatic watches as high value as this one.

Price starts from $300

Orient Mako 40

40mm dive watches aren’t easy to come by, with most tipping the scales at 42mm or above but the Orient Mako 40 is one of the few – and also one of the most affordable.

The watch sports a sleek 40mm stainless steel case equipped with an unguarded screw-down crown and a clean dial layout with bold bar-shaped hour markers and luminous hands for easy reading underwater.

Powered by Orient’s in-house F6722 automatic movement, it offers a solid 40-hour power reserve, hand-winding, and hacking capabilities for a nice level of precision and reliability.

Water resistance is rated at 200 metres, making it suitable for serious diving activities and there’s even sapphire crystal glass to protect the dial which again is a rarity in a watch at this price point.

The dial is available in a striking range of colours from traditional navy and black to vibrant apricot, lilac and ruby red.

Price starts from $450

Timex Marlin Chronograph

Last but certainly not least in today’s rundown of the best 40mm watches, we’ve saved the most affordable for last: the Timex Marlin Chronograph.

This model taps into the much-loved “panda” dial style characterized by its silver sunray-brushed surface contrasted with black subdials.

It’s a design popularized by luxury icons like the Rolex Daytona and TAG Heuer Carrera but what makes Timex’s take so exciting is the price point. At just $209, it offers vintage chronograph charm without breaking the bank.

Housed in a polished 40mm stainless steel case, the Marlin Chronograph features a domed acrylic crystal and quartz-powered movement for reliable precision.

For the dial, a black tachymeter scale is added around the outer minute track for a sporty edge and retro-style black numerals and square markers are positioned at key hours to keep the dial clean and readable.

It also has 50 meters of water resistance and comes on a choice of a black leather strap or fine link bracelet.

Price starts from $209

Conclusion

If you asked me, 40mm might just be the perfect case size. It suits almost everyone; big enough to have presence, small enough to stay versatile, and always looks the part, whether you’re dressing up or down.

Sure, it might lean slightly oversized on some wrists and slightly compact on others, but that’s kind of the beauty of it: 40mm has an uncanny ability to just work.

And thankfully, for all of us who love that sweet spot, there’s no shortage of incredible 40mm watches out there. From haute horlogerie masterpieces in solid gold to everyday tool watches packed with tech, there’s truly something for everyone whatever your taste, lifestyle, or budget.

So whether you’re adding your first 40mm to the collection or just looking for the next great piece to wear on rotation, this list is a great place to start.