Watch enthusiasts, like many other enthusiasts, whether it be cars, sneakers, EDC (Everyday Carry), or anything else out there worth collecting, tend to enjoy their communities and the fun eccentricities and nuances that come with them.
For example, if you are a big EDC enthusiast, there is a good chance that you can have an at-length conversation about the different metal alloys that make the very best EDC knife. Or, if you are a big sneakerhead, there is no doubt that you’ve argued over the greatest and worst sneaker releases of all time.
To an outsider looking in, these conversations might as well be in a foreign language. But to the enthusiast, the nuances that the common person can easily overlook or ignore are precisely what makes them an enthusiast. With that said, watch enthusiasts might just be the most diehard of all.
In the pantheon of highly respected, famous, and even infamous timepieces, we, as enthusiasts, have always enjoyed and adored the nicknames that we give to our watches. Now, I don’t mean personal nicknames or pet names that you give your personal collection; I’m talking about the well-known aliases given to timepieces by the community at large.
Some of the most famous are the Pepsi, Batman, Paul Newman, Dark Lord, Arnie, Snowflake, Ed White, and my personal favorite, the Pussy Galore. While there are hundreds of examples of fun, playful nicknames that every watch has earned from the community, the list above is just a tiny example.
With that said, today we will be discussing the Rolex “Buckley Dial,” what it is, where the nickname came from, and a few models that are sure to pique your interest.
The Many, Many Unique Dials of Rolex Watches
Rolex is likely the most popular and sought-after brand in the watch community and likely one of the most recognizable brands in the world. From its sponsorship of sporting events like Formula One racing, golf, and tennis to its sponsorship of the arts, the Rolex name extends beyond the enthusiast community.
With that said, the public image of Rolex has changed over the years. Gone are the days of true tool watches created for a purpose, and in are the days of status, notoriety, and achievement.
So, it is no surprise that in this new age of Rolex, there is a lack of fun, quirky, and unique dial options that were ever present in the old days of Rolex. The joy of yesteryear has given way to a more sterile, safe, and palatable catalog.
Having said that, let’s explore some of the most unique dial offerings from Rolex’s past. Rolex first introduced some incredibly unique dial options in the 70s with an array of stone dial options that are sure to boggle the mind.
With dials ranging from actual wood like birch, African mahogany, and walnut to stones like onyx, tiger eye, malachite, and coral, the use of these incredible materials is proof that Rolex had a sense of fun and uniqueness that is not as common on modern Rolex timepieces.
So, What is Buckley Dial?
For those vintage Rolex collectors and connoisseurs, the Buckley Dial is surely on your radar and possibly in your collection. But, for those who might be new to vintage Rolex or watches in general, let’s break down what the Buckley Dial looks like from a design standpoint and how it differs from similar modern Rolex dials.
The Buckley Dial is generally found in vintage Datejust models that date back to the 70s and 80s. Most commonly found on Datejust references 1601, 1603, 16014, and 16030, the Buckley dial seems to have come into existence around the same time period that Rolex began using the hard stones we discussed earlier.
But like most vintage Rolex, which can be a bit of a mystery, the Buckley Dial has seen use in other Rolex models like the Day-Date and Oysterquartz. What makes the Buckley Dial so unique from a design language point of view is the use of printed Roman Numerals vs. applied Roman Numerals seen on modern Rolex watches.
While some will argue that the use of applied Roman Numerals in some flavor of precious metal or diamond makes the watch more luxurious, I’ll say that the modern dials with applied numerals feel a bit cluttered.
That is what is so beautiful about a printed Buckley Dial, the use of space and dial layout. Due to the particular font thinness, compared to modern applied numerals, the dial has the opportunity to breathe, stretch its legs, and allow for the nuanced “feet” that adorn the numerals to fill some of the empty space.
The crisp printing of the numerals also allows for a highly legible dial that makes reading the time at a glance incredibly easy.
Who is Buckley?
Like many Rolex models named after individuals, most notably the Paul Newman Daytona and the McQueen Explorer II, which he may not have actually worn, the Buckley Dial is named after an individual who is neither a movie star nor a household name.
John Buckley is the owner of Tuscany Rose, a pre-owned watch shop that caters to vintage lovers and in the world of vintage Rolex, Buckley has a wealth of knowledge and expertise on the subject, so much so that he now has a Rolex nicknamed after him!
The story goes that John Buckley, vintage watch dealer extraordinaire renowned for his expertise in the field, became so passionate about vintage Rolex with printed dials that his enthusiasm and interest helped thrust the rare references into the limelight, gaining popularity on the pre-owned market.
Due to his passion and excitement for a reference that could have been lost to time, the watch community decided that the watch should be nicknamed after him. The rest is history.
Buckley Models to Adore
In an attempt to keep this section concise and quick, I will touch on a few standout Rolex models that use a Buckley dial and give a brief description of each timepiece. This will be by no means a definitive guide, but it should act as a decent jumping-off point for anyone looking to start the search for a Rolex model with a Buckley Dial.
Rolex Datejust Ref. 16030- Gray Dial
The Datejust ref. 16030 was first introduced in 1977 as a replacement for the Datejust ref. 1603 and would be produced and eventually taken out of production in 1988. In true vintage Rolex Datejust fashion, the ref. 16030 has a case diameter of 36mm, a lug-to-lug distance of 44mm, and a case thickness of 11mm.
The acrylic crystal comes with the signature cyclops over the date, which in tandem with the printed Buckley Dial, makes this timepiece highly legible. While we’ve discussed the Buckley Dial and design, we haven’t touched on dial colors.
I think the standout feature for me is the gray dialed reference. There is a beautiful monochromatic eeriness that works so well with the engine-turned bezel and patina’d lume plots.
Rolex Datejust Ref. 16014- Blue Dial
The Datejust ref. 16014, like the ref. 16030, was introduced in 1977 and saw production until 1988. This beautiful reference comes with a beautiful blue dial and white Roman Numerals. The white printing on the blue dial references truly pops.
The highly contrasted dial is an excellent example of simplistic and conservative beauty. The white gold fluted bezel gives the already charming timepiece a luster that can only be found in the use of precious metals.
Many Datejust references, especially vintage ones, are usually found on a leather strap or an original stretched-out jubilee. The reference shown as an example comes on an amazingly well-cared-for jubilee that looks as good today as it did the day it left the factory floor.
Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601- White Dial
Last but certainly not least, Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 with a white dial is likely going to be the most common Buckley Dialed Rolex out there.
While, as it stands, the Buckley Dial will always be a more unique and rare reference, the bright white dial with black printed numerals will be the one most often found in quality and well-regarded vintage watch shops.
The white-dialed reference is definitely a great do-all timepiece like the rest of the Datejust family. You get a watch that can be easily paired with both casual and formal attire, one that is not ostentatious or overly bold but an understated timepiece that can act as the perfect companion in whatever situation you put it in.
Parting Thoughts
In the wide world of vintage timepieces and, more specifically, vintage Rolex, enthusiasts and collectors are always looking for the next watch that will be highly sought after.
The Buckley Dialed Rolexes used to be just that. A watch that flew under the radar, a watch that only a few people gave much time and attention to, and one that one man saw the future potential of.
John Buckley and his now-loved Buckley Dialed Rolex watches are proof that in this weird hobby/obsession that we call horology, your passion and love for those unique outliers can earn you a spot in history!
