It isn’t necessarily difficult to find a mechanical watch under $1,000, but it’s more about finding the right quality. You get the benefit of reliable craftsmanship that doesn’t come with a retail price that’s out of range. The way I see it, mechanical watches under the $1,000 mark are a great option for the everyman.

Whether you’re a first-time buyer or consider yourself an enthusiast, you’d be surprised at how many quality timepieces you can find in this category. There’s definitely no shortage, but you want to get into the technical details before you start spending money.

From my perspective, every model listed in this article has the balance you need to validate the cost. Get a closer look at 16 of the best mechanical watches that you can find for under $1,000 right now.

Choosing the Right Mechanical Watch

If you aren’t familiar with the terminology, mechanical watches work off of a wound spring, but they can be automatic as well. That’s also the reason I find it so important to look into every layer of the design, so you know what you’re getting into.

Considering the price point, reliability is what I like to focus on most. I fully intend to keep the watches I buy for a lifetime, and that requires a decent amount of research. Personally, I’m a fan of hand-wound designs as it offers a more tactile experience.

Although the technical details matter, that doesn’t mean you should overlook style. Every timepiece mentioned in this article is bound to impress and surely doesn’t look cheap in any sense of the word.

Regardless of how much experience I have in the industry, I prefer to get into the fine details, as that’s what really sells a price tag for me. 

Best Mechanical Watches Under $1,000

In reality, there are definitely more than 16 stellar options on the market, but those mentioned in this article stood out for more than one reason. Over the years, I have definitely broken the bank just to get my hands on a nice watch, but that’s not what we’re doing here.

Don’t let the under $1,000 mark fool you, as each timepiece mentioned here looks far more expensive than it retailed for. Of course, this comes from personal opinion, but I wouldn’t throw just any mechanical in this list if I didn’t feel it was worth the buy.

1. Hamilton Field Mechanical 38mm (ref. H69439931)

Featuring a military-inspired design, the watch might look simple, but Hamilton knows a thing or two about functionality. It’s reminiscent of a 1960s soldier’s watch with a modern spin on the engineering.

You’re working with a hand-wound movement, an H-50 caliber, more specifically, on top of a sizable 80-hour power reserve.

I honestly love the field specs of this watch, as the brand definitely took a classic approach. This can be seen in the stainless steel 38mm case, with a bold black dial and durable NATO strap as well. In today’s world, the watch carries pop culture appeal, but don’t let that make you think it’s a gimmick.

The watch comes with scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and a noticeable 50-meter water resistance. I’m personally not a fan of bulkier watches, so the slim 9.5mm thickness of this design works perfectly for me.

For the price point, you’re facing $625 out of the door, and it’s yours.

2. Seiko Prospex Sea “King Turtle” (ref. SRPE03)

Built to be adventure-ready, this particular model is geared towards water-sport enthusiasts. It’s a popular and affordable choice for those who like diver watches, and it meets 200-meter ISO standards for water resistance.

Although this might sound pretty normal, I like to highlight the reliability of the screw-down crown and caseback.

Durable construction matters, too, as it can be felt in the 45mm stainless steel case and bold and black ceramic rotating bezel. The sapphire crystal is anti-reflective, which can be pretty crucial in the water.

For those looking for easy readability and bold wrist presence, this is a timepiece that’ll stand out. On my end, it’s always the internal that I’m the most interested in.

An example of this would be the movement that’s being used. The King Turtle works off of a 4R36 automatic caliber movement, which includes 24 impressive jewels. More importantly, it promises a 41-hour power reserve, which can be automatically or manually wound.

Affordability is the name of the game here, and the watch will only run you $625.

3. Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm (ref. T137.407.11.041.00)

With a Powermatic 80 automatic movement, this translates to an 80-hour power reserve and a patented Nivachron hairspring.

In short, you’re getting more than enough precision and anti-magnetism here. I’m very much inspired by the retro-design choices, as the watch has some similarities to the original Tissot case design from 1978.

The 40mm case is a great middle-ground for most people, and its thickness sits just under 11mm. I can’t deny the aesthetics of this watch, but that isn’t the only thing that matters. Thankfully, Tissot delivers a high-quality build with 316L stainless steel on top of a tonneau-shaped case.

I’d also like to point out the bracelet, as I’m a huge fan of butterfly clasps. What you’re looking at in this watch is Swiss-made reliability, which is hard to question if you ask me.

Between 100m water resistance, a beautiful see-through case back, and everyday reliability, the PRX Powermatic is a winning choice in my book.

When it comes to the price, all you have to swing is $775, and it’s yours.

4. Hermétique Tourer Blue (ref. N/A)

Stemming from the Hermétique collection, the Tourer Blue stands out amongst the other colorways, if you ask me. What I appreciate is that they didn’t get too bold with the color choice, and it blends very well with the surrounding steel.

Another watch that keeps exploration in mind, you’re getting 150-meter water resistance and an integrated crown for ambidextrous usability. Even better, the watch boasts double-dome sapphire, so you won’t be easily breaking this one. 

It may not be hard to come by, but legible design is a crucial focal point and one that I’m pretty critical about. This watch meets the standard with a matte finish on the dial, polished syringe-style hands, and Super-Luminova BGW9 for bright visibility.

You can choose between an FKM rubber strap or stainless steel for a better match. This makes it a perfect option for indoor and outdoor environments.

The cost for this one sits at $632.50, making it more than reasonable for everyday wear.

5. Citizen Promaster Fujitsubo Super Titanium (ref. NB6021-17E)

Another diver’s watch that’s worth the attention is the Promaster Fujitsubo from Citizen, which takes inspiration from their 1977 Challenge Diver. Considering this watch will continue to tick after extensive water exposure, you’ll feel like you never have to take it off.

The watch works off of an in-house automatic Caliber 9051. This comes with a 42-hour power reserve and the mechanical quality you’re looking for.

I was actually pretty surprised at how protected this watch is inside and out. What I mean by this is the sapphire crystal, antimagnetic resistance, and 16,000 A/m will have your back for a long time.

If you consider yourself somewhat of a collector, this is a great model to add to your lineup. It ships in a dive tank box and boasts a very classic appeal that’ll never go out of style. Those who like to get in the water can rely on the 200m water resistance and durable black polyurethane strap.

A little pricer than some others on this list, the Promaster Fujitsubo remains affordable at $825.

6. Seagull 1963 38mm (ref. N/A)

For this watch, you’re looking at a mechanical chronograph watch with a very vintage appeal to its design. I can’t deny that the simplicity of this watch is what makes me want one for myself.

It operates with a Seagull ST19 hand-winding movement, which is also based on the Swiss Venus 175. I always have to look for it, and I was happy to learn the movement includes 21 gorgeous jewels.

Add on the fact you’re getting 21,600 BPH and a 42-hour power reserve, and the watch can easily last a lifetime. It’s important to note there’s quite a bit of historical significance here. For starters, the watch is inspired by the first military aviation watch in China. 

Other important technical details include a reliable 316L stainless steel case, 47mm lug-to-lug length, and a 3 ATM water resistance rating. The 12.7mm thickness is a bit much for me personally, but it offers a good balance to the rest of the specs.

The price point is hard to argue with, as you can grab this watch for only $382.

7. Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Spider (ref. 32023A09)

The first thing I noticed about this watch is its silver sunray dial, which features eight “spider leg” lines. Flaring from the center of the watch, this is one of the most unique details about the watch if you ask me.

I’m also loving the fact that they went with the classic Dauphine hands and vintage reissue of the rare 1970s Nivada Grenchen model.

While the movement is pretty standard here, that doesn’t mean you won’t get reliability. It’s a Swiss-made Soprod P024 automatic movement with a screw-down crown. The build itself is pretty refined, featuring a 38mm stainless steel case, 11.1mm thickness, and the 20mm lug width is pretty reasonable if you ask me.

