The Swiss have had hundreds of years to perfect their craft, producing elite timepieces for as long as people have worn watches, often being revered as the beating heart of the watch industry.
Pristine materials, flawless, innovative movements, and unique designs are a few characteristics the Swiss implement into their pieces, with each dripping with life and intricacy that cause them to come alive on your wrist.
The details of the pieces vary, but these watches are technical innovations that allow the wearer to find a variant of any kind to suit their desires.
There are countless specimens to choose from, but before we take a closer look at the pieces themselves, let’s study the rich history of how the Swiss came to produce so many electrifying pieces.
History of Swiss Watches
To understand the history of Swiss watches, we have to take a look at the Reformation (you know, when Martin Luther nailed the 95 Theses on the wall?) The Reformation ignited intense, violent religious revolutions and wars with Germany at the center. But why is Germany so important?
The uncertainty of the war dampened the productivity of French and German watchmaking, which, at the time, was the primary supplier of watches around Europe since they were the original creators. Switzerland already had a long history of watchmaking, and it also had a reputation for remaining neutral during times of war.
Some of the French Huguenot watchmakers fled their country and settled in Switzerland, where they continued to work and perfect their craft in peace.
As more influential watchmakers came pouring in, they began to settle in Geneva, eventually transforming the Swiss watchmaking methods and blending different ideas and different materials to give us the unique aesthetic of Swiss watches as we know them today.
Top 20 Best Swiss Watches
There have been a lot of Swiss watches over the years, and some look very similar, making it quite confusing to decide what best suits your style. When you make the financial commitment to purchase high-quality watches such as these, you want to be sure you’re getting the most out of your piece.
Thankfully, we’ve narrowed down 20 of the best Swiss watches so that you know exactly what to look for and how to find a brand that suits you.
Rolex Datejust 36 (ref. 126234)
When Rolex first introduced its 36mm Oystersteel beauty, it was the first automatic wristwatch with a jumping date complication displayed in the dial. It set the standard for how a date display should function, inspiring countless other pieces to follow the same design. The bracelet is made of the same material, using jubilee, five-piece links, and a folding oyster clasp to maximize comfort.
The Bezel is fluted and smooth with exquisite polishing, complementing the stainless steel case perfectly. Multiple movements have been used to power the Datejust 36, but it has always featured a self-winding caliber. The frequency reaches 28,800 vph with a balance bridge and Rolex’s Parachrom hairspring. It also has a water resistance of 100m.
The Rolex Datejust 36 comes with a retail price of $9,250.
The Seamaster Diver 300m has embraced a heritage that it has created, undergoing countless updates to ensure it maintains its reputation as one of the most influential pieces on the market. This 42mm model is crafted with stainless steel with a deep black aluminum bezel, which matches the wave-pattern dial beautifully.
It features a self-winding movement with a power reserve of 55 hours, and the water resistance comes in at 300m, living up to that Seamaster title. The milanese-style bracelet is forged from the same steel as the case with a foldover clasp, keeping the same aesthetic across every feature, giving the wearer a dark, minimalist, and utilitarian look.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M costs $6,500.
Tudor Black Bay 58 (ref. M79030n-0001)
The Black Bay is one of Tudor’s most iconic pieces, often being the first one to come to mind when you see the brand’s logo. It is a beautiful, stainless steel powerhouse whose aesthetical prowess is only rivaled by its detailed intricacy. The case measures 39mm with a polished and satin finish, with a thickness of 11.9mm and a lug-to-lug of around 48mm.
Powered by a Calibre MT5402 COSC, the self-winding mechanical movement features a bidirectional rotor system and has a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The Black Bay bezel is arguably the highlight of the piece as it is unidirectional, meaning that you can rotate it in any direction you wish. It’s colored in matte black and is domed, adding more curves to the already curvy watch.
The Tudor Black Bay 58 costs $4,175.
Patek Philippe Calatrava (ref. 5227J)
Dubbed by Patek as “the very essence of the round wristwatch,” the Calatrava is truly elegant. It has a subtle charm, with each curve complementing the other and a color that implements its sly hand, even if it’s not the boldest piece on the market. The case is yellow gold measuring in at 39mm.
The strap comes in shiny alligator leather with square scales colored chocolate brown, and the dial is lacquered with ivory, with gold applied to the hour markers to reinforce the elegant aesthetic. The Calatrava from Patek Philippe comes with a retail price of $41,710.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph (ref. 26622CE.OO.D002CA.01)
The case, bezel, push-pieces, and crown on the Royal Oak Offshore by Audemars Piguet are all made of black ceramic giving it a sleek, smooth texture. The case measures 43mm across with a thickness of 15.5mm and a water resistance of 100m. The dial has a luminescent coating and compliments the rest of the aesthetic. The iconic Royal Oak Offshore hands are made of white gold.
The rubber strap comes with a titanium AP folding clasp. This piece also comes with an additional black alligator strap. It is a self-winding flying tourbillon with a power reserve of 65 hours, which beats at 21,600 vph.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Tourbillon Chronograph is a limited edition watch requiring an appointment to determine the price.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time (ref. 7920V/210A-B546)
This 18k pink gold watch features a dual time zone with a day and night indicator and a date hand, which is quite a notable feature when comparing it to other watches on this list. Its diameter measures 41mm with a thickness of 12mm, making it a little bit larger than watches we have seen before. The transparent sapphire crystal case-back allows you to view the in-house caliber 5110 DT that powers the watch.
The dial is a rich green with a sunburst-finished base. The internal minute track is circular, and the external track is velvet-finished.
The date window is at the 6 o’clock, and the red 18k dual-time hands fit perfectly with this elegant aesthetic. The Overseas Dual Time is truly a visual masterpiece that radiates a luxurious energy, which justifies its $75,500 retail price.
The Navitimer was originally developed to help pilots perform all necessary flight calculations while in the air. Now, it has become a staple of the Breitling brand as one of their most desired and aesthetically pleasing pieces. It is a stainless steel watch measuring 41mm with a thickness of 13.6 mm, making it ever so larger than the Vacheron watch from earlier. The bezel is bidirectional with a slide rule. The crystal is a cambered sapphire, and it is anti reflective on both sides.