Rolex watches are synonymous with luxury, precision, and timeless elegance. Renowned for their exceptional craftsmanship, engineering, and attention to detail, Rolex timepieces have become iconic symbols of success and prestige.
With a history dating back to 1905, Rolex has consistently pushed the boundaries of watchmaking and marketing, introducing innovative features and technologies through the years.
From the classic Datejust and Submariner to the sophisticated Day-Date and Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex offers a diverse range of models to suit various lifestyles and tastes. Each Rolex watch is meticulously crafted using high-quality materials, powered by precise movements, and designed to withstand the rigors of everyday wear.
A Rolex watch is not just a timekeeping device but a statement of style and accomplishment recognized the world over. In this article, we’ll dive deep into a specific part of Rolex watches: the watch bezel.
About Watch Bezels
Watch bezels serve both practical and aesthetic functions in wristwatches. A bezel is a ring-like component that surrounds the watch dial or face and is typically located between the crystal or glass covering and the watch’s case. While its primary purpose is to secure the crystal in place, bezels can also offer additional features and benefits depending on their design.
Protection & Durability
The bezel acts as a protective barrier for the watch face. It helps prevent scratches, impacts, and other forms of damage to the dial, as well as the crystal or glass covering. By creating a raised edge around the watch face, the bezel adds an extra layer of protection against accidental knocks or bumps.
Timekeeping & Measurement
Some watch bezels are specifically designed for timekeeping or measuring purposes. For example, diver’s watches often feature a unidirectional rotating bezel with minute markings to measure elapsed time underwater.
The wearer can align the bezel’s marker with the minute hand to track the duration of a dive or any other time-based activity. Similarly, some bezels are designed with tachymeter scales to calculate speed or chronograph functions for measuring elapsed time.
Aesthetic Enhancement
Bezels play a crucial role in the overall design and appearance of a wristwatch. They come in various materials, finishes, and styles to complement the watch’s aesthetics and create visual appeal. Whether it’s a simple, understated bezel or an elaborate, gemstone-encrusted one, the choice of bezel design can significantly influence the watch’s overall look and feel.
Functional Indicators
In certain watches, bezels can serve as functional indicators or markers. For example, a pilot’s watch might have a bi-directional rotating bezel with a slide rule function to assist with calculations related to aviation, such as fuel consumption or airspeed. These bezels often feature specialized markings or scales that aid in performing specific calculations or conversions.
Versatility & Customization
Some watches feature interchangeable bezels, allowing wearers to change the appearance or functionality of their timepieces easily. These modular bezel systems enable users to swap out bezels of different colors, materials, or functions, providing versatility and personalization options to match various occasions or preferences.
It’s worth noting that not all watches incorporate a functional bezel. Some timepieces, particularly minimalist or dress watches, may have fixed bezels that focus primarily on aesthetics while keeping the watch face unobstructed.
In such cases, the absence of a functional bezel doesn’t diminish the watch’s overall value or functionality; instead, it reflects a design choice aimed at achieving a specific style or purpose.
Current Types of Rolex Bezels
Rolex watches are known for their attention to detail and precision craftsmanship, and the bezels they use are no exception. Rolex offers a range of different bezel types across their various watch models, each serving a specific purpose and catering to different needs. Here are some of the notable bezel types used by Rolex:
Smooth/Domed Bezel
The Rolex smooth bezel is a hallmark of elegance and sophistication, with just the right touch of sportiness. Found on models such as the Oyster Perpetual, Datejust, and Day-Date, and professional models like the Air King and Explorer, this bezel type showcases a sleek and polished surface devoid of any additional markings or textures.
Its simplicity allows the focus to remain on the dial and overall design of the watch. The smooth bezel complements various styles, from formal occasions to everyday wear, making it a versatile choice for everyday wear. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, Rolex ensures that the smooth bezel seamlessly integrates with the watch case, creating a cohesive and harmonious aesthetic.
This understated bezel design adds a touch of refined class to the timepiece, making it a timeless and elegant accessory for discerning individuals who appreciate the art of understated luxury.
Fluted Bezel
The Rolex fluted bezel is an iconic and instantly recognizable feature of many Rolex watches, most notably the Datejust and Day-Date models. This distinctive bezel design showcases vertical ridges or grooves that encircle the outer edge, resembling the edge of a coin.
The fluted bezel adds a touch of sophistication and character to the timepiece, elevating its aesthetic appeal. Carved with high precision, the fluted bezel also serves a practical purpose, allowing for easy gripping and manipulation when installing the bezel above the sapphire crystal. This bezel design enhances the watch’s visual allure and serves as a hallmark of Rolex’s attention to detail and craftsmanship.
The Rolex fluted bezel has become the brand’s symbol and trademark feature, making it a coveted feature for those seeking a luxurious and recognizable timepiece. Recently, Rolex released the Perpetual 1908 dress watch collection, featuring finer coin edge ridges set into the bezel.
Diamond-Set Bezel
Rolex gem-set bezels represent the pinnacle of luxury and glamor. These bezels are adorned with carefully selected and expertly set precious gemstones, including diamonds, sapphires, or other exquisite gems.
Rolex offers gem-set bezels on select models such as the Datejust and Day-Date, and even on sports models such as the Submariner, GMT Master II, and Daytona, enhancing their already distinguished designs.
The gemstones are expertly placed into the bezel, ensuring precise alignment and a captivating display of brilliance and light play. Rolex’s strict quality standards guarantee that only the finest diamonds and gemstones are used and chosen for their exceptional clarity, color, and cut. The gem-set bezels elevate the watch’s allure, catching the light from every angle and turning heads with a dazzling presence.
Among the Crown’s technical achievements and prowess, their in-house gem-setting represents the epitome of opulence, making these timepieces a coveted choice for those who seek the highest levels of watchmaking from the brand.
Rotatable Bezel
Among the Rolex catalog, both unidirectional and bidirectional rotating bezels are available on specific watch models for added function. Of the unidirectional variant, both the Submariner and Sea Dweller collections feature rotating bezels designed for diving. Either model’s bezels feature minute markings, allowing divers to accurately measure their elapsed dive time by aligning the bezel’s marker with the minute hand.
Made from robust materials like ceramic or aluminum (in older generations), Rolex diving bezels are known for their durability and resistance to wear. In the Yacht Master, a bidirectional rotating bezel with a raised 60-minute scale is utilized.
This bezel is designed for regatta timing, allowing wearers to measure precise intervals. It adds a sporty and nautical touch to the watch’s aesthetics, a bit more modern leaning than the traditional dive bezels mentioned earlier.
24-Hour GMT Bezel
The rotating GMT bezel is a distinct and practical feature found on the GMT-Master II collection, designed specifically for tracking multiple time zones. The bezel, made of robust materials like ceramic or aluminum (in previous generations), incorporates a 24-hour scale that allows wearers to easily reference a second timezone.
The GMT bezel is bidirectional, enabling smooth and convenient adjustment. It can be rotated in either direction to align the 24-hour scale with the GMT hand on the watch dial.
By setting the GMT hand to the desired second time zone and aligning it with the bezel, wearers can effortlessly keep track of two different time zones simultaneously. This functionality proves invaluable for travelers, pilots, and individuals who frequently deal with international time differences. It allows for quick and efficient time zone adjustments without affecting the accuracy of the watch’s primary timekeeping function by utilizing the crown for adjustment.
