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Is the Rolex Submariner Still the Dive Watch to Beat?
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Few watches have achieved the status of the Rolex Submariner. If you think of a dive watch, this is the one that pops into your head. It’s the blueprint countless other brands have followed, and even today, many consider it the gold standard of the category.
Its design is instantly recognizable, its reputation is nearly untouchable, and thanks to a little help from James Bond, it has a pop culture presence that most watches can only dream of.
But the Rolex Submariner is not a cheap watch, nor is it easy to get hold of – at least, brand new. Yet, despite that, it remains one of the most talked-about dive watches ever. I’d say it’s the one watch I get asked about more than any other.
The questions are usually something like: “What’s the best affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner?” or “Is the Rolex Submariner actually worth it?”
If you’re on a tight budget, the Rolex Submariner probably isn’t for you. But if you’ve got some cash to spare and you’re after a durable, stylish, and premium dive watch, then you’re probably wondering if the Rolex Submariner is your best option.
If so, you’ve come to the right place because in this article, I’ll be reviewing the entire Rolex Submariner collection to find out if this is still the dive watch to beat.
A Quick History of the Rolex Submariner
Rolex was already making waves in water-resistant watches long before the Submariner was born. Back in 1926, Rolex introduced the Oyster case, a design still used today, which is an innovative, hermetically sealed case design that keeps water out from the components working hard inside.
To prove its effectiveness, Rolex strapped an Oyster watch onto the wrist of British swimmer Mercedes Gleitze during her attempt to swim the English Channel.
The watch survived the icy waters and emerged unscathed, giving Rolex an incredible marketing story that set the foundation for its reputation for durability and water resistance.
Over the next few decades, Rolex continued pushing the limits of waterproof technology, even attaching prototype watches to deep-sea submersibles to test their endurance at extreme depths. This obsession with performance eventually led to the creation of one of the most important dive watches of all time.
By the early 1950s, recreational diving was growing in popularity, thanks to innovations like Jacques Cousteau’s Aqua-Lung. Divers needed a reliable way to track their time underwater, and Rolex saw an opportunity. In 1953, they released the first-ever Rolex Submariner, reference 6204, boasting an unheard-of 100-meter water resistance.
This watch set the template for everything we associate with dive watches today. It came with a rotating bezel adorned with a 60-minute scale, high-contrast luminous markers, and a robust stainless steel case.
Not long after, Rolex upped the ante and improved the Submariner’s water resistance to 200 meters and introduced the now-iconic “Mercedes” hands for better legibility. The Submariner was quickly proving itself as the ultimate tool watch for divers.
Then, in 1962, something happened that would catapult the Rolex Submariner into mainstream culture: it landed on the wrist of none other than James Bond.
Sean Connery famously wore a Submariner 6538 in Dr. No, and just like that, the Submariner wasn’t just a tool for divers anymore but a symbol of adventure, sophistication, and style.
While Rolex kept refining the Submariner with technological upgrades like a stronger case and better lume, its newfound Hollywood status meant it was now appealing to a much broader audience. The Rolex Sub became no longer just about function but a statement piece, a watch associated with success and prestige.
By the 1970s, Rolex had introduced a version of the Submariner with a date function and a “Cyclops” magnifier over the date window, a feature that remains divisive among purists to this day.
Water resistance was improved to 300 meters in the late ‘80s, and by the 2000s, Rolex was incorporating high-tech materials like ceramic bezels and Parachrom hairsprings for even greater durability and precision.
Despite all these advancements, one thing has remained constant, and that’s that the Submariner has never strayed far from its original design. That’s part of its magic.
A modern Submariner still looks unmistakably like the watch that debuted in the ‘50s, and to me, that’s a simple testament to how perfect the original formula was.
With nearly 70 years of history behind it, the Rolex Submariner remains one of the most desirable watches in the world. But with so many alternatives available today, including ones that are just a fraction of the price, is it still the best dive watch you can buy?
The Case
The Rolex Submariner’s case is one of the most meticulously engineered components of this legendary dive watch. As its history attests, it’s been designed to withstand the demands of deep-sea exploration and yet still maintain the elegance and refinement expected of a Rolex (and James Bond).
As of March 2025, the Submariner collection consists of eight core models, all featuring a 41mm case size and available in a selection of materials, including Oystersteel, Rolesor (a combination of steel and gold), and solid 18ct yellow gold.
Each model is paired with either a black, blue, or green Cerachrom bezel, offering a variety of aesthetic choices while maintaining the fundamental essence of the Submariner’s DNA.