The self-winding mechanical Breitling 01 movement powers the piece, providing it with a power reserve of 70 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph with a whopping 47 jewels. The strap is made from alligator leather, and it is a striking blue, which pairs nicely with the rest of the design.
The Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 costs $16,200.
Cartier Tank Must Large
The Cartier tank is a slick, subtle, shiny piece made of stainless steel that measures 41mm. Like most Cartier pieces, it is a square watch with square glass. While it measures fairly large, it has a sleek design with elegant curves that comfortably fit your wrist.
It is a self-winding mechanical watch with blue, sword-shaped hands. The dial has an off-white tone, and the signature Cartier Roman numerals are bold, black, and brilliant.
The Cartier Tank Must costs $5,000.
IWC Mark XX (ref. IW328201)
The Mark XX comes in a 40mm stainless steel case. The case back is closed, displaying the IWC logo on the back of the watch. The date window sits at 3 o’clock, and the dial is a bold navy blue. The white minute indices look nice on the backdrop and the elegant hands are finely polished and work wonders on the aesthetic.
The IWC 32111 Calibre powers the watch, giving it a power reserve of 120 hours. It beats at 28,800 vph and is made up of 21 jewels. It comes with a wide variety of straps. In my opinion, the best one is a nice black calfskin leather that fits well with the other features of the piece.
Made from a smooth ceramic, the Bathyscaphe case is 43.6mm in diameter. The strap and dial are both a rich navy blue, which gives the piece a subtle flare and highlights the beautiful ceramic. The gradient sunburst dials are quite large, displaying Super-LumiNova black indexes that light up in dark places.
The open case-back features a sapphire crystal, allowing a full view of the movement. The Caliber 1315 automatically powers the watch, giving it a 120-hour power reserve and a smooth 4Hz frequency. This movement comes equipped with an antimagnetic silicon balance spring and a black 18k gold oscillating weight. I love the dark beauty of this watch; it pairs nicely with any formal attire.
Zenith Chronomaster Original El Primero 38mm (ref. 03.3200.3600/69.M3200)
The casing is crafted from 38mm of bright, stainless steel with the same measurements and proportions as another Zenith piece, the A386. The dial is a beautiful white matte, featuring three different colored counters, all in their own unique shade, contrasting each other quite elegantly and rounding out the indices quite nicely.
El Primero movement powers this piece, operating at a very comfortable frequency of 36,000 vph and a power reserve of 60 hours. This high-frequency chronograph movement is the culmination of over 50 years of dedication to mastering the intricacies of the El Primero Calibre.
The Zenith Chronomaster Original El Primero 38mm costs $10,300.
Breguet Type 20 Flyback Chronograph (ref. 2067ST/92/3WU)
The Type XX from Breguet is a 42mm timepiece that follows the footsteps of similar watches from the 1950s and 60s. It is made of stainless steel with a sapphire case back, and the dial is jet-black with numerous time indicators and indices with Arabic numerals coated with ivory luminescence.
The strap is made of calf textile leather with an ardillon, stainless steel buckle. The Calibre 728 powers the piece with a power reserve of 60 hours and a frequency of 5 Hz. It is a bidirectional automatic watch with a flat silicon spiral and inverted silicon anchor.
The Breguet Type 20 Flyback Chronograph costs $19,100.
Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra Limited Edition (ref. CH-5023-BRSI)
The Two Terra Limited is a very unique-looking watch. The first thing you’ll notice is that the dial mimics the rugged beauty of the earth’s terrain. It’s a rough, light brown color, with extremely detailed texturing to give it a grainy feel. The case is sleek and silver, measuring 40mm, and it aims to deliver a tactile experience on the wrist.
Chronoswiss’ newly manufactured C.6000 powers the piece, distinguished by its ruthenium plating. It delivers 15 hours of power reserve to the watch, and the primary aim of Chronoswiss, at the moment, is to implement this complex moveset into more timepieces.
The Chronoswiss Strike Two Terra Limited Edition (ref. CH-5023-BRSI) costs $10,800.
Glashütte Original SeaQ Blue Dial 39.5mm on Bracelet (ref. 1-39-11-09-81-70)
The Glashütte Original Sea Q was designed to adapt to changes in water pressure during a deep dive. The water resistance measures 200m and the watch is fitted with a unidirectional rotating bezel with scratch-resistant inlay.
The case is made of 39.5mm of stainless steel, with an intense blue dial to give it a striking look and match the feel of the deep seas it will traverse. The case features vertically brushed finishing and can come with either a sapphire crystal case back or a stainless steel case back.
It has an automatic movement, coming directly from Glashütte Original. Its power reserve totals 40 hours, and its frequency reaches 28,800 vph. There is a fine adjustment of the swan neck with beveled edges and polished steel parts, and it also comes with a skeletonized rotor with a double-G symbol.
The Glashütte Original SeaQ costs $10,600.
Hublot Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic 44mm (ref. 421.OM.1180.RX)
The Big Bang Unico King Gold Ceramic, as the name suggests, is made with polished and satin-finished 18k king gold. The case measures 44mm and is striking, with the bezel complimenting the gold with its black ceramic and titanium screws. It has a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and features 100m of water resistance.
Unico has developed its own automatic chronograph movement with the aim of being different and unique. The “open heart style” reveals the design, featuring a double coupling system and column wheel, as well as a 72-hour power reserve. It has a whopping 354 components that have been simplified as much as possible to give the wearer a smooth movement.
The Hublot Big Bang King Gold Ceramic costs $41,600.
Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase Date 40mm (ref. FC-716S3H6)
This watch is designed for everyday wear. It features a 40mm stainless steel case that has been polished to perfection. The dial is a sleek silver that compliments the shape of the case, as well as the color. It has a sunray finish with diamond cut indexes, and it is a stunner. The case effortlessly bleeds into the dial, which gives it a very simple look but one that is elegant and subtle in its own right.
It is an automatic watch with an FC-716 powering the movement. The power reserve lasts up to 72 hours, and it beats at a frequency of 28,800 vph. It also comes equipped with 26 jewels to ensure flawless precision.
The Frederique Constant Classic Moonphase costs $3,895.