Tachymeter Bezel
The tachymeter bezel on the Rolex Daytona is a functional and iconic feature that enhances the watch’s chronograph capabilities. The bezel incorporates a tachymeter scale, which allows wearers to measure average speed over a known distance using the chronograph function.
The tachymeter scale is engraved or printed (as on older models) on the outer edge of the bezel and typically ranges from 60 to 400 units per hour. It enables users to calculate speed based on the time taken to cover a specific distance. When the chronograph is activated, the wearer starts timing and stops it after traveling the desired distance.
The chronograph second hand points to the tachymeter scale, indicating the average speed. The tachymeter bezel on the Daytona is a functional tool and adds a sporty and dynamic touch to the watch’s overall design, reflecting the model’s racing heritage and its association with speed and precision.
Ring Command Bezel
The Rolex Yacht-Master II is equipped with a unique and innovative feature known as the “Ring Command” bezel. This specialized bezel is an integral part of the watch’s mechanical movement and allows for manipulating complex functions with haptic ease.
The Ring Command bezel operates in conjunction with the watch’s programmable countdown timer, which is designed specifically for yacht racing. By rotating the bezel counterclockwise, it engages and unlocks the timer function. From there, the bezel can be turned further to set the desired countdown time.
Once the countdown begins, the bezel remains stationary, ensuring accurate timekeeping. The functionality of the Ring Command bezel lies in its intricate internal mechanism, which interacts with the watch’s movement to control the countdown timer. This innovative design enables precise and intuitive operation, allowing sailors to focus on their race preparations without any complexity.
Other Notable Types of Rolex Bezels
Outside of the current catalog’s range of bezel configurations, Rolex has historically utilized other types of bezels which are no longer in production, whether due to style and taste preferences changing through the years or streamlining of manufacturing across their product offerings today. Let’s explore this further.
Engine Turned Bezel
No longer in production, the Engine Turned Bezel, commonly featured in historic collections such as the Air King, Datejust, Oyster Perpetual, and Date models, was a practical alternative for those seeking a design less formal than a fully fluted bezel, yet not as stark as a smooth domed bezel.
Bark Bezel
Also no longer being produced, the bark bezel was utilized mainly on Day-Date and a small number of Datejust watches and featured even finer ridging along the surface of the bezel (quite like the texture of bark) than a traditional fluted bezel in fine materials like yellow and white gold.
Pyramid Bezel
As the name suggests, the Pyramid bezel featured pyramid-shaped decorative carvings on the bezel. Found on dressier pieces and often paired with gem set detailing, the Pyramid bezel was utilized on Day Date, Oysterquartz Day Date, as well as Lady Datejust timepieces.
Florentine Bezel
The Florentine bezel is a very fine, almost filed-like texture which was rarely used on particular Datejust and Oyster Perpetual models. Adding a finer texture to what otherwise would be a traditional smooth bezel, it’s a particularly refined look not often seen in the brand’s catalog.
Moreau Bezel
Not widely produced or replicated, the Moreau bezel is a rare bezel type from the Crown, which featured a hashmark mix of engraving and textured finishing on select gold Date and Datejust models.
Greek Key Bezel
Echoing emblematic Greek decoration and patterning, the Greek Key style bezel from Rolex was only available on special order from the brand, particularly on the reference 1506 Date. Its deep etchings replicate Greek art patterns along the circumference of the bezel, much as the name suggests.
Moiré Bezel
Similar to the Moreau bezel mentioned prior, the Moiré bezel features small flutings directed inwards towards the dial, as well as flutings crossing against them horizontally around the full circumference of the bezel. The result is a unique texture with an almost antiquated handcraft feel.
Zephyr Bezel
The Zephyr Bezel was featured on the Oyster Perpetual “Zephyr”, produced between the 1950s and 1970s. It features fine fluting and small cut notches at each minute mark on the inner side of the bezel, which the wearer could use as “hashes” for minute markings outside of the dial in practical use.
Morellis Bezel
Rarely seen, the Morellis bezel is a gold leaf-like texture that is crisp and refined when found on rare Day Date models during the 1960s. The center links of the accompanying president-style bracelets also feature the gold leaf “Morellis” texture, producing an overall impressive if not stark look when compared to fully polished or fluted alternatives.
Conclusion
Over the decades since the brand’s inception, Rolex has continually offered and improved upon its bezel designs across its full range of timepiece offerings. It’s important to note that not all bezel types are available on every Rolex model. Specifically, the choice of bezel type, construction, and materials, depends on the watch’s intended purpose, design, and target audience.
As a watchmaking and engineering powerhouse of the industry, Rolex has, through the years, selected and designed bezels that align with the functionality and aesthetics of each watch model, ensuring a harmonious and purposeful timepiece.
Discover the captivating world of the Rolex Root Beer in this comprehensive guide. Delve into its rich history, explore previous models, and uncover the allure of the current Root Beer released in 2018.
Should you buy a Rolex Root Beer? We provide valuable insights to help you decide. Additionally, explore alternatives to the Root Beer for a wider range of choices.
Embark on this horological journey as we unravel the significance of the Root Beer and reveal everything you should know about this uniquely interesting timepiece.
About the Rolex Root Beer
The Rolex Root Beer is a beloved and iconic model with a fascinating history. The Root Beer name refers to specific Rolex GMT-Master models.
The first GMT-Master, reference 6542, was released in 1954 and featured a two-tone red and blue bezel inspired by the colors of Pan American Airways. Over time, Rolex experimented with different bezel colors, and the Rolex Root Beer emerged and gained a dedicated following among collectors.
The original Root Beer model featured a brown dial and a bezel crafted from both gold and brown elements, earning it the soda-inspired nickname. Although Rolex never officially adopted the Root Beer name, it has become widely recognized in the watch community.
The Root Beer GMT-Master also acquired other intriguing monikers over the years. Some enthusiasts refer to it as “Tiger Eye” because the dial’s rich brown hue resembles the captivating chatoyancy seen in tiger eye gemstones.
Another nickname associated with this model is “Clint Eastwood” due to the GMT Master 1675/3 being the renowned actor’s preferred Rolex watch. Clint Eastwood frequently wore the Root Beer in his movies, further cementing its iconic status.
Although production of the original Root Beer GMT-Master ceased in 2006, its desirability and collectibility have only grown stronger. The demand for this model has resulted in appreciating prices in the pre-owned market, reflecting its enduring appeal among watch enthusiasts and collectors. In 2018, Rolex reintroduced the Root Beer bezel in their GMT-Master II collection with the ref. 126711CHNR.
This modern iteration pays homage to the legacy of the Root Beer, incorporating contemporary enhancements while staying true to the model’s iconic design. The reintroduction of the Root Beer bezel further solidifies its status as a coveted and sought-after timepiece, captivating the hearts of watch enthusiasts worldwide.
A Primer on Rolex Watches’ Nicknames
Rolex watches have earned such a prestigious status in the luxury world that they have garnered a fascinating array of nicknames. These playful monikers have been created by the passionate collector community and have become widely recognized, even among those who aren’t watch enthusiasts.
The practice of giving Rolex watches nicknames has become a trend in itself, creating a circular effect where the desire for these timepieces leads to the invention of catchy aliases, which in turn increases the brand’s visibility and demand.
While Rolex has not officially sanctioned these nicknames, they have become part of the watch culture and add an element of enjoyment to the brand.
Here is a breakdown of some of the most commonly used Rolex nicknames:
Coke: GMT-Master II with a red and black aluminum bezel insert (references 16760 and 16710).