Durability takes a modern approach with this watch as it promises 100m water resistance and a double-domed sapphire crystal. I’m actually pretty glad they’re versatile with the strap options on this model. Whether you prefer leather, flat link, or even rice bead design, you have several to choose from.

Sitting closely under the $1,000 mark, the Antarctic Spider retails for $945.

8. Formex Field Automatic 40mm (ref. 0660.1.6543.723)

I always have respect for a 40mm case, as it looks sturdy but not too bold for my skinnier wrists. This Field Automatic from Formex is built with the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, which comes with 26 jewels, a clear date display, and a 41-hour power reserve. Even better, this particular movement can easily be serviced in most parts of the world if needed.

You won’t have any issues with legibility, and I’m a pretty big fan of the sandwich-style dial features. Recessed numerals offer some depth to the dial, and I’d encourage anyone to appreciate the vintage Super-LumiNova.

The watch is resistant to water up to 150m, and the construction of the watch makes it viable for outdoor treks. From tool-free strap options to the overall focus on physical comfort, Formex found a great middle ground of luxury, affordability, and comfort.

Sitting pretty close to the $1,000 limit, the Field Automatic from Formex is available for $995.

9. BOLDR Venture Wayfarer-Khaki (ref. N/A)

Featuring a 24-hour sundial design, this affordable watch from BOLDR is one that I feel shouldn’t be overlooked. Paying homage to the vintage 24-hour design, it definitely caters to the outdoor crowd. More specifically, anyone who operates outside of normal day/night cycles could easily wear this watch all day. 

Legibility won’t ever be an issue with this model, and it’s more than adventure-ready with the promise of 200m water resistance. Once again, I was reeled in by the choice of a matt dial. Regarding the movement, it’s a Miyota 8217 automatic and can be hand-wound as well.

Although I can understand why people love stainless steel, I would roll with titanium every single time. This watch boasts a lightweight titanium case.

Even with the 12mm thickness, 38mm case, and 44mm lug to lug size, the watch doesn’t feel as big as it looks. One caveat to consider is that this Venture Wayfarer includes a tough nylon strap, a material that isn’t necessarily my first choice.

If this sounds like it would be fitting for your collection, there isn’t much holding you back at $339.

10. Traska Freediver Carbon Black (ref. 1187)

What really struck a chord with me about this watch is its generally robust construction of it. For the most part, this is seen not only in the 316L stainless steel but also in the special hardening treatment it has received. Don’t worry about knocking your wrist on counters or door frames; this watch can take it.

Aside from that, it’s a great watch for people who prefer boxed sapphire crystal instead of the standard circular style. Even with the double-domed sapphire, you won’t have to worry about light messing with your view.

You get a pretty standard movement here, but a reliable one at that. I’m easily sold on the Japanese Miyota 9039 movement, but this doesn’t come with date information.

However, if you opt for the Miyota 9019, you’ll get a date window. It’s a comfortable watch that promises a higher quality than what’s seen on the surface level.

I have to say the price is pretty modest too, sitting at $705 and even cheaper if you go pre-owned.

11. Flygraf Flieger French Air Force (ref. YFLY24AA-AAS)

Maybe I’m biased due to my family’s history, but I always have respect for a quality military-inspired timepiece. More specifically, this Flygraf Flieger French Air Force watch is a direct collaboration with the French Air and Space Force.

Due to this alone, you’re looking at a timepiece wristwatch that you can rely on for the rest of your life. It even comes with official French military markings and a lightweight titanium case, which is a winning choice for me.

The dial is a beautiful piece of work featuring sword-shaped hands, Arabic numerals, and a sandwich-style triangle at the 12 o’clock position.

Even better, the watch includes an in-house YEMA2000 movement, which is a mechanical and automatic movement featuring 29 individual jewels. Although you don’t get an exhibition caseback here, the titanium construction makes up for it in my opinion. 

The price point is more than reasonable, asking $990 brand new.

12. Lorier Falcon Series III (ref. N/A)

Channeling the vibe of mid-century explorer watches, the Lorier Falcon Series III is one you’ll want to be proactive with. It features a classic 3-6-9 dial layout, and the vintage styling makes it easily legible.

Refinement is an important focal point here, highlighting a versatile black/silver honeycomb dial and a more ergonomic Ternion bracelet.

What I really appreciate about this watch is the middle ground they created between vintage and modern styles. Don’t let the 316L marine-grade stainless steel make you think this watch is anything but average.

You get a decent 100m water resistance and the dome Hesalite crystal, which really adds to the vintage aesthetic.

Of course, you get a Miyota 90S5 automatic movement with hand-wound capabilities. The mechanical nature allows you to be a lot more hands-on with the watch, which is something I’m always looking for. 

I honestly expected a higher price tag for this watch based on the description, but it will be available here soon for $499.

13. Baltic HMS 002 Silver (ref. HMS 002)

A combination of 1940s Baltic elegance and modern Art Deco style, the HMS 002 dons a sandblasted texture on the dial.

The polished leaf-shaped hands complement this, and the contrasting brushed sector dial is a beauty to look at. I have always appreciated a 38mm case, and the design is meant to support those with more active lifestyles.

It still carries a very professional look, but this watch isn’t meant to reside only in the office. It features 316L stainless steel and a 13mm thick case, so durability isn’t really much of a concern for me.

If you still aren’t sold on it, consider the benefits of the Miyota 8315 movement with a 60-hour power reserve.

What I really love about this watch is that you get the option of either a closed or exhibition case back. For me, I’m choosing the open caseback every time.

Other notable and practical features you should know about include 50-meter water resistance, a beautifully engraved crown, and multiple strap options. For the best possible match to the case design, I highly suggest going for the Italian calf leather strap.

Considering there’s so much to appreciate about this watch, it makes the price of $414 entirely worth it.

14. Vero Open Water 41 – Daybreak (ref. N/A)

With a 41mm case that’s matte bead-blasted and made of 316L stainless steel, you’re getting style and durability all in one. The Open Water 41 from Vero, as you might expect, caters to those who can appreciate a solid diver’s watch.

You can rely on its rugged performance, and it’s powered by a movement previously mentioned, the Sellita SW-200-1 automatic.

Falling into the mechanical movement category, it’s another timepiece that’s built for those who like being hands-on. Since it’s crafted with divers in mind, legibility will never be an issue here either.

I’d consider this watch to look relatively modest on the surface, and although orange isn’t my color, it definitely makes the dial noticeable.

More specifically, case dimensions are sitting at a 40mm width, including 11mm thickness and 20mm lug width. If you ask me, I’d say this is pretty versatile, making it a viable choice for many different types of people and style preferences.

Based on what you’re getting, I’d say the cost of $890 is pretty reasonable here.

15. Dan Henry 1970 Automatic Diver (ref. N/A)

First and foremost, I have to point out that this is a limited edition diver from Dan Henry. Aside from the multiple colorways available, the deep black looks the best to me. There are only 1,970 pieces made, hence the name, which gives the watch plenty of long-term value.

Most of the specs on this watch are pretty standard, but the 14.8mm thickness definitely stood out to me. Inside the watch, you’ll find a Japan-caliber NH35 automatic movement, but that doesn’t count out its hand-wound capabilities.

The water resistance rating sits at 200 meters, and you can easily switch between a canvas leather or rubber strap. Versatility isn’t hard to find with this timepiece, and the cost makes it all feel much more worth it.

To be completely honest, reading about this watch made me expect a bit of a higher price tag, but I was definitely wrong.

This diver’s watch from Dan Henry is retailing for $310 right now.

16. Marathon 34mm Black GPM Type II Field Mechanical (ref. 6645-00-066-4279)

Delivering a military-grade feel and built to U.S. MIL-PRF-46374G standards, this watch is crafted to go to work for you. Between general reliability and functionality, this watch is meant to be used on a daily basis.

You’re getting a mechanical movement with the Seiko NH35A, which includes 24 jewels but no date complication. There isn’t much water resistance here, but you do get a legible and tactical diversity.