Oris ProPilot X Kermit Edition (ref. 01 400 7778 7157-Set)
Made of titanium, the Oris ProPilot X Kermit measures 39mm in diameter. The dial is bright green, and on the date window—as the name suggests—Kermit the frog can be seen on every first day of the month. The purpose of this is to encourage everyone to slow down and focus on the joyful things in life. A simple reminder, one that can be hard to remember at times.
The Kermit is powered by the Calibre 400. This automatic movement has a five-day power reserve with very high accuracy. It is tremendously reliable with anti-magnetism to deliver flawless timekeeping.
The Oris ProPilot X Kermit costs $5,900.
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Titanium (ref. L3.802.1.53.6)
The Spirit Zulu time was made to capture Longines century-old expertise in multiple time zones. It is a round, 39mm titanium watch with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and an anti-reflective coating. It has a bi-directional rotating bezel, and the dial is stark black with gold numerals and indices that pair nicely with the flawless titanium.
It is an automatic watch with a Caliber L844.4 powering the self-winding movement. It beats at 25,200 vibrations an hour with a monocrystalline silicon balance spring, which delivers a power reserve of 72 hours.
The Longines Zulu Time costs $4,275.
Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic Chronograph (ref. H38429730)
The American Classic Intra-Matic features a mechanical chronograph movement with a 60-hour power reserve. It measures time with modern precision while keeping the charm of the old-style Hamilton watches that their core audience is so familiar with.
The case is made of stainless steel, and the dial is sharp black with two different time indicators that give a precise level of detail to the piece.
The indices are small, and the hands are elegant, mimicking the classic feel of original Hamiltons while incorporating that modern touch.
The strap is a smooth, black cow leather with a pin buckle that fits flawlessly around the wrist, optimizing comfort. This is a very traditional piece that doesn’t lean too heavily into an elegant aesthetic but still manages to look quite luxurious while staying true to its own style.
Rounding out the list is the Tissot PRX Chronograph. It measures 42mm of stainless steel and features a satin finish.
It has a sleek, angular form mimicking the sports watch style of the 70s while also keeping true to the modern era of watchmaking. The dial is a simple yet beautiful blue that gives the appearance of calm waves amidst the ocean. Quite the peaceful aesthetic.
Inside, the ETA/Valjoux caliber A05.H31 automatic movement offers a power reserve of 60 hours, with 12-hour, 30-minute, and 60-second counters that assist in keeping the most accurate time possible while moving smoothly and efficiently.
The PRX Chronograph costs $1,895.
Conclusion
So there you have it. Swiss watches come in many shapes and sizes, making it hard to distinguish one specific shape that sets Swiss making apart from any run-of-the-mill designers. All of these pieces do have one thing in common.
However, they are crafted with an unmistakable amount of detail, with each one telling its own story and flawlessly embodying the brand it derives from.
Swiss watches are some of my favorites in the market. I find that they are the most powerful and the most elegant, and, in some cases, they are much more affordable than opposing designs, which will always earn you a few extra points in my book.
I hope I have helped you narrow down what best fits your style. The differences in these pieces can be overwhelming at first, but I promise, as you become more accustomed to the watch world, you will find a piece, Swiss-made or not, to suit your every need
Grand Seiko. When you read that name, quite a few thoughts come to mind, no doubt. Some of you may be thinking, “Aren’t those just budget Rolex’s?” or, “Oh yeah, I picked up a Grand Seiko because I don’t have a Rolex store near me.”
Needless to say, Grand Seiko is a brand that flies under the radar of a casual watch fan whose only exposure to the watch world has been through the “Rolex lens,” as I like to call it.
I’ve read countless articles of people going to buy a watch, seeing a “Seiko” instead of a Rolex, and either abandoning their purchase altogether or settling for a watch of “lesser quality.”
Grand Seiko is a brand that has been pumping out gorgeous, breathtaking pieces since 1960 and has only improved with every year they have been producing.
Their rich Japanese history has been the primary influence they translate into their art, with pieces often being embodiments of Japanese seasons or cultural ideas. In this brief historical analysis, we will discover whether or not Grand Seiko is worth it and, if they are, why they are so esteemed.
Grand Seiko Watches in the Past
Grand Seiko was founded in 1960 with the single goal of excelling in the watch market and providing unique pieces that demonstrate precision, durability, and undeniable beauty.
The first Grand Seiko was a major advancement. With the all-new caliber 3180 at the center of the piece, the watch was able to hold an accuracy of +12 to -3 seconds a day and offered a power reserve of 45 hours.
In 1964, the Grand Seiko Self-Dater was introduced. This watch was crafted with the aim of being as practical as possible. Equipped with a calendar function and improved water resistance of up to 50 meters, Grand Seiko combined practicality and style, which they would go on to become masters of.
Throughout the ’60s, as the Grand Seiko collection grew, many new calibers were introduced. In 1967, Grand Seiko released the 62GS, the first automatic Grand Seiko, followed in 1968 by the automatic 10 beat 61GS and the manual 10 beat 4SGS.
The age demanded new possibilities, and the evolution of technology provided them, making watch accuracy an obsession among enthusiasts. This allowed Grand Seiko to set the stage and become one of the most influential brands when it came to designing new movements. In 1968, they won the prize as the best mechanical watches in the Geneva Observatory competition, communicating to the world that Grand Seiko was not a brand to be taken lightly.
In 1988, the first Grand Seiko quartz watch, the 95GS, was released, exceeding the performance of regular quartz watches. Manufacturing every component in-house, using quartz crystals grown in its own facilities, the Grand Seiko team was able to select only the best oscillators that were tested and proved to be the most superior performing engines, ensuring that they could produce movements with the highest possible accuracy.
Then, in 1993, they produced the “idea” quartz watch. The Caliber 9F83 was completed, incorporating four key innovations: the Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism, the Twin Pulse Control System, the Instant Date Change Mechanism, and the protective shield construction. Each of these ingredients embodied Grand Seiko’s primary goal, which was to create a piece that captured the essential qualities of a wristwatch.
Grand Seiko Watches Today
In 2020, Grand Seiko embarked on a new journey, thrusting itself into an all-new era. Kicking off this expedition, two new movements were released.