Green Lantern/Sprite/Destro: Left-handed GMT-Master II with a green and black bezel insert (2022).
Hulk: Green Submariner reference 116610LV with green Cerachrom bezel and dial.
Kermit: Submariner Date reference 16610LV with a green bezel insert (2003).
Paul Newman: Hand-wound Daytona with an “exotic” dial featuring blocky indices and funky Arabic numerals.
Pepsi: GMT-Master or GMT-Master II with a blue and red bezel (from 6542 in the 1950s to modern 126710BLRO).
Smurf: White gold Submariner with a blue bezel insert and either a blue or black dial (references 116619LB and 126619LB).
Starbucks: Submariner with a Super case, green Cerachrom bezel, and black dial (ref. 122610LV, 2020).
Steve McQueen: Explorer II reference 1655, despite no evidence of the actor wearing one.
These nicknames have been coined by the collector community and have become widely recognized, adding an element of fun and distinctiveness to the Rolex watches.
Rolex Root Beer Models
Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3
The Rolex GMT-Master Ref. 1675/3 holds a significant place in the history of the Root Beer models. It was introduced in the 1970s and became the first-ever Root Beer watch. This particular model was available in two bezel color variations, but it was the version with the brown-and-black bezel that earned it the nickname “Root Beer”.
The combination of the brown bezel with the stainless steel and exquisite yellow gold case and bracelet created a unique and captivating aesthetic. The original Root Beer model featured a brown dial adorned with luminescent hands and hour markers in various shapes.
The dial also included a magnified date window, adding practicality to the timepiece. Powering this watch was the caliber 1575, which enabled GMT functionality, allowing the wearer to track two timezones simultaneously.
The watch’s vintage charm, along with its discontinued status, has made it highly sought-after among collectors. The Rolex GMT-Master 1675/3 embodies the spirit of the Root Beer models with its distinctive design and timeless appeal.
In the late 1980s, Rolex introduced an upgraded version of the Root Beer model with the GMT-Master II reference 16713.
This timepiece marked the next chapter in the evolution of the Root Beer watches and showcased Rolex’s commitment to innovation. The 16713 retained the essence of its predecessor while incorporating notable enhancements to offer a more versatile and modern timepiece.
The GMT-Master II 16713 featured a 40mm stainless steel and gold case, complemented by a matching bracelet. The bi-directional bezel, a defining characteristic of the GMT-Master models, was updated with brown and gold aluminum inserts, giving it a distinct Root Beer appearance.
The brown dial, similar to the original 1675/3, featured luminescent hands and hour markers, ensuring optimal legibility in any lighting conditions. However, what set this model apart was its ability to display three timezones. Thanks to its adjustable 12-hour and 24-hour hands, wearers could easily track an additional timezone, adding a practical function to the watch.
Powered by the caliber 3185, the GMT-Master II 16713 delivered precise timekeeping and reliability. The sapphire crystal provided enhanced durability and scratch resistance, further solidifying its status as a reliable companion.
The watch was available with both Oyster and Jubilee bracelets, allowing wearers to choose their preferred style and comfort.
The GMT-Master II 16713 represented a significant milestone for the Root Beer models, incorporating modern advancements while paying homage to its roots.
This model appealed to individuals seeking a timepiece that effortlessly combined functionality with style. Today, the 16713 Root Beer model remains a sought-after watch, cherished by collectors and enthusiasts for its unique design and enduring appeal.
Rolex GMT Master II “Root Beer” ref. 126711CHNR
In 2018, Rolex delighted fans of the Root Beer watch with the introduction of the 126711CHNR, a new iteration that breathed new life into the iconic timepiece.
This release marked a triumphant return for the Root Beer, which had momentarily disappeared from the horological scene. The Master II Root Beer, often hailed as the second version of the Root Beer, brought a fresh set of features and upgrades, reigniting the passion of watch enthusiasts.
With its blend of timeless design and modern enhancements, this model aimed to captivate both loyal fans and new admirers, solidifying the Root Beer’s status as a true Rolex classic.
Case
While maintaining the bi-colored scheme that distinguished the original Root Beer, there are notable differences in the materials used. Rolex opted for their proprietary 18K Everose gold for the case, a departure from the traditional yellow gold found in the vintage model.
This choice imbues the timepiece with a warm and elegant hue, elevating its overall aesthetic appeal. The Oyster case, with its 40mm diameter and 12.5mm thickness, exudes a sense of robustness and durability.
It is meticulously crafted to ensure precision and reliability, reflecting Rolex’s unwavering standards. The screw-down case back and winding crown, coupled with a water resistance rating of 100m, ensure that the timepiece can withstand the rigors of daily wear and aquatic adventures.
With its impeccable design and attention to detail, the case of the relaunched Rolex Root Beer exemplifies Rolex’s commitment to creating watches of exceptional quality.
Dial
Departing from the brown dial of the vintage Root Beer, this model features a striking black dial that serves as a captivating backdrop for intricate details. The hour markers and hands, adorned with 18K rose gold accents, create a stunning contrast against the dark dial, infusing the watch with a touch of opulence.
This careful attention to detail extends to the text “GMT Master II,” elegantly printed in gold just above the 6 o’clock position. This additional detail sets the Root Beer apart from other GMT Master II models, which typically feature white markers and hands.
The combination of the gold accents with the bezel is truly jaw-dropping, giving the watch a warm and retro feel. Despite its toned-down appearance, the 126711 can still stand out and make heads turn.
Rolex ensures exceptional legibility with its Chromalight display, a proprietary feature that emits long-lasting blue luminescence. This allows the wearer to easily read the time, even in low-light conditions.
The dial becomes a focal point of admiration for watch connoisseurs, combining style, functionality, and impeccable craftsmanship.
Bezel
Like other GMT models, this watch features a bi-directional bezel with a distinctive black and brown Cerachrom insert. Rolex’s use of ceramic material for the bezel is a groundbreaking achievement, known for its exceptional scratch-resistant properties.
This particular color combination in their patented ceramic material had never been produced before, making it an exclusive feature of the Master II Root Beer. The upper half of the bezel is black, while the lower half is brown, creating a visually captivating and dynamic effect.
The bezel’s molded Arabic numerals and graduations are coated with pink gold via PVD, adding a touch of elegance and functionality. As light plays upon the bezel, the black and brown tones come alive, providing a mesmerizing and ever-changing appearance.
The bi-color Cerachrom bezel exemplifies Rolex’s mastery of materials and design, adding a touch of sophistication to this exceptional timepiece.
Movement
At the heart of the 126711 beats the caliber 3285, a marvel of watchmaking technology developed exclusively by Rolex. This self-winding movement is a testament to Rolex’s unwavering pursuit of precision, reliability, and innovation.
The caliber 3285 incorporates several advanced features that enhance the watch’s performance. Equipped with Paraflex shock absorbers and a Parachrom hairspring, the movement boasts exceptional resistance to shocks and magnetism, ensuring reliable timekeeping in any situation.
The inclusion of the Chronergy escapement in this GMT Master II further enhances its precision and efficiency, with a 15% improvement in energy efficiency compared to previous movements.
These innovations result in an impressive power reserve of 70 hours, a significant improvement over its predecessors. The movement is COSC-certified, meeting the stringent standards set by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute.
With its unparalleled precision and reliability, the caliber 3285 enhances the overall appeal and functionality of the Master II Root Beer, solidifying its status as a superior timekeeping instrument.