To highlight this further, I’m talking about titanium gas tube illumination and 12 to 24-hour scales. I was also pretty impressed with the case, which is 34mm in size and made of high-impact composite fibreshell.

The watch is pretty modest with its dimensions, but it doesn’t lack when it comes to durability and even weight distribution. 

Of course, I have to respect the price point as it doesn’t get much better than $382.50, making it more than accessible to most watch lovers.

Let’s wrap up

Finding the perfect mechanical watch isn’t always a linear decision-making process. Whether it’s focusing on every layer of the design or finding a reliable retailer, I advise anyone to take their time and ask questions.

The biggest win here is that every one of these watches is affordable, without compromising on long-term quality. Your best bet to land a mechanical watch that aligns with you is by speaking with reputable industry-dedicated retailers, such as Exquisite Timepieces.

That’s how you get your hands on the details and discover the confidence that can be hard to find through spec sheets alone.

Introduction

Watchmaking is a craft that’s meant to be felt, above all else. From the delicate touch of a watchmaker’s tweezers to the exquisite heft of a watch held loosely in-hand, the experience of a watch is something you need to have in person as much as possible all the way down the line of production from assembly to purchase.

Or at least, that’s the ideal. But if you’re like me, that’s not so much an option. Personally, I’m in a bit of watchmaking landlock (it’s over 200 miles to the nearest dedicated watch store). Some of us, however unfortunate it may be, must resort to looking for our next dream watch online.

If you’re in the same boat, we might as well swap notes. Let’s walk through the best places to find watches online, as well as what you should be looking for and keeping in mind as you go. It may not be ideal, but you can still find your next dream piece online if you approach it properly.

What to Know for Buying Watches Online

Buying watches online is a more difficult process than you might think. Don’t get me wrong, it’s the easiest thing in the world to fork over a couple hundred (or thousand) dollars to a website online and hope and pray that you get a watch in the next few days that is both authentic and looks remotely like the pictures in the listing.

But if you’re not into the idea of paying for an authentic watch and getting a fake… you might want to handle it more carefully.

One of the first things you’ll want to look at is if the website you’re buying from is an authorized dealer. This should be pretty apparent on their website and should be clearly expressed.

If it’s not, chances are they’re not getting their stock directly from the watchmaker. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing, per se, but it does increase the risk a little bit when you move from the white market (authorized dealers) to the gray (secondhand).

If you’re looking at a watch from a well-known authorized dealer, you’re golden. No more research needed!

However, let’s say you’re taking a look at something a little more risky, like eBay. With so many sellers who clearly aren’t selling directly from the company, you’ve got quite a bit more to consider.

First, how are the pictures? If all the images are grainy and unclear, it’s likely that either the seller is extremely inexperienced (red flag) or trying to hide something related to the watch’s condition or authenticity (major red flag). Unless you’ve got a very experienced eye, you’ll want to skip over anything in this category. 

Next, how experienced is the seller? Is the watch listed on a website that’s been around for a while or by an eBay seller who has a lot of positive ratings? Are the pictures professional and clean-looking? These are all significant green flags that make any watch listing far more attractive.

After looking at the pictures and the seller’s experience, be sure to actually read the listing and all provided information about the watch.

A professional dealer will include notes about the watch’s condition and anything else you should be aware of like its provenance. The absence of any of these details can be a red flag, so be sure to keep your eyes peeled for every little detail.

The 15 Best Places to Buy Watches Online

Okay, with that breakdown complete, let’s get into the list! I’ll be evaluating each of these dealers and websites according to the same criteria that I said you should be paying attention to earlier.

Let me also note that these are in no particular order, since each site will have its pros and cons and many will also have entirely different selections and focuses. As such, make sure you stick around to the end to make sure you’ve found all the best options for your future watch shopping!

Exquisite Timepieces

How could I start anywhere else? Your favorite watch dealer and blog is a great place to buy your next luxury watch, and you’re even already on our website reading this anyways.

ETP is a full authorized dealer for over 60 brands, so you know that you’re getting perfectly authentic and brand-new watches.

Their catalog is well-developed and well-suited to match the tastes of any collector, from smaller independent brands like Atelier Wen and GoS to many of the largest brands like Tudor and Omega.

On top of the extremely extensive authorized catalog, ETP also features an extensive pre-owned section with fully authenticated watches from even more brands than are offered new to sale.

It only takes a moment of looking through the pre-owned catalog for any experienced collector to realize just how extensive and reasonably-priced it is.

I know I write this with not a little bit of bias, and you might be rolling your eyes at my glowing praise of what I consider to be the finest watch dealer out there, but I encourage you to take a look through ETP’s website for yourself to examine it based on the criteria I set forth earlier. I guarantee you won’t be disappointed.

eBay

After ETP, I want to get this one out of the way. eBay is a bit of a controversial home for watch selling. Anyone can list almost anything, which means eBay abounds with fakes, homages, and poorly-running watches.

That said, if you’re willing to brave the dangers, you can get some pretty high-quality watches, and especially lovely vintage pieces. More than anywhere else, you’ll want to examine each listing carefully.

The old adage “buy the seller” is king: find experienced sellers with lots of positive ratings and who primarily sell watches, and you should be safe. eBay’s new Authenticity Guarantee also comes in handy, but it’s notably had some flaws and you won’t want to rely on that alone.

If you handle it well, eBay is one of the best places to buy older watches. It’s okay for new stuff too, but there’s such a high volume of watches that pass through eBay that almost anything will turn up eventually if you set a saved search for it. Just be careful! It’s a world of fakes and scams out there.

Watches of Switzerland

With Watches of Switzerland, we’re safely out of the risky secondhand world of eBay once more and back firmly ensconced into the realm of authorized dealers. WOS is definitely one of the finest in this category, if size and scope are any measure of quality and success (they are).

They’ve got over 50 brands ranging from affordable (Tissot, Tudor) to ultra-high-end (Bovet, HYT, Patek Philippe). Notably, WOS also features quite a few brands that you’ll have a hard time finding anywhere else, like MB&F, William Wood, and ID Genève.

Notably, WOS also claims to have the largest selection of vintage and pre-owned anywhere on the web. That’s nothing to sneeze at, and they back it up with listings for some of the greatest watches of all time like a Cartier Crash and Patek Philippe Calatrava Cloisonné.

Each one of these watches is thoroughly authenticated and also comes with a two-year warranty. It’s definitely one of the very best options out there for both vintage and new.

Chrono24

Chrono24 is a massive marketplace for luxury watches, featuring over 9 million users every single month and a not-insignificant 4.8/5 score on TrustPilot. Like eBay, Chrono24 features watches sold by their owners, but it’s a much safer place to both buy and sell.

As a buyer, payment is only transferred 14 days after you actually receive the watch to both ensure that 1) you get the chance to see it in person and 2) you actually even get a watch at all before the seller gets their due. If anything isn’t as it was described in the listing, you can send it back.

That’s a serious level of protection, and it helps to make Chrono24 one of the most trusted places to buy and sell watches that aren’t directly from a dealer.

Think of it like eBay, but safer. Plus, their 22 years of experience speak most eloquently of all to the safety and trust behind this program. It’s hard to ask for anything more than that!

Teddy Baldassarre

Teddy Baldassarre is the eponymous creation of its founder, an independent watch influencer who has over time grown his company into a massive community with both a well-respected blog.

Today, TEDDY is an authorized dealer for over 40 brands that has also retained a huge social media presence (over 2 million followers!). One of the strongest impressions I have from scouring the website is that it’s one of the most beginner-friendly ways to buy a watch.

There’s always a real person waiting to act as a virtual assistant if you have any questions, and their catalog features quite a few quality entry-level brands like Bulova, DOXA, and Frederique Constant.

That said, there’s still a significant place given to very high-quality watches on the website with brands like Zenith, Omega, and Grand Seiko. It’s a great place to get into watches and a great place to get your hands on any number of curated and affordable pieces that are just begging for a place in your collection.