The Caliber 9SA5 is a new 10-beat movement delivering high precision and high power reserve, with three key innovations serving as the foundation. The Grand Seiko free-sprung balance, a Dual Impulse Escapement, and an over-coil all work in unison to give us that coherent precision Grand Seiko had familiarized us with.
Then, the second movement was the Caliber 9RA5, which took the Spring Drive into a new age, enhancing its accuracy and extending the power reserve.
Both of these movements are slimmer, fitting more comfortably inside the watches, and both have been refined to perfection, dubbing Grand Seiko as one of the most innovative movement designers on the market.
In 2023, Grand Seiko released an automatic-winding chronograph operating at a three-day power reserve with timekeeping precision at 10 beats per second.
They named it the Tentagraph, making it the brand’s first form of chronograph movement. The SLGC001 is powered by the Tentagraph movement, making it Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph model.
Then, in 2024, Grand Seiko’s new Caliber 9SA4 was released, making it the first manually wound, 10-beat mechanical movement that the company has produced in over 50 years.
It powers the new line of dress watches in the Evolution 9 style, which are engineered for the most satisfying sound while winding, ensuring that the watch moves with extraordinary efficiency, all while maintaining a power reserve of 80 hours.
What Makes Grand Seiko Watches Stand Out?
Looking back at its history, we can see that Grand Seiko is a brand that prides itself on designing its pieces with the most precision possible. They have maintained their flawless reputation over the years by delivering time and time again on promises they have made, not only impressing their audience but exceeding their expectations.
Gorgeous pieces are one thing. Any run-of-the-mill watch company can produce a semi-decent-looking piece. But where Grand Seiko stands out is what’s on the inside of their watches.
Ever since the company was born in 1960, they have always been pushing the limits on what is truly possible with the technology they are given, but the most impressive part is once they have reached their limit with what they have, they will go above and beyond to create a new limit, new technology, and a new line to be surpassed.
The greatest praise I can give Grand Seiko is that they are original. Often unapologetic in the way they design watches, Grand Seiko delivers us truly unique pieces that are impossible to find elsewhere.
Let’s not gloss over the aesthetic importance, either. While the brand’s highlight is the original movements, their casing and dial designs are also virtually flawless. Often incorporating cultural themes, the Japanese designers at Grand Seiko engulf their pieces in rich history and stoic symbolism that embody Japan’s very nature.
For example, the GMT Twenty-Four Seasons collection gives us a unique perspective on how Japanese society views its seasons, with Grand Seiko giving us a beautiful piece to represent each stage of the year.
While Grand Seiko might not be as recognized as a brand like Rolex, that doesn’t mean that their pieces are any less unique. Some are often of much higher quality than Rolex (though you didn’t hear that from me), and most importantly, Rolex is much more expensive. So there’s that.
Should you get a Grand Seiko Watch?
In short, absolutely. For these kinds of watches with this kind of quality, Grand Seiko is priced relatively well. But let’s assume the budget is not an issue. Grand Seiko designs each piece with impeccable character.
Seriously, it’s hard to find something like this anywhere else. From an outside perspective, pieces from the Evolution 9 and the Elegance collections (in my opinion) are the most aesthetically pleasing, but pieces like the SBGJ237 and the SBGE277 from the sports collection catch my eye as well, while offering more utility and durability, being that they are made of stronger materials and are classified as sports watches.
It’s safe to assume that any Grand Seiko piece you choose will have a flawless interior because, looking back on their innovative history, they have proven to pride themselves on movement and precision above all else.
I can imagine any luxury watch enthusiast being a fan of Grand Seiko, as well as someone who is just getting into the watch game and simply wants an admirable piece. Of course, if you are new, start cheap and shop for what you know.
Grand Seiko provides a very accessible entry point into the watch game and their collection. Browse their website and do adequate research to ensure you aren’t getting anything that will cause you to become overwhelmed.
I think the sports collection is a good place to start because these kinds of pieces are specifically engineered to withstand any potential damage, and they also look exquisite.
The sports collection consists of more traditional pieces designed to be worn on the go, so you wouldn’t need to worry about where and where it would not be appropriate to have on.
Grand Seiko comes highly recommended. There has yet to be a piece I have been disappointed with, and it only seems that with each passing year, their repertoire grows wider, and their quality improves. I trust a company that is in it for the love of the craft.
Taking the extra time to ensure that what you are providing to the market is the best it can be will always earn you a resounding recommendation because you respect your buyers more than you respect the dollar.
That’s something that will gravitate consumers anywhere you go, but to an industry that revolves so much around precision and attention to detail, that is an unmistakable quality that is necessary for anyone you buy from.
Conclusion
Grand Seiko is one of the only companies that I will recommend more and more as the years pass. Not because I know any future plans or have the inside scoop on any record-breaking ideas, but because I can look back at where they came from and tremendously respect where they are now.
History alludes to the inevitable improvement of their brand because of the choices they make and the respect they have for the art of watchmaking.
I say this all the time, but I am excited about the direction that Grand Seiko is going and listen every day for the announcement of something new because I know that whatever they produce will undoubtedly be one of the best things the industry sees all year.
So, those of you on the fence about pulling the trigger, I say do it. It’s not every day a brand like Grand Seiko comes along. I promise, if you know what you want, Grand Seiko can provide.
When declaring something “locked in the past.” it may come across as an insult to the brand, seemingly associated with stubborn characteristics like the unwillingness to change and adapt to the new market.
This is a fair criticism for many brands that refuse to shake things up and develop something new. Rolex, however, takes the phrase “locked in the past” and flips it on its head. The 1908 relishes in the past, thriving off of old Rolex fans’ nostalgia for pieces like the Cellini while demonstrating its own aesthetic that seems to blend different styles from different timelines.
Rolex fans remember the original release of the 1908s, but this platinum version that we’re talking about today is something quite different from those pieces we reminisce upon so fondly. The Perpetual 1908 in Platinum is exactly what the 1908 line needed from the start.
Elegance doesn’t even begin to describe it. Oozing with luxury and dripping with glamor, the platinum version takes an already gorgeous frame and improves the case, dial, and strap while keeping true to the 1908 origins. It’s truly an anomaly, and as we examine the details and design choices, you will see just how special this piece is.