Bracelet
Departing from the Jubilee bracelet found in previous Root Beer models, this timepiece features an Oyster bracelet that exudes a sporty and robust character.
The two-tone design combines satin-finished stainless steel outer links with 18K Everose gold center links, creating a harmonious blend of materials.
The bracelet’s craftsmanship ensures a perfect fit on the wrist, while the Easylink 5mm comfort extension link system allows for easy adjustment, providing unparalleled comfort and versatility.
The Oysterlock folding clasp adds an extra layer of security, ensuring the watch stays firmly in place during everyday activities.
With its exceptional design and engineering, the bracelet of the 2018 Root Beer embodies Rolex’s commitment to both form and function.
Pros and Cons
Pros
· Accurate Timekeeping: The 126711 is powered by the COSC-certified caliber 3285, ensuring precise timekeeping with a precision rating of -2/+2 seconds per day.
· GMT Functionality: The GMT function allows for tracking multiple timezones, making it convenient for frequent travelers.
· Exceptional Legibility: The Chromalight display and gold accents on the dial ensure clear and easy time reading, even in low-light conditions.
· Superior Movement: The caliber 3285 boasts advanced features like Paraflex shock absorbers, Parachrom hairspring, Chronergy escapement, and a 70-hour power reserve, ensuring reliability and precision.
Cons:
· Limited Availability: The popularity of the Root Beer model and its status as a “hot watch” make it challenging to acquire, often resulting in long waiting lists or inflated prices in the pre-owned market.
· Deviation from the vintage aesthetic: The modern design of the Rolex Root Beer, including the metal bracelet, dial color, and bezel shade, may not appeal to purists seeking a faithful recreation of the original vintage model. However, for those looking for a modern and trendy interpretation, this watch offers a unique charm.
In conclusion, the Rolex GMT Master II Root Beer is a remarkable timepiece that pays homage to its iconic predecessor while introducing modern features and materials.
From the exquisite case and dial design to the innovative movement and bracelet, every aspect of this watch showcases Rolex’s commitment to craftsmanship and precision.
While it may have some limitations in terms of availability and deviation from the vintage aesthetic, the 2018 Root Beer remains a sought-after model that appeals to both watch enthusiasts and discerning collectors.
Should You Buy a Rolex Root Beer?
The Rolex Root Beer is a timepiece that appeals to a specific audience that appreciates its unique features and distinct design elements. For fans of the iconic Rolex Root Beer, the reference 126711CHNR offers a new breed of the classic watch, capturing the essence of the vintage model while incorporating modern upgrades and features.
It presents an opportunity to add a unique and sought-after timepiece to your collection. The popularity and limited availability of the Rolex Root Beer make it a highly desirable and sought-after timepiece. Its distinct design, rarity, and exclusivity contribute to its appeal for those who appreciate owning a watch that stands out and makes a statement.
While there are some considerations to keep in mind, such as the challenge of acquiring the watch and the deviations from the vintage model, the 2018 Rolex Root Beer remains a timepiece that combines the allure of heritage with modern advancements, making it a worthy investment for those who value quality, originality, and exclusivity.
Alternatives To The Rolex Root Beer
If you want the look of the Root Beer but can’t find one for a reasonable price, there are a few decent alternatives with similar looks at different price points:
Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G (ref. M79833MN-0001)
The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G “Root Beer” is a compelling alternative to the Rolex Root Beer, drawing inspiration from vintage Tudor and Rolex models. With its two-tone design and vintage flair, the Black Bay GMT S&G offers a touch of nostalgia.
The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G provides a more accessible price point compared to the Rolex Root Beer. Its vintage aesthetic with gold accents and a Root Beer-inspired bezel appeals to those seeking a classic look. Ultimately, the choice depends on personal preference, budget, and the significance of brand heritage.
The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G retains the same dimensions as the steel version, with a 41mm diameter and 14.6mm thickness. The case combines brushed and polished surfaces and features a screw-down crown and solid steel caseback. The watch offers a balance between presence and wearability.
The Black Bay GMT S&G features a domed matte black dial with applied hour markers and a vintage-inspired Snowflake handset. Super-LumiNova luminescence ensures legibility in low-light conditions. The dial design blends seamlessly with the two-tone aesthetics of the watch.
The standout feature is the 18K yellow gold bezel with a matte brown and black anodized aluminum insert, paying homage to the Root Beer models. The Tudor interpretation offers a retro look with a matte finish, distinguishing it from the glossy Rolex bezel. The bi-directional rotation and 24-hour scale facilitate tracking multiple time zones.
The Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G is powered by the reliable MT5652 movement. It features a silicon balance spring, operates at 28,800vph, and provides a 70-hour power reserve.
The GMT function allows for easy tracking of different time zones. Tudor offers a choice of a riveted steel and yellow gold bracelet, a fabric strap, or a leather strap for the Black Bay GMT S&G. The two-tone bracelet complements the watch’s aesthetics, while the fabric and leather options provide versatility.
The Squale 20 Atmos Root Beer Ceramic model offers a compelling alternative to the Rolex Root Beer with its upgraded case construction, unique brown ceramic bezel insert, and overall value for money. This timepiece combines quality craftsmanship, reliable movement, and an aesthetically pleasing design, making it a standout choice for watch enthusiasts.
When comparing the Squale 20 ATMOS to the Rolex Root Beer, there are several pros and cons to consider. The Squale 20 ATMOS Root Beer offers a more affordable price point while maintaining high-quality construction. However, it may lack the prestige and finishing of the Rolex counterpart. Ultimately, the decision between the two will depend on personal preference and budget.
The Squale 20 Atmos Root Beer Ceramic features a 40mm stainless steel case with improved case construction and a screw-down crown. The short curved-down lugs ensure a comfortable fit on any wrist size. The mixture of satin brush and polished finishes adds to the overall quality and appeal of the watch.
The highlight of the Squale 20 Atmos Root Beer Ceramic is its beautiful brown sunburst dial, which dances with different lighting conditions. The dial is complemented by round indices, gilt Mercedes hands, and a magnified date window with a Cyclops eye. The sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating enhances clarity and visibility.
The standout feature of this model is the brown ceramic bezel insert with gold gilt numbers. The bezel is meticulously engraved and heated to harden and purify the ceramic before being filled with gold gilt. The result is a virtually indestructible and scratch-resistant bezel that exudes a sense of luxury and durability.
Powered by either the ETA 2824 or Sellita SW200, the Squale 20 Atmos Root Beer Ceramic ensures reliable timekeeping with approximately 40 hours of power reserve. The movement operates at 28,800 BPH, offers hacking and hand-winding capabilities, and features 25 jewels for smooth and precise functionality.
The watch comes with a straight brushed stainless steel bracelet with solid end-links and screw-in links. The twin-lock clasp offers a secure closure, although it may be slightly difficult to unclip for those with short fingernails. The bracelet adds to the versatility of the timepiece, making it suitable for both formal and casual occasions.
Venezianico Nereide GMT (ref. 3521504C)
The Venezianico Nereide GMT black dial model offers a compelling alternative to the Rolex Root Beer with its combination of Italian chic, timeless elegance, and modern form.
This timepiece showcases the brand’s commitment to draw inspiration from traditional watchmaking values and mix them with innovative ideas, resulting in a unique and versatile watch.
When comparing the Venezianico Nereide GMT to the Rolex Root Beer, there are several pros and cons to consider.
