Category: Seiko

Life is full of different situations, and the good news is that Seiko probably has a watch for every one of them. Need to time your race car on the track? Seiko has a chronograph for that. Going to a fancy event? Seiko makes stylish dress watches that fit perfectly under a tuxedo cuff. 

Planning to dive 1,000 meters? Seiko has a serious dive watch for the job. See the pattern? Seiko makes watches for all kinds of lifestyles—whether you’re active, ambitious, or just need something reliable. With so many different styles and price ranges, Seiko knows exactly what it’s doing—and has been doing it for a long time. 

You can find Seiko watches at your local mall, but they’re also sold in high-end watch shops alongside pieces that cost 100 times more. So, that brings us to the big question: Are Seiko watches really worth it?

Seiko Watches in the Past

Seiko has been around for a long time, starting in 1881—about 20 years before Rolex was founded. It was originally based in Tokyo, Japan, and continues to be made there today. Seiko first made wall clocks in the late 1800s and later moved on to making pocket watches. 

When wristwatches became popular worldwide, Seiko began making their own wristwatches in the early 1900s. Over the next 100 years, Seiko kept improving and creating new ideas for watches and watch movements. In 1964, Seiko even became the official timekeeper for the Olympic Games. 

Later, Seiko made the first quartz watch, which changed the watch industry. Seiko’s goal has always been to innovate and lead with new ideas. Some of their firsts include the first TV watch, the first diver’s watch to go 600 meters deep, the first six-digit LCD quartz watch, and the first GPS solar watch. Seiko also owns other brands like Grand Seiko and Credor, which are known for their highly accurate movements.

In the 1980s, during the quartz crisis, many luxury watch brands struggled financially after Seiko introduced the quartz movement.

The quartz watch was much more accurate than mechanical watches and was affordable for the general public. Because of this, Seiko became the leader in affordable and mid-range watches at the time.

Seiko Watches Today

Seiko is a well-known brand recognized for its reliability and affordability. You can often find Seiko watches in malls, and they offer great value for the price. Some Seiko watches cost over $100, look amazing, and can easily match many different outfits.

Seiko has a number of popular models that are easily recognized and have interesting names. Let’s take a look at a few of my favorites that Seiko makes.

One of them is the Seiko Prospex SNJ025, also known as the “Arnie.” According to Seiko’s website, this watch is “designed for those who treat life as the ultimate adventure.” This watch is on the larger side, with a 47.8mm case diameter and a thickness of 14.7mm. 

So, how did it get its famous name? Back in the mid-1980s, actor Arnold Schwarzenegger wore this watch in two movies. The watch was updated in 2019, and it’s been called the “Arnie” ever since.

Another fan-favorite is the Seiko “Turtle”. This is a dive watch with a 44mm case diameter and 14mm thickness. The Turtle has a cushion-shaped case, which makes it comfortable to wear, even with its larger size. 

Its unique shape means it fits well on wrists that are 6.5 inches or larger. It’s an automatic watch with a day-and-date function powered by the 4R36 movement with a 40-hour power reserve. Due to its cushion-shaped case, it was naturally nicknamed the Turtle because the case resembles a turtle’s shell.

Then there’s the Seiko “Samurai”, a name that just sounds tough. This watch is sharp-looking and comes in great color choices. It’s 41.7mm, but there are versions with a 43.8mm case diameter. The Samurai has gone through several updates, making it more appealing to the mass market. 

One of the versions has a burgundy dial and bezel, which looks fantastic in person. Though I’m not usually into red, this watch has definitely changed my mind. The black-on-black version is also a killer, offering great proportions and a date feature.

There’s the Seiko Blueberry, which is likely going to be my next purchase. This watch essentially replaced the popular SKX line, which was also my first Seiko. It has a 43mm case diameter and a water resistance of 100 meters. The Blueberry is a GMT watch with a black and blue 24-hour bezel and a date function. 

Within the SSK line, there are many variations if the black and blue aren’t your style. Some might even say this watch is an affordable alternative to the Rolex GMT Batman—though I’ll keep the comparison light.

With no waitlist and a much lower price compared to a Rolex GMT, I think this watch is a solid option. But enough with the wild comparisons!

Finally, one more watch my wife owns is the Seiko Cocktail Time Date from the Presage lineup. The one I want to highlight is the SRPE15, the green dial version with a bracelet. It has an automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve and a 40mm case diameter. 

This watch looks incredible for its price and offers a lot of value. I always recommend buying a watch on a bracelet first—you can always switch to different straps later.

Over the past few years, green has become the new blue, and Seiko has done a great job keeping up with that trend. My wife has the smaller pink version, which she really likes. 

It made an awesome gift for a birthday, anniversary, or some other special occasion—though, honestly, I can’t even remember which one.

With all the gifts we have to buy, it’s hard to keep track! The bracelet is comfortable enough to wear all day, but it’s easy to swap it for a leather strap if you want to change up the look.

What Makes Seiko Watches Stand Out?

When it comes to affordable watches, Seiko is the leader. What makes Seiko stand out is the huge variety of models they offer. They have so many competitively priced watches that fit different lifestyles. 

Seiko isn’t afraid to experiment with unique designs, like the Turtle and Samurai. On top of that, they have other standout models like the Sumo and Alpinist, each with distinct features. When I think of the Alpinist, the first thing that comes to mind is the green dial and gold numbers on the SARB017. 

There’s really nothing else in the same price range that competes with it, and that’s what makes Seiko stand out. They offer great value for the money. Another signature Seiko feature is the crown at the 4 o’clock position on many of their watches. 

And let’s not forget about their lume—Seiko’s LumiBrite charges faster and lasts longer than the lume used by most other brands, especially on their dive watches.

Should you get a Seiko Watch?

The short answer is yes, and the longer answer is also yes. Depending on where you are in your collection, a Seiko can be a great “beater” watch or your daily wearer. There are so many Seiko watches being made that you’re sure to find one that fits your style and lifestyle. 

Seiko listens to its customers and makes changes to keep its watches innovative. Remember, Seiko has a long history of being part of many firsts in the watch world. Seiko is well-known for being a reliable and affordable brand. 

