Seiko Archives - Page 2 of 10 - Exquisite Timepieces
Home / Blog / Seiko / Page 2

 

Category: Seiko

Seiko Marinemaster

Seiko is a familiar brand name to watch enthusiasts and is much loved for its reliability, rich history, and versatility. Buying a Seiko watch means being a part of a community that knows quality when they see it. One of Seiko’s biggest selling points is its seemingly endless catalog of fantastic watches that can impress even the most dedicated critic.

The brand is highly collectible, and owners might start with one of Seiko’s many fantastic and robust dive watches before diving into more of their collections, like their dress and field watches. Seiko’s dive watches, in particular, are held in high regard, with many sporting nicknames affectionately given to them by enthusiastic fans, such as “Samurai” and “Tuna.”

One dive watch line that Seiko offers is the legendary Marinemaster collection. Many watches are a part of this collection, and taking the leap to buy one may be a challenging experience. We’re here today to provide you with a look into the storied history of the legendary dive watches that professional divers trust to help them explore the fierce ocean waters and a guide that highlights some of the many references in the Marinemaster collection.

What is the Seiko Marinemaster?

As the name implies, the Seiko Marinemaster is a watch born to be in the water and survive in the murky and mysterious depths of the ocean. It is a watch that will faithfully serve its purpose with excellent reliability. The Marinemaster line falls under the extensive Prospex collection of Seiko watches.

Prospex, short for “professional specifications,” is Seiko’s answer to the rigorous demands of professional diving and exploration. Many watches under the Prospex line can be considered a Marinemaster. Since the release of the first Marinemaster, Seiko has expanded this line with several different timepieces. However, it is important to note that some are not explicitly labeled as Marinemaster.

Generally, the Marinemaster line consists of watches with very high depth ratings of over 200 meters of water resistance, a crown located at the 4 o’clock position, and is classified under the Prospex range. Following this general rule makes identifying a member of the Marinemaster family a simple and painless process.

Seiko Marinemaster History

The 1960s was a tumultuous era of social upheaval that included major wars and periods of social unrest. In the world of diving, however, the 1960s is when exploration and diving achieved some of its greatest innovations and changes.

Right at the start of the decade, two intrepid explorers named Jacques Piccard and Don Walsh made history as the first people to reach the bottom of the Challenger Deep, the deepest known point in the ocean. They did so on their submersible vessel, the Trieste. This momentous event set the tone for the rest of the decade and made exploring one of the Earth’s final frontiers an exciting adventure for the brave and curious.

During this period, watches were prized as reliable workhorses instead of status symbols. They were expected to perform and keep their wearer safe because diving was a demanding profession. Divers who spend too long underwater risked endangering their life or suffering from physiological conditions like the bends.

There was a great need for accurate timepieces that could survive the oceans with their wearer and accompany them as they descended into the waters below. For the Swiss watchmaking industry, they answered with offerings from respected brands like Rolex, Omega, and Blancpain. On the other side of the world, the Japanese watchmaking industry needed to respond in turn.

Seiko answered that call in 1965 with the extremely robust Seiko 6217-8001/62MAS. This watch is the earliest ancestor of the Marinemaster. The 6217-8001 started the Seiko trend of creating timepieces that would keep divers alive in depths that would make most people shiver thinking about it.

This watch was designed to be functional at up to 150 meters underwater. Although it was only produced for a few years, its importance cannot be understated, as it is Seiko’s first serious professional dive watch and attempt to challenge Swiss watchmakers.

Two years after the 6217-8001, Seiko followed that up with the 6215-7000. The water resistance doubled from 150 meters to a staggering 300 meters. This watch featured the crown at the 4 o’clock position, a feature that continues to be seen in nearly every member of the modern Marinemaster family.

In addition to being an interesting conversation starter, the 4 o’clock crown serves a practical purpose. It provides easier access to the crown instead of the usual 3 o’clock position, especially when diving. In the perilous situations that divers can find themselves in, any advantage or comfort the equipment can offer is much appreciated.

Seiko continued its success with the release of the 6159-7001, which looked extremely similar to its predecessor but featured an interesting hi-beat movement that offered extreme precision and accuracy. In the 1990s, Seiko released the now hard-to-find SBCN005, a quartz-powered titanium watch that is the predecessor of the much more famous SBDX001.

Much later on, in the year 2000, Seiko released the Marinemaster 300 SBDX001 to a delighted Japanese exclusive market. Despite its success in the Japanese market, Seiko was slow to release Marinemasters outside of Japan. However, now that Seiko has released more Marinemaster models into the global market, everyone can get their hands on one of these coveted pieces.

Is the Seiko Marinemaster worth buying?

The Seiko Marinemaster 300 appeals to a wide range of people, ranging from professional divers to casual collectors. Its handsome looks, rich history, practicality, and accuracy are sure to delight anyone who has the chance to see a Marinemaster for themselves.

Undoubtedly, the Marinemaster 300 holds a special place in history as one of Seiko’s best contributions to the world of diving. Collectors will appreciate the historic nature of the watch while casual wearers will enjoy its rugged appearance with a touch of luxury mixed in. This classically designed tool watch fulfills its duties as a professional diving companion and looks good while doing it. The case is expertly finished, and the piece is comfortable to wear.

Marinemasters, at minimum, boast a water resistance of 200 meters, with many having 300 meters. Such watches will be perfect for water activities, ranging from a dip in the pool to coral reef snorkeling. The Marinemaster is also more than prepared for any adventures on land, with a tough stainless steel construction that will last a lifetime.

The time will be pinpoint accurate, with Seiko’s marvelous mechanical movements providing accuracy that matches and exceeds certified chronometers. Finally, Marinemasters feature a highly legible dial that makes telling the time easy with just a glance. The bold markers, generous lume, and large font contribute to this ease.

Every watch has its cons, and the Seiko Marinemaster 300 is no exception. Achieving the behemoth 300 meters of water resistance comes with a cost. The case is thick, with most Marinemasters being around 15 mm thick. Therefore, the watch sits tall on the wrist, which may bother some people who want a more sleek and understated timepiece.

Potential buyers can also consider other lesser known watches at the Marinemaster’s price point. The range varies, but other Swiss-made divers are also available at these prices. Marinemaster buyers will be lovers of Japanese watches, enthusiasts, and anyone looking for a large, rugged, practical watch that can handle any situation. The Marinemaster is a hefty piece, and anyone who is able to put one on their wrist will feel the weight. Wearers will definitely be aware of the watch’s presence.

The Best Seiko Marinemaster References

Many watches are in the Marinemaster line, but this guide will list several references in chronological order. If the word “Marinemaster” is on the watch, it will either be on the face of the watch, the caseback, or the tag that comes with the watch.

Seiko SBCN005

Seiko SBCN005

Also called the Transocean, the SBCN005 is one of the most unique models in the Marinemaster lineup. The watch was released in the 1990s. It looks completely different from later models and does not even use a mechanical movement.

Instead, the SBCN005 was a lightweight, titanium watch powered by the Seiko 7k32 quartz movement. The watch features a gorgeous dark blue dial with streaks of striking yellow accenting various parts of the watch. The watch also had a barometer scale, second time zone, and sapphire crystal lens.

Seiko SBDX001

Seiko SBDX001

The SBDX001 is the watch most people will immediately think of when they hear the word “Marinemaster.” For many enthusiasts, this is the definitive Marinemaster. Released at the turn of the century in 2000, the SBDX001 was a Japanese domestic market (JDM) exclusive watch for many years and was difficult for global audiences to find.

Instead of using a quartz movement, Seiko opted for a robust 8L35 mechanical movement for this watch. The design of this watch echoes back to its early ancestors from the 1960s and has a slick black dial. Measuring at nearly 16 mm thick and 44 mm in diameter, the watch is not subtle. Additionally, the watch features a unidirectional bezel, lumed hands, and a screw-down crown.

Seiko SBDX003 & SBDX005

Seiko released a collection of seven watches in 2000 as a part of their Seiko Historical Collection. The collection featured dive watches, dress watches, quartz watches, and pocket watches. The SBDX003 and SBDX005 are both highly prized collector items.

They were limited edition releases of only 500 SBDX003s and 1,000 SBDX005s. The SBDX003 has gilded yellow indices and golden text on a deep black dial. The SBDX003 also only came on a rubber strap.