History
The Perpetual 1908 collection was first introduced in 2023 in an attempt to enhance the traditional techniques that have been used by incorporating modern advancements. Those who love historical craftsmanship will undoubtedly be drawn to the 1908 as it emulates the classic feel of old-timey watchmaking that made us fall in love with the craft in the first place.
The Perpetual 1908 is a high-end model that seeks to exemplify the technical prowess ushered in by the modern age while keeping true to the legacy of innovation Rolex has been known for since the birth of the company.
The perpetual collection is named after Rolex’s self-winding mechanism, the perpetual rotor first introduced in 1931. This mechanism enabled automatic winding by simply moving your wrist, eliminating the need for manual winding and enhancing the watch’s precision.
The stage has now been set for the platinum version to steal all of the attention. In 2024, it hit the market and, as you would expect, was met with immediate praise. But why exactly? I mean, if you’re skeptical about a Rolex watch, then you must know nothing about the craft.
Arguably the most well-respected watchmakers on the market, Rolex engineers every watch to perfection, but what makes this one so special? Sounds to me like we need a deep dive into what makes this watch tick—physically and metaphorically—and study the different ways it stands out from its competitors and counterparts.
Case
The Rolex Perpetual 1908 features a 39mm case that has slowly become popular due to its curves and edges. Crafted with 950 platinum, the case drips with a luminescent white luster that boasts exceptional resistance to corrosion.
Iit fits like a dream, adapting to whatever wrist it’s on, and the 9.5mm thickness ensures comfortable wear with a luxurious heft that reminds you of the pristine quality and expensive materials.
With a rare open caseback, Rolex gives you a glimpse into the technical marvel that powers the piece (which we will get to later) and equips it with a sapphire crystal that protects the piece from virtually any scratches.
The crown subtly protrudes from the side and is embedded with the same high-quality platinum. It is easily windable, so you can set the time without hassle. The curve of the case is interrupted by the edge of the double bezel, adding more texture.
The impeccable finish is a mixture of polished and brushed surfaces that serve to remind you exactly who you’re buying from. Rolex is no stranger to star-studded cases. The platinum naturally steals the show, but the Perpetual 1908 comes in 18K yellow and white gold that is just as luxurious with the same quality and detail as its platinum counterpart.
Overall, the case is exactly what you would expect from a watch of this quality, with every curve complimenting another feature, reinforcing the dial’s boldness while maintaining the unique subtlety that has come to be expected with a high-end piece like this. The platinum steals the show, but the dial is also quite notable.
Dial
The dial is a rich, icy blue with white highlights to provoke a more engaging experience. Featuring a staggering guilloche pattern, Rolex communicates its pristine attention to detail while adding an alluring uniqueness that sets the tone of the entire piece.
Deviating from the traditional Mercedes hands we’ve grown so accustomed to seeing from Rolex, the platinum 1908 features more elegant Breguet-style hands that are immaculately finished along the indices.
When comparing it to similar pieces like the Day-Date and the Daytona, notice how the blue for the 1908 is much richer than its counterparts. Slight tweaks to the shade of blue and subtle white highlights cause the 1908 to take its own shape with a precise pattern whose repetition and quality speak for themselves.
The dial features Arabic hour markers at the 12, 3, and 9 positions. The railroad-style tracks for the minute and sub-seconds and the “Superlative chronometer” text are either a hit or a miss, depending on who you ask.
The hands are well-proportioned. Thick enough to be noticeable but thin enough to not hijack the aesthetic. They do their job well. And the simplistic taste that the watch oozes is well combated by the grainy texture, ensuring that both sides of the spectrum—the bold lovers and the subtle lovers—get what they want.
The dial is magnificent. Everything flows together well, and the rich blue perfectly compliments the platinum exterior. It definitely communicates that this is a high-end watch.
Movement
At the heart of the 1908 sits the Calibre 7140, a movement manufactured exclusively by Rolex. It’s a self-winding mechanical movement known for its precision, reliability, and efficiency, operating at 28,800 vph.
With the open case back, the 1908 allows full vision of the gorgeous engine lying at the heart of the piece. The 7140 is beautiful, with the sunny rays catching the light and allowing it to dance freely all along the back of the watch.
Featuring the patented Chronergy escapement and the Syloxi hairspring, the 1908 operates with an extremely high energy level while maintaining dependable functions that ensure the wearer of its high-end craftsmanship. The 7140 also includes Paraflex shock absorbers to enhance stock and grant the piece a power reserve of 66 hours.
Strap
The 1908 comes in either a brown or black matte leather strap, making it the only watch from Rolex not to feature a chain link. The strap is lined with green calfskin underneath and features on-tone stitching, which really illustrates the attention to detail.
Securing the elegant strap is a double folding clasp made from the same platinum as the case, embodying a new shape that better resembles the shape of a human wrist. Two levers reside on either side of the clasp that must be pressed together simultaneously for it to open.
Compared with a friction-based clasp, a double-folding clasp like this will feel much safer, causing you to become more confident that you won’t break it if you push too hard. The comfort of the strap compliments the case’s curvy features, as both play a huge role in ensuring a comfortable and tight wear that you will hardly even notice.
On the wrist
It’s almost as if the 1908 was laced with some sort of magic material, causing it to twist and turn to fit your wrist perfectly. I often prefer leather straps because of the comfort levels they provide.
Rolex must have heard my praise because if I didn’t know better, I would say that this strap actively massages my wrist while sitting on it. People with average-sized wrists can expect this watch to fit like a dream, which is exactly what Rolex was aiming for. It has the weight and presence to fit those with heavier wrists, but people with wrists smaller than 6 inches will struggle to fit it on.
In terms of aesthetic presence, what more can you want? The platinum is sleek, the dial magnificent, and the case is large enough to catch the eye of anyone you wear it around. It manages to be just bold enough while not being tacky, but where the true beauty lies is the subtlety of the fine materials that hold the piece together.
Any outfit can match this piece because the masterpiece on your wrist will immediately overshadow anything you wear. However, since this piece is just shy of $31,000, it may be wise to limit its wear to special occasions, such as formal parties or fancy shows—something to match the vibe in the room.
