Nina S, Author at Exquisite Timepieces - Page 2 of 6

Author: Nina S

timex vs rolex

Timex is a watch brand predominantly associated with creating affordable, good-looking watches for everyday wear. But in recent years, it has upped its game with releases like the North Expedition.

The expensive tool watch occupies a niche space within the brand’s catalog, appealing to higher-end collectors for the first time.

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This release threw the brand into an arena with the likes of TUDOR and its big sister, Rolex. And while you’d be right in thinking that Timex and Rolex compete on very different levels, there are indeed some ways in which we can compare both manufacturers to see how a budget brand like Timex fairs up against the world’s most famous horological giant, Rolex. Here is an in-depth guide to Timex vs Rolex.

Brand Heritage

Timex Brand Heritage

Both Timex and Rolex have impressive histories stretching over a century. Rolex, founded in 1905, is very much the legacy of one man, Hans Wilsdorf, who coined the Rolex name in 1908. In the early days, Rolex was already winning awards for its chronometer-certified designs and received the Class A Precision from the Kew Observatory in 1914.

The first office was opened in La Chaux de Fonds, and the brand soon gained a reputation for excellence, crafting the first waterproof and dustproof watch in 1926, followed by the first waterproof, self-winding wristwatch with a perpetual rotor.

Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual watch was deemed technically proficient when worn on the wrist of Mercedes Gleitz – the first female to swim across the English Channel in 1927, while its completion of the Everest expedition on the wrist of Sir Edmund Hillary marked not just a technical first but one of the greatest human achievements in history.

Rolex is still innovating today, drawing from its expertise as a vertically integrated company and using that control and power to its advantage when creating its many examples of horological alchemy.

Timex was founded in 1854 and was initially named the Waterbury Clock Company – a name that Timex later went on to name one of their watches after.

It produced its first wristwatch in 1950, following its success as a pocket watchmaker. In 1960, it made the Timex Marlin, known for its slim silhouette, followed by its first waterproof watch, the Mercury.

Over the years, the brand has maintained a close relationship with sports, releasing the Ironman, which became an icon amongst sports watches and a watch of choice for many professional athletes.

In 1992, the company launched its Indiglo backlight technology, illuminating a dial with a simple button press. It was a major breakthrough for its time and still serves as one of the key hallmarks of Timex’s watchmaking.

Model Variety

Gold Rolex

The great thing about Timex is that its models start from as little as $25 and never really crest above the $500 mark. Its catalog is vast, turning many young enthusiasts to the world of watches before they even realized they had an interest in them.

For others, Timex is a brand associated with childhood, being the first brand name they recall seeing on the dial of a watch.

Quartz options exist for those buying on a budget, and automatics are available for those curious about entering the world of horology. 

One model that really signifies the brand’s contribution to mechanical watchmaking is the Giorgio Galli, which takes its name from the Milan-based Timex designer. The Giorgio Galli features hollowed lugs, giving it a distinct appearance compared to other models in the brand’s portfolio, especially when viewed side-on.

One watch you may have heard of is the Timex Marlin. The brand redesigned and reissued the watch a few years ago, preserving some subtle 1960s-esque features and equipping it with a hand-wound movement.

The brand produced some collaborative efforts in the form of the Marlin, including the iteration created with designer and retailer Todd Snyder.

These simple-looking watches feature Arabic numeral hour tracks, unlike the more contemporary-looking Easy Reader watch.

According to Timex, the Easy Reader was the most popular wristwatch during the late 1970s, putting legibility and simplicity at the forefront of its design with a bare white dial and crisp black numerals.

Rolex may sometimes get accused of playing things too safe, but even Timex stands by some rather unimaginative designs like the classic and simple Timex Standard. These models range in size from 34mm to 43mm and come in chronograph form as well, while the Timex Waterbury is a stylish mid-century timepiece with bucketloads of class and charm.

The Arabic numeral hour markers and leaf-shaped hands of a Waterbury watch timelessly capture the brand’s heritage.

These features combine with a sloping set of lugs and polished round bezel, enabling the watch to wear neatly on the wrist, even in the case of the larger sizes of the collection, which measure up to 42mm in diameter.

Timex’s more masculine offerings are just as good-looking. Take, for example, the Expedition watch, infused with the charm of a field watch.

An inner 24-hour track notches the functionality factor up a gear, while the Timex Navy looks incredibly cool on a striped NATO strap for those seeking a watch with strong military vibes.

Suffice to say, the Timex catalogue has an impressive array of designs that span from the understated and simple to the edgier, slightly vintage-inspired tool watch.

And if you’re spoilt for choice, you could potentially own several Timex watches for the same price as one Rolex, so you’ll certainly have a variety of styles to play around with.

On the other hand, Rolex has a much smaller offering for collections and styles. Those collections it does offer have been around for decades, with differences in dial colors and sometimes materials often being the only newness Rolex brings to the table each year.

That said, its huge fan base often has very little to complain about when these lines are extended. The hype that builds around the speculation before a release sends collectors into a frenzy, propelling prices on the pre-owned market each time a new, highly desirable model is launched.

The oldest model in Rolex’s catalog is the Oyster Perpetual, which traces its lineage back to 1926. Still, the most collectible is arguably the Submariner, which launched almost thirty years later, incorporating the Oyster case and serving as an archetype for all dive watches that followed.

Its highly legible hands, rotating timing bezel, and robust, water-resistant case instantly made it the tool of choice for professional and recreational divers. Yet, over the years, Rolex has extended the line with several iconic collectibles, like the “Kermit,” “Hulk,” “Starbucks,” “Bluesy” and “Smurf.”

The Rolex Sub was the watch worn on Bond’s wrist in the 1962 film “Dr, No.” securing itself a strong position in the pantheon of pop culture.

As the brand’s developments in dive watch technology advanced, more water-resistant watches arrived, such as the 1970s Sea-Dweller and the much later Deepsea, which launched in the 2000s.

Rolex’s GMT-Master II is yet another highly covetable model, following on from the former GMT-Master – a watch released for Pan American World in 1955. It was used as a timekeeping tool for long-haul flights.

Equipped with a 24-hour scale on the bezel, the brand’s blue and red-themed “Pepsi” version earned itself an iconic nickname, while the “Batman” and “Batgirl” versions are the non-soda-themed alternatives to collectibles like the “Root Beer.”

Just like Timex offers a range of dressier timepieces, Rolex’s Day-Date and Datejust models are perfect for pairing with a more classic wardrobe. The Day-Date is a more dressed-up model yet no less sturdily crafted. It was the first watch to bear the date and day on its dial.

This watch has steel, platinum, and gold variations and many dials and sizes to choose from. Movie stars, athletes, and world leaders have sported the Day-Date over the years, while the Datejust is another resolutely classic companion, marking an earlier release date and the first watch to feature a date window on the dial. It was released to commemorate the brand’s 40th anniversary, becoming its bestselling model.

Of all the sports watches in the world, the Rolex Datejust has to be one of the most popular. Styled on the wrist of Paul Newman, some models have become the most expensive to own in the world.

The Daytona has a strong motorsport-inspired aesthetic with a trio of chronograph sub-dials and a tachymeter scale, the Paul Newman iterations proving the most desirable of all (one of which was owned by the legendary actor himself, selling for $17.75 million).

Design

Despite Rolex and Timex having very different backgrounds and histories, both brands share similar-looking designs. Take, for example, the Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi and Timex’s Q GMT. Both of these models sit at significantly different price points but look very similar in design.

First and foremost, the GMT-Master II is one of Rolex’s most iconic designs, so for two watches at such disparate price points, it becomes somewhat difficult to objectively compare quality and materials, especially when a lot of the value in a Rolex watch equates to status.

Still, both models are crafted from stainless steel, and both feature the instantly recognizable “Pepsi” bezel that Rolex made famous in 2014, albeit with the GMT-Master II featuring a black dial and the Timex Q GMT presenting time on a blue one. Of course, being a much more affordable option, a difference in quality can undoubtedly be seen and felt in the Timex model. The stainless steel bracelet is not as well engineered, but the watch does boast some incredible retro-inspired styling.