The SBDX005 is in the “Tuna” style of Seiko cases, named affectionately by fans because it resembles, appropriately enough, a can of tuna. Both watches did not have the word “Marinemaster” on them, unlike the SBDX001. However, given their extreme water resistance, they certainly are Marinemasters.

Seiko SBBN027

Seiko SBBN027

The SBBN027 is a massive watch housed in a Tuna-style case and features a vibrant yellow bezel that makes the watch stand out. The 2015 release “Yellow Tuna” is a fun addition to the Marinemaster family. The bright colors don’t compromise the build quality of the watch, however.

It is very much a serious dive watch, water resistant to a titanic depth of 1,000 meters. Despite its massive 49 mm case, this piece is not very heavy because of the titanium build. The silicone strap is expertly finished and is flexible and strong. A new SBBN027 is around $2,100.

Seiko SBDX017

Seiko SBDX017

Released in 2015, the SBDX017 is the successor to the SBDX001. They are nearly identical in design and even share the same 8L35 automatic movement, but the SBDX017 features several upgrades over the older model. Notably, the SBDX017 features Diashield coating on the bracelet, which protects the stainless steel from scratches.

The Diashield coating also gives the stainless steel a slightly darker color. The watch features upgraded lume compared to the original and a Seiko Prospex logo etched onto the crown, which is normally unsigned. The SBDX017 was discontinued by Seiko in 2018.

Seiko SBDX021/SLA019

Seiko SBDX021/SLA019

After the SBDX017’s discontinuation, the SBDX021 was the next successor to the Marinemaster name. Instead of the deep black dials that most Marinemasters have, the SBDX021 has a luscious, mossy green dial. The SBDX021 was a limited release of 1,968 pieces, referencing one of Seiko’s most important years for making watches. With an upgraded ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal lens, and reliable 8L35 movement, this watch was a treat for Seiko fans.

Seiko SLA025

Seiko SLA025

Many of Seiko’s releases reference older models, and the SLA025 is no different. The SLA025 was a limited release in 2018, with only 1,500 models available. Vintage-inspired watches are extremely popular, and the SLA025 closely resembles Seiko’s 1968 diver watch with modern upgrades. The SLA025 was so beloved and well-received that it was even named by the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) as the year’s best sports watch.

The GPHG is one of the world’s most prestigious watch organizations that recognizes the year’s best innovations and creations in the watch world. The SLA025 completely updates the movement and features the luxurious 8L55 high-beat movement, a movement that is a variant of a movement used by Seiko’s ultra-luxury line, Grand Seiko.

Seiko SPB077

Seiko SPB077

The intent for these watches is apparent with Seiko’s official full name for them: “Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation.” This 2018 release watch is only a sample of the larger selection from Seiko. Interested buyers can choose from different colors and upgrades, but the watch itself maintains the spirit of Seiko’s dive watches from 1968 and transports it to the modern world. Like many of Seiko’s watches, the SPB077 and a few similar pieces have a nickname: the “Baby Marinemaster.”

The SPB077 features a classic black dial and slimmer dimensions than most other Marinemasters. The case diameter is 44 mm, and the thickness is 12.7 mm. The watch is powered by the 6R15 automatic movement, which is found in many other modern Seikos. As the “baby” in the family, the SPB077 has a respectable water resistance of 200 meters. A new SPB077 can be yours for around $1,050.

Seiko SBDX023/SLA021

Seiko SBDX023/SLA021

This handsome 2019 release from Seiko is one of the latest iterations of the modernized Marinemaster 300. The watch has numerous upgrades that make it even tougher and more resistant to any challenge the ocean can throw at it. Instead of an aluminum bezel, Seiko has opted for an extremely scratch-resistant ceramic bezel.

The bracelet has a flexible diver extension that makes wearing the watch even easier. The build quality is impeccable, and the timepiece is completely sealed shut, thanks to its sturdy monobloc case design. The 8l35 automatic movement powers the watch, another variant of a luxurious Grand Seiko movement. A new Seiko SBDX023/SLA021 is around $3,100.

Seiko SBDC167/SPB299

Seiko SBDC167/SPB299

One of the newest watches on the list, the SBDC167/SPB299, is a Marinemaster with a mesmerizing icy blue dial. This 2022 release is a part of the “Save the Ocean” special editions released by Seiko, commemorating Seiko’s dedication to protecting the world’s oceans.

New watches are constantly added to the “Save the Ocean” line, all of which feature an exciting special edition colorway. It is beautifully sized at 42 mm and is thinner than most other Marinemasters, with a case thickness of 12.5 mm. A new SBDC167/SPB299 is around $1,250.

Conclusion

The Seiko Marinemaster is an extensive collection that embodies Seiko’s dedication to creating excellent Japanese products that are built to last. Buyers will be able to enjoy the watch’s rich history and marvelous engineering. Marinemasters will be a fine addition to any collection and will easily be able to compete with watches much more expensive than it.

The practicality, legibility, accuracy, history, and construction of the Marinemaster makes it a staple in the Seiko catalog, and Marinemasters will continue to be on the wrists of eager wearers for a long time.

Seiko Samurai

With all of the bells and whistles watch enthusiasts have become accustomed to over the years, it’s easy to overlook the fact that some watches really were designed simply as tools. In reality, the beautifully finished cases and in-house movements we all drool over are as superfluous as any grand complication when it comes to actually telling the time.

Thankfully, we are spoiled for choice and free to choose our own adventure when it comes to watch collecting. There is one brand, though, that manages to offer many of these more luxurious features at a price that won’t make you think twice about actually using it as a tool. That brand is Seiko.

When it comes to a product range, you’d be hard-pressed not to find something in almost any category or price range from Seiko. Whether you are looking for an impeccably finished tourbillion in the form of the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force or an everyday beater suitable for any enthusiast in the 5kx line, Seiko has you covered. Despite the wide range of Seiko’s current offerings, their bread and butter is still value-packed dive watches.

There was a time, not that long ago when these affordable dive watches packed even more of a punch. One great example of exactly what Seiko was, and currently still is, capable of producing is the Seiko Samurai. Let’s take a deep dive into this watch and see what makes it so special and such a unique option in the Seiko product range.

History of the Seiko Samurai

The early 2000s represented the peak of value for money for many of Seiko’s dive watches. Their ability to produce high-quality watches at scale (and forget to account for inflation or relative comps) allowed Seiko to be the true king of value around this time.

In 2004, Seiko released a new watch design, one that would continue to provide exceptional value for money, with a unique case shape and robust 7S25 In-House movement. This watch was the SBDA001. A titanium watch featuring a brutalist design with sharp angles that helped to give this watch a unique aesthetic among the Seiko collection.

As you might have guessed, this watch would later become known as the Seiko Samurai. The nickname came to fruition from enthusiasts (we’re the best at naming timepieces) and was based on the shape of the first-generation hands. Their pointed shape shared a resemblance to the ancient swords used by Samurai, albeit straight, as opposed to the traditional curved shape of a Samurai sword.

Although modern examples of this watch feature an updated large arrow handset, the Samurai name continues to represent this model. Some will argue that the case shape still resembles the traditional armor of a Samurai, therefore justifying its nickname, but I am not fully sold on that comparison. Either way, it’s a great nickname and isn’t going anywhere.

About the Seiko Samurai

Given Seiko’s wide range of entry-level professional divers, you’d be excused for not knowing what separates the Samurai from other options in the line-up, such as the Turtle or the Monster. The Seiko Samurai shares many similar features with these models but also has some stark differences that help to differentiate it.

For starters, this watch has a very modern appearance. Gone are the soft curves of the Turtle and 5KX that were influenced by decades of previous models. The Samurai features sharp downward-sloping angles at the lugs and a trapezoidal profile. The watch is accented by a gnarled crown and bezel that help increase grip and add to the modern design aesthetic.

The Seiko Samurai is a big watch, given the larger case diameter of 42-44mm and 3 O’clock crown placement. Because of the unique case shape, the Samurai wears larger than even the 45mm Seiko Turtle. Depending on the model, these watches are made of titanium or stainless steel, feature Seiko’s proprietary Hardlex crystal or Sapphire crystal, and have either ceramic or aluminum bezel inserts.

Regardless of the many options available in the lineup, every Seiko Samurai will be an ISO 6425 certified Dive Watch rated to 200m of water resistance.