The Venezianico model stands out with its Italian design, clean aesthetics, and slim shapes, offering a sense of timeless elegance. It also features a reliable Seiko NH34A automatic movement with a GMT function, allowing for precise timekeeping and the tracking of multiple time zones.
However, it may lack the prestige, quality, investment value, and recognition of the Rolex brand, and enthusiasts will prefer the brand with the crown, even if that means waiting a bit longer to be able to afford it.
The Venezianico Nereide GMT boasts a versatile 39mm case size, catering to demanding individuals who appreciate both travel functionality and reliable dive watch capabilities. With a water resistance of 20 ATM, this timepiece is designed to withstand severe stress and pressure changes. The carefully engraved caseback, depicting the globe and time zones, adds a touch of craftsmanship to the overall design.
The Nereide GMT features a black dial with polished, hand-applied indices coated with luminescent BGW9 Super-LumiNova pigment for excellent legibility in dark conditions. The hard sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating ensures durability and clarity, while the glossy finish of the dial and bezel adds a touch of elegance.
The watch showcases an eye-catching unidirectional black and light brown rotating sports bezel with BK7 optical glass inserts, known for its lightness and low-dispersion properties. The glossy finish of the bezel complements the overall aesthetics of the timepiece.
Powered by the Seiko NH34A automatic movement, the Venezianico Nereide GMT offers reliable timekeeping and a power reserve of 41 hours. The inclusion of the GMT function allows wearers to track a second timezone independently.
The Venezianico Nereide GMT features the Canova silver bracelet made of 316L stainless steel, known for its durability and elegance. The registered design of the bracelet includes 16 different parts with an integrated butterfly clasp, ensuring a secure and comfortable fit on the wrist.
Conclusion
The Rolex Root Beer holds a significant place in the world of luxury timepieces, with its rich history and enduring appeal. Whether you opt for the vintage models or the modern iteration, the Root Beer offers a unique combination of style and functionality.
Use this guide as a reference to make an informed decision that aligns with your individual style and aspirations and embark on a horological journey that resonates with your unique personality.
Rolex is the most well-known luxury watch brand in the world. Selling well over a million units a year, ranked number one in Swiss watch exports by overall revenue, and ranked as the number one most reputable company by RepTrak 2016 through 2019, and again in 2022, they have built a seemingly bulletproof reputation.
While it is a reputation the rest of the watch industry is surely envious of, what is seemingly more impressive is that they have managed to build this reputation in its relatively short history. A large part of their storied history and success depends on one model, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust.
About the Rolex Datejust
With the many advancements of modern watchmaking, it is easy to take the Datejust for granted. In its most famous form, the Datejust is a 36mm wide steel case watch with either a smooth steel or fluted gold bezel and a steel bracelet or two-tone steel and gold bracelet. The only functions are the time, running seconds, and the date.
Aside from the prestigious brand, little sets it apart from more common and attainable watches. However, if it were not for Rolex producing the Datejust, the modern concept of a timepiece that was functional, durable, and fashionable (the “go anywhere, do anything” watch) would likely not exist.
Now, every brand has an equivalent timepiece. While other brands have made watches similar in function to the Datejust, Rolex managed to produce both quality, volume, and effective advertising to allow it to be at the forefront of the public’s mind when it comes to a luxury watch suitable for daily wear.
History of the Rolex Datejust
Building on their prior innovation of producing one of the earliest self-winding water-resistant watches, titled the Oyster Perpetual, Rolex introduced the Datejust in 1945. The Datejust was the first automatic watch to have a date that changed autonomously at midnight. To become the icon we know today, Rolex added the magnifying cyclops to the model in 1953.
In 1957, a ladies’ model was introduced. Since then, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust has been a mainstay in the Rolex catalog. While the sport-oriented models (referred to currently as the Professional Line by Rolex) get the bulk of attention from enthusiasts, the classic models like the Datejust are the most popular overall in terms of sales.
What Makes a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust
Often imitated and with numerous variations, it is impressive how Rolex has managed to make the Datejust an easily identifiable icon distinguishable from imitators, regardless of variations and updates over the years.
The Oyster Case
While easy to take for granted, the Oyster case for the Classic models has a curved and polished case side. The case design wears more like a cushion case than a traditional round case, as the lugs are large and extend from the case side down to the bracelet, giving the watch an integrated bracelet look with the metal bracelet options while using traditional lugs and spring bars.
It is worth noting that the spring bar holes are drilled quite close to the case, making some aftermarket straps difficult to fit. The most popular material option has been stainless steel, but the Datejust was originally released in gold. Throughout the years, Rolex has offered the watch in steel, two-tone steel, and gold, and a variety of gold options. Ladies Datejust watches have also been offered in platinum.
Bracelet Options
Arguably the most iconic bracelet option for the Rolex Datejust is the Jubilee bracelet. Released as part of Rolex’s jubilee celebration (along with the Datejust), the five-link design with two larger outer links and 3 small inner links, making the bracelet robust yet dressy.
The center links have always been polished throughout the bracelet’s history, with the outer links being brushed. Originally offered only in solid gold, the Jubilee bracelet has been offered in steel, two-tone, and gold.
The other metal bracelet option for the Datejust and equally iconic for Rolex is the Oyster bracelet. A three-link design with three larger sections, this is the bracelet design that is most commonly associated with the Professional models. Preferred by some collectors for its more substantial presence, the Oyster bracelet is more casual/sporting in its appearance.
On more contemporary precious metal references, there have been leather strap options, and references with the President style bracelet, mainly the smaller 31mm and 27mm models. The leather strap options have a metal end-link that the strap attaches to, further emphasizing the modern integrated look.
The most outlandish option is a diamond set rubber strap on the 116189BBR. If you love zebra print, this model is worth a look.
Bezel Options
When it comes to the Classic line of Rolex watches, part of the iconic look is the fluted bezel.
The fluted bezel is made out of gold, and the polished bezel has alternating raised and lowered sections that reflect well in a variety of light, making the watches very eye-catching. Most commonly associated with the two-tone steel and yellow gold models are steel watches with white gold fluted bezels, and more contemporary references have offered steel and rose gold.
The bracelet will always match the bezel, with the steel and white gold references having steel bracelets. Entirely precious metal references have been offered with both fluted and smooth bezels.
The smooth bezel is another popular option, usually seen on all steel references, but has been offered in the two-tone and precious metal references as well. If the fluted bezel is the most jewelry oriented and formal, the smooth bezel is more subdued.
On older references, the bezel is relatively flat, with it sloping upwards toward the crystal from the case. Modern 6-digit references have bezels that are more domed than flat, which give a more substantial and contemporary look to the timepiece.
Additionally, there are engine-turned bezels. Made out of steel, these watches have either a fine groove texture or a wider, less polished texture similar to the fluted bezel. These models offer a way to add interest to the watch without the added cost.
Particularly of note of the metal bezel options, there are the Turn-O-Graph models. Made with precious metal bezels, these models have a bi-directional rotating bezel that can be used to time events. Initially intended for pilots, these watches offer a slightly more sporty take on the Datejust that still keeps the sartorial flexibility associated with the model.
Finally, on the jewelry-oriented pieces, there is the option of a diamond set bezel, which is always set in the corresponding precious metal on the watch.