Pride & Pinion

For the brainchild of YouTube’s most aggressive watch dealer, Nico Leonard, Pride & Pinion is a surprisingly low-key way to buy a watch. Their website is clean and modern, without overly trying to sell you things while still being sure to bring some of their best watches to your attention.

Interestingly, they’re only authorized dealers for four watch brands. In a sense, you could argue that this helps them branch out more into anything and everything that catches the eye of their curating team.

Regardless, you can rest assured that everything they offer has been thoroughly authenticated by the experts running the place, and there’s also a 14-day window to request a return after receiving your watch if everything isn’t quite as you’d hoped.

In terms of the catalog and offerings, there are some seriously spectacular watches available for sale here, from a Richard Mille GMT Flyback Chronograph to a stunning rose gold Patek Philippe Nautilus, and not a few vintage options thrown into the mix just for kicks.

The pictures are professional and comprehensive, and everything about the website instills a great sense of confidence in finding your next timepiece. It’s definitely one of the best options out there!

The 1916 Company

Formerly known as WatchBox, The 1916 Company is another one of the most well-known and well-trusted dealers in the watch market today.

They’ve got 31 authorized brands, and that number includes a large proportion of the very finest ones out there, like Cartier, Breguet, Grand Seiko, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, and more. In particular, you should note the presence of De Bethune in their catalog.

As a smaller brand, De Bethune isn’t commonly offered by dealers. Significantly, The 1916 Company doesn’t just sell their watches but actually owns a controlling stake in De Bethune, so they put some serious priority behind each of their available watches.

That’s just a little side note, but you’ll definitely want to come here to purchase any De Bethune you might have your eyes on.

With sales for both new and pre-owned watches and excellent high-quality pictures from every angle for each listing, you’ve got all the boxes checked and this dealer passes with flying colors.

It’s just another one of those dealers that’s just great. Nothing too much in particular that stands out for me to comment on, because they’re at the top of their game and doing everything right. A+!

The Hour Glass

Based out of Singapore, The Hour Glass has far and away one of the very best-curated catalogs of watches I’ve ever seen. Independent brands like Akrivia, Daniel Roth, Krayon, and Sarpaneva rub shoulders with industry giants like Ulysse Nardin, TAG Heuer, Omega, Panerai, and Rolex.

And honestly, that in itself is insane. Almost every other dealer you’ll see leans hard one way or the other on the spectrum of brand size. It’s either all microbrands or all giant companies—there’s rarely any in-between. That’s a line that The Hour Glass straddles perfectly.

Their curated catalogs for both F.P. Journe and BVLGARI exist alongside each other, each one complementing the other without feeling like either is underrepresented. And the same is true for each of its brands.

It’s hard to imagine a more perfectly balanced catalog steeped in the intricacies of watch collecting than the one offered to any discerning collector by The Hour Glass.

Watchfinder & Co

Thanks to its founding date in 2002, Watchfinder & Co is one of the more long-running retailers out there, and its experience shows. Like Chrono24, anyone can buy or sell on Watchfinder, so they primarily target pre-owned watches.

Unlike Chrono24, everything is mediated directly through Watchfinder—you’re not buying from the seller, you’re buying it from Watchfinder after they’ve bought it from them.

Every listing is adorned with high-quality images, and even better than that, each watch is inspected by certified watchmakers to determine its condition and performance. Plus, the whole operation is owned by Richemont, the conglomerate behind brands like IWC and Cartier, so you can be confident that it’s authentic, well-funded, and here to stay.

Ahmed Seddiqi

As the most renowned retailer in the UAE, Ahmed Seddiqi’s 75 years of experience and steady growth from a single store put it firmly in a class of its own.

In fact, it’s a bit of an understatement to just call them a retailer: Ahmed Seddiqi is also the powerhouse behind Dubai Watch Week, an extremely popular event frequented by collectors and prestigious watchmakers alike.

Their catalog is just as you’d expect from such a prestigious and renowned retailer: 82 brands from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet to Greubel Forsey and Konstantin Chaykin provide a look into what’s important to Ahmed Seddiqi. That is to say, everything.

That’s exactly the type of collector who fits in well here. The one who approaches watches with a sort of wide-eyed admiration and appreciation even as he or she picks at fine details and unpacks the nuance of every choice made. I don’t know about you, but that’s exactly the type of passion for watches that I admire most.

Auction Houses

The best watch auction houses out there might not be retailers like all the other options on this list, but they are still some of the best places to buy watches online.

Thanks to the wide diversity of auction houses and their material, you can get your hands both on more affordable watches at great prices as well as ultra grail watches that hardly ever come to market.

If you’re the type of collector who’s got your eye on a “Paul Newman” Rolex Daytona, for example, there’s no better place to look than the catalog of Christie’s, Phillips, or Sotheby’s. For more affordable pre-owned watches, check out Jones & Horan, Bonham’s, and Fontaine’s, among others.

Plus, if you’re the type of nerd (like me) who loves to check out retailers just to see what the best stuff on the market is, there’s no better place to do that than past auction listings. Everything passes through their hands, so who knows? You just might find your next grail without even looking for it.

Bob’s Watches

Founded in 1999 as an online-only retailer for watches, with a special focus on Rolex, Bob’s Watches is one of the best places to buy preowned watches with absolute confidence in their authenticity and price.

Every watch they offer is certified by Watch Certification Services of America, the leading database and authority for identifying stolen and fake watches.

Their list of brands, admittedly, is somewhat more restrained than most of the others—just 11 options are featured, but Bob’s hits all the big names like Rolex, Cartier, and Patek so you’ll almost certainly be able to find what you’re looking for.

Plus, if you’re not quite sure what you’re looking at or whether the you’re interested in is a good purchase, they’ve got a huge list of resources to help you break down everything from the model’s history to its comparison to other watches to even its care after you buy it. Now that is a comprehensive buying experience!

Bucherer/Tourneau

I’ve made quite a big deal about experience thus far in the article. After all, it is one of the best indicators of quality and enduring appeal in this industry.

But just about every other brand here is absolutely blown out of the water by Bucherer in that regard, thanks to its founding date of 1888.

As a Swiss brand with over 66 stores worldwide, you’ve got a clear and globe-spanning emphasis on luxury and hospitality, but it doesn’t stop there.

Bucherer also bought Tourneau, an American company born in 1900, in 2018, adding to its portfolio of timeless experience.

It was itself then bought by Rolex in 2023, so all that experience now has the big guns of the world’s largest watchmaking company behind it.

Featuring 40 brands, Bucherer and Tourneau offer a wide selection of watches from the finest maisons, and pair it with an extensive and fully certified pre-owned program.

No need to verify everything here, as Bucherer can certainly be trusted, but there are still extensive pictures of each watch so you can get a great look at each one’s quality. You can tell they’ve had 137 years to get it right, and at this point, it’s just about perfect.

Lunar Oyster

Lunar Oyster is a much lesser-known retailer focused on offering you the very finest vintage and pre-owned watches imaginable.

This is, in my opinion, the perfect place to go for any discerning vintage collector with a deep pocketbook. Do yourself a favor and take a look through their listings: everything is perfectly calculated to have you drooling.

They’ve got everything from a 1958 Omega Ranchero to an unpolished 1993 Rolex Daytona to independent offerings like F.P. Journe, Urban Jurgensen, Laurent Ferrier, and Roger W. Smith.

There are no authorized dealer agreements here, admittedly, but you can buy with extreme confidence thanks to the gorgeous and high-definition photography that accompanies each listing. Seriously, you could frame some of these pictures on your wall.

It’s clear that these watches are offered by a talented expert, as the images not only feature the important parts of the watch like the dial and caseback but also show all of the hallmarks and any slight blemishes with clarity, so you know exactly what you’re getting. Vintage at its finest!