Is the Seiko Samurai Worth Buying?

Based on everything we know about the Seiko Samurai, the question of whether you should buy one or not will really come down to you. To be clear, I think that every watch enthusiast should own at least 1 Seiko dive watch. That is not exactly the question, however. Whether or not this is the model line worth buying for you will depend upon a few different criteria.

Wrist Size

First is your wrist size. As mentioned earlier, 44mm for the current model range is a huge watch by today’s standards. The distinct case shape does not allow Seiko to use their usual magic to make a watch wear 3 to 4 millimeters smaller either. You need to have a larger-than-average wrist circumference or really like how a large watch feels and looks to wear this watch regularly.

Budget

The second factor is budget. The standard model Seiko Samurai, SRPB51, retails for roughly $525. That puts this watch in a unique place. It’s more expensive than 5KX of dive-inspired watches but quite a bit lower than watches in the SPB line. If your budget falls right in that $500-$600 range, you can’t do much better.

On the other hand, if you could afford to stretch to the SPB line, there are some very compelling options within that lineup that offer more refinement for your money. If you like to collect watches, rare Limited-Editions, and pseudo-vintage models and don’t mind spending the SPB level $800-$1200, however, the Seiko Samurai can provide something the current SPB line cannot, history and rarity.

The Best Seiko Samurai References

Assuming that your wrist is up to the challenge and that the Seiko Samurai price range coincides with your budget, I feel this watch is worth your hard-earned money. There are many different options that you can look at. Pre-owned earlier generation models, Limited-Editions, standard product models, and even “King Samurai” options can help you narrow down to exactly which watch is right for you. Let’s take a look at 8 examples of Seiko Samurai watches that are absolutely worth your money!

Seiko SBDA001

Seiko SBDA001

It only makes sense to start this list at the very beginning. The SBDA0001 is the original Seiko Samurai. The watch featured a more compact 42mm case size housed in lightweight titanium. As mentioned earlier, the handset on these first-generation models was shaped like a Samurai sword, ultimately leading to their enthusiast-given namesake.

The dial features a charcoal gray color reminiscent of the original dive watch Seiko produced, known as the 62MAS. The gray and black aluminum bezel insert helps modernize the appearance of the otherwise classic dial. These first-generation models were powered by the 7s25 movement, which made hacking and hand-winning impossible for these original models.

The mechanical upgrades to the modern Seiko Samurais are certainly a welcomed addition, but there is so much that Seiko got right with these original models. The slightly smaller 42mm case housed in titanium would send shockwaves amongst the Seiko enthusiast community if reintroduced today.

Although bordering on vintage these days, you can still find these models pre-owned for roughly $800-$1000. There is a significant premium for this watch over its original MSRP, but being the first of an iconic model still in production will have that effect.

Seiko SNM021

Seiko SNM021

Another watch from the first generation, the SNM021, known as the Orange “Ninja” Samurai, gives a unique perspective on this already distinct watch. One main change from the standard production is that this case is constructed from stainless steel.

I am not in love with that decision, but it does help to differentiate it from the standard production model. In addition, the standard black and gray color combo is replaced by a vivid orange dial and gray bezel with red accents. With this watch being an international-only release, pre-owned examples are quite hard to come by. When they do pop up, you can expect to pay roughly $800-$1200, depending on the condition.

The following 4 examples come from the second generation of Seiko Samurai models introduced in 2017. These models benefit from an upgraded movement in the 4R35, allowing for hacking and hand-winding. In addition to this change, these models’ cases have been bumped up to 43.8mm and are all made of stainless steel. The Sword-style handset has also been “upgraded” to the large arrow-style hand many associate with the Seiko Monster.

Seiko Prospex SRPB51

Seiko Prospex SRPB51

The SRPB51 is the standard issue black waffle dial. This unique dial texture helps to give this watch additional visual interest while remaining very neutral. The gray and black aluminum bezel insert from the SBDA001 remains largely untouched and compliments this watch nicely.

The Seconds hand features a red tip, which helps break up the monochromatic color scheme on the dial and bezel. The SRPB51 is still readily available at many retailers at an MSRP of $525. Given that this watch has been around for a few years, there is an opportunity to save even more if you are willing to take a chance on the preowned market.

Seiko Prospex SRPB09

Seiko Prospex SRPB09

One of the most popular models to come out of the second generation of Seiko Samurais is that of the SRPB09, known as the Blue Lagoon. The deep blue sunray dial with accenting light and darker blue bezel are the highlights of this watch and share responsibility for the affectionate nickname of the Blue Lagoon.

The dial and handset also feature bright yellow pops, a color combination you don’t often see. This 6000-piece Limited Edition watch is no longer available at MSRP but can still be found on the grey market for $800-$1200.

Seiko Prospex SRPD13

The “Zimbe” edition of Seiko watches are often some of the most sought-after and collectible Limited Editions available. One of their more reserved variations comes in the form of the 1300-piece Limited Edition SRPD13. This watch features a very similar dial and handset to what can be found on the SPB143, with well-placed accents of red.

The seconds-hand is entirely red, while the bezel consists of both red and gray to compliment the aesthetic. The more subtle handset and pops of color make this watch my personal favorite on the entire list. With the smaller production size, this watch will be a little bit harder to source. If you are patient, however, pricing should be similar to the Blue Lagoon at $800-$1200.

Seiko Prospex SRPB99 PADI

Seiko Prospex SRPB99 PADI

Another common collaboration amongst Seiko dive watches is with PADI, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. The SRPB99 PADI Special Edition draws inspiration from several other iconic watches while creating a truly unique Seiko Samurai.

The watch features a black wave dial reminiscent of the 90’s Omega Seamaster and a Pepsi bezel colorway. Combine these with the PADI logo on the dial, and it is very clear that this watch knows its audience. The PADI Special Edition watch represents a great value coming in at roughly $500 to $600.

The last two entries to this list are part of the third and latest generation of Seiko Samurai watches. These have become known as the “King Samurai” as they feature some elevated specifications across the board. These new models now feature ceramic bezel inserts as well as sapphire crystals with a “universally loved” date cyclops.

Seiko Prospex SRPE37

Seiko Prospex SRPE37

One of the most unique dial options available for a Seiko dive watch is a white dial. Combine this with a unique texture, like the waffle pattern, and you have something sure to stand out from the black and blue colorways crowd. The SRPE37 gives us exactly this colorway and is a call back to some of the most sought-after versions of their earliest models.

With this watch still being a standard version of a timepiece still in production, there are several avenues for acquiring this timepiece. Coming in at an MSRP of $595, this watch offers tremendous value considering the elevated specification that you see with this third generation. If you are willing to let someone else put the first few scratches on it, this watch it can be picked up for even less.

Seiko Prospex SRPH97

Seiko Prospex SRPH97

The final watch on our list today is a recently released 8000-piece Limited Edition SRPH97. This watch features a blackened stainless steel case and a black ceramic bezel. Complimenting this blacked-out aesthetic is a minty green-colored lume for the hands, indices, and bezel pip.

The color combination offers a unique look on a blacked-out watch and works very well together. There is a slight price premium for this edition with an MSRP of $675, but given the unique look of this timepiece, the price seems completely justified.

Final Thoughts

Given that the Seiko Samurai is one of Seiko’s newest iconic model lines, it’s surprising how many models exist and how much history there is. Admittedly, it’s not a model I have much experience with, given my slender chicken wrists. I really appreciate what Seiko did and has continued to do with this model.

With almost every watch manufacturer peering into the past when designing their dive watches, Seiko is creating this watch for the present. They have several other models that can help scratch the vintage-inspired itch, but this watch makes a choice to fit the modern aesthetic.

Where I would typically beg for a 38-40mm version of a watch I like but is too big for me, I am going to choose to withhold that request. This watch should continue to speak to people with modern tastes rather than try to please everyone.

The beauty of Seiko is that no matter what you like, there is a watch for you. It may not be the perfect watch, but it can be perfect for you. The Seiko Samurai isn’t the one for me, but it may be exactly what you’re looking for!

Happy watch hunting!

Seiko vs Citizen

When we talk of luxurious watch brands, Europe and, in particular, Switzerland immediately comes to mind as the nerve centers of luxury and exquisite timepieces. Did you know that Asia also produces luxurious and stylish watches?