Rolex is globally renowned for its world-class superlative chronometers, too. But for an easy, fuss-free daily beater, the Timex Q GMT is undoubtedly a great alternative and one that benefits from the accuracy of a simple quartz movement.

In that same vein, both Rolex and Timex offer a white steel sports watch with loosely similar features and aesthetics. The Timex x Huckleberry Navi XL Automatic Arctic watch and the Rolex Explorer II have bright white dials, steel bezels, and matching orange accentsaccents but are priced very differently.

The layout of the Timex watch is more diverse than the field, with chunky luminous hour markers and a Cyclops date window.

On the other hand, the Rolex Explorer II – a fully fledged adventure watch – shares the same 24-hour inner scale but features a jumping hour GMT hand. Both watches are powered by mechanical movements, too.

But while the Timex x Huckleberry features more of a workhorse movement than a monument to horological handcraft, the Explorer II movement has the build, quality, and refinement synonymous with a superlative chronometer, boasting Rolex’s Chronergy escapement and Parachrom hairspring.

Build Quality and Materials

Let’s get one thing clear: Timex doesn’t make its own materials, which should automatically put the brand on the back foot when compared to a brand like Rolex. And it kind of does, to an extent.

You can’t really compare the quality of a Timex watch vs a Rolex watch because the latter will win hands down on innovation. What you need to know, however, is that Timex watches are still reliable and robust despite not being made from proprietary materials.

Most Timex watches are crafted from stainless steel with acrylic, mineral, and sapphire crystals. Of course, sapphire is a premium material, and that’s why Rolex uses sapphire in all of its watches.

Also, some Timex watches are crafted from titanium, offering a stronger and lighter composition than traditional steel.

Ever wondered what all of Rolex’s terms mean? Like Rolesor, Oystersteel, and Everose? These are the brand’s proprietary materials, developed in-house at the company’s material research and design center.

Rolex even produces its own gold and uses premium 904L stainless steel – a material used extensively in the aeronautics industry.

The ability to smelt its own metals is one thing, but the brand also has its own name for bi-metal designs, namely Rolesor, relating to the company’s gold and steel two-tone innovations. This term can denote an Oystersteel and 18k yellow gold combination or those models that combine Oystersteel with Everose – the brand’s own rose gold metal.

Rolesium refers to the brand’s steel and platinum models, offering extra toughness and a weightier finish on the wrist, while Cerachrom is Rolex’s own ceramic material, which proposes anti-fading qualities, which the company utilizes in its bezels.

Back to Timex, however, one of its most remarkable feats was the development of its patented Indiglo light technology. It was an instant revelation. The fact that the brand could lay claim to an in-house development gave the watches featuring Indiglo technology superiority.

Timex created and patented the Indiglo Corporation, allowing it to control the technology similarly to how Rolex has purchased practically every third-party vendor to claim every aspect of Rolex watchmaking as its own.

Movements

So, as you’ll have gathered by now, Timex doesn’t produce its own movements, but the movements it does use are incredibly precise, some of which trump Rolex for accuracy. Timex watches come in analog, digital, and ana-digi combos.

The brand also uses a mixture of quartz, automatic, and hand-wound movements, so there’s certainly an option for every budget.

Some of the brand’s hand-wound watches are powered by Seagull ST6 movements and are made in China. Understandably, sourcing these movements keeps the brand’s costs down. Other movements are Japanese-crafted, such as the Miyota 8215, used in the Expedition Titanium.

Rolex movements are certainly superior to Timex movements and are all developed in-house, benefitting from several technological feats.

One is the Parachom hairspring, which is designed for superior precision and enhanced by the brand’s very own shock-absorbing Paraflex components. The brand also manufactures its own take on the Swiss lever escapement, which promises increased energy efficiency.

Rolex acquired the Aegler company, which manufactured its movements in 2004, absorbing it into the brand. The most popular Rolex movements to date are those such as the Calibre 3135, which is utilized for its simplicity and reliability in models like the Submariner, Yacht-Master, and Datejust.

Rolex technologies are continually advancing, with recent details emerging of the brand’s quest to develop a natural escapement.

Price Point

It’s a well-known fact that Timex is a much more affordable brand than Rolex. Even if you know very little about the watch world, you’ll have guessed that acquiring a Rolex takes a fair amount of saving up.

Timex watches can be purchased for under $50. You’ll get a standard quartz movement and a very basic design for that. But as the watches creep up the price scale, you begin to get a feel for the brand’s value-for-money ethos.

Some of the hand-wound and automatic-powered watches can cost less than quartz, indicating that you pay for the functions and features of these watches as much as the movement type itself.

Rarely will a Timex watch reach the $1k price tag, but those that do are the contemporary-looking S2 watch and the most recent of all – the titanium-crafted Timex Giorgio Galli S2Ti.

In contrast, the cheapest Rolex watches are those like the Milgauss, which sells new for around £8,500, and the Explorer for around $6,500. Additionally, you can pick up the no-date Sub for around $7,500.

On the other end of the spectrum, highly covetable models sell for much more on the pre-owned market, like the Submariner “Hulk,” for which you can expect to pay around $18,000.

Conclusion

Rolex is the king of luxury; there is no arguing that fact, but that doesn’t mean a watch from the Crown brand is your best bet.

There are circumstances where a Timex watch may be a better option, and although the two brands are worlds apart in some respects, in others, they can be compared, at least to a degree. Even some avid Rolex fans would argue a case for the Timex being a neat alternative to their favourite Rolex.

Think about it. Would you choose to do yard work in your 18k gold Sub when you can put a cheaper Timex tool on your wrist?

Timex is the more accessible brand of the two, and unlike Rolex, its watches don’t come with an extortionate price tag and a ridiculous waiting list.

And regardless of how much you scour the pre-owned market hoping to drop on a complete steal, you’ll never find a Rolex watch as cheap as a Timex unless it’s a counterfeit.

Accuracy-wise, there’s also an argument for Timex. The brand’s Ironman has an accuracy rating of +/- 5 seconds per week compared to the Rolex Sea-Dweller’s accuracy of +/- 2 seconds per day.

At the end of the day, time is time, and if accuracy is your utmost priority in a watch, it makes sense to spend less on a more accurate watch, especially when the difference between the two is some $9000.

Believe it or not, Timex was also a watch of choice for presidents. Sure, Rolex has a history steeped in celebrity status (the brand even has a collection dubbed the President’s Watch), but Bill Clinton and Bush also wore Timex watches during their time as presidents.

On the other hand, Rolex, a younger watch on paper compared to Timex, has a much more impressive history, having produced its proprietary waterproofing system for its casing (the Oyster case with threaded crown), as well as the first perpetual wristwatch and the first timepiece to display the date on the dial.

Rolex made a product line and never really deviated from it. Some would say this was far from adventurous and could accuse the company of being boring or playing things too safe. Nevertheless, its core lines have a solid, unwavering track record of success, amplifying its reputation.

Consistency is key and fosters a strong relationship with its consumer base, who have a very clear image of what a Rolex is and what they want in a watch.

And there it lies: the pros and cons of the Timex watch versus the Rolex watch. For brand recognition and superior materials, it has to be Rolex.

But for affordability, fun, and a good quality movement, Times seems to be a solid low-to-mid-priced contender for the Crown brand, and fans of both sides are beginning to realize this as Timex’s designs continue to move towards the upper echelons of watchmaking.

invicta vs rolex

For fans far and wide across the globe, Rolex watches are the epitome of everything a grail watch should be. Quality craftsmanship, iconic codes of design, and in-house mechanics. 

Can most of us afford one? No. It begs the question, how good is Invicta compared to Rolex, and can its watches quell the desire for a grail watch, even if only until we can afford that platinum Daytona? Let’s see…

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The burning question that gets in the way of determining a clear-cut winner when it comes to the Rolex vs Invicta debate is, “Are Invicta watches any good?” It’s the million-dollar question because we already know that Rolex is a good brand. 

Indeed, the proof is in the pudding with a Rolex watch. The brand produces classic models that never fail to capture the hearts (and wallets) of nations with their exceptionally well-built designs.