While other brands like Citizen and Orient offer great watches in the same price range, Seiko competes with higher-end brands like Hamilton and Tissot too. These four brands all make great watches in their own markets, but Seiko stands out because it competes across the entire range.

Conclusion

I honestly think Seiko offers so many options that you can keep searching until you find the one that’s perfect for you.

I used to own a Seiko SKX, which I wore for several years before passing it on to my younger brother. At first, I didn’t think much of it, but that watch eventually got him into collecting watches. 

He bought a Seiko Cocktail with his first “big boy” paycheck, and now he’s hooked on collecting watches. So, is this brand worth considering or worth the money? As my younger brother would say, “Yuh.” Seiko offers watches at different price points that fit almost any budget and will give you that feeling of joy every time you look at your wrist.

Seiko is a Japanese watch brand that was founded in 1881, aiming to thrive for reliable watches with constant innovation, and most importantly at a great and competitive price. Today, they are one of the biggest watch brands in the world. 

Some people might think that the true luxury and reputable watch brands are only from Switzerland but this cannot be further than the truth. Seiko at one point in time, almost single handedly wiped out the Swiss watch industry by creating a revolutionary watch movement, known as the quartz movement. 

This incident, famously called the quartz crisis (or infamously for the Swiss watch companies), have been one of the greatest successes that Seiko have made in their long history by making amazing watches at an unbelievable price point.

Till this day, Seiko stays true to their mantra and continues doing so by creating the three tiers for their watches. Seiko 5, Seiko and Grand Seiko. And among their large collection of watches, the Seiko 5 collection is the truest to that statement. 

Seiko 5 Watches in the Past

In this section, you should explain how Seiko 5 watches were viewed in the past, how and where they were manufactured, etc. and a brief history about them.

The Seiko 5 was first released by Seiko in 1963, Japan and aimed to focus on younger audiences who wanted a more fun and interesting sports watch but also affordable at the same time. The first ever model was named the Sportsmatic 5, featuring their first ever automatic watch that also has a day-date complication located at the 3 o’clock. 

You might wonder, why did Seiko call this collection Seiko 5? The original designer of the Sportsmatic 5, Ren Tanaka, claimed that “5” was a playful uneven number and suits the collection. 

However, Seiko suggests that the “5” represents the 5 important attributes that a Seiko 5 should have: an automatic movement, a day-date complication at the 3 o’clock position, water resistance, a recessed crown at the 4 o’clock position and having a sturdy bracelet and case. 

Besides the important 5 features, the Seiko 5 logo is also drastically different from the older one. The older logo almost has a badge around the number 5 and the new one is more angular and aggressive looking without the badge. Depending on your personality you might like the older logo better (which I do) or the newer logo better.

As described, the “5” remains a very important part of Seiko’s history and this helped strengthen the product planning and also their marketing strategy, making it an iconic but also meaningful symbol in their collection. 

Seiko 5 Watches Today

In this section, you should discuss what’s the current status of Seiko 5, how the brand is perceived, which are some popular models, etc.

Fast forward to today, about 60 years later, Seiko 5 remains one of the most popular watches sold in the Seiko range. The current status of Seiko 5 also remains very similar to the original Seiko 5 that was released about 60 years ago, remaining and respecting the same 5 attributes that makes a Seiko 5, a Seiko 5. 

At this moment, Seiko 5 is viewed as the youngest brother in the Seiko 5 and the most affordable range, suitable for students or young adults who are getting into the tough adult life. 

Seiko 5 also represents the more fun and quirky side of Seiko as they often have collaboration with fun and in trend entertainment such as Japanese anime like Naruto, One Piece and even car brands like Honda. Thus, you can really tell why the younger audiences like the Seiko 5 more. 

They offer 4 different serieses in the Seiko 5, ranging from sporty, to everyday, to even limited edition collections! The official names for the series are not too easy to remember though so I will describe it in detail.

Field Series: As the name suggests, it is based on a design of a typical field watch and a field watch would generally have the future of a 24 hour index on the dial, allowing the users to track night time or day time. This collection comes with different case material finishes (black or steel), sizes, dial colors and strap options.

SKX Series: The name is based on the very popular SKX (SKX007, SKX0013) models in the past and since its discontinuation, the fans have mourned for it so in order to fix that, Seiko actually keeps that heritage.

This series mainly focuses on sporty watches consisting of dive watches and GMTs, and it also has a few standard 3 handed everyday watches as well for both men and women.

SNXS Series: Similar to the SKX series, this is also based on the old SNXS model. This is famously known for the UFO-style case design and a standard three link stainless steel bracelet, accompanied with different dial colors. You can view this as a 3 handed everyday watch but with a bit of character. 

Supercars series: As the name suggests, it is a collaboration with supercars such as Honda and more. This series are mainly special editions or limited editions that come with a special box. As for the watches, it is similar to the SKX series but with a bit of flair when it comes to the design. 

Among all the different watches , the most popular model from the Seiko 5 series is the Seiko 5 sports SKX series. They are essentially dive watches with a series of different colors on the dial and bezel. If you want something more classic, they have it. If you want something more fun and unique, they have it too. 

From the amount of choices that you can choose from to the affordability of an automatic dive watch, it’s easy to see why they are the most popular model in the Seiko 5 collection.

What Makes Seiko 5 Watches Stand Out?

Undoubtedly the best thing about Seiko 5 is how competitive the pricing is, especially for the quality of the watch. They range from $150 to around $650. This price point attracts the majority of people out there who just want a solid automatic watch that just works with an attractive price.

The entire Seiko 5 range has in house Seiko automatic movements. This means every single part of their mechanical watches are researched, made and assembled by Seiko themselves. This is particularly useful as they are able to control the quality better and make it consistent throughout all their models. 

Furthermore, at this price point, it is very rare that you can find a watch that features a fully mechanical in-house automatic movement. Most models have around a 40 hour power reserve and also 5 years international guarantee, which is very solid again at this price point.