In the 1970s, Asia started making waves in the watch industry due to Switzerland’s quartz crisis. The increase of battery-powered quartz watches in the 170s, and 1980s dramatically changed the watchmaking industry.

The situation kicked off with Astron, the first-ever quartz watch by Seiko, in December 1969. The trick was to replace the watch’s mechanical movements with quartz movements and replace the analog display with a digital one. Quartz is more accurate and more affordable.

The quartz watches became popular and more widely accepted. In the next two decades, two Japanese watch brands gained a more significant chunk of the watch market, namely Seiko and Citizen. Most consider these two brands twins as it’s difficult to tell their differences.

The two brands have numerous similarities beyond their country of origin, homology, structure, brand prestige, recognition, and resale value. We shall discuss some of these differences in this article. If you find it hard to choose between the two, this article will make it easier for you.

Seiko vs. Citizen: Brief History of Seiko

This distinctive brand’s history dates back to humble beginnings in 1881 21-year old Kintori Hattori opened a jewelry store called K. Hattori, located in Ginza Neighborhood, Tokyo. After eleven years’ experience in buying, selling, and repairing clocks and pocket watches, Hattori started thinking of becoming a watch manufacturer.

In 1892, he opened a factory that produced elegant and outstanding luxury wall clocks under the brand name, Seikosha, a Japanese word meaning house of exquisite artistry. This endeavor made by Hattori played a significant role in defining the future of the Seikosha watch brand. In 1895, the Seikosha brand built its first pocket watch, the Seikosha timekeeper.

At the beginning of the 20th century, the brand saw a rise in the demand for wristwatches. It took the bold step of coming up with an elegant wristwatch with a 29.6 mm silver case and a porcelain enamel dial known as the Seikosha Laurel.

In 1923, the Kanto earthquake hit Japan and devastated many buildings, including Seikosha’s factory and the timepieces in stock. Seikosha put their operations on hold, but Hattori quickly rebuilt the factory.

A year later, they came up with a new wristwatch, the first to feature the name Seiko on its dial and the first watch that marked the beginning of the Seiko Brand. Kintore Hattori passed away in 1934, leaving behind his eldest son Ginza to take over the company and run its operation.

After the ups and downs of World War II, Seiko started becoming a globally recognized brand as it produces over 3 million watches each year, which the company traded to many far places in the world, like the United States of America.

In 1954, the company hit another milestone after creating the Seiko Marvel, which features the brand’s first movement designed and produced in-house. The company launched the Seiko Automatic, Japan’s first automatic wristwatch. In 1960, the brand created its first luxury line named Grand Seiko, which competes with high-end Swiss watches.

The brand continued to prosper, and in 1964, they became suppliers of the Tokyo Olympics, where they provided 1,278 stopwatches. The brand has already produced many quartz wall clocks, but they’ve yet to replicate the model into a wristwatch.

Seiko kept pushing to become the first watch brand to create a quartz wristwatch, which they did in 1969 when they made the Seiko Astron. Their quartz wristwatches changed the watchmaking industry and pushed the brand’s success throughout the 1970s.

The 1980s weren’t easy for Japanese companies, and Seiko was no exception. However, the brand continued to put more effort into perfecting the watchmaking industry. Seiko has become a great company that manufactures watches, printers, and optics though their watches are the brand’s driving force. Over the past year, the brand has become a household name across Europe, North America, and Asia.

Seiko leans more towards the sporting world and is better known for its diving watches. The Seiko sports watches are renowned and acclaimed as the lead sponsors for top athletes like tennis star Novak Djokovic. Seiko’s performance is unprecedented, holding accuracy to within five seconds per month.

Brief History of Citizen Watches

The history of Citizen Watches is shorter and less impressive than that of the Seiko. Its history dates back to 1918, when a Tokyo jewelry seller, Kamekichi Yakamazi, established the Shokosha Watch Brand Institute and started producing pocket watches.

Swiss watchmaker Rodolphe Schmid registered the brand in Switzerland for watches sold in Japan. In 1924, their first commercial model, the Caliber 16, was sold under Citizen. The company continued to expand until the Second World War halted its success. The brand was famous but had little success globally.

However, a new era began for Citizen Watches after the war as a new president, Elichi Yamada, took power. Yamada, an experienced man, quickly discovered that the brand’s future was in the foreign hands of the Swiss.

He created the Citizen Trading Company, which marketed the brand globally. Elichi Yamada also improved the Citizen watches’ technology by producing many outstanding mechanical timepieces, a breakthrough in the Japanese watch industry.

The Japanese brand saw the quartz revolutionary as an opportunity to use the first era of electronic watches to make most of its outstanding models. One of their hottest models then was the Citizen X-8, their first-ever titanium watch. 

From 1975 to 1981, the Citizen Watch brand unveiled the first-class watch each year. Perhaps their best accomplishment yet in their history was introducing Eco-Drive technology. This technology enabled the user to recharge quartz batteries via a solar panel under the watch’s face.

This recharge meant that the battery would retain power when you placed your watch under the sun for some time every day. Today, Citizen is a world-renowned luxury watch brand and owns Bulova, an American watchmaker.

Which is the Better Brand?

Comparing the two Japanese luxury brands is not an easy task because both brands have attained numerous achievements. The watch brands have many similarities, and both brands have produced many exquisite watch models.

We shall compare the two brands regarding technology and movement, recognition, resale value, and other qualities to see which luxury brand is better.

Recognition

The best luxury brands are the most recognized in the world. While some watch brands are known only by watch enthusiasts, some are known by the average person. Between Seiko and Citizen, Seiko is more recognized than Citizen by the year of establishment.

While Seiko started in 1881, Citizen Watch Co was in 1918. By the time the Citizen watch brand started, Seiko had already established itself in the watch industry. 

Technology and Movement

Both companies are prestigious, and they deliver high-quality watches. However, Citizen watches lean more toward quartz watches. It’s hard to find a mechanical watch in Citizen’s brand. Despite being the quartz revolution’s driving force, Seiko still produces some mechanical watches.

When it comes to style, Seiko’s style is more modern. Being the older company, Seiko is still establishing more prestige and reputation by connecting their watches’ style with the past. In contrast, Citizen embraced technology.

A good example is how Citizen embraces eco-drive technology, which focuses on solar-powered watches. Though Seiko has embraced the technology, Citizen solar-powered watches are much stronger than Seiko’s. If you want a stylish mechanical look, go for the Seiko brand.

Highest Resale Value

Some people prefer to buy a luxury watch with high resale value. When comparing this on Seiko vs. Citizen, we have to first look at each company’s sales saturation.

While Seiko has better models than Citizen, the latter still makes more sales than the former, though the difference isn’t huge. With Seiko being more recognized, you’ll likely get more when reselling a Seiko watch than a Citizen watch.

Style and Design

Seiko and Citizen have differences in watch styles. Seiko creates more classic and traditional style watches. For instance, their dress or dive watches will be just that and have no extra features. 

However, this sticking to tradition allowed them to specialize in some specific watches. Some of the top watches come from many decades of designing the same design over and over, making mistakes and rectifying them.

Citizen uses modern technology to build more accurate watches creating market disruption with their timepieces.

 The latter also uses quartz technology, but the brand has added various types of technology to help them innovate more and sell more. If you need a classic timepiece, such as a beater or dress watch, choose Seiko. Check out Citizen’s models if you want to experiment and see what is available in the market.

Watch Crystal

Many Citizen Models have mineral crystals, and their more expensive and rarer watches contain sapphire, which also applies to Seiko. Seiko has its crystal technology known as Hardlex, found on their best brands and whose durability is almost the same as a mineral.

Best Seiko Watches

Here are some of Seiko’s best watches:

Seiko SKX007

This Seiko dive watch uses automatic movement, accurate up to 20 seconds per day. The movement is adjustable to get better accuracy. The lens contains Hardlex crystals, and the watch uses Seiko’s Lumibrite to keep the watch bright in dark places.

Seiko 5 SNK809

This Seiko watch is one of the most affordable watches. For around a hundred dollars, you buy an automatic movement watch that contains a day-date window, a durable stainless steel case, a look, a mineral crystal, and water resistance.

The Seiko 5 SNK809is a beater watch, and you can fit the bill for camping, the sea, and your workplace. This watch is affordable, and most watches contain some special features for that price. The Seiko SNK809 has five features, making it the best option if you’re on a budget.