Whether you have the money to buy a Rolex is another matter. And unless you’ve recently discovered abundant oil reserves in your backyard, you’ll unlikely have the finances to buy more than one. Instead, affordable alternatives are the reality for most of us. 

Even serious Rolex collectors will admit they have a cheap daily “runabout” watch for yard work. So, could an Invicta be “that watch”? Could it even suffice as a work watch?

A Monday through Friday kind of companion? Could it be the tool watch you’d rather wear because you don’t want to prang your gleaming gold Rolex up?

Before we go any further and compare these two brands for factors like craftsmanship, quality, and design, let’s recap on each brand’s standout features.  

Some Quick Facts About Invicta Watches

Invicta Watches

Interestingly, Invicta started as a Swiss brand but has also earned its place amongst some of the most reputable American brands, too. Why, you ask? Well, although the watchmaker was founded in La Choux de Fonds, it later moved to Hollywood, Florida, after being sold to an American family after the Quartz Crisis. 

The relocation of the brand’s headquarters to the US and its growing popularity in America during the 1990s made it particularly affordable. Then, in 2000, Invicta began making its own proprietary movements as part of Technical Swiss Ebauche.

Invicta is a brand that mass produces watches, enabling it to keep prices low, where the differences between this brand and Rolex become more apparent.

As a matter of fact, the accessibility of an Invicta watch compared to a Rolex watch is what makes it somewhat less desirable. Rolex watches are produced in much more controlled quantities to feed consumer demand.

At a glance, there are pros to an Invicta watch. The brand offers a vast range of choices, with over 4000 different designs available, and the fact that they’re so financially accessible makes them fun to wear and collect. 

To an extent, I do believe that investing in a cheaper watch subconsciously alleviates any inhibitions you may have about wearing a $30k watch, for example.

On the other hand, Invicta has been accused of being an homage brand. There is nothing illegal or wrong about an homage watch, and it should not be confused with a fake or counterfeit one.

Even so, homage watches appeal to those shopping on a budget, and if you are going to choose an homage Rolex watch, Invicta is one of the best out there.

For some, the Pro-Diver is the closest they’ll ever get to owning a Submariner, and its quality and price certainly aren’t to be scoffed at, either.

Lastly, because Invicta started as a Swiss company but set up home in America, many watch enthusiasts see the watchmaker as nothing more than a fashion brand. Still, there is more to this brand than meets the eye, and if affordability and quality materials are important to you, you could certainly do a lot worse than an Invicta watch.

Some Quick Facts About Rolex Watches 

Rolex Submariner 5512 

Here’s a plot twist for you. Rolex was not founded in Switzerland. The brand emerged from London in 1905, founded by a German watchmaker living in the UK. Much to people’s disbelief, the name “Rolex” means very little when you break it down.

It wasn’t named after its founder and bears no relevance to the brand’s history. In fact, when creating the name for this brand, all its co-founder Alfred Davies was looking for was a five-letter word that looked good on a dial. 

Rolex pioneered the first waterproof wristwatch in 1926. It was named the Rolex Oyster and featured a case design that later became the backbone of every watch to follow.

The brand can also lay claim to several world record-breaking moments, including being strapped around the neck of the first woman to swim across the English Channel and the first watch to reach the summit of Mt. Everest.

The launch of its first self-winding rotor also became a pivotal moment in the watch world in 1931, and the brand has a long list of iconic watches under its belt.

But whether it’s the brand’s ability to create watches that can reach depths of 35,798 meters underwater that appeals to you most or its vertically integrated setup, no one can deny the reputation of this world-renowned brand.

Brand Heritage 

Here’s the thing you may not have even expected to read about Invicta. The brand does actually have a history.

And that history stems back to when Invicta was committed to manufacturing everything from elegant calendars to complicated pocket watches, which explains why some of the company’s vintage models add value and interest to a collection.

Invicta was a family-led company right up until the point it hit financial troubles. This wasn’t unusual for a Swiss watchmaker. In fact, many businesses closed down altogether as a result of the crushing Quartz Crisis.

Those that didn’t do so had to change course and find a way to survive, many of them (including Rolex) producing quartz examples. Invicta is now owned by American brand Invicta Watch Group, which also owns Glycine. 

Despite any misconceptions about this brand being a fashion watch company with zero history, it’s pretty plausible that many collectors have uncovered a more profound interest in watches through this brand. Invicta can trace its origins back to 1837, and its name, representing the Latin word for “Invincible,” is a nod to the company’s grit and determination over the centuries. 

Although the brand tried to survive the 1970s by manufacturing quartz options, it eventually hit financial difficulty, selling its assets to an American company in the 1990s.

Many don’t realize that Invicta became a leader in the online shopping concept, selling its watches on many different e-commerce platforms and penetrating all corners of the world. From this point onwards, Invicta grew and is now the creator of some incredibly bold, larger-than-life designs. Some of the company’s most famous designs today are the Pro Diver, the Speedway, and the Aviator. 

Rolex’s history, however, began with one man’s vision to create a watch with equal elegance and reliability. The brand’s relentless persistence for chronometer precision quickly led to its success, and in 1919, it became the first brand to be awarded a certificate for chronometric precision.

This horological feat was quickly followed by the first waterproof watch in 1926 after the brand relocated to Geneva from Bienne.

A few years later, Rolex mastered the ingenious system of the perpetual rotor, releasing the first self-winding watch. Before long, the brand was discovering ways to showcase the technical performance of the Oyster in different ways, namely in motorsport, aviation, and sports watches. 1945 saw the arrival of the iconic Datejust watch with a date window on the dial.

Its Jubilee bracelet and fluted bezel were immediate giveaways of this unique-looking design, while the 1950s welcomed the brand’s GMT-Master as the height of the transatlantic flight. 

The famous Pan Am Airlines became synonymous with the design, its most visual feature being the two-tone bezel with defining night and day sections.

Before this milestone launch, however, Rolex had been making waves in the dive watch world, inventing the iconic Submariner watch in 1953 with a water-resistant capability of 100 meters and a rotating bezel for measuring immersion time against the central minute hand. 

The 1960s was defined by the motorsport-inspired Cosmograph watch, which wasn’t actually an instant hit until it was sported on the wrist of Paul Newman. The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona had a tachymetric scale and a chronograph dial that later became one of the brand’s most expensive collectibles.

Between the 1970s and 1990s, Rolex focused on creating exceptionally robust watches like the Explorer II, the 1,200-meter water-resistant Sea-Dweller, and the Yacht-Master. In recent years, Rolex has been building on these collections, modifying each design’s defining features and crafting its components with a vertically integrated infrastructure.

Model Variety and Design 

So, we’ve established that Rolex is a master at creating iconic designs. Some of the brand’s most influential have featured on the silver screen and the wrists of many famous Hollywood stars, athletes, and political personnel. 

Barack Obama, Winston Churchill, Steve McQueen, Martin Luther King, Jay-Z, and Paul Newman are among some of the most famous wearers of the Rolex name, not to mention sporting professionals Roger Federer and Tiger Woods.

But we can use examples like the Pro Diver and Submariner in comparing the design and model variety of a Rolex watch vs an Invicta watch. 

The Pro Diver is Invicta’s powerful dive watch, and while many would argue this watch lacks innovation due to its similarities with the Sub, it also makes for one of the best alternatives to Rolex’s famed diver, mainly for its price point and materials. But how good are Invicta watches when compared to Rolex? 

These two watches may look like twins, but one is a lot more expensive, and these differences will be easy to pick out by any hardcore Rolex collector.

To the untrained eye, the Pro Diver is a solid option with diver-like hour markers and hands similar to the Sub and a unidirectional bezel. The Invicta option, however, is not quite as water-resistant as the Submariner, offering 200m water resistance as opposed to Rolex’s 300m.

But you’d be wrong if you thought the Pro Diver is flimsier because it’s cheaper. The finish is good on this more affordable alternative, and it’s made from stainless steel (not 904L, mind you).

It also benefits from the reliability of a Seiko movement that can compete with a Rolex caliber on several levels. The main plus, however, is that you can wear the Pro Diver without worrying about the cost of repairing or replacing it if it gets damaged. 