Not only that, the finishing of the case and bracelet is excellent. You often get different kinds of finishing on them, such as a high polishing contrasting with brushed finishing, making the watch look more appealing. 

From classic looking sports watches to fun colour-ed dive watches, it pretty much covers most designs in the watch market and will cover 99% of people’s taste in watches. Not only that, they also offer limited edition and special edition timepieces to even fit a wider audience. 

Seiko isn’t a brand new brand by any means and has been around for about 150 years, which is crazy to think about. They have so much history behind its archive that even most luxury brands cannot compare today.

This long history behind Seiko just gives us, as buyers, more confidence in the brain as they are more reputable and reliable. Besides, it is always good and a peace of mind to know that your Seiko 5 is and always be part of the long history that Seiko has.

Watches at this price point are hard to beat and most of them around this price are also hard to find. Most of them are sold online through their website or through a third party jeweler.

This would significantly impact the experience for someone who is looking to try on one of the watches to get an actual feel of it. More often than not, the watches that you see online might look great but do not fit on your wrist.

It is also a better experience that you can compare lots of different models on the spot to choose what you actually want. Seiko has so many boutiques throughout the world and even if Seiko does not have a stand alone boutique, Seiko 5 watches can also be found at most multi branded watch stores such as Exquisite Timepieces. 

Should you get a Seiko 5 Watch?

In this section, you should discuss whether it’s a good idea to buy Seiko 5 watches, who they are for, what alternatives they have, etc.

As discussed previously and judging by the tone of this review, you could probably already tell that it’s an easy yes from me. And I’ll give you my personal experience on a Seiko 5 as well.

I have two Seiko 5s, a SNK355 and the very popular SNK807. Even though both models are not in their current lineup anymore, you are still able to get them from some retailers.

The SNK355 was my first ever automatic watch and I still remember till this day the first time I got it. It was beautiful. The finishing on the dial was excellent. The 37mm case suits me perfectly and the bracelet just wraps around the wrist very well.

It was very comfortable and most importantly, (for me at the time), it had an open case back. Sure, an open case back feature nowadays is not a luxury to have but to me, it was super impactful because I was able to see how everything worked in this little watch of mine mechanically. The whole package was just beautiful. 

Fast forward to today, I still wear it every now and then, reminding myself how far I have come and the watch has never skipped a beat. I love how simple looking it is and how timeless the design is. I love how “Saturday” on the date window is blue in colour and “ Sunday” is in red. This watch will always be a part of me. 

The SNK807 was a gift from my brother and you share the same characteristics of a typical Seiko 5 but in a more utilitarian look. The case is entirely brushed and the buckle as well, giving it a more casual look along with the matte blue dial.

It is certainly a fun weekend watch and I enjoy wearing it from time to time. The only slight downside I would say is the fabric strap wears out very easily and I needed to change the strap in a year or more. But, I did wear it quite a bit so it was quite expected for the strap to be worn down. Again, as expected, it runs smoothly and has never failed me once and always keeps on ticking. 

Other than the two models I have mentioned, Seiko 5 obviously has way more models out there for you to unpack. Besides, the modern Seiko’s are getting more expensive every year but luckily, the Seiko 5 prices remain relatively similar throughout the years. This will be perfect for someone who wants something more affordable and entry level. 

Most of the models that they have in their catalogue focuses more on sporty models and thus, will suit best for younger adults or even teenagers who are looking to get into the rabbit hole of watches. 

From the bottom of my heart, I seriously think a Seiko 5 is such a solid watch for anyone who is looking to get their first automatic watch. It looks beautiful, super reliable, easy to get and super affordable. It has the whole package that everyone should seriously consider. 

Conclusion

Seiko 5 has been viewed by many watch enthusiasts around the world and highly recommended by everyone and it is easy to see why.

With their long history of making watches, and focusing on providing the best bang for your buck watch, the Seiko 5 never truly feels like they are cutting corners on their watches and in fact, it surprises me every time how much watch you’re getting for your money. 

I have personally owned two Seiko 5’s for several years and I have never regretted buying one, and you certainly will not regret too.

If you’re a Seiko fan or even just a casual watch lover, chances are you’ve heard of the Seiko Alpinist. This also means you’ve probably heard of, or at least seen in passing, either the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 or SPB121. With their green dials, golden accents, and signature internal compass bezels, these two models have become, for many collectors, the flagship Alpinist. 

But yes, these are two gateway watches that look almost identical. They are two very similar versions of the Alpinist, so understandably, many of us struggle to comprehend the differences between them, which makes it hard to pick between the two when it comes to purchasing one for our own wrists. 

But alas, there are a few differences to note. While the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 is the oldest of the two, and now sadly discontinued, the SPB121 is still holding strong in Seiko’s lineup.

You might have also spotted a few tweaks to the case dimensions, movement, and case back décor. These might not seem like big differences, but as any watch collector will argue, these small details can make all the difference. 

So, to help you decide between the Seiko Alpinist SARB017 and SPB121, let’s take a look at what each of these watches have to offer.

Why the Seiko Alpinist in the First Place? 

Seiko is probably best known for their diving watches, otherwise known as the Prospex collection, or their luxury sister company Grand Seiko. However, another family considered a big deal, especially with collectors who appreciate retro design, is the Seiko Alpinist. 

It’s a watch that debuted in 1961 and made history as Seiko’s first-ever “sports watch.” It was designed to be a rugged, reliable timepiece that could withstand the harsh conditions faced by mountain climbers in Japan. It had to be tough, legible, and ready to handle the great outdoors. 

The original Alpinist, named the Seiko Laurel, was a true milestone for the brand. It featured the now-iconic arrow markers at 12, 3, 6, and 9, and was available in black and cream dials. In the watch-collecting world, these inaugural versions are considered the holy grails of Alpinists. 

Fast forward to today, and the Alpinist has evolved into one of Seiko’s most beloved models. Its popularity skyrocketed with the release of the SARB017 (yes, one of the models we’re looking at today), which became a collector’s favorite before it was discontinued. 