Best Citizen Watches

Citizen has some of the best watches, including:

Citizen Eco-Drive Nighthawk

The most striking part about this watch is its intricate design. The Pilot’s chronograph boasts an extensive collection of Arabic Arabian markings and numbers and a sliding scale that calculates fuel consumption, air speed, etc. Its best feature is the GMT function, which has a sweeping arc red or white GMT index ranging from 6 to 12.

The pointer hovering over a colored arm tells the GMT and allows the watch to have a double function. The watch also has a stainless steel casing, decorated dial, and resistance to water up to 200 feet.

Citizen Eco-Drive AO9020-84E Dress Watch

Citizen has a well-designed dress watch with a stainless steel casing, a chronograph design that displays date and day, and a black dial.

Most dress watches use leather straps, but the Citizen Eco-Drive AO9020-84E Dress watch comes with a stainless steel bracelet. You can wear the dress watch to the dinner table or ballroom, making it an excellent timepiece for different occasions.

Conclusion

Seiko leans towards the more conventional watch, building mechanical, automatic movement, and quartz watches. Citizen specializes more in quartz movement due to its Eco-Drive technology, which allows for more innovative designs.

For exciting new models, check out what Citizen offers, like a watch that tracks GMT and the fuel consumption for a pilot. If you want a watchmaker who has honed their skill with tried and tested methods, you might want to try out Seiko. They have come from far and their fair share of innovations.

Some of Seiko’s best-known watches gained their fame from the fact that Seiko knew their trade and honed it over the past more than one century.

Look for a watch between the two that fits your way of life and style. The best watch serves your needs, not going with the trend for the sake of trending. If you are a diver, choose a diver’s watch and research before you embark on the watch buying process. May the best watch win!

seiko world time watches

A timepiece can serve many purposes for the person whose wrist it adorns. They, of course, serve a practical function in telling the time or another practical purpose, such as elapsed time for a dive or another time zone. Perhaps the greatest complication that any watch can have is the ability to allow you to be another person. 

Wearing a Rolex Explorer does not inherently make you more adventurous. But, I undoubtedly feel the desire to take the path less traveled when I have mine strapped to the wrist (a far cry from Mt. Everest, but my dog appreciates the new smells). 

Watches allow the wearer to be whoever they want to be. A diver, a pilot, an astronaut, or even a jet-setting businessman are all possible with the right timepiece on the wrist. There are so few socially acceptable times when adults can use their imagination, and I, for one, am not afraid to admit that I love it! 

One complication that has always stood out to me as the next evolution of timepiece LARPing, Live Action Role Playing (you’re a nerd just like me, don’t act like you didn’t know what that stood for!), is the world timer. The ability to see the time everywhere at once is one that I can’t ever imagine needing. That’s what’s great about imagination; we don’t really need to have the answers to pretend.

About the World Time Complication

So, what exactly is a world time complication? In a nutshell, this complication allows you to tell the time in all 24 time zones based on reference cities displayed on the dial. By knowing the reference city of your time zone and other reference points around the world, the wearer will essentially know the time worldwide.

Is it as practical as a standard GMT feature? Probably not, but since when has practicality been the deciding factor in which watch we wear? Back in 1931, Louis Cottier developed the world time function for a wristwatch as we know it today.

While 1931 is more than a couple of years ago, this complication is relatively modern in the grand scheme of watchmaking, especially when considering the tourbillon, another high-end mechanical feat of watchmaking was first seen in 1801, a mere 130 years prior. 

The world time complication was originally seen on only the most luxurious watches produced by brands such as Patek Phillippe, the brand perhaps most synonymous with the complication. However, thanks to advancements in movement technology, this complication is no longer reserved for only those in the upper crust of society.

What is the Purpose of the World Time Watch?

When there are complications that provide similar functionality to the world time watch, why would someone choose the world time over these other simpler options? There are two very different but equally valid reasons to pick up a world time complication. 

First, if you frequently communicate with people in several time zones, no complication will allow you to track more than 3 time zones simultaneously.

This is definitely a minority of the population. But, if you have a family that has dispersed internationally or if you conduct international business, I could see this feature being very practical for your everyday life. Even a traveler-style GMT with a rotational timing bezel will struggle to keep up with this level of demand.

I suspect that the second reason is one that applies to 90% of the people considering one of these timepieces. The ability to tell time around the world is the ultimate horological flex! Watch enthusiasts are obsessed with telling the time, and no watch can tell you the time in as many places at a glance as a world timer. Whether it’s a fun party trick or our desire to pretend we are a true world traveler, the world timer complication has an undeniable cool factor.

The Best Seiko World Time Watches

As much as I love the world time feature, it has always seemed out of reach for someone with a far looser belt than me. As mentioned earlier, the enhancements in movement technology have brought this complication down to accessibility for the other 99% of watch collectors.

Perhaps the last brand you would associate with the world time complication is the one that I would suggest you look at if you’re interested in dipping your toe in the complication. 

Enthusiast-favorite Seiko has been innovating in this space and quietly producing model after model that continues to bring the world time to the masses. Let’s take a look at some of the best examples from Seiko that feature a world time complication.

1. Seiko Astron SSH003 

Seiko Astron SSH003 

Seiko is a brand known for pushing the limits of watchmaking. Whether it was their near Swiss watch crippling quartz movement of the late 1960s or the modern Spring Drive movement delivering the very best of quartz and mechanical movement technologies, Seiko has always been a pioneer. 

Knowing this history, the innovative Seiko Astron line should come as no surprise. This line of watches features a quartz-powered movement that is regulated by a GPS signal. This series of watches delivers incredible internal technology with the beautiful finishing we have come to expect from Seiko’s premium line of watches.   

The Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH003, is a 42.9mm watch made of titanium. The watch features a sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel. The 50.7mm lug-to-lug and 12mm case thickness help this larger cased watch fit slightly smaller on the wrist. The GPS Solar 5X53 movement allows this watch to feature a world time function and a perpetual calendar allowing the date to be accurate until the year 2100 (no more date changes for you!). 

The watch receives power from the sun and can remain charged for up to 6 months on a full charge. If you are looking for a watch that is truly set and forget, few watches can compete with this Seiko. Coming in at about $2350, this Seiko Astron watch provides a user experience few brands can match at any price.

2. Seiko SSC507

Seiko SSC507

If innovative technology is not the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Seiko, I am willing to bet that the name Seiko conjures up an idea of affordability. Seiko has been the market leader in many segments when it comes to providing value for money, and the word time function is no different.

The Seiko Prospex, Ref. SSC507 is a 42mm stainless steel watch featuring a world time and chronograph function. This watch is accented by many of the finishing details you expect to see on watches several times the price, such as 100M of water resistance and sapphire crystal. 

This Prospex model is powered by the V195 solar quartz movement, further aiding in the everyday usability of this watch. If you were intrigued by the Seiko Astron mentioned earlier, but your budget can only stretch to roughly $475 (many discounts to be had on this one!), you’d be hard-pressed to beat this model. You may have to set the date a couple of times a year, but with the money you are saving, I think you’ll manage!

3. Seiko Coutura SSG009

Seiko Coutura SSG009

Seiko’s ability to have a watch for every type of customer is unmatched in the watch world. Despite having two ends of the quartz spectrum already covered on this list, they have a different product line for those who might be after something between these two options.

Although it can be seen as too many options, I’d argue that when it comes to watches, you can never have too many options. The Seiko Coutura, Ref. SSG009, features a 44.5mm stainless steel case and integrated bracelet giving this watch more of a wrist presence than the others on this list thus far.

The watch features a chronograph function in addition to its world time complication. These features are made possible by the solar quartz caliber 8B92. Whereas the Astron line is controlled by GPS signal, these movements are regulated by radio control.

These signals are less standardized than the GPS of the Astron but provide very similar functionality. Coming in at a price of $595, this Seiko Coutura provides great functionality at a very approachable price.

4. Seiko Astron SSH121

Seiko Astron SSH121

When looking at the Astron line from Seiko, I am always impressed by their willingness to take a chance on design. Some of the products have futuristic designs while others play with colors that on paper don’t do it for me, but in person, absolutely pop! The Seiko Astron, ref. SSH121, is a great example of both of these attributes. 

