Cartier Tank Must Showdown: Small vs. Large

Size matters, especially when you’re strapping on a watch as legendary as the Cartier Tank Must. And let’s be real, choosing between the Small and Large isn’t exactly easy.

On one hand, you want your watch to make an impression, so it fares to go big, right? But then you remember this is a dress watch, so the size should feel effortless, and comfortable, sitting just right without dominating your frame.

As someone who obsesses over watch sizes, and as a person with a relatively small wrist but a love for larger watches, I know how important it is to find the right balance. Too big, and it overwhelms your wrist but too small, and it might not give you the presence you want.

The Cartier Tank Must is all about proportions, elegance, and wearability, so choosing between the Small and Large comes down to more than just aesthetics. It’s about how it feels, how it fits, and how it complements your style. In this guide, I’ll break it all down to help you find your perfect match.

A Quick History of the Cartier Tank Must

The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watches of all time, a design that has barely changed since its creation in 1917. Inspired by the silhouette of military tanks viewed from above, its clean lines and rectangular shape broke away from the round pocket watches of the era. The Tank was revolutionary, not just in design but also in its philosophy.

It was a watch for everyone, worn by style icons, Hollywood stars, and royalty alike. Over the decades, Cartier introduced multiple variations, but in the 1970s, a new era of the Tank was born with the Must de Cartier, otherwise known as the Tank Must.

The 1970s were a turning point for the watch industry. With the rise of quartz movements, traditional mechanical watches were facing an identity crisis.

Cartier, known for its ultra-luxurious timepieces, saw an opportunity to create something more accessible while maintaining the brand’s signature elegance. Enter the Must de Cartier collection in 1977. Unlike its solid gold predecessors, the Tank Must featured gold-plated cases and quartz movements, making it a more affordable luxury.

Minimalist yet striking, the Cartier Tank Must was a departure from the ornate detailing of other Cartier timepieces. Many of the models had no numerals and indices, just a sleek dial and the classic sword-shaped hands.

The crown, still adorned with a blue cabochon, added a touch of unexpected flair. This balance of simplicity and boldness made the Tank Must an instant hit. It was a watch that felt luxurious but wasn’t out of reach which is a rare feat in high-end watchmaking.

Fast forward to 2021 and Cartier revived the Tank Must bringing back its signature minimalist aesthetic. The colorful lacquered dials returned as did many of the no-numeral dials. To this day, the collection stays true to the original Must ethos, remaining elegant, unisex, and effortlessly wearable.

The Cartier Tank Must Small

The Cartier Tank Must actually comes in three sizes: Small, Large, and Extra Large. The Extra Large is the only model equipped with an automatic movement, so today, we’re focusing on the two quartz-powered sizes, the Small and Large models, to help you decide which one suits you best.

The Cartier Tank Must Small measures 29.5mm by 22mm with a slim height of 6.6mm, making it the most compact and refined of the lineup.

Each model maintains the Tank’s signature aesthetic with its slim, polished rectangular case topped with sapphire crystal glass. And of course, they all feature the brand’s hallmark blue spinel cabochon set into the crown.

As of writing this article, the modern Tank Must Small offers four different variations, all sharing the same crisp white dial with black Roman numerals, blued sword-shaped hands, and an internal railway minutes track.

The most accessible model in the collection is the classic Small Tank Must on a black leather strap, powered by a traditional Swiss quartz movement. It’s elegant, understated, and a perfect introduction to the world of Cartier.

For those looking for something a little more innovative, there’s the Small Tank Must SolarBeat™. Debuting with the modern Tank Must collection, the SolarBeat™ movement is a groundbreaking photovoltaic-powered quartz caliber that uses light to recharge, offering an impressive 16-year battery life.

This means fewer battery changes and a more sustainable way to wear a luxury timepiece. Externally, this model looks identical to its traditional quartz counterpart but offers a more eco-conscious and forward-thinking movement inside.

For a touch of extra glamour, Cartier also offers the Small Tank Must with diamonds. This version retains the same SolarBeat™ movement but adds brilliant-cut diamonds along the case flanks, giving it a refined sparkle that elevates its presence on the wrist. It’s still classic but with an extra dose of elegance.

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Finally, the last model in the Small Tank Must collection swaps the traditional leather strap for a sleek stainless steel bracelet.

Also powered by the SolarBeat™ movement, this version blends the timeless Cartier aesthetic with a more contemporary and versatile metal bracelet, making it perfect for those who prefer a polished, everyday-wear look.

The Cartier Tank Large

If you’re considering the Cartier Tank Must Large, you have even more choices than with the Small model. Not only are there multiple dial colors, but also different dial layouts including those without any numerals or indices, a design I personally love. If you appreciate minimalism, this could be a big deciding factor for you.

First things first, all models labeled as “Large” share the same dimensions measuring to 33.7mm by 25.5mm, with a slim 6.6mm height. They’re all crafted from stainless steel, featuring the signature rectangular case, polished sides, and sapphire crystal glass.