On the whole, wearing a Rolex watch is about conveying that all important sense of luxury and sophistication with a range of timepieces that lean towards classic styles. On the other hand, Invicta watches are about affordability, with bold, large, and slightly more modern design language. 

Build Quality and Materials

Build quality and materials are where Rolex trumps Invicta and many other affordable competitors on the market, too. Rolex is a vertically integrated company that builds its watches from the ground up. 

What this means is that the brand has complete freedom and flexibility over its design approach. The company also has its own research and development department dedicated to innovating proprietary movements like its Everose alloy and Cerachrom – a durable ceramic compound that resists the effects of fading caused by sunlight.

Rolex also creates the components it uses inside its meticulously engineered movements, including the Parachrom hairspring and its Chronergy escapement system.

It’s not the only brand manufacturing movement components, but this factor alone appeals to devoted collectors who wouldn’t consider buying anything other than a timepiece powered by a Manufacture movement.

Invicta watches do not possess the same appeal and instead conduct themselves somewhat differently. Sometimes, the brand opts for cheaper alternatives to keep costs down, like mineral glass instead of sapphire and gold-plated case materials that can scratch and wear more easily. 

The phrase “you get what you pay for” applies when comparing Rolex and Invicta watches. Rolex materials justify the brand’s insane prices, but that’s all part of their appeal as statements of luxury. 

Movements

So, Invicta doesn’t manufacture its own case materials or watch components, and its design process does not happen in-house. But it does equip its watches with movements manufactured by the most famous of all Japanese brands – Seiko. Seiko movements are respected globally for their reliability and precision. 

One of the company’s most popular and well-used engines is the 4R36, which guarantees an accuracy of around +45 to -36 seconds a day. Higher grade examples are those like the 6R15, with an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. This manufacturer developed the Hi-Beat movement and innovated the revolutionary Spring Drive movement that you see in elegant Grand Seiko collectibles.

In contrast, the development and manufacture of a Rolex movement takes place at the foot of the Jura mountains, in the brand’s Bienne-based facilities, where the picturesque landscapes of the Swiss mountains and crisp, bright blue skies form the backdrop to the brand’s roots.  

As a manufacturer dedicated to pure, unadulterated Swiss precision, each Rolex movement guarantees longevity, strength, and stamina. From Rolex’s perpetual rotor to its durable hairsprings, each watch bearing this prestigious name on its dial exemplifies this in-house expertise and meticulous craftsmanship, making it just as respected for its movements as for its design. 

Price 

There are no two ways about it: Rolex watches are much more expensive than Invicta watches. Brand prestige, quality materials, and movement are all factors that determine the high price of these watches.

On average, you can expect to pay around $13k for a Rolex. But for pre-owned models, it’s very common to see sought-after models from the Daytona Submarine of GMT-Master lines go for double or triple that price.

The opposite can be said for Invicta watches. These are cheap to start with, costing around $300, but they sell for a third of the price in the pre-owned market.

Since these watches are abundant on the primary and secondary market, they aren’t considered collectibles and don’t retain their value. On the other hand, Rolex is the king of value retention. 

Of all the prestigious luxury watchmakers on the market, Rolex produces watches that hold their value or appreciate the most. So, if you’re looking for an investment proposition, Rolex wins hands down on this front. 

Conclusion

Choosing between Invicta or Rolex depends on what you want in a watch. If you don’t mind the idea of a third-party movement and a not-so-well-known brand name, Invicta is certainly worth some consideration.

For some enthusiasts, an homage watch is their only reality; there’s nothing wrong with that. The brand’s sports, dive, and aviation watches still deliver on the quality front, although not to the same degree as an immortal Rolex. 

Comparing two brands that compete on two different levels is tricky. One is esteemed for its revolutionary designs that carry iconic status; the other produces cheaper alternatives en masse for those who don’t want to pay Rolex prices.

For many, an experienced collector, nothing will ever come close to a Rolex. But for those working on a different budget, Invicta could provide a gateway into the watch-collecting sphere with adequate materials, quality movements, and bold designs.

cartier tank vs santos

There seems to be a general consensus amongst luxury watch enthusiasts that only those brands with at least a century’s worth of history and experience behind their designs are worthy of being amongst the elite of the Haute Horlogerie universe.

Of course, that’s not true, and there are many up-and-coming names and micro-brands, not to mention young watchmakers making waves across the industry with their influential designs.

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But for the purposes of comparing one Cartier watch with another, we can at least say that both of these models come from the same respectable, independent watchmaker, who has over 100 years of know-how and heritage behind its name.

The Cartier Santos and Cartier Tank are among the French luxury brand’s most famous and popular watches of all time. They’re also loved for very different reasons.

Cartier has an illustrious history, and the Tank and Santos have served as two pillars of outstanding craftsmanship and success, marking watershed moments for the brand. 

Should you be contemplating which model you’d like to embellish your collection with, you may require a little extra assistance to accompany your research. In this article, we’ll compare the history, materials, design, movements and the prices of both models as the Cartier Tank goes head- to-head with the Cartier Santos.

The Cartier Tank 

The Cartier Tank

To many, the Cartier Tank may seem very simple in design. But while it embodies a purity that is appreciated amongst discerning collectors, it also tells the story of an unlikely design.

One that didn’t follow the conventional shape, yet reached the heights of popularity in a profound way with a unique design inspired by military tanks of the First World War…

The History of the Tank

The Cartier Tank first came to life in 1917 with its bold rectangular design that stood out drastically amongst a sea of Art Nouveau-inspired timepieces.

It echoed the profile of the Renault FT-17 machines of WWI with clear, structured lines that defied the conventions of its time, marking the beginning of a creative era in watchmaking.

The Tank set a new precedent for modernity and outside-of-the-box thinking. The case was formed by a set of parallel lines that Cartier likes to call “brancards” and the dial was occupied by sword-shaped hands and Roman numeral hour markers.

The crown at the side of the case was set with a blue sapphire cabochon – a hallmark of many Cartier watches. Lastly, its simple yet decadent design came equipped with a traditional leather strap for easy wearing.

The Tank actually took some influential cues from its predecessor, the Santos, yet the gently elongated case shape and clean lines gave it an elegant personality of its own.

It was one of the first examples to take influences from the Art Deco style, appealing to those brave enough to wear something that went against the grain. 

It would be 1919, however, before the first Cartier Tank watch would go on sale. It’s what we now call the Tank Normale, which preceded the Tank Cintree – both of which were led under the innovative direction of Louis Cartier himself.

The Cintree, however, was slightly more elongated, fully celebrating the unusual appeal of the rectangular case with a cambered case and stretched Roman numerals. The inaugural Normale, however, was produced in limited runs, making these originals some of the most covetable of all.

The watch also became ubiquitous on silver screen, starring in the 1926 film “The Son Of The Sheik”. The brand re-launched many historical Tank designs much later on, including the aforementioned Tank Cintree, which arrived in 2018 with iterations available in platinum, rose gold and yellow gold.

The Cintree is an acquired taste. Because it looks rather different to other Tank models, it’s often overlooked until experienced on the wrist. 

Back to the Tank’s history, though. The Tank Chinoise arrived later, resuming the more squared case shape similar to the Normale. It featured upper and lower brancards inspired by East Asian temples.

As time went on, subtle changes were gradually implemented into the collection, including the gently rounded corners of the Tank Louis Cartier case, donating a softer, albeit geometric profile.

Its scalloped edges offered a striking take on the watch and soon became the classic “Tank” style by which all other models are compared to.

The Tank Louis Cartier, otherwise known as the Tank LC was by far one of the most iconic interpretations of the Tank during the roaring 20s and was exclusively manufactured in precious metal, making it an appealing dress watch option for special occasions.

These models were eventually made available in quartz-powered versions, however the purist of ways to experience the model today would be in manually wound form. 

This brings us to the historical chapters that outline some of the most important versions of the Tank watch – each one becoming a renowned component of the larger Tank collection. Here they are in a little more detail.

The Tank Models 

Let’s fast forward to 1977 – the year of the Cartier Tank de Must – a watch that launched during the era of the Quartz Crisis and a more affordable period of watch collecting. To keep up with the demand for accessible wristwatches, Cartier released the Tank de Must in gold-plated silver or brass.