The 43.1mm titanium case and integrated bracelet give off the appearance of a PVD coating thanks to the black “super hard coating” applied to the titanium. The vivid blue dial is not what I would have chosen if I was a designer, but after seeing how the whole package comes together, it’s clear that I should keep my opinions to myself. 

The watch is powered by the 5X33 movement providing solar charging, GPS regulation, and a perpetual calendar in addition to the world time function qualifying this watch for our list. Coming in at a price of $2400, this Astron represents tremendous value for someone who wants a futuristic watch but can’t get behind the smart watch movement.

5. Seiko SSC489

Seiko SSC489

Another entry from the affordable Prospex line of watches is the Seiko Prospex, Ref. SSC489. This watch features a more substantial 44.5mm stainless steel case and is powered by the same V195 movement as was seen in the previous Prospex model on this list.

Because of this, you will find the same solar quartz technology powering a chronograph and world time function in addition to standard timekeeping. This watch has been paired with a blue silicone strap that compliments the functionality, as well as it does the blue dial.

The pops of red on the crown stem (much like a Tudor Black Bay) and hour hand help to give this dial a pop of color. Although these are no longer for sale at the $595 MSRP, they are still readily available through other gray market providers.

6. Seiko Prospex World Time SSG015

Seiko Prospex World Time SSG015

If you like the Prospex style of watches but are looking for something a little sleeker, the Seiko Prospex, Ref, SSG015, may be an option to consider. Coming in at a familiar size of 44.5mm, this stainless steel watch looks different from the others on this list. That is thanks to the black ion-plated stainless steel. 

The watch has a darker appearance than titanium but is not quite as dark as DLC or a PVD coating. The dark color, in combination with the aviation-inspired high-contrast black dial with white script, helps to give this watch a more traditional look than some of the others we’ve seen. 

The watch is powered by the Seiko 8B92 movement and features a world time function, chronograph, and radio-controlled adjustment. Coming in at a price of $595, this is another watch from Seiko that punches well above its weight. 

7. Seiko Astron SSH119

Seiko Astron SSH119

If you are in the market for a high-end GPS-controlled watch with a futuristic design to match, the Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH119, may be the watch for you. This Seiko Astron shares the same 5X33 movement as the one previously mentioned and matches the watch in functionality with GPS radio control, world time capability, and a perpetual calendar complication.

What this watch does differently, however, is present these specs in a much more modern execution. This watch features an integrated bracelet with sharp angles and a 43mm case diameter forged in a titanium case with a super hard scratch-resistant coating.

The textured charcoal dial with midnight blue subdials offers a modern aesthetic that matches the case design. If you’re looking for a premium modern world time watch from Seiko, The Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH119, for $2200, is a great option to consider.

8. Seiko Age of Discovery SPL062

Seiko Age of Discovery SPL062

Taking a starkly different direction from the futuristic angles of the Seiko Astron, Ref. SSH119, is the budget-friendly Limited Edition Seiko Age of Discovery, Ref. SPL062, for around $450. This watch is the antithesis of the Astron in both cost and design. 

The watch features a more modest 40mm case dimension housed in an antique-finish bronze case. This finish is not one that you often find, which helps this timepiece stand out from the crowd. The sunburst brown dial and gold Roman numerals help to provide a cohesive design to match the unique case finish.  

Powering this model is the caliber 5T82 quartz movement which features a world time complication as well as an alarm. If you want a watch that stands out from the crowd but maintains a traditional design language, the Seiko SPL062 is hard to beat.

9. Seiko GMT World Time 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SPL055

Seiko GMT World Time 30th Anniversary Limited Edition SPL055

If you like the look of the Seiko Age of Discovery but can’t quite get behind the look of the antique bronze finish, the Seiko Limited Edition SPL055 could be exactly what you’re looking for. Functionally, this watch is identical to the previously mentioned Seiko Age of Discovery while being powered by the same 5T82 caliber. 

The case dimensions even remain consistent with this timepiece, but the antique bronze case and sunburst brown dial are exchanged for a more neutral stainless steel case and white dial. The gold accents and Roman numerals remain and look equally complimentary with this colorway. This watch easily passes for a watch that costs many multiples of the $375 MSRP, making this a great value for someone on a tighter budget.

10. Seiko Selection SBTM329

Seiko Selection SBTM329

While looking through this list I am sure you have noticed the trend of sub-dials. While many prefer this look, some appreciate the aesthetics of a clean dial. That’s where the Seiko Selection, Ref. SBTM329, comes to save the day. The 39.5mm case with the matching bracelet is a size not often seen on Seiko watches in titanium. 

Along with the 9.5mm case thickness and 100m of water resistance, you may have one of the best options for an everyday piece from Seiko at any price point. The solar-powered caliber 7B75 provides radio control, World time functionality, and a perpetual calendar to boot.

However, the real showstopper with this watch has to be the clean black dial with numeral indices. If you missed the cities along the rehaut, you could easily confuse this watch as a time-only watch. 

Prices and availability are a little hit or miss on this model, which is currently available only in Japan. But you can expect to pay $350-$450, which makes this watch an absolute bargain for everything it can do.

11. Seiko Sportura SSF005

 Seiko Sportura SSF005

If you really like the idea of a GPS-controlled quartz movement but can’t quite stretch to the $2k+ of the Astron series, the Seiko Sportura, Ref. SSF005, may be just what you’re looking for. Coming in at a price of $1250 (with many discounts available on the gray market), this watch offers a lot of the functionality you would expect from a watch in the Astron line costing twice that. 

Powered by the 8X22 caliber, this watch features GPS control, World time functionality, and a perpetual calendar. The watch is housed in a large 45.2mm black PVD-coated stainless steel case with a matching bracelet, making this option better suited for larger wrists.

This timepiece features a black dial with simple stick indices that add to the stealth appearance of the black PVD-coated case. If your budget can’t quite get you to a Seiko Astron, this Sportura offers the same functionality in a beautiful, albeit slightly less refined, case.

12. Seiko Astron SSE159

Seiko Astron SSE159

If you loved the look of that last watch but can stretch your budget slightly for a more refined execution, the Seiko Astron SSE159, for roughly $1650, is a great option to consider. This watch shares the 45.2mm case dimension with a matching bracelet but has gone with a standard stainless steel appearance. 

The dial layout is very similar, but the simple black dial from the Sportura has been swapped for a magnificent blue dial with vertical stripes. This watch is also powered by the 8X22 movement providing the same functionality and versatility. If you are looking for a beautifully finished GPS-controlled quartz movement with a stunning blue dial, this is a great option to consider.

13. Seiko Criteria World Timer SPL045

Seiko Criteria World Timer SPL045

Sometimes a watch is large for a purpose, such as a pilot watch or a diver, and other times a watch is just big to make a statement. The Seiko SPL045 is a 46mm black PVD-coated stainless steel watch that certainly makes a statement. Make no mistake, the sub-dials are certainly easier to read, but given the larger crown guard system with symmetrical “ear”, much like a Patek Phillipe Nautilus, this timepiece is meant to grab attention. 

The Neon green accents on the dial play nice with the black dial and black PVD case, giving this timepiece a more futuristic look. Powered by the 5T82 caliber movement, this watch provides a world time complication in addition to an alarm function. If you are looking for a large world timer at a budget-friendly price of $595, this Seiko SPL045 should definitely be on your radar.

14. Seiko World Time Tokyo Olympics 1964 (ref. 6217-7000)

Seiko World Time Tokyo Olympics 1964 (ref. 6217-7000)

Although there is no doubt that Seiko has the ability to produce some unbelievable world time watches today, I truly believe that their best examples are from their historical archives. The Seiko 6217-7000 from the Tokyo Olympics in 1964 is a great example of vintage Seiko at its best.

The watch features a timeless 37.5mm stainless steel case with a 4 O’clock crown. There are 2 color variations available on this model, but the silver dial with the black and blue non-rotatable internal 24-hour bezel is my favorite of the bunch. 

The outside chapter ring with cities from around the world is highlighted in vivid red, which helps to give this dial a very unique look. The 6217A caliber is the first automatic caliber to grace this list but will not be the last. Coming in at a price of roughly $1250-$1500, this is one of the best affordable vintage world timer watches on the market today from any brand.

15. Seiko World Time Asian Games 1966 (ref. 6217-7010)

Another offering from the Seiko historical archive is the Seiko 6217-7010 from the Asian Games in 1966. This watch represents a minor refinement over the previously mentioned 6217-7000. The case back has been upgraded from a snap back to a screw-down, while the hands gained a coat of luminous material to aid in low-light visibility. 