Analog/Shift

If anyone could give Lunar Oyster a run for their money, it’s these guys. Where the former, as a small company, is forced to focus on a small, carefully curated selection of exquisite vintage watches, Analog/Shift has created a shockingly extensive catalog of vintage watches in nearly perfect condition from a wide variety of brands.

There’s also something for every budget here, which will make your wallet just as happy as you are—try, for example, their current listing for a Bulova Accutron in perfect shape at just $995, or a quirky Universal Genève “Bathtub” for just shy of $2,000.

Their images are extensive and highly professional, capturing each watch in a variety of lights and angles, and each one is accompanied with a brief but thorough description of the model’s history. For curated vintage watches all across the price spectrum, Analog/Shift is the place to go.

Conclusion

Whatever you’re looking for, whether new or vintage, pre-owned or untouched, there’s a retailer out there to meet your needs.

Each one has their own advantages and their own specialties, so whether you’re searching for a great deal on a Certified Pre-Owned Rolex or for an antique Breguet triple calendar, one of these retailers will suit you just fine. Happy hunting!

When it comes to variety, few brands can rival IWC Schaffhausen. Their lineup is one of the most extensive in the industry, having dipped their toes in just about every genre you can think of.

Most people know them for their iconic Pilot’s watches, but IWC also nails the dress watch game with the Portugieser and Portofino as well as proving prowess with high-performance sports and dive watches with the Ingenieur and Aquatimer. There’s a lot to choose from.

So that raises the question: which IWC models are actually the best to buy right now? After spending hands-on time with pretty much the entire IWC collection over the years, I feel confident sharing which ones truly stand out.

So whether you’re a first-time buyer or a seasoned collector, these are the 21 IWC watches that, in my opinion, deserve your attention.

Who Are IWC Schaffhausen & Why Are They Worth Your Wrist?

IWC Schaffhausen has one of those fascinating origin stories that makes you appreciate the brand even more. Founded all the way back in 1868 by American watchmaker Florentine Ariosto Jones, IWC started out crafting beautifully ornate pocket watches in Switzerland.

But like many great watch brands, their path shifted with experience. By the 1940s, with war on Europe’s doorstep, IWC turned its focus to building tough, highly legible, no-nonsense tool watches for pilots. And just like that, a new legacy was born.

Today, IWC is still best known for their Pilot’s Watches, but that’s far from the whole picture. Their modern lineup includes elegant dress pieces like the Portugieser and Portofino, serious tool watches like the Aquatimer and Ingenieur, and even high-complication masterpieces that show off their horological talent.

So, why are they worth your wrist? Because few brands can move so confidently between rugged and refined, sporty and sophisticated. It’s not an easy thing to master without losing your whole personality, and yet IWC do it, and they do it well.

The Best IWC Watches You Can Buy in 2025

With such a wide-ranging catalogue, narrowing down the best IWC watches isn’t exactly easy, especially when so many models bring something unique to the table. But after plenty of hands-on time with the collection, I’ve picked out the standouts: the pieces that truly embody what IWC does best.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41

The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 is everything you love about classic aviation watches, just trimmed down, tuned up, and made infinitely more wearable.

Inspired by the utilitarian cockpit instruments of WWII, this model keeps the flieger DNA intact but adds modern finesse. The 41mm case, reduced down from previous 43mm versions, hits that sweet spot for everyday comfort, while still delivering full-on wrist presence.

Inside, it’s powered by IWC’s in-house 69385 caliber, a robust, column-wheel chronograph movement with day-date complication, 46 hours of power reserve, and a sapphire caseback so you can admire the engineering.

The sunburst blue or green dial options bring just enough flair to keep things interesting without straying from its tool-watch roots. Legibility is excellent, naturally, and the quick-release strap system is a slick, practical upgrade.

Prices start from $7,400

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler

A technical evolution of one of IWC’s most cult-status designs, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler is a tribute to a piece first imagined in 2003 by then-apprentice Markus Bühler.

He created a turbine-themed prototype that took flight with a 12-piece run in 2008 and now fifteen years later, Bühler revisits his own legacy, this time merging the signature turbine with a fully integrated flying tourbillon.

Crafted from lightweight titanium, the 12-blade turbine isn’t just decorative but acts as the tourbillon cage, rotating with a red-dot seconds indicator at 6 o’clock.

It also presents a polished platinum and downsized 43mm case which houses IWC’s in-house calibre 82905 with an 80 hour power reserve and Diamond Shell-coated escapement.

Fitted with a Cordovan strap and Bühler’s signature hidden underneath, this 51-piece limited edition is a real collector’s item.

Price starts from $131,000

IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX

IWC are pretty good at the silent release, where they don’t even bother with a press release or a marketing campaign, and instead just quietly drop a new watch onto their website.

The Mark XX was one of these under-the-radar launches, slipping into the lineup without fanfare. But despite the stealthy debut, it turned out to be a significant update to a classic model.

The case proportions were refined, the dial slightly tweaked, and most importantly, IWC finally fitted it with an in-house automatic movement and bumped the power reserve to an impressive 120 hours.

It quietly became one of the best everyday pilot’s watches on the market, offering all you want in a comfortable, high-quality luxury pilot’s watch including a 100 meter water resistance and lume on a range of dial – the crisp white of model IW328207 being my personal favourite.

Price starts from $5,250

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63

It’s a watch you’ll either love or hate, but for me, I love it. The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 is a bold collaboration between IWC and Mercedes-AMG, blending high-performance engineering with horological innovation.

Inspired by the iconic G-Class SUV, its 46.5mm case is crafted from a groundbreaking Ceramic Matrix Composite (CMC), developed over ten years with the German Aerospace Center. This material is ultra-lightweight, scratch-resistant, and highly durable.

The dial mimics the AMG’s air intakes, featuring a unique bi-compax layout with a 7-day power reserve indicator and small seconds.

Inside beats IWC’s in-house caliber 52010, boasting a full week of power thanks to its Pellaton winding system. Finished with a black rubber strap and subtle AMG branding on the caseback, this watch is as much a statement piece as it is a technical marvel.

Price starts from $47,400

IWC Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince”

IWC’s connection with Le Petit Prince goes beyond just a pretty blue dial. It’s a heartfelt tribute to Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the pioneering aviator and beloved author of The Little Prince.

This motif has since become a cherished hallmark of IWC’s special editions, blending literary magic with aviation heritage and the Timezoner Edition “Le Petit Prince” carries that tradition beautifully.

There are several Pilot’s Le Petit Prince models worth your attention, but this one stands out for IWC’s patented Timezoner function, a clever bezel mechanism that lets you change time zones instantly by pressing and rotating the bezel.

No fiddling with the crown, no stopping the watch, just pure Swiss ingenuity that’s perfect for travelers. The 46mm stainless steel case houses the in-house Caliber 82760 and the sunray blue dial matches all too perfectly with the warm brown leather strap.

Price starts from $14,200

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

And with that, here’s another stunning tribute to Le Petit Prince, this time from IWC’s iconic Big Pilot’s family, a collection that needs no introduction for lovers of bold, beautifully engineered pilot’s watches.

This watch celebrates the pilot-author’s legacy with a rich blue ceramic case paired with elegant 5N gold accents and a highly complex perpetual calendar and tourbillon complication.

Featuring IWC’s in-house Caliber 51950, it combines a perpetual calendar that’s as reliable as it is poetic, displaying date, day, month, and even a moon phase with the Little Prince himself perched on his asteroid, a function that will only need correction once every 577 years.

Topping it all off is a flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock, a mechanical marvel that not only looks spectacular but helps regulate the watch’s accuracy. Keep in mind this is a big, commanding watch at 46.5mm and over 16mm thick.

Price starts from $113,000

IWC Portugieser Automatic 40

This one’s a staple for IWC and their flagship dress watch in my opinion, the refined, understated, and quietly elegant Portugieser Automatic 40 is the modern interpretation of the brand’s original ref. 325 from the 1930s.