If you couldn’t tell by now, this is the kind of piece that doesn’t come around much. A true gem, if you will. Rolex has fully displayed their prowess, mixing all of their refined craftsmanship gained over the years into a piece that will undoubtedly be iconic for generations.
Pricing
You can find the Rolex Perpetual 1908 from Rolex authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Rolex. A brand-new 1908 platinum can be picked up for $30,900. Pre-owned pieces usually range from $24k-$25k, depending on the condition of the watch.
Conclusion
At the end of the day, watchmaking is art, and Rolex has been the best artist for a long time. This watch is cemented as one of their masterpieces. The 1908 line is my personal favorite from Rolex, and the platinum just might be the most extravagant and luxurious version of an already magnificent lineup.
If you have the money to spend (and it’s a lot), then I can think of no better piece that deserves your attention. Watches like this are truly an anomaly, and while the price may be very steep, the level of quality is not lacking in the slightest, meaning that if you pull the trigger, you will not be disappointed.
The day that Rolex drops the ball and delivers something subpar is the day that the watch market collapses. I’m convinced that as long as pieces like these continue to be produced, watch enthusiasts will be in good hands for the years to come.
It’s quite an achievement to be the best in something, but doing it for so long is downright impressive. As time progresses, I think one of the only guarantees in the watch world is that Rolex can be trusted to produce top-of-the-line statements like the 1908 that capture the artistic side of watch-making all of us love so much.
The Pelagos lineup has stood out as one of the most versatile dive watches on the market. Often considered the peak of Tudor’s diving watch lineup, it is far more conventional and stylish than other dive watches of similar style.
The Pelagos 39 blends everything Tudor fans have come to love about their pieces into a virtually indestructible case that can withstand the deepest waters divers can find. It’s a chunky, bold piece that highlights Tudor’s commitment to giving their buyers exactly what they are searching for without leaving anything to be desired, as well as being unapologetically conventional for the heaviest of tasks.
This article will explore every inch of the Pelagos 39, examining what sets it apart from other dive watches, as well as highlighting the intricacies and design choices that convey the professionalism of Tudor as a whole.
History
The framework for the Pelagos 39 was set by its older siblings in 2012. The original Pelagos offered three versions of a 42mm titanium dive watch measuring 14.4 mm thick and 50mm lug-to-lug, with a fully matte aesthetic.
It arrived in three colors: black, blue, or the vintage effect LHD, and was later evolved for the military-specific FXD, cementing the original Pelagos as the key representative of Tudor’s dive watches and, by extension, the entire market.
In August 2022, Tudor announced the all-new Pelagos 39. It kept the titanium exterior of the original, but Tudor decided to significantly slim down the entire piece to be smaller and generally more wearable. The case measures 39mm, the lugs 21mm, and the thickness 11.8mm, causing the older sibling to be smaller in stature.
Tudor made it clear that their goal with this piece was to reach a wider audience, preferably extending to male and female wear, while holding tight to the original’s roots. Tudor kept the original three on the market, making the 39 a blend of utility and style that wears far more simply. In this instance, appealing to the masses benefited Tudor because the original Pelagos was far more hefty than most preferred.
While the 39 is no moderate piece by any means, it achieves that slimmer style that so many look for while holding fast to its dive-watch origins. As we examine the details, keep in mind that the 39 is still a dive-watch through and through, created specifically to withstand high water pressure and anything else that could cause harm.
Case
As I mentioned before, the case measures in at 39mm, with a lug width of 21mm and a thickness of 11.8mm. It has a fairly simple titanium case design with fully brushed surfaces that go nicely with the dial. While being fairly large, the watch looks rather compact, almost like the engineers knew exactly what to fit where to optimize efficiency and give the wearer assurance of stability and durability.
Equipped with a sapphire crystal to limit scratches and a closed case back to ensure the safety of everything inside, divers can be sure that the 200m waterproof resistance will stand true even in the toughest of climates.
The bezel is completely satin-finished, which means it will have difficulty reflecting light. The grade 2 titanium gives it a very discreet look, but the sunburst ceramic it’s brushed with gives the appeal of a smooth, simplistic piece, and the block font mimics that of the traditional dive watches that Tudor fans are so accustomed to.
The only feature of the bezel that can compete with the aesthetic is the satisfying click it makes when you rotate it. I find that bezels you can interact with (and are fun to interact with, for that matter) tend to awaken a childlike urge to fiddle with something that makes a cool sound, and Tudors have some of the best bezel action on the market, allowing their wearers to twist and turn until that childlike desire is satisfied. The screw-down crown also shares the same teeth as the bezel, blending in perfectly with the rest of the piece so as not to steal any attention from the major features of the aesthetic.
All in all, the case is surprisingly thin for a watch of this caliber, something you wouldn’t necessarily expect from a dive watch. The sleek titanium allows for an aesthetical testament to accompany the practicality envisioned when designing this piece. It’s refreshing to have a watch that was designed with a utilitarian approach be so appealing to the eyes. The sheer idea that it’s a dive watch will undoubtedly deter the buyers that crave a traditional luxury piece, but for what it’s been dealt with, the 39 is a treasure in all departments.
Dial
The dial is black and glossy, and it almost appears to be some sort of liquid, as if it’s trying to mimic the deep waters it will inevitably be thrust into. The handset is a stark contrast, being white as snow, and the blocky square markers of the same shade stand out like white pearls in the midst of a pitch-black inkwell.
All of them glow a bright blue as well, so as you traverse the deep seas, you will never be blind. It almost appears ghostlike on your wrist, with the grey undertone of the case mixing with the harsh black of the dial. In my opinion, this kind of aesthetic is one of the most appealing color schemes you could put on a watch. I love the subtle elegance that is aware of itself and knows not to do too much.
With four lines of text residing on the dial, the 39 shares brief similarities with the Rolex Submariner. The red “Pelagos” text that resides just below the hands gives it a much-needed pop of color that subtly contrasts the black and white. With no date window, the 39 is rounded out in perfect symmetry as the hands elegantly sweep along the surface of the pitch-black backdrop.