Other than that, Seiko did exactly what they should have done; not much. The silver and charcoal dial options remain, while my favorite is still the latter. If you are looking for a vintage watch that can better withstand the requirements of a more active lifestyle, the Seiko 6217-7010 can provide exactly what you need for a slight premium of roughly $1500-$2000.

Conclusion  

So, there you have it, 15 of the best Seiko world time watches! Many of these models tend to fly under the radar to most enthusiasts but are great examples of the power of Seiko. Whether it’s driving innovation with the popularization of the quartz movement in the early 1970s or unlocking the potential of this innovation with the refinements of GPS and solar technologies, Seiko is a brand that continuously raises the bar. 

If we’re lucky enough to strap one of these Seiko world time watches on our wrist, rather than idolizing the world traveler who may need to wear one, perhaps we should aim to channel the innovative spirit of Seiko. If we are able to tap into this, even just a little bit, I am sure we will be better off for it!

Happy Watch Hunting!

Best Seiko Sumo Watches

Seiko has a rich history in the development and manufacturing of world-class diver watches that are hugely popular and highly sought after by professionals and amateurs alike. To understand Sumo’s place in the pantheon of Seiko diver watches, I will provide a brief history and evolution of the diver watch.

1965- Seiko produces the very first Japanese self-winding diving watch that is water resistant to 150meters.

1968-Release of the 300-meter diver with a high beat self-winding automatic movement operating at 10 vibrations per second. By this time, Seiko has acquired twenty patents for the exterior of the diver watch alone.

1975– With the impetus of a letter that Seiko received from a professional diver, Seiko assembles a team to address the requests made in the letter. The diver explained that at depths greater than 300 meters, when using a diving capsule and saturation diving techniques, most watches sustained some degree of damage. This led to the creation of a diver watch made with a titanium case and water resistant to 600 meters.

1978– World’s first saturation diver watch with a quartz movement and water resistance to 600 meters.

1982- World’s first hybrid movement diver watch with alarm and chronograph functions and with a bilingual display. Water resistance of 150 meters.

1985– Improvement of the previous diver watch released in 1982, now water resistant to 200 meters.

1986– Development of a diver watch that is water resistant to 1000 meters. This is achieved through the use of a titanium case and a ceramic outside shell.

1990- The world’s first computerized diver watch is named the “Scuba Master.” This watch was equipped with a water and depth sensor and displayed both diving time and depth.

1992– Introduction of the world’s first kinetic diver watch. Power is derived by an automatic generating quartz movement. 200-meter water resistant.

1995– The creation of three distinct watches that are released during the year.

  • The “Diver Scuba” 200 meters. This timepiece calculates the depth of water and dive time. It also displays log data memory and air pressure.
  • 200-meter water resistant 24-hour hand kinetic “Scuba Master” with a titanium case and its battery does not need to be replaced.
  • The world’s first “Scuba Master” with an automatic calculating analog depth gauge and water resistance to 200 meters.

2000– Introduced a diving computer watch that displays the dive profile by recording the current depth of the dive and can also be used for nitrox diving.

2005– World’s first spring drive diver watch featuring a titanium case, 600-meter water resistance, and accurate to one second per day.

2007– The first Prospex Sumo watches are introduced.

The Seiko Sumo

The Seiko Sumo watch models are part of the Prospex collection of divers and sports watches. The Prospex name is a combination of the words professional and specifications and reflects the quality and design that are the earmark of the entire collection. These watches are inspired and manufactured in response to the requirements and desires of diving professionals worldwide.

They are surprisingly affordable given their quality and therefore are widely popular with both the diving community and those that enjoy larger case sporty timepieces. The Sumo collection is positioned as the middle tier of Seiko’s diver watch offerings, as reflected in its price.

The Sumo timepieces, as mentioned, are a subset of the Prospex divers watches and earned their nickname due to certain details reflected in the watch’s design. Some believe the Sumo name was given to the models because of the shape of the marker at the twelve o’clock position. The marker resembles an “oicho” which is the top knot worn by a sumo wrestler.

Others believe that the bezel reflects the shape of the “dohyo” which is the ring in which sumo wrestlers hold their bouts. Whatever the reason, the Sumo is one of the most popular and sought-after diver models in the Seiko collection.

The Sumo was first introduced in 2007 and quickly became popular for divers and sportsmen alike. The first three models were the SBDC001 in black, the SPDC003 in blue (also nicknamed “Blumo,” and the SBDC005 with an orange dial.

These initial models have been outfitted with an in-house manufactured 6R15 caliber mechanical automatic movement and as all Sumos water resistant to 200m. An additional earmark of a Sumo watch, and what makes it recognizable, is that the crown is at the four o’clock position.

The Sumo collection is also popular for its impeccable finishes and smooth lines which are uncommon for an otherwise large sports watch. The design team hit a home run in the marriage of the bracelet to the case and also the design of the case itself. The latest bracelet resembles the “oyster” style with a three-link pattern and again nicely finished lines. The watch has a very polished feel as you run your fingers over both the case and the bracelet.

Details of the latest generation of Sumo watches include the following:

  1. A 45 mm. Case with a measurement of 53 mm. From lug to lug.
  2. Stainless steel case (and bracelet) with a special hard coating to increase durability and appearance. 
  3. Unidirectional ceramic bezel allowing for 120 clicks per hour.
  4. Inhouse-produced 6R35 caliber mechanical automatic movement vibrating at 21,600 A/h and incorporating twenty-four jewels.
  5. Power reserve of 70 hours.
  6. Hacking function (Wearer can stop the second hand while adjusting the time, allowing for accuracy down to seconds}.
  7. Dial featuring large rhomboid markers and hands treated in lumibrite (luminous pigment).
  8. Sapphire crystal.
  9. 200-meter water resistance.
  10. Screw down stainless steel crown located at the four o’clock position.
  11. Three-year international warranty.

15 of the best Sumo Watches

1. SBJ101 The original classic with a black bezel and dial.

Seiko SBJ101

Retail $850.00

2. SBJ103 The original classic with a green dial and bezel.

Seiko SBJ103

Retail $850.00

3. SPB240 Seiko Boutique Exclusive Model

Seiko SPB240

Copper brown dial with a copper brown accented black bezel (Distinctly beautiful and unique color design).

Retail $1200.00

4. SPB125 Black Ninja Limited (7000 pieces)

Seiko SPB125

Features a black PVD case with a black dial and a combination of orange and lumibrite minutes hand. The markers have traces of orange outlining the lumibrite-treated markers and nicely accenting the minute hand.

Retail $850.00

5. SPB297 Modern Reinterpretation Save the Ocean (Deep blue colored dial)

Seiko SPB297

Retail $1250.00

6. SPB255 Black Series Limited Edition 1968 Mechanical Divers Modern Reinterpretation (5500 pieces)

Seiko SPB255

Retail $1200.00

7. SPB175 Sumo USA Special Edition Ice Diver Gray

Seiko SPB175

Retail $900.00

8. SPB177 Sumo USA Special Edition Ice Diver Blue

Retail $900.00

9. SPB179 Sumo USA Special Edition Ice Diver Green

Retail $900.00

10. SPB207 Limited Edition Green Sumo Automatic

Seiko SPB207

Retail $1350.00

11. SPB194 Sumo Zimbe- Limited edition of 1500 pieces.

Seiko Sumo SPB194

12. SPB187 Reinterpretation Diver

Seiko SPB187

Retail $1200.00

13. SPB321 The Latest generation Sumo

Seiko SPB321

Retail $1200.00

14. SPB323 The Latest generation Sumo

Seiko SPB323

Retail $1200.00

15. SPB325 The latest generation Sumo Padi Line

Seiko SPB325

Features a black global texture dial and a black and light blue bezel. Outfitted with a blue rubber strap.

Retail $1050.00

Note: All prices listed are at suggested retail as set by Seiko watch corporation.