Dial Variety
Where prospective Datejust owners are really spoiled for choice is in regards to dial options. Over the years, there have been a wide variety of dial options with varying textures, including honeycomb in some vintage models, vertical striping, sunbursts, matte, glossy, and sun-ray, to name a handful.
More contemporary jewelry-oriented models have what Rolex calls the “Jubilee Dial,” which has a Rolex motif printed on the dial and some diamond settings on the dial. Speaking of gemstones, there are many iterations ranging from diamond hour markers to full pavé dials covered in diamonds. There are also a number of variations of mother-of-pearl dials.
Besides diamond-set indices, there are numerous iterations for indices, including stick indices, Roman numerals, Arabic numerals, and sometimes combinations of different styles. The only way collectors may feel some limitation is in regard to dial colors.
Recent collections have included green dials with palm leaf motifs, and there have been some that have had more subtle pink and salmon hues. Most of the history of the Datejust has consisted of conventional dial colors; black, silver, white, and blue.
These more conservative dial tones speak to the intended purpose of the watch, the ability to go anywhere and do anything and look the part while doing it. A Datejust worn in confidence will look great with a bathing suit and a boardroom suit.
Should a bold dial be desired, the textured dials and a few bolder colors are available. Full precious metal Datejust watches have some more outlandish dial offerings. Additionally, popular aftermarket customization is to have boldly colored dials. While not always desired by hardcore collectors, a custom dial will make your Datejust stand out.
Rolex Datejust Reference Numbers
With Datejust’s long history, there have been numerous reference numbers associated with the model. For the sake of this article, we will give attention to the 36mm models.
Broadly speaking, there are 4-digit, 5-digit, and 6-digit references, each referring to a general period of production. 4-digit references were produced before the late-1970s. 5-digit references were produced from the late 1970s to 1999, and finally 6-digit references began in the year 2000.
The first Datejust 36 reference numbers start with 6XXX, followed by 16XX. The five digit reference number Datejust watches start with 162XX. The six digit references start with 1162XX, and the most modern Datejusts start with 1262XX. An early Datejust example would be the 6304, and then the generations following are the 1601 and 1603.
After the four-digit references, the last two digits were codified to describe other aspects of the watch. The second to last number dealt with the bezel style, with 0 meaning smooth, 1 meaning engine-turned, 3 meaning fluted, and 6 referring to the Turn-O-Graph models.
The last digit refers to the material of the watch, with 0 corresponding to steel, 1 referring to two-tone steel and Everose gold, 3 referring to steel and yellow gold, 4 referring to steel and white gold, 5 being solid 18k Everose gold, 6 being platinum, 8 referring to 18k yellow gold, and 9 referring to 18k white gold.
To give an example, a six-digit two-tone Everrose and steel Turn-O-Graph would have the reference number 116261.
Current Rolex Datejust Pricing
With limited availability for Rolex watches across the board causing historically high prices, even accounting for some recent adjustments as of Summer of 2023, Datejusts are not spared from this. Still widely popular compared to the Professional models, the Datejust does not get the same amount of media attention, and their large overall production numbers mean that they are more readily available on the second-hand market.
Again, focusing on the 36mm models, a vintage steel 1603 can be found as low as around 3000$, but one in better condition, and maybe some original paperwork would be closer to 4000$. Two-tone four-digit references start at around 3600$, with better examples starting again at around 4000$. Solid gold examples on a strap can be found for about 6400$, but jump to over 10,000$ for examples with a solid gold bracelet.
Early five-digit references start around 4000$, again rising depending on condition and materials. Models with a sapphire crystal (starting in the late 1980s/early 1990s) start at around 5000$. As of July 2023, a five-digit Datejust tops out at approximately 55,000$ for a full gold case and bracelet example with diamonds on the dial from the factory.
The six-digit references top out at around 65,000$ for the 116189BBR already mentioned. A full gold 116208 can be had for about 28,000$. Two-tone 116XXX references, including white gold bezeled models, seem to stay between 10,000 and 16,000$ depending on the condition and box and papers. Full steel models start at around 7500$.
The most modern 126XXX models start at around $7500 on the secondary market, and that includes box and papers. The most expensive two-tone models with diamond bezels and dials are currently trading for around 36,000$. As part of the current collection posted on the Rolex website, there are no full precious metal models being offered.
As with almost any Rolex currently, more desirable models and configurations will carry a premium compared to their original retail price and/or less desirable iterations. Regarding vintage models, condition and documentation play a big role. If you are looking to achieve the lowest price possible, a common dial configuration in worn but good condition will be a good and safe option.
With well-worn pieces, it is best to do a good amount of research and pay accordingly if they interest you. The older a watch gets, the less important having the original box and papers is. It would be very cool if a 6305 could be found with all of the original boxes and paperwork, but expect to pay a corresponding premium for that watch.
Who Is the Datejust for?
The versatility of the Datejust is its greatest selling point. The combination of good looks and durability makes it suitable for almost every occasion a normal person will encounter. While Rolex watches are seen as status symbols of success and achievement, the Datejust is oddly as close to the watch for everyman as a Rolex will get. With the wide variety of case, dial, bezel, and bracelet options, there is likely a Datejust that will interest almost every collector.
If the Datejust is just too clichéd for you, there is also the Oysterquartz Datejust. More of an enthusiast favorite and definite oddity, these overbuilt quartz watches are nothing to look down at, as an Oysterquartz Datejust accompanied Reinhold Messner on his 1978 climb of Mt. Everest without oxygen.
Conclusion
While not entirely comprehensive, this guide should equip readers with enough information to confidently enter the world of Rolex Datejust watches. The many iterations over the decades that this model has been in production means that there is likely a model for everyone. There are many more complicated, robust, and unique watches out there, but a Rolex Datejust is often the only watch one needs.
Rolex is a brand that has achieved legendary status. If you ask someone on the street to name a luxury watch brand, almost everyone will default to saying “Rolex”. Having a Rolex is a testament to success, and with so many models available, the perfect Rolex is out there waiting for you.
One of Rolex’s most desirable models is the GMT-Master II, a statement piece that shines in the light. Over the years, fans have given various nicknames to different colorways. For example, a sleek red and black colorway is affectionately known as “Coke,” while a red and blue colorway is the “Pepsi”.
Besides fizzy soft drinks, fans also love superhero nicknames. The main focus of today will be the “Batman”, a blue and black GMT-Master II. Let’s dive into the world of superheroes, watches, and more!
About the Rolex Batman
The Rolex GMT-Master has been around since 1954 and is one of the most famous watches with a GMT feature. The GMT is an extremely useful complication because it lets users track a second time zone. Originally designed for world travelers and pilots, now the GMT complication is something everyone can enjoy.
Rolex dominated the GMT watch category for many years, and in 1983 they released the second version of their GMT watches. The watch we are interested in, the Rolex Batman, swooped into Baselworld in 2013, delighting everyone with its modern upgrades, sleek design, and premium materials. Fans dubbed the new blue and black GMT Master-II the “Batman”, after Gotham’s famous caped crusader.
Rolex Batman Models
The original release of the 116710BLNR took the watch world by storm in 2013. Not only did Rolex release a new color variation that fans raved about, Rolex packed the watch with every modern luxury that they had at the time.
One of the most important innovations was the dual-color ceramic bezel made out of Rolex’s proprietary Cerachrom material. The ceramic bezel is virtually scratch-proof and will look brand-new for years to come. The dual-color ceramic was one of the first to use the dark blue and black colorway, which helped the watch stand out even more.