Today, this line still exists, accommodating the Solar Beat variations that absorb light through their dials. A second sub- line has since been built out, too – the Tank Solo – a series of affordable quartz-powered steel models. 

The Tank Americaine followed the quartz period with a curved case that looked similar to the Cintree. These iterations featured a small seconds or moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock, adding another layer of technical sophistication to the Tank design.

These models are curved on the dial side with flat casebacks and have recently launched in steel for the first time (2017).

Cartier continued the legacy of the iconic Tank watch in 1996 with the launch of the Tank Francaise, boasting a squared case design and a refined link bracelet that exuded a sportier presence.

In 2012, Cartier released the Tank Anglaise – a much bolder and more modern design with prominent brancards and a chunkier profile for a bolder wrist presence.

This design showcased the crown embedded into the brancards, forming one of the most distinctive designs within the collection. This blend of traditional and modern features serves to articulate the journey of the classic Tank and its evolution over the decades. 

Today, the Cartier Tank is still one of the most alluring designs to own and has been spotted on the wrists of royalty, as well as famous faces like Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy and Andy Warhol.

Above all, it’s a highly popular collectible due to its minimalist design, striking rectangular shape, timeless aesthetics, impeccable movements, and its ability to retain value. 

The Cartier Santos

The Cartier Santos

Similarly, the Cartier Santos is one of the brand’s most enduring designs to date and is once again defined by its unconventional shaped case.

Suffice to say, if you like to steer away from the traditional round case and you like vintage-looking watches that carry a curious and intriguing history, either the Tank or Santos is going to appeal to you for similar reasons.

Yet the Santos is steeped in an aviation heritage, blending luxurious square-shaped aesthetics with pilot-friendly functionality.

The collection ranges from stainless steel models to exquisite diamond-set creations and skeleton editions that show the workings of some of Cartier’s most impressive mechanical movements.

The History of the Cartier Santos 

The story of the Santos dates back to 1904 when Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont highlighted the need for a highly practical wrist-worn tool for flying. The pocket watch was impractical for such duties, thus Cartier responded to the request with a flat watch with a square bezel and a strap.

Santos-Dumont became the first pilot to sport the wristwatch during flight. The design was inspired by an earlier square-shaped Cartier pocket watch and featured an Art Deco-inspired dial that was crisp and highly legible and went on to define the 1920s and 1930s, as did the Tank. 

Earning the distinction of being the first men’s wristwatch, the unorthodox watch design went down in history and is still available today. The first models were made available to the general public in 1911 but have since undergone modifications that have helped evolve the watch into the practical, yet instantly recognisable model it is today. 

The Santos Models 

With screws that bolted down the watch glass, inspired by the legs of the Eiffel tower and a Roman numeral hour track that echoed the streets and boulevards of Paris, there is no denying that the Cartier Santos watch was unique, both in design and aesthetics.

When the watch hit the shelves in 1911, options in platinum and yellow gold became available. The brand then went on to create the deployant clasp (before innovating the QuickSwitch clasp) and played a pivotal role in defining the era that made the man’s wristwatch both acceptable and stylish. 

During the 1970s, Cartier was inspired by the stainless steel sports watch and the penned Gerald Genta designs that took the world by storm.

It turned to the Santos to capitalise on the trend, redesigning it and renaming it the Santos de Cartier in 1978. It switched out the classic leather band for an integrated metal bracelet and debuted in stainless steel

Similar to changing tactics during the quartz era with a battery-powered Tank, Cartier also revised and renamed the Santos during the 1980s with the large-wearing  Santos Galbee, before the arrival of the Santos 100 in 2004, marking the model’s centenary.

After lying dormant for a decade, the brand relaunched the Santos in 2018 with a modern collection of timepieces each featuring curvier lugs and cases. The range came with several patent-pending features including a SmartLink system for its bracelets and the aforementioned QuickSwitch mechanism.

The latest range is the Santos-Dumont, which launched a year later in two-tone options, featuring dials that look similar to early 1900 vintage models. 

Despite the many variations of the Cartier Santos and the fact that it’s the oldest design in the brand’s current catalogue, there is still a strong appetite for this aviation watch. It still looks good on the wrist some 100 years later, as does the Tank, making the decision process between the two particularly tricky. 

Which Is the Right Model for You?

It goes without saying that the Cartier Tank leans into dress watch territory with its simple, classic and undeniably elegant aesthetics.

Though both share the crisp black Roman numeral hour markers and signature blued hands of the true unadulterated Cartier style, the Santos is bolder and more functional, benefitting from a QuickSwitch strap, as well as superior water resistance. It’s an ideal go-to watch that straddles the line between dress and sports watch.

As well as capturing the brand’s pioneering heritage in aviation watchmaking, the Cartier Santos shows more technical sophistication, exposing elements of its fine watchmaking through skeletonised designs and industrial-inspired elements like the bezel screws, though these features may be too aggressive for some and it’s price too high when compared to entry-level Tanks.

The Tank however, excels in formal environments with its slim profile and elegant proportions. Great for business attire, the unisex designs from this collection are versatile across gender preferences thanks to their timeless design language and their cultural significance across the course of history.

At the end of the day, however, it’s the Cartier Santos that stands out for its practical adaptability. The implementation of its strap-changing features makes customising the watch easy while on the go, eradicating the need to use tools and providing more configurations for those who like to switch up the style of their watch as they go. 

Of course, deciding between the two depends on personal preference and requires some level of consideration in what you need in a timepiece and what your watch-wearing habits are. 

The Cartier Tank and Santos as Investments 

Understanding the investment side to collecting Tank and Santos watches is important. Both stand out for their strong value retention, but as with every model, market demand and price is affected by rarity, materials and condition.

From the Tank collection, models like Louis Cartier Tank watches hold their value well, while the Tank Must designs have provided a more accessible price point for collectors, strengthening the brand’s market position and appealing to a wider audience. 

Like many sports watch offerings, the Cartier Santos demonstrates good value retention, especially those that have since become discontinued, like the Santos 100.

Enhancing market appeal further are features designed for comfort and practicality like Cartier’s redesigned case proportions and strap-fitting mechanisms, benefitting from enhanced build quality whilst still preserving the links to it is heritage. 

Contrastingly, while the Cartier Tank commands premium prices when in precious metal form, the value of the Santos can be found within its steel sports watch offerings. For a new Cartier Tank quartz, you can expect to pay around $3k and within the region of $20k for a precious metal model.

For the Cartier Santos, prepare to part with around $7k to $40k depending on the complication, or more than original retail price for a vintage or discontinued model on the pre-owned market. 

Conclusion 

The word “iconic” is thrown around all too often in the world of watch collecting. But if there is one watch that lives up to that terminology, it’s the Cartier Tank. The watch has graced the wrists of many luminaries over the years, from Princes Diana and Jackie Kennedy to Andy Warhol and Muhammed Ali.

Although the watch has undergone many changes over the years, most have been functional upgrades rather than aesthetical ones. Indeed, the Tank has needed to change very little to keep up with current tastes.

It will remain amongst some of the most timeless designs in history thanks to its enduring shape and endlessly elegant style. Above all, the Tank is one of the most influential and recognisable luxury designs on the planet and is widely appreciated as a unisex design. 

Likewise, the Cartier Santos will always have a palace in the heart of aviation fans and pilot watch collectors, and appeals to a more niche segment, resonating with fans of the brand’s aviation roots, not to mention dedicated Cartier watch collectors who generally share an appreciation for the classic and timeless beauty of its unconventional case shape and suite of distinctive features. 

The recent boom in vintage watches has no doubt kept the Cartier Tank and Santos watches towards the top of the wish list for many discerning collectors. For those looking for a more modern interpretation of either watch, Cartier’s current line-up offers a little something for everyone.