Seiko Sumo Chronograph

The Seiko Sumo Chronograph is a timepiece that celebrates the 140-year-plus existence of the Seiko watch corporation and all of its accomplishments in the area of timekeeping and time measuring. Four distinct events that contributed to the evolution of the present-day chronograph are the following:

  1. As the recognized official timekeeper of the 1964 Olympic Games, Seiko unveils the first Japanese watch that incorporates a stopwatch function.
  2. Seiko introduces the first automatic chronograph in 1969 that features a vertical clutch and column wheel.
  3. 1969 also sees Seiko manufacture the world’s first quartz watch movement which is a pivotal moment for the entire watchmaking industry and a revolutionary game-changer.
  4. With the advent of the quartz movement, sets the stage for the first solar-powered watch released in 1977 and the foundation for the present-day Sumo Chronograph.

The two models that are referred to as Sumo Chronographs, the SSC757 and SSC807 aren’t classic Sumo collection models but have been referred to as part of the collection due to the similar twelve o’clock marker as the regular Sumo models. The Sumo timepieces have manual automatic movements whereas these chronograph models are powered by the in-house V192 solar quartz movement produced exclusively by Seiko.

The Sumo Chronograph model SSC757

Details of the SSC757:

  • Stainless Steel case 44.5 mm. wide and 13.7 mm. thick.
  • Stainless steel screw-down crown, pushers, case back with a unidirectional bezel. Pushers are at the two o’clock and the four o’clock positions.
  • Sapphire crystal.
  • V192 caliber Seiko solar quartz movement (Remains charged for at least six months if charged by a direct light source).
  • Numberless dial with three subdials, one also showing the power reserve capacity of the charged movement. Each subdial has an independent motor and can be adjusted independently. Timing to 60 minutes in ⅕ second increments.
  • Numberless dial with Lumibrite hands, markers, bezel markings, and date display.
  • Date display between the four and five o’clock markers.
  • Water resistant to 200 meters.

The suggested retail price is $675.00

Details of the SSC807

The SSC807 is a 140th-anniversary limited edition watch that was introduced in March of 2021. This edition has all the components of the SSC757 but differs in the following:

  • Limited production of 4000 pieces.
  • Has a green dial
  • Comes with an additional silicone strap.

The Suggested retail price is $780.00

Seiko Prospex Sumo Green

This particular watch was created to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Seiko’s collection of divers watches and is available exclusively in Thailand. The Thai market is very important and strategic to Japanese manufacturing from both an expansionary aspect and in their worldwide marketing plans.

Every year some models are introduced only to the Thai community and make the country a treasure trove for watch collectors. The Sumo Green is one of these commemorative watches and is limited to 820 pieces. 

The watch has all of the characteristics and components of that generation of Sumo watches but has some unique aesthetic embellishments. At the heart of this timepiece is the Seiko in-house-produced 6R15 caliber automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve.

The uniqueness of the anniversary model is found in the crafting of the dial. The green color lies upon a wave pattern that creates a three-dimensional effect. The green fades into a smoky gray towards the edges of the dial where it meets the bezel. There are also gold accents on the bezel and the crown and the sapphire crystal features a cyclops window magnifying the date. 50th is also reflected in gold below the hand pinion.

Seiko Sumo vs. Samurai

The Seiko King Samurai was originally manufactured from 2004-2008 and reintroduced in 2017. The watch got its nickname “King Samurai” because the hours and seconds hands supposedly resembled a Samurai sword.

The new model SRPE35K1 is outfitted with an in-house 4R35 caliber automatic movement with 23 jewels. The movement operates at 21,600 A/h and has a power reserve of 41 hours. The Stainless steel case is 44mm. and is completed with a sapphire crystal with a cyclops window over the date ceramic bezel, and a stainless steel bracelet. The watch is also water resistant to 200m.

In comparing the King Samurai with the similar Sumo model, I have chosen the SPD101. The features of the Sumo are listed in the Sumo description in this article. Where the two depart is in appearance and the feel on the wearer’s wrist. Though the Sumo is the larger of the two watches, the King Samurai can feel larger. 

The case and bracelet of the King Samurai are also different in that they are not as smoothly finished as the Sumo diver. The case and bracelet are blockier and edgier. The Sumo is smoother in appearance and feels very balanced on the wrist. The King Samurai also differs in the finish below the ceramic bezel. Instead of vertical grooves, it has a diamond etched surface as well as a milled stainless steel crown.

The crown is also at the three o’clock position as opposed to the four o’clock position on the Sumo watch. The one feature that does stand out on the King Samurai is the block-styled dial. It is attractive and really sets the watch apart in side-by-side comparisons.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Seiko Sumo made in Japan?

The Seiko collection is manufactured and assembled in Japan. The watch may contain components manufactured in other Asian countries, but the watch is ultimately a product of Japan.

What is a Sumo watch?

As mentioned earlier in this article, Sumos became a nickname for the line of Prospex diver watches that had a particularly shaped twelve o’clock hour marker that resembled the top knot worn by a sumo wrestler. Technically the name refers to a subset of the Prospex collection of competitively priced high-quality diving timepieces.

These watches are manufactured to the specific requirements of professional divers using superior materials and the latest technology. They are also painstakingly fitted and finished and sit comfortably on the wearer’s wrist for their size and mass.

Why is Seiko Sumo popular?

The Seiko Sumo is popular for both its quality and reasonable price. There are many professional divers watches on the market that sells for much higher prices due to their brand names but offers similar features. There is a tremendous amount of value offered in the Sumo models.

Additionally, the Sumo offerings are quite diverse and there is a style for almost every taste. Attractive dial colors and color combinations contribute to their allure amongst sports enthusiasts.

What is Lumibrite?

Lumibrite is a luminous paint that absorbs light energy from either the sun or another light source, and stores it to be used and seen in the dark. The luminous properties do degrade over time.

What does “Padi” represent on the various Seiko “Padi” models?

Padi stands for the Professional Association of Diving Instructors. This is the world’s leading scuba diving training organization. Part of their mission is to bring unity to divers around the world who share a passion for the ocean. The Seiko “Padi” models are an excellent choice for divers who desire that added sense of certification to their diving instruments.

What differentiates a Seiko Sumo Ice Diver?

The Ice Diver gets its name from the colors that are reflected off of a glacier. The series sports a beautiful block pattern dial in either gray, green, or ice blue.

Are there Sumo Limited Editions?

The answer to this question is a definite yes. If you refer back to the list of Sumo models earlier in this article you will see that there are four limited edition models featured. There are more and also several special edition models that are not limited in their production numbers.

Seiko is also renowned for releasing exclusive editions for particular markets that are not available worldwide. The Prospex Sumo Green mentioned in this article is an example of such an offering. These watches tend to retain and even increase in value due to their exclusivity and limited availability.

Is a Seiko Sumo a worthwhile purchase?

When compared to all of the professional grade diver watches in the marketplace, the Sumo is both an affordable watch and one whose purchase reflects great value.

What is the warranty on a Seiko Sumo?

The Seiko Sumo as well as most of the Seiko line are warranted for three years.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I hope I have provided ample information to encourage your interest in either purchasing your first Seiko Sumo diver watch or assistance in choosing your next Sumo for your collection. This article should encourage anyone looking to purchase a professional quality diver watch for either professional diving needs or merely for the weekend sportsman or diver. 

The diversity in dial colors and variety of limited editions offer a timepiece for almost every taste. The affordable pricing and superior construction of the Sumo collection should make these watches a consideration for anyone who loves the sea.

Despite the large case measurement, the Sumo sits surprisingly comfortably on even smaller wrists that otherwise would not carry a larger watch well. This is a testimony to the smooth finishes and seamless incorporation of all the materials used in the construction of the timepiece as well as the union of the case and bracelet.

140 years of watchmaking knowledge and success are evident in the Sumo models as well as over 50 years of diver watch expertise. In the history of the Seiko diver watch, there is little that the company has not addressed to answer the requests of the diving community. Thus the “Prospex” Professional specifications reputation.

Any diver can wear a Sumo with confidence and know they have a watch that is water resistant to 200 meters, is easily readable in the darkness of the ocean depth, and has a unidirectional bezel that is an essential tool for diving.

Though there are fifteen diverse styles of Sumo watches listed in this article, there are many more models to choose from. If you are looking for a diver watch or just an attractive sports watch that is durable and an eyecatcher, I suggest you visit a Seiko dealer and try on a Sumo for yourself.

Nothing speaks louder than experiencing the feel, quality, and look of these watches on your own wrist. I will confidently say that you will neither be disappointed nor regret the purchase of your new Sumo watch.

To Top