The most notable point of interest is Rolex’s Oyster case design, which has been at the forefront of waterproof watch technology since 1926. In the Submariner, this has been pushed to a water resistance of up to 300 meters or 1,000 feet, something that is cleverly achieved through an expertly crafted monobloc middle case, formed from a solid piece of Oystersteel.
This material alone deserves an entire blog, but in short, it’s an advanced alloy that belongs to the 904L steel family. It boasts exceptional corrosion resistance and a wonderful polished appearance even under the harshest conditions.
In addition to the steel models, the Rolex Submariner is also available in luxurious solid 18ct yellow gold, 18ct white gold, and Rolesor, which harmoniously blends the robustness of steel with the luster of gold. The gold used in these models is produced entirely in Rolex’s own foundry to ensure high levels of quality and a distinctive, rich radiance.
Another key feature of the Rolex Submariner’s design is its Triplock winding crown, which plays a crucial role in ensuring the watch’s water resistance. Introduced in 1970, this system incorporates three separate waterproof zones that protect the movement from moisture and external elements.
The crown screws down securely against the case, forming an impenetrable seal that can withstand the pressures of deep-sea diving.
Additionally, the Submariner’s case features crown guards that are integrated into the middle case to protect the winding crown from impact. This design not only enhances durability but also contributes to the watch’s distinctive profile.
The unidirectional rotatable bezel is another hallmark, providing divers with an essential tool for tracking immersion time. Each one is crafted from Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom, a high-tech ceramic material that ensures the bezel insert is virtually scratchproof and impervious to fading from UV exposure.
The engraved 60-minute graduations are coated with platinum or gold via Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) to ensure visibility and longevity, and the bezel’s notched edge allows for an easy grip.
Within the current collection, each of the eight Rolex Submariner models offers a slightly different take on the iconic design.
The all-steel Submariner models include the reference 124060, a classic no-date variant with a black dial and black bezel, as well as the 126610LN, which features a date function while maintaining the same colour scheme.
The reference 126610LV brings a bold twist, pairing a black dial with a vibrant green bezel, which is a nod to the “Kermit” Submariner of the past.
For those seeking a combination of steel and gold, the Rolesor models are an elegant alternative. The reference 126613LB presents a striking blue dial with a matching blue bezel, while the 126613LN opts for a more traditional black-on-black aesthetic accented by 18ct yellow gold.
In the solid gold category, the Submariner is available in 18ct yellow gold with two variations: the reference 126618LB, which features a rich blue dial and bezel, and the 126618LN, which offers a sleek black dial and bezel combination.
Finally, for those who prefer the exclusivity of white gold, the reference 126619LB pairs a black dial with a contrasting blue bezel.
The Dial
The Rolex Submariner dial is all about function. Everything on it serves a purpose, and that purpose is predominantly readability, whether you’re deep underwater or just glancing at your wrist in everyday life. It’s simple, straightforward, and very Rolex.
A big part of what makes it so easy to read is the Chromalight display. Rolex’s proprietary luminescent material glows an intense blue in the dark, giving divers a clear view of the time no matter the lighting conditions. In daylight, it’s a bright white that stands out crisply against the dial.
Applied to the hands, hour markers, and the little triangle at the zero position on the bezel, Chromalight ensures everything you need to see is visible at a glance.
Speaking of hour markers, they follow the same design Rolex has used on its dive watches for decades. Again, they are simple, formed in geometric shapes of circles, rectangles, and a triangle at 12 o’clock. The reason for this is to make reading the time quick and intuitive.
The markers are all outlined in white gold to prevent tarnishing and to help keep the watch looking sharp for years.
Then there are the Mercedes hands, which is another signature Rolex detail. The hour hand has a distinctive circular section near its tip, which does look a bit like the Mercedes-Benz logo, though that’s probably just a coincidence.
More importantly, it provides plenty of space for lume, making it easy to differentiate from the long, sword-like minute hand. The seconds hand also has its own luminous dot.
Rolex switched to glossy dials in the mid-1980s, and that’s what you’ll find on all current Submariner models.
The deep black or rich blue finish gives the dial a luxurious, almost liquid-like appearance, adding a bit of refinement to what is, at its core, a serious tool watch. It also contrasts nicely with the white text and markers, ensuring the dial remains highly legible.
Finally, one other small but interesting distinction in the lineup is the presence (or absence) of a date function. Most modern Submariners come with a date window at 3 o’clock, complete with the signature Cyclops magnifying lens.
But if you want the cleanest, most traditional look, there is a single reference 124060 with no date or magnifying glass. It’s the purist’s choice, and it sticks closely to the original Submariner formula from the 1950s.