And while neither the Santos or the Tank are the cheapest of investments, they do retain their value well and promise to make some of the best heirlooms you could opt for on the current market.

apple vs rolex

Compare a watch that vibrates on your wrist to let you know you’ve met your steps goal for the day and your work meeting is about to commence in five minutes with a traditional analog watch that operates via a series of gear trains and wheels to keep accuracy and tell me they don’t both serve very different purposes in the modern world. A smartwatch like Apple and a traditional wristwatch like Rolex are worlds apart. Or are they?

As crazy as it may sound, there is an argument for a smartwatch and an argument for a mechanical timepiece. Although there will always be an element of Swiss snobbery when this debate crops up in conversation, there is no denying that smartwatches are the reluctant revolution none of us thought we needed.

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In actual fact, Apple has forced many Swiss watch manufacturers down the digital route, and for some, it has really paid off. Lots of traditional watch companies have some sort of smartwatch offering. It makes sense when you think about society’s growing focus on fitness and health tracking.

Even though the technological feat of the smartwatch far outweighs the traditional watch on a functional level, there are still many reasons why your collection may call for a Rolex watch and an Apple watch at some point in your life. Indeed, smartwatches and traditional watches can co-exist in a collection, and there are no hard and fast rules to suggest you can only be pro and not the other.

But how do they compare when you put them side-by-side? Here’s a delve into the Apple vs Rolex debate and a comparison guide to their features and designs.  

The Birth of the Crown

Rolex Explorer 40 History

Rolex produces over 1 million watches per year. It remains the most recognizable brand in the entire world thanks to a fascinating heritage deeply rooted in independent manufacture and excellent craftsmanship, with a proven track record in iconic designs.

Founded in 1905, Rolex launched the Oyster case in 1926, forming the backbone for all other Rolex watches to follow. The hermetically sealed case was worn around the neck of famous Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitze performing admirably underwater.

Rolex is recognized for models like the Datejust, which landed in the 1940s, followed by the GMT-Master, the Day-Date, and the Milgauss. However, two of the brand’s most iconic designs were the Submariner and the Datejust.

Both models are respected for their robust case constructions, legible dials, and unmistakable design. Today, Rolex continues to build on its most well-loved collections, upholding standards in quality and authenticity that remain unmatched across the industry.

The Advent of the Smartwatch

The Apple Watch first arrived in 2015, setting the foundations of the modern smartwatch as we know it now with the Series 0. The brand set the bar for a slim, compact, and practical device compared to the bulky devices already circulating the market.

Being the first of its kind, its slow performance certainly needed some attention, and by the time the Series 1 and 2 were launched, a dual processor had been developed to increase its speed by 50%. Reasonably priced at just under $300, it also introduced GMT functionality and a “Breathe” app,.

The Series 3, which followed, featured cellular connectivity, enabling the wearer to make and take calls using the watch alone.

The Series 4 brought more size options with it, as well as a chip for Bluetooth connectivity, while the Series 5, 6, and 7 introduced a new touchscreen, more colors, and faster charging capability, respectively. Apple currently holds the leading position in the smartwatch market, selling around 37 million units in 2023.

Rolex vs Apple Functionality

The Apple Watch has a lot more capabilities than a Rolex watch, that much can be agreed on. However, what appeals to you as a wearer all boils down to personal preference. If you’re the kind of person whowho likes a lot of exercise, Apple’s heart rate function and workout features will bring efficiency and intuition to your daily runs, hikes, or biking routes.

Apple experts design the many health and fitness tracking features to provide an all-encompassing, quick-accessing experience by which all elements complement one another in one single wrist-sized package.

More akin to a phone than a watch, the battery of an Apple Watch will need recharging, which can take some getting used to if you’re an automatic watch lover and never usually need to make a conscious effort to keep your timepiece ticking over.

This is where one of the Apple watch’s disadvantages becomes apparent. If your mechanical watch runs down at any point, there is the opportunity to wind that watch immediately and get it back on track. The Apple watch will, of course, take time to electronically charge back up before you can resume enjoying its features.

Nighttime functionality in the Apple watch is far superior to any Rolex watch. Apple watches benefit from a bright OLED screen, making time instantly clear and easy to reference.

However, Rolex uses luminescent material on all the essential dial features for nighttime legibility. As with all Super-LumiNova-type material, this will fade as the hours pass and is nowhere near as bright as the OLED screen of an Apple watch.

One advantage of the Apple watch over the Rolex watch is that it costs a lot less. Does a cheaper watch give you some subconscious flexibility to be less cautious and expose it to more environments? Possibly.

Rolex watches are undoubtedly some of the toughest in the world, but when you know that damaging one will likely cost the same amount as replacing an entire Apple watch, maybe you can get more out of the Apple Watch on a daily basis.

Apple Design vs Rolex Design

Being a smartwatch, the Apple watch has a suite of features, including a heart rate monitor, calorie counter, sleep tracker, and blood oxygen tracker. More specifically, using the watch’s ECG app, you can check for signs of atrial fibrillation with the Apple watch’s heart tracker feature and measure electrical signals across your heart.

You can also create sleep schedules, review your sleep history, and track sleep apnoea on the Apple watch, as well as display an overnight view of your health metrics on demand.

Tracking social media updates and receiving messages is also super easy with an Apple watch. You can also use voice dictation or the Scribble feature to write messages while you’re on the go, as well as stay on track of activity reminders and appointments without needing a physical planner.

It’s also worth noting that there’s a whole host of third-party apps to explore, as well as those built into the Apple Watch, and you can tailor all of these apps according to how much you want to utilize your smartwatch daily.

No surprise that the functions of a Rolex watch are entirely different to those of an Apple watch. Depending on the model you own or the one you’re thinking of investing in, Rolex watches keep track of time with a traditional analog dial comprising a central hour, minute, and seconds hand and will sometimes feature a date window.

Models like the Rolex GMT-Master II will track up to three time zones at once using a 24-hour bezel and GMT hand. Other features include a chronograph complication, which you’ll most likely have seen in models like the iconic motorsport-inspired Daytona watch, and a unidirectional rotating bezel for measuring elapsed time underwater when wearing the Sea-Dweller or Submariner.

While the Apple Watch provides an array of digital statistics and health metrics on demand, the allure of a Rolex watch is deeply rooted in the brand’s heritage and its many patented designs aimed at improving and preserving the beauty of the age-old mechanical watch.

Rolex watches feature Chromalight dial appliques – the brand’s own luminous material, a helium escape valve for saturation diving, and an Oyster case with a Triplock winding crown that upholds water resistance within a specially manufactured case.

COSC-certified movements and in-house manufactured bracelets like the Oysterflex bracelet and the Jubilee bracelet are other key design features of a Rolex watch.

Build Quality & Materials Compared

Rather than the classic unboxing of a traditional watch that you can slide straight out of the packaging and onto the wrist, the Apple Watch comes as a deconstructed piece of kit that you assemble as you go, comprising the case, the strap, and the charging components.

Size-wise, there is no drastic difference between the Apple and a 40mm Rolex watch. Clearly, the differences lie in the shape of the cases and their materials.

The Apple is a smooth, softly rounded rectangular shape and can be manufactured from steel, titanium, aluminum, or ceramic. Rolex watches are a traditional round shape, and many of the brand’s sports watches are manufactured from steel.

That said, Rolex has its own research and development department and manufactures its own gold. Often, you will see a Rolex watch listed as Oystersteel, Everose, or 950 Platinum, reflecting the brand’s ability to create completely unique designs without the limitations of a controlled manufacturing process.

Movements

Obviously, we can’t compare the complex mechanical movement of a Rolex watch and the Apple watch’s lithium battery.

The two watches work in completely different ways, and rather than being down to personal choice, there is no real choice to make when considering either option. If you’re basing your purchase on your love of mechanical movements, a Rolex watch is your only choice.

Both an Apple watch and a Rolex watch are pieces of equipment, and despite the latter becoming a symbol of status, wealth, and success – it wasn’t initially intended for this. Models like the Sub were built to serve a purpose.

You could smash it up against a rock while swimming through choppy seas without worrying about it holding up. The same can still be said for Rolex watches today. They’re also incredibly versatile, and you can wear one with a suit or attend a family gathering wearing one without it looking too flashy. At the same time, rock up to a corporate event in one, and it instantly conveys success and good taste.