It keeps the essentials like the bold Arabic numerals, a sub-seconds dial at 6, and a clean, balanced layout but updates it with modern movements and dimensions.

Sized at 40.4mm wide and 12.3mm thick, it wears comfortably on a wide range of wrists and feels substantial without being bulky. Inside is the in-house calibre 82200, offering 60 hours of power, IWC’s ceramic-reinforced Pellaton winding system, and a clear display caseback.

It comes in a range of dial colours, including classic silver, black and navy blue as well as some bolder choices like copper, pastel blue and dark red. The case also arrives in stainless steel or 5N gold.

Price starts from $5,250

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44

If the Portugieser Automatic 40 is IWC’s elegant staple, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44 is its technical showpiece and a masterclass in mechanical watchmaking born from the legacy of Kurt Klaus.

This 44.4mm piece blends tradition and innovation with an in-house calibre 52616 offering a seven-day power reserve, dual moon phases accurate to 577.5 years, and crown-only setting of all calendar indications.

Despite its size of 14.9mm thick, it wears surprisingly well thanks to a slimmer case ring and double-domed sapphire crystals that maximize visual impact without feeling bulky.

The lacquered dials are exceptional, made from 15 layers of lacquer, with deep subdials and applied markers. Colorways include a striking Obsidian black with Armor Gold, Horizon blue in white gold, and a soft Dune tone that adds modern warmth.

Prices start from $46,500

IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night

In a collection already stacked with complicated releases, the Swiss watchmaker continues to impress with the IWC Portugieser Hand-Wound Tourbillon Day & Night watch.

Reference IW545901 is housed in Armor Gold, the brand’s patented solid gold alloy and frames an Obsidian black lacquered dial that’s as rich as it is reflective.

The centrepiece though is the featherweight flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, weighing just 0.675 grams across 56 components paired with a 24 hour rotating globe at 9 o’clock, elegantly illustrating the eternal dance of day and night.

Inside beats the hand-wound calibre 81925, a new movement that trades an automatic rotor for visual purity and 84 hours of power reserve.

Price starts from $79,300

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

An easy one to include on this list, the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar marks a huge achievement for the Schaffhausen-based watchmaker as they join a very exclusive club with only the fourth true secular perpetual calendar ever made for the wrist.

While traditional perpetual calendars require correction every 100 years due to leap year exceptions, IWC’s new caliber accounts for all leap year anomalies until at least the year 3999. Even more astonishing is its moonphase complication, now accurate for 45 million years, obliterating the previous record.

Powered by the IWC-manufactured 52460 caliber, the Eternal Calendar adds only eight components to the brand’s standard perpetual movement, thanks to an ingenious cam and Maltese cross system.

This technical feat is housed in a platinum case measuring 44.4mm by 15mm, with a double-domed sapphire and striking glass dial architecture. It may not be IWC’s most daring visual design, but the achievement is historic.

Price starts from $135,000

IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph

The Yacht Club sub-family within IWC’s Portugieser collection brings a welcome injection of sporty practicality to what is traditionally a dressier, more formal line.

Introduced in the 1960s, the Yacht Club was conceived as a more rugged companion to the classic Portugieser, tailored for life at sea. Key distinctions include enhanced water resistance, more robust cases, and chronograph complications built with nautical timing in mind.

The Yacht Club maintains the elegant DNA of the Portugieser with its own selection of clean dials, Arabic numerals, and refined proportions but adds a layer of athleticism that suits contemporary lifestyles with large chronograph pushers, rubber straps and larger cases.

As always, there’s plenty of configurations to choose from, each with a 44.6mm wide case and the in-house 89361 calibre with flyback chronograph functionality and a 68 hour power reserve.

Price starts from $12,600

IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde

The IWC Portugieser Tourbillon Mystère Rétrograde is one of the few watches in the collection I haven’t had the chance to experience in the metal – and that’s probably down to the price tag.

But even without handling it firsthand, I can already tell this one’s special just from the photos and spec sheet. It’s one of those rare pieces where IWC flexes its full watchmaking muscle.

Most striking is the flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock, a mechanical spectacle of 82 components that seems to hover weightlessly in the dial’s upper half. It rotates once every 60 seconds, counteracting the effects of gravity on the balance and elevating timekeeping precision to art.

Just as captivating is the retrograde date display which arcs back to “1” at month’s end in a clean, satisfying sweep. Inside, the in-house calibre 51900 delivers an impressive 7 day power reserve, visible through a sapphire case back.

Price starts from $103,000

IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar

As you can probably tell by now, IWC are no strangers to the perpetual calendar complication and it’s a big reason why many collectors turn to them when looking for one. It’s a complication found throughout nearly every IWC collection, but one of my favourite executions is the IWC Portofino Perpetual Calendar.

The Portofino line has always stood out for its quiet elegance with Roman numerals, slim feuille hands, minimalist dials and a more classic dress-watch silhouette compared to the nautical-inspired Portugieser.

And yet, even with this more understated design language, the Portofino Perpetual Calendar doesn’t hold back on complexity. At 40mm, it’s the smallest perpetual calendar IWC offers, yet it still packs in a full display across three subdials, plus a gold moonphase against a starry night sky.

Inside is the in-house calibre 82650, featuring IWC’s rugged Pellaton winding system and a solid 60 hour power reserve.

Price starts from $25,200

IWC Portofino Automatic 34

A lot of IWC watches are tailored to midsize or larger wrists, but the Portofino line is ideal for those who prefer more compact dimensions, whether that’s men with a taste for smaller watches or women who want something refined and mechanical.

The IWC Portofino Automatic 34 is a perfect example of that sensibility, and it really encapsulates everything the Portofino collection stands for.

Classic, elegant, and unfussy, the Portofino Automatic 34 offers a clean stainless steel or solid gold case measuring just 34mm across and 8.6mm thick, making it incredibly easy to wear.

It houses IWC’s reliable automatic calibre 35100 which beats at 4 Hz and offers a 50 hour power reserve. My personal favourite model in this family is the reference IW357405.

It pairs the steel case with a dark green dial and matching alligator strap, highlighted by simple but beautiful diamond dot hour markers. It’s the perfect balance of elegance, uniqueness, and simplicity.

Price starts from $4,950

IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night

Another 34mm watch, the IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night is proof that elegance and mechanical charm can thrive in a more compact case size.

It introduces a poetic complication to the Portofino line, a day & night indicator nestled neatly at 6 o’clock, that shows the passage of time not just numerically but visually, with a rotating disc that reveals the sun at noon and the moon at midnight.

Reference IW659801 features a stainless steel case, a deep blue dial, and 66 brilliant-cut diamonds set into the bezel and dial, adding just under a carat of sparkle.

Rhodium-plated hands and hour markers complete the refined dial while a soft, luxurious blue calfskin strap with a butterfly clasp and IWC’s quick-change system ensures comfort and versatility on the wrist.

Price starts from $11,400

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 42 Black Ceramic

The 2023 re-release of the IWC Ingenieur made a significant impact, reviving a classic model with a modern twist that instantly caught the attention of watch enthusiasts.

Among the standout pieces is the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in black ceramic which marks a first for IWC as they offer the iconic Gérald Genta-inspired integrated bracelet design in full ceramic.

This watch’s multi-part ceramic case construction is a technical marvel, blending satin finishing, sandblasting, and polishing to create a refined matte-black look that’s incredibly scratch-resistant yet lightweight.

The case, bezel, crown, and even crown protection is crafted from black zirconium oxide ceramic, showcasing IWC’s nearly 40 years of expertise with this advanced material.

Inside, the in-house 82110 calibre powers the watch and delivers a robust 60 hour power reserve. The black dial sports the signature “Grid” pattern with Super-LumiNova filled hands and markers, ensuring legibility in all conditions.

Price starts from $19,500

IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35

Another exciting new release for the Ingenieur collection in 2025 is the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 35. This fresh addition introduces three compact, elegant versions, perfect for those who prefer a smaller, sport-luxury watch without compromising on style or substance.