The Movement
Inside the Rolex Submariner ticks the in-house Caliber 3235. It’s an automatic winding movement that essentially matches the design DNA of the case and dial: it can handle demanding conditions.
One of its most notable features is the Chronergy escapement. Rolex reworked this critical component to be 15% more efficient back in 2015, thanks to thinner pallet stones and a double escape wheel with specially cut teeth.
Made from nickel-phosphorus, it’s also highly resistant to magnetic fields, which is increasingly important in a world filled with electronic devices that can interfere with mechanical movements.
Another key feature is the power reserve. By using a nice long mainspring housed in a barrel with thinner walls, Rolex has equipped the Submariner with a power reserve of 70 hours. That means you can take the watch off for an entire weekend and come back to it on Monday without needing to reset the time.
The movement also features Rolex’s Paraflex shock absorbers for improved durability, along with a blue Parachrom hairspring, which is both highly resistant to shocks and unaffected by temperature changes.
Finally, we can’t forget the accuracy. Like so many of Rolex’s watches, the Submariner is a Superlative Chronometer. This means it meets Rolex’s stringent precision standards, which go beyond the official COSC certification (which is already impressive enough).
COSC allows for a deviation of -4/+6 seconds per day, while Rolex tightens this to an impressive -2 to +2 seconds per day after casing.
The Strap
The Submariner wouldn’t be the same without its robust and functional Oyster bracelet. It’s a design that has been a Rolex staple for more than seven decades, evolving over the years while always maintaining its signature three-piece link structure.
Originally inspired by the Bonklip-style bracelets of the 1930s and 1940s, Rolex officially patented the Oyster bracelet in 1947, and it has been a defining feature of the brand’s sports watches ever since.
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Today’s Submariner bracelet is refined and durable, featuring solid links that give it a reassuring weight and feel on the wrist. But function is just as important as form.
Rolex equips the Submariner’s bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp to prevent accidental opening, ensuring that the watch stays securely fastened no matter the situation you’re in.
There’s also the Glidelock extension system, which is a clever innovation that allows for micro-adjustments in 2mm increments, up to 20mm in total.
No tools are needed, so it’s incredibly useful for those that find themselves needing to make adjustments on the go, whether it’s to expand it when you get hot or placing it over a wetsuit.
On-Wrist Experience
On the wrist, the Rolex Submariner strikes an impressive balance between presence and comfort. With a 41mm case diameter and a thickness of 12.5mm, it has enough heft to feel substantial but isn’t overbearing in any way.
In Oystersteel, Rolesor, or solid 18k gold, the watch carries a reassuring weight, and it’s a nice reminder that this is a serious tool watch that will live up to its durable reputation.
I have no doubt some will find it heavier than other luxury watches, but that’s part of its appeal. It feels strong and solid, which is what you want in a watch like this.
Despite its robustness, the Submariner is still incredibly comfortable. The way the case curves down and the smooth transition to the Oyster bracelet means it sits well on a variety of wrist sizes, typically best suited for those with wrists around 6.5 inches and up.
Price & Availability
So, how much does the Rolex Submariner cost? As of March 2025, the diver’s model starts at $9,200 for the no-date version (Ref. 12406), and from there, prices rise as you add the date complication and precious metals.
The Submariner Date in Oystersteel costs $10,250, while two-tone Rolesor models push the price higher. If you’re after a full 18k gold version, be prepared to spend well over $40,000.
Availability, however, is another story. Like most Rolex models, the Submariner is notoriously difficult to buy new. Waiting lists at authorized dealers are long, with some people waiting for years just to get the call. Because of this, many are understandably turning to the pre-owned market.
Pre-owned prices tend to sit between $12,000 and $15,000, depending on condition, age, and model. That’s more than retail, but it’s the reality of buying Rolex in today’s market.
The Submariner is one of those rare watches that not only holds its value but often appreciates over time. If you’re not set on buying brand new, it’s worth checking out reputable pre-owned specialists like Exquisite Timepieces to explore your options.
Conclusion
If you were going to ask me, then yes, I do think the Rolex Submariner is still the one dive watch to beat. Sure, there are plenty of fantastic alternatives out there, some cheaper, some easier to buy, but none quite have the same set of specs, heritage, and legacy as the Submariner.
After all these years, the Submariner still feels worth it. It’s a watch you’ll never regret owning, one that collectors keep coming back to, and one that will still look just as good decades from now. Is it the only dive watch that matters? Of course not. But is it one of the best? Yeah, I’d say so.
About Exquisite Timepieces
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