While Apple watches do look smart and sleek on the wrist and can be worn with a suit, they don’t conduct themselves in quite the same way. Apple watches are worn less as a remarkable statement piece and more as a handy, wrist-worn device. Even Apple experts made the case design as discreet and as sleek as possible.

These watches certainly appeal to the fast-paced generation of gym-going, meeting-attending men and women of today’s society, who barely have the time to take their phones out of their pockets. Contrastingly, the Rolex watch is chosen by someone who wants to take time out of the day to focus on the now and appreciate the simpler, more luxurious things in life.

Price Point

There is no denying the fact that something like the Rolex Datejust costs ten times the amount an Apple Series 5 watch costs. The entry-level of the Apple watch is an aluminum case, which you can choose in many different finishes.

These watches have an excellent level of customization, including the watch face itself. A decent Apple watch like the Series 5 costs around the $400 mark. Compared to any Rolex, it’s considerably cheap, given that the average cost of an entry-level Rolex is around $4-6000.

But if you want the next level up on the Apple watch, a stainless steel will cost you around $700. For a ceramic model, you’ll be looking at around $1,200 to $1,300. All of a sudden, the affordable Apple watch is now creeping into Rolex price territory.

There’s another downside too. Apple likes to release a new watch annually, causing the previous model to become quickly outdated, just like a mobile phone. When you consider that the Apple watch is designed to be worn for a year before it’s replaced, versus the Rolex Datejust, which has stood the test of time – one has to consider whether an Apple watch is worth the money.

Final Thoughts

If you’re still undecided on whether to opt for a Rolex or an Apple watch or add whichever one you’re missing to your collection, let me just say one thing. You may need a watch that will assess your sleep, optimize your prime active windows in the day, and advise you when to rest.

It may also be incredibly convenient to track how many steps you have walked or calories you have burnt. A wrist-worn computer makes even the ability to take and make calls or send messages easier. But it will never make you want to give up your favorite timepiece. A traditional watch connects in a more meaningful way.

Those favoring a traditional watch want the masculinity that a hefty piece of metal brings to the wrist. A smartwatch is not masculine. It’s a digital tool – an extension to your mobile phone if you will.

At the end of the day, a smartwatch like the Apple extends the functionality of your phone and, in a way, can make separating yourself from your phone an even harder task than before.

So, if you want to become more focused on the now and less engrossed in the time-consuming side of digital interaction and social media – a traditional watch is the escape route you’ll want to hold onto.

Smartwatches will not have Rolex lovers ditching their Daytonas and Datejusts in droves. Moreover, a Rolex fan may consider adding an Apple watch to their life if they’re looking for a digital device to aid them with their fitness goals.

(An Apple wearer by day and a Rolex devotee by night, maybe?) Likewise, those who’ve had their fill of smartwatch technology and want to come away from it may want to strip things back with an investment piece from Rolex as a lifestyle upgrade.

If you want my personal opinion? I can’t help but think that smartwatches won’t be around forever. They are undeniably beneficial and relative to the lives we lead today.

But the Apple watch’s ability to snap you out of the here and now and continually suck you back into a screen is not for everyone.

It appears that Apple is more than aware of this, too. The focus on the breathing app, the SOS call feature, and the apps that remind you to get up and keep active all put the emphasis on the consumer needing a wearable health assistant to improve their lifestyle. Is it possible to exercise, eat a balanced diet, and enjoy time spent in the now without an Apple watch? Absolutely.

vacheron constantin vs rolex

Vacheron Constantin and Rolex are watchmaking giants that have celebrated several horological feats over the years, but which brand is best? 

In this piece, both brands go head-to-head in a comparison guide, determining what features and historical milestones make them unique and worth the investment. Which will you choose? Let’s begin with a look at the history of both brands.

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Brand Heritage 

Part of the appeal of owning a watch from either of these brands, Vacheron Constantin or Rolex, is their rich history in watchmaking. Vacheron Constantin is by far the oldest, beginning in 1755 when Jean-Marc Vacheron and François Constantin partnered up and started strategically working on ways to spearhead the standardization of movement parts.

The first pocket chronometer was released in 1872, winning the Geneva Observatory’s chronometry competition, followed by the opening of its first boutique in 1906.  Vacheron Constantin watches were the first to bear the Hallmark of Geneva as a sign of excellence. The brand created the world’s thinnest manually wound watch in 1955. 

The 2000s earmarked a period of modern watch design for Vacheron Constantin, with models like the Patrimony and sporty Overseas released under the Richemont Group.

Of all its greatest milestones, however, its development of some of the world’s most complicated watches must be among Vacheron Constantin’s most impressive achievements.

The Les Cabinotiers Berkeley Grand Complication pocket watch boasts 63 complications and was released last year, 9 years after the reference 57260 made history, complete with 57 complications. 

Rolex’s history is equally fascinating, but for different reasons. The crown brand is recognized as an innovator of several iconic timepieces, including the Daytona, the Submariner, and the GMT-Master II, among many others.

The brand dates back to 1905 and was founded by a guy named Hans Wilsdorf – yes – that Hans Wilsdorf – the one also responsible for founding the sibling brand, TUDOR.

From the beginning, this brand produced superlative timekeepers and was awarded such certification as early as 1910. From the get-go, Hans Wilsdorf wanted these watches to accompany their wearers throughout their entire life, and in 1926, the Oyster case was developed.

The game-changing model formed the backbone of nearly every other Rolex watch to follow and was marketed as the world’s first waterproof watch, thanks to a hermetically sealed construction.

It comprised a bezel and caseback secured to a middle case, proving its superior water-resistant capabilities in 1927 when it was worn around the neck of female British Channel swimmer Mercedes Gleitz.

In 1931, the Oyster Perpetual watch arrived, followed by the Datejust model and, in 1953, the Submariner. The 1970s underpinned Rolex’s successful streak in creating water-resistant watches with the Deep-Sea watch.

In comparison, the iconic Cosmograph Daytona hit the shelves in the 1970s as the world-famous motorsport watch to own. Since then, models like the Yacht-Master II, the Datejust II, and the Sky Dweller have joined the party, underpinning Rolex’s innate ability to produce some of the world’s most iconic designs of all time. 

Model Variety and Design

Rolex 1908 on the wrist

As you’ll have gathered by now, both Vacheron Constantin and Rolex can claim some pretty impressive firsts. Rolex produced the first wristwatch that could change the day and date on the dial, as well as the first dual time zone watch and the first model to display both the day and date on the same dial.

As well as becoming the first brand to create a waterproof watch and receive the Swiss Certificate of Chronometer Precision, it also became the first brand to master the command bezel. 

While the Oyster Perpetual is the watch that carries all the Rolex hallmarks, the Datejust is the go-to design for those who value sophistication and functionality. Their bezels vary from smooth to fluted to gem-set and are elevated on a functional level by their instantaneous date window at 3H.

The Rolex Sub, on the other hand, is probably the world’s most famous dive watch. Special designs like the Kermit rack up extortionate price tags on the pre-owned market, while the classic black date and no-date models are as popular now as they were during the 1960s. 

Of course, if you know anything about Rolex, you’ll have heard of the Daytona – the 1960s motorsport watch that soared in price after it was spotted on the wrist of Paul Newman. Although not a bestseller at the time, the first-generation Daytona watches featured a distinctive Art Deco style and are now some of the world’s most sought-after watches.

The second-generation Daytona watches are defined by their El Primero movements, before Rolex began equipping them with its Cerachrom bezel inserts. Other famous designs include the Day-Date, fitted with the famous President bracelet, and the GMT-Master II, featuring the iconic and well-deserved red and blue “Pepsi” bezel

Vacheron Constantin is known for its rare pieces, but some of its most popular collections are also worth noting since each range offers the collector a different style to choose from. The brand keeps its selections small, its most popular line being the Overseas collection, which embodies the zeitgeist of the 1970s sports watch era with its own rendition of the angular bezel.

The unique rectangular indentations on said bezel echo the brand’s Maltese cross logo. Other popular collections include the Fifty Six dress watch, complete with a 22k gold peripheral rotor, and the more vintage-inspired Historiques collection, celebrating the mechanical watch renaissance of yesteryear. However, the most classic of all VC watches is the Patrimony – a no-frills dress watch for all occasions. 