Other modern-day models like the Baby Alpinist have also proved the collection’s popularity. Truthfully, the Alpinist, in all its forms, deserves a place in any collector’s watch box, but as I’m sure you’ve realized by now, the Seiko SARB017 and SPB121 are two of the most coveted – and for good reason.

The Seiko SARB017

Aside from the Seiko Laurel, the Alpinist SARB017 might just be one of the most important designs to join the explorer-inspired line-up. Released in 2006 as part of the brand’s SARB series, this model represented the fifth generation of the Alpinist. 

Its release came at the perfect time when the watch enthusiast community was beginning to grow, and the SARB017 quickly became a favorite of collectors worldwide. 

One of the most notable features of the SARB017 is its stunning sunburst emerald green dial. This striking color, complemented by gold-plated Arabic numerals and dagger-shaped hour markers, gave the watch a distinct and refined look that set it apart from other models. 

The gold accents paired beautifully with the brown alligator-textured leather strap, creating a watch that was both rugged and elegant. The dial also features elegant cathedral-style hands and a date window at 3 o’clock. 

Another notable feature of the SARB017 was its internal rotating compass bezel. This unique feature, combined with the watch’s legible dial and durable 38mm stainless steel case, made it a versatile piece that could easily transition from outdoor adventures to more formal settings. 

The rotating bezel, which could be adjusted with a second crown at 4 o’clock, gave the watch a functional yet subtle flair, tucking neatly into the design without overwhelming it.

The design also boasted the brand’s in-house Caliber 6R15 mechanical movement, which offered an impressive 23 jewels and a 50-hour power reserve. 

Although the SARB017 was initially a Japan Domestic Model (JDM) release, making it difficult to find outside Japan, its allure only grew as word spread.

The SARB017 became a sought-after “forbidden fruit” for collectors around the world. Its limited availability, combined with its stunning design and functionality, created a sense of exclusivity that fuelled its growing demand.

The Seiko SPB121

For the newer Seiko Alpinist SPB121, I almost think of this novelty as a love letter to the SARB017. It’s clearly designed with the same core appeal but updated with a few thoughtful tweaks.

Seiko recognized the SARB017’s massive fanbase and how coveted it became after its discontinuation, so they essentially took everything collectors loved about the Alpinist and gave it a modern refresh. 

The green sunburst dial is back, just as striking as before, along with the signature gold-plated hour markers and hands that give the watch its distinct character. The rotating internal bezel also makes a return, as does the classic brown leather strap, making the SPB121 feel like an evolution of the iconic SARB017.

While the design closely mirrors its predecessor, there are some key changes that make the SPB121 a little different. For one, the case has grown ever so slightly, from 38mm to 39.5mm, making it feel a bit more substantial on the wrist. 

The thickness has also increased from 12mm to 13.2mm, adding a more solid presence, which further adds to the Alpinist’s rugged elegance.

Another noticeable upgrade is the exhibition case back, giving owners a clear view of the new movement inside Seiko’s in-house Calibre 6R35. This movement offers a substantial boost in power reserve, now clocking in at 70 hours compared to the 6R15’s 50-hour reserve. 

There are also some other subtle tweaks on the dial, like the slightly redesigned dial text and the reintroduction of the cyclops date magnifier. The Prospex “X” logo replaces the previous Diashock branding to mark the model’s new home in Seiko’s dive watch line. 

Despite these upgrades, the SPB121 maintains the soul of the SARB017, offering collectors the same style and functionality that made the original such a hit. Of course, these enhancements come with a slightly higher price tag. The newest model retails for around $725 new, compared to the $700 launch price of the SARB017. 

However, considering that the SARB017 now regularly fetches upwards of $1,000 on the second-hand market, the SPB121 represents a more accessible way to get your hands on a modern Alpinist, while still enjoying all the nostalgic charm of the original.

Seiko SARB017 vs SPB121 – How to Choose 

When deciding between the Seiko SARB017 and the Seiko SPB121, there are a few important factors to consider that will help you determine which model suits you best. Both watches share a common heritage, with the SPB121 being a direct successor to the SARB017, but there are enough differences to make each model unique, and appealing to different types of collectors. 

The Case Size and Fit 

One of the first things you’ll notice when comparing the two watches is their size. The Seiko SARB017 comes with a 38mm case diameter, while the SPB121 is slightly larger at 39.5mm. 

For those with smaller wrists, or those who simply prefer a more compact watch, the SARB017’s 38mm case might be the better fit. It’s a classic size that maintains the Alpinist’s rugged yet elegant look without feeling too bulky. Additionally, the SARB017’s slimmer 12mm thickness makes it comfortable and unobtrusive on the wrist. 

On the other hand, if you have larger wrists or prefer a more substantial watch, the SPB121 might be a better choice. The 39.5mm case diameter, coupled with the slightly increased thickness of 13.2mm, gives the SPB121 a more robust presence. The larger case size also makes the SPB121 a bit more modern in feel, while still retaining the Alpinist’s charm. 

Movement and Power Reserve 

Another significant difference between these two watches is their movements. The SARB017 uses Seiko’s 6R15 automatic movement, which has been a reliable and well-loved workhorse in the world of affordable mechanical watches. 

However, the movement offers a power reserve of 50 hours, which is great for daily wear but might fall short if you’re someone who tends to rotate watches over the weekend and leave one off for a few days at a time. 

The SPB121, on the other hand, is powered by the newer Seiko 6R35 movement. This movement offers a notable improvement with a 70-hour power reserve, meaning that it can last through an entire weekend without needing to be wound. 

For those who like to take a break from wearing their watch on the weekends and don’t want to worry about winding it up again, this increased power reserve is a clear advantage. Plus, the SPB121’s 6R35 movement is slightly more refined and updated compared to the 6R15, making it an attractive choice for those seeking a more modern technical upgrade. 

Additionally, the SPB121 comes with an exhibition case back, which allows you to admire the movement in all its mechanical glory. This is a welcome touch for many watch wearers who appreciate seeing the inner workings of their timepieces. 

The SARB017, however, keeps things more classic with a solid stainless steel case back that features the Alpinist logo. While it may not have the same “show-off” quality as the SPB121, the SARB017’s case back is part of its vintage charm and speaks to the history and heritage of the model. 