One complaint that is common among those who have studied this watch is that the luminescent blue glow of the hands appears more faint than the brighter glow on the bezel. While this is a very minor criticism, I found that the legibility is not impacted at all. It simply serves as an irritating nitpick that is fairly justified considering the price of the watch. If that doesn’t bother you (and it shouldn’t, too much), then this dial is perfect.
I, for one, am a big fan of the snowflake-like hands and how they reside over the infinite darkness of the dial like a source of light that will always be just out of reach. The tone that is set is an impactful one indeed, extending across the rest of the piece and reflecting positively on Tudor’s design choices.
Movement
Powered by a Manufacture Calibre MT5400, the Pelagos 39, simply put, is a powerhouse. It operates at a beat rate of 28,800 BPH and reserves enough power for three days of full use before charging—about seventy hours. It uses a variable inertia balance with a silicon balance spring, making the durability and magnetic resistance quite high and great for any situation.
The MT5400 is a no-date automatic chronometer (COSC). When Tudor and Kenissi first formed their partnership, the MT5400 came to be, fueling countless classic pieces such as the Black Bay Fifty-Eight. Using the same movement, the Pelagos 39 is a perfect addition to the star-studded collection that the MT5400 powers.
Straps
The main strap is a grade 2 titanium bracelet identical to the case. It measures 21mm across, ensuring a perfect fit. Equipped with Tudor’s proprietary T-fit clasp, much like the original Pelagos in 2012, the 39’s strap adjusts to the inevitable decrease in wrist size as your body adjusts to frigid waters. It has single screwed links and a 25mm wetsuit extension that is very similar to the original Pelagos.
In fact, this is probably the biggest difference between the original and the 39, as there is no T-clasp on the original. Needless to say, it’s a diver’s dream to have a strap of this quality while exploring the deepest waters—borderline unnoticeable and, for the size of the watch, extremely light.
The best feature, however, is the duality of the steel and rubber bracelet. The Pelagos 39 comes equipped with a second strap altogether, one of black rubber with a pin buckle and diving extension, which is arguably better for those deep sea expeditions. It captures a rough aesthetic that looks tough and worn, but it also manages to be soft and comfortable, optimizing comfort for swimmers and divers alike.
On-Wrist Experience
To put it simply, this watch is very comfortable. I am not a diver. The deepest I’ll ever go in the ocean is a few feet past where it dips down. But while the watch was on my wrist, I took note of how it seemed to stay dry no matter how many times I plunged my wrist into the water.
I could tell that it was engineered to stay in the water for long periods of time, which, from a diver’s perspective at least, deems it a perfect piece. While it’s heavier than most traditional wristwear, it felt lighter in the water and was never irritating or noticeably uncomfortable.
For people with average wrist sizes, the 39 is a joy to wear. Being compact makes it feel lighter than it is, even with its measurements, and the titanium takes a great load off of what most would consider heavy. In fact, it works better for people with smaller wrists because everything on it fits so narrowly. Those with wrists below 6 inches will be thrilled at the comfort and flexibility of the piece, but those with 7.5-inch wrists may do better looking for something a bit bigger.
The Pelagos 39 is one of the lightest dive watches on the market, which, in my opinion, is the number one selling point. You may find watches with higher water resistance that will hold up under higher pressures (though most divers tend to stay above 660 ft), but there are few watches that offer this level of comfort while being virtually indestructible.
The revamp of the original Pelagos was a bold choice by Tudor but one that proved to greatly benefit enthusiasts who gravitate toward lighter pieces while also craving all the benefits of an authentic dive watch.
Pricing
A brand-new Pelagos 39 costs $4,700, and a used one ranges anywhere from $4,000 to $4,500. To put this in comparison, the standard Pelagos ranges between $3,900 and $4,700 but does not include the extra strap option of the 39.
You can find the Tudor Pelagos 39 from Tudor-authorized dealers, like Exquisite Timepieces. We only ship to the US and are authorized dealers, ensuring a 5-year warranty directly from Tudor.
Conclusion
I’m a new Tudor fan, and I have yet to be disappointed by any of their pieces. They offer a broad range of utilitarian and luxury watches, ensuring watch-lovers leave their stores satisfied and eager to explore their wide library of masterpieces. The Pelagos has been a treasure to research and wear, standing out to me because of its duality.
It attempts to combine the maximum amount of utility while maintaining a flawless aesthetic that will leave both sides of the spectrum exceedingly impressed. The price is admirable, too, especially when you compare it to like-minded pieces on the market. Overall, I can’t recommend the 39 enough and if you’re someone who desires what it offers, you will not be disappointed.
The Cartier Panthere collection first hit the market in 1983, almost instantly becoming a classic variation that both watch enthusiasts and casual wearers can enjoy. It was then revived in 2017 in an attempt to modernize the piece and re-vamp it under a brand new light.
The two variations offer a plethora of sizes, materials, and styles that each hold their own secrets and unique attributes, but how can you be sure that what you are buying truly fits your style? In this article, we will be exploring specifically how Cartier Panthere’s small and mini varieties differ and what you can expect from each size in order to know what fits you best.
The Cartier Panthere Collection
The first generation of Pantheres premiered in 1983. Cartier decided they wanted a watch that embodied what they were known best for, that being their prestigious jewelry that echoed a sense of luxury and refinement. Since then, they have steadily increased over the years, with each piece becoming more luxurious than the last.
The watch was offered in a variety of sizes and materials, such as white and yellow gold, two-tone steel, and two-tone gold. The truly premium pieces offered a combination of materials and plenty of diamond-embedded models, fully displaying their broad range to satisfy their customer base.
First-generation models were originally offered in five different sizes: mini, small, medium, large, and jumbo, but the sizing has been modified over time, with most first-generation sizes being dubbed as vintage pieces or discontinued altogether. An easy way to differentiate the sizes is to look at the date window and see where it resides.
The Cartier Panthere was originally marketed to both men and women, with the mini and small editions being classified as lady watches, while the medium was unisex, and the large and jumbo were for men.
The Panthere captured the essence of the ’80s and ’90s, embodying the fashion of that era while doing its best to boost innovation, standing out as a testimony that truly defined the era in which it was released.
Many would consider the Cartier Panthere as the first “must-have” luxury watch of its time. The two-tone Panthere were some of the most popular of the collection, featuring stainless steel cases topped with an 18k gold bezel, and the bracelets were a mix of gold and steel links, giving it the flashy aesthetic that so many coveted in those days.