Build Quality and Materials 

If you’re considering investing in a Vacheron Constantin watch, you must, at some point, have questioned what makes this brand so synonymous with horological excellence. What is this brand doing that earns it the position amongst the top three manufacturers in the world?

Sitting alongside Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, there is no argument that Vacheron Constantin has one of the most intriguing histories thanks to being one of the oldest watchmakers in the industry. This uninterrupted heritage comes to life in the hallowed grounds of the brand’s manufacturing facilities, where an affection for the highest horological practices is nurtured.

Apart from the case and bracelet of a VC watch, everything was once made in-house. These time-honored practices extended into some of the most challenging components to produce, like the intricate hairsprings of a movement and pallet forks.

The Geneva striped finishing and perlage you see on a beautifully decorated movement were all once applied by hand, communicating the patience and devotion of every part of a Vacheron Constantin watch. 

Vacheron Constantin also has its own Metiers d’Art department, where just a handful of artisans carry out advanced decorative practices on the dials of some of the brand’s designs. Some of these practices carried out in this department include gem-setting, guilloche work, and intricate dial engraving.

Those fully skilled in mastering the trades carried out here can operate rose engines that create meticulous finishes across the watch’s dial using an ancient practice. The engravers at Vacheron Constantin are no less impressive.

They can spend up to three months on one single watch case. Nor are the enamellers to be overlooked, who work on miniature copies of works of art, faithfully reinterpreting them onto a dial’s surface. The brand also uses a selection of exquisite materials that reflect the high price tag of a VC watch.

While exploring what this brand offers, you’ll see many examples of the materials used in its manufacture. The company uses conventional stainless steel for its sportier models and 18k gold in its dress watch and high-complication models, combined with sapphire crystal glass for everyday wear. The brand also uses diamonds for some of its more refined models, not to mention precious gemstones, and crafts some designs from titanium – a material chosen for its lightweight properties. 

On the other hand, Rolex has well and truly put itself on the map for its range of proprietary materials. In fact, it is this know-how in the field of material manufacture that makes the brand such a well-respected one in the industry. The designation “in-house” goes a long way in watchmaking and carries a lot of weight, allowing brands like Rolex more control over their design and production processes. While many watch buffs may be able to tell you where Rolex watches are made, some may not know the alloys the brand uses for its ridiculously tough and long-lasting cases. 

Rolex has its own research and development department dedicated to crafting new materials, and it is here where its proprietary 18k gold is crafted.

For example, the brand’s rose gold alloy is called Everose and is renowned for its resistance to saltwater and chlorine. The brand’s special blend of 904 stainless steel named Oystersteel also sets this brand’s designs apart, being more corrosion-resistant and harder than 316L stainless steel.

Aside from these case materials, Rolex also specializes in crafting components for the rest of the watch. Its specially formulated luminous paint is named Chromalight, which launched in 2008 and boasts a slightly longer glow with its striking blue emissions.

Rolex also produces its own durable ceramic compound, Cerachrom, which takes roughly 40 hours to create and, from a longevity standpoint, is superior to many alternative bezel materials.

Many in-house movements made by esteemed manufacturers house components crafted from materials resistant to magnetic fields, including the Crown brand. Rolex took five years to perfect the parachrom hairspring, another proprietary and patented element for superior efficiency in a watch.

Suffice to say, while both manufacturers offer a blend of functional and quality materials, Rolex trumps Vacheron Constantin on material innovation, with a range of in-house creations under its belt.

Movements 

Both Rolex and Vacheron Constantin produce their own in-house movements, which is a feat in and of itself.

Many connoisseurs find an independently manufactured movement appealing because it guarantees an element of freedom in the design process and an opportunity to enjoy a range of proprietary components that often promise a better, more efficient, and improved mechanical performance. 

Rolex began producing self-winding models in 1931. Before then, the brand exclusively manufactured manual-winding engines.

As with so many Swiss companies, however, the brand fell victim to the crushing effects of the quartz crisis and, as a result, sought to collaborate with leaders in quartz technology to produce its own Beta 21 quartz movement. Following this, the brand went on to make its own Oysterquartz movements, adapting to the climate and continuing to thrive. 

Having returned to mechanical movement manufacture, Rolex’s catalog brims with some of the most reliable, accurate, and durable movements you can own. It hasn’t changed how it makes mechanical movements since the release of the caliber 3135 three decades ago.

The brand’s movements may not be the most aesthetically pleasing or elaborately decorated. Still, since Rolex is one of the few manufacturers in the world that makes almost all of its own components, its movements consistently show their worth over time, maintaining popularity and contributing to the brand’s resale value on the second-hand market. 

On the other hand, when you see the Maltese cross on a dial, you know it has to be a Vacheron Constantin watch and, therefore, powered by an impeccable movement. VC chose this logo as it represented the shape of the component that fixed to the barrel of its movements, so this symbol is about much more than a brand name itself.

But being the long-in-the-tooth brand that it is, one would think that a Vacheron Constantin watch would be powered by a heritage movement that reflects the traditions and techniques of the long-upheld practices of its manufacturing house.

However, this is the modern world, and for quite some years, the brand has been equipping its watches with movements developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre. Don’t let this fact alone put you off, though.

JLC has been producing movements for some of the world’s most famous and respectable brands for many years, including Audemars Piguet and Patek – the other two slices of the “Big Three” pie.

The fact that JLC is one of the industry’s top movement manufacturers makes VC no less amazing or luxurious as a brand. But if in-house movement is your bag, Rolex takes this title.   

Prices 

Vacheron Constantin produces around 20,000 timepieces a year, while Rolex produces around 1 million yearly. While these numbers are incomparable in scale, Vacheron Constantin watches offer that all-important exclusivity factor due to being made in limited production batches.

However, part of the desirability of Rolex watches can be equated to their long waiting lists, which drive prices high on the pre-owned market. Since Rolex watches are seen as as more of a statement than a functional tool, they carry colossal wrist presence and can be picked out from across a room. 

Both brands produce watches ranging from a few thousand dollars to tens of thousands of dollars. Vacheron Constantin watches do hold their value better than most other brands on the market.

Still, for the purposes of comparing this brand with Rolex, it’s not the better of the two brands for resale value and value retention. Many Rolex watches can double in value on the second-hand market if they’re deemed scarce or have a particularly appealing design feature that collectors crave.

However, the price of a VC watch is reflected in the level of craftsmanship and the intricacy of its many hand-applied finishes and highly complex features.

As a general rule, the RRP of a Vacheron Constantin watch is higher than that of a Rolex. However, investment-wise, Rolex watches retain their value better and can make for even greater family heirlooms.

Conclusion 

There is an admirable purity to what both Vacheron Constantin and Rolex do in the watchmaking world. Each brand is worthy of the respect it garners for very different reasons. While Vacheron Constantin is admired for its horological complexity and fine, time-honored practices, Rolex is the brand you would go to for a robust, iconic design that oozes style and status.

While Rolex is undoubtedly the most recognized watchmaker, those in the know are more than aware of the masterpieces that an old but lesser-known brand like Vacheron Constantin can produce. Collectors and fans of both respective brands are not first-time buyers.

But while a Rolex watch will appeal to someone who wants to show the world what they have achieved with a statement piece, a Vacheron Constantin collector is someone who enjoys a private type of luxury – a stealth wealth watch that, despite the materials and complexity behind its design, does not instantly smack of flashiness and ostentatiousness.

Settling the debate between Vacheron Constantin vs Rolex can only be done one way, by asking yourself what is important to you in a watch. In some ways, Vacheron Constantin can be considered the brand that makes better watches because of its high complications.

On the other hand, Rolex watches have better resale value and can make the best investments because of their ability to retain value and appreciate over time. VC isn’t as world famous as Rolex, but it does have over 150 years of extra experience in watch manufacturing compared to Rolex.

At the end of the day, you can’t go wrong with either of these watch brands. Both are respected and revered in the watchmaking world, and they have their own strengths and characteristics that stand for exceptional quality and craftsmanship.

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