Dial Design 

When it comes to the dial, the SPB121 stays remarkably true to the SARB017’s iconic green sunburst dial. The color remains the same, with the gold-plated hour markers and hands that give the watch its distinct character. 

However, there are some refinements in the SPB121, including a cleaner dial with less text and the reintroduction of the cyclops date magnifier at 3 o’clock, which gives the dial a slightly more contemporary look. 

The SARB017, on the other hand, has the original Alpinist logo and a slightly more vintage feel with its classic design and cluttered dial text.

Much of this is down to the lettering detailing its Diashock movement. It might not be an important thing to denote for some of you, but it does give it that nostalgic allure that the SPB121, despite its many strengths, can’t quite replicate. 

Which One Is Right for You? 

If you’re after a more modern take on the classic Alpinist, the SPB121 is likely the better choice. With its larger case, upgraded movement, exhibition case back, and improved power reserve, it offers a more contemporary experience without straying too far from the original design that made the SARB017 so beloved. 

However, if you’re someone who appreciates the vintage feel and charm of the original Alpinist, the SARB017 is going to appeal more. It’s more compact, offers a classic design, and carries with it the weight of Seiko’s rich history. 

If you already own the SARB017, you might also be asking if upgrading to the SPB121 is worth it. For myself, and I’m sure many others, too, the answer is no.  While the SPB121 does bring some meaningful improvements, the SARB017 still offers incredible value and remains a classic in its own right.

Conclusion

In the end, choosing between the Seiko SARB017 and the SPB121 comes down to your personal preferences.

If you’re after a more substantial, modern watch with a longer power reserve, a slightly larger case, and a refined design, the SPB121 is the way to go. However, if you’re drawn to Seiko’s rich history, a more compact size, and vintage-inspired look, the SARB017 will be your favorite. 

Honestly, though, you can’t go wrong with either model. Both watches offer outstanding storytelling, impressive technology, and exceptional design at a great price.

So whether you leave here to shop a pre-owned SARB017 on the second-hand market or go for a brand-new SPB121 from your local authorized Seiko retailer like Exquisite Timepieces, I promise you won’t be disappointed with your choice.

We live in the era of the smart watch, during which, many of us enthusiasts have illustrated our displeasure for timekeeping instruments that resemble a phone on our wrists; god forbid it spies on us too, we know it probably does. For those who want a technologically advanced, well engineered, and contemporary watch; that still looks like a watch, feels like a watch, and wears like a watch; the Astron may be the chosen one.

The Astron is known for its accuracy and practicality, it forged Seiko as a technological leader by changing the way time could be measured and comprehensively rewriting the limits of what was once perceived “highly accurate or reliable timekeeping”.

Today, the Astron is still a tribute to the progressive spirit of the Seiko brand. It is evident to any aficionado that the collection carries with it a strong identity of Seiko and Japanese ingenuity. It is a fusion of cutting edge technology and Avantgarde design, finished by hand with Zaratsu polishing techniques; which is by far its most overlooked characteristic.

About the Seiko Astron

The Seiko Astron is a contemporary lineup and a champion of Quartz, and now Solar timekeeping technology, to become the ultimate middle ground between Mechanical and Smart watches. 

Similar to mechanical watches, the Astron tells the time via an analogue and a familiar watch-like layout, using hands and indices, however, it does away with the romance of internal mechanics and replaces it with advanced Solar GPS technology that is accurate, affordable, reliable, and convenient.

Released in 1969 as the first quartz timepiece ever, the Astron lineup has consistently been a pillar of innovation within the timekeeping industry. It has now evolved into a Solar powered GPS equipped timepiece; which means it is powered by light and never needs a battery, nor to be wound; and sets its time by itself, keeping perfect time no matter where you are. 

The massive amount of timekeeping features available in the Astron collection, such as solar power, satellite calibrated time, dual time zones, 1/20th second/12 hour chronograph, day-date function, power reserve indicator, AM/PM indicator, world time bezel, 60 minute bezel, and programed pushers, allow it to be the closest rival to smart watch features. 

History of Seiko Astron Watches

The first Astron was introduced to the world in 1969 as the very first Quartz timepiece, it was truly revolutionary, and its impact on the timekeeping industry is unprecedented. It caused what is known to be the “Quartz crisis”, a period that heavily impacted all watchmakers, as Quartz timepieces grew hugely in demand due to its superiority to mechanical timepieces in terms of cost, accuracy, and reliability. The widespread of Quartz was also aided by the subsequent opening of patents of this technology to the world.

In 2012 Seiko took Astron to its second phase, with the release of the world’s first GPS Solar watch, allowing for its timepieces to be charged by light and accurately displaying/calculating the accurate time from anywhere in the world through the catching of wave signals transmitted by GPS satellites; this technology was also revolutionary, contributing to accurate timekeeping and changing or making convenient how time can be set by its user. 

Seiko Astron: In-Depth Review

The Astron collection currently has as many as six different models, offered with varying features/movements, case materials, dial colors, and special editions.

Case Sizes & Materials

It is no surprise that the Astron lineup is offered in sizes that are considered modern and versatile. A lot of innovation has been dedicated to making Astron Calibers and therefore, its cases as compact as possible for the best wearing experience.

The smallest Astron has a 39mm diameter and the largest has a 43mm diameter. The average case diameter of the collection falls between 42mm and 43mm, this is fairly reasonable for a feature packed timepiece. A huge easter egg that contributes to the elegance design of an Astron in comparison with its automatic contemporaries in the industry, are its considerably thin cases, which measure as thin as 11mm and a maximum of 13.4mm; averaging a thickness of only 12.2mm.

The cases of the Astron are made of modern materials such as stainless steel and titanium, they come with super hard coating for extra scratch resistance. There is also a stainless steel model with a gold super hard coating, as well as many special edition models  with titanium cases and a black super hard coatings. All cases are finished to a high level with polished and hair-line finished surfaces.