Since the Panthere collection was released during the quartz revolution, it runs on quartz movement. This allows the Panthere case to be as slim as possible, assuring a comfortable fit regardless of size.
Over the years, Cartier has delivered some truly stunning dial designs for the original Panthere collection. Incorporating stones like malachite, lapis, and obsidian, along with anniversary dials decorated with the double C Cartier logo, the designers know what stands out to their audience and have perfected their designs to be recognizable even without the iconic logo.
In 2004, Cartier discontinued its entire Panthere collection, leaving a gaping hole in the department’s jewelry collection. In an attempt to fill that hole, the Cartier Santos Demoiselle served as a substitute since its bracelet subtly mimicked that of a Panthere.
Its time in the spotlight was brief, however. Most deemed the Demoiselle too sporty to fully take the place of the Panthere as it couldn’t quite reach the elevated level of glamour that the Panthere was so highly recognized for. Thankfully, over a dozen years after the discontinuation of the Panthere, it was brought back in 2017 for an entirely new generation to enjoy.
Now, the Panthere line is better than ever, increasingly expanding with new sizes and dial designs to accommodate the revamped aesthetic of the new generation.
In 2017, to kick off the collection, Cartier offered the modern Panthere in various metals across two sizes: small and medium. The current Panthere lineup, however, has been expanded to include mini models.
Just like the previous series, this new lineup of Pantheres come in stainless steel, yellow gold, two-tone steel, two-tone gold, and white gold. Along with the new generation, Cartier has also released new colors. Pantheres can now come in two-tone rose gold, rounding out the collection while satisfying new desires that a new generation may crave.
Older Vs Newer Panthere
Though difficult to notice at first, there are some minor differences between the older and newer generations of Cartier Panthere watches. For one, the newer collection no longer offers time and date models, limiting themselves exclusively to time only. The bracelets have also been updated to offer heavier links and an improved clasp.
They also differ in material sizes and choices. There was no trace of rose gold in the previous collection, as that material is exclusive to the newer generation. The sizes have shifted as well, with the largest size of the new generation measuring 27mm, as opposed to the largest size of the older models, which was 29mm.
Comparing a vintage mini with a modern mini will cause you to notice the lack of a traditional winding crown on the vintage. The older versions featured a push-piece on the case back that was used to set the time on the watch. New Panthere’s include traditional crowns that many new-gen watch lovers are far more accustomed to.
A powerful testimony to the appeal of the Cartier brand is just how long the Panthere has been in style. Whether it be the iconic vintage look of the 80s and 90s or the remastered masterpieces that they still produce to this day, their fanbase has stayed true, expecting the very best throughout the years. Cartier has delivered time and time again, cementing the Panthere as an undeniable classic that will transcend time in the years to come. Its versatility makes it one of the most coveted pieces on the market. It can be worn anytime, anywhere, and will always catch the eye of any who sees it. The Panthere collection is worth investigating if you’re looking for a superb lady’s watch that is chic and easy to wear. Next, we will dive deeper into the different sizes and determine what fits best for whom.
Cartier Panthere Small vs Mini – The Right Size for You
When you are deciding between the mini or the small variant of the Cartier Panthere, consider the aesthetic impact each size brings to the table. The mini has a more delicate feel to it, exuding a particular kind of subtle charm, while the small tends to make a bolder statement. The small size also offers a broader range of color choices for the bracelet, as well as improved functionality.
Taking a look inside the sizes, the small features a more advanced mechanism of movement, making it more precise while giving a more accurate reading. Because it is bigger, the small has more room to fit all of the complicated winding and intricate machinery necessary for a precise reading, meaning that if you prefer a watch that runs faster and is more accurate, the small is the way to go.
It’s also important to look at the differences in pricing to determine which Panthere watch holds the most value and best suits your preferences. It’s difficult to narrow down an exact price on the two since retail and market prices drastically change every day, but it is safe to say that the mini is usually $1,000 cheaper than the small when looking at the retail value. When you have a deeper understanding of the market demand, it can critically assist your decision-making process, ensuring that the watch you select is appealing to you and holds its value over time.
And, of course, the most obvious tip that I can give you is knowing your wrist size. Obviously, the small and mini watches are set apart by their sizing, so to be sure that you are purchasing a watch that will fit, take wrist measurements before making a decision. You’ll also notice the distinctive differences in wearability and comfort when examining the two sizes. Both sizes vary in strap options, affecting how they sit on your wrist, and the weight of variances contribute to overall comfort during extended wear.
The good news is that both sizes can be customized with different materials, allowing the wearer to create their own aesthetic. When choosing what fits your piece best, consider the sizing. Some materials stand out in different sizes, so keep in mind that whatever materials you wish to display need to compliment the frame so that you are getting the most from your watch.
It is important to understand how the shape and size can impact the overall look. Cartier gives you the choice to customize your Panthere. To ensure that what you choose best suits your taste, I would argue that it is necessary to study and learn all of the ins and outs of materials, shapes, dials, and sizing so that you can narrowly determine exactly what speaks to you. Pieces like these are investments. What you choose to purchase can hold a lasting impact on the long-term value. You are robbing yourself of a timeless classic if you fail to do adequate research and learn what is valuable and what is not.
Conclusion
When looking at the exciting history of the Panthere, it is clear to me why this piece has become a household name for so many enthusiasts. I, for one, am grateful that Cartier felt the need to return this collection to its former glory, as there are truly some remarkable pieces in the lineup. When it comes to pieces like these, sizing matters. You obviously want something that is comfortable, but you also want something that fits your style. The best advice that I can give is that if you prefer a more chic, low-key, subtle tone, then go with the mini (providing that it fits your wrist, of course,) but if you want a bolder, more glamorous piece, go with the small. Although both will prove objectively more subtle when compared to bigger sizes. The beauty of the Panthere, however, is that there is no objective “this size is better than this one.” Though sizing is necessary to determine how well it fits, the Panthere relies heavily on personal customization as well, giving the wearer free rein to create their aesthetic, guaranteeing that no matter what size you pick, you will be truly amazed at the quality of this watch.
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