Available in an 18-carat 5N rose gold case with a matching gold-coloured dial (Ref. IW324903), and two stainless steel models with either a silver-plated dial (Ref. IW324901) or a sleek black dial (Ref. IW324906), the Automatic 35 offers something for every taste.

Despite its more modest 35mm diameter and a slim 9.44mm thickness, the watch retains the iconic design features that define the Ingenieur like the distinctive bezel with five functional screws and the integrated bracelet that connects through its middle links.

The dial showcases the signature “Grid” pattern made of tiny lines and squares, a standout detail that adds texture and depth. Finishing the design is a sapphire case back that reveals the beautifully decorated 47110 calibre with 42 hours of power reserve and a gold-plated rotor.

Price starts from $9,950

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar

And of course, the Ingenieur collection wouldn’t be complete without a perpetual calendar complication thrown in for good measure.

The IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41, introduced at Watches and Wonders 2025, marks the first time IWC has combined Gérald Genta’s iconic Ingenieur design with the legendary perpetual calendar developed by Kurt Klaus in a stainless steel model.

The 41mm case, bezel, and integrated H-link bracelet showcase a refined mix of satin-finished and polished surfaces while the blue dial, adorned with the signature “Grid” pattern of small lines and squares, adds depth and reflects light beautifully.

Three subdials display the date, day, month, and a perpetual moon phase so precise it will only deviate by one day every 577.5 years. A leap year indicator is discreetly integrated, while rhodium-plated hands and markers filled with Super-LumiNova ensure excellent legibility.

Price starts from $38,900

IWC Aquatimer Automatic

Finally, we’re onto IWC’s last collection, the Aquatimer, and there are three models here definitely worth a look, especially if you want a high-functioning dive watch. First up is the IWC Aquatimer Automatic.

Built with a robust construction and a water resistance up to 300 meters, this 42mm dive watch features a corrosion-resistant stainless steel case and a striking textured dial.

The diving-relevant markers are cleverly coated with luminous material for excellent underwater legibility which is crucial when you’re deep below the surface where little light reaches your wrist.

Inside, the IWC-manufactured 32111 calibre powers the watch offering and an impressive 120 hour power reserve. The best feature though is the external/internal rotating bezel with IWC’s SafeDive system.

The external bezel’s rotation is transmitted via a sliding clutch to the internal bezel which always turns counterclockwise. This ensures that even if the bezel is accidentally moved, the dive time cannot be extended, so divers are always kept safe.

Price starts from $6,400

IWC Aquatimer Chronograph

Next up is the IWC Aquatimer Chronograph, another diver’s watch designed for those who want dive-ready toughness with added stopwatch functionality.

Housed in a 44mm corrosion-resistant stainless steel case, this one is again water resistant to 300 meters but adds chronograph counters on a black or blue dial for extra functionality, whether that’s timing dives or surface intervals.

It still features IWC’s innovative external/internal rotating bezel system with the SafeDive mechanism and finishes things off with the signature IWC quick-change system, allowing you to swap out the rubber strap quickly and easily depending on your needs, be it wet suit, dry suit, or daily wear.

Price starts from $7,600

IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month

The final IWC watch I’m mentioning today is the IWC Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month, and if you’ve made it this far, thanks for sticking with me.

Inspired by IWC’s prop work for Aquaman and the Lost Kingdom, this 49mm diver is crafted from Ceratanium, IWC’s proprietary material that merges the lightweight strength of titanium with the scratch resistance of ceramic. It’s rugged, stealthy, and packed with high-tech features.

The black dial is accented with blue or red Super-LumiNova details, adding bold contrast and legibility both underwater and in low light. But the real showstopper is the perpetual calendar with digital displays for both date and month.

Inside is the IWC 89802 calibre, offering a flyback chronograph and a 68 hour power reserve. Only 25 pieces of this ultra-limited, ultra-capable diver exist, making it a rare and seriously impressive final entry in IWC’s lineup.

Price starts from $57,600

Conclusion

It’s safe to say there’s no shortage of choice when it comes to IWC. Whether you’re drawn to the rugged cool of the Pilot’s watches, the technical wizardry of a perpetual calendar, or the classic elegance of the Portofino, there’s truly something here for everyone.

And while not every model hits the same high notes, there really aren’t any “bad” IWC watches, just some that sing louder than others.

My advice is to start with the Pilot’s or Portugieser collections depending on the aesthetics you’re drawn to and don’t sleep on anything with a perpetual calendar. They’re famous for a reason.

Rising disposable income and the expansion of airlines like Pan Am in the 1950s and 1960s created a surge in demand for travel, both for business and for pleasure.

Pilots had long been relying on accurate timepieces to navigate, but now they found that having at-a-glance legibility of a second time zone – home, HQ, GMT – was invaluable. That was just as true for travelers as it was for flight crews, especially if they were crossing time zones repeatedly on a trip.

Rolex was the first to respond to this need, introducing the innovative GMT-Master in 1954. Relying on a 24-hour bezel, this revolutionary design became the blueprint for GMT watches, and the architecture of the dial lay-out of the GMT Master, drawing heavily on the 1953 Submariner’s aesthetics, defined the look of this style even today.

GMTs can be expensive, but a growing number of manufacturers offer accessible exciting options for less than $5,000 – and some sell for far less!

Two kinds of GMT watch: caller vs. traveler

Two different complications were designed to do this: the so-called caller/office GMT and the aptly-named flyer/traveler GMT.

The caller design features a 24-hour bezel and a second hour hand that indicates a second time zone. This style of GMT complication is outstanding for keeping track of day/night differences, but not as easy to set immediately for rapidly changing time zones while travelling.

By contrast, the flyer/traveler GMT complication uses a second hour hand, typically of a different design than the primary, to track that alternate time zone.

In some models, it can be set without disturbing the minute hand, a feature that many enthusiasts enjoy as it doesn’t demand that you constantly correct the minutes (or seconds) while adjusting the hour.

I’ll note which of the complication styles each of the watches on our shortlist employs, and without further introduction, let’s get into the details.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

If you’re on the hunt for a GMT, you’re probably already familiar with Tudor. Established by Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, Tudor offers similar quality, precision, and aesthetics – all at a more affordable price point.

Tudor produces the Black Bay 58 in a 39mm case, making it more compact than the pre-2018 model. Slimmer and more svelte on the wrist do to a reduction in thickness from 14.6mm to 12.8mm, the current iteration wears beautifully, a testament to the practical history of the GMT.

Tudor partners with Kenissi to produce the MT5402 movement at the heart of this watch, emphasizing robustness, practicality, and flawless function.

The GMT complication on the Black Bay 58 relies on a bi-directional bezel marked in 24-hour increments. A true “caller” GMT, adjusting the second time zone is possible independently of the local time, and with hacking seconds, precise time is simple to track.

Available with your choice of a stainless bracelet or rubber strap, the Tudor Black Bay GMT captures the 50s and 60s aesthetic perfectly, offering timelessly retro swagger.

To me, it perfectly captures the luxury and romanticism of the post-war aviation boom, much like a wearable vintage travel poster, without deviating from the GMT Master’s general aesthetic sensibilities.

And Tudor knows that details count: consider details like the black and burgundy bezel, complete with gold details; it’s immediately recognizable by cognoscenti, marking the wearer out as someone in the know, someone who appreciates horological history.

Expect to pay $4,600 for the watch with a bracelet, and slightly less for the strap.

Longines Spirit Zulu Time

Longines’s Spirit Zulu Time is a sharp-looking design that strikes all the right aesthetic notes for me. I’m especially fond of the green and stainless version, as its clean good looks are easy to wear, easy to read, and surprisingly easy to own, too.

Longines equips the Spirit Zulu with its L844.4 movement, a variation of the ETA A31.L91 that includes a silicon balance spring for enhanced accuracy and resistance to magnetic fields.