Bezels

A vast amount of attention has been invested into making unique bezels as an extension of the Astron’s Avantgarde design, feature set, and also for added robustness. The case metal matched plain bezels have sloping or geometric designs in order to be suitable to the watch design. When features such as a World Time or 60-minute indications are used, the bezels are made of ceramic, allowing for contrasting indications, tactility, and scratch resistance.

Dials

The Astron dials emanate elegance and sophistication. This is done with a balance of the right colors, textures, finishings, and components. The trending color-ways to be discovered in the lineup are grey blue, gradient purple, gradient midnight blue, ice blue, and aqua blue. The many textures available that give visual depth, are square patterns, straight lines (emanating from its center), star patterns, stepped with either a gradient pattern or a straight line pattern, and sunburst. 

Hands and indices feature polished surfaces for quality, contrast, and easy readability. Prominent indexes are inherited in all Astrons to evoke the data of satellites being drawn into the watch; and other features such as contrasting intricate subdials, a sapphire crystal rehaut ring, a framed and color matched date window, and an applied brand logo; together, handsomely tie up the thoughtful dial designs of the Astron’s.

Movements

The Astron is recognized for its pioneering movement technology. Following its first revolution of the watch industry with quartz technology, it is now well into its second revolution; initiated by the introduction of GPS Solar movements in 2012. The modern-day GPS Solar movements in all Astron’s have evolved to become considerably smaller than the initial/launch specifications, allowing for elegantly proportioned cases. The newer movements also have a much faster GPS receiver, able to pick up a signal in as little as 3 seconds, incredibly fast and even more convenient for its users.

All current Astron Movements are GPS Solar technology movements with the additional automatically calibrating functions that allow it to work seamlessly in everyday use. Another function that is fundamental to the range is a Perpetual Calendar. The 5X83 is the flagship movement equipped with a 12 Hour Chronograph Function, “that is unique to the model”; it also has as a World Time function, Dual Time function, Day & Date Display, Power Reserve indicator, Time Transfer function, Daylight Savings Time, Power Saving function, and a function to Prevent GPS Signal (In Flight Mode). The 5X53 is second in the tier list with all the same features, but without the 12 Hour Chronograph. The 3X62 follows, lacking a Dual Time function, Time Transfer function, Daylight Savings Time function, and has a Date only display. Finally, the 3X22 that serves as the most basic movement in the collection is similar in features to the 3X62, yet lacks a satellite acquisition status display function that is standard in all the other models.

Strap Options

Most current Astron Models are integrated bracelet watches in either Stainless Steel or Titanium, (polished and coated or color-coated) made to match their cases . They come in two variations with a H-link style or traditional 3 links. They are highly intricate in design, as an integrated bracelet watch needs to have its case and bracelet appear as a single unit;  therefore sharing the complex angularity of their cases. They are also finished to a high standard, with hairline finished surfaces and polished edges in order to draw attention to its lines. Leather straps also feature, as seen on the SSJ012 and SSJO19.

Most Popular Seiko Astron Models

Here we will discuss the most popular Astron models. The modern Astron collection is defined by two functions; they are solar powered with a full power reserve of 6 months; and they can automatically adjust to the correct time zone for your location by connecting to GPS satellites, therefore, they are World Timer’s; making for amazing travelers timepieces. The entire range is also water resistant to 100 meters and has an accuracy of plus or minus 15 seconds a month “without a GPS signal”. 

Seiko Astron Titanium Solar GPS White Dial Limited Edition SSJ019

The SSJO19 is an Anniversary 800 piece limited edition to commemorate 110 years of Seiko watchmaking excellence. It comes with a special dial and a special integrated two-tone grey/black leather strap. It is equipped with the 3X62 movement, giving it key features like a Perpetual Calendar, Power Reserve Indicator, and a Date Display. 

It has an industrial looking lightweight titanium case, designed as an integrated unit with its strap, and has a striking octagonal bezel. Its surfaces are hairline finished with Zaratsu polished edges, bringing out a chiseled muscular appearance. The special gloss white dial is a tasteful choice and complements its raised indices; it is contrasted by chemically blued details seen on the sub-dial and seconds hand; and minor red details.

Seiko Astron Resident Evil Death Island Collaboration Limited Editions SSH129

The SSH129 is a serious timepiece and a special collaboration edition with Japanese horror game, Resident Evil, for its Death Island CG Animated Feature. It is limited to 600 pieces and has a stealth black coating on its lightweight titanium case and bracelet, masterfully drawing inspiration from the uniform and character of the main protagonist, Chris, who is seen wearing the timepiece in the animation film.

The timepiece is equipped with a 5X53 movement, giving it many features such as a Dual Time function, Perpetual Calendar with Day/Date Displays and AM/PM Scale, Power Reserve Indicator, and a Time Transfer function; all functions are smartly laid out in its dial which has a rugged finish, contrasted by white indications, and illuminated with LumiBrite. An octagonal GMT Bezel complements its form and functionality.

Seiko Astron GPS Solar SSJ003

The  Astron SSJ003 is an extremely versatile timepiece. It has a simple 3-hand and date only dial configuration, yet, boasts Solar and GPS functionality that defines the range. It is packaged in a stainless steel hard coated case and bracelet, with a gorgeous blue plain ceramic bezel. 

The case is inspired by the original Astron, with a cushion shape, allowing it to show off large amounts of Zaratsu polishing on its lugs. Definition is found with hairline finishing on its inner secondary surface, as well as on the sides of its case. Its 3-link bracelet surface is hairline finished with Zaratsu polishing on its sides. This makes for a durable balance of finishing for daily wearability, while being elegant, yet leaning towards a sporty aesthetic. To match its bezel, it is fitted with a fetching blue dial with raised indexes and a color matched date window with a frame.

Seiko Astron GPS Solar Titanium White Dial Limited Edition SSH135

The SSH135 is a limited edition of 1,200 pieces, featuring a silver and blue colorway. It is a feature packed timepiece, equipped with the 5X53 movement, allowing it to measure and display a Dual Time function, Perpetual Calendar with Day/Date Displays and AM/PM Scale, Power Reserve Indicator, and a Time Transfer function. 