The original “Batman” also exclusively came fitted with Rolex’s famous oyster-style bracelet. This is in contrast to the later 2019 release, the 126710BLNR-003. This later model came fitted on the classy jubilee bracelet. The bracelet is the main difference between these two watches.
They are virtually identical, except for the small dial signature on the 2019 watch. The latest black and blue GMT-Master II has been dubbed the “Batgirl”, after Batman’s occasional ally and sidekick. Both the Batman and Batgirl are extremely similar, and either model is a winner to any watch collector.
The case is very similar to the previous version. The lugs are shaped slightly differently, so it hugs the wrist a little better. Both watches are 40mm in diameter, a perfect size for nearly any wrist. The case is a combination of brushed detail work and shiny polishing. Every edge gently slopes and looks superb in the light.
Finally, Rolex’s very own Oystersteel is used for the entire case construction. This hardy material is tough enough to handle any of life’s challenges. Regardless of these modifications, the original is still a contender for perfect case design.
Dial
The dial is classic Rolex styling. Legibility is absolutely king on this watch. Instead of Arabic numerals, Rolex uses a combination of circles, triangles, and rectangles to create a super clean dial. This design has seen very little change over the years and has never lost its appeal.
One of the big differences between this newer version of the Batman and the original 2013 release is the small crown between the “Swiss Made” stamp at the 6 o’clock position. This small detail is an added touch of flair to an already stylish watch.
The Mercedes-style hands are as reliable as ever, and the large, blue GMT hand will remain one of the watch’s most popular features. The wonderful contrast between the jet-black dial, the blue seconds hand, and the half-blue dial are stunning. Overall, the dial is a master class in classic design.
Movement
The latest version of the Batman uses Rolex’s latest GMT-focused movement, the Caliber 3285. This new movement replaces the older movement, the Caliber 3186. The new movement is slightly larger than the old one and has a larger power reserve at 70 hours. The GMT function is further improved with this new movement, and Rolex uses it in numerous other watches as well.
Another innovation in this movement is Rolex’s new Chronergy escapement. This updated technology is claimed to improve the movement’s already impressive mechanical efficiency. Finally, as a Superlative Chronometer, the Batman is guaranteed by Rolex to be extremely accurate and precise. Most measurements put the watch at +/- 2 seconds per day.
Bracelet
Of course, the most noticeable change from the 2013 release is the jubilee bracelet. Some people prefer the elegant and refined look of the jubilee over the utilitarian and blocky oyster bracelet. In general, a Rolex with a jubilee bracelet is seen as more classy and sophisticated. Indeed, the stepwise, geometric pattern of the jubilee bracelet is extremely pleasing to look at.
The bracelet is also extremely comfortable and can easily conform to any wrist shape due to the flexibility of the links. However, future owners should be aware that this flexibility may also become a weakness in the future. Many jubilee bracelets eventually develop a very noticeable curve or stretch to one side, caused by friction and wear over time. Proper care of this elegant bracelet is essential to maintaining the look of this amazing timepiece.
Should You Buy a Rolex Batman?
A Rolex Batman is an easy choice for a gentleman that wants a functional, stylish, and luxurious timepiece. The bright pop of blue is easy to spot across the room, and people will definitely notice the amazing quality and premium feel.
The Batman is an extremely practical timepiece that could easily be a one-watch collection. The GMT is as functional as ever, with a buttery smooth mechanism that helps track a second time zone. The large date at the 3 o’clock position is greatly magnified by the crystal clear cyclops. The silky oyster or jubilee bracelet fits perfectly on the wrist.
It will conform to the shape of your wrist and be securely fastened, thanks to the ultra-secure clasp that Rolex is famous for. Anyone lucky enough to have the Batman on their wrist will notice the hardened ceramic, amazing color contrast, and jet-black dial.
Adding a Batman to the collection is a natural decision for a fortunate watch lover. This watch is the perfect watch for daily wear. The bezel features a combination of black and blue colors, which adds a sense of refinement and versatility to the accessory.
Whether in a formal event or a fun excursion on the beach, the Batman will look good with any outfit and in any situation. The universal appeal of classic Rolex design philosophy and perceived status make this an enticing choice for anyone looking to buy one.
Rolex Batman Price Guide
The Rolex Batman has an MSRP of $10,900. However, you would definitely be lucky to snatch one of these watches for its retail value. The extremely high demand has shot the Batman’s prices through the roof, easily ballooning to nearly double its MSRP. Getting one at retail is going to involve an agonizing wait on an Authorized Dealer’s waitlist. Some of these waitlists are backed up for a year or longer.
The Rolex Batman is a hot model in one of the most attractive colorways. The price will only go up, so keen buyers will need to monitor the price on the secondary market carefully. In regards to value retention, the Batman seems to be a good investment and will keep its value. Given how popular the model is, the demand is always going to be high.
Alternatives To The Rolex Batman
The Rolex Batman is a dream for many people. It is a big commitment to spend so much on one watch. The ultra-cool blue and black ceramic bezel is highly enticing. There’s just something about that color combo that really makes it stand out.
Luckily, there are other options out there that are similar to the Rolex Batman. The following three watches are much more affordable and still have the awesome colorway that everyone loves.
Timex is the first on the list and is easily the most affordable. In recent years, Timex has really stepped up its game and offers great timepieces for an affordable price. The M79 is one such example, which takes classic designs and puts its own unique spin on it. This watch comes in a variety of popular colors, like a “root beer” and “Coke” variety, but of course, we are interested in the “Batman” model.
This 40mm automatic watch is slim, functional, and stylish. The mesh bracelet is stretchy and easily adjustable. There is no GMT hand on this watch, but it does have a useful day and date window at the 3 o’clock position. In addition, there is an exhibition caseback and the famous Mercedes hands that everyone loves.
Yema Superman 500 GMT Batman (ref. YGMT22C39-AMS1)
The Yema Superman is one of the French brand’s flagship models. This 39mm GMT watch is a little more understated than the Rolex Batman due to the less bold bezel around the dial. The numbers are much smaller, and the bezel itself does not sit as tall on the watch. There is a unique mechanism near the crown, which Yema calls the bezel-lock. This improves the smoothness of the bezel and keeps the watch extra secure.
Yema has also achieved this by redesigning the crown and bezel to improve functionality. In addition to the GMT function, the watch is water resistant to up to 500 meters. The Superman really can do it all, all while wearing the colors of Batman!
This stunning GMT from TAG Heuer is our final recommendation for an alternative to the Rolex Batman. With the Aquaracer, you are getting an elegant GMT with plenty of visual appeal. The beautiful sunray blue dial is definitely one of the highlights of the watch.
The deep, grooved horizontal lines on the dial are equal parts exciting and mesmerizing. The bezel is very similar to the Batman, with its bold and chunky numbers, but the shape is more angled. The Aquaracer even has the Cyclops magnifying the date and a similar stainless steel clasp. The Caliber 7 automatic movement powers the Aquaracer with a respectable 50 hours of power reserve.
Conclusion
The Rolex Batman is going to be popular for a very long time. Discontinuing the Batman with the oyster bracelet only further magnified its popularity. No matter which watch you choose, you will have an investment piece that will always fit in any collection.
The timeless design will keep you delighted for many years to come. Plus, with the Batman’s premium materials, it will look just as good as the day you bought it. It’s easy to see why Rolex is the king of modern luxury, with its timeless design, legendary status, and amazing watchmaking.
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