Much like the Small variations, some of these Large models stick to the classic Cartier aesthetic, featuring the crisp white dial with black Roman numerals, blued steel hands, and an internal railway minute track.

One of these comes on a black leather strap, while another offers the same strap but with a touch of extra luxury, diamonds set along the flanks of the case. Two other options swap out the leather for a sleek stainless steel H-link bracelet.

For those looking for something a little more modern and sustainable, there are also versions that trade the traditional quartz movement for the photovoltaic SolarBeat™ movement. These models come in both leather strap and steel bracelet variations.

Then, we have the models that truly stand out. These are where Cartier embraces a more minimalist, yet boldly colorful approach. Unlike the traditional white dial versions, these pieces strip away the Roman numerals and railway track altogether, leaving just two sleek hands and the Cartier logo at 12 o’clock.

The effect is a strikingly clean design that feels both contemporary and timeless. These models feature lacquered dials in four stunning shades of burgundy red, emerald green, royal blue, and classic black.

Each dial is complemented by rhodium-finished steel sword-shaped hands and a semi-matte alligator leather strap in a matching color, secured with a steel ardillon buckle.

Interestingly, despite being larger in surface area than the Small model, these minimalist Large variations are actually the slimmest of all, with a height of just 6mm giving them an extra sleek, refined profile on the wrist.

Cartier Tank Must Small vs Large – How to Choose

So, now that we’ve gone over both models individually, how do they stack up against each other? If you’re stuck deciding between the Small and the Large, let’s break down the key differences to help you figure out which one’s the better fit for your wrist and your style.

Differences in Size and Proportions

Obviously, the most obvious difference is size. The Small measures 29.5mm by 22mm, while the Large comes in at 33.7mm by 25.5mm. That might not sound like a massive jump, but on the wrist, it’s noticeable. The Large also has a bit more presence, without tipping over into being oversized.

Another key factor is thickness. The classic white-dialled Small and Large versions are a little thicker at around 6.6mm, whereas the Large with the ultra-minimalist lacquered dials are even slimmer at just 6mm, giving them an extra sleek, refined look.

Differences in Design Options

While both sizes offer the classic Cartier silver-white dials with Roman numerals, blued hands, and polished steel cases, the Large model gives you a few more dial colours to choose from. If you love the traditional Cartier aesthetic, both sizes will work, but if you want something a little different, the Large has a few options that stand out.

Some feature no numerals at all, just clean dials with two hands and the Cartier logo, creating a minimalist, modern feel. This ultra-clean look, paired with lacquered dials in striking colors like burgundy, green, blue, and black, isn’t available in the Small size, making the Large the go-to if you want something bolder.

Differences in Movement

Both sizes come with traditional quartz movements and Cartier’s eco-friendly SolarBeat™ movement. So thankfully, there’s no difference here in terms of functionality.

You’ve got a choice of whether you want the classic quartz or the SolarBeat upgrade. That said, if you’ve got your heart set on an automatic movement, then you’ll have to explore the Cartier Tank Much Extra Large family for that.

Differences in Price

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Naturally, the Large models are slightly more expensive, typically by a couple of hundred dollars. In the grand scheme of Cartier pricing, that’s not a huge jump, but if you’re on the fence between the two sizes, it might be a factor worth considering.

The Small keeps things a little more budget-friendly, while the Large asks for a bit more, but also gives you extra dial options and a bigger presence on the wrist in return.

Which One is Right for You?

If you have a smaller wrist, prefer something more discreet, or just love the idea of a classic, timeless Cartier dress watch, the Cartier Tank Must Small is a fantastic choice. It’s elegant, refined, and fits beautifully under a cuff.

That said, if you want a little more presence, appreciate a slightly larger dial, or love the idea of those sleek, numeral-free color options, the Large is the way to go.

Conclusion

At the end of the day, both the Cartier Tank Must Small and Large are stunning options. You can’t really ever go wrong with a Cartier because these watches, no matter their size, are timeless, effortlessly stylish, and built with the kind of design language that has made them icons for over a century.

But when it comes down to choosing between them, there are two big factors that should guide your decision: the size of your wrist (and the presence you want the watch to have) and which dial design speaks to you the most.

For example, I have relatively small wrists at around 5.5 inches, so logically, the Cartier Tank Must Small would be the best fit for my frame. But I can’t help but love those bright lacquered dials with no numerals or indices on the Large models.

Those are what really call to me. They feel more aligned with my style, and I know I’d reach for them ten times more than the classic white dial with Roman numerals. So for me, that’s what would make the decision.

And that’s exactly how you should go about it, too. Consider the sizing, think about the designs you love, and decide what matters most to you. If you want something classic, understated, and perfectly proportioned for a smaller wrist, the Cartier Tank Must Small is a fantastic choice.

If you want something a little bolder, with a bit more presence and unique dial options, the Large is where it’s at. Either way, you’ll end up with a Cartier Tank on your wrist and that’s never a bad thing.