It has a lightweight titanium case finished to a high level, is angular in shape, and designed to be integrated to its bracelet that receives similar treatment in design and finishing; it is also equipped with a complementary two tone rubber strap. The special edition timepiece has an icy aesthetic, lavished with a striking silver pressed pattern dial, with blue accents; and a matching blue ceramic GMT bezel. 

Seiko Astron Rose Gold SSJ014

The SSJO14 is a two-tone timepiece that shows the diversity on offer in the Astron range, as well as proving the versatility of its designs. It is equipped with a 3X62 GPS Solar movement, giving it features like a Perpetual Calendar/Date Display, and a Power Reserve Indicator. 

It comes packaged in a lightweight titanium case and bracelet that are integrated in design, and complement each other with angular lines and a mix of hairline finished and high polished surfaces. Its bezel is octagonal and features a rose gold coating that is also seen on its crown and pushers. It receives a highly contemporary grey square textured dial, contrasted by rose gold indices, date window, and hands. The sum of its parts creates a stunning two-tone, industrial looking timepiece, fit for the modern technology it packs underneath.

Should You Buy A Seiko Astron?

The Astron is a truly contemporary timepiece, adopting modern technology that is highly impressive and convenient, as well as incorporating designs that are industrial, versatile, and elegant; with high levels of craftsmanship and made with modern materials. What stands out most about the Astron is that its technology is very travel friendly. In summary, it is no surprise that Seiko has claimed that the Astron has been developed for international business people traveling around the world, and more recently, aimed the collection at next generation leaders. If you relate to how that sounds, then you should definitely consider an Astron.

Seiko Astron Pricing & Availability

The Seiko Astron range can be found at an official authorized distributor of the watchmaker, this is the most reliable choice for brand new and even pre-owned timepieces, as they will have reliable expertise to inform you of your potential purchase, have your desired timepiece in stock, and offer a valid after-sales warranty. Exquisite Timepieces is an authorized distributor of the Astron range, you can explore and purchase the range on our website, or visit us at our boutique in Naples, Florida, to discover the range in person. 

The entry level Astron model starts at $1,900, and the highest specification limited edition model will cost up to $3,900. The average price of a brand new Astron will be around $2,400. A nice pre-owned modern Astron will save you up to approximately 30%-40% off its original retail price, depending on condition, warranty, and factors such as the availability of original packaging and receipts.

Conclusion

The Astron is an incredible collection that has had a profound impact on horology, its technology is the ultimate parallel to high mechanical watchmaking. It is a wonderfully thorough range of watches, made with good materials, with legendary hand finishing, possessing absolutely groundbreaking movement technology, and packaged as an Avantgarde design that is hard to resist. The story and existence of the Astron gives true meaning to the reverence Seiko has within the watchmaking community.

Ancient bamboo canopies, moss-covered stones, and emerald lake waters. It’s natural images like this that come to mind when I look at the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch. And it seems that’s what Grand Seiko intended when they created this model, with its rich green dial inspired by “rikka”, a season in Japan’s 24 “sekki”, which marks the end of spring and the beginning of summer.

First impressions suggest this is a watch that would be beautiful for evening occasions. I can just picture the deep green dial and the beautifully finished stainless steel case slipping conspicuously under a shirt cuff, asking for appreciation without demanding it. 

Its elegance quietly commands attention, offering a statement that is both subtle and sophisticated, perfect for those who recognize true artistry in timepieces. But with that said, how did it fare in the real world, living on my wrist for the last week?

History of the Grand Seiko 24 Sekki Collection

Grand Seiko has a reputation for capturing the beauty of Japan’s nature through its designs. It’s not a new philosophy for the watchmaker by any means, and yet it’s certainly not one anyone seems bored of yet. 

In 2019, the luxury watch brand launched its 24 Sekki Collection, a series of watches inspired by how Japanese individuals look at the year. Instead of just naming four seasons, they have 24 “sekki”, or little moments that capture all the subtle changes in nature throughout the year.

They don’t just say spring, summer, fall, and winter; they break it down even further, naming parts of the year, such as when the first flowers bloom or when the first leaves from trees fall to the ground. 

It’s a rather poetic way of keeping track of the seasons if you ask me. As you’ve probably guessed, each watch in the Grand Seiko 24 Sekki collection reflects one of these moments. One of my personal favorites is the “Shunbun” SBGA413 which has a beautiful pastel pink textured dial inspired by the spring equinox when Japan’s cherry blossom trees start to bloom. The “Taisetsu” SBGA415 is another model worth mentioning, bringing to life the colors and textures of the deep snows of winter.

What’s so special about this collection is that regardless of your nationality, you feel like you are wearing a piece of art that connects you to Japan’s nature. The watch I have had the pleasure of getting hands-on with this week, the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch, is a perfect example, this time bringing to life a very specific moment at the beginning of summer.

A Streamline Steel Case

It’s hard with a watch like this not to get distracted by the dial, but I’ll get onto that shortly. Instead, I want to start with the case because it’s equally impressive. Beautifully contoured, the case of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 is inspired by the iconic 1967 62GS model from Grand Seiko, the brand’s first automatic timepiece. It’s part of the Heritage collection for that reason, bringing together this history with an undeniably modern presence.

But make no mistake, this isn’t just any sports watch case. The curves and edges are breathtaking, somehow managing to be sharp yet flowing. The combination of finishing plays with this unusual juxtaposition creates a striking visual experience. I’m not sure I’ll ever get bored of Grand Seiko’s standout Zaratsu polishing, which in this case, is applied to the lugs and sides. 

It’s the same level of finishing you’d find in top-tier Swiss watches, often referred to as “black polish”. Usually, this kind of finishing is for movement components like bridges and screws, so seeing it on a watch case is truly exceptional, especially since the process isn’t quick or easy. 

In fact, every polished component requires a single skilled artisan to hold the surface against a spinning tin place. It’s time-consuming, but the result is an outstanding mirror-like finish. The satin finish on the case sides complements the Zaratsu polish perfectly.