Robust and accurate, the L844.4 drives a 24-hour GMT hand matched to an hour-marked bezel, two cathedral hands for the hours and minutes, a second hand, and a date window at the 6.

The L844.4 offers a “caller” style GMT complication that won’t disrupt the minutes and seconds of your local time as you set a new time zone.

Solidly dependable, the Spirit Zulu can take the abuse of bumps and knocks, whether you slam it into the counter at check in, wedge it between bags as you shift your luggage in the trunk, or strike your wrist on the door of a taxi at the airport.

Think of this Longines as an adventure watch, ready for whatever your travels throw at it. Snorkelling? Shopping in a crowded Moroccan bazaar? Dinner in a sea-side restaurant in Malta? 

Check, check, and check.

Available in at least eight different configurations of dial and bezel color as well as strap or bracelet design, this Longines is available in both 39 and 42mm diameters for an MSRP of $3,300.

Sinn 144 St DIAPAL

Sinn’s 144 St DIAPAL is what you might call a “sleeper:” a watch that’s so good it’s hard to understand why it’s not more popular among the rank and file consumer.

But for horological cognoscenti, this Sinn is a legend – and I don’t say that lightly. Strapping it on makes me feel like an F-22 pilot, and the overall look of this watch whispers speed.

The heart of this Sinn is La Joux‑Perret’s column‑wheel LJP 8000 movement, a modification and enhancement of the venerable ETA 7750.

Sinn transforms this workhorse movement, adding a true column wheel mechanism for more refined time-keeping, as well as the inclusion of a very high tech, lubricant-free DIAPAL escapement.

The results are impeccable accuracy, long service intervals, and reliability that’s hard to match.

The 144 St DIAPAL relies on a second, GMT hour hand – the “traveler” style rather than a 24-hour bezel. This makes the Sinn very easy to adjust on the fly, but it does require that you stop the seconds hand and adjust the local time to set that alternate time zone.

Aesthetically, the Sinn 144 St DIAPAL leans into its flieger heritage, offering tachometer and pulsometer bezel markings, three subdials, and hours, minutes, and seconds hands marked with luminescent material.

With either a gray fabric strap or stainless bracelet, it’s undeniably handsome, just a touch retro, and very, very stylish.

Expect to pay approximately $3,000 for this Sinn.

Traska Venturer GMT

Traska is a new watchmaker with a growing reputation for quality, craftsmanship, and affordable performance. Their Venturer is a GMT design that stays true to the company’s core mission of creating beautiful, dependable, rugged timepieces.

Traska uses off-the-shelf Japanese movements like the Miyota 9075, allowing for a true “traveler’s GMT” movement in which the GMT hand can be set without disturbing the local time.

That’s a big deal for frequent flyers, and very rare at this price point. That’s undoubtedly why Traska uses the Miyota 9075: it’s an outstanding movement that’s widely available, easy to repair or service, and capable of true GMT capability.

Traska offers the Venturer in a range of dial colors: carbon black, artic white, steel blue, and bottle green. The blue and green really catch my eye, but the black and white are strikingly attractive in their own rights.

Offered with a stainless bracelet, and finished with real attention to detail, this is a timepiece that’s already making a mark in horology.

I really appreciate its elegance, and there’s simply no question that the Traska Venturer is both easy on the eyes and easy to wear.

The blue dial is especially handsome, and its rich color and subdued dial texture really sets off the simple hour markers, hour and minute hands, and GMT hand – especially given its bright orange hue.

The Venturer retails for $750, making it more than a bargain given what it offers.

Christopher Ward C63 Sealander GMT

Christopher Ward endeavors to deliver Swiss precision and design at a moderate price point, and they were among the earliest watch brands to bypass retailers and sell directly to consumers to obviate the need for middlemen.

That has proven itself a smart strategy, and if you’re looking for a clean, good-looking GMT, the C63 Sealander deserves a close look.

Driven by the Sellita SW330‑2 movement, the C63 Sealander offers true “caller” GMT function, using a rotating bezel and second hour hand to track an alternate time zone.

This allows you to switch that second zone without disturbing the time, but it’s less useful if you’re switching time zones constantly.

A robust workhorse that’s known for exceptional accuracy for the price, the reserved aesthetics of the C63 Sealander appeal to people who want understated elegance.

 Available in green, white, and black dials, as well as a larger 40mm model that complements the standard 39mm collection, this Christopher Ward retails for roughly $1,000.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf GMT

Zodiac is another watchmaker with a strong reputation among aficionados. Their Super Sea Wolf GMT breaks with the Rolex Master GMT aesthetic and charts a course of its own, hewing closer to the C63 Sealander from Chrsitopher Ward than the retro-inspired Tudor.

Equipped with the STP 7-20 GMT movement, a close relative of the ETA 2893-2, it uses a rotating bezel and second hour hand to track an alternate time zone.

Easy to set without disturbing local time, this “caller-style” GMT is very easy to read at a glance due to the contrasting dial and GMT hand color scheme.

Zodiac’s aesthetic choices for the Super Sea Wolf – a 40mm case that’s

13.6mm thick – give it a luxury heft and weight. It’s not heavy, but it does feel like quality on the wrist. Its prominent bezel, big case, and two-tone stainless bracelet offer a rugged and adventurous look for world travelers and flight crews, especially in the limited edition “Sherbert” dial and bezel design.

MSRP for the Super Sea Wolf is $1,995.

Grand Seiko (ref. SBGN011)

Grand Seiko has been pushing the boundaries of Japanese luxury for decades now, challenging Swiss watchmakers to keep up with its commitment to unyielding excellence.

When I think about daily luxury – a wrist watch that’s beautiful, elegant, but also practical and wearable, Grand Seiko never fails to impress. And that’s just as true of its GMT models, like the unforgettable SBGN011.

Grand Seiko breathes life into this timepiece through the Grand Seiko Caliber 9F86. This quartz movement offers no-nonsense precision in the range of ±10 seconds per year, as well as a second GMT hour hand paired with discrete hour markers on the dial. A “caller-style” GMT complication, it can be set independently of the local time.

An under-appreciated gem, the SBGN011 features a 40mm stainless-steel case polished in the traditional Japanese Zaratsu style, as well as a sunburst champagne dial.

Simple hour markers and hands offer an understated elegance perfectly in keeping with Grand Seiko’s vision of wearable luxury.

For me, this is the dressiest of the GMT watches I’m discussing today, and if suits or smart casual are your daily sartorial options, I simply don’t think you’ll do better than this Grand Seiko.

Expect to pay roughly $3,765 for the SBGN011.

Seiko 5 Sports (ref. SSK023)

The Seiko 5 Sport GMT (ref. SSK023) is another timepiece that horological insiders will already know well. Essentially a field watch with added GMT functionality, the Seiko 5 GMT is adventure-ready and eye-catching.

Seiko powers this watch with its in-house 4R34 movement, a reliable, rugged, tool-watch movement that delivers acceptable accuracy, easy service, and relatively low cost.

I own and wear a Seiko 5 every day, and it’s taken abuse I’d rather forget without missing a hitch. The GMT feature is a “caller-style” complication that measures the second time zone via a GMT hand a 24-hour marked bezel.

The clean lines and contrasting dial and GMT hand make that second time zone easy to read at a glance, and if your travels take you off the beaten path, a watch like the instantly legible, drop-dead durable Seiko 5 GMT may be the best fit for your active, adventurous life.

Delivered with a well-executed bracelet, this watch retails for $435.

Conclusion

GMT watches were once essential tools for travelers and flight crews, and they maintain some of that practical function even now for frequent travelers who need to keep track of multiple time zones simultaneously. 

And while flagship models like the Rolex GMT Master II are unsurprisingly expensive, collectors and users alike should realize that there are exceptional GMT watches under $5,000 – if you know where to look.

Whether you’re a frequent flier yourself, work in a business in which time zones matter, or just need to keep track of the time at home, one of the watches I’ve discussed today should be a perfect fit for your needs, style, and budget.