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch measures to 40mm in diameter, with a 47mm lug-to-lug distance and a thickness of 12.9mm. It’s a great set of dimensions for most wrist sizes, especially the height, which allows it to still wear nicely under tight sleeves. The dial is protected by a lovely box-shaped sapphire crystal, giving the watch a touch of vintage appeal. 

Flat sapphire is much cheaper for brands to use, so when you find cambered sapphire like this, it definitely adds to the watch’s luxury feel—both in value and look. The case back is also made of sapphire crystal, so you can see part of the 9S85 movement inside. I say “part of” because the Grand Seiko lion crest partially obscures the view, which is a bit of a shame.

An Early Summer-Inspired Dial

The dial of the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch is a stunning deep green, designed to replicate the intricate texture of the foliage. Like most Grand Seiko dials, it’s difficult to fully appreciate the detail in photos or videos—I really recommend seeing models like this in person so you can fully grasp that level of attention to detail involved. 

The best way I can describe the color is as British Racing Green, but with a slightly metallic sheen that reflects light in a way that subtly shifts the hue depending on the angle. The texture is subtle, too. 

Depending on how the light hits it, the dial can appear completely smooth at times, while at other moments, it reveals an intricate, raised pattern that reminds me of the rough surface of early summer leaves.

Grand Seiko has cleverly incorporated a sloped minutes track around the edge of the dial, with the minutes printed in white on a matching dark green backdrop. This makes it easy to read the time at a glance. The hour markers and hands are crafted from yellow gold, which contrasts beautifully with the green dial. There’s something special about the combination of yellow gold, and green, especially when paired with a steel case. The warmth of the gold feels reminiscent of sunrise or sunset, adding to the dial’s early summer inspiration.

The hardware on the dial, including the GS logo at 12 o’clock and the date window frame at 3 o’clock, is also finished in yellow gold, ensuring a cohesive look. Everything on this dial is meticulously finished by hand using diamond-tipped milling tools and then carefully placed by hand. The only parts printed onto the dial’s surface are the white printed “Grand Seiko” logo at 12 o’clock and the lettering in a deep yellow at 6 o’clock, confirming the automatic hi-beat movement inside.

A Hi-Beat Movement

Housed inside the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch is the Japanese watchmaker’s signature 9S85 automatic winding caliber. It’s an in-house movement made exclusively in Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi Watch Studio in Iwate Prefecture with an insanely impressive frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour. 

That’s 10 beats per second, which is why the seconds hand sweeps so smoothly across the dial. It’s also the same rate of frequency of the Zenith El Primero, another beautiful hi-beat watch but one that’s often three to four thousand dollars more expensive.

The Caliber 9285 is adjusted to six positions to ensure a high level of accuracy – that’s one more than the chronometer standard of 5. It boasts an accuracy rating of -3 to +5, which again beats other chronometers rated to -4 to +6 seconds per day. It also runs off 37 jewels and promises a power reserve of 55 hours. As mentioned, when off the wrist, you can admire the beautifully decorated movement through the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch’s case back.

A Hand-Finished Bracelet

The Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 arrives on a solid three-row link stainless steel bracelet to match its case. It has solid end links and a wonderful alternating link alignment for a handsome finish. The finishing of the metal beautifully falls in line with the case, boasting hand-finished surfaces that are predominantly satinized with some polishing on each end of the middle link and on the outer links’ flanks.

There’s a single-fold deployment clasp finished just as beautifully as the rest of the bracelet. It’s polished and satin-finished and is detailed with the Grand Seiko logo in relief. It’s a twin trigger release system, so you can’t accidentally open it easily. 

Sadly, there are no micro adjustments incorporated into the bracelet (I’m still patiently waiting for Grand Seiko to start adding a micro-adjustment system into their bracelets), but instead, there are half links, so finding a comfortable fit isn’t too difficult.

The metal bracelet has a 21mm lug width which is a little awkward of a size, especially if you want to swap the strap out for something else. But it has drilled lugs, so when you are able to source a 21mm strap, swapping it around is a breeze.

On-Wrist Experience

If it were up to me, I would make this my go-to dress watch. It pairs beautifully with formal attire and slips perfectly under a shirt cuff. But at the same time, I have to remind myself not to let its refined appearance fool me; this watch is built to be tough since it’s a sports watch, after all. 

With its solid steel bracelet and 100-meter water resistance, it’s not something you need to baby. It would make an equally fantastic and undeniably handsome daily beater that can withstand the wear and tear of an average day.

The dimensions are spot on, with a 40mm diameter and a 47mm lug-to-lug distance, making it comfortable even on wrists as small as five-and-a-half inches. If your wrist is slightly smaller, you can easily swap out the bracelet for a leather strap using the watch’s strap-changing features. This not only makes it more wearable but also adds a touch of versatility. 

The solid end links add an extra 3mm to the lug-to-lug distance, giving it a bit more presence on larger wrists, especially those over 7.5 inches. While its sporty nature and thickness might not make it the quintessential dress watch for some of you, I believe it can still be worn in dressier settings with ease.

Price & Availability

It still amazes me how Grand Seiko can produce a watch with such high levels of finishing and movement manufacture for less than $7,000. To put it into perspective, you’re getting an in-house hi-beat movement, a beautifully hand-finished stainless steel case, a full metal bracelet, and a super intricate, textured dial for just $6,300 with the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 watch. And that’s if you buy it brand new at retail price. If you’re lucky, you might be able to find it on the second-hand market for a few thousand dollars cheaper.

Conclusion

After a week on my wrist, I’ve come to the quick and confident conclusion that the Grand Seiko Heritage “Rikka” SBGH271 is a stunning watch that truly justifies its price tag and earns its place in even the most avid watch collectors’ boxes. 

The finishing of the case is exceptional, a masterpiece of craftsmanship that I could admire for hours, and when with the mesmerizing green dial, which shifts in color and texture with every tilt of the wrist, this watch is an exquisite—and admittedly distracting—work of art. And now after reviewing this one, I’m eager to see the other models in the Grand Seiko 24 Sekki collection up close.